maintenance schedule FORD FIESTA 1989 Service Repair Manual

The maintenance schedule for these
vehicles, based on the manufacturer’s
recommendations, is as described below -
note that the schedule starts from the
vehicle’s date of registration. These are the
minimum maintenance intervals recommen-
ded by the factory for Fiestas driven daily, but
subjected only to “normal” use. If you wish to
keep your vehicle in peak condition at all
times, you may wish to perform some of these
procedures even more often. Because
frequent maintenance enhances the
efficiency, performance and resale value of
your vehicle, we encourage you to do so. If
your usage is not “normal”, shorter intervals are also recommended - the most important
examples of these are noted in the schedule.
These shorter intervals apply particularly if
you drive in dusty areas, tow a caravan or
trailer, sit with the engine idling or drive at low
speeds for extended periods (ie, in heavy
traffic), or drive for short distances (less
than four miles) in below-freezing
temperatures.
When your vehicle is new, it should be
serviced by a Ford dealer service department
to protect the factory warranty. In many
cases, the initial maintenance check is done
at no cost to the owner. Note that this first
free service (carried out by the selling dealer 1500 miles or 3 months after delivery),
although an important check for a new
vehicle, is not part of the regular maintenance
schedule, and is therefore not mentioned
here.
It should be noted that for the 1992 model
year, for all models except RS Turbo, the
service time/mileage intervals were
extended by the manufacturer to the periods
shown in this schedule. Although these
intervals can be applied retrospectively,
owners of earlier vehicles may notice a
discrepancy between this schedule and the
one shown in the Service Guide supplied
with the vehicle.
1•4Maintenance schedule
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
Every 250 miles (400 km) or weekly
m
m Refer to “Weekly Checks” .
Every 5000 miles (8000 km) or
6 months, whichever occurs first
Note: Frequent oil and filter changes are good for the engine. We
recommend changing the oil at the mileage specified here, or at least
twice a year if the mileage covered is less.
m m Renew the engine oil and filter (Section 3).
Every 10 000 miles (16 000 km) or
12 months, whichever occurs first
Carry out all operations listed above, plus the following:
m mCheck the auxiliary drivebelt (Section 4).
m
m Check under the bonnet for fluid leaks and hose condition
(Section 5).
m
m Check the condition of all engine compartment wiring (Sec-
tion 6).
m
m Check the valve clearance adjustment - HCS engines only
(Section 7).
m
m Check the manual transmission oil level (Section 8).
m
m Check the engine idle speed and mixture - HCS and CVH
engines only, where possible (Section 9).
m
m Check the steering, suspension and roadwheels (Section 10).
m
m Check the driveshaft rubber gaiters and CV joints (Section 11).
m
m Check the exhaust system (Section 12).
m
m Check the underbody, and all fuel/brake lines (Section 13).
m
m Check the brake system (Section 14).
m
m Check the security of all roadwheel nuts (Section 15).
m
m Check the doors, tailgate and bonnet, and lubricate their hinges
and locks (Section 16).
m
m Check the seat belts (Section 17).
m
m Check the condition of the bodywork, paint and exterior trim
(Section 18).
m
m Road test (Section 19).
m
m Check the automatic transmission fluid level (Section 20).
Every 20 000 miles (32 000 km) or
two years, whichever occurs first
Carry out all operations listed above, plus the following:
m mRenew the spark plugs and check the condition of the HT leads
- all engines except Zetec (Section 21).
m
m Clean the idle speed control valve (Weber type) - CVH EFi
engines only (Section 22).
Every 30 000 miles (48 000 km) or
three years, whichever occurs first
Carry out all operations listed above, plus the following:
m m Renew the coolant (Section 23).
m
m Renew the air cleaner filter element and check the air cleaner
temperature control system - carburettor engines only (Sec-
tion 24).
m m Check the emission control systems (Section 25).
m
m Renew the spark plugs and check the condition of the HT leads
- Zetec engines (Section 21).
m
m Renew the automatic transmission fluid (Section 26).
m
m Check the handbrake adjustment (Section 27).
m
m Check the front wheel alignment (Section 28).
Note: If the vehicle is used regularly in dusty or polluted conditions,
the air cleaner filter element should be renewed at more frequent
intervals.
Every 40 000 miles
m
m Renew the timing belt - CVH and PTE engines only (Section 29).
Every 60 000 miles
m
mRenew the timing belt - Zetec engines only (Section 29).
m
m Renew the fuel filter (Section 30).
Every three years
(regardless of mileage)
m m Renew the brake fluid (Section 31).
