transmission FORD GRANADA 1985 Service User Guide

Chapter 2 Part A:
1.8 & 2.0 litre SOHC engines
Ancillary components - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46
Ancillary components - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Auxiliary shaft - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31
Auxiliary shaft - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41
Auxiliary shaft - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
Camshaft and cam followers - examination and renovation . . . . . .30
Camshaft - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43
Camshaft - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11
Compression test - description and interpretation . . . . . . . . . . . . .52
Crankcase ventilation system - general information . . . . . . . . . . . .24
Crankshaft and bearings - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . .27
Crankshaft and main bearings - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36
Crankshaft and main bearings - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22
Crankshaft front oil seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17
Crankshaft rear oil seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18
Cylinder block and bores - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . .28
Cylinder head - decarbonising, valve grinding and renovation . . . .34
Cylinder head - dismantling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Cylinder head - reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42
Cylinder head - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44
Cylinder head - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10
Engine and gearbox - reconnection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .47
Engine dismantling - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Engine mountings - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23
Engine reassembly - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35
Engine - refitting without gearbox/transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .49Engine - refitting with manual gearbox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48
Engine - removal leaving gearbox/transmission in vehicle . . . . . . . .5
Engine - removal with manual gearbox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Engine - separation from manual gearbox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Examination and renovation - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . .25
Flywheel/driveplate and adapter plate - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40
Flywheel/driveplate and adapter plate - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15
Flywheel ring gear - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1
Initial start-up after overhaul or major repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .51
Major operations possible with the engine in the vehicle . . . . . . . . .2
Major operations requiring engine removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3
Methods of engine removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
Oil filter - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20
Oil pump - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26
Oil pump - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38
Oil pump - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19
Pistons and connecting rods - examination and renovation . . . . . .29
Pistons and connecting rods - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37
Pistons and connecting rods - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21
Sump - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39
Sump - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16
Timing belt - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32
Timing belt and sprockets - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45
Timing belt and sprockets - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Valve clearances - checking and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50
General1.8 HC E 2.0 HC 2.0 HC EFi
Manufacturer’s code . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . REC NEL NRA
Bore - mm (in) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.20 (3.39) 90.82 (3.58) 90.82 (3.58)
Stroke - mm (in) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76.95 (3.03) 76.95 (3.03) 76.95 (3.03)
Cubic capacity - cc (cu in) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1796 (109.6) 1993 (121.6) 1993 (121.6)
Compression ratio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.5:1 9.2:1 9.2:1
Compression pressure at cranking speed (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 to 13 bar (160 to 189 lbf/in
2)
Maximum power (DIN, kW @ rpm) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 @ 5400 77 @ 5200 85 @ 5500
Maximum torque (DIN, Nm @ rpm) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140 @ 3500 157 @ 4000 160 @ 4000
Lubrication system
Oil type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See“Lubricants and fluids”
Oil capacity (drain and refill, including filter) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.75 litres (6.6 pints) approx
Oil pressure (SAE 10W/30 oil at 80°C/176°F):
At 750 rpm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.1 bar
At 2000 rpm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.5 bar
Oil pressure relief valve opening pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.0 to 4.7 bar
Oil pressure warning light switch setting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.3 to 0.5 bar
2A•1
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanicDifficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert
DIY or professional
Degrees of difficulty
Specifications Contents
2A
procarmanuals.com

The cylinder head is of crossflow design
with the inlet manifold mounted on the left-
hand side and the exhaust manifold mounted
on the right-hand side.
Lubrication is by means of a bi-rotor pump
which draws oil through a strainer located
inside the sump, and forces it through a full-
flow filter into the engine oil galleries where it
is distributed to the crankshaft, camshaft and
auxiliary shaft. The big-end bearings are
supplied with oil via internal drillings in the
crankshaft.The undersides of the pistons are
supplied with oil from drillings in the big-ends.
The distributor shaft is intermittently supplied
with oil from the drilled auxiliary shaft. The
camshaft and cam followers are supplied with
oil via a drilled spray tube from the centre
camshaft bearing.
A semi-closed crankcase ventilation system
is employed whereby piston blow-by gases
are drawn into the inlet manifold via an oil
separator and on carburettor models a control
valve.
