check transmission fluid FORD FIESTA 1989 Service Repair Manual

1
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
Chapter 1
Routine maintenance and servicing
Air cleaner element renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Automatic transmission fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Automatic transmission fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Auxiliary drivebelt check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Bodywork, paint and exterior trim check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Brake check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . 14
Brake fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . 31
Coolant renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . 23
Door, tailgate and bonnet check and lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Driveshaft rubber gaiter and CV joint check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Emission control system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Engine compartment wiring check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Engine oil and filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Exhaust system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Front wheel alignment check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Fuel filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . 30Handbrake adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Idle speed and mixture check and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Idle speed control valve cleaning and maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Intensive maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . 1
Manual transmission oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Road test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . 19
Roadwheel nut tightness check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Seat belt check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . 17
Spark plug renewal and HT component check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Steering, suspension and roadwheel check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Timing belt renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . 29
Underbody and fuel/brake line check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Underbonnet check for fluid leaks and hose condition . . . . . . . . . . 5
Valve clearance adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
1•1
Contents
Easy,
suitable for
novice with little
experience Fairly easy,
suitable
for beginner with
some experience Fairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,
suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanic Very difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321
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Lubricants and fluids
Refer to end of “Weekly Checks”
Capacities
Engine oil
At oil and filter change:HCS engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . 3.25 litres
CVH and PTE engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
3.50 litresZetec engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . 4.25 litres
Difference between dipstick minimum and maximum level notches . . . 0.5 to 1.0 litre
Cooling system
HCS engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . 7.1 litresCVH and PTE engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . 7.6 litresZetec engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . 7.0 litres
Fuel tank . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . 42.0 litres
Manual transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . 3.1 litres
Automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
3.5 litres
Engine
Direction of crankshaft rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clockwise (seen from right-hand side of vehicle)
Oil filter: HCS, CVH and PTE engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion C104
Zetec engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . Champion C148
Cooling system
Coolant protection at standard 40% antifreeze/water mixture ratio:Slush point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . -25ºC (-13ºF)Solidifying point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . -30ºC (-22ºF)
Coolant specific gravity at standard 40% antifreeze/water
mixture ratio and 15ºC/59ºF - with no other additives in coolant . . . . . 1.061
Fuel system
Idle speed*: 1.0, 1.1 and 1.3 litre HCS (carburettor) engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 750 ± 50 rpm (cooling fan running)
1.4 and 1.6 litre CVH (carburettor) engines:
Manual transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
800 ± 50 rpm (cooling fan running)CTX automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 850 ± 50 rpm (cooling fan running)
1.6 litre CVH (EFi fuel injection) engines: Idle speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . 900 ± 50 rpmBase idle speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . 750 ± 50 rpm
Idle mixture CO content*: 1.0, 1.1 and 1.3 litre HCS (carburettor) engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 ± 0.5%
1.4 litre CVH (carburettor) engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 ± 0.25%
1.6 litre CVH (carburettor) engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 ± 0.5%
1.6 litre CVH (fuel injection) engines:Non turbo models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . 0.8 ± 0.25%
Turbo models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . 1.5 ± 0.25%
*Note: The idle speed and mixture CO content is only adjustable on the engines \
shown above. On all other engines, it is controlled by the engine
management system, and cannot be checked or adjusted without specialised\
test equipment.
Air filter element: 1.0, 1.1 and 1.3 litre HCS engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion W153
1.4 litre CVH and PTE engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion W226
1.6 litre CVH (carburettor) engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion W226
1.6 litre CVH (fuel injection) engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion U557
1.6 and 1.8 litre Zetec engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion U612
Fuel filter:
HCS, CVH (fuel injection) and PTE engines:Without quick-release fuel line fittings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion L204
With quick-release fuel line fittings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion type not available
Zetec engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . Champion L218
1•2Servicing Specifications
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The maintenance schedule for these
vehicles, based on the manufacturer’s
recommendations, is as described below -
note that the schedule starts from the
vehicle’s date of registration. These are the
minimum maintenance intervals recommen-
ded by the factory for Fiestas driven daily, but
subjected only to “normal” use. If you wish to
keep your vehicle in peak condition at all
times, you may wish to perform some of these
procedures even more often. Because
frequent maintenance enhances the
efficiency, performance and resale value of
your vehicle, we encourage you to do so. If
your usage is not “normal”, shorter intervals are also recommended - the most important
examples of these are noted in the schedule.
These shorter intervals apply particularly if
you drive in dusty areas, tow a caravan or
trailer, sit with the engine idling or drive at low
speeds for extended periods (ie, in heavy
traffic), or drive for short distances (less
than four miles) in below-freezing
temperatures.
When your vehicle is new, it should be
serviced by a Ford dealer service department
to protect the factory warranty. In many
cases, the initial maintenance check is done
at no cost to the owner. Note that this first
free service (carried out by the selling dealer 1500 miles or 3 months after delivery),
although an important check for a new
vehicle, is not part of the regular maintenance
schedule, and is therefore not mentioned
here.
It should be noted that for the 1992 model
year, for all models except RS Turbo, the
service time/mileage intervals were
extended by the manufacturer to the periods
shown in this schedule. Although these
intervals can be applied retrospectively,
owners of earlier vehicles may notice a
discrepancy between this schedule and the
one shown in the Service Guide supplied
with the vehicle.
