check engine light FORD SIERRA 1987 2.G Bodywork And Fittings Workshop Manual

The model range includes 4-door Saloon, 3
and 5-door Hatchback, 5-door Estate, and 2-
door Pick-up body styles.
Each body is of all-steel welded energy-
absorbing monocoque construction, with a
separate load-bearing rear chassis frame on
P100 Pick-up models. Corrosion protection is
applied to all new vehicles, and includes zinc
phosphate dipping of the body panels, and
wax injection of box sections and doors.
All models have flush direct-glazed fixed glass
panels, and integrated polycarbonate bumpers.
All body panels are welded, including the
front wings, so it is recommended that major
body damage repairs are entrusted to a dealer.
A wide range of interior equipment and trim
options are available depending on model.
The procedures given in this Chapter apply to
original equipment fitments, and do not cover
after-market products.
The general condition of a vehicle’s
bodywork is the one thing that significantly
affects its value. Maintenance is easy but
needs to be regular. Neglect, particularly after
minor damage, can lead quickly to further
deterioration and costly repair bills. It is
important also to keep watch on those parts of
the vehicle not immediately visible, for instance
the underside, inside all the wheel arches and
the lower part of the engine compartment.
The basic maintenance routine for the
bodywork is washing - preferably with a lot of
water, from a hose. This will remove all the
loose solids which may have stuck to the
vehicle. It is important to flush these off in
such a way as to prevent grit from scratching
the finish. The wheel arches and underframe
need washing in the same way to remove any
accumulated mud which will retain moisture
and tend to encourage rust. Oddly enough,
the best time to clean the underframe and
wheel arches is in wet weather when the mud
is thoroughly wet and soft. In very wet
weather the underframe is usually cleaned of
large accumulations automatically and this is
a good time for inspection.
Periodically, except on vehicles with a wax-
based underbody protective coating, it is a
good idea to have the whole of the underframe
of the vehicle steam cleaned, engine
compartment included, so that a thorough
inspection can be carried out to see what
minor repairs and renovations are necessary.
Steam cleaning is available at many garages
and is necessary for removal of the
accumulation of oily grime which sometimes is
allowed to become thick in certain areas. If
steam cleaning facilities are not available,
there are one or two excellent grease solvents
available, which can be brush applied. The dirt
can then be simply hosed off. Note that thesemethods should not be used on vehicles with
wax-based underbody protective coating or
the coating will be removed. Such vehicles
should be inspected annually, preferably just
prior to winter, when the underbody should be
washed down and any damage to the wax
coating repaired using a proprietry brand
undershield. Ideally, a completely fresh coat
should be applied. It would also be worth
considering the use of such wax-based
protection for injection into door panels, sills,
box sections, etc, as an additional safeguard
against rust damage where such protection is
not provided by the vehicle manufacturer.
After washing paintwork, wipe off with a
chamois leather to give an unspotted clear
finish. A coat of clear protective wax polish, will
give added protection against chemical
pollutants in the air. If the paintwork sheen has
dulled or oxidised, use a cleaner/polisher
combination to restore the brilliance of the
shine. This requires a little effort, but such
dulling is usually caused because regular
washing has been neglected. Care needs to be
taken with metallic paintwork, as special non-
abrasive cleaner/polisher is required to avoid
damage to the finish. Always check that the
door and ventilator opening drain holes and
pipes are completely clear so that water can be
drained out. Bright work should be treated in
the same way as paint work. Windscreens and
windows can be kept clear of the smeary film
which often appears by the use of a proprietary
glass cleaner. Never use any form of wax or
other body or chromium polish on glass.
At the specified intervals, check the
operation of the door locks and check straps
and lubricate the hinges with a little oil. Also
lubricate the hinges of the bonnet and boot lid
or tailgate, as applicable, and the bonnet
release mechanism.
Mats and carpets should be brushed or
vacuum cleaned regularly to keep them free of
grit. If they are badly stained remove them
from the vehicle for scrubbing or sponging and
make quite sure they are dry before refitting.
