jacking FORD FIESTA 1989 Service Workshop Manual

Front wheel toe setting -
checking and adjustment
2Due to the special measuring equipment
necessary to accurately check the wheel
alignment, and the skill required to use it
properly, checking and adjustment is best left
to a Ford dealer or similar expert. Note that
most tyre-fitting shops now possess
sophisticated checking equipment. The
following is provided as a guide, should the
owner decide to carry out a DIY check.
3 The front wheel toe setting is checked by
measuring the distance between the front and
rear inside edges of the roadwheel rims.
Proprietary toe measurement gauges are
available from motor accessory shops.
Adjustment is made by screwing the track
rods in or out of their track rod end balljoints,
to alter the effective length of the track rod
assemblies.
4 For accurate checking, the vehicle must
be at the kerb weight, ie unladen and with a
full tank of fuel.
5 Before starting work, check the tyre
pressures and tread wear, the condition of the
hub bearings, the steering wheel free play,
and the condition of the front suspension
components (see Chapter 1). Correct any
faults found.
6 Park the vehicle on level ground, check that
the front roadwheels are in the straight-ahead
position, then rock the rear and front ends to settle the suspension. Release the handbrake,
and roll the vehicle backwards 1 metre, then
forwards again, to relieve any stresses in the
steering and suspension components.
7
Measure the distance between the front
edges of the wheel rims and the rear edges of
the rims. Subtract the smallest measurement
from the largest, and check that the result is
within the specified range.
8 If adjustment is necessary, apply the
handbrake, then jack up the front of the
vehicle and support it securely on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ). Turn the
steering wheel onto full-left lock, and record
the number of exposed threads on the right-
hand track rod. Now turn the steering onto
full-right lock, and record the number of
threads on the left-hand side. If there are the
same number of threads visible on both sides,
then subsequent adjustment should be made
equally on both sides. If there are more
threads visible on one side than the other, it
will be necessary to compensate for this
during adjustment. Note:It is most important
that after adjustment, the same number of
threads are visible on each track rod.
9 First clean the track rod end; if they are
corroded, apply penetrating fluid before
starting adjustment. Release the rubber gaiter
outboard clips (where necessary), and peel
back the gaiter; apply a smear of grease to
the inside of the gaiter, so that both are free, and will not be twisted or strained as their
respective track rods are rotated.
10
Use a straight-edge and a scriber or
similar to mark the relationship of each track
rod to its track rod end balljoint, then, holding
each track rod in turn, unscrew its locknut
fully.
11 Alter the length of the track rods, bearing
in mind the note made in paragraph 8. Screw
them into or out of the track rod end balljoints,
rotating the track rods using a self-grip
wrench. Shortening the track rods (screwing
them into their track rod end balljoints) will
reduce toe-in/increase toe-out.
12 When the setting is correct, hold the track
rods and securely tighten the track rod end
balljoint locknuts. Count the exposed threads
to check the length of both track rods. If they
are not the same, then the adjustment has not
been made equally, and problems will be
encountered with tyre scrubbing in turns;
also, the steering wheel spokes will no longer
be horizontal when the wheels are in the
straight-ahead position.
13 If the track rod lengths are the same, lower
the vehicle to the ground and re-check the
toe setting; re-adjust if necessary. When the
setting is correct, securely tighten the track rod
end balljoint locknuts. Ensure that the rubber
gaiters are seated correctly, and are not
twisted or strained, and secure them in position
with new retaining clips (where necessary).
10•18 Suspension and steering
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Door belt weatherseal moulding
Removal
12Remove the exterior mirror, as described
in Section 18 then, using a screwdriver,
carefully prise up the moulding and remove it
(see illustration) . Do not bend or kink the
moulding, as this will permanently deform it.
Refitting
13 To refit, align the moulding to its rearward
location (latch end of the door), then carefully
tap it into position by hand.
14 Refit the mirror as described in Sec-
tion 18.