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3 Engine oil and filter renewal
1
1Make sure that you have all the necessary
tools before you begin this procedure (see
illustration) . You should also have plenty of
rags or newspapers handy, for mopping up
any spills.
2 To avoid any possibility of scalding, and to
protect yourself from possible skin irritants
and other harmful contaminants in used
engine oils, it is advisable to wear gloves
when carrying out this work. 3
Access to the underside of the vehicle is
greatly improved if the vehicle can be lifted on a
hoist, driven onto ramps, or supported by axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ).
Warning: Do not work under a
vehicle which is supported only
by an hydraulic or scissors-type
jack, or by bricks, blocks of
wood, etc. 4
If this is your first oil change, get under the
vehicle and familiarise yourself with the
position of the engine oil drain plug location in
the sump. The engine and exhaust
components will be warm during the actual
work, so try to anticipate any potential
problems while the engine and accessories
are cool.
5 The oil should preferably be changed when
the engine is still fully warmed-up to normal
operating temperature, just after a run (the
needle on the temperature gauge should be in
the “Normal” sector of the gauge); warm oil
and sludge will flow out more easily. Park the
vehicle on firm, level ground, apply the
handbrake firmly, then select 1st or reverse
gear (manual transmission) or the “P” position
(automatic transmission). Open the bonnet
and remove the engine oil filler cap from the
cylinder head cover, then remove the oil level
dipstick from its tube (see “Weekly Checks”).
6 Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it
securely on axle stands (see “Jacking and
Vehicle Support” ). Remove the front right-
hand roadwheel to provide access to the oil
1 Introduction
This Chapter is designed to help the home
mechanic maintain his/her vehicle for safety,
economy, long life and peak performance.
This Chapter contains a master
maintenance schedule, followed by Sections
dealing specifically with each task in the
schedule. Visual checks, adjustments,
component renewal and other helpful items
are included. Refer to the accompanying
illustrations of the engine compartment and
the underside of the vehicle for the locations
of the various components.
Servicing your vehicle in accordance with
the mileage/time maintenance schedule and
the following Sections will provide a planned
maintenance programme, which should result
in a long and reliable service life. This is a
comprehensive plan, so maintaining some
items but not others at the specified service
intervals will not produce the same results. As you service your vehicle, you will
discover that many of the procedures can -
and should - be grouped together, because of
the particular procedure being performed, or
because of the close proximity of two
otherwise-unrelated components to one
another. For example, if the vehicle is raised
for any reason, the exhaust should be
inspected at the same time as the suspension
and steering components.
The first step of this maintenance
programme is to prepare yourself before the
actual work begins. Read through all the Sections relevant to the work to be carried
out, then make a list and gather together all
the parts and tools required. If a problem is
encountered, seek advice from a parts
specialist or a dealer service department.
2 Intensive maintenance
1
If, from the time the vehicle is new, the
routine maintenance schedule is followed
closely, and frequent checks are made of fluid
levels and high-wear items, as suggested
throughout this manual, the engine will be
kept in relatively good running condition, and
the need for additional work will be minimised.
2 It is possible that there will be some times
when the engine is running poorly due to the
lack of regular maintenance. This is even more
likely if a used vehicle, which has not received
regular and frequent maintenance checks, is
purchased. In such cases, additional work
may need to be carried out, outside of the
regular maintenance intervals.
3 If engine wear is suspected, a compression
test (refer to Part A, B or C of Chapter 2) will
provide valuable information regarding the
overall performance of the main internal
components. Such a test can be used as a
basis to decide on the extent of the work to
be carried out. If, for example, a compression
test indicates serious internal engine wear,
conventional maintenance as described in this
Chapter will not greatly improve the
performance of the engine, and may prove a waste of time and money, unless extensive
overhaul work (Chapter 2D) is carried out first.
4
The following series of operations are those
often required to improve the performance of
a generally poor-running engine:
Primary operations
a) Clean, inspect and test the battery (See
“Weekly Checks”).
b) Check all the engine-related fluids (See
“Weekly Checks”).
c) Check the condition of the auxiliary drivebelt (Section 4).
d) Check and if necessary adjust the valve
clearances on HCS engines (Section 7).
e) Renew the spark plugs and clean and inspect the HT leads (Section 21).
f) Check the condition of the air cleaner filter element and renew if necessary
(Section 24).
g) Check and if necessary adjust the idle speed and mixture settings - where
applicable (Section 9).
h) Renew the fuel filter - fuel injection models (Section 30).
i) Check the condition of all hoses, and check for fluid leaks (Section 5).
