distributor FORD FIESTA 1989 Service Repair Manual

Maintenance – component location1•5
1 Engine oil filler cap
2 Engine oil level dipstick
3 Cooling system expansion tank
4 Brake fluid reservoir
5 Windscreen/tailgate washer fluid reservoircap
6 Battery
7 Vehicle identification plate
8 Thermostat housing
9 Pre-heat tube
10 Timing belt cover
11 Distributor
12 Fuel filter
13 Heater blower motor cover
14 Windscreen wiper motor mounting bracket
15 Jack and wheelbrace retaining bolt
16 Top of suspension strut mounting
assembly
17 EEC IV engine management module cover
18 CFi unit
19 Fuel injector
20 Fuel pressure regulator
21 Throttle plate control motor
22 Carbon canister
23 Manifold absolute pressure sensor
24 Ignition module
1.1 litre HCS carburettor engine (air cleaner removed for clarity)
1
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
1.4 litre CVH CFi fuel injection engine (air cleaner removed for clarity)
1 Engine oil filler cap
2 Engine oil level dipstick
3 Cooling system expansion tank
4 Brake fluid reservoir
5 Windscreen/tailgate washer fluid reservoir
cap
6 Battery
7 Vehicle identification plate
8 Thermostat housing
9 Radiator cooling fan thermal switch multi- plug
10 Alternator
11 Starter motor solenoid
12 CTX automatic transmission fluid level
dipstick
13 Exhaust heatshield/airbox
14 Brake pressure control valves
15 Top of suspension strut mounting
assembly
16 Carburettor
17 Fuel feed hose
18 Anti-dieselling (fuel-cut off) solenoid
connection
19 Throttle kicker
20 Throttle kicker control solenoid
21 Ignition module
22 Heater blower motor cover
23 Windscreen wiper motor mounting bracket
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1•6Maintenance – component location
1.6 litre (XR2i) CVH EFi fuel injection engine
1595Ford Fiesta Remake1 Engine oil filler cap
2 Engine oil level dipstick
3 Cooling system expansion tank
4 Brake fluid reservoir
5 Windscreen/tailgate washer fluid reservoir
cap
6 Battery
7 Vehicle identification plate
8 Thermostat housing
9 Timing belt cover
10 Top of suspension strut mounting
assembly
11 Windscreen wiper motor mounting bracket
12 Jack and wheelbrace retaining bolt
13 Distributorless (E-DIS) ignition coil
14 Fuel filter
15 Air cleaner
16 Air inlet duct
17 Idle speed control valve
18 Fuel pressure regulator
19 Throttle housing
20 Upper section of inlet manifold
21 Intake air temperature sensor
22 Fuel trap
23 EEC IV engine management module cover
24 Manifold absolute pressure sensor
25 Ignition module
1.8 litre (XR2i) Zetec SEFi fuel injection engine
1 Engine oil filler cap
2 Engine oil level dipstick
3 Cooling system expansion tank
4 Braking system fluid reservoir
5 Windscreen/tailgate washer fluid reservoir
cap
6 Battery
7 VIN plate
8 Thermostat housing
9 Timing belt cover
10 Top of suspension strut mounting
assembly
11 Windscreen wiper motor mounting bracket
12 Jack and wheelbrace retaining bolt
13 Distributorless (E-DIS) ignition coil
14 Fuel filter
15 Air cleaner
16 Air inlet duct
17 Idle speed control valve
18 Fuel pressure regulator
19 Throttle housing
20 Inlet manifold
21 Throttle position sensor
22 Fuel system pressure release/test point
23 EEC IV engine management module cover
24 Mass air flow sensor
25 Ignition module
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if nothing worse. If the outer electrode is not
exactly over the centre electrode, bend it gently
to align them. Special spark plug gap adjusting
tools are available from motor accessory shops,
or from certain spark plug manufacturers.
14Before fitting the spark plugs, check that
the threaded connector sleeves at the top of
the plugs are tight, and that the plug exterior
surfaces and threads are clean. Brown
staining on the porcelain, immediately above
the metal body, is quite normal, and does not
necessarily indicate a “leak” between the
body and insulator.
15 Apply a smear of copper-based grease or
anti-seize compound to the threads of each
plug, and screw them in by hand where
possible. Take extra care to enter the plug
threads correctly, as the cylinder head is of
aluminium alloy.
16 When each spark plug is started correctly
on its threads, screw it down until it just seats
lightly, then tighten it to the specified torque
wrench setting. If a torque wrench is not
available - and this is one case where the use of
a torque wrench is strongly recommended -
tighten each spark plug through no more than
1/4 of a turn (CVH and PTE engines) or 1/16 of a
turn (HCS and Zetec engines) after it seats. HCS
and Zetec engines are fitted with taper-seat
spark plugs, identifiable by not having a sealing
washer, and these in particular should NEVER
be overtightened - their tapered seats mean
they are almost impossible to remove if abused.
17 Reconnect the spark plug (HT) leads in
their correct order, using a twisting motion on
the boot until it is firmly seated on the end of
the spark plug and on the cylinder head cover.
