four wheel drive FORD FIESTA 1989 Service Repair Manual

The maintenance schedule for these
vehicles, based on the manufacturer’s
recommendations, is as described below -
note that the schedule starts from the
vehicle’s date of registration. These are the
minimum maintenance intervals recommen-
ded by the factory for Fiestas driven daily, but
subjected only to “normal” use. If you wish to
keep your vehicle in peak condition at all
times, you may wish to perform some of these
procedures even more often. Because
frequent maintenance enhances the
efficiency, performance and resale value of
your vehicle, we encourage you to do so. If
your usage is not “normal”, shorter intervals are also recommended - the most important
examples of these are noted in the schedule.
These shorter intervals apply particularly if
you drive in dusty areas, tow a caravan or
trailer, sit with the engine idling or drive at low
speeds for extended periods (ie, in heavy
traffic), or drive for short distances (less
than four miles) in below-freezing
temperatures.
When your vehicle is new, it should be
serviced by a Ford dealer service department
to protect the factory warranty. In many
cases, the initial maintenance check is done
at no cost to the owner. Note that this first
free service (carried out by the selling dealer 1500 miles or 3 months after delivery),
although an important check for a new
vehicle, is not part of the regular maintenance
schedule, and is therefore not mentioned
here.
It should be noted that for the 1992 model
year, for all models except RS Turbo, the
service time/mileage intervals were
extended by the manufacturer to the periods
shown in this schedule. Although these
intervals can be applied retrospectively,
owners of earlier vehicles may notice a
discrepancy between this schedule and the
one shown in the Service Guide supplied
with the vehicle.
1•4Maintenance schedule
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
Every 250 miles (400 km) or weekly
m
m Refer to “Weekly Checks” .
Every 5000 miles (8000 km) or
6 months, whichever occurs first
Note: Frequent oil and filter changes are good for the engine. We
recommend changing the oil at the mileage specified here, or at least
twice a year if the mileage covered is less.
m m Renew the engine oil and filter (Section 3).
Every 10 000 miles (16 000 km) or
12 months, whichever occurs first
Carry out all operations listed above, plus the following:
m mCheck the auxiliary drivebelt (Section 4).
m
m Check under the bonnet for fluid leaks and hose condition
(Section 5).
m
m Check the condition of all engine compartment wiring (Sec-
tion 6).
m
m Check the valve clearance adjustment - HCS engines only
(Section 7).
m
m Check the manual transmission oil level (Section 8).
m
m Check the engine idle speed and mixture - HCS and CVH
engines only, where possible (Section 9).
m
m Check the steering, suspension and roadwheels (Section 10).
m
m Check the driveshaft rubber gaiters and CV joints (Section 11).
m
m Check the exhaust system (Section 12).
m
m Check the underbody, and all fuel/brake lines (Section 13).
m
m Check the brake system (Section 14).
m
m Check the security of all roadwheel nuts (Section 15).
m
m Check the doors, tailgate and bonnet, and lubricate their hinges
and locks (Section 16).
m
m Check the seat belts (Section 17).
m
m Check the condition of the bodywork, paint and exterior trim
(Section 18).
m
m Road test (Section 19).
m
m Check the automatic transmission fluid level (Section 20).
Every 20 000 miles (32 000 km) or
two years, whichever occurs first
Carry out all operations listed above, plus the following:
m mRenew the spark plugs and check the condition of the HT leads
- all engines except Zetec (Section 21).
m
m Clean the idle speed control valve (Weber type) - CVH EFi
engines only (Section 22).
Every 30 000 miles (48 000 km) or
three years, whichever occurs first
Carry out all operations listed above, plus the following:
m m Renew the coolant (Section 23).
m
m Renew the air cleaner filter element and check the air cleaner
temperature control system - carburettor engines only (Sec-
tion 24).
m m Check the emission control systems (Section 25).
m
m Renew the spark plugs and check the condition of the HT leads
- Zetec engines (Section 21).
m
m Renew the automatic transmission fluid (Section 26).
m
m Check the handbrake adjustment (Section 27).
m
m Check the front wheel alignment (Section 28).
Note: If the vehicle is used regularly in dusty or polluted conditions,
the air cleaner filter element should be renewed at more frequent
intervals.
Every 40 000 miles
m
m Renew the timing belt - CVH and PTE engines only (Section 29).
Every 60 000 miles
m
mRenew the timing belt - Zetec engines only (Section 29).
m
m Renew the fuel filter (Section 30).
Every three years
(regardless of mileage)
m m Renew the brake fluid (Section 31).
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point at the engine to the end of the tailpipe.
Ideally, this should be done on a hoist, where
unrestricted access is available; if a hoist is
not available, raise and support the vehicle on
axle stands.
2Check the pipes and connections for
evidence of leaks, severe corrosion, or
damage. Make sure that all brackets and
rubber mountings are in good condition, and
tight; if any of the mountings are to be
renewed, ensure that the replacements are of
the correct type (see illustration) . Leakage at
any of the joints or in other parts of the system
will usually show up as a black sooty stain in
the vicinity of the leak. Note: Exhaust sealants
should not be used on any part of the exhaust
system upstream of the catalytic converter -
even if the sealant does not contain additives
harmful to the converter, pieces of it may
break off and foul the element, causing local
overheating.
3 At the same time, inspect the underside of
the body for holes, corrosion, open seams,
etc, which may allow exhaust gases to enter
the passenger compartment. Seal all body
openings with silicone or body putty.
4 Rattles and other noises can often be
traced to the exhaust system, especially the
rubber mountings. Try to move the system,
silencer(s) and catalytic converter. If any
components can touch the body or
suspension parts, secure the exhaust system
with new mountings.