5 If the above operations do not prove fully
effective, carry out the following operations:
Secondary operations
All the items listed under “Primary
operations”, plus the following: a) Check the charging system (Chapter 5A).
b) Check the ignition system (Chapter 5B).
c) Check the fuel system (Chapter 4A, 4B,
4C and 4D).
e) Renew the ignition HT leads (Section 21).
Maintenance procedures1•9
3.2 These tools are required when changing the engine oil and filter
1
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
Every 5000 miles (8000 km) or 6 months, whichever occurs first
Frequent oil changes are the
best preventive
maintenance the home
mechanic can give the
engine, because ageing oil becomes
diluted and contaminated, which leads
to premature engine wear.
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d)Refit the remaining parts in the reverse
order of removal. Tighten all fasteners to
the specified torque wrench settings
where given.
e) Where drained, refill the cooling system (see Chapter 1).
f) Run the engine, and check for exhaust
leaks. Check the coolant level when fully
warmed-up to normal operating
temperature.
4 Catalytic converter - general
information and precautions
The catalytic converter is a reliable and
simple device, which needs no maintenance
in itself, but there are some facts of which an
owner should be aware if the converter is to
function properly for its full service life. a) DO NOT use leaded petrol in a vehicle equipped with a catalytic converter - the
lead will coat the precious metals,
reducing their converting efficiency, and
will eventually destroy the converter.
b) Always keep the ignition and fuel systems
well-maintained in accordance with the
manufacturer’s schedule (see Chapter 1).
c) If the engine develops a misfire, do not drive the vehicle at all (or at least as little
as possible) until the fault is cured.
d) DO NOT push - or tow-start the vehicle -
this will soak the catalytic converter in
unburned fuel, causing it to overheat
when the engine does start.
e) DO NOT switch off the ignition at high engine speeds, ie do not “blip” the
throttle immediately before switching off.
f) DO NOT use fuel or engine oil additives - these may contain substances harmful to
the catalytic converter.
g) DO NOT continue to use the vehicle if the
engine burns oil to the extent of leaving a
visible trail of blue smoke.
h) Remember that the catalytic converter
operates at very high temperatures. DO
NOT, therefore, park the vehicle in dry
undergrowth, over long grass or piles of
dead leaves, after a long run.
I) Remember that the catalytic converter is FRAGILE. Do not strike it with tools
during servicing work.
j) In some cases, a sulphurous smell (like
that of rotten eggs) may be noticed from
the exhaust. This is common to many
catalytic converter-equipped vehicles.
Once the vehicle has covered a few
thousand miles, the problem should
disappear. Low quality fuel with a high
sulphur content will exacerbate this effect.
k) The catalytic converter used on a well-
maintained and well-driven vehicle should
last for between 50 000 and
100 000 miles. If the converter is no
longer effective, it must be renewed.
5 Positive crankcase ventilation system - checking
and component renewal
2
Checking
1 Checking procedures for the system
components are included in Chapter 1.
Component renewal - all
engines except Zetec
Air cleaner components
2 See Chapter 1.
Filter/oil separator and hoses
3All the components relating to the positive
crankcase ventilation system, with the
exception of the HCS engine filter/adapter
located on the underside of the air cleaner,
may be removed by simple disconnection and
withdrawal (having noted all connections for
subsequent refitting).
4 The refitting of all components is a reversal
of the removal procedure, ensuring that the
connections are correctly made.
Component renewal - Zetec
engines
Air cleaner components
5 See Chapter 1.
Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV)
valve
6The valve is plugged into the oil separator
on Zetec engines (see illustration).Depending on the tools available, access to
the valve may be possible once the pulse-air
assembly has been removed (see Section 7).
If this is not feasible, proceed as outlined in
paragraph 7 below.
Oil separator
7
Remove the exhaust manifold (see Sec-
tion 3). The positive crankcase ventilation
valve can now be unplugged and flushed, or
renewed, as required, as described in Chap-
ter 1.
8 Unbolt the oil separator from the cylinder
block/crankcase, and withdraw it; remove and
discard the gasket.
9 Flush out or renew the oil separator, as
required (see Chapter 1).
10 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure, but use a new gasket between the
oil separator and cylinder block. Refill the
cooling system (see Chapter 1). Run the
engine, check for exhaust leaks, and check
the coolant level when it is fully warmed-up.
6 Evaporative emissions control system - checking
and component renewal
2
Checking
1 Poor idle, stalling and poor driveability can
be caused by an inoperative canister-purge
solenoid valve, a damaged canister, split or
cracked hoses, or hoses connected to the
wrong fittings. Check the fuel filler cap for a
damaged or deformed gasket.
