wiring FORD SIERRA 1983 1.G Braking System Workshop Manual

8Open the bleed screw half a turn and have
your assistant depress the brake pedal slowly
to the floor and then, after the bleed screw is
retightened, quickly remove his foot to allow
the pedal to return unimpeded. Repeat the
procedure.
9Observe the submerged end of the tube in
the jar. When air bubbles cease to appear,
tighten the bleed screw when the pedal is
being held fully down by your assistant.
10Top-up the fluid reservoir. It must be kept
topped up throughout the bleeding
operations. If the connecting holes to the
master cylinder are exposed at any time due
to low fluid level, then air will be drawn into
the system and work will have to start all over
again.
11Assuming that the complete system is
being bled, the procedure described in the
preceding paragraphs should be repeated on
the front right-hand caliper followed by the
rear right-hand and left-hand wheel cylinders.
12On completion, remove the bleed tube,
and discard the fluid which has been bled
from the system unless it is required for bleed
jar purposes. Never re-use old fluid.
13On completion of bleeding, top-up the
fluid level in the reservoir. Check the action of
the brake pedal, which should be firm and free
from any “sponginess” which would indicate
that air is still present in the system.
With one-way valve
14There are a number of one-man brake
bleeding kits currently available from motor
accessory shops. It is recommended that one
of these kits should be used whenever
possible, as they greatly simplify the bleeding
operation and also reduce the risk of expelled
air or fluid being drawn back into the system.
15Proceed as described in paragraphs 5
and 6.
16Open the bleed screw half a turn then
depress the brake pedal to the floor and
slowly release it. The one-way valve in the
bleeder device will prevent expelled air from
returning to the system at the completion of
each stroke. Repeat this operation until clear
hydraulic fluid, free from air bubbles, can be
seen coming through the tube. Tighten the
bleed screw.
17Proceed as shown in paragraphs 11 to 13.
With pressure bleeding kit
18These too are available from motor
accessory shops and are usually operated by
air pressure from the spare tyre.
19By connecting a pressurised container to
the master cylinder fluid reservoir, bleeding is
then carried out by simply opening each bleed
screw in turn and allowing the fluid to run out,
rather like turning on a tap, until no air bubbles
are visible in the fluid being expelled.
20Using this system, the large reserve of
fluid provides a safeguard against air being
drawn into the master cylinder during the
bleeding operations.21This method is particularly effective when
bleeding “difficult” systems or when bleeding
the entire system at time of routine fluid
renewal.
22Begin bleeding with reference to
paragraphs 5 and 6 and proceed as described
in paragraphs 11 to 13.
1Keep the fluid reservoir replenished
throughout the bleeding operations.
2Remove the dust cap where fitted, and
clean around the bleed screw on the left-hand
front caliper. Fit a bleed tube to the screw and
immerse the open end in a jar containing
clean hydraulic fluid.
3Open the bleed valve one full turn and have
an assistant depress the brake pedal fully and
hold it down.
4Close the bleed valve and release the brake
pedal. Repeat the procedure until fluid ejected
from the end of the tube is free from air
bubbles.
5Repeat the operations on the right-hand
front caliper.
6Fit the bleed tube to the left-hand rear
caliper and open the bleed valve one full turn.
7Have an assistant depress the brake pedal
fully and hold it down.
8Switch on the ignition to position ll.
9Allow the fluid to bleed from the tube for at
least 15 seconds, when the fluid should be
free from air bubbles.
10Close the bleed valve.
11Release the brake pedal and wait for the
hydraulic pump to stop.
12Fit the bleed tube to the right-hand rear
caliper and open the bleed valve one full turn.
13Have your assistant depress the brake
pedal through half its travel and hold it there.
Allow the fluid to bleed from the tube for at
least 15 seconds, when the fluid should be
free from air bubbles.
14Close the bleed valve.
15Release the brake pedal and wait for the
hydraulic pump to stop then switch off the
ignition.