Seats and interior trim panels can be kept
clean by wiping with a damp cloth and a
proprietry wax polish. If they do become
stained (which can be more apparent on light
coloured upholstery) use a little liquid
detergent and a soft nail brush to scour the
grime out of the grain of the material. Do not
forget to keep the headlining clean in the same
way as the upholstery. When using liquid
cleaners inside the vehicle do not over-wet the
surfaces being cleaned. Excessive damp
could get into the seams and padded interior
causing stains, offensive odours or even rot. If
the inside of the vehicle gets wet accidentally it
is worthwhile taking some trouble to dry it out
properly, particularly where carpets are
involved. Do not leave oil or electric heaters
inside the vehicle for this purpose.Repair of minor scratches in
bodywork
If the scratch is very superficial, and does not
penetrate to the metal of the bodywork, repair is
very simple. Lightly rub the area of the scratch
with a paintwork renovator, or a very fine cutting
paste, to remove loose paint from the scratch
and to clear the surrounding bodywork of wax
polish. Rinse the area with clean water.
Apply touch-up paint to the scratch using a
fine paint brush; continue to apply fine layers
of paint until the surface of the paint in the
scratch is level with the surrounding
paintwork. Allow the new paint at least two
weeks to harden: then blend it into the
surrounding paintwork by rubbing the scratch
area with a paintwork renovator or a very fine
cutting paste. Finally, apply a good wax polish.
Where the scratch has penetrated right
through to the metal of the bodywork, causing
the metal to rust, a different repair technique is
required. Remove any loose rust from the
bottom of the scratch with a penknife, then
apply rust inhibiting paint, to prevent the
formation of rust in the future. Using a rubber or
nylon applicator fill the scratch with bodystopper
paste. If required, this paste can be mixed with
cellulose thinners to provide a very thin paste
which is ideal for filling narrow scratches. Before
the stopper-paste in the scratch hardens, wrap
a piece of smooth cotton rag around the top of a
finger. Dip the finger in cellulose thinners; and
then quickly sweep it across the surface of the
stopper-paste in the scratch; this will ensure that
the surface of the stopper-paste is slightly
hollowed. The scratch can now be painted over
as described earlier in this Section.
Repair of dents in bodywork
When deep denting of the vehicle’s
bodywork has taken place, the first task is to
pull the dent out, until the affected bodywork
almost attains its original shape. There is little
point in trying to restore the original shape
completely, as the metal in the damaged area
will have stretched on impact and cannot be
reshaped fully to its original contour. It is better
to bring the level of the dent up to a point which
is about 1/8 in (3 mm) below the level of the
surrounding bodywork. In cases where the dent
is very shallow anyway, it is not worth trying to
pull it out at all. If the underside of the dent is
accessible, it can be hammered out gently from
behind, using a mallet with a wooden or plastic
head. Whilst doing this, hold a suitable block of
wood firmly against the outside of the panel to
absorb the impact from the hammer blows and
thus prevent a large area of the bodywork from
being “belled-out”.
Should the dent be in a section of the
bodywork which has a double skin or some
other factor making it inaccessible from
behind, a different technique is called for. Drill
several small holes through the metal inside
the area particularly in the deeper section.
4Minor body damage - repair
3Maintenance - upholstery and
carpets
2Maintenance - bodywork,
underside and fittings
1General information
12•2Bodywork and fittings

Models up to 1987
1Working in the engine compartment,
disconnect the cable from the bonnet lock by
pulling the cable sheath end fitting from its
bracket, then releasing the end fitting from the
lock lever.
2Remove the three securing screws and
withdraw the lock from the front panel.
3Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Models from 1987
4Remove the radiator grille panel.
5Disconnect the cable from the bonnet lock
by pulling the cable sheath end fitting from its
bracket, then releasing the end fitting from the
lock lever.
6Detach the bracing strut from the lock by
removing the screw, then remove the two
securing screws and withdraw the lock from
the front panel.
7Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Removal
1Open the boot lid, and place protective
covers (old rags or cardboard) beneath the
corners of the lid, and over the rear wings to
prevent damage to the paintwork.