11 Door aperture weatherstrip -
removal and refitting
1
Removal
1 To remove, pull the weatherstrip off the
door aperture flange, starting with one end of
the joint and working around to the other end.
Refitting
2 To refit, roughly align the weatherstrip joint
so that it lies in the centre of the bottom (sill
panel) flange.
3 Loop the weatherstrip into the corners of
the door aperture (see illustration).
4 With all the corners roughly in position,
work around the aperture from one end of the
weatherstrip, pressing the seal fully home. Ensure that it follows the contours of the
corners without wrinkling, and that it sits over
any interior trim edgings.
5
Seal the weatherstrip joint with a little
caulking compound applied to the body
flange, to prevent water entering by capillary
action.
6 Check that the door closes properly,
without excessive effort being required. If the
door requires excessive effort to close,
the door striker plate may be adjusted as
necessary.
12 Sill extension moulding -
removal and refitting
2
Removal
1 Open the door and prise out the four
retaining studs from the upper surface of the
moulding.
2 From underneath, drill out the five securing
rivets then remove the moulding from the
vehicle.
Refitting
3 To refit, first align the moulding to its
location, centring it between the two
wheelarch mouldings, then refit the four
retaining studs to secure.
4 Insert the rivets to secure the moulding
from underneath.
13 Wheelarch liners -
removal and refitting
1
Removal
1 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and vehicle support” ). Remove
the relevant front roadwheel.
2 Release the fasteners securing the
wheelarch liner in position (see illustration),
then remove the liner from the vehicle,
manoeuvring it to clear obstructions as
necessary.
Refitting
3 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure, tightening the roadwheel nuts to
the specified torque (see Chapter 10).
14 Wheelarch mouldings -
removal and refitting
2
Front
Removal
1 Remove the wheelarch liner, as described
in Section 13.
2 From underneath the wheelarch, remove
the four fixing nuts securing the upper part of
the moulding.
3 Remove the plastic stud from the lower
edge of the wheelarch flange.
4 Remove the forward jacking position cover
from the sill extension moulding, by pulling
the lower section of the cover, then using a
suitably-sized drill, remove the rivet
securing the rear edge of the wheelarch
moulding.
5 Carefully detach the wheelarch moulding
from the vehicle, sliding its rear out from
under the sill extension moulding.
Refitting
6 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure, adjusting alignment as necessary
before riveting the rear of the moulding.
Rear
Removal
7 Remove the sill extension moulding, as
described in Section 12.
8 Drill out the rivet securing the forward end
of the wheelarch moulding (see illustration).
9 Remove the plastic stud from the lower
edge of the wheelarch flange.
10 From underneath the wheelarch, remove
the four fixing nuts securing the upper part of
the moulding.
11 Carefully pull the wheelarch moulding
away from the body, disengage it from the
clamp, and remove.
11•6 Bodywork and fittings
14.8 Rear wheelarch moulding fixings (clamp cutaway arrowed)13.2 Front wheelarch liner fixings
A Locating lug at top of wheelarch11.3 Loop the weatherstrip into the door aperture
10.12 Removing a door belt weathersealmoulding
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windows (early models) and the tailgate
remote release mechanism, where fitted.
19Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
20 To remove a switch, carefully prise it from
its location using a thin flat-bladed
screwdriver, then disconnect the multi-plug
(see illustrations) .
21 To refit, connect the multi-plug then push
home to secure.
Heater fan motor control switch
22 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
23 Pull the heater fan motor control knob off,
then move the air distribution and
temperature controls fully to the right. Unclip
and remove the heater slide facia towards the
left-hand side of the vehicle, removing the
slide control knobs only as necessary, and
disconnecting its bulbholder (bayonet type) as
it is withdrawn (see illustration) .
24 Squeeze the two release tabs together on
the heater fan motor control switch, and
remove it, disconnecting its multi-plug as it is
withdrawn.
25 Refit by reversing the removal procedure.
Brake stop-light switch
26The brake stop-light switch is attached to
the brake pedal mounting bracket.