1•4Maintenance schedule
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
Every 250 miles (400 km) or weekly
m
m Refer to “Weekly Checks” .
Every 5000 miles (8000 km) or
6 months, whichever occurs first
Note: Frequent oil and filter changes are good for the engine. We
recommend changing the oil at the mileage specified here, or at least
twice a year if the mileage covered is less.
m m Renew the engine oil and filter (Section 3).
Every 10 000 miles (16 000 km) or
12 months, whichever occurs first
Carry out all operations listed above, plus the following:
m mCheck the auxiliary drivebelt (Section 4).
m
m Check under the bonnet for fluid leaks and hose condition
(Section 5).
m
m Check the condition of all engine compartment wiring (Sec-
tion 6).
m
m Check the valve clearance adjustment - HCS engines only
(Section 7).
m
m Check the manual transmission oil level (Section 8).
m
m Check the engine idle speed and mixture - HCS and CVH
engines only, where possible (Section 9).
m
m Check the steering, suspension and roadwheels (Section 10).
m
m Check the driveshaft rubber gaiters and CV joints (Section 11).
m
m Check the exhaust system (Section 12).
m
m Check the underbody, and all fuel/brake lines (Section 13).
m
m Check the brake system (Section 14).
m
m Check the security of all roadwheel nuts (Section 15).
m
m Check the doors, tailgate and bonnet, and lubricate their hinges
and locks (Section 16).
m
m Check the seat belts (Section 17).
m
m Check the condition of the bodywork, paint and exterior trim
(Section 18).
m
m Road test (Section 19).
m
m Check the automatic transmission fluid level (Section 20).
Every 20 000 miles (32 000 km) or
two years, whichever occurs first
Carry out all operations listed above, plus the following:
m mRenew the spark plugs and check the condition of the HT leads
- all engines except Zetec (Section 21).
m
m Clean the idle speed control valve (Weber type) - CVH EFi
engines only (Section 22).
Every 30 000 miles (48 000 km) or
three years, whichever occurs first
Carry out all operations listed above, plus the following:
m m Renew the coolant (Section 23).
m
m Renew the air cleaner filter element and check the air cleaner
temperature control system - carburettor engines only (Sec-
tion 24).
m m Check the emission control systems (Section 25).
m
m Renew the spark plugs and check the condition of the HT leads
- Zetec engines (Section 21).
m
m Renew the automatic transmission fluid (Section 26).
m
m Check the handbrake adjustment (Section 27).
m
m Check the front wheel alignment (Section 28).
Note: If the vehicle is used regularly in dusty or polluted conditions,
the air cleaner filter element should be renewed at more frequent
intervals.
Every 40 000 miles
m
m Renew the timing belt - CVH and PTE engines only (Section 29).
Every 60 000 miles
m
mRenew the timing belt - Zetec engines only (Section 29).
m
m Renew the fuel filter (Section 30).
Every three years
(regardless of mileage)
m m Renew the brake fluid (Section 31).
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3 Engine oil and filter renewal
1
1Make sure that you have all the necessary
tools before you begin this procedure (see
illustration) . You should also have plenty of
rags or newspapers handy, for mopping up
any spills.
2 To avoid any possibility of scalding, and to
protect yourself from possible skin irritants
and other harmful contaminants in used
engine oils, it is advisable to wear gloves
when carrying out this work. 3
Access to the underside of the vehicle is
greatly improved if the vehicle can be lifted on a
hoist, driven onto ramps, or supported by axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ).
Warning: Do not work under a
vehicle which is supported only
by an hydraulic or scissors-type
jack, or by bricks, blocks of
wood, etc. 4
If this is your first oil change, get under the
vehicle and familiarise yourself with the
position of the engine oil drain plug location in
the sump. The engine and exhaust
components will be warm during the actual
work, so try to anticipate any potential
problems while the engine and accessories
are cool.
5 The oil should preferably be changed when
the engine is still fully warmed-up to normal
operating temperature, just after a run (the
needle on the temperature gauge should be in
the “Normal” sector of the gauge); warm oil
and sludge will flow out more easily. Park the
vehicle on firm, level ground, apply the
handbrake firmly, then select 1st or reverse
gear (manual transmission) or the “P” position
(automatic transmission). Open the bonnet
and remove the engine oil filler cap from the
cylinder head cover, then remove the oil level
dipstick from its tube (see “Weekly Checks”).
6 Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it
securely on axle stands (see “Jacking and
Vehicle Support” ). Remove the front right-
hand roadwheel to provide access to the oil
1 Introduction
This Chapter is designed to help the home
mechanic maintain his/her vehicle for safety,
economy, long life and peak performance.
This Chapter contains a master
maintenance schedule, followed by Sections
dealing specifically with each task in the
schedule. Visual checks, adjustments,
component renewal and other helpful items
are included. Refer to the accompanying
illustrations of the engine compartment and
the underside of the vehicle for the locations
of the various components.
Servicing your vehicle in accordance with
the mileage/time maintenance schedule and
the following Sections will provide a planned
maintenance programme, which should result
in a long and reliable service life. This is a
comprehensive plan, so maintaining some
items but not others at the specified service
intervals will not produce the same results. As you service your vehicle, you will
discover that many of the procedures can -
and should - be grouped together, because of
the particular procedure being performed, or
because of the close proximity of two
otherwise-unrelated components to one
another. For example, if the vehicle is raised
for any reason, the exhaust should be
inspected at the same time as the suspension
and steering components.