5 Check the running condition of the engine
by inspecting inside the end of the tailpipe;
the exhaust deposits here are an indication
of the engine’s state of tune. The inside of the
tailpipe should be dry, and should vary in
colour from dark grey to light grey/brown; if it
is black and sooty, or coated with white
deposits, the engine is in need of a thorough
fuel system inspection.
13 Underbody and fuel/brake line check
1
1With the vehicle raised and supported on
axle stands or over an inspection pit,
thoroughly inspect the underbody and wheel
arches for signs of damage and corrosion. In
particular, examine the bottom of the side
sills, and any concealed areas where mud can
collect. Where corrosion and rust is evident,
press and tap firmly on the panel with a
screwdriver, and check for any serious
corrosion which would necessitate repairs. If
the panel is not seriously corroded, clean
away the rust, and apply a new coating of
underseal. Refer to Chapter 11 for more
details of body repairs.
2 At the same time, inspect the PVC-coated
lower body panels for stone damage and
general condition.
3 Inspect all of the fuel and brake lines on the
underbody for damage, rust, corrosion and
leakage. Also make sure that they are correctly supported in their clips. Where
applicable, check the PVC coating on the
lines for damage.
14 Brake check
2
Note:
For detailed photographs of the brake
system, refer to Chapter 9.
1 The work described in this Section should
be carried out at the specified intervals, or
whenever a defect is suspected in the braking
system. Any of the following symptoms could
indicate a potential brake system defect:
a) The vehicle pulls to one side when the brake pedal is depressed.
b) The brakes make scraping or dragging
noises when applied.
c) Brake pedal travel is excessive.
d) The brake fluid requires repeated topping-
up.
2 A thorough inspection should be made to
confirm the thickness of the linings, as
follows.
Front brakes
3 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ).
4 For better access to the brake calipers,
remove the wheels.
5 Look through the inspection window in the
caliper, and check that the thickness of the
friction lining material on each of the pads is
not less than the recommended minimum
thickness given in the Specifications. Note:
Bear in mind that the lining material is normally
bonded to a metal backing plate.
6 If it is difficult to determine the exact
thickness of the pad linings, or if you are at all
concerned about the condition of the pads,
then remove them from the calipers for further
inspection (refer to Chapter 9).
7 Check the remaining brake caliper in the
same way.
8 If any one of the brake pads has worn down to, or below, the specified limit,
all fourpads
must be renewed as a set.
9 Measure the thickness of the discs with a
micrometer, if available, to make sure that they
still have service life remaining. If any disc is
thinner than the specified minimum thickness,
renew it (refer to Chapter 9). In any case,
check the general condition of the discs. Look
for excessive scoring and discolouration
caused by overheating. If these conditions
exist, remove the relevant disc and have it
resurfaced or renewed (refer to Chapter 9).
10 Before refitting the wheels and lowering
the car, check all brake lines and hoses (refer
to Chapter 9). In particular, check the flexible
hoses in the vicinity of the calipers, where
they are subjected to most movement. Bend
them between the fingers (but do not actually
bend them double, or the casing may be
damaged) and check that this does not reveal
previously-hidden cracks, cuts or splits.
Rear brakes
11 Chock the front wheels then jack up the
rear of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ).
12 For better access, remove the rear
wheels.
13 To check the brake shoe lining thickness
without removing the brake drums, prise the
rubber plugs from the backplates, and use an
electric torch and mirror to inspect the linings
of the leading brake shoes. Check that the
thickness of the lining material on the brake
shoes is not less than the recommendation
given in the Specifications.
14 If it is difficult to determine the exact
thickness of the brake shoe linings, or if you
are at all concerned about the condition of the
shoes, then remove the rear drums for a more
comprehensive inspection (refer to Chap-
ter 9).
15 With the drum removed, check the shoe
return and hold-down springs for correct
installation, and check the wheel cylinders for
leakage of brake fluid. Check the friction
surface of the brake drums for scoring and
discoloration. If excessive, the drum should
be resurfaced or renewed.
16 Before refitting the wheels, check all
brake lines and hoses (refer to Chapter 9). On
completion, apply the handbrake and check
that the rear wheels are locked. The
handbrake also requires periodic adjustment,
and if its travel seems excessive, refer to
Section 27.
15 Roadwheel nut tightness check
1
1Apply the handbrake.
2 Remove the wheel covers, using the flat
end of the wheelbrace supplied in the tool kit
(on some models it will be necessary to
unscrew the retaining bolts with a special
key).
Every 10 000 miles or 12 months1•17
12.2 Ensure that the exhaust system
rubber mountings replacements are of the correct type - their colour is a good guide. Those nearest to the catalytic converterare more heat-resistant than the others
1
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3Check that the roadwheel nuts are tightened
to the specified torque wrench setting.
4 Refit the wheel covers.
16 Door, tailgate and bonnet
check and lubrication
1
1Check that the doors and tailgate/boot lid
close securely. Check that the bonnet safety
catch operates correctly. Check the operation
of the door check straps.
2 Lubricate the hinges, door check straps,
the striker plates and the bonnet catch
sparingly with a little oil or grease.
17 Seat belt check
1
1 Check the seat belts for satisfactory
operation and condition. Inspect the webbing
for fraying and cuts. Check that they retract
smoothly and without binding into their reels.
2 Check that the seat belt mounting bolts are
tight, and if necessary tighten them to the
specified torque wrench settings as given in
Chapter 11.