Spark plug (HT) lead, distributor
cap and rotor arm check
18 The spark plug (HT) leads should be
checked whenever the plugs themselves are renewed. Start by making a visual check of
the leads while the engine is running. In a
darkened garage (make sure there is
ventilation) start the engine and observe each
lead. Be careful not to come into contact with
any moving engine parts. If there is a break in
the lead, you will see arcing or a small spark
at the damaged area.
19
The spark plug (HT) leads should be
inspected one at a time, to prevent mixing up
the firing order, which is essential for proper
engine operation. Each original lead should
be numbered to identify its cylinder. If the
number is illegible, a piece of tape can be
marked with the correct number, and
wrapped around the lead (the leads should be
numbered 1 to 4, with No 1 lead nearest the
timing belt end of the engine). The lead can
then be disconnected.
20 Check inside the boot for corrosion, which
will look like a white crusty powder. Clean this
off as much as possible; if it is excessive, or if
cleaning leaves the metal connector too badly
eroded to be fit for further use, the lead must
be renewed. Push the lead and boot back
onto the end of the spark plug. The boot
should fit tightly onto the end of the plug - if it
doesn’t, remove the lead and use pliers
carefully to crimp the metal connector inside
the boot until the fit is snug.
21 Using a clean rag, wipe the entire length
of the lead to remove built-up dirt and grease. Once the lead is clean, check for burns,
cracks and other damage. Do not bend the
lead sharply, because the conductor might
break.
22 Disconnect the lead from the ignition coil
by pressing together the plastic retaining
catches (where fitted) and pulling the end
fitting off the coil terminal. Check for corrosion
and for a tight fit. If a meter with the correct
measuring range is available, measure the
resistance of the disconnected lead from its
coil connector to its spark plug connector. If
the resistance recorded for any of the leads
exceeds the value specified, all the leads
should be renewed as a set. Refit the lead to
the coil, noting that each coil terminal is
marked with its respective cylinder number,
so that there is no risk of mixing up the leads
and upsetting the firing order.
23 Inspect the remaining spark plug (HT)
leads, ensuring that each is securely fastened
at the distributor cap or ignition coil and spark
plug when the check is complete. If any sign
of arcing, severe connector corrosion, burns,
cracks or other damage is noticed, obtain new
spark plug (HT) leads, renewing them as a set.
If new spark plug leads are to be fitted,
remove and refit them one at a time, to avoid
mix-ups in the firing order. 24
On models with distributor ignition
systems, refer to Chapter 5B and remove the
distributor cap then thoroughly clean it inside
and out with a dry lint-free rag.
25 Examine the HT lead segments inside the
cap. If they appear badly burned or pitted
renew the cap. Also check the carbon brush
in the centre of the cap, ensuring that it is free
to move and stands proud of its holder. Make
sure that there are no sign of cracks or black
“tracking” lines running down the inside of the
cap, which will also mean renewal if evident.
26 Inspect the rotor arm checking it for
security and also for signs of deterioration as
described above.
27 Refit the cap as described in Chapter 5B
on completion.
22 Idle speed control valve cleaning and maintenance
1
Note: The idle speed control valve may be
mounted on the air cleaner, on the engine
compartment bulkhead, or on the side of the inlet
manifold according to valve make and year of
manufacture. Valves manufactured by Weber are
mounted on the air cleaner and only these valves
require the periodic maintenance described
below. Bulkhead and inlet manifold mounted
valves are manufactured by Hitachi and are
maintenance free. Refer to the warning note in
Section 1 of Chapter 4C before proceeding.
1 Remove the valve as described in Chap-
ter 4C, Section 14.
2 Immerse the valve head in a suitable
container filled with clean petrol, and allow it
to soak for approximately three minutes.
3 Clean the valve bore, slots and piston with
petrol, using a suitable lint-free cloth, then
gently move the piston up and down in its
bore using a small screwdriver (see
illustration) . Ensure that no cloth particles
enter the bore, and do not use the slots to
move the piston.
4 Rinse the valve again with clean petrol, then
dry it using an air line (or other source of
compressed air).
Warning: Wear eye protection
when using compressed air!
5 Clean the mating faces of the valve and the
air filter housing then refit as described in
Chapter 4C, Section 14.
1•20Every 20 000 miles or two years
22.3 Gently move the idle speed control
valve piston up and down in its bore using
a small screwdriver (1.6 litre EFi engine)
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
It’s often difficult to insert spark plugs
into their holes without cross-threading
them. To avoid this possibility, fit a
short piece of rubber hose over the end
of the spark plug. The flexible hose
acts as a universal joint, to help align
the plug with the plug hole. Should the
plug begin to cross-thread, the hose
will slip on the spark plug, preventing
thread damage.
If new spark plug leads are tobe fitted, remove the leads
one at a time and fit each
new lead in exactly the same
position as the old one.
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inspecting carefully for any wear grooves,
pitting or scoring around the teeth.
21Refit the thrustwasher with its curved side
facing outwards, followed by the Woodruff
key.
22 Lubricate the oil seal and the crankshaft
sprocket with engine oil, then position the
sprocket on the crankshaft with its thrust face
facing outwards.