The first step of this maintenance
programme is to prepare yourself before the
actual work begins. Read through all the Sections relevant to the work to be carried
out, then make a list and gather together all
the parts and tools required. If a problem is
encountered, seek advice from a parts
specialist or a dealer service department.
2 Intensive maintenance
1
If, from the time the vehicle is new, the
routine maintenance schedule is followed
closely, and frequent checks are made of fluid
levels and high-wear items, as suggested
throughout this manual, the engine will be
kept in relatively good running condition, and
the need for additional work will be minimised.
2 It is possible that there will be some times
when the engine is running poorly due to the
lack of regular maintenance. This is even more
likely if a used vehicle, which has not received
regular and frequent maintenance checks, is
purchased. In such cases, additional work
may need to be carried out, outside of the
regular maintenance intervals.
3 If engine wear is suspected, a compression
test (refer to Part A, B or C of Chapter 2) will
provide valuable information regarding the
overall performance of the main internal
components. Such a test can be used as a
basis to decide on the extent of the work to
be carried out. If, for example, a compression
test indicates serious internal engine wear,
conventional maintenance as described in this
Chapter will not greatly improve the
performance of the engine, and may prove a waste of time and money, unless extensive
overhaul work (Chapter 2D) is carried out first.
4
The following series of operations are those
often required to improve the performance of
a generally poor-running engine:
Primary operations
a) Clean, inspect and test the battery (See
“Weekly Checks”).
b) Check all the engine-related fluids (See
“Weekly Checks”).
c) Check the condition of the auxiliary drivebelt (Section 4).
d) Check and if necessary adjust the valve
clearances on HCS engines (Section 7).
e) Renew the spark plugs and clean and inspect the HT leads (Section 21).
f) Check the condition of the air cleaner filter element and renew if necessary
(Section 24).
g) Check and if necessary adjust the idle speed and mixture settings - where
applicable (Section 9).
h) Renew the fuel filter - fuel injection models (Section 30).
i) Check the condition of all hoses, and check for fluid leaks (Section 5).
5 If the above operations do not prove fully
effective, carry out the following operations:
Secondary operations
All the items listed under “Primary
operations”, plus the following: a) Check the charging system (Chapter 5A).
b) Check the ignition system (Chapter 5B).
c) Check the fuel system (Chapter 4A, 4B,
4C and 4D).
e) Renew the ignition HT leads (Section 21).
Maintenance procedures1•9
3.2 These tools are required when changing the engine oil and filter
1
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
Every 5000 miles (8000 km) or 6 months, whichever occurs first
Frequent oil changes are the
best preventive
maintenance the home
mechanic can give the
engine, because ageing oil becomes
diluted and contaminated, which leads
to premature engine wear.
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squeezed (see illustration) . If you are using
non-Ford specification antifreeze, and so
have to renew the coolant every two years or
so, it’s a good idea to renew the hoses at that
time, regardless of their apparent condition.
3 Make sure that all hose connections are
tight. A leak in the cooling system will usually
show up as white- or rust-coloured deposits
on the areas adjoining the leak; if the spring
clamps that are used to secure the hoses in
this system appear to be slackening, they
should be renewed to prevent the possibility
of leaks.
4 Some other hoses are secured to their
fittings with clamps. Where clamps are used,
check to be sure they haven’t lost their
tension, allowing the hose to leak. If clamps
aren’t used, make sure the hose has not
expanded and/or hardened where it slips over
the fitting, allowing it to leak.
5 Check all fluid reservoirs, filler caps, drain
plugs and fittings etc, looking for any signs
of leakage of oil, transmission and/or brake
hydraulic fluid, coolant and power steering
fluid. If the vehicle is regularly parked in the
same place, close inspection of the ground
underneath it will soon show any leaks. As
soon as a leak is detected, its source must
be traced and rectified. Where oil has been
leaking for some time, it is usually necessary
to use a steam cleaner, pressure washer or
similar, to clean away the accumulated
dirt, so that (when the engine is run again)
the exact source of the leak can be
identified.
Vacuum hoses
6 It’s quite common for vacuum hoses,
especially those in the emissions system, to be
colour-coded, or to be identified by coloured stripes moulded into them. Various systems
require hoses with different wall thicknesses,
collapse resistance and temperature
resistance. When renewing hoses, be sure the
new ones are made of the same material.
7
Often the only effective way to check a
hose is to remove it completely from the
vehicle. If more than one hose is removed, be
sure to label the hoses and fittings to ensure
correct installation.
8 When checking vacuum hoses, be sure to
include any plastic T-fittings in the check.
Inspect the fittings for cracks, and check the
hose where it fits over the fitting for distortion,
which could cause leakage.
9 A small piece of vacuum hose (quarter-inch
inside diameter) can be used as a
stethoscope to detect vacuum leaks. Hold
one end of the hose to your ear, and probe
around vacuum hoses and fittings, listening
for the “hissing” sound characteristic of a
vacuum leak. Warning: When probing with the
vacuum-hose stethoscope, be
very careful not to come into
contact with moving engine
components such as the auxiliary
drivebelt, radiator electric cooling fan, etc.