27 Detach the wiring multi-plug from the
switch, then twist the switch through a quarter
of a turn (90º) anticlockwise and withdraw it
from the bracket. 28
Insert the switch into its retainer, press it
lightly against the brake pedal until all free
play is just taken up, then turn the switch
clockwise to secure. Reconnect the switch
wiring connector and the battery.
Handbrake warning light
switch
29 Push the carpet mounding down as
necessary to gain access to the switch,
located on the handbrake lever.
30 Remove the cover, then disconnect the
warning light switch wiring multi-plug (see
illustration) . Undo the two screws securing
the switch to the handbrake lever assembly
and remove the switch.
31 Refit by reversing the removal procedure.
Low brake fluid level warning
light switch
32This is incorporated into the brake fluid
reservoir cap, and senses fluid level in the
reservoir. It cannot be renewed separately
from the cap.
33 To remove, disconnect the warning
indicator loom multi-plug and unscrew the
reservoir cap.
34 Refit by reversing the removal procedure.
Courtesy light switches
35Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
36 With the door open, undo the retaining
screw and withdraw the switch from the door
pillar. Pull out the wiring slightly, and tie a piece of string to it, so that it can be retrieved
if it drops down into the door pillar.
37
Disconnect the wiring from the switch.
38 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Reversing light switch
39Refer to Chapter 7A, Section 6.
Starter inhibitor switch
(automatic transmission)
40Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
41 The starter inhibitor switch is located on
the transmission housing, and prevents the
engine from being started with the selector
lever in any position except “P” or “N”.
Access to the switch is gained after raising
and supporting the vehicle at the front end on
axle stands (see “Jacking and vehicle
support” ).
42 Detach the switch multi-plug, then
unscrew and remove the switch from the
transmission, together with its O-ring. As the
switch is removed, catch any fluid spillage in a
suitable container, and plug the switch
aperture in the transmission to prevent any
further loss.
43 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure. Use a new O-ring, and tighten the
switch securely. Ensure that the wiring
connection is securely made. On completion,
check and if necessary top-up the automatic
transmission fluid (see Chapter 1) then check
that the engine only starts when the selector
is in the “P” or “N” position.
Luggage area contact plate
44 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
45 Open the tailgate and release the contact
plate side retaining clips using a thin-bladed
screwdriver. Push the contact plate from its
location in the body.
46 Disconnect the wiring multi-plug and
remove the plate (see illustration).
47 Refit in the reverse order of removal.
Luggage area contact switch
48Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
49 Open the tailgate and remove its inner
trim panel (see Chapter 11).
12•6 Body electrical systems
4.46 Withdrawing the luggage area
contact plate for access to disconnect the
multi-plug4.30 Removing the cover from thehandbrake warning light switch
4.23 Heater fan motor control switch removal4.20b . . . then disconnect its multiplugand remove the switch4.20a Prise the centre console switch up from its location . . .
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2Carry out the procedure detailed in Sec-
tion 16, paragraphs 2 to 6.
3 Remove the collars from the pivot shafts,
unscrew the pivot shaft securing nuts and
remove the washers and outer rubber bushes
(see illustration) .
4 Undo the two wiper motor bracket securing
bolts and remove the bracket assembly from
the vehicle, disconnecting the multi-plug
from the motor as the assembly is withdrawn
(see illustration) .
5 Remove the inner rubber bush from the
pivot shaft being renewed, and disconnect its
linkage as described in paragraph 12 of the
previous Section.
6 Remove the circlip, washers, shims and O-
ring, keeping them in order for refitting, and
withdraw the pivot shaft from the wiper motor
bracket assembly.
Refitting
7 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure, greasing the pivot shaft with the
specified lubricant before inserting it to its
location. Refer to paragraph 15 in the previous
Section before refitting the linkage. Reference
must also be made to the Specificationsfor
details of tightening torques.
8 Refit the windscreen wiper arms in
accordance with Section 15. Refit the
expansion tank as described in Chapter 3.