2Where applicable, disconnect the wiring
from the lock solenoid and “boot lid ajar”
sensor, after disconnecting the battery
negative lead.
3Release the wiring loom grommets, taking
care not to lose them, then tie string to the
wiring loom(s), and pull the loom(s) through
the boot lid. Leave the string(s) in position in
the boot lid to aid refitting of the loom(s).
4Mark the location of the hinges on the
underside of the lid using a soft pencil or
masking type, then loosen the four hinge bolts.5With the help of an assistant, remove the
bolts and lift the boot lid from the vehicle.
Refitting
6Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing in
mind the following points.
7Adjust the hinges to their original marked
positions before tightening the bolts.
8On completion, check that the boot lid is
central within its aperture and aligned with the
surrounding bodywork. Re-adjust the hinges
to give satisfactory alignment if necessary.
9Check that the lock striker engages fully in
the lock, and if necessary adjust the position
of the lock striker.
Removal
1With the boot lid raised, remove the lock
barrel retaining clip.
2Where applicable, disconnect the operating
lever from the central locking solenoid/motor,
then withdraw the lock barrel.
3Remove the three retaining screws from the
lock assembly, if necessary loosening the
reinforcing plate (see illustration).
4Where applicable, disconnect the battery
negative lead, the earth lead from the bootlid
and the “boot lid ajar” sensor wiring plug.
Unclip the luggage compartment light switch
from the lock assembly, where applicable.
5Withdraw the lock assembly from the boot
lid.
Refitting
6Commence refitting by inserting the lock
assembly and loosely refitting the retaining
screws.
7Insert the lock barrel, where applicable
reconnecting the operating lever to the
solenoid, and refit the retaining clip.
8Tighten the lock assembly retaining screws,
and where applicable reconnect the earth
lead and “boot lid ajar” sensor wiring plug,
and the battery negative lead.
9If the reinforcing plate was loosened during
removal, tighten the retaining screws.Note: On Hatchback models made before
1990 with an integral heated rear
window/radio aerial, note that the radio aerial
lead is routed through different openings to
that of other models in the rear bodywork and
the tailgate. If a new, later-specification
tailgate is to be fitted to an earlier vehicle, a
new opening must be made in the bodywork
for the aerial lead. Ideally, this work should be
carried out by a Ford dealer, who will have the
necessary template available to ensure that
the opening is positioned accurately.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Open the tailgate and prise out the trim
panel using a wide-bladed screwdriver.
3Disconnect the wiring from the heated rear
window, rear wash/wipe, interior light, lock
solenoid and “tailgate ajar” sensor, as
applicable. Disconnect the washer fluid hose
where applicable; be prepared for fluid
spillage.
4Release the wiring loom/hose grommet(s)
taking care not to lose it/them, then tie string
to the wiring loom(s)/hose, and pull the
loom(s)/hose through the tailgate. Leave the
string(s) in position in the tailgate to aid
refitting of the loom(s)/hose.
5Have an assistant support the tailgate, then
disconnect the support struts by prising out
the retaining clips. Do not remove the clips
completely, just raise them by a maximum of
4.0 mm (0.16 in) and then pull the struts off
their mountings (see illustration).
6Prise out the hinge fixing covers from the
headlining, unscrew the hinge nuts and
washers, and with the aid of the assistant,
withdraw the tailgate from the vehicle (see
illustration).
Refitting
7Refitting is a reversal of removal, but do not
fully tighten the hinge nuts until the tailgate is
positioned centrally in its aperture. If
necessary, adjust the position of the lock
striker so that it engages fully in the lock.
11Tailgate (Hatchback and
Estate models) - removal and
refitting
10Boot lid lock (Saloon models)
- removal and refitting
9Boot lid (Saloon models) -
removal and refitting
8Bonnet lock - removal and
refitting
Bodywork and fittings 12•5
12
11.6 Tailgate hinge assembly - Hatchback
and Estate models
11.5 Prising out a tailgate strut retaining
clip10.3 Boot lid lock - Saloon models
A Lock retaining
screws
B Earth leadC Reinforcing plate
screws