Fuel hoses
Warning: There are certain
precautions which must be
taken when inspecting or
servicing fuel system
components. Work in a well-ventilated
area, and do not allow open flames
(cigarettes, appliance pilot lights, etc.) or
bare light bulbs near the work area. Mop
up any spills immediately, and do not store
fuel-soaked rags where they could ignite.
10 Check all fuel hoses for deterioration and
chafing. Check especially for cracks in areas
where the hose bends, and also just before
fittings, such as where a hose attaches to the
fuel filter.
11 High-quality fuel line, usually identified by
the word “Fluoroelastomer” printed on the
hose, should be used for fuel line renewal.
Never, under any circumstances, use
unreinforced vacuum line, clear plastic tubing
or water hose for fuel lines.
12 Spring- type clamps are commonly used
on fuel lines. These clamps often lose their
tension over a period of time, and can be
“sprung” during removal. Replace all
spring- type clamps with screw clamps
whenever a hose is replaced.
Metal lines
13 Sections of metal piping are often used
for fuel line between the fuel filter and the
engine. Check carefully to be sure the piping
has not been bent or crimped, and that cracks
have not started in the line.
14 If a section of metal fuel line must be
renewed, only seamless steel piping should
be used, since copper and aluminium piping
don’t have the strength necessary to
withstand normal engine vibration. 15
Check the metal brake lines where they
enter the master cylinder and ABS hydraulic
unit (if used) for cracks in the lines or loose
fittings. Any sign of brake fluid leakage calls
for an immediate and thorough inspection of
the brake system.
6 Engine compartment wiring check
1
1With the vehicle parked on level ground,
apply the handbrake firmly and open the
bonnet. Using an inspection light or a small
electric torch, check all visible wiring within
and beneath the engine compartment.
2 What you are looking for is wiring that is
obviously damaged by chafing against sharp
edges, or against moving suspension/
transmission components and/or the auxiliary
drivebelt, by being trapped or crushed
between carelessly-refitted components, or
melted by being forced into contact with the
hot engine castings, coolant pipes, etc. In
almost all cases, damage of this sort is
caused in the first instance by incorrect
routing on reassembly, after previous work
has been carried out.
3 Depending on the extent of the problem,
damaged wiring may be repaired by rejoining
the break or splicing-in a new length of wire,
using solder to ensure a good connection,
and remaking the insulation with adhesive
insulating tape or heat-shrink tubing, as
appropriate. If the damage is extensive, given
the implications for the vehicle’s future
reliability, the best long-term answer may well
be to renew that entire section of the loom,
however expensive this may appear.
4 When the actual damage has been
repaired, ensure that the wiring loom is re-
routed correctly, so that it is clear of other
components, and not stretched or kinked, and
is secured out of harm’s way using the plastic
clips, guides and ties provided.
5 Check all electrical connectors, ensuring
that they are clean, securely fastened, and
that each is locked by its plastic tabs or wire
clip, as appropriate. If any connector shows
external signs of corrosion (accumulations of
white or green deposits, or streaks of “rust”),
or if any is thought to be dirty, it must be
unplugged and cleaned using electrical
contact cleaner. If the connector pins are
severely corroded, the connector must be
renewed; note that this may mean the renewal
of that entire section of the loom - see your
local Ford dealer for details.
6 If the cleaner completely removes the
corrosion to leave the connector in a
satisfactory condition, it would be wise to
pack the connector with a suitable material
which will exclude dirt and moisture,
preventing the corrosion from occurring
again; a Ford dealer may be able to
recommend a suitable product.
7 Check the condition of the battery
Every 10 000 miles or 12 months1•13
5.2 Hoses, like drivebelts, have a habit of
failing at the worst possible time - to
prevent the inconvenience of a blown radiator or heater hose, inspect them
carefully as shown here
1
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3Check that the roadwheel nuts are tightened
to the specified torque wrench setting.
4 Refit the wheel covers.
16 Door, tailgate and bonnet
check and lubrication
1
1Check that the doors and tailgate/boot lid
close securely. Check that the bonnet safety
catch operates correctly. Check the operation
of the door check straps.
2 Lubricate the hinges, door check straps,
the striker plates and the bonnet catch
sparingly with a little oil or grease.
17 Seat belt check
1
1 Check the seat belts for satisfactory
operation and condition. Inspect the webbing
for fraying and cuts. Check that they retract
smoothly and without binding into their reels.
2 Check that the seat belt mounting bolts are
tight, and if necessary tighten them to the
specified torque wrench settings as given in
Chapter 11.
18 Bodywork, paint and exterior trim check
1
1The best time to carry out this check is after
the car has been washed so that any surface
blemish or scratch will be clearly evident and
not hidden by a film of dirt.
2 Starting at one front corner check the
paintwork all around the car, looking for minor
scratches or more serious dents. Check all
the trim and make sure that it is securely
attached over its entire length.
3 Check the security of all door locks, door
mirrors, badges, bumpers, front grille and
wheel trim. Anything found loose, or in need of
further attention should be done with reference
to the relevant Chapters of this manual.
4 Rectify any problems noticed with the
paintwork or body panels as described in
Chapter 11.
19 Road test
1
Check the operation and
performance of the braking
system
1 Make sure that the vehicle does not pull to
one side when braking, and that the wheels
do not lock prematurely when braking hard.