18 Tailgate wiper motor assembly -
removal and refitting
1
Removal
1 Operate the wiper, then switch it off so that
it returns to its rest position. Note that the
wiper motor will only operate with the tailgate
shut, as the spring-tensioned connector pins
must be in contact with the contact plates.
2 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
3 Remove the wiper arm with reference to
Section 15. 4
Remove the tailgate trim panel as
described in Chapter 11.
5 Disconnect the wiper motor multi-plug and
earth lead, then undo the three bolts securing
the wiper motor bracket, and remove the
assembly from the vehicle (see illustration).
6 The wiper motor may be separated from its
bracket by undoing the three mounting bolts
securing it. Note washer/spacer and rubber
insulator fitment.
Refitting
7 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure, ensuring that the wiper motor
shaft locates through its collar on the exterior
panel surface. Tighten all bolts to their
specified torque.
19 Windscreen/tailgate washer system components -
removal and refitting
1
Removal
Washer pump
1 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see
“Jacking and vehicle support” ).
2 Withdraw the washer pump from the
reservoir, collecting the fluid in a suitable
container as the pump is removed. Note the
seal fitment (see illustration) .
3 Having noted hose fitment to pump
connectors, remove the multi-plug and hoses,
then remove the pump from the vehicle.
4 Examine the pump seal. If it is perished or
otherwise damaged, it should be replaced.
Reservoir
5 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
6 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and vehicle support” ). Remove
the left-hand front roadwheel.
7 Remove the wheelarch liner as described in
Chapter 11.
8 Withdraw the windscreen/tailgate washer
pump from the reservoir with its hoses and
multi-plug attached, collecting the fluid in a
suitable container. Note the seal fitment.
9 Release the hoses and wiring from the
reservoir guide and remove the three reservoir
securing bolts (see illustration) . Remove the
reservoir.
12•14 Body electrical systems
19.9 Windscreen/tailgate washer reservoir
securing bolts (arrowed)
A In engine compartment
B In wheelarch (wheelarch liner removed)
19.2 Exploded view of windscreen/tailgate washer reservoir and pump components
A Cap
B Filter
C Reservoir
D Washer pump
E Pump seal F Tailgate washer
hose
G Windscreen
washer hose
(marked with
adhesive tape)
18.5 Tailgate wiper motor
A Wiper motor bracket retaining bolts
B Wiper motor and tailgate “contact fingers” multi- plugs
C Earth connection17.4 Removing the wiper motor bracket and linkage assembly (wiper motor removed)17.3 Windscreen wiper pivot shaft fixture
A Collar
B Pivot shaft securing nut
C Washer
D Outer rubber bush
E Inner rubber bush
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Windscreen washer jets and hoses
10Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
11 With the bonnet raised and supported on
its stay, release the fasteners securing its
insulation panel (where fitted). Remove the
insulation panel.
12 Carefully press in the retaining lugs on the
washer jets using a flat-bladed screwdriver,
then raise the washer jets from the exterior
surface of the bonnet and separate them from
their hoses
13 The windscreen washer jet hose may have
been fitted with a one-way (non-return) valve.
If this is the case, the main hose run sections
can be removed from either side of the valve
as required.
14 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and vehicle support” ).
15 Disconnect the windscreen washer hose
(marked with adhesive tape) from the washer
pump (see illustration 19.2) . Withdraw the
hose from the reservoir guide, and into the
engine compartment.
16 Release the hose from its clips in the
engine compartment, including the bonnet
hinge clip, release the hose grommet from the
bonnet (where fitted) and withdraw the hoses
from the bonnet (see illustration) .
Tailgate washer jet and hose
17Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
18 On XR2i models, remove the tailgate
spoiler as described in Chapter 11.
19 Remove the central blanking plug from
the upper interior surface of the tailgate, to
expose the washer jet base.
20 Depress the washer jet retaining lug using
a flat-bladed screwdriver, then push the
washer jet out through the panel. From the
outside, fully withdraw the washer jet and
disconnect it from its hose. Note washer jet
seal fitment.
