jack points FORD SIERRA 1985 1.G DOHC Engine Workshop Manual

should be fitted dry. Drive in the new seal
using a suitable metal tube, making sure that
the seal lip faces into the engine, and taking
care not to damage the timing chain cover
(see illustration).
31Fit the lower timing chain cover using a
new rubber gasket (see illustration).
32Loosely refit the timing chain cover
securing bolts.
33Refit the crankshaft pulley to the end of the
crankshaft, and draw the pulley onto the
crankshaft using the original securing bolt, at the
same time centring the lower timing chain cover.
34With the lower timing chain cover
centralised, and the pulley fully home on the
crankshaft, remove the old securing bolt, then
fit a new bolt.
35Tighten the new crankshaft pulley bolt to
the specified torque, in the two stages given
in the Specifications at the beginning of this
Chapter. Prevent the crankshaft from turning
as during removal.
36Tighten the lower timing chain cover
securing bolts.
37Refit the drivebelt tensioner assembly,
ensuring that the lug on the rear of the
tensioner bracket engages with the
corresponding hole in the cylinder block, and
tighten the securing bolt.
38Swing the alternator into position to align
the upper mounting bolt hole with the
corresponding hole in the drivebelt tensioner
assembly, then refit the upper mounting bolt,
and tighten the upper bolt and the lower
through-bolt.
39Refit the alternator drivebelt.
40If the engine is in the vehicle, reverse the
operations described in paragraph 1.
41If applicable, refill the cooling system.
1Examine alI the teeth on the camshaft and
crankshaft sprockets. If the teeth are “hooked”
in appearance, renew the sprockets.
2Examine the chain tensioner plastic
sprocket for wear. If excessive wear is
evident, the complete tensioner assembly
must be renewed, as the sprocket cannot be
renewed independently. Note that the
tensioner plunger assembly must be renewed
whenever the timing chain is removed.3Examine the timing chain for wear. If the
chain has been in operation for a considerable
time, or if when held horizontally (rollers
vertical) it takes on a deeply-bowed
appearance, renew it.
Note: Refer to the warning at the beginning of
Section 5 and the note at the beginning of the
following Section before proceeding. The
cylinder head must not be removed when the
engine is warm.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2On carburettor models, remove the air
cleaner.
3On fuel injection models, remove the air
inlet hose, plenum chamber, and air cleaner
lid as an assembly.
4Drain the cooling system.
5Disconnect the heater coolant hose from
the inlet manifold (see illustration).
6Disconnect the breather hose from the
camshaft cover, and unbolt the hose bracket
from the left-hand side of the cylinder head
(see illustration).
7Unscrew the securing bolt and disconnect
the earth lead from the left-hand rear of the
cylinder head (see illustration).
8Remove the distributor cap and HT leads,
and the rotor arm and housing. If necessary,
mark the HT leads to aid refitting.
9The cylinder head can be removed either
with or without the manifolds and fuel rail,
where applicable (it is easiest to remove thehead complete with the manifolds and fuel
rail). If desired, the inlet manifold and the fuel
rail can be unbolted and moved to one side,
leaving the wires, hoses, pipes and cables
connected, but care must be taken not to
place any strain on them.
10Unscrew the three securing nuts and
disconnect the exhaust downpipe from the
manifold. It may be necessary to jack up the
front of the vehicle to gain access to the nuts
(in which case, apply the handbrake and
support the front of the vehicle securely on
axle stands). Recover the gasket.
11If the inlet manifold and the fuel rail (where
applicable) are to be removed with the
cylinder head, disconnect all relevant wires,
hoses, pipes and cables. Otherwise, unbolt
the manifold and the fuel rail, and move them
to one side, ensuring that they are adequately
supported. If the fuel rail is unbolted, be
prepared for fuel spillage, and take adequate
fire precautions.
12Proceed as shown in paragraphs 2 to 19
of Section 18.
Refitting
13Proceed as shown in paragraphs 20 to 55
of Section 18.
14With the cylinder head refitted, reverse the
procedure described in paragraphs 1 to 11,
noting the following points.
15Use a new gasket when reconnecting the
exhaust downpipe to the manifold.
16Ensure that the HT leads are reconnected
correctly.
17Fill the cooling system.
17Cylinder head - removal and
refitting (engine in vehicle)
16Timing chain, sprockets and
tensioner - examination and
renovation
2B•10DOHC engine
15.30 Fitting a new lower timing chain
cover oil seal
17.5 Disconnecting the heater coolant
hose from the inlet manifold17.7 Disconnect the earth lead (arrowed)
from the cylinder head17.6 Hose bracket bolted to cylinder head
(arrowed)
15.31 Lower timing chain cover rubber
gasket in position. Ensure that lug on
gasket engages with notch in cover
(arrowed)

Inspection
3Examine the surfaces of the camshaft
journals and lobes and the contact surfaces of
the cam followers for wear. If wear is
excessive considerable noise would have
been noticed from the top of the engine when
running, and new camshafts and followers
must be fitted. It is unlikely that this level of
wear will occur unless a considerable mileage
has been covered. Note that the cam
followers cannot be dismantled for renewal of
individual components.