2 Check that there is no vibration through the
steering when braking. 3
Check that the handbrake operates
correctly, without excessive movement of the
lever, and that it holds the vehicle stationary
on a slope.
4 Test the operation of the brake servo unit
as follows. With the engine switched off,
depress the footbrake four or five times to
exhaust the vacuum, then hold the pedal
depressed. Start the engine, and there should
be a noticeable “give” in the brake pedal as
vacuum builds up. Allow the engine to run for
at least two minutes, and then switch it off. If
the brake pedal is depressed again, it should
be possible to detect a hiss from the servo as
the pedal is depressed. After about four or five
applications, no further hissing should be
heard, and the pedal should feel considerably
firmer.
Steering and suspension
5 Check for any abnormalities in the steering,
suspension, handling or road “feel”.
6 Drive the vehicle, and check that there are
no unusual vibrations or noises.
7 Check that the steering feels positive, with
no excessive sloppiness or roughness, and
check for any suspension noises when
cornering and driving over bumps.
Drivetrain
8 Check the performance of the engine,
transmission and driveshafts.
9 Check that the engine starts correctly, both
when cold and when hot.
10 Listen for any unusual noises from the
engine and transmission.
11 Make sure that the engine runs smoothly
when idling, and that there is no hesitation
when accelerating.
12 On manual transmission models, check
that all gears can be engaged smoothly
without noise, and that the gear lever action is
not abnormally vague or “notchy”.
13 On automatic transmission models, make
sure that the drive seems smooth without
jerks or engine speed “flare-ups”. Check that
all the gear positions can be selected with the
vehicle at rest. If any problems are found, they
should be referred to a Ford dealer.
14 Listen for a metallic clicking sound from
the front of the vehicle, as the vehicle is driven
slowly in a circle with the steering on full-lock.
Carry out this check in both directions. If a
clicking noise is heard, this indicates wear in a
driveshaft joint, in which case renew the joint
if necessary.
Clutch
15 Check that the clutch pedal moves
smoothly and easily through its full travel, and
that the clutch itself functions correctly, with
no trace of slip or drag. If the movement is
uneven or stiff in places, check that the cable
is routed correctly, with no sharp turns.
16 Inspect both ends of the clutch inner
cable, both at the transmission end and inside
the car, for signs of wear and fraying.
Instruments and electrical
equipment
17 Check the operation of all instruments
and electrical equipment.
18 Make sure that all instruments read
correctly, and switch on all electrical equipment
in turn, to check that it functions properly.
20 Automatic transmission fluid level check
1
1The level of the automatic transmission fluid
should be carefully maintained. Low fluid level
can lead to slipping or loss of drive, while
overfilling can cause foaming, loss of fluid and
transmission damage.
2 The transmission fluid level should only be
checked when the transmission is hot (at its
normal operating temperature). If the vehicle
has just been driven over 10 miles (15 miles in
a cold climate), and the fluid temperature is 60
to 70ºC, the transmission is hot.
Caution: If the vehicle has just been driven
for a long time at high speed or in city
traffic in hot weather, or if it has been
pulling a trailer, an accurate fluid level
reading cannot be obtained. In these
circumstances, allow the fluid to cool
down for about 30 minutes.
3 Park the vehicle on level ground, apply the
handbrake, and start the engine. While the
engine is idling, depress the brake pedal and
move the selector lever through all the gear
positions three times, beginning and ending in
“P”.
4 Allow the engine to idle for one minute, then
(with the engine still idling) remove the
dipstick from its tube. Note the condition and
colour of the fluid on the dipstick.
5 Wipe the fluid from the dipstick with a clean
rag, and re-insert it into the filler tube until the
cap seats.
6 Pull the dipstick out again, and note the
fluid level. The level should be between
the “MIN” and “MAX” marks. If the level is
on the “MIN” mark, stop the engine, and add
the specified automatic transmission fluid
through the dipstick tube, using a clean funnel
if necessary. It is important not to introduce
dirt into the transmission when topping-up.
7 Add the fluid a little at a time, and keep
checking the level as previously described
until it is correct. The difference between the
“MIN” and “MAX” marks on the dipstick is
approximately 0.4 litres.
8 The need for regular topping-up of the
transmission fluid indicates a leak, which
should be found and rectified without delay.
9 The condition of the fluid should also be
checked along with the level. If the fluid on the
dipstick is black or a dark reddish-brown
colour, or if it has a burned smell, the fluid
should be changed. If you are in doubt about
the condition of the fluid, purchase some new
fluid, and compare the two for colour and smell.
1•18Every 10 000 miles or 12 months
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engine idling, the hot-air inlet is open to allow
warm air from the exhaust manifold area to
enter the air cleaner. If the flap operates as
described, it is functioning correctly (see
illustration) .
21 If the flap fails to operate as described,
check the condition of the vacuum pipe and
its connections, and check that the flap valve
has not seized. If these are in order, either the
temperature sensor or vacuum actuator is
faulty, and a new air cleaner assembly must
be obtained. Refit the main air duct on
completion.
25 Emission control system
check
1
General
1Of the emission control systems that may
be fitted, only the crankcase ventilation
system and the evaporative emission control
systems require regular checking, and even
then, the components of these systems
require minimal attention.