23 Using the auxiliary drivebelt pulley and its
retaining bolt, draw the sprocket fully into
position on the crankshaft. Remove the
pulley.
24 Refit the timing belt as described in
Section 8.
10 Camshaft oil seal - renewal
3
1Remove the camshaft sprocket as
described in the previous Section.
2 The oil seal is now accessible for removal.
Note its direction of fitting, then using a
suitable screwdriver or a tool with a hooked
end to lever and extract the seal from its
housing (but take care not to damage the
housing with the tool) (see illustration).
3 Check that the housing is clean before
fitting the new seal. Lubricate the lips of the
seal and the running faces of the camshaft
with clean engine oil. Carefully locate the seal
over the camshaft, and drive it squarely into
position using a suitable tube or a socket (see
illustration) . An alternative method of fitting is to draw it squarely into position using the old
sprocket bolt and a suitable distance piece.
4
With the seal fully inserted in its housing,
refit the camshaft sprocket as described in
the previous Section.
11 Camshaft, rocker arms and tappets - removal, inspection
and refitting
3
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Refer to the appropriate earlier Sections in
this Chapter, and remove the timing belt
upper cover and the rocker cover.
3 On carburettor models, refer to Chapter 4A
and remove the fuel pump. On models equipped with a distributor ignition system,
refer to Chapter 5B and remove the distributor.
On PTE engines, refer to Chapter 4D and
remove the camshaft position sensor.
4
On models equipped with distributorless
ignition system, detach, unbolt and remove
the ignition coil, its support bracket and the
interference capacitor from the end of the
cylinder head, as described in Chapter 5B.
5 Undo the retaining nuts and remove the
guides, rocker arms and spacer plates (see
illustrations) . Keep the respective
components in their original order of fitting by
marking them with a piece of numbered tape,
or by using a suitable sub-divided box.
6 Withdraw the hydraulic tappets, again
keeping them in their original fitted sequence.
The tappets should be placed in an oil bath
while removed (see illustrations) .
7 Unbolt and remove the lower cover beneath
CVH and PTE engine in-car repair procedures 2B•7
11.5a Undo the rocker arm retaining nut . . .
10.3 Using a socket to tap the camshaft
oil seal into place
11.6b Store tappets in clearly-marked
container filled with oil to prevent oil loss11.6a Removing a hydraulic tappet
11.5c . . . followed by the rocker arm . . .11.5b . . . withdraw the guide . . .
11.5d . . . and spacer plate
10.2 Camshaft front oil seal removal
2B
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the crankshaft pulley, then with a spanner
engaged on the crankshaft pulley bolt, turn
the crankshaft over to set the engine at TDC
for No 1 piston on compression (see Sec-
tion 3).
8Remove the camshaft sprocket as
described in Section 9.
9 Extract the camshaft oil seal as described
in Section 10.
10 Before removing the camshaft and its
thrust plate, check and take note of the
amount of camshaft endfloat, using a dial
gauge or feeler gauges. With the camshaft
endfloat measured and noted, unscrew the
two retaining bolts and then extract the
camshaft thrust plate from its pocket at the
front end of the cylinder head (see
illustrations) .
11 On models with a distributorless ignition system, at the rear end of the cylinder head,
pierce the camshaft blanking plug with a
suitable tool, and then lever it out of its
aperture
(see illustrations) .
12 Withdraw the camshaft from the cylinder
head at the rear (distributor/ignition coil) end
(see illustration) . Take care not to damage
the bearings in the cylinder head as the shaft
is withdrawn.
Inspection
13 Clean and inspect the various
components removed for signs of excessive
wear.
14 Examine the camshaft bearing journals
and lobes for damage or wear. If evident, a
new camshaft will be required.
15 Compare the previously-measured
camshaft endfloat with that specified. If the endfloat is outside of the specified tolerance,
the thrust plate must be renewed.
16
The camshaft bearing bore diameters in
the cylinder head should be measured and
checked against the tolerances specified. A
suitable measuring gauge will be required for
this, but if this is not available, check for
excessive movement between the camshaft
journals and the bearings. If the bearings are
found to be unacceptably worn, a new
cylinder head is the only answer, as the
bearings are machined directly into the head.
17 It is seldom that the hydraulic tappets are
badly worn in the cylinder head bores but
again, if the bores are found to be worn
beyond an acceptable level, the cylinder head
must be renewed.
18 If the contact surfaces of the cam lobes
show signs of depression or grooving, they
cannot be renovated by grinding, as the
hardened surface will be removed and the
overall length of the tappet(s) will be reduced.
The self-adjustment point of the tappet will be
exceeded as a result, so that the valve
adjustment will be affected, resulting in noisy
operation. Therefore, renewal of the camshaft
is the only remedy in this case.
19 Inspect the rocker arm contact surfaces
for excessive wear, and renew if necessary
(see illustration) .
Refitting
20Refitting the camshaft and its associated
components is a reversal of the removal
procedure, but note the following special
points.