18 Bodywork, paint and exterior trim check
1
1The best time to carry out this check is after
the car has been washed so that any surface
blemish or scratch will be clearly evident and
not hidden by a film of dirt.
2 Starting at one front corner check the
paintwork all around the car, looking for minor
scratches or more serious dents. Check all
the trim and make sure that it is securely
attached over its entire length.
3 Check the security of all door locks, door
mirrors, badges, bumpers, front grille and
wheel trim. Anything found loose, or in need of
further attention should be done with reference
to the relevant Chapters of this manual.
4 Rectify any problems noticed with the
paintwork or body panels as described in
Chapter 11.
19 Road test
1
Check the operation and
performance of the braking
system
1 Make sure that the vehicle does not pull to
one side when braking, and that the wheels
do not lock prematurely when braking hard.
2 Check that there is no vibration through the
steering when braking. 3
Check that the handbrake operates
correctly, without excessive movement of the
lever, and that it holds the vehicle stationary
on a slope.
4 Test the operation of the brake servo unit
as follows. With the engine switched off,
depress the footbrake four or five times to
exhaust the vacuum, then hold the pedal
depressed. Start the engine, and there should
be a noticeable “give” in the brake pedal as
vacuum builds up. Allow the engine to run for
at least two minutes, and then switch it off. If
the brake pedal is depressed again, it should
be possible to detect a hiss from the servo as
the pedal is depressed. After about four or five
applications, no further hissing should be
heard, and the pedal should feel considerably
firmer.
Steering and suspension
5 Check for any abnormalities in the steering,
suspension, handling or road “feel”.
6 Drive the vehicle, and check that there are
no unusual vibrations or noises.
7 Check that the steering feels positive, with
no excessive sloppiness or roughness, and
check for any suspension noises when
cornering and driving over bumps.
Drivetrain
8 Check the performance of the engine,
transmission and driveshafts.
9 Check that the engine starts correctly, both
when cold and when hot.
10 Listen for any unusual noises from the
engine and transmission.
11 Make sure that the engine runs smoothly
when idling, and that there is no hesitation
when accelerating.
12 On manual transmission models, check
that all gears can be engaged smoothly
without noise, and that the gear lever action is
not abnormally vague or “notchy”.
13 On automatic transmission models, make
sure that the drive seems smooth without
jerks or engine speed “flare-ups”. Check that
all the gear positions can be selected with the
vehicle at rest. If any problems are found, they
should be referred to a Ford dealer.
14 Listen for a metallic clicking sound from
the front of the vehicle, as the vehicle is driven
slowly in a circle with the steering on full-lock.
Carry out this check in both directions. If a
clicking noise is heard, this indicates wear in a
driveshaft joint, in which case renew the joint
if necessary.
Clutch
15 Check that the clutch pedal moves
smoothly and easily through its full travel, and
that the clutch itself functions correctly, with
no trace of slip or drag. If the movement is
uneven or stiff in places, check that the cable
is routed correctly, with no sharp turns.
16 Inspect both ends of the clutch inner
cable, both at the transmission end and inside
the car, for signs of wear and fraying.
Instruments and electrical
equipment
17 Check the operation of all instruments
and electrical equipment.
18 Make sure that all instruments read
correctly, and switch on all electrical equipment
in turn, to check that it functions properly.
20 Automatic transmission fluid level check
1
1The level of the automatic transmission fluid
should be carefully maintained. Low fluid level
can lead to slipping or loss of drive, while
overfilling can cause foaming, loss of fluid and
transmission damage.
2 The transmission fluid level should only be
checked when the transmission is hot (at its
normal operating temperature). If the vehicle
has just been driven over 10 miles (15 miles in
a cold climate), and the fluid temperature is 60
to 70ºC, the transmission is hot.
Caution: If the vehicle has just been driven
for a long time at high speed or in city
traffic in hot weather, or if it has been
pulling a trailer, an accurate fluid level
reading cannot be obtained. In these
circumstances, allow the fluid to cool
down for about 30 minutes.
3 Park the vehicle on level ground, apply the
handbrake, and start the engine. While the
engine is idling, depress the brake pedal and
move the selector lever through all the gear
positions three times, beginning and ending in
“P”.
4 Allow the engine to idle for one minute, then
(with the engine still idling) remove the
dipstick from its tube. Note the condition and
colour of the fluid on the dipstick.
5 Wipe the fluid from the dipstick with a clean
rag, and re-insert it into the filler tube until the
cap seats.
6 Pull the dipstick out again, and note the
fluid level. The level should be between
the “MIN” and “MAX” marks. If the level is
on the “MIN” mark, stop the engine, and add
the specified automatic transmission fluid
through the dipstick tube, using a clean funnel
if necessary. It is important not to introduce
dirt into the transmission when topping-up.
7 Add the fluid a little at a time, and keep
checking the level as previously described
until it is correct. The difference between the
“MIN” and “MAX” marks on the dipstick is
approximately 0.4 litres.
8 The need for regular topping-up of the
transmission fluid indicates a leak, which
should be found and rectified without delay.
9 The condition of the fluid should also be
checked along with the level. If the fluid on the
dipstick is black or a dark reddish-brown
colour, or if it has a burned smell, the fluid
should be changed. If you are in doubt about
the condition of the fluid, purchase some new
fluid, and compare the two for colour and smell.