21 Remove the left-hand sun visor.
22 Remove the left-hand A-pillar trim as
described in Chapter 11. 23
Release the left-hand side of the
headlining by removing the retaining
clips/grab handles/coat hooks, as applicable.
24 In the engine compartment, disconnect
the tailgate washer hose from its valve. The
forward hose run may be removed, if required,
in a manner similar to that described in
paragraphs 15 and 16 above, releasing it from
its clips in the engine compartment.
25 Remove the tailgate washer hose
grommet, then withdraw the hose through the
bulkhead into the passenger compartment.
26 Release the hose from its A-pillar and roof
frame locations. Release the grommet (hose
protector) from its tailgate and body locations,
and withdraw the hose from the vehicle.
Refitting
27 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Always
renew the pump-to-reservoir seal washer, and
ensure that all connections are securely
made. When reconnecting the pump hoses,
ensure that the hose marked with tape is
connected to the correspondingly marked
connection on the pump.
28 On completion, top-up the washer
reservoir ( “see Weekly checks” ) and check
that the operation of the washers is
satisfactory. If necessary, adjust the
windscreen washer jets by inserting a pin into
the centre of the jet and directing the flow at
the top part of the windscreen.
20 Electric window regulator motor - removal and refitting
3
Removal
1Remove the window regulator from the
vehicle, as described in Chapter 11.
2 To remove the motor from the regulator
mechanism, undo and remove the two Torx
head bolts securing it, then carefully separate
by unscrewing (see illustration) .
Refitting
3Carefully screw the motor shaft into the
regulator mechanism.
4 Temporarily connect the multi-plug, switch on the ignition and activate the motor, to
engage and pull the motor fully into the
regulator mechanism.
5
Ensure that the multi-plug connection is
located on top of the motor (as if the window
regulator is in position in the door), before
securing the motor to the regulator
mechanism with its two Torx-head bolts.
6 Switch off the ignition and disconnect the
multi-plug.
7 Refit the window regulator to the vehicle, in
accordance with Chapter 11.
21 Tailgate remote release motor - removal and refitting
2
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Remove the tailgate inner trim panel as
described in Chapter 11.
3 Remove the two motor securing screws,
then twist the operating rod retaining clip and
withdraw the operating rod from it.
4 Disconnect the wiring and remove the
motor assembly.
5 The motor may be separated from its
bracket by removing two further screws.
Refitting
6 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure.
22 Radio/cassette player -
removal and refitting
3
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Unscrew the four hexagonal head securing
pins from the corners of the unit with an Allen
key (see illustration) .
3 In order to release the radio retaining clips,
two U-shaped rods must be inserted into the
special holes on each side of the radio (see
Body electrical systems 12•15
19.16 Routing of washer hoses in the
engine compartment
A Windscreen washer hose
B Tailgate washer hose
C Tailgate washer hose one-way valve
22.2 Unscrewing the securing pins from the radio/cassette player20.2 Electrically operated window motor-securing bolts (A), and multi-plug
connection (B)
12
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1595 Ford Fiesta Remake
REF
Dimensions and weights
Note:All figures are approximate, and may vary according to model. Refer to m\
anufacturer’s data for exact figures.