21 Lubricate the camshaft bearings, the
camshaft and the thrust plate with clean
engine oil prior to fitting them. As the
camshaft is inserted, take care not to damage
the bearings in the cylinder head. Tighten the
camshaft thrust plate retaining bolts to the
specified torque. When the thrust plate bolts
are tightened, make a final check to ensure
that the camshaft endfloat is as specified.
22 A new front oil seal must be fitted after the
camshaft has been installed (see previous
Section for details). It will also be necessary to
insert a new blanking plug into the rear end of
the cylinder head (where applicable). Drive it
squarely into position so that it is flush with
the head (see illustration) .
2B•8 CVH and PTE engine in-car repair procedures
11.22 Driving a new blanking plug into
position11.19 Inspect the rocker arm contactpoints indicated for excessive wear11.12 Withdraw the camshaft from the cylinder head
11.11b . . . and lever it out of the cylinder
head11.11a Pierce the centre of the blankingplug . . .
11.10b . . . and lift out the camshaft thrust plate11.10a Undo the two retaining bolts(arrowed) . . .
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23Refer to the procedure in Section 9 when
refitting the camshaft sprocket.
24 Refit and tension the timing belt as
described in Section 8.
25 Lubricate the hydraulic tappets with
hypoid oil before refitting them into their
original locations in the cylinder head.
26 Lubricate and refit the rocker arms and
guides in their original sequence, use new
nuts and tighten them to the specified torque
setting. It is essential, before each rocker arm
is installed and its nut tightened, that the
respective cam follower is positioned at its
lowest point (in contact with the cam base
circle). Turn the cam (using the crankshaft
pulley bolt) as necessary to achieve this.
27 Refit the rocker cover as described in
Section 4.
28 Refit the remaining components with
reference to the relevant Sections in this
Chapter or elsewhere in the manual.
29 On completion, reconnect the battery
negative lead.
12 Cylinder head -
removal and refitting
4
Removal
Note: The following procedure describes
removal and refitting of the cylinder head
complete with inlet and exhaust manifolds. If
wished, the manifolds may be removed first,
as described in the relevant Part of Chapter 4,
and the cylinder head then removed on its
own.
1 On fuel-injected engines, depressurise the
fuel system as described in Chapter 4B or 4C.
2 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
3 Refer to Chapter 1 and drain the cooling
system. 4
Remove the rocker cover as described in
Section 4.
5 Disconnect the accelerator and choke
cables as applicable (refer to the relevant Part
of Chapter 4).
6 Loosen off the retaining clips and
disconnect the upper coolant hose, the
expansion tank hose and the heater hose
from the thermostat housing. Also disconnect
the heater hose from the inlet manifold.
7 On CFi models, disconnect the heated
coolant hose from the injector unit.
8 On EFi and SEFi models, disconnect the
following (see illustration) :
a) The MAP sensor vacuum hose from the inlet manifold upper section (EFi models).
b) The carbon canister solenoid valve
vacuum hose from the inlet manifold
upper section.
c) The oil trap vacuum hose at the “T” piece
connector.
d) The brake servo vacuum hose from the
inlet manifold upper section by pressing
in the clamp ring and simultaneously
pulling the hose free from the connection.
e) The coolant hose from the injector
intermediate flange and at the thermostat
housing.
9 Disconnect the following fuel supply/return
hoses. Plug the hoses and connections, to
prevent fuel spillage and the possible ingress
of dirt.
a) On carburettor models, disconnect the fuel supply hose from the pump and the
return hose from the carburettor.
b) On CFi models, pull free and detach the
fuel return hose from the injection unit
and the supply hose at the connector. c) On EFi and SEFi models, detach the fuel
supply hose from the fuel rail or at the
quick-release coupling (where fitted).
Disconnect the return line from the fuel
pressure regulator or at the quick-release
coupling.
10 On CFi models, disconnect the brake
servo vacuum hose from the inlet manifold,
the MAP sensor vacuum hose from the
sensor, and the carbon canister connecting
hose at the injection unit (see illustration).
11 Noting their connections and routings,
disconnect the wiring connectors or multi-
plugs from the following items, where
applicable:
a) Temperature gauge sender unit.
b) DIS ignition coil.
c) Coolant temperature sensor.
d) Cooling fan thermostatic switch.
e) Carburettor.
f) Radio earth lead.
g) Road speed sensor.
h) Fuel injector wiring loom.
i) Intake air temperature sensor.
12 On CFi models, detach the throttle control
motor, throttle position sensor and injector
lead multi-plugs (see illustration) .
13 On models with a distributorless ignition
system, where still attached, disconnect the
HT leads from the DIS ignition coil and the
spark plugs. On models with a distributor
ignition system, remove the distributor as
described in Chapter 5B.
14 Position the engine with No 1 piston at
TDC on compression as described in Sec-
tion 3.
15 Loosen off the timing belt tensioner
retaining bolts, and move the tensioner to
release the tension from the drivebelt.
Support the belt, and move it clear of the
camshaft sprocket.
16 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ).
17 Unscrew the retaining nuts and detach
the exhaust downpipe from the manifold.
