change time FORD SIERRA 1984 1.G Routine Manintenance And Servicing Workshop Manual

General information
This Chapter is designed to help the home
mechanic maintain his/her vehicle for safety,
economy, long life and peak performance.
The Chapter contains a master
maintenance schedule, followed by Sections
dealing specifically with each task in the
schedule. Visual checks, adjustments,
component renewal and other helpful items
are included. Refer to the accompanying
illustrations of the engine compartment and
the underside of the vehicle for the locations
of the various components.
Servicing your vehicle in accordance with
the mileage/time maintenance schedule and
the following Sections will provide a planned
maintenance programme, which should result
in a long and reliable service life. This is a
comprehensive plan, so maintaining some
items but not others at the specified service
intervals, will not produce the same results.
As you service your vehicle, you will discover
that many of the procedures can - and should -
be grouped together, because of the particular
procedure being performed, or because of the
close proximity of two otherwise-unrelated
components to one another. For example, if
the vehicle is raised for any reason, the exhaust
can be inspected at the same time as thesuspension and steering components.
The first step in this maintenance
programme is to prepare yourself before the
actual work begins. Read through all the
Sections relevant to the work to be carried
out, then make a list and gather together all
the parts and tools required. If a problem is
encountered, seek advice from a parts
specialist, or a dealer service department.
Intensive maintenance
If, from the time the vehicle is new, the
routine maintenance schedule is followed
closely, and frequent checks are made of fluid
levels and high-wear items, as suggested
throughout this manual, the engine will be
kept in relatively good running condition, and
the need for additional work will be minimised.
It is possible that there will be times when
the engine is running poorly due to the lack of
regular maintenance. This is even more likely
if a used vehicle, which has not received
regular and frequent maintenance checks, is
purchased. In such cases, additional work
may need to be carried out, outside of the
regular maintenance intervals.
If engine wear is suspected, a compression
test will provide valuable information
regarding the overall performance of the main
internal components. Such a test can be used
as a basis to decide on the extent of the work
to be carried out. If, for example, a
compression test indicates serious internal
engine wear, conventional maintenance as
described in this Chapter will not greatlyimprove the performance of the engine, and
may prove a waste of time and money, unless
extensive overhaul work is carried out first.
The following series of operations are those
most often required to improve the
performance of a generally poor-running
engine:
Primary operations
a)Clean, inspect and test the battery
b)Check all the engine-related fluids
c)Check the condition and tension of the
auxiliary drivebelt
d)Renew the spark plugs
e)Inspect the distributor cap and HT leads -
as applicable
f)Check the condition of the air cleaner
filter element, and renew if necessary
g)Renew the fuel filter
h)Check the condition of all hoses, and
check for fluid leaks
i)Check the idle speed and mixture settings
- as applicable
If the above operations do not prove fully
effective, carry out the following secondary
operations:
Secondary operations
a)Check the charging system
b)Check the ignition system
c)Check the fuel system
d)Renew the distributor cap and rotor arm -
as applicable
f)Renew the ignition HT leads - as
applicable
2Introduction
See “Weekly checks”.
See “Weekly checks”.See “Weekly checks”.
See “Weekly checks”.See “Weekly checks”.
7Wiper blade check
6Battery electrolyte level check
5Electrical system check
4Tyre checks
3Fluid level checks
1Frequent oil and filter changes are the most
important preventative maintenance
procedures which can be undertaken by the
DIY owner. As engine oil ages, it becomes
diluted and contaminated, which leads to
premature engine wear.
2Before starting this procedure, gather
together all the necessary tools and materials.
Also make sure that you have plenty of clean
rags and newspapers handy, to mop up any
spills. Ideally, the engine oil should be warm,
as it will drain better, and more built-upsludge will be removed with it. Take care,
however, not to touch the exhaust or any
other hot parts of the engine when working
under the vehicle. To avoid any possibility of
scalding, and to protect yourself from
possible skin irritants and other harmful
contaminants in used engine oils, it is
advisable to wear gloves when carrying out
this work. Access to the underside of the
vehicle will be greatly improved if it can be
raised on a lift, driven onto ramps, or jacked
up and supported on axle stands (see
“Jacking and vehicle support”). Whichever
method is chosen, make sure that the vehicle
remains level, or if it is at an angle, so that the
drain plug is at the lowest point (see
illustration).