The following operations can be carried out
without removing the engine, although the
work may be easier and quicker with the
engine removed:
a)Removal and refitting of the cylinder head
b)Removal and refitting of the camshaft
(after removing the cylinder head)
c)Removal and refitting of the timing belt
and sprockets
d)Removal and refitting of the sump and oil
pump
e)Removal and refitting of the pistons,
connecting rods and big-end bearings
f)Renewal of the engine mountings
g)Renewal of the crankshaft oil seals
h)Removal and refitting of the auxiliary shaft
j)Removal and refitting of the flywheel
The engine must be removed from the
vehicle for the following operations:
a)Renewal of the crankshaft main bearings
b)Removal and refitting of the crankshaft
The engine may be lifted out either on its
own or together with the gearbox. Unless work
is also necessary on the gearbox it is
recommended that the engine is removed on
its own. Where automatic transmission is
fitted, the engine should be removed on its
own owing to the additional weight. If the
engine and gearbox are removed together,
they will have to be tilted at a very steep angle;
make sure that the range of the lifting tackle is
adequate.1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the bonnet.
3On carburettor models, remove the air
cleaner. On fuel-injection models, remove the
air cleaner cover, vane airflow meter and air
inlet trunking.
4If a splash guard is fitted, remove it.
5Release the securing clips and bolts and
remove the upper half of the fan shroud. On
carburettor models remove the lower half of
the shroud too.
6Drain the cooling system.
7Disconnect the radiator top and bottom
hoses from the thermostat housing and water
pump. Disconnect the top hose spur from the
expansion tank and unclip it.
8Disconnect the heater hoses from the water
pump and from the inlet manifold or automatic
choke housing. Unclip the hoses.
9On models with power steering, remove the
steering pump.
10Disconnect the vacuum pipe(s) from the
inlet manifold, labelling them if there is any
possibility of confusion.
11Disconnect the following wiring, as
applicable:
a)Alternator
b)Temperature gauge sender
c)Engine management temperature sensor
d)Distributor
e)Oil pressure switch
f)Automatic choke and thermo-switch
g)Carburettor stepper motor
h)Fuel-injection system sub-harness
j)Inlet manifold heater
12Disconnect the HT lead from the coil.
13If an oil level sensor is fitted, remove it
(see illustration).
14Unbolt the throttle cable bracket,
disconnect the inner cable and move the cable
and bracket aside. Also disconnect the
downshift cable on automatic transmission
models.
15On carburettor models, disconnect the
fuel lines from the fuel pump (mechanised
type) and from the carburettor. Be prepared
for fuel spillage.
16On fuel-injection models, disconnect the
fuel supply union from the injector rail, and the
fuel return pipe from the fuel pressureregulator. Be prepared for fuel spillage, and
for some spray if the supply side is still
under pressure.
17Unbolt the exhaust downpipe from the
manifold.
18On models with air conditioning, unbolt
the compressor and move it aside without
straining the flexible hoses.
19Remove the starter motor.
20Although not specified by the
manufacturers, the author advises that either
the radiator or the cooling fan be removed, to
reduce the risk of damage.
21Attach the lifting tackle to the two lifting
eyes on the engine, so that when suspended
the engine will be roughly horizontal. Take the
weight of the engine.
22Remove the single nut on each side which
secures each engine bearer to its mounting.
23Working under the vehicle, remove the
bracing strap which connects the engine and
transmission. Unbolt the adapter plate from
the bottom of the transmission bellhousing.
24On automatic transmission models, unbolt
the torque converter from the driveplate.
25Remove the engine-to-bellhousing bolts.
Note the location of the battery earth strap.
26Support the transmission, preferably with
a trolley jack.
27Check that nothing has been overlooked,
then raise the engine and draw it forwards
clear of the transmission input shaft. Do not
allow the weight of the engine to hang on the
shaft, and do not lift the transmission by it.
28On automatic transmission models, make
sure that the torque converter stays engaged
with the oil pump in the transmission as the
engine is withdrawn,
29Lift the engine out of the engine bay and
take it to the bench.
1Engine removal with automatic transmission
is not recommended.
2Proceed as in the previous Section,
paragraphs 1 to 18.
3Disconnect the wiring from the starter
motor, and release the battery earth cable
from its bellhousing bolt.
4Remove the radiator.
5Remove the propeller shaft.
6Disconnect and unclip the reversing light
switch and speedometer sender unit wiring.
7Disconnect the clutch cable.
8Unbolt the anti-roll bar mounting brackets
and lower the anti-roll bar as far as possible.
9From inside the vehicle remove the gear
lever.
10Drain the engine oil.
11Unhook the exhaust system from its
mounting on the gearbox crossmember. Either
support the system or remove it completely.