16Top-up the reservoir with clean fluid.
17When the hydraulic system is being bled
for the purpose of renewing the fluid at the
specified interval, as each caliper is bled,
operate the brake pedal continuously until
clean fluid is seen to enter the jar.
18When the hydraulic pump is running its
note will be heard to change once fluid has
purged through it. Do not allow the pump torun continuously for more than two minutes. If
it does run for a longer period, switch off the
ignition and allow the motor to cool for ten
minutes.
19On completion, discard the fluid which
has been bled from the system unless it is
required for bleed jar purposes. Never re-use
old fluid.
20Check the action of the brake pedal,
which should be firm and free from any
“sponginess”, which would indicate that air is
still present in the system.
Front disc pads
1The disc pad friction material can be
inspected for wear without removing the
roadwheels. Working beneath the vehicle,
insert a mirror between the caliper and the
roadwheel and check that the friction material
thickness is not less than the minimum given
in the Specifications.
2If any one of the pads has worn below the
specified limit, the front pads must be
renewed as an axle set (4 pads).
3To renew the pads, slacken the front
roadwheel nuts, apply the handbrake, then
jack up the front of the vehicle and support on
axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle
Support”). Remove the roadwheels. On P100
models, mark the position of the roadwheels
in relation to the wheel studs before removal.
4Proceed as follows according to model:
Girling caliper (1.3 and early 1.6 litre
models)
5Where applicable, disconnect the wiring to
the disc pad wear sensor.
6Unscrew and remove the bolt from the
upper caliper guide pin while holding the pin
stationary with a spanner (see illustration).
7Swing the caliper downwards and lift out
the disc pads. If the outboard pad is stuck to
4Disc pads -inspectionand
renewal
3Brake hydraulic system (ABS)
- bleeding
Braking system 10•3
10
4.6 Unscrewing the bolt from the upper
caliper guide pin - Girling caliper
Caution: Refer to the
precautions in Section 1.
Caution: The rear brake
hydraulic circuit may be under
considerable pressure, take
care not to allow hydraulic fluid
to spray into the face or eyes. Refer to the
precautions in Section 1.

the caliper, free it using a screwdriver with the
guide pin bolt fitted, as shown (see
illustration). Do not use a screwdriver to free
the inboard pad, as this may damage the
piston dust seal. The inboard pad can be
freed by hand after lowering the caliper.
8Brush all dust and dirt from the caliper,
pads and disc, but do not inhale it as it may
be injurious to health. Scrape any corrosion
from the disc.
9As the new pads will be thicker than the old
ones, the piston must be pushed squarely into
its bore to accommodate the new thicker
pads. Depressing the piston will cause the
fluid level in the reservoir to rise so to avoid
spillage, syphon out some fluid using an old
hydrometer or a teat pipette. Do not lever
between the piston and disc to depress the
piston ideally a spreader tool, applying equal
force to both sides of the caliper, should be
used (see illustration).
10Further refitting is a reversal of removal
bearing in mind the following points.
11If disc pads with wear sensors are fitted,
the pad with the sensor wire should be fitted
inboard.
12Ensure that the anti-rattle clips are
correctly located on the caliper.
13Repeat the procedure on the opposite
front brake.
14On completion, apply the footbrake hard
several times to settle the pads, then check
and if necessary top-up the fluid level in the
reservoir. 15Avoid heavy braking, if possible, for the
first hundred miles or so after fitting new
pads. This will allow the pads to bed in and
reach full efficiency.
Teves caliper (Later 1.6, 1.8 and 2.0
litre models)
16Prise the retaining clip from the caliper.
Hold it with a pair of pliers to avoid it causing
personal injury.
17Unclip the pad wear sensor from the
caliper, and disconnect the wiring plug (see
illustration).
