fuse FORD MONDEO 1993 Service Owner's Manual

Mix up a little filler on a clean piece of card
or board - measure the hardener carefully
(follow the maker’s instructions on the pack),
otherwise the filler will set too rapidly or too
slowly. Using the applicator, apply the filler
paste to the prepared area; draw the
applicator across the surface of the filler to
achieve the correct contour and to level the
surface. As soon as a contour that
approximates to the correct one is achieved,
stop working the paste - if you carry on too
long, the paste will become sticky and begin
to “pick-up” on the applicator. Continue to
add thin layers of filler paste at 20-minute
intervals, until the level of the filler is just
proud of the surrounding bodywork.
Once the filler has hardened, the excess
can be removed using a metal plane or file.
From then on, progressively-finer grades of
abrasive paper should be used, starting with a
40-grade production paper, and finishing with
a 400-grade wet-and-dry paper. Always wrap
the abrasive paper around a flat rubber, cork,
or wooden block - otherwise the surface of
the filler will not be completely flat. During the
smoothing of the filler surface, the wet-and-
dry paper should be periodically rinsed in
water. This will ensure that a very smooth
finish is imparted to the filler at the final stage.
At this stage, the “dent” should be
surrounded by a ring of bare metal, which in
turn should be encircled by the finely
“feathered” edge of the good paintwork.
Rinse the repair area with clean water, until all
of the dust produced by the rubbing-down
operation has gone.
Spray the whole area with a light coat of
primer - this will show up any imperfections in
the surface of the filler. Repair these
imperfections with fresh filler paste or
bodystopper, and once more smooth the
surface with abrasive paper. Repeat this
spray-and-repair procedure until you are
satisfied that the surface of the filler, and the
feathered edge of the paintwork, are perfect.
Clean the repair area with clean water, and
allow to dry fully.
The repair area is now ready for final
spraying. Paint spraying must be carried out
in a warm, dry, windless and dust-free
atmosphere. This condition can be created
artificially if you have access to a large indoor
working area, but if you are forced to work in
the open, you will have to pick your day very
carefully. If you are working indoors, dousing
the floor in the work area with water will help
to settle the dust which would otherwise be in
the atmosphere. If the repair area is confined
to one body panel, mask off the surrounding
panels; this will help to minimise the effects ofa slight mis-match in paint colours. Bodywork
fittings (eg chrome strips, door handles etc)
will also need to be masked off. Use genuine
masking tape, and several thicknesses of
newspaper, for the masking operations.
Before commencing to spray, agitate the
aerosol can thoroughly, then spray a test area
(an old tin, or similar) until the technique is
mastered. Cover the repair area with a thick
coat of primer; the thickness should be built
up using several thin layers of paint, rather
than one thick one. Using 400-grade wet-and-
dry paper, rub down the surface of the primer
until it is really smooth. While doing this, the
work area should be thoroughly doused with
water, and the wet-and-dry paper periodically
rinsed in water. Allow to dry before spraying
on more paint.
Spray on the top coat, again building up the
thickness by using several thin layers of paint.
Start spraying at one edge of the repair area,
and then, using a side-to-side motion, work
until the whole repair area and about 2 inches
of the surrounding original paintwork is
covered. Remove all masking material 10 to
15 minutes after spraying on the final coat of
paint.
Allow the new paint at least two weeks to
harden, then, using a paintwork renovator, or
a very fine cutting paste, blend the edges of
the paint into the existing paintwork. Finally,
apply wax polish.
Plastic components
With the use of more and more plastic body
components by the vehicle manufacturers (eg
bumpers. spoilers, and in some cases major
body panels), rectification of more serious
damage to such items has become a matter
of either entrusting repair work to a specialist
in this field, or renewing complete
components. Repair of such damage by the
DIY owner is not really feasible, owing to the
cost of the equipment and materials required
for effecting such repairs. The basic technique
involves making a groove along the line of the
crack in the plastic, using a rotary burr in a
power drill. The damaged part is then welded
back together, using a hot-air gun to heat up
and fuse a plastic filler rod into the groove.
Any excess plastic is then removed, and the
area rubbed down to a smooth finish. It is
important that a filler rod of the correct plastic
is used, as body components can be made of
a variety of different types (eg polycarbonate,
ABS, polypropylene).
Damage of a less serious nature (abrasions,
minor cracks etc) can be repaired by the DIY
owner using a two-part epoxy filler repair
material. Once mixed in equal proportions,
this is used in similar fashion to the bodywork
filler used on metal panels. The filler is usually
cured in twenty to thirty minutes, ready for
sanding and painting.