12Support the gearbox, preferably with a
trolley jack, then unbolt and remove the
gearbox crossmember. Note the earth strap (if
fitted) under one of the crossmember bolts.
13Attach lifting tackle to the two lifting eyes
on the engine so that when suspended it will
be at an angle of approximately 45°.
6Engine - removal with manual
gearbox
5Engine - removal leaving
gearbox/transmission in vehicle
4Methods of engine removal
3Major operations requiring
engine removal
2Major operations possible with
the engine in the vehicle
SOHCengines 2A•5
2A
5.13 Oil level sensor
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14Take the weight of the engine and remove
the two engine bearer-to-mounting nuts.
15Lift the engine/transmission, at the same
time lowering the trolley jack. Draw the unit
forwards and lift it out of the engine bay.
16Temporarily refit the anti-roll bar if the
vehicle is to be moved.
1With the engine and gearbox on the bench,
remove the starter motor.
2Remove the bolt from the engine adapter plate.
3Remove the bracing strap and the
remaining engine-to-bellhousing bolts.
4With the aid of an assistant draw the
gearbox off the engine. Do not allow the weight
of the gearbox to hang on the input shaft.
1It is best to mount the engine on a
dismantling stand, but if this is not available,
stand the engine on a strong bench at a
comfortable working height. Failing this, it will
have to be stripped down on the floor.
2Cleanliness is most important, and if the
engine is dirty, it should be cleaned with
paraffin while keeping it in an upright position.
3Avoid working with the engine on a concrete
floor, as grit can be a real source of trouble.
4As parts are removed, clean them in paraffin.
However, do not immerse parts with internal
oilways in paraffin as it is difficult to remove,
usually requiring a high pressure hose.
5It is advisable to have suitable containers to
hold small items according to their use, as this
will help when reassembling the engine and
also prevent possible losses.
6Always obtain complete sets of gaskets
when the engine is being dismantled, but
retain the old gaskets with a view of using
them as a pattern to make a replacement if a
new one is not available.7When possible, refit nuts, bolts and washers
in their location after being removed, as this
helps protect the threads and will also be
helpful when reassembling the engine.
8Retain unserviceable components in order
to compare them with the new parts supplied.
9A Torx key, size T55, will be needed for
dealing with the cylinder head bolts. A 12-
spline key (to fit bolt size M8) will be needed
for the oil pump bolts. Other Torx and 12-
spline bolts may be encountered; sets of the
keys required to deal with them are available
from most motor accessory shops and tool
factors.
10Another tool which is useful, though by no
means essential, is a valve spring compressor
of the type which hooks under the camshaft
(see illustration). As a Ford tool this bears the
number 21-005-A; proprietary versions may
also be available.
Before dismantling the engine into its main
components, the following ancillary
components can be removed. The actual
items removed, and the sequence of removal,
will depend on the work to be done:
Inlet manifold and associated items
Exhaust manifold
Fuel pump (mechanical type) and pushrod
Alternator
Distributor, HT leads and spark plugs
Fan, water pump and thermostat
Oil pressure switch
(see illustration)
Temperature gauge senderOil filter and dipstick
Engine bearer arms (see illustration)
Crankcase ventilation components
Clutch
Alternator mounting bracket (see
illustration)
1If the engine is still in the vehicle, carry out
the following preliminary operations:
a)Disconnect the battery negative lead
b)Drain the cooling system
c)Remove the inlet and exhaust manifolds
d)Disconnect the radiator top hose from the
thermostat housing, and the spur from the
expansion tank
e)Disconnect the wiring from the
temperature gauge sender
f)Remove the distributor cap, HT leads and
spark plugs
2Unscrew the bolts and withdraw the timing
cover (see illustration). Note the location of
the cover in the special bolt.
3Using a socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt.
turn the engine clockwise until the TDC (top
dead centre) notch on the pulley is aligned
with the pointer on the crankshaft front oil seal
housing, and the pointer on the camshaft
sprocket is aligned with the indentation on the
cylinder head (see illustrations).Note the
position of the distributor rotor arm, and mark
its contact end in relation to the rim of the
distributor body.
4Slacken the timing belt tensioner bolts. Pivot
10Cylinder head - removal
9Ancillary components - removal
8Engine dismantling - general
information
7Engine - separation from
manual gearbox
2A•6SOHCengines
9.1a Engine oil pressure switch (arrowed)
9.1b Removing an engine bearer arm9.1c Removing the alternator bracket
8.10 This valve spring compressor is used
by hooking it under the camshaft
Clean oilways with nylon pipe
cleaners.