18Using a 7 mm Allen key, unscrew and
remove the two guide bolts securing the
caliper to the carrier bracket, and withdraw
the caliper (see illustration). Support the
caliper on an axle stand to avoid straining the
hydraulic hose.19Withdraw the disc pads from the caliper
(see illustration). It may be necessary to prise
the outboard pad with a screwdriver to
release it from the caliper. Do not use a
screwdriver to free the inboard pad, as this
may damage the piston dust seal.
20Proceed as described in paragraphs 8 to
15 inclusive, but in addition ensure that the
clip on the back of the inboard pad fits into
the piston recess (see illustration), refit the
caliper retaining clip, and ignore the reference
to the anti-rattle clips (see illustration). On
P100 models align the previously made marks
on the roadwheels and wheel studs.
Late model modification
21On some later models, slightly revised
front brake components are used. A new type
of retaining clip is used to secure the pads in
10•4Braking system
4.7 Correct and incorrect methods of freeing stuck outboard disc pad. Guide pin bolt (A)
must be in position - Girling caliper
4.9 Using a spreader tool to depress the
caliper piston into its bore
4.19 Withdraw the disc pads from the
caliper - Teves caliper4.18 Withdrawing a caliper from its carrier
bracket - Teves caliper
4.17 Disconnect the pad wear sensor
wiring plug - Teves caliper

the caliper, and the caliper body is modified
accordingly. Also, plastic covers are fitted to
the caliper guide bolts (see illustrations).
22Procedures are unchanged from those
given above.
Rear disc pads
23Slacken the rear roadwheel nuts, chock
the front wheels, then jack up the rear of the
vehicle and support on axle stands. (see
“Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Remove the
roadwheel.
24The disc pads can be inspected through
the top of the caliper after removal of the
blanking spring clip. Check that the friction
material thickness is not less than the
minimum given in the Specifications.
25If any one of the pads has worn below the
specified limit, the rear pads must be renewedas an axle set (4 pads).
26To renew the pads, proceed as follows.
27Release the handbrake, and free the
handbrake cable from the suspension lower
arm by bending back the tangs.
28Where applicable, disconnect the wiring
to the disc pad wear sensor (see illustration).
29Unscrew and remove the bolt from the
forward caliper guide pin, while holding the
pin stationary with a spanner (see
illustration).
30Swing the caliper rearwards and lift out
the disc pads (see illustration). Do not
depress the brake pedal with the caliper
removed.
31Brush all dirt and dust from the caliper,
pads and disc, but do not inhale it as it may
be injurious to health. Scrape any corrosion
from the disc.32As the new pads will be thicker than the
old ones, the piston must be retracted into its
bore to accommodate the new thicker pads.
Retracting the piston will cause the fluid level
in the reservoir to rise, so to avoid spillage,
syphon out some fluid using an old
hydrometer or a teat pipette. Retract the
caliper piston by turning it clockwise. Ford
tool No 12-006 is designed for this purpose,
but a pair of circlip pliers or any similar tool
can be used instead (see illustration).
33Remove the backing paper from the new
pads, and fit them to the caliper.
34Further refitting is a reversal of removal,
bearing in mind the following points.
35If disc pads with wear sensors are fitted,
the pad with the sensor wire should be fitted
inboard.
36Repeat the procedure on the opposite
rear brake.
37On completion, switch on the ignition and
apply the footbrake hard several times to
settle the pads. Switch off the ignition, then
check and if necessary top-up the fluid level in
the reservoir. Check the operation of the
handbrake.
38Avoid heavy braking, if possible, for the
first hundred miles or so after fitting new
pads. This will allow the pads to bed in and
reach full efficiency.
Braking system 10•5
10
4.21a Later type front disc pad retaining
clip
4.32 Retracting the piston using circlip
pliers4.30 Lift out the disc pads
4.28 Rear disc pad wear sensor wiring clip
(arrowed)
4.29 Unscrewing the forward caliper guide
pin bolt
4.21b Removing a caliper guide bolt cover
- later type
4.20b Refitting the caliper retaining clip -
Teves caliper4.20a The clip on the back of the inboard
disc pad fits into the piston recess - Teves
caliper

Note: Complete dismantling of the rear caliper
should not be attempted unless Ford spring
compressor (tool No 12-007) is available, or
unless the problems likely to arise in the
absence of the tool are understood. Renewal
of the piston seal dust-excluding seal and
piston adjuster nut seal requires no special
tools.