If the owner is renewing a complete
component himself, or if he has repaired it
with epoxy filler, he will be left with theproblem of finding a suitable paint for finishing
which is compatible with the type of plastic
used. At one time, the use of a universal paint
was not possible, owing to the complex range
of plastics encountered in body component
applications. Standard paints, generally
speaking, will not bond to plastic or rubber
satisfactorily. However, it is now possible to
obtain a plastic body parts finishing kit which
consists of a pre-primer treatment, a primer
and coloured top coat. Full instructions are
normally supplied with a kit, but basically, the
method of use is to first apply the pre-primer
to the component concerned, and allow it to
dry for up to 30 minutes. Then the primer is
applied, and left to dry for about an hour
before finally applying the special-coloured
top coat. The result is a correctly-coloured
component, where the paint will flex with the
plastic or rubber, a property that standard
paint does not normally posses.
Where serious damage has occurred, or
large areas need renewal due to neglect, it
means that complete new panels will need
welding-in; this is best left to professionals. If
the damage is due to impact, it will also be
necessary to check completely the alignment
of the bodyshell; this can only be carried out
accurately by a Ford dealer, using special jigs.
If the body is left misaligned, it is primarily
dangerous, as the car will not handle properly,
and secondly, uneven stresses will be
imposed on the steering, suspension and
possibly transmission, causing abnormal wear
or complete failure, particularly to items such
as the tyres.
Removal
Front bumper
1Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of
the vehicle and support it on axle stands.
2Where applicable, remove the foglights
from the front bumper (Chapter 12).
3Where applicable, disconnect the tubing
from the headlight washer jets.
4Unscrew the screws securing the wheel
arch liners to the front bumper (see
illustration).
5Unscrew the bumper mounting nuts, and
withdraw the bumper forwards from the
vehicle, at the same time disconnecting the
guides from the side pins (see illustrations).
Rear bumper
6Chock the front wheels, jack up the rear of
the vehicle and support it on axle stands.
6 Bumpers - removal and refitting
5 Major body damage - repair
11•4 Bodywork and fittings
If bodystopper is used, it can
be mixed with cellulose
thinners, to form a really thin
paste which is ideal for filling
small holes.
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Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(Chapter 5, Section 1).
2Remove the windscreen wiper arms
(Chapter 12), then remove the cowl from just
in front of the windscreen. The cowl is in two
sections, with retaining screws located along
its front edge. With the cowl removed,
disconnect the speedometer cable by pulling
it from the intermediate inner cable extension.
3Remove the centre console (Section 30),
then unscrew the screws and remove the
heater side covers (see illustrations).
4Remove the steering column (Chapter 10).
5Remove the instrument panel (Chapter 12).
6Where fitted, unscrew the screws and
remove the automatic warning system
display.
7Remove the radio and (if fitted) the CD
player (Chapter 12).
8Remove the heater control panel (Chap-
ter 3).
9Using a screwdriver, carefully prise out the
headlight switch panel, and disconnect the
wiring multi-plugs.
10Remove the glovebox (Section 32).
11Remove the small piece of carpet from
under the passenger side of the facia.
12Remove the side trim panels from the “A”and “B” pillars on each side of the vehicle
(Section 29). The upper panels on the “B”
pillars can be left in position.
13At the base of the right-hand “A” pillar,
disconnect the wiring multi-plugs, earth leads
and aerial, noting their fitted positions.
14Identify the position of the wiring multi-
plugs on the fusebox, then disconnect them.
15Disconnect the wiring from the footwell
lights, where fitted.
16Prise out the speedometer cable rubber
grommet at the bulkhead near the pedal
bracket, then release the cable from the clips.
17Remove the screws and withdraw the
glovebox side trim, for access to the side
facia mounting screw.
18Open the front doors. Prise off the trim
covers, then pull away the door weatherstrip
by the side mounting bolt positions on each
side (see illustrations).
19Unscrew the facia side mounting bolts.
20Unscrew the facia centre mounting bolts
(see illustrations).
21Withdraw the facia from the bulkhead, far
enough to be able to reach in behind it.
22Disconnect the remaining multi-plugs and
connections, noting their locations on the
various components for correct refitting. It will
also be necessary to release some wiring
loom holders, clips and plastic ties, and the
fresh air vent hoses (see illustration).
23Withdraw the facia from one side of the
vehicle.
33 Facia - removal and refitting
Bodywork and fittings 11•23
11
33.20B Facia mounting bolt next to the
glovebox33.20C Facia centre mounting bolt next to
the heater panel33.20D Facia mounting bolt near the
heater
33.3A Unscrew the screws . . .33.3B . . . and remove the heater side
covers33.18A Prise off the covers . . .