1•18Every 10 000 miles or 12 months
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2A
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
General
Engine type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . Four-cylinder, in-line overhead valve
Engine code:1.0 litre carburettor models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . TLB
1.1 litre carburettor models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . GUE or GUD
1.1 litre CFi fuel injection models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . G6A
1.3 litre carburettor models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . JBC
1.3 litre CFi fuel injection models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . J6B
Capacity: 1.0 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 999 cc
1.1 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 1118 cc
1.3 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 1297 cc
Bore:
1.0 and 1.1 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68.68 mm
1.3 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 73.96 mm
Stroke:
1.0 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 67.40 mm
1.1 and 1.3 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75.48 mm
Compression ratio:
Carburettor models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . 9.5:1
CFi fuel injection models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.8:1
Firing order . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . 1-2-4-3 (No 1 cylinder at timing chain end)
Direction of crankshaft rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clockwise (seen from right-hand side of vehicle)
Valves
Valve clearance (cold): Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.20 mm
Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . 0.30 mm
Chapter 2 Part A:
HCS engine in-car repair procedures
Auxiliary drivebelt check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Compression test - description and interpretation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Crankshaft oil seals - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Crankshaft pulley - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Cylinder head - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Cylinder head rocker cover - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Cylinder head rocker gear - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . 6
Engine oil and filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Engine oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See
“Weekly Checks”
Engine/transmission mountings - inspection and renewal . . . . . . . . 15 Flywheel - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . 1
Oil pump - dismantling, inspection and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Oil pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Sump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Timing chain cover - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Timing chain, sprockets and tensioner - removal, inspection
and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 10
Top Dead Centre (TDC) for No 1 piston - locating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Valve clearances - checking and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
2A•1
Specifications Contents
Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience Fairly easy,
suitable
for beginner with
some experience Fairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,
suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanic Very difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321
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Lubrication
Engine oil type/specification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See “Lubricants, fluids and tyre pressures”
Engine oil capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . See “Lubricants, fluids and tyre pressures”
Oil pressure: At idle speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . 0.60 barsAt 2000 rpm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . 1.50 bars
Oil pump clearances: Outer rotor-to-body . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . 0.14 to 0.26 mm
Inner rotor-to-outer rotor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.051 to 0.127 mm
Rotor endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . 0.025 to 0.06 mm
Torque wrench settingsNm lbf ft
Camshaft thrust plate bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 4
Camshaft sprocket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. 1813
Crankshaft pulley bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . 115 85
Rocker shaft pedestal bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4332
Flywheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . 6749
Sump: Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . 7 5
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7
Stage 3 (with engine warm) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7
Oil pressure switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . 1410
Cylinder head bolts (may be re-used once only): Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . 3022
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten a further 90º
Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten a further 90º
Timing chain tensioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . 8 6
Timing chain cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . 9 7
Crankshaft rear oil seal housing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1813
Rocker cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . 5 4
Oil pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . . 1813
Oil pump cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . 9 7
Engine mountings: Engine mounting (right-hand):Bolt to body (in wheel arch) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 to 58 30 to 43
Nut to body (by suspension strut) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 to 58 30 to 43
Bracket to cylinder block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 to 72 40 to 53
Rubber insulator to bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 to 95 52 to 70
Transmission mounting fasteners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Refer to Chapter 7A or 7B
Note: Refer to Part D of this Chapter for remaining torque wrench settings.
2A•2 HCS engine in-car repair procedures
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
1 General information
How to use this Chapter
This Part of Chapter 2 is devoted to repair
procedures possible while the engine is still
installed in the vehicle, and includes only the
Specifications relevant to those procedures.
Similar information concerning the 1.4 and
1.6 litre CVH and PTE engines, and the 1.6
and 1.8 litre Zetec engines, will be found in
Parts B and C of this Chapter respectively.
Since these procedures are based on the
assumption that the engine is installed in the
vehicle, if the engine has been removed from
the vehicle and mounted on a stand, some
of the preliminary dismantling steps outlined
will not apply. Information concerning engine/transmission
removal and refitting, and engine overhaul, can
be found in Part D of this Chapter, which also
includes the Specifications relevant to those
procedures.
Engine description
The engine is an overhead valve, water-
cooled, four cylinder in-line design,
designated HCS (High Compression Swirl).
The engine is mounted transversely at the
front of the vehicle together with the
transmission to form a combined power unit. The crankshaft is supported in three or five
shell-type main bearings. The connecting rod
big-end bearings are also split shell-type, and
are attached to the pistons by interference-fit
gudgeon pins. Each piston is fitted with two
compression rings and one oil control ring. The camshaft, which runs on bearings
within the cylinder block, is chain-driven from
the crankshaft, and operates the valves via
pushrods and rocker arms. The valves are
each closed by a single valve spring, and
operate in guides integral in the cylinder head. The oil pump is mounted externally on the
crankcase, incorporates a full-flow oil filter,
and is driven by a skew gear on the camshaft.
On carburettor versions, the fuel pump is also
driven from the camshaft, via an eccentric
lobe.
Repair operations possible with
the engine in the car
The following work can be carried out with
the engine in the car:
a) Compression pressure - testing.
b) Cylinder head rocker cover - removal
and refitting.
c) Valve clearances - adjustment.
d) Rocker shaft assembly - removal,
inspection and refitting.
e) Cylinder head - removal and refitting
f) Cylinder head and pistons - decarbonising.
g) Crankshaft pulley - removal and refitting.
h) Crankshaft oil seals - renewal.
i) Timing chain, sprockets and tensioner -
removal, inspection and refitting.
j) Oil filter renewal.
k) Oil pump - removal and refitting.
l) Sump - removal and refitting.
m) Flywheel - removal, inspection and
refitting.
n) Engine/transmission mountings -
inspection and renewal.