8Engine oil and filter renewal
Maintenance procedures 1•9
1
8.2 Sump drain plug location
Every 250 miles (400 km) or weekly
Every 6000 miles (10 000 km) or 6 months

25Start the engine and run it at 3000 rpm for
15 seconds, ensuring that all electrical loads
(headlamps, heater blower etc) are switched
off, then allow the engine to idle and check
the CO content. Note that the CO reading will
initially rise, then fall and finally stabilise.
26If adjustment is necessary, remove the
tamperproof cap from the base of the airflow
meter, and turn the mixture screw using a
suitable Allen key to give the specified CO
content (see illustration).
27Checking and adjustment should be
completed within 30 seconds of the meter
readings stabilising. If this has not been
possible, run the engine at 3000 rpm, for 15
seconds, then allow the engine to idle. Re-
check the CO content and carry out further
adjustment if necessary.
28On completion of adjustment, stop the
engine and disconnect the tachometer and
exhaust gas analyser. Fit a new tamperproof
cap to the mixture screw.2.0 litre DOHC models
29On models with a catalytic converter, the
mixture is controlled by the EEC IV module.
No manual adjustment is possible.
30On models without a catalytic converter,
the idle mixture can be adjusted as follows:
31Run the engine until it is at normal
operating temperature.
32Stop the engine, and connect a
tachometer and an exhaust gas analyser in
accordance with the equipment
manufacturer’s instructions.
33Start the engine and run it at 3000 rpm for
15 seconds, ensuring that all electrical loads
(headlamps, heater blower, etc) are switched
off. Allow the engine to idle, and check the CO
content. Note that the reading will initially rise,
then fall and finally stabilise.
34If adjustment is necessary, remove the
cover from the mixture adjustment
potentiometer (located at the rear right-handside of the engine compartment, behind the
MAP sensor), and turn the screw to give the
specified CO content (see illustrations).
35If adjustment does not produce a change
in reading, the potentiometer may be at the
extreme of its adjustment range. To centralise
the potentiometer, turn the adjustment screw
20 turns clockwise followed by 10 turns anti-
clockwise, then repeat the adjustment proce-
dure.
36Checking and adjustment should be
completed within 30 seconds of the meter
readings stabilising. If this has not been
possible, run the engine at 3000 rpm for 15
seconds, then allow the engine to idle. Re-
check the CO content, and carry out further
adjustments if necessary.
37On completion of adjustment, stop the
engine, and disconnect the tachometer and
the exhaust gas analyser. Refit the cover to
the adjustment screw.
1Fluid level should be checked with the
transmission at operating temperature (after a
run) and with the vehicle parked on level
ground.
2Open and prop the bonnet. With the engine
idling and the handbrake and footbrake applied,
move the gear selector through all positions
three times, finishing up in position “P”,
3Wait one minute. With the engine still idling,
withdraw the transmission dipstick (see
illustration).Wipe the dipstick with a clean
lint-free rag, re-insert it fully and withdraw it
again. Read the fluid level at the end of the
dipstick: it should be between the two
notches.
4If topping-up is necessary, do so via the
dipstick tube, using clean transmission fluid of
the specified type (see illustration).Do not
overfill.
5Stop the engine, refit the dipstick and close
the bonnet.6Note that if the fluid level was below the
minimum mark when checked or is in
constant need of topping-up, check around
the transmission for any signs of excessive
fluid leaks.If present, leaks must be rectified
without delay.
7If the colour of the fluid is dark brown or
black this denotes the sign of a worn brake
band or transmission clutches, in which case
have your Ford dealer check the transmission
at the earliest opportunity.1Place the vehicle over a pit, or raise and
support it at front and rear. The vehicle must
be level for an accurate check.
2If the gearbox is hot after a run, allow it to
cool for a few minutes. This is necessary
because the oil can foam when hot and give a
false level reading.
18Manual gearbox oil level
check17Automatic transmission fluid
level check
Every 12 000 miles or 12 months 1•13
1
16.34b . . . to enable mixture adjustment -
DOHC models
17.4 Topping-up the transmission fluid17.3 Automatic transmission dipstick
location and markings
16.34a Remove the cover from the mixture
adjustment potentiometer . . .16.26 Adjusting the idle mixture -
SOHC models
Every 12 000 miles (20 000 km) or 12 months