Dimensions
Overall length: 3/5 door hatchback models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3743 mm
XR2i, RS Turbo and RS 1800 models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3801 mm
Courier models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 4052 mm
Width (excluding mirrors): 3/5 door hatchback models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1606 mm
XR2i, RS Turbo and RS 1800 models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1630 mm
Courier models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 1650 mm
Overall height: 3/5 door hatchback models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1376 mm
XR2i, RS Turbo and RS 1800 models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1365 mm
Courier models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 1812 mm
Wheelbase: Courier models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 2700 mm
All other models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . 2446 mm
Front track: 3/5 door hatchback models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1392 mm
XR2i, RS Turbo and RS 1800 models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1406 mm
Courier models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 1392 mm
Rear track: 3/5 door hatchback models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1384 mm
XR2i, RS Turbo and RS 1800 models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1376 mm
Courier models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 1395 mm
Dimensions and weights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . REF•1
Vehicle identification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . REF•3
General repair procedures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . REF•4
Jacking and vehicle support . . . . . . . . . . . . . REF•5
Buying spare parts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . REF•5
Radio/cassette unit anti-theft system . . . . . REF•5Conversion factors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
REF•6
Tools and working facilities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . REF•7
MOT test checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . REF•10
Fault finding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . REF•14
Glossary of technical terms . . . . . . . . . . . . REF•22
Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . REF•27
Reference REF•1
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1595 Ford Fiesta Remake
The jack supplied with the vehicle tool kit
should only be used for changing the
roadwheels - see “Wheel changing” at the
front of this manual. When jacking up the
vehicle to carry out repair or maintenance
tasks, a pillar or trolley type jack of suitable
lifting capacity must be used, supplemented
with axle stands positioned only beneath the
appropriate points under the vehicle (see
illustration) . Note that the vehicle must never
be jacked up at the rear under the axle beam. The maximum kerb weight of the vehicle must
not be exceeded when jacking and supporting
the vehicle. Do not under any circumstances
jack up the rear of the vehicle under the rear axle.
Never work under, around or near a raised
vehicle unless it is adequately supported in at
least two places with axle stands.
The radio/cassette unit fitted as standard or
optional equipment may be equipped with a
built-in security code, to deter thieves. If the
power source to the unit is cut, the anti-theft
system will activate. Even if the power source
is immediately reconnected, the radio/
cassette unit will not function until the correct security code has been entered. Therefore,
if you do not know the correct security
code for the radio/cassette unit do not
disconnect either of the battery terminals, or
remove the radio/cassette unit from the
vehicle. To enter the correct security code, follow the instructions provided with the
radio/cassette player or vehicle handbook.
If an incorrect code is entered, the unit will
become locked, and cannot be operated.
If this happens, or if the security code is lost
or forgotten, seek the advice of your Ford
dealer.
Jacking and vehicle supportREF•5
REF
Radio/cassette unit anti-theft system - precaution
Underside view of the vehicle showing the jacking point locations
A Jacking points for trolley jack (always use a suitable block
of wood to protect the
vehicle body)
B Axle stand positions
C Jacking points for owner jack and wheel-free hoist
Buying spare parts
Spare parts are available from many
sources, including maker’s appointed
garages, accessory shops, and motor factors.
To be sure of obtaining the correct parts, it
will sometimes be necessary to quote the
vehicle identification number. If possible, it
can also be useful to take the old parts along
for positive identification. Items such as
starter motors and alternators may be
available under a service exchange scheme -
any parts returned should always be clean.
Our advice regarding spare part sources is
as follows.
Officially-appointed garages
This is the best source of parts which are
peculiar to your car, and which are not
otherwise generally available (eg badges,
interior trim, certain body panels, etc). It is
also the only place at which you should buy
parts if the vehicle is still under warranty.
Accessory shops
These are very good places to buy materials and components needed for the
maintenance of your car (oil, air and fuel
filters, spark plugs, light bulbs, drivebelts, oils
and greases, brake pads, touch-up paint, etc).
Components of this nature sold by a
reputable shop are of the same standard as
those used by the car manufacturer.
Besides components, these shops also sell
tools and general accessories, usually have
convenient opening hours, charge lower
prices, and can often be found not far from
home. Some accessory shops have parts
counters where the components needed for
almost any repair job can be purchased or
ordered.
Motor factors
Good factors will stock all the more
important components which wear out
comparatively quickly, and can sometimes
supply individual components needed for the
overhaul of a larger assembly (eg brake seals
and hydraulic parts, bearing shells, pistons,
valves, alternator brushes). They may also
handle work such as cylinder block reboring,
crankshaft regrinding and balancing, etc.