10.2 Removing the timing cover
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10Unscrew the auxiliary shaft sprocket bolt
while holding the sprocket stationary with a
screwdriver inserted through one of the holes.
11Remove the auxiliary shaft sprocket using
a puller if necessary (see illustration).
12Unscrew the camshaft sprocket bolt while
holding the sprocket stationary with a
screwdriver engaged in one of the grooves.
Alternatively remove the rocker cover and use
a spanner on the camshaft lug.
13Remove the camshaft sprocket using a
puller if necessary, then remove the backplate.
Note that the oil seal can be removed using a
special removal tool or by using self-tapping
screws and a pair of grips.
1Remove the timing belt and the auxiliary
shaft sprocket (only) (Section 13).
2Remove the distributor.
3Remove the fuel pump and pushrod (not
applicable to models with an electric pump).
4Unscrew the bolts and remove the auxiliary
shaft front cover (see illustration).
5Unscrew the cross-head screws, using an
impact screwdriver if necessary, remove the
thrust plate and withdraw the auxiliary shaft
from the block (see illustrations).
6Cut the front cover gasket along the top of
the crankshaft front oil seal housing and
scrape off the gasket.
1If the engine is still in the vehicle, remove
the clutch or automatic transmission.
2Prevent the flywheel or driveplate rotating
by jamming the ring gear teeth, or by bolting a
strap to it.
3Remove the securing bolts and withdraw
the flywheel or driveplate. Do not drop it, it is
heavy.
4The engine adapter plate (backplate) may
now be withdrawn from the dowels if required
(see illustration).1If the engine is out of the vehicle, start at
paragraph 11. If possible, remove the sump
without inverting the engine, so that any
sludge in the bottom of the sump stays there.
2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3Raise and support the front of the vehicle.
4Remove the splash guard, if fitted, and drain
the engine oil.
5Remove the starter motor.
6Remove the two nuts which secure the
engine bearers to the engine mountings.
7Release the steering shaft universal joint
strap bolt to allow for subsequent movement.
8Free the brake hydraulic pipes from the
clips on the front crossmember.9Support the engine, either with conventional
lifting tackle or with a bar positioned across
the engine bay and resting on two wooden
blocks drilled to fit securely on the suspension
turrets. Make sure the support arrangements
are satisfactory, as you will be working
underneath the suspended engine.
10Take the weight of the engine. Place a jack
under the front crossmember, remove the
crossmember mounting bolts and carefully
lower the jack. Only lower the crossmember
far enough to permit removal of the sump.
11Remove the 23 bolts retaining the sump.
12Remove the sump from the cylinder block
(see illustration). If it is stuck, hit it with a soft-
faced mallet, or prise it sideways (notbetween
the mating faces) with a large screwdriver or
bar.
13Recover the gaskets and sealing strips.
16Sump - removal
15Flywheel/driveplate and
adapter plate - removal
14Auxiliary shaft - removal
SOHCengines 2A•9
2A
13.9 Removing the crankshaft sprocket13.11 Removing the auxiliary shaft
sprocket14.4 Removing the auxiliary shaft front
cover
14.5b Removing the auxiliary shaft14.5a Removing the auxiliary shaft thrust
plate
15.4 Removing the engine adaptor plate
(backplate)16.12 Removing the sump
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1Insert the oil pump driveshaft into the block
in its previously noted position.
2Prime the pump by injecting oil into it and
turning it by hand (see illustration).
3Fit the pump. insert the bolts and tighten
them to the specified torque with the splined
key.
4Insert the pick-up tube securing bolt and
tighten it.
5Where applicable refit the crankshaft front
oil seal housing together with a new gasket
and tighten the bolts. Make sure that the
bottom face of the housing is aligned with the
bottom face of the block.
6Refit the sump.
1Apply sealing compound to the corners of
the front and rear rubber sealing strap
locations, then press the strips into the
grooves of the rear main bearing cap and
crankshaft front oil seal housing (see
illustrations)
2Apply a little sealing compound to the
bottom face of the cylinder block, then fit the
sump gaskets in position and locate the end
tabs beneath the rubber sealing strips (see
illustration).3Locate the sump on the gaskets and insert
the bolts loosely.
4Tighten the bolts to the specified torques in
the two stages given in the Specifications(see
illustration).Tighten to the first stage in
circular sequence starting at point A, then
tighten to the second stage starting at point B.