33.18B . . . and pull away the weatherstrip
to reveal the facia mounting bolts
33.20A Facia mounting bolt positions (left-
hand-drive shown, right-hand-drive
similar)
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Chapter 12 Body electrical system
Air bag clock spring - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Air bag control module - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
Air bag unit (driver’s side) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Anti-theft alarm system - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Auxiliary warning system - general information and
component renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Battery - check, maintenance and charging . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Battery - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 5
Bulbs (exterior lights) - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Bulbs (interior lights) - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Clock - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Compact disc player - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Cruise control system - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Electrical fault finding - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Electrical system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Exterior light units - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Fuses, relays and timer module - testing and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . 3
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Headlight beam alignment - checking and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . 8
Headlight levelling motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9Horn - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Instrument panel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Instrument panel components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Radio aerial - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Radio/cassette player - coding, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Radio/cassette player power amplifier - removal and refitting . . . . . 24
Speakers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Speedometer drive cable - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Stop-light switch - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 9
Switches - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Tailgate wiper motor assembly - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . 17
TCS inhibition switch - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . See Chapter 9
Trip computer module - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Windscreen/tailgate washer system and wiper blade
check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Windscreen/tailgate washer system components - removal
and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Windscreen wiper motor and linkage - removal and refitting . . . . . . 16
Wiper arms - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Fuses (auxiliary fusebox in engine compartment)
Note:Fuse ratings and circuits are liable to change from year to year. Consult the handbook supplied with the vehicle, or consult a Ford dealer,
for specific information.
Fuse No Rating Colour Circuit(s) protected
1 80 Black . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Power supply to main fusebox
2 60 Yellow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Radiator electric cooling fans
3 60 Yellow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Diesel engine glow plugs and/or ABS braking system
4 20 Yellow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ignition system, or ignition and daytime running lights
5 30 Light green . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Heated windscreen (left-hand side)
6 30 Light green . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Heated windscreen (right-hand side)
7 30 Light green . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ABS braking system
8 30 Light green . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Air conditioning compressor/heated seats or air conditioning
compressor/daytime running lights
9 20 Light blue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ECU (petrol), Cold start solenoid (Diesel)
10 20 Light blue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ignition switch
11 3 Violet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ECU memory
12 15 Light blue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Horn and hazard flasher warning system
13 15 Light blue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Oxygen sensor
14 15 Light blue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Fuel pump
15 10 Red . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dipped beam headlight (right-hand side)
16 10 Red . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dipped beam headlight (left-hand side)
17 10 Red . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Main beam headlight (right-hand side)
18 10 Red . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Main beam headlight (left-hand side)
12•1
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,suitable
for competent DIY
mechanicDifficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
Specifications Contents
12
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Fuses (main fusebox in passenger compartment)
Note:Fuse ratings and circuits are liable to change from year to year. Consult the handbook supplied with the vehicle, or consult a Ford dealer,
for specific information.
Fuse Rating Colour Circuit(s) protected
19 7.5 Brown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Heated door mirrors
20 10 Black . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Front/rear wiper motor (circuit breaker)
21 30 Light green . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Front electric windows (only)
21 40 Orange . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Front and rear electric windows
22 7.5 Brown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ABS module
23 15 Light blue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Reversing lights
24 15 Light blue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Stop-lights
25 20 Yellow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Central locking system/double-locking/anti-theft alarm
26 20 Yellow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Foglights
27 15 Light blue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cigar lighter
28 30 Light green . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Headlight washer system
29 30 Light green . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Heated rear window
30 7.5 Brown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Interior lighting and auxiliary warning system
31 7.5 Brown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Instrument panel illumination
32 7.5 Brown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Radio
33 7.5 Brown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Front and rear sidelights (left-hand side)
34 7.5 Brown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Interior lighting and digital clock
35 7.5 Brown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Front and rear sidelights (right-hand side)
36 30 Light green . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Air bag
37 30 Light green . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Heater blower
38 7.5 Brown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Adaptive damping
Relays (auxiliary fusebox in engine compartment)
Relay Colour Circuit(s) protected
R1 Green . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Daytime running lights (left-hand-drive, but not all countries) or dim-
dip lights (UK)
R2 Black . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Radiator electric cooling fan (high speed)
R3 Blue (petrol) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Air conditioning cut-out
R3 Brown (Diesel) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Air conditioning in conjunction with Diesel engine
R4 Yellow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Windscreen heater time delay
R5 Dark green (petrol) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Radiator electric cooling fan (low speed)
R5 Black (Diesel) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Radiator electric cooling fan (low speed)
R6 Yellow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Starter solenoid
R7 Brown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Horns
R8 Brown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Fuel pump
R9 White . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dipped beam headlights
R10 White . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Main beam headlights
R11 Brown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ECU power supply (petrol), cold start (Diesel)
Relays (main fusebox in passenger compartment)
Relay Colour Circuit(s) protected
R12 White . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Interior, courtesy and footwell lights
R13 Yellow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Heated rear window
R14 Yellow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Heater blower
R15 Green . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Windscreen wiper motor
R16 Black . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ignition
Auxiliary relays (not in the fuseboxes)
Relay Colour Circuit(s) protected Location
R17 Black . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Diesel glow plug Battery tray
R18 Black . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . “One-touch down” Driver’s door
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . driver’s window relay
R19 Blue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Speed control cut-off Central fuse box bracket the
below instrument panel
R20 Blue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Headlight washer system Bulb module bracket
R21 Orange . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Rear screen wiper interval Bulb module bracket
R22 White . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Foglights (left-hand-drive only) Interface module bracket
R23 Black . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Direction indicators Steering column
R24 White . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Anti-theft alarm (left-hand side) Door lock module bracket
R25 White . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Anti-theft alarm (right-hand side) Door lock module bracket
R26 Black . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Heated seats Door lock module bracket
12•2 Body electrical system
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compartment, but on Estate models, it is on
the right-hand side.