2 Should it be felt that the other systems are
not functioning correctly, the advice of a
dealer should be sought.
Crankcase ventilation system
3 The function of the crankcase ventilation
system is to reduce the emission of unburned
hydrocarbons from the crankcase, and to
minimise the formation of oil sludge. By
ensuring that a depression is created in the
crankcase under most operating conditions,
particularly at idle, and by positively inducing
fresh air into the system, the oil vapours and
“blow-by” gases collected in the crankcase
are drawn from the crankcase, through the air
cleaner or oil separator, into the inlet tract, to
be burned by the engine during normal
combustion.
4 On HCS engines, the system consists of a
vented oil filler cap (with an integral mesh
filter) and a hose connecting it to the oil
separator/engine breather valve connector on
the underside of the air cleaner housing. A further hose leads from the adapter/filter to
the inlet manifold.
5
On CVH engines, a closed-circuit type
crankcase ventilation system is used, the
function of which is basically the same as that
described for the HCS engine types, but the
breather hose connects directly to the rocker
cover. A separate filter is fitted in the hose to
the rocker cover in certain applications (see
illustration) .
6 The system fitted to the PTE engines is
similar to that used on the earlier (CVH)
engines on which these engines are based,
but with revisions to the hose arrangement to
suit the remotely sited air cleaner and fuel
injection system layout.
7 On Zetec engines, the crankcase ventilation
system main components are the oil
separator mounted on the front (radiator) side
of the cylinder block/crankcase, and the
Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve set
in a rubber grommet in the separator’s left-
hand upper end. The associated pipework
consists of a crankcase breather pipe and two
flexible hoses connecting the PCV valve to a
union on the left-hand end of the inlet
manifold, and a crankcase breather hose
connecting the cylinder head cover to the air
cleaner assembly. A small foam filter in the
air cleaner prevents dirt from being drawn
directly into the engine.
8 Check that all components of the system
are securely fastened, correctly routed (with
no kinks or sharp bends to restrict flow) and in
sound condition; renew any worn or damaged
components.
9 On HCS engines, remove and inspect the
oil filler cap to ensure that it is in good
condition, and not blocked up with sludge.
10 Disconnect the hoses at the cap, and
clean the cap if necessary by brushing the
inner mesh filter with petrol, and blowing
through with light pressure from an air line.
Renew the cap if it is badly congested.
11 If oil leakage is noted, disconnect the
various hoses and pipes, and check that all
are clear and unblocked. Remove the air
cleaner lid, and check that the hose from the
cylinder head cover to the air cleaner housing
is clear and undamaged. 12
Where fitted, the PCV valve is designed to
allow gases to flow out of the crankcase only,
so that a depression is created in the
crankcase under most operating conditions,
particularly at idle. Therefore, if either the oil
separator or the PCV valve are thought to be
blocked, they must be renewed (see Chap-
ter 4E). In such a case, however, there is
nothing to be lost by attempting to flush out
the blockage using a suitable solvent. The
PCV valve should rattle when shaken.
13 While the air filter element is removed (see
Section 24), wipe out the housing, and on
Zetec engines, withdraw the small foam filter
from its location in the rear right-hand corner
of the housing (see illustration) . If the foam is
badly clogged with dirt or oil, it must be
cleaned by soaking it in a suitable solvent,
and allowed to dry before being refitted.
Evaporative emission control
systems
14 Refer to the checks contained in Chap-
ter 4E.
26 Automatic transmission fluid renewal
1
1The automatic transmission fluid should
only be changed when the transmission is
cold.
2 Position the vehicle over an inspection pit,
on vehicle ramps, or jack it up and securely
support it on axle stands, but make sure that
it is level.
3 Place a suitable container beneath the drain
plug on the transmission sump pan. Remove
the transmission fluid dipstick to speed up the
draining operation.
4 Thoroughly clean the area around the drain
plug in the transmission sump pan, then
unscrew the plug and allow the fluid to drain
into the container.
5 When all the fluid has drained (this may take
quite some time) clean the drain plug, then
refit it together with a new seal and tighten it
securely.
6 Place a funnel with a fine mesh screen in
the dipstick tube, and fill the transmission with
1•24Every 30 000 miles or three years
25.13 The crankcase ventilation system foam filter is located in the air cleaner housing on Zetec engines25.5 Crankcase ventilation system filter on CVH engines
24.20 Air cleaner inlet and flap valve onthe CVH engine
A Flap open (cool air inlet closed)
B Warm air inlet
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the specified type of fluid. It is essential that
no dirt is introduced into the transmission
during this operation.
7Depending on the extent to which the fluid
was allowed to drain, it is possible that the
amount of fluid required when filling the
transmission may be more than the specified
amount (see “Lubricants, fluids and tyre
pressures” ). However, due to fluid remaining in
the system, it is more likely that less than the
specified amount will be required. Add about
half the specified amount, then run the engine
up to its normal operating temperature and
check the level on the dipstick. When the level
approaches the maximum mark, proceed as
detailed in Section 20 to check the level and
complete the final topping-up as described.
27 Handbrake adjustment
3
1 Chock the front wheels then jack up the
rear of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ). Fully
release the handbrake.
2 Check that the handbrake cables are
correctly routed and secured by the retaining
clips at the appropriate points under the vehicle.