Tighten to the third stage after the engine has
been running for twenty minutes.
5If the engine is in the vehicle, reverse the
steps taken to gain access to the sump.
1If it was removed, refit the adapter plate
(backplate) over the dowels on the rear of the
block.2Wipe the mating faces, then locate the
flywheel/driveplate on the rear of the
crankshaft.
3Coat the threads of the bolts with a liquid
locking agent before fitting. Note that the
manufacturers recommend using new bolts.
4Using a piece of angle iron, hold the
flywheel/driveplate stationary, then tighten the
bolts evenly to the specified torque in diagonal
sequence (see illustrations).
5If the engine is in the car, refit the automatic
transmission or the clutch.
1Oil the auxiliary shaft journals, then insert
the shaft into the cylinder block.
2Locate the thrust plate in the shaft groove,
then insert the crosshead screws and tighten
them with an impact screwdriver.
3Support the front cover on blocks of wood and
drive out the old oil seal. Drive in the new seal
using a metal tube or socket (see illustrations).
Make sure that the sealing lip faces toward the
engine. Smear a little oil on the lip.
4If applicable cut the unwanted top half of a
new gasket and locate it on the cylinder block,
then fit the front cover and tighten the bolts.
5Refit the fuel pump and operating rod (when
applicable).
6Refit the distributor.
7Refit the auxiliary shaft sprocket and timing
belt.
41Auxiliary shaft - refitting
40Flywheel/driveplate and
adapter plate - refitting
39Sump - refitting
38Oil pump - refitting
2A•16SOHCengines
38.2 Priming the oil pump
40.4a Method of holding the flywheel when
tightening the bolts39.4 Sump bolt tightening sequence
For A and B see text40.4b Tightening a flywheel bolt
39.2 Locate the gasket tabs beneath the
sealing strips39.1a Applying sealing compound to a
rubber strip location39.1b Fitting the rubber strip into its groove
procarmanuals.com

If the crankcase ventilation oil separator was
removed, apply a liquid locking agent to its
tube before pressing it into the cylinder block.
1Make sure that the clutch is centred.
2Apply a smear of grease or anti-seize
compound to the gearbox input shaft splines.
3With the aid of an assistant, offer the
gearbox to the engine. If the input shaft is
reluctant to enter the clutch, rock the gearbox
slightly or turn the crankshaft back and forth.
Support the gearbox until it is engaged with
the dowels on the engine - do not leave it
hanging on the input shaft.4Refit the engine-to-bellhousing bolts, the
bracing strap and the starter motor.
1Sling the engine/gearbox unit so that it
hangs at an angle of approximately 45°.
2Lower the unit into the engine bay, at the
same time moving it towards the rear of the
vehicle. Have an assistant watch as the unit is
lowered to check that no pipes, wires etc are
fouled or trapped.
3Raise the gearbox as the engine is lowered
until the unit takes up its correct position.
Secure the engine bearers to the mountings
and refit the gearbox crossmember.
4The remainder of refitting is a reversal of the
removal procedure. Refer to Section 6. Also
refer to Section 49, paragraph 9.
5Before starting the engine, refer to Section 51.
1On manual gearbox models, check that the
clutch is centred correctly. Apply a smear of
grease or anti-seize compound to the gearbox
input shaft.
2On automatic transmission models, check
that the torque converter is fully engaged with
the transmission oil pump.
3Sling the engine so that it is roughly horizontal.Lift it and position it over the engine bay.
4Lower the engine into place. Have an
assistant watch as the unit is lowered to check
that no pipes, wires etc are fouled or trapped.
5Guide the engine onto the transmission,
raising or lowering the transmission slightly if
necessary. Do not place any weight on the
transmission input shaft. With manual gearbox
models, rock the engine gently from side to
side to encourage the input shaft to enter the
clutch.
6When the engine and transmission are fully
engaged, refit the engine-to-bellhousing bolts.
Do not overlook the earth strap.
7Lower the engine so that the engine bearers
engage with the mountings. Fit the mounting
nuts and remove the lifting tackle.
8On automatic transmission models, bolt the
torque converter to the driveplate.
9The remainder of refitting is a reversal of the
removal procedure. Note the following
additional points:
a)Refill the engine with oil
b)Check the transmission oil level if
necessary
c)Adjust the tension of the accessory
drivebelts
d)Adjust the throttle cable
e)Adjust the downshift cable when
applicable
f)Refill the cooling system
10Before starting the engine, see Section 51
49Engine - refitting without
gearbox/transmission
48Engine - refitting with manual
gearbox
47Engine and gearbox -
reconnection
SOHCengines 2A•19
2A
45.16 Holding the crankshaft pulley with
two bolts and a lever while tightening the
central bolt
45.13 Timing belt tension checking sequence
A No 1 at TDCB 60°BTDC for checkingC Return to TDC for adjustment
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See Chapter 1, Section 23.