Some models are fitted with a headlight
levelling system, which is controlled by a knob
on the facia. On position “0”, the headlights
are in their base position, and on position “5”,
the headlights are in their maximum inclined
angle.
It should be noted that, when portions of
the electrical system are serviced, the cable
should be disconnected from the battery
negative terminal, to prevent electrical shorts
and fires.
Caution: When disconnecting the
battery for work described in the
following Sections, refer to
Chapter 5, Section 1.
Note:Refer to the precautions given in
“Safety first!” and in Section 1 of this Chapter
before starting work. The following tests relate
to testing of the main electrical circuits, and
should not be used to test delicate electronic
circuits (such as engine management systems,
anti-lock braking systems, etc), particularly
where an electronic control module is used.
Also refer to the precautions given in Chapter
5, Section 1.
General
1A typical electrical circuit consists of an
electrical component, any switches, relays,
motors, fuses, fusible links or circuit breakers
related to that component, and the wiring and
connectors which link the component to both
the battery and the chassis. To help to
pinpoint a problem in an electrical circuit,
wiring diagrams are included at the end of this
manual.
2Before attempting to diagnose an electrical
fault, first study the appropriate wiring
diagram, to obtain a complete understanding
of the components included in the particular
circuit concerned. The possible sources of a
fault can be narrowed down by noting if other
components related to the circuit are
operating properly. If several components or
circuits fail at one time, the problem is likely to
be related to a shared fuse or earth
connection.
3Electrical problems usually stem from
simple causes, such as loose or corroded
connections, a faulty earth connection, a
blown fuse, a melted fusible link, or a faulty
relay (refer to Section 3 for details of testing
relays). Visually inspect the condition of all
fuses, wires and connections in a problem
circuit before testing the components. Use
the wiring diagrams to determine which
terminal connections will need to be checked
in order to pinpoint the trouble-spot.
4The basic tools required for electrical fault-
finding include a circuit tester or voltmeter (a
12-volt bulb with a set of test leads can alsobe used for certain tests); an ohmmeter (to
measure resistance and check for continuity);
a battery and set of test leads; and a jumper
wire, preferably with a circuit breaker or fuse
incorporated, which can be used to bypass
suspect wires or electrical components.
Before attempting to locate a problem with
test instruments, use the wiring diagram to
determine where to make the connections.
5To find the source of an intermittent wiring
fault (usually due to a poor or dirty
connection, or damaged wiring insulation), a
“wiggle” test can be performed on the wiring.
This involves wiggling the wiring by hand to
see if the fault occurs as the wiring is moved.
It should be possible to narrow down the
source of the fault to a particular section of
wiring. This method of testing can be used in
conjunction with any of the tests described in
the following sub-Sections.
6Apart from problems due to poor
connections, two basic types of fault can
occur in an electrical circuit - open-circuit, or
short-circuit.
7Open-circuit faults are caused by a break
somewhere in the circuit, which prevents
current from flowing. An open-circuit fault will
prevent a component from working.
8Short-circuit faults are caused by a “short”
somewhere in the circuit, which allows the
current flowing in the circuit to “escape” along
an alternative route, usually to earth. Short-
circuit faults are normally caused by a
breakdown in wiring insulation, which allows a
feed wire to touch either another wire, or an
earthed component such as the bodyshell. A
short-circuit fault will normally cause the
relevant circuit fuse to blow.
Finding an open-circuit
9To check for an open-circuit, connect one
lead of a circuit tester or the negative lead of a
voltmeter either to the battery negative
terminal or to a known good earth.
10Connect the other lead to a connector in
the circuit being tested, preferably nearest to
the battery or fuse. At this point, battery
voltage should be present, unless the lead
from the battery or the fuse itself is faulty
(bearing in mind that some circuits are live
only when the ignition switch is moved to a
particular position).