Remove the gasket; note that a new one must
CVH and PTE engine in-car repair procedures 2B•9
12.12 Wiring connections to be detached on the 1.4 litre CFi fuel injected engine
A Coolant temperature sensor
B Throttle plate control motor
C Throttle position sensor
D Injector
12.10 Vacuum hose to the MAP sensor (A)
and the brake servo unit (B) on the 1.4 litre
CFi fuel-injected engine
12.8 Vacuum hoses and throttle cableconnections on the 1.6 litre EFi fuel injected engine
A Hose to MAP sensor
B Crankcase ventilation breather hose
C Throttle cable and clip
D Oil trap hose and T-piece connector
E Hose to oil trap
F Hose to carbon canister solenoid valve
2B
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
Whenever you disconnect
any vacuum lines, coolant or
emissions hoses, wiring
connectors and fuel lines,
always label them clearly, so that they
can be correctly reassembled. Masking
tape and/or a touch-up paint applicator
work well for marking items. Take
instant photos, or sketch the locations
of components and brackets.
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7Refer to the relevant Part of Chapter 4 for
details, and disconnect the accelerator cable
from the throttle linkage and support/adjuster
bracket. Where applicable, also disconnect
the choke cable. Position the cable(s) out of
the way.
8 On carburettor models, disconnect the fuel
supply hose from the fuel pump, and the
return hose from the carburettor.
9 On CFi models, detach the fuel hose at the
injector/pressure regulator unit, and the return
line, by compressing the couplings whilst
pulling the hoses free from their connections.
On EFi and SEFi models, unscrew the union
nut to detach the fuel line from the fuel rail;
release the retaining clip to detach the return
pipe from the pressure regulator. Plug the
exposed ends of the hoses and connections,
to prevent fuel spillage and the ingress of dirt.
Position the hoses out of the way.
10 Press the clamp ring inwards, and
simultaneously pull free the brake servo hose from the inlet manifold. Position it out of the
way.
11
On CFi and EFi models, detach the
vacuum hose from the MAP sensor, and the
hose between the carbon canister and the fuel
injection unit (see illustration) .
12 Note their connections and routings, and
detach the following wiring connections,
according to model (see illustrations):
a) Coolant temperature sender unit.
b) Oil pressure switch.
c) E-DIS ignition coil unit. or distributor.
d) Coolant temperature sensor.
e) Cooling fan thermostatic switch.
f) Carburettor.
g) Earth lead (radio).
h) Reversing light switch (from transmission).
i) Crankshaft position sensor.
j) Earth leads from the transmission and engine.
13 Disconnect the wiring at the following
additional items specific to fuel injection
models only.
a) Inlet air temperature sensor.
b) Vehicle speed sensor.
c) Throttle plate control motor (CFi models).
d) Throttle position sensor.
e) Injector harness connector.
f) Idle speed control valve (EFi and SEFi models).
14 Unscrew the retaining bolt and detach the
bracket locating the wiring and coolant hoses
above the transmission. 15
Disconnect the speedometer drive cable
from the transmission.
16 On manual transmission models,
disconnect the clutch cable from the release
lever at the transmission (see Chapter 6 for
details). Position the cable out of the way.
17 On vehicles fitted with the anti-lock
braking system, refer to Chapter 9 and release
the left-hand modulator from its mounting
bracket, without disconnecting the rigid brake
pipes or return hose. Tie the modulator
securely to the bulkhead.
18 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ). Allow
sufficient clearance under the vehicle to
withdraw the engine and transmission units
from under the front end.
19 On XR2i models, refer to Chapter 10 and
remove the front suspension crossmember.
20 Where applicable on catalytic converter-
equipped vehicles, release the multi-plug from
the bracket and disconnect the wiring
connector from the oxygen sensor in the
exhaust downpipe.
21 Undo the three retaining bolts, detach the
exhaust downpipe from the manifold, and
collect the gasket from the flange joint. Now
disconnect the exhaust downpipe from the
rest of the system, and remove it from the
vehicle.
22 Where fitted, undo the four retaining nuts
and two bolts securing the front part of the
exhaust heat shield to the floor, then remove
the heat shield.
23 Refer to Chapter 5A and remove the
alternator and starter motor. On models with
power steering, refer to Chapter 10 and
remove the power steering pump.
Manual transmission models
24 On 4-speed models, select 2nd gear; on
5-speed models, select 4th gear, to assist in
correct adjustment of the gearchange during
reassembly. If it is likely that the gear lever will
be moved from this position before refitting,
mark the relative position of the transmission
shift rod and the selector shaft before
separating them. Undo the clamp bolt, and
then pull free and detach the shift rod from the
selector shaft (see illustration) .
Engine removal and overhaul procedures 2D•9
4.12b . . . the oil pressure switch . . .4.12a Disconnect the wiring at the
temperature gauge sender unit . . .4.11 Vacuum hose to MAP sensor (A) and brake servo (B)
4.24 Manual transmission shift rod clamp
bolt (A), stabiliser-to-transmission bolt (B)
and washer (C)4.12c . . . and the crankshaft position sensor
2D
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
Whenever you disconnect
any vacuum lines, coolant or
emissions hoses, wiring
connectors and fuel lines,
always label them clearly, so that they
can be correctly reassembled. Masking
tape and/or a touch-up paint applicator
work well for marking items. Take
instant photos, or sketch the locations
of components and brackets.