1Make a final check to ensure that everything
has been reconnected to the engine and that no
rags or tools have been left in the engine bay.
2Check that oil and coolant levels are
correct.
3Start the engine. This may take a little longer
than usual as fuel is pumped up to the engine.
4Check that the oil pressure light goes out
when the engine starts.
5Run the engine at a fast tickover and check
for leaks of oil, fuel and coolant. Also check
power steering and transmission fluid cooler
unions, when applicable. Some smoke and
odd smells may be experienced as assembly
lubricant burns off the exhaust manifold and
other components.6Bring the engine to operating temperature.
Check the ignition timing then adjust the idle
speed (if applicable) and mixture.
7Stop the engine and allow it to cool, then re-
check the oil and coolant levels.
8If new bearings, pistons etc have been
fitted, the engine should be run in at reduced
speeds and loads for the first 500 miles (800
km) or so. It is beneficial to change the engine
oil and filter after this mileage.
1When engine performance is down, or if
misfiring occurs which cannot be attributed to
the ignition or fuel system, a compression test
can provide diagnostic clues. If the test is
performed regularly it can give warning of
trouble before any other symptoms become
apparent.
2The engine must be at operating
temperature, the battery must be fully charged
and the spark plugs must be removed. The
services of an assistant will also be required.
3Disable the ignition system by dismantlingthe coil LT feed. Fit the compression tester to
No 1 spark plug hole. (The type of tester which
screws into the spark plug hole is to be
preferred.)
4Have the assistant hold the throttle wide
open and crank the engine on the starter.
Record the highest reading obtained on the
compression tester.
5Repeat the test on the remaining cylinders,
recording the pressure developed in each.
6Desired pressures are given in the
Specifications. If the pressure in any cylinder
is low, introduce a teaspoonful of clean engine
oil into the spark plug hole and repeat the test.
7If the addition of oil temporarily improves
the compression pressure, this indicates that
bore or piston wear was responsible for the
pressure loss. No improvement suggests that
leaking or burnt valves, or a blown head
gasket, may be to blame.
8A low reading from two adjacent cylinders is
almost certainly due to the head gasket
between them having blown.
9On completion of the test, refit the spark
plugs and reconnect the coil LT feed.
52Compression test -
description and interpretation
51Initial start-up after overhaul
or major repair
50Valve clearances - checking
and adjustment
2A•20SOHCengines
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Chapter 2 Part B:
2.0 litre DOHC engine
Unless otherwise stated, procedures are as described for the SOHC engines in Part A of this Chapter
Camshafts and cam followers - removal, inspection and refitting . .21
Compression test - description and interpretation . . . . . . . . . . . . .35
Crankcase ventilation system - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . .2
Crankshaft and bearings - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . .31
Crankshaft and main bearings - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . .30
Crankshaft front oil seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23
Crankshaft rear oil seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
Cylinder head - dismantling and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19
Cylinder head - inspection and renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20
Cylinder head - removal and refitting (engine in vehicle) . . . . . . . . .17
Cylinder head - removal and refitting (engine removed) . . . . . . . . .18
Engine/automatic transmission assembly - reconnection and
refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Engine/automatic transmission assembly - removal and separation .8
Engine dismantling - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
Engine/manual gearbox assembly - reconnection and refitting . . . .11
Engine/manual gearbox assembly - removal and separation . . . . . .7
Engine mountings - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Engine reassembly - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33Engine - refitting (automatic transmission in vehicle) . . . . . . . . . . . .10
Engine - refitting (manual gearbox in vehicle) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Engine - removal leaving automatic transmission in vehicle . . . . . . .6
Engine - removal leaving manual gearbox in vehicle . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Examination and renovation - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . .32
Flywheel/driveplate - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . .22
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1
Initial start-up after overhaul or major repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34
Major operations possible with the engine in the vehicle . . . . . . . . .3
Major operations requiring engine removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
Oil pump - dismantling, inspection and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . .27
Oil pump drive chain and sprockets - examination and renovation .28
Oil pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26
Pistons and connecting rods - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . .29
Sump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25
Timing chain and sprockets - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .15
Timing chain, sprockets and tensioner - examination and
renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16
General
Manufacturer’s code:
Carburettor engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . N8B
Fuel-injection engine without catalyst . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . N9B
Fuel-injection engine with catalyst . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . N9D
Bore - mm (in) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.00 (3.386)
Stroke - mm (in) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.00 (3.386)