11Switch on the circuit, then connect the
tester lead to the connector nearest the circuit
switch on the component side.
12If voltage is present (indicated either by
the tester bulb lighting or a voltmeter reading,
as applicable), this means that the section of
the circuit between the relevant connector
and the switch is problem-free.
13Continue to check the remainder of the
circuit in the same fashion.
14When a point is reached at which no
voltage is present, the problem must lie
between that point and the previous test point
with voltage. Most problems can be traced to
a broken, corroded or loose connection.
Finding a short-circuit
15To check for a short-circuit, first
disconnect the load(s) from the circuit (loads
are the components which draw current from
a circuit, such as bulbs, motors, heating
elements, etc).
16Remove the relevant fuse from the circuit,
and connect a circuit tester or voltmeter to the
fuse connections.
17Switch on the circuit, bearing in mind that
some circuits are live only when the ignition
switch is moved to a particular position.
18If voltage is present (indicated either by
the tester bulb lighting or a voltmeter reading,
as applicable), this means that there is a
short-circuit.
19If no voltage is present during this test,
but the fuse still blows with the load(s)
reconnected, this indicates an internal fault in
the load(s).
Finding an earth fault
20The battery negative terminal is
connected to “earth” - the metal of the
engine/transmission unit and the vehicle body
- and many systems are wired so that they
only receive a positive feed, the current
returning via the metal of the car body. This
means that the component mounting and the
body form part of that circuit. Loose or
corroded mountings can therefore cause a
range of electrical faults, ranging from total
failure of a circuit, to a puzzling partial failure.
In particular, lights may shine dimly (especially
when another circuit sharing the same earth
point is in operation), motors (eg wiper motors
or the radiator cooling fan motor) may run
slowly, and the operation of one circuit may
have an apparently-unrelated effect on
another. Note that on many vehicles, earth
straps are used between certain components,
such as the engine/transmission and the
body, usually where there is no metal-to-
metal contact between components, due to
flexible rubber mountings, etc.
21To check whether a component is
properly earthed, disconnect the battery (refer
to Chapter 5, Section 1) and connect one lead
of an ohmmeter to a known good earth point.
Connect the other lead to the wire or earth
connection being tested. The resistance
reading should be zero; if not, check the
connection as follows.
22If an earth connection is thought to be
faulty, dismantle the connection, and clean
both the bodyshell and the wire terminal (or
the component earth connection mating
surface) back to bare metal. Be careful to
remove all traces of dirt and corrosion, then
use a knife to trim away any paint, so that a
clean metal-to-metal joint is made. On
reassembly, tighten the joint fasteners
securely; if a wire terminal is being refitted,
use serrated washers between the terminal
and the bodyshell, to ensure a clean and
secure connection. When the connection is
2 Electrical fault finding -
general information
12•4 Body electrical system
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remade, prevent the onset of corrosion in the
future by applying a coat of petroleum jelly or
silicone-based grease, or by spraying on (at
regular intervals) a proprietary ignition sealer
such as Holts Damp Start, or a water-
dispersant lubricant such as Holts Wet Start.
Note:It is important to note that the ignition
switch and the appropriate electrical circuit
must always be switched off before any of the
fuses (or relays) are removed and renewed. In
the event of the fuse/relay unit having to be
removed, the battery earth lead must be
disconnected. When reconnecting the battery,
reference should be made to Chapter 5.
1Fuses are designed to break a circuit when
a predetermined current is reached, in order
to protect components and wiring which
could be damaged by excessive current flow.
Any excessive current flow will be due to a
fault in the circuit, usually a short-circuit (see
Section 2). The main fusebox, which also
carries some relays, is located inside the
vehicle below the facia panel on the
passenger’s side, and is accessed by a lever
behind the glovebox (see illustration).
2A central timer module is located on the
bottom of the main fusebox. This module
contains the time control elements for the
heated rear window, interior lights and
intermittent wiper operation. The module also
activates a warning buzzer/chime when the
vehicle is left with the lights switched on, or if
a vehicle fitted with automatic transmission is
not parked in position “P”.
3The auxiliary fusebox is located on the front
left-hand side of the engine compartment,
and is accessed by unclipping and removing
the cover. The auxiliary fusebox also contains
some relays (see illustration). Each circuit is
identified by numbers on the main fusebox
and on the inside of the auxiliary fusebox
cover. Reference to the fuse chart in the
Specifications at the start of this Chapter will
indicate the circuits protected by each fuse.
Plastic tweezers are attached to the main
fusebox and to the inside face of the auxiliary
fuse and block cover, to remove and fit the
fuses and relays.
