ECO mode FORD SIERRA 1989 2.G Suspension And Steering Workshop Manual

Wheels
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Pressed steel or alloy
Size:
Saloon, Hatchback and Estate models:
Steel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13 x 4.50 in, 13 x 5.50 in, or 14 x 5.50 in
Alloy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14 x 5.50 in
P100 models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14 x 5.50 in
Tyre sizes
Note: Manufacturers often modify tyre sizes and pressure recommendations. The following is intended as a guide only. Refer to your vehicle
handbook or a Ford dealer for the latest recommendations
Saloon and Hatchback models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .165 R 13H, 165 R 135, 165 R 13T, 185/70 R 13H, 185/70 R 135,
185/70 R13T, 195/60 R 14H, 195/60 VR 14 or 195/65 R 14T
Estate models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .175 R 13H, 175 R 135,175 R 13T, 195/70 R 13H, 195/65 R 14T,
195/60 R 14H or 195/60 VR 14 P100 models 185R 14 8PR
Tyre pressures (cold): lbf/in2
(bar):FrontRear
All Saloon, Hatchback and Estate models with normal load* . . . . . . .26 (1.8)26 (1.8)
All Saloon and Hatchback models with full load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29 (2.0)36 (2.5)
Estate models with full load:
175 R 13H, 175 R 135,175 R 13T, 195/70 R 13H and 195/65 R14T .29 (2.0)48 (2.8)
195/60 R 14H and 195/60 VR 14 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29 (2.0)36 (2.5)
P100 models with light load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 (1.8)36 (2.5)
P100 models with full load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50 (3.5)65 (4.5)
*Normal load is defined as up to three passengers (or equivalent). For sustained high speeds add 1.5 lbf/in2
(0.1 bar) for every 6 mph (10 km/h)
over 100 mph (160 km/h)
†A light load is defined as one passenger plus up to 100 kg (220 lb) payload
Torque wrench settingsNmlbf ft
Roadwheel nuts
Wheelnuts:
Saloon, Hatchback and Estate models (steel and alloy wheels) . . . .70 to 10052 to 74
P100 models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .85 to 9063 to 66
Hub nuts:
Saloon, Hatchback and Estate models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .310 to 350229 to 258
P100 models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .390 to 450288 to 332
Front suspension
Strut upper mounting nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 to 5230 to 38
Hub carrier-to-strut pinch-bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 to 9257 to 68
Crossmember-to-underbody bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .70 to 9052 to 66
Engine mounting-to-crossmember nut:
Saloon, Hatchback and Estate models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50 to 7037 to 52
P100 models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41 to 5830 to 43
Anti-roll bar-to-lower arm nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .70 to 11052 to 81
Anti-roll bar U-clamp-to-underbody bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55 to 7041 to 52
Lower arm-to-hub carrier balljoint nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .65 to 8548 to 63
Lower arm inner pivot bolt:
Stage 1 (“clamping”torque) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4533
Loosen fully, then Stage 2 (“snug” torque) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1511
Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Tighten through a further 90º
Rear suspension
Saloon, Hatchback and Estate models:
Lower arm-to-crossmember pivot bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .80 to 9559 to 70
Front guide plate-to-underbody bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41 to 5130 to 38
Front guide plate-to-crossmember bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10074
Suspension/final drive unit rear mounting-to-underbody bolts (gold
coloured) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6044
Suspension/final drive unit rear mounting-to-final drive unit rear cover
bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 to 5030 to 37
Anti-roll bar-to-underbody bracket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 to 2515 to 18
Hub carrier/brake backplate-to-lower arm bolts*:
Type X . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .52 to 6438 to 47
Type Y . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .80 to 10059 to 74
Hub nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .250 to 290185 to 214
*See Section 15
11•2Suspension and steering