Cubic capacity - cc (cu in) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1998 (121.9)
Compression ratio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.3:1
Compression pressure at cranking speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 to 13 bar (160 to 189 lbf/in
2)
Maximum power (DIN, kW @ rpm):
N8B engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 @ 5600
N9B engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92 @ 5500
N9D engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 @ 5500
Maximum torque (DIN, Nm @ rpm):
N8B engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174 @ 3000
N9B engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174 @ 2500
N9D engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171 @ 2500
Lubrication system
Oil type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See “Lubricants and fluids”
Oil capacity:
With filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.5 litres (7.92 pints)
Without filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.0 litres (7.04 pints)
2B•1
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanicDifficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert
DIY or professional
Degrees of difficulty
Specifications Contents
2B
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DOHCengine 2B•3
2B
Torque wrench settingsNmlbf ft
Main bearing cap bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .90 to 10466 to 77
Big-end bearing cap bolts:
Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 to 84 to 6
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15 to 1711 to 13
Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Tighten further 85°to 95°Tighten further 85°to 95°
Crankshaft pulley bolt:
Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45 to 5833 to 43
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Tighten further 80°to 90°Tighten further 80°to 90°
Camshaft sprocket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55 to 6341 to 46
Flywheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .82 to 9261 to 68
Oil pump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 to 127 to 9
Oil pump sprocket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16 to 1912 to 14
Oil pump chain tensioner bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 to 137 to 10
Sump bolts and nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 to 106 to 7
Sump studs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 to 84 to 6
Sump drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21 to 2815 to 21
Sump front mounting plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23 to 2817 to 21
Oil baffle nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17 to 2113 to 15
Oil pick-up pipe-to-cylinder block bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 to 137 to 10
Oil pressure warning lamp switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18 to 2213 to 16
Cylinder head bolts:
M11 bolts:
Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2518
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5541
Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Tighten further 90°Tighten further 90°
Stage 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Tighten further 90°Tighten further 90°
M8 bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36 to 3927 to 29
Camshaft cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 to 84 to 6
Camshaft bearing cap nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22 to 2616 to 19
Lower timing chain guide:
Upper bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 to 137 to 10
Lower bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 to 2818 to 21
Upper and lower timing chain cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 to 105 to 7
Crankshaft rear oil seal housing bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 to 116 to 8
Engine-to-gearbox/transmission bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29 to 4121 to 30
The 2.0 litre DOHC (Double OverHead
Camshaft) engine was introduced in June
1989 to replace the 2.0 litre SOHC engine
used previously in the Granada range, at the
same time a 2.0 litre version of the Scorpio
model was also introduced. The engine is of
four-cylinder, in-line type.
The crankshaft incorporates five main
bearings. Thrustwashers are fitted to the
centre main bearing in order to control
crankshaft endfloat.
The camshafts are driven by a chain from
the crankshaft and operate the angled valves
via hydraulic cam followers. One camshaft
operates the inlet valves, and the other
operates the exhaust valves.
The distributor is driven directly from the
front of the inlet camshaft, and the oil pump is
driven by a chain from the crankshaft. An
electric fuel pump is mounted in the fuel tank.
Lubrication is by means of a bi-rotor pump
which draws oil through a strainer located
inside the sump, and forces it through a full-
flow filter into the engine oil galleries, from
where it is distributed to the crankshaft and
camshafts. The big-end bearings are supplied
with oil via internal drillings in the crankshaft.
The undersides of the pistons are suppliedwith oil from drillings in the connecting rods.
The hydraulic cam followers are supplied with
oil from passages in the cylinder head. The
camshafts are lubricated by oil from spray
tubes mounted above the camshaft bearing
caps.
A closed crankcase ventilation system is
employed, whereby piston blow-by gases are
drawn from the crankcase, through a breather
pipe into the inlet manifold where they are
burnt with fresh air/fuel mixture.The crankcase ventilation system (see
illustration)consists of an oil separator and
vent valve fitted to the cylinder block on the
left-hand side of the engine. This is connected
by a pipe to the inlet manifold. The system
operates according to the vacuum in the inlet
2Crankcase ventilation system -
general information1General information
2.1 Crankcase ventilation
system - fuel-injection engine
1 Inlet manifold connection
2 Inlet manifold
3 Breather pipe
4 Oil separator
5 Vent valve
6 Connecting hose
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27Remove the starter motor.