4To remove a fuse, use the tweezers
provided to pull it out of the holder. Slide the
fuse sideways from the tweezers. The wire
within the fuse is clearly visible, and it will be
broken if the fuse is blown (see illustration).
5Always renew a fuse with one of an
identical rating. Never substitute a fuse of a
higher rating, or make temporary repairs using
wire or metal foil; more serious damage, or
even fire, could result. The fuse rating is
stamped on top of the fuse. Never renew a
fuse more than once without tracing the
source of the trouble.
6Spare fuses of various current ratings areprovided in the cover of the auxiliary fusebox.
Note that if the vehicle is to be laid up for a
long period, fuse 34 in the main fusebox
should be removed, to prevent the ancillary
electrical components from discharging the
battery.
7Relays are electrically-operated switches,
which are used in certain circuits. The various
relays can be removed from their respective
locations by carefully pulling them from the
sockets. Each relay in the fuseboxes has a
plastic bar on its upper surface to enable the
use of the tweezers. The locations and
3 Fuses, relays and timer
module- testing and renewal
Body electrical system 12•5
12
3.4 The fuses can be checked visually to
determine if they are blown
3.1 Main fusebox layout
1 Fuse/relay removal tweezers 2 Diode 3 Multi-plug connections
3.3 Auxiliary fusebox layout
1 Fuses 1 to 3 3 Relays R2, R5 and R6 5 Relay sockets for relays R1 and R4
2 Fuses 4 to 8, 11 to 14 4 Relays R7 to R11 6 Diode
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functions of the various relays are given in the
Specifications (see illustration).
8If a component controlled by a relay
becomes inoperative and the relay is suspect,
listen to the relay as the circuit is operated. If
the relay is functioning, it should be possible
to hear it click as it is energized. If the relay
proves satisfactory, the fault lies with the
components or wiring of the system. If the
relay is not being energized, then either the
relay is not receiving a switching voltage, or
the relay itself is faulty. (Do not overlook the
relay socket terminals when tracing faults.)
Testing is by the substitution of a known good
unit, but be careful; while some relays are
identical in appearance and in operation,
others look similar, but perform different
functions.9The central timer module located on the
bottom of the main fusebox incorporates its
own self-diagnosis function. Note that
diagnosis cannot take place if the heated rear
window is defective.
10To activate the system, press the heated
rear window button while the ignition is being
switched on, then release the button. Operate
the light switch, washer pump switch and all
of the door switches one after the other, and
check that the buzzer confirms that the input
signals are correct.
11Now move the wiper lever to the
intermittent wipe position, and check the
output signals by operating the same
switches.
12The self-diagnosis function is turned off
by switching the ignition off and on again.
Removal
Ignition switch and lock barrel
1Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).
2Remove the rubber gaiters and locking
rings, then remove the securing screws and
take off the steering column upper and lower
shrouds.
3Insert the ignition key, and turn it to the
accessory position. Using a small screwdriver
or twist drill through the hole in the side of the
lock housing, depress the locking plunger and
withdraw the lock barrel (see illustrations).
4The switch may be removed from the
steering column assembly by disconnecting
the multi-plug, then using a screwdriver to
release the switch retaining tab (see
illustrations).
Windscreen wiper multi-function
switch
5Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).
6Remove the rubber gaiters and locking
rings, then remove the securing screws and
take off the steering column upper shroud.
7Disconnect the multi-plug (see illustration).
8Depress the plastic tab with a screwdriver,
and lift the switch assembly from the steering
column (see illustrations).
4 Switches - removal and refitting
12•6 Body electrical system
3.7 “One-touch down” window relay in the
driver’s door4.3A Depress the locking plunger . . .4.3B . . . and withdraw the ignition lock
barrel
4.7 Disconnecting the multi-plug from the
windscreen wiper multi-function switch4.8A Depress the plastic tab with a
screwdriver . . .
4.4A Release the retaining tab . . .4.4B . . . and remove the ignition switch
4.8B . . . and remove the windscreen wiper
multi-function switch
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32Twist the bulbholder anti-clockwise using
a screwdriver, then remove the bulbholder
from the rear of the clock (see illustrations).
Heater control illumination
33Remove the heater control panel (Chapter
3), then twist the bulbholder anti-clockwise
and remove the bulb from the rear of the
panel.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).
Headlight unit
2With the bonnet supported in its open
position, loosen (but do not remove) the screw
located above the front direction indicator.
3Withdraw the front direction indicator unit
forwards, and disconnect the wiring multi-
plug. Place the unit to one side.
4Disconnect the wiring multi-plug for the
headlight unit (see illustration).
5Remove the radiator grille as described in
Chapter 11.
6Remove the front bumper as described in
Chapter 11.