Note: It is possible to remove the pistons and
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8Reassemble in the reverse order of
dismantling. Make sure that the “flat” on the
rear end of the rocker shaft is to the same side
as the rocker arm adjusting screws (closest to
the thermostat end of the cylinder head when
fitted) (see illustration) . This is essential for
the correct lubrication of the cylinder head
components.
9 Refit the rocker shaft assembly. As it is
fitted, ensure that the rocker adjuster screws
engage with their corresponding pushrods.
10 Refit the rocker shaft retaining bolts,
hand-tighten them and then tighten them to
the specified torque wrench setting. As they
are tightened, some of the rocker arms will
apply pressure to the ends of the valve stems,
and some of the rocker pedestals will not
initially be in contact with the cylinder head -
these should pull down as the bolts are
tightened to their specified torque. If for any
reason they do not, avoid the temptation to
overtighten in order to pull them into position;
loosen off the bolts, and check the cause of
the problem. It may be that the rocker adjuster
screws require loosening off in order to allow
the assembly to be tightened down as
required.
11 Adjust the valve clearances as described
in Section 5.
7 Cylinder head -
removal and refitting
3
Removal
Note: The following procedure describes
removal and refitting of the cylinder head
complete with inlet and exhaust manifolds. If
wished, the manifolds may be removed first,
as described in the relevant Part of Chapter 4,
and the cylinder head then removed on its
own.
1 On fuel injection engines, depressurise the
fuel system as described in Chapter 4, Part B.
2 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
3 Refer to Chapter 4A or 4B as applicable
and remove the air cleaner.
4 Refer to Section 4 and remove the rocker
cover. 5
Refer to Chapter 1 and drain the cooling
system.
6 Disconnect the hoses from the thermostat
housing.
7 Disconnect the heater (coolant) hoses from
the inlet manifold and CFi unit, where
applicable.
8 Disconnect the accelerator and choke
cables as applicable (see Chapter 4A or 4B).
9 Disconnect the vacuum and breather hoses
from the carburettor/CFi unit, and inlet
manifold as applicable.
10 Disconnect the fuel feed and return lines
at the carburettor, or at the quick-release
couplings, then unclip the fuel hoses from the
inlet manifold; use rag to soak up any spilt
fuel.
11 Disconnect the HT leads from the spark
plugs and the support bracket. Unscrew and
remove the spark plugs.
12 Disconnect the electrical leads from the
temperature gauge sender, radiator cooling
fan, the engine coolant temperature sender,
and the anti-run-on (anti-dieselling) valve at
the carburettor.
13 Disconnect the remaining wiring multi-
plugs from the engine sensors at the inlet
manifold and from the oxygen sensor (where
fitted) in the exhaust manifold or downpipe.
14 On vehicles equipped with a pulse-air
system, remove the pulse-air piping and filter
assembly as described in Chapter 4E.
15 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ).
16 Undo the retaining nuts and bolts, and
disconnect the exhaust downpipe from the
manifold. Remove the flange gasket. (Note
that both the gasket and the joint self-locking
nuts must be renewed.) To prevent the
exhaust system from being strained, tie the
downpipe up using strong wire or a length of
cord to support it. Lower the vehicle.
17 Undo the four retaining bolts and lift clear
the rocker gear assembly from the cylinder
head.
18 Lift out the pushrods. Keep them in order
of fitting by labelling them 1 to 8, starting from
the thermostat end of the cylinder head.
Alternatively, push them through a piece of
card in their fitted sequence.
19 Progressively unscrew and loosen off the
cylinder head retaining bolts in the reverse
sequence to that shown for tightening (see
illustration 7.27a). When they are all loosened off, remove the bolts, then lift the
cylinder head clear and remove the gasket. If
it is stuck, tap it upwards using a hammer and
block of wood. Do not try to turn it, as it is
located by dowels; make no attempt
whatsoever to prise it free using a screwdriver
inserted between the block and head faces.
The gasket must always be renewed; it should
be noted that the cylinder head retaining bolts
may be re-used, but only once. They should
be marked accordingly with a punch or paint
mark. If there is any doubt as to how many
times the bolts have been used, they must be
renewed.
20
To dismantle/overhaul the cylinder head,
refer to Part D of this Chapter. It is normal for
the cylinder head to be decarbonised and the
valves to be reground whenever the head is
removed.
Preparation for refitting
21 The mating faces of the cylinder head and
cylinder block must be perfectly clean before
refitting the head. Use a hard plastic or wood
scraper to remove all traces of gasket and
carbon; also clean the piston crowns. Take
particular care during the cleaning operations,
as aluminium alloy is easily damaged. Also,
make sure that the carbon is not allowed to
enter the oil and water passages - this is
particularly important for the lubrication
system, as carbon could block the oil supply
to the engine’s components. Using adhesive
tape and paper, seal the water, oil and bolt
holes in the cylinder block.
22 Check the mating surfaces of the cylinder
block and the cylinder head for nicks, deep
scratches and other damage. If slight, they
may be removed carefully with a file, but if
excessive, machining may be the only
alternative to renewal.
23 If warpage of the cylinder head gasket
surface is suspected, use a straight-edge to
check it for distortion. Refer to Part D of this
Chapter if necessary.
24 Clean the threads of the cylinder head
bolts or fit new ones (as applicable) and clean
out the bolt holes in the block. Screwing a bolt
into an oil-filled hole can (in extreme cases)
cause the block to fracture, due to the
hydraulic pressure.