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http://vnx.su

25On automatic transmission models, clean
around the unions, then disconnect the fluid
pipes from the transmission. Plug the
openings in the transmission and the pipe
unions after removal.
26 Refer to Chapter 10 and remove the front
suspension crossmember.
27 Unscrew the nuts to disconnect the
exhaust system front downpipe from the
manifold. Undo the nuts securing the catalytic
converter to the rear part of the exhaust
system, and remove the converter and
downpipe assembly.
28 On vehicles fitted with the anti-lock braking
system, refer to Chapter 9 and release the
right-hand modulator from its mounting
bracket without disconnecting the rigid brake
pipes or return hose. Tie the modulator
securely to the bulkhead. Additionally, undo
the three bolts securing the modulator bracket.
29 Disconnect both anti-roll bar links from
their respective suspension struts, and both
track rod end ball joints from their spindle
carriers (see Chapter 10).
30 Unscrew the retaining nut and withdraw
the Torx-type clamp bolt securing the lower
suspension arm to the spindle carrier on each
side.
31 Insert a suitable lever between the right-
hand driveshaft inner joint and the
transmission housing, and prise free the
driveshaft from the transmission; be prepared
for oil spillage from the transmission case
through the vacated driveshaft aperture. As it
is being prised free, simultaneously pull the
roadwheel outwards on that side to enable the
driveshaft inboard end to separate from the
transmission. Once it is free, suspend and
support the driveshaft from the steering gear,
to prevent unnecessary strain being placed on
the driveshaft joints.
32 Insert a suitable plastic plug (or if
available, an old driveshaft joint), into the
transmission driveshaft aperture, to
immobilise the gears of the differential unit.
33 Proceed as described above in
paragraphs 31 and 32, and disconnect the
left-hand driveshaft from the transmission.
34 Remove the oil filter, referring to Chapter 1
if necessary.
35 Connect a suitable lift hoist and sling to
the engine, connecting to the lift eyes. When
securely connected, take the weight of the
engine/transmission unit so that the tension is
relieved from the mountings.
36 Unbolt the engine rear right-hand
mounting from the body (one bolt in the wheel
arch, one nut in the engine compartment),
then unbolt the engine front right-hand
mounting from the alternator mounting
bracket. Unbolt the transmission bearer from
the underbody.
37 The engine/transmission unit should now
be hanging on the hoist only, with all
components which connect it to the rest of
the vehicle disconnected or removed, and
secured well clear of the unit. Make a final
check that this is the case. 38
Lower the engine/transmission to the
ground, and withdraw it from under the
vehicle.
39 Referring to the relevant Part of Chapter 7,
separate the transmission from the engine.
40 While the engine/transmission is removed,
check the mountings; renew them if they are
worn or damaged. Similarly, check the
condition of all coolant and vacuum hoses
and pipes (see Chapter 1); components that
are normally hidden can now be checked
properly, and should be renewed if there is
any doubt at all about their condition. Where
the vehicle is fitted with manual transmission,
take the opportunity to overhaul the clutch
components (see Chapter 6). It is regarded by
many as good working practice to renew the
clutch assembly as a matter of course,
whenever major engine overhaul work is
carried out. Check also the condition of all
components (such as the transmission oil
seals) disturbed on removal, and renew any
that are damaged or worn.
Refitting
41 Refitting is a reversal of removal, however
note the following additional points:
a) Refer to the applicable Chapters and Sections as for removal.
b) Fit new spring clips to the grooves in the
inboard end of the right- and left-hand
driveshaft joints. Lubricate the splines
with transmission oil prior to fitting.
c) Renew the exhaust flange gaskets when reconnecting the exhaust. Ensure that all
wires are routed clear of the exhaust
system, and that the heat shields are
securely and correctly fitted.
d) Ensure that all earth lead connections are
clean and securely made.
e) Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified
torque.
f) Fit a new oil filter, and refill the engine and transmission with oil, with reference to
Chapter 1.
g) Refill the cooling system with reference to
Chapter 1.
h) Bleed the power steering system with reference to Chapter 10.
42 When engine and transmission refitting is
complete, refer to the procedures described
in Section 19 before restarting the engine.
6 Engine overhaul - preliminary information
It is much easier to dismantle and work on
the engine if it is mounted on a portable
engine stand. These stands can often be hired
from a tool hire shop. Before the engine is
mounted on a stand, the flywheel/driveplate
should be removed so that the stand bolts
can be tightened into the end of the cylinder
block/crankcase. If a stand is not available, it is possible to
dismantle the engine with it suitably supported on a sturdy, workbench or on the
floor. Be careful not to tip or drop the engine
when working without a stand.
If you intend to obtain a reconditioned
engine, all ancillaries must be removed first, to
be transferred to the replacement engine (just
as they will if you are doing a complete engine
overhaul yourself). These components include
the following:
a) Alternator/power steering pump and
mounting brackets.
b) DIS/E-DIS ignition coil unit (and mounting
bracket), distributor, HT leads and spark
plugs.
c) The thermostat and housing cover.
d) Carburettor/fuel injection system
components.
e) Inlet and exhaust manifolds.
f) Oil filter.
g) Fuel pump.
h) Engine mountings.
i) Flywheel/driveplate.
j) Water pump.