Removal
1With the ignition switched off, pump the
brake pedal at least 20 times, or until it
becomes hard, to depressurise the system.
2Chock the front wheels, slacken the
relevant roadwheel nuts, then jack up the rear
of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see
“Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Remove the
roadwheel and release the handbrake.
3Where applicable, disconnect the wiring to
the disc pad wear sensor.
4Proceed as described in Section 6,
paragraphs 2 and 3, but note that the rigid
brake pipe is clipped to the suspension lower
arm.
5Unscrew and remove the two guide bolts
securing the caliper to the carrier bracket,
while holding the pins with a spanner. Unhookthe handbrake cable from the lever, and
withdraw the caliper. Alternatively, the two
carrier bracket-to-hub carrier bolts can be
unscrewed, and the caliper and carrier can be
separated on the bench, but in this case the
handbrake cable must be disconnected from
the carrier bracket by removing the retaining
circlip.
Overhaul
6Clean the caliper, taking care not to inhale
any dust which may be injurious to health, and
mount it in a soft-jawed vice.
7Rotate the piston anti-clockwise, using
Ford tool No 12-006, or a pair of circlip pliers
or similar tool, until it protrudes from the
caliper bore by approximately 20.0 mm (0.8
in). Free the dust-excluding seal from the
groove in the piston, then continue
unscrewing the piston and remove it. Remove
and discard the dust-excluding seal.
8The piston and bore may now be cleaned
and examined as described in Section 6,
paragraph 12.
9The piston adjuster nut seal should be
renewed as follows.
10Remove the circlip from the piston, then
extract the thrustwashers, wave washer and
thrust bearing. Note the fitted sequence of
these components. Finally remove the nut
(see illustrations).
11Remove the seal from the nut, noting
which way round it is fitted. Clean the nut with
methylated spirit. Lubricate the new seal with
clean hydraulic fluid and fit it to the nut.12If no further dismantling is required,
proceed to paragraph 20.
13For further dismantling it is virtually
essential to have Ford tool 12-007 in order to
compress the adjuster spring. This tool
appears to be a cut-down adjuster nut with a
handle for turning it. In the workshop it was
found that the actual piston adjuster nut could
be used to compress the spring if it were
turned with circlip pliers (see illustration).
This works well enough for dismantling, but
reassembly proved extremely difficult
because of the limited clearance between the
skirt of the nut and the caliper bore.
14Having compressed the adjuster spring
just enough to take the load off the circlip,
release the circlip inside the caliper bore.
Remove the spring compressor, then extract
the circlip, spring cover, spring and washer
(see illustrations).
7Rear disc caliper - removal,
overhaul and refitting
10•10Braking system
7.10a Remove the circlip from the rear
caliper piston . . .7.10c . . . a wave washer and (not shown)
another thrustwasher . . .
7.14a Extract the circlip from the caliper
bore . . .
7.13 Using the piston adjuster nut to
compress the adjuster spring7.10e . . . and finally the adjuster nut itself.
Note the seal (arrowed) on the nut7.10d . . . then the thrust bearing . . .
7.10b . . . followed by the thrustwasher . . .
Caution: Refer to the
precautions in Section 1.

3Remove the wheel cylinder.
4Remove the driveshaft but do not refit the
securing bolts to the backplate.
5Remove the backplate.
6If required, prise out the handbrake stop
button.
7Refitting is a reversal of removal.
P 100 models
Note: When refitting the backplate, a new rear
hub nut and driveshaft O-ring must be used.
8Proceed as described in paragraphs 1 to 3
inclusive.
9Remove the driveshaft.