Refitting
25 Check that the new cylinder head gasket
is the same type as the original, and that the
“TOP” (or “OBEN”) marking is facing
upwards. Locate the new cylinder head
HCS engine in-car repair procedures 2A•5
6.8 Flat on the rocker shaft (arrowed) to
same side as rocker arm adjusting screws
2A
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
Whenever you disconnect
any vacuum lines, coolant or
emissions hoses, wiring
connectors and fuel lines,
always label them clearly, so that they
can be correctly reassembled. Masking
tape and/or a touch-up paint applicator
work well for marking items. Take
instant photos, or sketch the locations
of components and brackets.
To prevent carbon entering
the gap between the pistons
and bores, smear a little
grease in the gap. After
cleaning each piston, use a small brush
to remove all traces of grease and
carbon from the gap, then wipe away
the remainder with a clean rag.
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(see illustration). Centralise the seal on the
shaft, then insert and tighten the housing
retaining bolts to the specified torque setting.
Refit the sump with reference to Section 11.
12 Check that the crankshaft rear flange
and the flywheel mating faces are clean, then
refit the flywheel as described in Section 16.
15 Engine/transmission mountings - inspection and
renewal
2
Inspection
1 The engine/transmission mountings seldom
require attention, but broken or deteriorated
mountings should be renewed immediately, or
the added strain placed on the driveline
components may cause damage or wear.
2 During the check, the engine/transmission
must be raised slightly, to remove its weight
from the mountings.
3 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ). Position
a jack under the sump, with a large block of
wood between the jack head and the sump,
then carefully raise the engine/transmission
just enough to take the weight off the
mountings.
4 Check the mountings to see if the rubber is
cracked, hardened or separated from the metal components. Sometimes, the rubber
will split right down the centre.
5
Check for relative movement between each
mounting’s brackets and the
engine/transmission or body (use a large
screwdriver or lever to attempt to move the
mountings). If movement is noted, lower the
engine and check-tighten the mounting
fasteners.
Renewal
6 The engine mountings can be removed if
the weight of the engine/transmission is
supported by one of the following alternative
methods.
7 Either support the weight of the assembly
from underneath using a jack and a suitable
piece of wood between the jack saddle and
the sump or transmission (to prevent
damage), or from above by attaching a hoist
to the engine. A third method is to use a
suitable support bar with end pieces which
will engage in the water channel each side of
the bonnet lid aperture. Using an adjustable hook and chain connected to the engine, the
weight of the engine and transmission can
then be taken from the mountings.
Engine right-hand mounting
8
Unscrew and remove the mounting side
bolt from under the right-hand wheel arch
(see illustration) .
9 Unscrew and remove the mounting
retaining nut and washer from the suspension
strut cup retaining plate (see illustration).
10 Undo the three bolts securing the
mounting unit to the cylinder block. The
mounting unit and bracket can then be
lowered from the engine (see illustration).
11 Unbolt and remove the mounting from its
support bracket.
Transmission bearer and mountings
12 Unscrew and remove the two nuts
securing the mountings (front and rear) to the
transmission bearer (see illustration).
13 Support the transmission bearer, then
undo and remove the four retaining bolts from
the floorpan, two at the front and two at the
2A•10 HCS engine in-car repair procedures
15.12 Exploded view of the transmission bearer mountings
15.10 Undo the three bolts securing the
mounting assembly to the cylinder block
and withdraw the mounting
15.9 Unscrew and remove the mountingretaining nut and washer from the
suspension strut cup retaining plate15.8 Unscrew and remove the engine
mounting side bolt (arrowed) from under the wheel arch14.11b Fitting the rear oil seal housing
with a new gasket in position on the rear face of the cylinder block
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2B
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
General
Engine type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . Four-cylinder, in-line overhead camshaft
Engine code:1.4 litre CVH engine: Carburettor models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. FUF or FUG
CFi fuel injection models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . F6E
1.4 litre PTE engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . F4A
1.6 litre CVH engine: Carburettor models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. LUH
EFi fuel injection models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . LJC or LJD
Turbo models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . LHA
Capacity:
1.4 litre CVH and PTE engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1392 cc
1.6 litre CVH engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . 1596 cc
Bore:
1.4 litre CVH and PTE engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.24 mm
1.6 litre CVH engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . 79.96 mm
Stroke:
1.4 litre CVH and PTE engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74.30 mm
1.6 litre CVH engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . 79.52 mm
Compression ratio:
1.4 litre CVH carburettor engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.5:1
1.4 litre CVH CFi fuel injection engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.5:1
1.4 litre PTE engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . 9.5:1
1.6 litre CVH engine: Carburettor models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. 9.5:1
EFi fuel injection models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.75:1
Turbo models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . 8.0:1
Firing order . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . 1-3-4-2 (No 1 cylinder at timing belt end)
Direction of crankshaft rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clockwise (seen from right-hand side of vehicle)
Chapter 2 Part B:
CVH and PTE engine in-car repair procedures
Auxiliary drivebelt check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Camshaft oil seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Camshaft, rocker arms and tappets - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 11
Compression test - description and interpretation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Crankshaft oil seals - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Crankshaft pulley - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Cylinder head - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Cylinder head rocker cover - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Engine oil and filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Engine oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See
“Weekly Checks”
Engine/transmission mountings - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 Flywheel/driveplate - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . 18
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . 1
Oil pump - dismantling, inspection and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Oil pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Sump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Timing belt - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Timing belt covers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Timing belt tensioner and sprockets - removal, inspection
and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 9
Top Dead Centre (TDC) for No 1 piston - locating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Valve clearances - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
2B•1
Specifications Contents
Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience Fairly easy,
suitable
for beginner with
some experience Fairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,
suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanic Very difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321
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1 General information
How to use this Chapter
This Part of Chapter 2 is devoted to repair
procedures possible while the engine is still
installed in the vehicle, and includes only the
Specifications relevant to those procedures.