Note: When removing the external
components from the engine, pay close
attention to details that may be helpful or
important during refitting. Note the fitted
positions of gaskets, seals, washers, bolts and
other small items. If you are obtaining a “short” engine
(cylinder block/crankcase, crankshaft, pistons
and connecting rods all assembled), then the
cylinder head, timing chain/belt (together with
tensioner, tensioner and idler pulleys and
covers) sump and oil pump will have to be
removed also. If a complete overhaul is planned, the
engine can be dismantled in the order given
below, referring to Part A, B or C of this
Chapter unless otherwise stated.
a) Inlet and exhaust manifolds.
b) Timing chain/belt, tensioner and
sprockets.
c) Cylinder head.
d) Flywheel/driveplate.
e) Sump.
f) Oil pump.
g) Pistons (with connecting rods).
h) Crankshaft.
i) Camshaft and tappets (HCS engines).
7 Cylinder head - dismantling
4
Note:New and reconditioned cylinder heads
are available from the manufacturers, and from
engine overhaul specialists. Due to the fact
that some specialist tools are required for the
dismantling and inspection procedures, and
new components may not be readily available,
it may be more practical and economical for
the home mechanic to purchase a
reconditioned head, rather than to dismantle,
inspect and recondition the original head.
1 Remove the cylinder head as described in
Part A, B or C of this Chapter (as applicable).
2D•12 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
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1 General information andprecautions
General information
The fuel system consists of a fuel tank
(mounted under the body, beneath the rear
seats), fuel hoses, an electric fuel pump
mounted in the fuel tank, and a central fuel
injection (CFi) system. Fuel is supplied from the tank by an integral
electric fuel pump (and combined fuel gauge
sender unit). The fuel is passed through an in-
line filter within the engine compartment, then
to the fuel injection unit. The fuel is maintained
at the required operating pressure by a
pressure regulator unit. The CFi unit itself is a relatively simple
device when compared with a conventional
carburettor. Fuel is injected by a single
solenoid valve (fuel injector) which is mounted
centrally on top of the unit. It is this feature
which gives the system CFi (or Central Fuel
injection) its name (see illustration).The injector is energised by an electrical
signal sent from the EEC IV engine
management module. When energised, the
injector pintle is lifted from its seat, and
atomised fuel is delivered into the inlet
manifold under pressure. The electrical
signals take two forms of current - a high
current to open the injector, and a low current
to hold it open for the duration required. At
idle speed, the injector is pulsed at every
other inlet stroke, rather than with every
stroke as during normal operation.
The air-to-fuel mixture ratio is regulated by
the EEC IV module, based on inputs from the
various engine sensors. No adjustments to
the fuel mixture are possible.
The throttle plate control motor (mounted
on the side of the CFi unit) regulates the idle
speed by reacting to the signals sent by the
EEC IV module. The signals are calculated by
the values and information provided from the
engine sensors. When the throttle position
sensor indicates that the throttle is closed, the
module enters the idle speed mode or
dashpot mode (according to engine speed).
The module maintains the idle speed at a constant value, making minor adjustments as
necessary for different loads and conditions.
The base idle speed can only be adjusted by a
dealer or fuel injection specialist with the
necessary equipment to link up to the engine
management module.
To prevent the engine from running on (or
dieseling) when it is switched off, the EEC IV
module sends a signal to the throttle plate
control motor, to fully close the throttle plate
and return it to its preset position ready for
restarting. When the ignition is switched on
to restart the engine, the motor repositions
the throttle plate to the position required
according to the prevailing conditions. The EEC IV module is the heart of the entire
engine management system, controlling the
fuel injection, ignition and emissions control
systems. The module receives information
from various sensors to determine engine
temperature, speed and load, and the
quantity of air entering the engine. The
sensors also inform the module of throttle
position, inlet air temperature and exhaust gas
oxygen content. All the information supplied
to the module is computed and compared
with pre-set values stored in it’s memory, to
determine the required period of injection. Information on crankshaft position and
engine speed is generated by the distributor
on pre-1990 CVH engine models, or by a
crankshaft position sensor on all other
models. The inductive head of the crankshaft
position sensor runs just above the engine
flywheel and scans a series of 36 protrusions
on the flywheel periphery. As the crankshaft
rotates, the sensor transmits a pulse to the
system’s ignition module every time a
protrusion passes it. There is one missing
protrusion in the flywheel periphery at a point
corresponding to 90º BTDC. The ignition
module recognises the absence of a pulse
from the crankshaft position sensor at this
point to establish a reference mark for
crankshaft position. Similarly, the time interval
between absent pulses is used to determine
engine speed. This information is then fed to
the EEC IV module for further processing. Engine temperature information is supplied
by the coolant temperature sensor. This
component is an NTC (Negative Temperature
Coefficient) thermistor - that is, a semi-
conductor whose electrical resistance
decreases as its temperature increases. It
provides the EEC IV module with a constantly-
varying (analogue) voltage signal,
corresponding to the temperature of the
engine coolant. This is used to refine the
calculations made by the module, when
determining the correct amount of fuel
required to achieve the ideal air/fuel mixture
ratio. Inlet air temperature information is supplied
by the inlet air temperature sensor. This
component is also an NTC thermistor - see
the previous paragraph - providing the EEC IV
module with a signal corresponding to the
temperature of air passing into the engine.