3 The handbrake is checked for adjustment
by measuring the amount of movement
possible in the handbrake adjuster plungers.
These are located on the inside face of each
rear brake backplate (see illustration) . Thetotal movement of the two plungers combined
should be between 0.5 and 2.0 mm. If the
movement measured is outside of this
tolerance, the handbrake is in need of
adjustment. Adjustment is made altering the
position of the in-line cable adjuster sleeve.
4
When adjustment to the handbrake is
necessary, a new adjustment sleeve locking
pin will be required, and this must therefore
be obtained before making the adjustment.
5 To adjust the handbrake, first ensure that it
is fully released, then firmly apply the
footbrake a few times to ensure that the rear
brake adjustment is taken up by the automatic
adjusters. Extract the locking pin from
the adjuster sleeve (see illustration), then
turn the sleeve to set the combined move-
ment of the plungers within the tolerance range specified (0.5 to 2.0 mm). Turn the
locking nut by hand as tight as is possible
(two clicks) against the adjustment sleeve.
Now grip the locknut with a suitable wrench,
and turn it a further two clicks (maximum).
6
Secure the adjustment by inserting the new
lock pin.
7 Check that the operation of the handbrake
is satisfactory, then lower the vehicle to the
ground, apply the handbrake and remove the
chocks from the front wheels.
28 Front wheel alignment check
4
Refer to Chapter 10, Section 29.
Every 30 000 miles or three years1•25
27.5 Handbrake cable adjuster locking
pin (A), locknut (B) and adjuster sleeve (C)27.3 Handbrake adjustment plunger
located on the inside face of each rear brake backplate
1
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
Every 40 000 miles
29 Timing belt renewal
4
Refer to Chapter 2, Part B or C as
applicable.
Every 60 000 miles
30 Fuel filter renewal
1
Warning: Petrol is extremely
flammable, so extra precautions
must be taken when working on
any part of the fuel system. Do
not smoke, or allow open flames or bare
light bulbs, near the work area. Also, do
not work in a garage if a natural gas-type appliance with a pilot light is present.
While performing any work on the fuel system, wear safety glasses, and have a
suitable (Class B) fire extinguisher on
hand. If you spill any fuel on your skin,
rinse it off immediately with soap and
water.
1
On fuel injection engines, an in-line fuel
filter is provided in the fuel pump outlet line.
The filter is located in the engine compartment
either below and behind the battery, or on the
left-hand side of the engine compartment
bulkhead. The renewal procedure is the same
for both locations. The filter performs a vital
role in keeping dirt and other foreign matter
out of the fuel system, and so must be renewed at regular intervals, or whenever you
have reason to suspect that it may be
clogged. It is always unpleasant working
under a vehicle - pressure-washing or hosing
clean the underbody in the filter’s vicinity will
make working conditions more tolerable, and
will reduce the risk of getting dirt into the fuel
system.
2
Depressurise the fuel system as described
in the relevant Part of Chapter 4.
3 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1), then position
a suitable container beneath the fuel filter to
catch escaping fuel. Have a rag handy to soak
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2C
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
General
Engine type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . Four-cylinder, in-line, double overhead camshafts
Engine code:1.6 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . L1G
1.8 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . RDB or RQC
Capacity:
1.6 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 1597 cc
1.8 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 1796 cc
Bore:
1.6 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 76.0 mm
1.8 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 80.6 mm
Stroke - all models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . 88.0 mm
Compression ratio: 1.6 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 10.3:1
1.8 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 10.0:1
Firing order . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . 1-3-4-2 (No 1 cylinder at timing belt end)
Direction of crankshaft rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clockwise (seen from right-hand side of vehicle)
Cylinder head
Hydraulic tappet bore inside diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28.395 to 28.425 mm
Camshafts and hydraulic tappets
Camshaft bearing journal diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25.960 to 25.980 mm
Camshaft bearing journal-to-cylinder head running clearance . . . . . . . 0.020 to 0.070 mm
Camshaft endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . 0.080 to 0.220 mm
Lubrication
Engine oil type/specification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See “Lubricants, fluids and tyre pressures”
Engine oil capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . See “Lubricants, fluids and tyre pressures”
Oil pressure: Idling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.3 to 2.5 bar
At 4000 rpm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . 3.7 to 5.5 bars
Oil pump clearances . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . Not specified
Chapter 2 Part C:
Zetec engine in-car repair procedures
Auxiliary drivebelt check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Camshaft oil seals - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Camshafts and hydraulic tappets - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 11
Compression test - description and interpretation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Crankshaft oil seals - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Crankshaft pulley - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Cylinder head - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Cylinder head cover - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Engine oil and filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Engine oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . “Weekly Checks”Engine/transmission mountings - inspection and renewal . . . . . . . . 16
Flywheel/driveplate - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . 17
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . 1
Oil pump - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Sump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Timing belt - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Timing belt covers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Timing belt tensioner and sprockets - removal, inspection
and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 9
Top Dead Centre (TDC) for No 1 piston - locating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Valve clearances - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
2C•1
Specifications Contents
Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience Fairly easy,
suitable
for beginner with
some experience Fairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,
suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanic Very difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321
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fitted with three piston rings: two
compression rings and an oil control ring.