10Relieve the staking on the rear hub nut,
and using a 50 mm socket and a suitable
extension bar, unscrew the nut. Note that the
nut is extremely tight.
11Pull off the hub.
12Unscrew the six retaining nuts and
remove the backplate and the oil baffle (see
illustration).
13If required, prise out the handbrake stop
button.
14Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points.
15When refitting the backplate and the oil
baffle, coat the area of the oil baffle shown
(see illustration - Chapter 9) with sealant to
Ford spec SPM-4G-9112-F, then refit the
baffle and the backplate to the axle, tightening
the six securing nuts to the specified torque.
16Use a new rear hub nut, and tighten to the
specified torque. Stake the nut into the groove
in the axle tube after tightening.
17Refit the driveshaft, using a new O-ring.
Note: A suitable puller will be required to
remove the drive flange, and a new rear hub
nut must be used on reassembly.
Removal
1Loosen the rear hub nut with the vehicle
resting on its wheels. Note that the left-hand
nut has a left-hand thread, ie it is undone in a
clockwise direction. Before loosening the nut,
ensure that the handbrake is applied, and
chock the relevant rear wheel. A suitable
extension bar will be required, as the nut is
extremely tight.
2Loosen the relevant rear roadwheel nuts,
chock the front wheels, then jack up the rear
of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see
“Jacking and Vehicle Support”).Remove the
roadwheel and release the handbrake.
3Free the handbrake cable from its clip on
the suspension lower arm.
4Unscrew the two caliper carrier
bracket-to-hub carrier bolts, and remove the
caliper, supporting it on an axle stand to avoid
straining the flexible hose.
5Mark the position of the brake disc in
relation to the drive flange, remove the
retaining spire washer(s), and remove the
disc.
6Unscrew and remove the rear hub nut, and
using a suitable puller, pull off the drive flange.
7Unscrew the four bolts securing the hub
carrier and splash shield to the lower arm.
Remove the hub carrier and splash shield,
whilst supporting the driveshaft. Support the
driveshaft by placing axle stands underneath
it, or by securing with string to the underbody.
Avoid bending the driveshaft joints to
excessive angles, and do not allow the shaft
to hang down from one end.
Refitting
8Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing in
mind the following points.
9When reassembling the drive flange and the
hub carrier, fit the drive flange to the hub
carrier in order to centralise the bearings, then
using a soft-faced mallet, drive the drive
flange/hub carrier assembly onto the end of
the stub axle.10Refit the hub carrier/splash
shield-to-lower arm securing bolts. Note that
there are two types of bolts used to secure
the rear hub carrier to the lower arm. The two
types of bolt must not be mixed on a vehicle
but can be changed in complete sets for the
alternative type. A complete set is eight bolts,
four each side. Note that the two types of bolt
have different torque wrench settings. When
renewing the wheel bearings a suitable puller
will be required to remove the drive flange,
and a new rear hub nut must be used on
reassembly.
11When refitting the brake disc, align the
previously made marks on disc and drive
flange.
12Fit a new rear hub nut of the correct type,
and tighten it with the vehicle resting on its
roadwheels. Apply the handbrake and chock
the relevant rear wheel when finally tightening
the hub nut.
Note: Before commencing overhaul obtain a
repair kit containing new pistons and seals.
Removal
1Depress the brake pedal several times to
dissipate the vacuum in the servo.
2Disconnect the wiring plug from the low
fluid level switch on the fluid reservoir cap
(see illustration).
3Place a suitable container beneath the
master cylinder, then unscrew the union nuts
and disconnect the two fluid pipes. Plug the
ends of the pipes to prevent dirt ingress.
13Master cylinder (conventional
braking system) - removal,
overhaul and refitting
12Rear disc splash shield -
removal and refitting
Braking system 10•13
10
13.2 Disconnect the wiring plug from the low fluid level switch
(arrowed)11.12 Brake backplate and oil baffle retaining nuts
Caution: Refer to the
precautions in Section 1.