4B•2 Fuel system - central fuel injection engines
1.3 Exploded view of the CFi unit
1 Fuel injector assembly
2 Fuel pressure regulator
assembly 3 Fuel feed connector
4 Intake air temperature
sensor 5 Throttle-plate control
motor
6 Throttle position sensor
7 Fuel injector wiring
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Torque wrench settingsNmlbf ft
Idle speed control valve bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 to 5 3 to 4
Fuel pressure regulator bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 to 12 6 to 9
Fuel rail bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . 20 to 26 15 to 19
Inlet air temperature sensor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 to 25 15 to 18
Inlet manifold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . 16 to 20 12 to 15
Oxygen sensor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . 50 to 70 37 to 52
Intercooler-to-radiator bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 to 6 3 to 5
Boost control valve screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.2 to 2.7 1.5 to 2
Exhaust manifold heatshield bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 to 26 16 to 19
Exhaust manifold-to-engine nuts (non-Turbo models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 to 17 11 to 13
Exhaust manifold-to-engine nuts (Turbo models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 to 31 21 to 23
Exhaust manifold-to-turbocharger bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 to 28 15 to 21
Turbocharger-to-exhaust downpipe nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 to 47 26 to 35
Turbocharger cooling pipe banjo union bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 to 29 17 to 22
Turbocharger oil feed and return line couplings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 to 20 11 to 15
4C•2 Fuel system - electronic fuel injection engines
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
1 General information and
precautions
General information
The fuel system consists of a fuel tank
(mounted under the body, beneath the rear
seats), fuel hoses, an electric fuel pump
mounted in the fuel tank, and an electronic
fuel injection system. Fuel is supplied under pressure from the
fuel pump to the fuel distributor rail mounted
on top of the inlet manifold (see illustration).
The fuel rail acts as a pressurised fuel
reservoir for the fuel injectors. The electro-
mechanical injectors have only “on” or “off”
positions, the volume of fuel being injected to meet the engine operating conditions being
determined by the length of time that the
injectors are opened. The volume of fuel
required for one power stroke is determined
by the EEC IV engine management module,
and is divided by two equal amounts. The first
half of the required volume is injected into the
static air ahead of the inlet valve one complete
engine revolution before the inlet valve is due
to open. After one further revolution, the inlet
valve opens and the required fuel volume is
injected into the air flow being drawn into the
cylinder. The fuel will therefore be consistently
injected to two inlet valves simultaneously at a
particular crankshaft position.
The volume of air drawn into the engine is
governed by the air filter unit and other
variable operating factors. These variables are
assessed by the EEC IV module and the corresponding signals are produced to
actuate the injectors accordingly.
The engine base idle speed can be
adjusted (if required), by turning the adjuster
screw (covered by a tamperproof cap) in the
throttle housing. Provision for adjusting the
fuel mixture is made by the mixture screw in
the potentiometer unit mounted on the
bulkhead. An idle speed control valve, itself controlled
by the EEC-IV engine management module,
stabilises the engine idle speed under all
conditions by the opening of an auxiliary air
passage which bypasses the throttle. Apart
from a base-idle speed adjustment, no
adjustments to the operational idle speed can
be made. The EEC IV module is the heart of the entire
engine management system, controlling the
fuel injection, ignition and emissions control
systems. The module receives information
from various sensors to determine engine
temperature, speed and load, and the
quantity of air entering the engine. The
sensors also inform the module of throttle
position, inlet air temperature and, on models
with catalytic converters, exhaust gas oxygen
content. All the information supplied to the
module is computed and compared with
pre-set values stored in it’s memory, to
determine the required period of injection.
Information on crankshaft position and
engine speed is generated by a crankshaft
position sensor. The inductive head of the
sensor runs just above the engine flywheel
and scans a series of 36 protrusions on the
flywheel periphery. As the crankshaft
rotates, the sensor transmits a pulse to the
system’s ignition module every time a
protrusion passes it. There is one missing
protrusion in the flywheel periphery at a point
corresponding to 90° BTDC. The ignition
module recognises the absence of a pulse
from the crankshaft position sensor at this
point to establish a reference mark for
crankshaft position. Similarly, the time interval
between absent pulses is used to determine
engine speed. This information is then fed to
the EEC IV module for further processing.
1.2 General view of the 1.6 litre EFi fuel injection system arrangement\
1 Throttle housing
2 Upper inlet manifold section
3 Wiring loom connector
4 Intake air temperature sensor 5 Wiring harness ducting
6 Fuel rail
7 Lower section of inlet
manifold
8 Cylinder head 9 Fuel injector
10
Fuel pressure regulator
11 Vacuum hose
12 Air inlet duct
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