28Remove the exhaust downpipe.
29Ensure that the steering wheel is
positioned in the straight-ahead position then,
using a dab of paint or a suitable marker pen,
make alignment marks between the
intermediate shaft lower clamp and steering
gear pinion. Slacken and remove the lower
clamp bolt then disconnect the intermediate
shaft from the steering gear (see illustration).
30Working inside the vehicle, place a
wooden block under the clutch pedal to raise
it fully against the stop, so holding the
automatic adjuster pawl clear of the toothed
quadrant.
31Disconnect the clutch cable from the
clutch release arm, and pass the cable
through the bellhousing.
32Support the gearbox with a trolley jack,
using a block of wood between the jack and
the gearbox to spread the load.
33Unscrew and remove the remaining
engine-to-gearbox bolts, and remove the bolt
from the engine adapter plate (see
illustration). Recover any shims fitted
between the sump and the gearbox when
removing the lower engine-to-gearbox bolts.
34Make a final check to ensure that all
relevant wires, pipes and hoses have been
disconnected and positioned clear of the
engine to facilitate engine removal.
35Attach a suitable hoist to the engine lifting
brackets located at the front and rear of the
cylinder head, and carefully take the weight of
the engine.
36To improve clearance in the engine
compartment when lifting the engine, unbolt
the engine mounting brackets from the
cylinder block, and remove them (see
illustration).
37Detach the brake lines from the front
suspension crossmember (see illustration).
38Support the crossmember with a jack (do
not remove the jack from under the gearbox),
then loosen the bolts securing the
crossmember to the underbody. Remove the
bolts from one side, and carefully lower the
crossmember to allow sufficient room for the
sump to clear the steering rack and
crossmember when pulling the engine
forwards from the gearbox (see illustration).39Gently raise the engine, then pull it
forwards to disconnect it from the gearbox.
Ensure that the gearbox is adequately
supported, and take care not to strain the
gearbox input shaft.
40Once clear of the gearbox, lift the engine
from the vehicle, taking care not to damage
the components in the engine compartment.
Note:Refer to Part A, Section 4 of this
Chapter and to the warning that appears at the
start of Section 5 before proceeding. A
suitable hoist and lifting tackle will be required
for this operation.
1Proceed as described in paragraphs 1 to 21
of Section 5.
2Unscrew and remove the top engine-to-
transmission bolts which are accessible from
the engine compartment. Note the location of
the earth strap, vacuum pipe bracket, and
transmission dipstick tube bracket, as
applicable.
3Proceed as described in paragraphs 23 to 29
of Section 5.4Where applicable, remove the bolt securing
the transmission fluid dipstick tube to the left-
hand side of the cylinder block.
5Working through the starter motor aperture,
unscrew the four torque converter-to-
driveplate nuts. It will be necessary to turn the
crankshaft, using a suitable spanner on the
crankshaft pulley bolt, in order to gain access
to each bolt in turn through the aperture.
6Support the transmission with a trolley jack,
using a block of wood between the jack and
the transmission to spread the load.
7Unscrew and remove the remaining engine-
to-transmission bolts, and remove the bolt
from the engine adapter plate. Recover any
shims fitted between the sump and the
transmission when removing the lower engine-
to-transmission bolts. Where applicable, pull
the blanking plug from the adapter plate.
8Proceed as described in paragraphs 34 to 38
of Section 5.
9Gently raise the engine, then pull the engine
forwards to disconnect it from the
transmission. Ensure that the torque converter
is held firmly in place in the transmission
housing, otherwise it could fall out resulting in
fluid spillage and possible damage. It may be
necessary to rock the engine a little to release
it from the transmission.
10Once clear of the transmission, lift the
engine from the vehicle, taking care not to
damage the components in the engine
compartment.
6Engine - removal leaving
automatic transmission in vehicle
DOHCengine 2B•5
2B
5.29 Intermediate shaft lower clamp bolt
(arrowed)5.33 Engine adaptor plate bolt (arrowed)5.36 Remove the engine mounting brackets
to improve clearance
5.37 Removing a brake line securing clip
from the suspension crossmember5.38 Removing a suspension crossmember
securing bolt
It may be necessary to rock
the engine a little to release it
from the gearbox.
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