Tyre and exhaust specialists
These outlets may be independent, or
members of a local or national chain. They
frequently offer competitive prices when
compared with a main dealer or local garage,
but it will pay to obtain several quotes before
making a decision. When researching prices,
also ask what “extras” may be added - for
instance, fitting a new valve and balancing the
wheel are both commonly charged on top of
the price of a new tyre.
Other sources
Beware of parts or materials obtained from
market stalls, car boot sales or similar outlets.
Such items are not invariably sub-standard,
but there is little chance of compensation if
they do prove unsatisfactory. In the case of
safety-critical components such as brake
pads, there is the risk not only of financial loss
but also of an accident causing injury or
death. Second-hand components or assemblies
obtained from a car breaker can be a good
buy in some circumstances, but this sort of
purchase is best made by the experienced
DIY mechanic.
Buying spare parts
procarmanuals.com
http://vnx.su

Fault finding - clutch - REF•17
Fault finding - cooling system - REF•16
Fault finding - driveshafts - REF•19
Fault finding - electrical system - 5A•2,
12 •3, REF •20
Fault finding - engine - REF•15, REF•16,
REF•18
Fault finding - fuel and exhaust systems -
REF•17
Fault finding - manual transmission - REF•17
Fault finding - suspension and steering
systems - REF•19
Filling - 11•3
Filter, air -1•22, 1•23, 4A•3, 4B•4, 4C•3,
4D•3, 4E•5
Filter, oil -1•9
Filter, fuel -1•25
Fire - 0•5
Float - 4A•7, 4A•9, 4A•16
Fluid seals - 7B•3
Fluids - 0•17
Flywheel - 2A•11, 2B•14, 2C•16
Fuel consumption high - REF•17
Fuel cut-off switch - 4B•5, 4C•5, 4D•4
Fuel filler pipe - 4A•6, 4B•5, 4C•5, 4D•4
Fuel filter - 1•25
Fuel gauge - 4A•6, 4B•4, 4C•5, 4D•4, 12 •12
Fuel gauge fault - REF•20
Fuel hoses - 1•13
Fuel injectors - 4B•5, 4C•5, 4D•5
Fuel lines - 1•17, 4B•3, 4C•3, 4D•2
Fuel pressure check - 4C•4
Fuel pressure regulator - 4B•6, 4C•6, 4D•5
Fuel pump - 4A•5, 4B•4, 4C•4, 4C•5, 4D•4
Fuel rail - 4C•5, 4D•5
Fuel system - carburettor engines -4A•1 et
seq
Fuel system - central fuel injection engines
-4B•1 et seq
Fuel system - electronic fuel injection engines -4C•1 et seq
Fuel system - sequential electronic fuel
injection engines -4D•1 et seq
Fuel and exhaust systems - REF•13
Fuel and exhaust systems fault finding - REF•17
Fuel tank - 4A•5, 4A•6, 4B•4, 4B•5, 4C•5,
4D•4
Fuel trap - 4B•7
Fume or gas intoxication - 0•5
Fuses - 0•16, 12 •4
G
Gaiters - 1•16, 8•3, 8•4, 10 •15
Gashes in bodywork - 11•3
Gaskets - REF •4
Gear lever - 7A•2
Gear selection problems - REF•18
Gear selector - 7B•2
Gearbox oil - 0•17, 1•14
Gearbox - See Manual gearbox
Gearchange linkage - 7A•2
Gearchange selector - 7A•3
Glossary of technical terms - REF•22 et seq
Grab handle - 11•20
H
Handbrake - 1•25, 9•12, 9•13, 12 •6,
REF•10