Caution: Refer to the
precautions in Section 1.

Note: New seals must be used between the
reservoir and the hydraulic unit on reassembly.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Depressurise the hydraulic system by
pumping the brake pedal at least 20 times, or
until it becomes hard.
3Disconnect the wiring multi-plugs from the
reservoir cap and remove the cap.
4Unscrew the reservoir securing screw, and
remove the securing clip, noting that the clip
also supports the clutch cable (see illustration).5Prepare a suitable container to collect the
fluid as the hydraulic unit is drained, then
remove the securing spring clip and
disconnect the low pressure fluid hose from
the pump (see illustrations). Allow the fluid to
drain out of the hose into the container. If fluid
is accidentally spilt on the paintwork, wash off
immediately with cold water.
6Pull the reservoir out of the seals on the
hydraulic unit and remove it (see illustration).
7Note the spigot locating bush on the rear
hydraulic unit inlet, which may stay in the
hydraulic unit or may come out with the
reservoir (see illustration).
Refitting
8Refitting is a reversal of removal, but use
new seals between the reservoir and the
hydraulic unit.
9On completion, bleed the complete
hydraulic system and check for leaks around
all disturbed components.Note: A new gasket must be used between
the hydraulic unit and the bulkhead on
refitting.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Depressurise the hydraulic system by
pumping the brake pedal at least 20 times, or
until it becomes hard.
3Disconnect the six multi-plugs from the
hydraulic unit. They are all different, so there
is no need to label them. When a plug has a
spring clip retainer, lift the clip before pulling
out the plug. To release the pump plug, pull
back the rubber boot and the plug sleeve (see
illustrations).
4Unbolt the earth strap from the unit.
5Prepare a suitable container to catch spilt
fluid. Mark the hydraulic pipes so that they
can be refitted in their original positions, then
disconnect them from the base of the unit.
Plug the open ends of the pipes and hydraulic
unit to prevent fluid leakage and dirt ingress. If
fluid is accidentally spilt on the paintwork,
wash off immediately with cold water.
6Working inside the vehicle, remove the
lower facia panel from the driver’s side.
16Hydraulic unit (ABS)
- removal and refitting
15Fluid reservoir (ABS)
- removal and refitting
Braking system 10•15
10
15.5b . . . and disconnect the low pressure
fluid hose - ABS
16.3c . . . and the pressure switch
multi-plug - ABS16.3b . . . the main valve multi-plug . . .16.3a Disconnecting the low fluid level
switch multi-plug . . .
15.7 Removing the spigot locating bush
from the rear hydraulic unit inlet - ABS15.6 Removing the fluid reservoir from the
hydraulic unit - ABS
15.5a Remove the securing spring clip . . .15.4 Reservoir securing clip (arrowed) also
supports clutch cable - ABS
Caution: Refer to the
precautions in Section 1.
Caution: Refer to the
precautions in Section 1.

4Withdraw the module, and disconnect the
multi-plug (see illustration).
Refitting
5Refitting is a reversal of removal but on
completion check the operation of the ABS
warning lamp as described in the
manufacturer’s handbook.
Note: A new O-ring must be used when
refitting a sensor.
Front wheel sensor
1Apply the handbrake, loosen the relevant
front roadwheel nuts, then jack up the front of
the vehicle and support on axle stands (see
“Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Remove the
roadwheel.
2Working under the bonnet, unclip the ABS
wiring loom from the chassis side member,
and disconnect the wheel sensor wiring plug.
3Unscrew the mounting bolt and withdraw
the sensor (see illustration).
4Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing in
mind the following points.
5Clean the bore in the hub carrier, and smear
the bore and the sensor with lithium based
grease.
6Use a new O-ring seal when refitting the
sensor.
Rear wheel sensor
7Chock the front wheels, loosen the relevant
rear roadwheel nuts, then jack up the rear of
the vehicle and support on axle stands.
Release the handbrake and remove the
roadwheel.