7The headlights fitted from new are a single
unit, joined by a plastic back-piece running
across the front of the vehicle. However, if it is
required to renew a headlight unit on one sideonly, the back-piece must first be removed
complete, then cut in half on the bench.
8Unscrew the mounting bolts from each side
of the headlight unit, and withdraw the unit
from the front of the vehicle (see
illustrations). Use a hacksaw to cut through
the centre of the headlight unit (ie between the
two headlights), and obtain a connecting kit
from a Ford dealer to attach the new unit.
9If necessary, the lens may be removed
separately by releasing the clips (see
illustrations). To remove the diffuser, release
the clips, then remove the rubber seal.
Front direction indicator
10With the bonnet supported in its open
position, loosen (but do not remove) the screw
7 Exterior light units -
removal and refitting
12•12 Body electrical system
6.32A Twist the bulbholder
anti-clockwise . . .6.32B . . . and remove it from the rear of
the clock7.4 Disconnecting the headlight unit
wiring multi-plug
7.8D Using a hacksaw to cut through the
middle of the headlight back-piece, in
order to fit a new unit7.9A Release the clips . . .7.9B . . . and remove the headlight lens
7.8A Unscrew the outer mounting
screws . . .7.8B . . . and inner mounting screws . . .7.8C . . . and withdraw the headlight unit
assembly
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2Where fitted, remove the clock as
described in Section 13.
3Where fitted, remove the trip computer
module as described in Section 18.
4Remove the heated rear window switch as
described in Section 4.
5Where fitted, remove the heated
windscreen switch.
6Where fitted, remove the display assembly
warning indicator for the foglights (see
illustration).
7Remove any blanking covers from the
unused switch positions (see illustration).
8Prise out the blanking covers, then unscrew
the retaining screws and remove the
instrument panel surround (see illustrations).
9Unscrew the mounting screws, andwithdraw the instrument panel a little way
from the facia (see illustration).
10Disconnect the two multi-plugs from the
rear of the instrument panel (see illustration).
11Withdraw the instrument panel from the
facia, at the same time releasing the
speedometer intermediate cable.
Refitting
12Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure.
Removal
1Remove the warning light and illumination
bulbs by twisting them anti-clockwise (see
illustration).
2Carefully prise off the glass and bezel from
the front of the instrument panel, noting the
positions of the retaining lugs (see
illustration).
3Note the positions of the five diffusers, then
remove them from the instrument panel.
4To remove the speedometer head, unscrew
the three mounting screws and withdraw the
head from the housing.
5To remove the tachometer, unscrew the
single screw and withdraw it from the
housing.
11 Instrument panel
components-
removal and refitting
12•14 Body electrical system
10.6 Removing the foglight warning
indicator10.7 Removing a switch blanking cover10.8A With the blanking covers removed,
unscrew the concealed screws . . .
10.10 Disconnecting the multi-plugs from
the rear of the instrument panel11.1 Rear view of the instrument panel,
showing bulbholders11.2 Bezel retaining lug on the instrument
panel
10.8C . . . and lift out the instrument panel
surround10.9 Three of the instrument panel
mounting screws (arrowed)
10.8B . . . and the remaining screws . . .
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REF•4
Whenever servicing, repair or overhaul work
is carried out on the car or its components, it
is necessary to observe the following
procedures and instructions. This will assist in
carrying out the operation efficiently and to a
professional standard of workmanship.
Joint mating faces and gaskets
When separating components at their
mating faces, never insert screwdrivers or
similar implements into the joint between the
faces in order to prise them apart. This can
cause severe damage which results in oil
leaks, coolant leaks, etc upon reassembly.
Separation is usually achieved by tapping
along the joint with a soft-faced hammer in
order to break the seal. However, note that
this method may not be suitable where
dowels are used for component location.
Where a gasket is used between the mating
faces of two components, ensure that it is
renewed on reassembly, and fit it dry unless
otherwise stated in the repair procedure.
Make sure that the mating faces are clean and
dry, with all traces of old gasket removed.
When cleaning a joint face, use a tool which is
not likely to score or damage the face, and
remove any burrs or nicks with an oilstone or
fine file.
Make sure that tapped holes are cleaned
with a pipe cleaner, and keep them free of
jointing compound, if this is being used,
unless specifically instructed otherwise.
Ensure that all orifices, channels or pipes
are clear, and blow through them, preferably
using compressed air.
Oil seals
Oil seals can be removed by levering them
out with a wide flat-bladed screwdriver or
similar implement. Alternatively, a number of
self-tapping screws may be screwed into the
seal, and these used as a purchase for pliers
or some similar device in order to pull the seal
free.
Whenever an oil seal is removed from its
working location, either individually or as part
of an assembly, it should be renewed.