Similar information concerning the 1.3 litre
HCS engine, and the 1.6 and 1.8 litre Zetec
engines, will be found in Parts A and C of this
Chapter respectively. Since these procedures
are based on the assumption that the engine
is installed in the vehicle, if the engine has
been removed from the vehicle and mounted
on a stand, some of the preliminary
dismantling steps outlined will not apply.
Information concerning engine/transmission
removal and refitting, and engine overhaul, can
be found in Part D of this Chapter, which also
includes the Specifications relevant to those
procedures.
Engine description
The engine is a four-cylinder, in-line
overhead camshaft type, designated CVH
(Compound Valve angle, Hemispherical
combustion chamber) or PTE (Pent roof, high
Torque, low Emission). The PTE engine was
introduced for 1994 and, apart from
modifications to the cylinder head, camshaft
and intake system, is virtually identical to the
CVH engine it replaces. The engine is
mounted transversely at the front of the
vehicle together with the transmission to form
a combined power unit. The crankshaft is supported in five split-
shell type main bearings within the cast-iron
crankcase. The connecting rod big-end
bearings are split-shell type, and the pistons
are attached by interference-fit gudgeon pins.
Each piston has two compression rings and
one oil control ring.
The cylinder head is of light alloy
construction, and supports the camshaft in five
bearings. Camshaft drive is by a toothed
composite rubber timing belt, which is driven by
a sprocket on the front end of the crankshaft.
The timing belt also drives the water pump,
which is mounted below the cylinder head. Hydraulic cam followers (tappets) operate the
rocker arms and valves. The tappets are
operated by pressurised engine oil. When a
valve closes, the oil passes through a port in the
body of the cam follower, through four grooves
in the plunger and into the cylinder feed
chamber. From the chamber, the oil flows to a
ball-type non-return valve and into the pressure
chamber. The tension of the coil spring causes
the plunger to press against the valve, and so
eliminates any free play. As the cam lifts the
follower, the oil pressure in the pressure
chamber is increased, and the non-return valve
closes off the port feed chamber. This in turn
provides a rigid link between the cam follower,
the cylinder and the plunger. These then rise as a unit to open the valve. The cam follower-to-
cylinder clearance allows the specified quantity
of oil to pass from the pressure chamber, oil only
being allowed past the cylinder bore when the
pressure is high during the moment of the valve
opening. When the valve closes, the escape of
oil will produce a small clearance, and no
pressure will exist in the pressure chamber. The
feed chamber oil then flows through the non-
return valve and into the pressure chamber, so
that the cam follower cylinder can be raised by
the pressure of the coil spring, eliminating free
play until the valve is operated again.
As wear occurs between the rocker arm
and the valve stem, the quantity of oil that
flows into the pressure chamber will be
slightly more than the quantity lost during the
expansion cycle of the cam follower.
Conversely, when the cam follower is
compressed by the expansion of the valve, a
slightly smaller quantity of oil will flow into the
pressure chamber than was lost. A rotor-type oil pump is mounted on the
timing cover end of the engine, and is driven
by a gear on the front end of the crankshaft. A
full-flow type oil filter is fitted, and is mounted
on the side of the crankcase.
Repair operations possible with
the engine in the car
The following work can be carried out with
the engine in the car:
a) Compression pressure - testing.
b) Rocker cover - removal and refitting.
c) Timing belt - removal, refitting and
adjustment.
d) Camshaft oil seal - renewal.
e) Camshaft - removal and refitting.
f) Cylinder head - removal and refitting.
g) Cylinder head and pistons - decarbonising.
h) Crankshaft pulley - removal and refitting.
i) Crankshaft oil seals - renewal.
j) Oil filter renewal.
k) Sump - removal and refitting.
l) Flywheel - removal, inspection and refitting.
m) Mountings - removal and refitting.
Note: It is possible to remove the pistons and
connecting rods (after removing the cylinder
head and sump) without removing the engine.
However, this is not recommended. Work of
this nature is more easily and thoroughly
completed with the engine on the bench, as
described in Chapter 2D.
2 Compression test -
description and interpretation
2
Refer to Section 2 in Part A of this Chap-
ter.
3 Top Dead Centre (TDC) for
No 1 piston - locating
2
1Top dead centre (TDC) is the highest point
of the cylinder that each piston reaches as the
crankshaft turns. Each piston reaches its TDC
position at the end of its compression stroke,
and then again at the end of its exhaust
stroke. For the purpose of engine timing, TDC
on the compression stroke for No 1 piston is
used. No 1 cylinder is at the timing belt end of
the engine. Proceed as follows.
2 Remove the upper timing belt cover as
described in Section 7.
3 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ).
4 Undo the retaining bolts, and remove the
cover from the underside of the crankshaft
pulley.
5 Fit a spanner onto the crankshaft pulley bolt,
and turn the crankshaft in its normal direction
of rotation (clockwise, viewed from the pulley
end) to the point where the crankshaft pulley
timing notch is aligned with the TDC (0) timing
mark on the timing belt cover.
6 Although the crankshaft is now in top dead
centre alignment, with piston Nos 1 and 4 at
the top of their stroke, the No 1 piston may
not be on its compression stroke. To confirm
that it is, check that the timing pointer on the
camshaft sprocket is exactly aligned with the
TDC mark on the front face of the cylinder
head (see illustrations) . If the pointer is not
aligned, turn the crankshaft pulley one further
CVH and PTE engine in-car repair procedures 2B•3
3.6b Camshaft sprocket timing mark
aligned with the TDC mark on the front
face of the cylinder head3.6a Crankshaft pulley notch (arrowed)aligned with the TDC (0) mark on the
timing belt cover
2B
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
Turning the engine will be
easier if the spark plugs are
removed first - see Chapter 1.