8Working inside the vehicle, lift up the rear
seat cushion, then remove the side kick panel
and fold the carpet forwards to gain access to
the wheel sensor wiring plug (see
illustrations).
9Remove the wiring plug from its clip, and
disconnect it.
10Prise out the floor panel grommet, then
feed the sensor wiring through the floor panel.
11Free the handbrake cable from its clip on
the suspension lower arm.12Where applicable, disconnect the wiring
to the disc pad wear sensor.
13Unscrew and remove the bolt from the
forward caliper guide pin, while holding the
pin stationary with a spanner.
14Swing the caliper rearwards to gain
access to the wheel sensor.
15Unscrew the bolt securing the sensor to
its mounting bracket.
16Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points.
17Clean the bore in the sensor mounting
bracket, and smear the bore and the sensor
with lithium based grease.
18Use a new O-ring seal when refitting the
sensor.
Removal
1The deceleration sensitive valve is located
on the left-hand side of the engine
compartment (see illustrations).
2Place a suitable container beneath the
valve to catch spilt fluid, then unscrew the
union nuts and disconnect the fluid pipes.Plug the open ends of the pipes and valve to
prevent fluid leakage and dirt ingress. If fluid is
accidentally spilt on the paintwork, wash off
immediately with cold water.
3On early models, the valve is secured to the
mounting bracket on the inner wing by a
single bolt. Unscrew the bolt and remove the
valve.
4On later models, the valve is secured to the
mounting bracket by a clip. Remove the clip
and slide out the valve.
Refitting
5Refitting is a reversal of removal, but note
that the early type of valve must be fitted with
the cover bolts facing forwards, and the later
type of valve must be fitted with the smaller
diameter stepped end facing forwards.
6On completion, bleed the rear hydraulic
circuit.
23Deceleration sensitive valve
(all models with conventional
braking system)
- removal and refitting
22Wheel sensor (ABS)
- removal and refitting
10•18Braking system
21.4 Withdraw the module and disconnect
the multi-plug - ABS22.8a Remove the side kick panel
(securing screws arrowed) for access to
the rear wheel sensor wiring plug - ABS
23.1b Later type deceleration sensitive
valve23.1a Early type deceleration sensitive
valve
22.8b Rear wheel sensor wiring plug
(arrowed) - ABS
22.3 Unscrew the mounting bolt and
withdraw the front wheel sensor - ABS
Caution: Refer to the
precautions in Section 1.

Removal
1Chock the rear wheels, jack up the front of
the vehicle and support on axle stands.
Release the handbrake. Disconnect the
battery negative lead.
2Slacken the handbrake cable adjuster.
3Extract the securing circlip and pivot pin,
and detach the handbrake equaliser from the
linkage on the underbody (see illustration).
4Working inside the vehicle, remove the
handbrake lever rubber gaiter and/or the
centre console, as necessary.
5Disconnect the wiring connector from the
handbrake “on” warning switch. 6Unscrew the two handbrake lever mounting
bolts, and carefully lift the lever through the
underfloor gaiter.
7If required, the handbrake “on” warning
switch can be removed.Refitting
8Refitting is a reversal of removal, but on
completion, adjust the handbrake cable.
Removal
1Remove the clutch pedal as described in
Chapter 6.
2Extract the inboard circlip from the brake
pedal end of the pivot shaft (see illustration).3The brake pedal can now be removed from
the pedal bracket by sliding out the pivot
shaft, noting the position of any washers and
spacers which may be fitted.
4If desired, the nylon bushes can be prised
from each side of the pedal for renewal, and
the brake lamp switch removed.
Refitting
5Refitting is a reversal of removal, fitting any
washers and spacers in their original
positions. Refit the clutch pedal.
30Brake pedal - removal and
refitting
29Handbrake lever -removal
andrefitting
10•22Braking system
29.3 Handbrake equaliser and linkage on underbody30.2 Extract the inboard circlip (arrowed) to remove the pedal
pivot shaft