The very fine sealing lip of the seal is easily
damaged, and will not seal if the surface it
contacts is not completely clean and free from
scratches, nicks or grooves.
Protect the lips of the seal from any surface
which may damage them in the course of
fitting. Use tape or a conical sleeve where
possible. Lubricate the seal lips with oil before
fitting and, on dual-lipped seals, fill the space
between the lips with grease.
Unless otherwise stated, oil seals must be
fitted with their sealing lips toward the
lubricant to be sealed.
Use a tubular drift or block of wood of the
appropriate size to install the seal and, if the
seal housing is shouldered, drive the seal
down to the shoulder. If the seal housing is
unshouldered, the seal should be fitted with
its face flush with the housing top face (unless
otherwise instructed).
Screw threads and fastenings
Seized nuts, bolts and screws are quite a
common occurrence where corrosion has set
in, and the use of penetrating oil or releasing
fluid will often overcome this problem if the
offending item is soaked for a while before
attempting to release it. The use of an impact
driver may also provide a means of releasing
such stubborn fastening devices, when used
in conjunction with the appropriate
screwdriver bit or socket. If none of these
methods works, it may be necessary to resort
to the careful application of heat, or the use of
a hacksaw or nut splitter device.
Studs are usually removed by locking two
nuts together on the threaded part, and then
using a spanner on the lower nut to unscrew
the stud. Studs or bolts which have broken off
below the surface of the component in which
they are mounted can sometimes be removed
using a proprietary stud extractor. Always
ensure that a blind tapped hole is completely
free from oil, grease, water or other fluid
before installing the bolt or stud. Failure to do
this could cause the housing to crack due to
the hydraulic action of the bolt or stud as it is
screwed in.
When tightening a castellated nut to accept
a split pin, tighten the nut to the specified
torque, where applicable, and then tighten
further to the next split pin hole. Never slacken
the nut to align the split pin hole, unless stated
in the repair procedure.
When checking or retightening a nut or bolt
to a specified torque setting, slacken the nut
or bolt by a quarter of a turn, and then
retighten to the specified setting. However,
this should not be attempted where angular
tightening has been used.
For some screw fastenings, notably cylinder
head bolts or nuts, torque wrench settings are
no longer specified for the latter stages of
tightening, “angle-tightening” being called up
instead. Typically, a fairly low torque wrench
setting will be applied to the bolts/nuts in
the correct sequence, followed by one or
more stages of tightening through specified
angles.
Locknuts, locktabs and washers
Any fastening which will rotate against a
component or housing in the course of
tightening should always have a washer
between it and the relevant component or
housing.
Spring or split washers should always be
renewed when they are used to lock a critical
component such as a big-end bearing
retaining bolt or nut. Locktabs which are
folded over to retain a nut or bolt should
always be renewed.
Self-locking nuts can be re-used in non-
critical areas, providing resistance can be felt
when the locking portion passes over the bolt
or stud thread. However, it should be noted
that self-locking stiffnuts tend to lose theireffectiveness after long periods of use, and in
such cases should be renewed as a matter of
course.
Split pins must always be replaced with
new ones of the correct size for the hole.
When thread-locking compound is found
on the threads of a fastener which is to be re-
used, it should be cleaned off with a wire
brush and solvent, and fresh compound
applied on reassembly.
Special tools
Some repair procedures in this manual
entail the use of special tools such as a press,
two or three-legged pullers, spring
compressors, etc. Wherever possible, suitable
readily-available alternatives to the
manufacturer’s special tools are described,
and are shown in use. Unless you are highly-
skilled and have a thorough understanding of
the procedures described, never attempt to
bypass the use of any special tool when the
procedure described specifies its use. Not
only is there a very great risk of personal
injury, but expensive damage could be
caused to the components involved.
Environmental considerations
When disposing of used engine oil, brake
fluid, antifreeze, etc, give due consideration to
any detrimental environmental effects. Do not,
for instance, pour any of the above liquids
down drains into the general sewage system,
or onto the ground to soak away. Many local
council refuse tips provide a facility for waste
oil disposal, as do some garages. If none of
these facilities are available, consult your local
Environmental Health Department for further
advice.
With the universal tightening-up of
legislation regarding the emission of
environmentally-harmful substances from
motor vehicles, most current vehicles have
tamperproof devices fitted to the main
adjustment points of the fuel system. These
devices are primarily designed to prevent
unqualified persons from adjusting the fuel/air
mixture, with the chance of a consequent
increase in toxic emissions. If such devices
are encountered during servicing or overhaul,
they should, wherever possible, be renewed
or refitted in accordance with the vehicle
manufacturer’s requirements or current
legislation.
Note: It is
antisocial and
illegal to dump
oil down the
drain. To find
the location of
your local oil
recycling
bank, call this
number free.
General Repair Procedures
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