After manufacture, the cylinder bores and
piston skirts are measured and classified into
three grades, which must be carefully
matched together, to ensure the correct
piston/cylinder clearance; no oversizes are
available to permit reboring.The inlet and exhaust valves are each
closed by coil springs; they operate in guides
which are shrink-fitted into the cylinder head,
as are the valve seat inserts. Both camshafts are driven by the same
toothed timing belt, each operating eight
valves via self-adjusting hydraulic tappets,
thus eliminating the need for routine checking
and adjustment of the valve clearances. Each
camshaft rotates in five bearings that are line-
bored directly in the cylinder head and the
(bolted-on) bearing caps; this means that the
bearing caps are not available separately from
the cylinder head, and must not be
interchanged with caps from another engine. The water pump is bolted to the right-hand
end of the cylinder block, inboard of the
timing belt, and is driven with the power
steering pump and alternator by a flat
“polyvee”-type auxiliary drivebelt from the
crankshaft pulley.
When working on this engine, note that
Torx-type (both male and female heads) and
hexagon socket (Allen head) fasteners are
widely used; a good selection of bits, with the
necessary adapters, will be required, so that
these can be unscrewed without damage and,
on reassembly, tightened to the torque
wrench settings specified. Lubrication is by means of an eccentric-
rotor trochoidal pump, which is mounted on
the crankshaft right-hand end, and draws oil
through a strainer located in the sump. The
pump forces oil through an externally-
mounted full-flow cartridge-type filter - on
some versions of the engine, an oil cooler is
fitted to the oil filter mounting, so that clean oil
entering the engine’s galleries is cooled by the
main engine cooling system.
Repair operations possible with
the engine in the car
The following work can be carried out with
the engine in the car:
a) Compression pressure - testing.
b) Cylinder head cover - removal and
refitting.
c) Timing belt covers - removal and refitting.
d) Timing belt - renewal.
e) Timing belt tensioner and sprockets - removal and refitting.
f) Camshaft oil seals - renewal.
g) Camshafts and hydraulic tappets - removal and refitting.
h) Cylinder head - removal and refitting.
i) Cylinder head and pistons - decarbonising.
j) Sump - removal and refitting.
k) Crankshaft oil seals - renewal.
l) Oil pump - removal and refitting. m)
Flywheel/driveplate - removal and
refitting.
n) Engine/transmission mountings - removal and refitting.
Note: It is possible to remove the pistons and
connecting rods (after removing the cylinder
head and sump) without removing the engine.
However, this is not recommended. Work of
this nature is more easily and thoroughly
completed with the engine on the bench, as
described in Chapter 2D.
2 Compression test -
description and interpretation
2
Refer to Section 2 in Part A of this Chapter.
3 Top Dead Centre (TDC) for No 1 piston - locating
2
1Top dead centre (TDC) is the highest point
of the cylinder that each piston reaches as the
crankshaft turns. Each piston reaches its TDC
position at the end of its compression stroke,
and then again at the end of its exhaust
stroke. For the purpose of engine timing, TDC
on the compression stroke for No 1 piston is
used. No 1 cylinder is at the timing belt end of
the engine. Proceed as follows.
2 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
3 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ). Remove
the right-hand roadwheel.
4 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt cover (see
Chapter 1) to expose the crankshaft pulley
and timing marks.
5 Fit a spanner onto the crankshaft pulley
bolt, and turn the crankshaft in its normal
direction of rotation (clockwise, viewed from
the pulley end). 6
Note the two pairs of notches in the inner
and outer rims of the crankshaft pulley. In the
normal direction of crankshaft rotation the first
pair of notches are irrelevant to the vehicles
covered in this manual, while the second pair
indicate TDC when aligned with the rear edge
of the raised mark on the sump. Rotate the
crankshaft clockwise until the second pair of
notches align with the edge of the sump mark;
use a straight edge extended out from the
sump if greater accuracy is required (see
illustrations) .
7 Nos 1 and 4 cylinders are now at TDC, one
of them on the compression stroke. Remove
the oil filler cap; if No 4 cylinder exhaust cam
lobe is pointing to the rear of the vehicle and
slightly downwards, it is No 1 cylinder that is
correctly positioned. If the lobe is pointing
horizontally forwards, rotate the crankshaft
one full turn (360º) clockwise until the pulley
notches align again, and the lobe is pointing
to the rear and slightly down. No 1 cylinder
will then be at TDC on the compression
stroke.
8 Once No 1 cylinder has been positioned at
TDC on the compression stroke, TDC for any
of the other cylinders can then be located by
rotating the crankshaft clockwise 180º at a
time and following the firing order (see
Specifications).
9 With the engine set at No 1 piston on TDC
compression, refit the drivebelt cover and the
roadwheel, then lower the vehicle and refit the
spark plugs.
4 Cylinder head cover -
removal and refitting
1
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Remove the air inlet components as
necessary for access as described in the
Chapter 4D.
3 Disconnect the accelerator cable from the
throttle linkage as described in Chapter 4D.
4 On models equipped with power steering,
release the high pressure fluid pipe from the
Zetec engine in-car repair procedures 2C•3
3.6b . . . use a straight edge extended out from the sump (arrowed) if greater
accuracy is required3.6a Do not use crankshaft pulley’s first
pair of notches “A” - align second pair of
notches “B” with raised rib on sump “C” . . .
2C
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
Turning the engine will be
easier if the spark plugs are
removed first - see Chapter 1.
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