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be fitted on reassembly. Tie the downpipe up
to support it.
18Before it is released and removed, the
cylinder head must first have cooled down to
room temperature (about 20ºC).
19 Unscrew the cylinder head retaining bolts
progressively in the reverse order to that
shown for tightening (see illustration 12.28).
The cylinder head bolts must be discarded
and new bolts obtained for refitting the
cylinder head.
20 Remove the cylinder head complete with
its manifolds. If necessary, grip the manifolds
and rock it free from the location dowels on
the top face of the cylinder block. Do not
attempt to tap it sideways or lever between
the head and the block top face.
21 Remove the cylinder head gasket. This must
always be renewed; it is essential that the
correct type is obtained. Save the old gasket, so
that the identification marks (teeth) can be used
when ordering the new one (see illustration).
Preparation for refitting
22The mating faces of the cylinder head and
cylinder block must be perfectly clean before
refitting the head. Use a hard plastic or wood
scraper to remove all traces of gasket and
carbon; also clean the piston crowns. Take
particular care during the cleaning operations,
as aluminium alloy is easily damaged. Also,
make sure that the carbon is not allowed to
enter the oil and water passages - this is
particularly important for the lubrication
system, as carbon could block the oil supply
to the engine’s components. Using adhesive
tape and paper, seal the water, oil and bolt
holes in the cylinder block.
23 Check the mating surfaces of the cylinder
block and the cylinder head for nicks, deep
scratches and other damage. If slight, they may be removed carefully with a file, but if
excessive, machining may be the only
alternative to renewal.
24
If warpage of the cylinder head gasket
surface is suspected, use a straight-edge to
check it for distortion. Refer to Part D of this
Chapter if necessary.
25 Ensure that new cylinder head bolts are
used when refitting and clean out the bolt
holes in the block. Screwing a bolt into an oil-
filled hole can (in extreme cases) cause the
block to fracture, due to the hydraulic
pressure.
Refitting
26 To prevent the possibility of the valves
and pistons coming into contact as the head
is fitted, turn the crankshaft over to position
No 1 piston approximately 20 mm below its
TDC position in the bore.
27 Locate the cylinder head gasket on the
top face of the cylinder block, locating it over
the dowels. Ensure that the gasket is fitted the
correct way up, as indicated by its “OBEN-
TOP” marking (see illustration) .
28 Lower the cylinder head into position,
ensuring that it fits over the locating dowels,
then insert the new retaining bolts. Hand-
tighten the bolts initially, then tighten them in
the order shown in the four stages to the
specified torque setting (see illustration).
Where possible, use an angular torque setting
gauge attachment tool for accurate tightening
of stages three and four. Alternatively, after
the first two stages, mark the bolt heads with
a dab of quick drying paint, so that the paint
spots all face the same direction. Now tighten
all the bolts in the sequence to the Stage 3
setting, by tightening them through the
specified angle. Finally, angle-tighten all the
bolts through the Stage 4 angle.
29 The camshaft sprocket should be
positioned so that its TDC index mark pointer
is in alignment with the TDC index spot mark
on the front end face of the cylinder head (see
illustration 3.6b).
30 Now turn the crankshaft pulley to bring its
TDC notch in alignment with the TDC (0)
indicator on the front face of the timing belt
cover, taking the shortest route (not vice-
versa) (see illustration 3.6a). 31
Refit the timing belt over the camshaft
sprocket, and then tension the belt as
described in Section 8.
32 The remainder of the refitting procedure is
a reversal of the removal process. Tighten all
fastenings to their specified torque setting
(where given). Refer to the appropriate Parts
of Chapter 4 for details on reconnecting the
fuel and exhaust system components, and to
Chapter 5B for details on reconnecting the
ignition system components. Ensure that all
coolant, fuel, vacuum and electrical
connections are securely made.
33 On completion, refill the cooling system
and top-up the engine oil (see Chapter 1 and
“Weekly Checks” ). When the engine is
restarted, check for any sign of fuel, oil and/or
coolant leakages from the various cylinder
head joints.
13 Sump -
removal and refitting
2
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Drain the engine oil as described in Chapter
1.
3 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ). Remove
the auxiliary drivebelt lower cover from inside
the right-hand wheel arch.
4 Where fitted, pull free the oxygen sensor
lead multi-plug, and disconnect it. If the
engine has been recently run, take particular
care against burning when working in the area
of the catalytic converter.
5 Undo the retaining nuts, and detach the
exhaust downpipe from the manifold. The
flange gasket must be renewed when
reconnecting. Where applicable, also detach
the downpipe at the rear of the catalytic
converter, and release it from the front
mounting.
6 On XR2i models, remove the front
suspension crossmember as described in
Chapter 10. On all models, undo the nut and
2B•10 CVH and PTE engine in-car repair procedures
12.28 Cylinder head bolt tightening
sequence12.27 Fit the cylinder head gasket with the“OBEN/TOP” marking upwards . . .12.21 Cylinder head location dowels (A)and gasket identification teeth (B)
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
To prevent carbon entering
the gap between the pistons
and bores, smear a little
grease in the gap. After
cleaning each piston, use a small brush
to remove all traces of grease and
carbon from the gap, then wipe away
the remainder with a clean rag.
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