4Check the camshaft bearing surfaces in the
cylinder head and the bearing caps for wear. If
excessive wear is evident, the only course of
action available is to renew the cylinder head
and bearing caps.
5Check the cam follower bores in the
cylinder head for wear. If excessive wear is
evident, the cylinder head must be renewed.
6Check the cam follower oil grooves and the
oil ports in the cylinder head for obstructions.
Refitting
7Refit the cam followers and the camshafts
as described in paragraphs 27 to 55 of
Section 18.
8If the engine is in the vehicle, reverse the
operations given in paragraph 1.
Note: New flywheel/driveplate securing bolts
must be used on refitting.
1Refer to Chapter 2, PartA, noting the
following points.
2If the engine is in the car, refer to Chapter 6
when removing and refitting the clutch.
3There is no need to make alignment marks
between the flywheel/driveplate and the end
of the crankshaft, as the securing bolt holes
are offset, so the flywheel/driveplate can only
be fitted to the crankshaft in one position.
4The flywheel/driveplate securing bolts must
be renewed when refitting, and the new bolts
are supplied ready-coated with threadlocking
compound (see illustration).
5Check on the availability of new parts
before contemplating renewal of the ring gear.Note: A suitable puller will be required to
remove the crankshaft pulley. A new
crankshaft pulley bolt, and a new lower timing
chain cover gasket, must be used on refitting.
1The crankshaft front oil seal is located in the
lower timing chain cover.
2If the engine is in the car, carry out the
following operations:
a)Disconnect the battery negative lead.
b)To improve access, remove the radiator. It
will be difficult to remove the crankshaft
pulley with the radiator in place.
c)On fuel injection models, remove the air
inlet hose, plenum chamber, and air
cleaner lid as an assembly.
3Proceed as described in paragraphs 3 to 8
of Section 15.
4With the lower timing chain cover removed,
prise the old oil seal from the cover using a
screwdriver, and drive in the new seal using a
suitable metal tube. Make sure that the seal
lip faces into the engine. Take care not to
damage the timing chain cover.
5Refit the lower timing chain cover as
described in paragraphs 31 to 39 of Section
15.
6If the engine is in the vehicle, reverse the
operations given in paragraph 2.
Note: New flywheel/driveplate bolts must be
used on refitting.
1Remove the flywheel/driveplate and the
engine adapter plate.
2Extract the seal using an oil seal removal
tool if available. It may also be possible to
remove the oil seal by drilling the outer face
and using self-tapping screws and a pair of
grips.
3Clean the oil seal housing, then carefully
wind a thin layer of tape around the edge of
the crankshaft to protect the oil seal lip as the
seal is installed.4Ideally, the new oil seal should be installed
using a tool similar to that shown (see
illustration).A suitable tool can be
improvised using a metal tube of suitable
diameter, a metal disc or flat bar, and two
flywheel bolts. Draw the seal into position
using the two flywheel bolts. Make sure that
the seal lip faces into the engine.
5With the oil seal installed, carefully pull the
tape from the edge of the crankshaft.
6Refit the engine adapter plate and the
flywheel/driveplate.Removal
1Sump removal and refitting is far easier if
the engine is removed from the vehicle - if so,
proceed to paragraph 9. However, if the
engine is in the vehicle, proceed as follows.
2Remove the gearbox and clutch, or
automatic transmission, as applicable.
3Remove the flywheel/driveplate and the
engine adapter plate.
4Drain the engine oil into a container.
5Ensure that the steering wheel is positioned
in the straight-ahead position, then remove
the clamp bolt from the lower steering column
clamp, swivel the plate to one side, and
disconnect the lower steering column from
the lower flexible coupling.
6Attach a suitable hoist to the engine lifting
brackets located at the front and rear of the
cylinder head, and carefully take the weight of
the engine.
7Detach the brake lines from the front
suspension crossmember.
8Support the crossmember with a jack, then
loosen the bolts securing the crossmember to
the underbody. Remove the bolts, and
carefully lower the crossmember sufficiently
to allow the sump to be removed.
9If the engine has been removed, it is
preferable to keep it upright until the sump
has been removed, to prevent sludge in the
sump from entering the engine internals.
10Unscrew the sump securing nuts and
bolts, and withdraw the sump from the
engine. If the sump is stuck, gently tap it
sideways to free it (the sump will not move far
sideways, as it locates on studs in the cylinder
block). Do not prise between the mating faces
of the sump and block. Recover the gasket.
11Thoroughly clean the mating faces of the
cylinder block and sump.
Refitting
12Commence refitting by locating a new
gasket in the grooves in the sump.
25Sump - removal and refitting
24Crankshaft rear oil seal -
renewal
23Crankshaft front oil seal -
renewal
22Flywheel/driveplate - removal
inspection and refitting
DOHC engine 2B•15
2B
24.4 Tool used to fit crankshaft rear oil
seal
A Rear oil seal housing
B Special tool22.4 Improvised tool used to hold flywheel
when tightening securing bolts
Warning: A new sump gasket will
be required on refitting, and
suitable sealing compound will
be required to coat the sump and
cylinder block mating faces.
Shims may be required when mating the
engine and gearbox/transmission - see text.