Exhaust and emission control systems 4E•5
5.6 Crankcase emission control system (Zetec engine models)
1 Oil separator
2 Gasket
3 Positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) valve 4 Cylinder block/crankcase opening
5 Crankcase breather pipe and flexible
hoses
4E
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The vehicle owner who does his or her own
maintenance according to the recommended
service schedules should not have to use this
section of the manual very often. Modern
component reliability is such that, provided
those items subject to wear or deterioration
are inspected or renewed at the specified
intervals, sudden failure is comparatively rare.
Faults do not usually just happen as a result of
sudden failure, but develop over a period of
time. Major mechanical failures in particular are usually preceded by characteristic
symptoms over hundreds or even thousands
of miles. Those components which do
occasionally fail without warning are often
small and easily carried in the vehicle.
With any fault-finding, the first step is to
decide where to begin investigations.
Sometimes this is obvious, but on other
occasions, a little detective work will be
necessary. The owner who makes half a
dozen haphazard adjustments or replacements may be successful in curing a
fault (or its symptoms), but will be none the
wiser if the fault recurs, and ultimately may
have spent more time and money than was
necessary. A calm and logical approach will
be found to be more satisfactory in the long
run. Always take into account any warning
signs or abnormalities that may have been
noticed in the period preceding the fault -
power loss, high or low gauge readings,
unusual smells, etc - and remember that
Engine
m
m
Engine backfires
m
m Engine difficult to start when cold
m
m Engine difficult to start when hot
m
m Engine fails to rotate when attempting to start
m
m Engine hesitates on acceleration
m
m Engine idles erratically
m
m Engine lacks power
m
m Engine misfires at idle speed
m
m Engine misfires throughout the driving speed range
m
m Engine noises
m
m Engine rotates, but will not start
m
m Engine runs-on after switching off
m
m Engine stalls
m
m Engine starts, but stops immediately
m
m Oil pressure warning light illuminated with engine running
m
m Starter motor noisy or excessively-rough in engagement
Cooling system
m
mCorrosion
m
m External coolant leakage
m
m Internal coolant leakage
m
m Overcooling
m
m Overheating
Fuel and exhaust systems
m
mExcessive fuel consumption
m
m Excessive noise or fumes from exhaust system
m
m Fuel leakage and/or fuel odour
Clutch
m
mClutch fails to disengage (unable to select gears)
m
m Clutch slips (engine speed increases, with no increase in vehicle
speed)
m m Judder as clutch is engaged
m
m Noise when depressing or releasing clutch pedal
m
m Pedal travels to floor - no pressure or very little resistance
Manual transmission
m
mJumps out of gear
m
m Lubricant leaks
m
m Noisy in neutral with engine running
m
m Noisy in one particular gear
m
m Vibration
Automatic transmission
m
mEngine will not start in any gear, or starts in gears other than Park
or Neutral
m m Fluid leakage
m
m General gear selection problems
m
m Transmission fluid brown, or has burned smell
m
m Transmission slips, shifts roughly, is noisy, or has no drive in
forward or reverse gears
m m Transmission will not downshift (kickdown) with accelerator fully
depressed
Driveshafts
m mClicking or knocking noise on turns (at slow speed on full-lock)
m
m Vibration when accelerating or decelerating
Braking system
m
mBrake pedal feels spongy when depressed
m
m Brakes binding
m
m Excessive brake pedal effort required to stop vehicle
m
m Excessive brake pedal travel
m
m Judder felt through brake pedal or steering wheel when braking
m
m Noise (grinding or high-pitched squeal) when brakes applied
m
m Rear wheels locking under normal braking
m
m Vehicle pulls to one side under braking
Suspension and steering systems
m
mExcessive pitching and/or rolling around corners, or during
braking
m m Excessive play in steering
m
m Excessively-stiff steering
m
m Lack of power assistance
m
m Tyre wear excessive
m
m Vehicle pulls to one side
m
m Wandering or general instability
m
m Wheel wobble and vibration
Electrical system
m
mBattery will not hold a charge for more than a few days
m
m Electric windows inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation
m
m Horn inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation
m
m Ignition warning light fails to come on
m
m Ignition warning light remains illuminated with engine running
m
m Instrument readings inaccurate or erratic
m
m Lights inoperative
m
m Windscreen/tailgate washers inoperative, or unsatisfactory in
operation
m m Windscreen/tailgate wipers inoperative, or unsatisfactory in
operation
REF•14Fault finding
1595 Ford Fiesta Remake
Introduction
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