Handles - 11•11, 11•13, 11 •20
Hazard warning switch - 12•8
HC emissions - REF•13
HCS engine in-car repair procedures -
2A•1 et seq
Headlight - 12•7, 12 •9, 12 •10
Heater - 3•2, 3•8, 12 •6, 12•9
Horn - 12•12
Horn fault - REF•20
HT lead - 1•20
Hub bearings - 10•5, 10•8, REF •12
Hydraulic pipes and hoses - 9•9
Hydraulic tappets - 2C•8
Hydrofluoric acid - 0•5
I
Idle speed -1•14, 1•15, 1•20, 4C•6
Idle speed control valve - 4D•6
Idling fault - REF•15
Ignition amplifier - 5B•5
Ignition switch - 12•5
Ignition system -5B•1 et seq
Ignition fault - REF•20
Ignition timing - 5B•7
Indicators - 12•7, 12•9, 12 •10
Injector ballast resistor - 4B•9
Injectors - 4C•5, 4D•5
Inlet manifold - 4A•18, 4B•9, 4C•8, 4D•7
Instruments - 1•18, 12•8, 12•11
Instrument fault - REF•20
Intercooler - 4C•8
Interior light - 12•6, 12 •9
J
Jacking and vehicle support - REF•5
Joint mating faces - REF•4
Joystick - 12•16
Jump starting - 0•7
L
Leaks -0•9, 1•12, REF •16, REF•17, REF•18,
REF•20
Light-laden valve - 9•13, 9•14
Lighter - 12•9, 12 •12
Lights-on warning module - 12•16
Load compartment - 11•20
Load-apportioning valve - 9•16
Locknuts ,locktabs and washers - REF•4
Locks - 11•11, 11•12, 11•13, 12 •5
Loudspeaker housing - 11•20
Lower arm - 10•8
Lubricants - 0•17
Luggage area - 12•6, 12•9
M
Main bearings - 2D•21, 2D•22
Manifold absolute pressure sensor - 4B•8,
4C•7 Manifolds -
4A•18, 4B•9, 4C•8, 4D•7, 4E•3
Manual gearbox
Manual transmission -2A•10, 2B•13,
2C•15, 2D•6, 2D•8, 2D•10, 7A•1 et seq
Manual transmission fault finding - REF•17
Manual transmission oil - 0•17, 1•14
Mass air flow sensor - 4D•6
Master cylinder - 9•7
Minor scratches in bodywork - 11•2
Mirrors - 11 •8, 11•9, REF •10
Misfire - REF•15
Mixture - 1•14, 1•15, 4C•7, REF•13
Modulator - 9•16
MOT test checks - REF•10et seq
Mountings - 2A•10, 2B•13, 2C•15
N
Needle valve - 4A•7, 4A•9, 4A•16
Number plate light - 12•8, 12 •10
O
Oil filter - 1•9
Oil pressure fault - REF•16
Oil pump - 2A•8, 2A•9, 2B•11, 2B•12,
2C•13
Oil seals - 2A•9, 2B•7, 2B•12, 2C•8, 2C•14,
7A•3, 7B•3, REF •4
Oil separator - 4E•5
Oil, engine - 0•12, 0•17, 1•9
Oil, manual transmission - 0•17, 1•14
Open-circuit - 12•4
Overcooling - REF•16
Overheating - REF•16
Oxygen sensor - 4B•8, 4C•7, 4D•7
P
Pads -9•2
Paint - 1•18
Parcel shelf - 11•20
Parking light - 12•7
Passive Anti-Theft System (PATS) - 12•17
Pedals - 4A•4, 4B•4, 4C•4, 4D•3, 6•2, 9•8,
9•9
Pinking - REF•16
Piston rings - 2D•22
Pistons - 2D•17, 2D•24, 2D•25
Plastic components - 11•4
Poisonous or irritant substances - 0•5
Positive crankcase ventilation system - 4E•1, 4E•5
Power steering - 10•14, 10•15, 10•16,
10 •17
Power steering fluid - 0•13, 0•17
Power steering pressure switch - 4B•8,
4C•7, 4D•7
Pre-ignition - REF•16
Printed circuit - 12•11
Pulse-air system - 4E•2, 4E•6, 4E•7
Q
Quarter mouldings - 11•8
REF•28Index
1595 Ford Fiesta Remakeprocarmanuals.com
http://vnx.su