Torque wrench settings (continued)Nmlbf ft
P100 models:
Shock absorber-to-chassis crossmember bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .60 to 7044 to 52
Leaf spring-to-front bracket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .157 to 196116 to 145
Leaf spring-to-spring shackle bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .157 to 196116 to 145
Spring shackle-to-underbody bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .80 to 8559 to 63
Axle-to-leaf spring U-bolt nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39 to 5829 to 43
Manual steering
Steering gear-to-crossmember bolts:
Stage 1 (“clamping” torque) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4533
Loosen fully, then Stage 2 (“snug” torque) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1511
Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Tighten through a further 90º
Steering column adjuster through-bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 to 84 to 6
Tie-rod end locknut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .57 to 6842 to 50
Tie-rod end-to-hub carrier nut* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 to 3215 to 24
Tie-rod-to-steering rack balljoint . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .72 to 8853 to 65
Steering wheel nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45 to 5533 to 41
Intermediate shaft-to-inner column clamp bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 to 2515 to 18
Flexible coupling-to-steering gear clamp nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 to 2617 to 19
Column mounting pinch-bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45 to 5533 to 41
Pinion retaining nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .70 to 10052 to 74
Slipper plug† . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4 to 53 to 4
*Tighten nut to specified torque and then tighten to next available split pin hole
†Tighten nut to specified torque and then loosen off 60º to 70º
Power steering (where different to manual steering)
Tie-rod to steering rack balljoint . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .70 to 7752 to 57
Flexible coupling-to-steering gear clamp bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16 to 2012 to 15
Intermediate shaft-to-inner column clamp bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16 to 2012 to 15
Pinion locknut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37 to 4727 to 35
Slipper plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3 to 42 to 3
Pump rear support bar nut and bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41 to 5130 to 38
Pump mounting bracket-to-engine bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .52 to 6438 to 47
Pump pulley bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 to 127 to 9
Fluid hose-to-pinion housing bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21 to 2615 to 19
Fluid pressure hose-to-pump union . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 to 3119 to 23
Fluid return hose-to-pump union . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16 to 2012 to 15
The front suspension is of independent
MacPherson strut type incorporating coil
springs and integral telescopic shock
absorbers. The lower end of each strut is
attached to a hub carrier, which carries the
wheel hub and bearings, and the brake
assembly. The lower end of each hub carrier
is attached to a suspension lower arm by a
sealed balljoint. The inboard ends of the lower
arms are attached to the front suspension
crossmember and the lower arms thus
provide lateral location for the strut
assemblies. The upper end of each strut is
bolted to a suspension turret on the vehicle
body. An anti-roll bar is mounted to the rear of
the lower arms, and resists the roll tendency
of the front suspension.
On Saloon, Hatchback and Estate models,
the rear suspension is also of independent
type, incorporating semi-trailing arms, coil
springs and telescopic shock absorbers. The
semi-trailing arms are attached to the
suspension crossmember at their forward
ends, and to the hub carriers at the rear. Thecoil springs are located between the
semi-trailing arms and the vehicle underbody.
On Saloon and Hatchback models, the shock
absorbers are mounted behind the coil
springs, but on Estate models they are
concentric with the coil springs. On some
Estate models the shock absorbers are of the
self-levelling type. The suspension
crossmember is attached to the vehicle
underbody, and to the final drive unit. Certain
models are fitted with an anti-roll bar which is
mounted to the rear of the final drive unit, and
is attached to the semi-trailing arms by
connecting links.
The rear suspension on P100 models
consists of a beam axle located and
supported by a leaf spring on each side, and
utilizing telescopic shock absorbers to control
vertical movement. The hub and brake
assemblies are attached directly to each side
of the axle. The axle is bolted to the leaf
springs using U-bolts and counterplates, and
the shock absorbers are attached to the
counterplates at their lower ends and the
vehicle underbody at their upper ends.
The steering gear is of the conventional
rack and pinion type located ahead of the
front wheels. Movement of the steering wheelis transmitted to the steering gear by means
of a shaft containing a universal joint. The
front hub carriers are connected to the
steering gear by tie-rods, each having an inner
and outer balljoint. Power-assisted steering is
available on some models, assistance being
provided hydraulically by an engine-driven
pump.
Removal
1Remove the steering gear.
2Support the engine with a jack and
interposed block of wood under the sump.
3Unscrew and remove the engine mounting
nuts from the top of the mountings in the
engine bay (see illustration).
4Raise the engine slightly with the jack, and
ensure that it is safely supported, and just
clear of the engine mounting rubbers.
5Unscrew and remove the nuts, washers and
pivot bolts securing the lower arms to the
crossmember, and pull the arms from the
crossmember. Note that the pivot bolt heads
face to the rear of the vehicle.
2Front suspension crossmember
-removalandrefitting
1General information
Suspension and steering 11•3
11

6Where applicable, remove the brake pipes
from the clips on the crossmember, taking
care not to strain them, and detach any cables
or electrical leads which may be secured with
clips or cable-ties, noting their positions.
7Support the crossmember with a jack, then
unscrew and remove the four mounting bolts
(see illustration).
8Lower the crossmember and withdraw it
from under the vehicle.
9If desired, the engine mountings can now
be unbolted from the crossmember.
Refitting
10Refitting is a reversal of removal, but bear
in mind the following points.
11Do not tighten the lower arm pivot bolts
until the weight of the vehicle is resting on its
wheels. This is to prevent “wind up” of the
rubber bushes which will occur when the
vehicle is lowered if the bolts have been
tightened with no load on the suspension. The
following procedure must be used when
tightening the pivot bolts. Tighten the bolt to
the specified “clamping” torque, then loosen
the bolt fully. Re-tighten to the specified
“snug” torque and then further tighten the bolt
through the specified angle.
12Refit any cables or electrical leads in their
original positions, where applicable.
13When lowering the engine onto its
mountings, ensure that the locating pegs on
the mountings engage with the holes in the
mounting brackets.
Note: A balljoint separator tool will be
required for this operation.
Removal
1To improve access, raise the front of the
vehicle on ramps. Do not jack the vehicle up
at this stage. Apply the handbrake.
2Unscrew and remove the nut, washer and
pivot bolt securing the relevant lower arm to
the crossmember (see illustration).
3Remove the anti-roll bar-to-lower arm
securing nut and recover the dished washer
and plastic cover (where applicable) (see
illustration).4Ensure that the handbrake is applied, jack
up the front of the vehicle and support on axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
5Remove the split pin and unscrew the
castellated nut from the lower arm balljoint.
Using a balljoint separator tool, disconnect
the lower arm from the hub carrier. The lower
arm can now be withdrawn from the vehicle.
Recover the remaining dished washer and
plastic cover (where applicable) from the end
of the anti-roll bar.
Overhaul
6If the lower arm has been removed due to a
worn balljoint, the complete arm must be
renewed.
7The anti-roll bar compliance bushes can be
renewed as described in Section 8, but note
that the bushes on both sides of the vehicle
must be renewed at the same time. The lower
arm inner pivot bush can be renewed as
described in Section 9.
Refitting
8To refit the lower arm, proceed as follows.
9Fit the shallow dished washer (colour
coded black or green) and the plastic cover
(where applicable) to the end of the anti-roll
bar, then refit the lower arm to the anti-roll
bar. Fit the remaining plastic cover (where
applicable) and the deep dished washer
(colour coded yellow or black) and refit the
securing nut. Do not tighten the nut at this
stage. Note that the convex faces of the
dished washers must face the lower arm.10Reconnect the balljoint to the hub carrier,
refit the castellated nut and tighten to the
specified torque. Fit a new split pin.
11Locate the end of the lower arm in the
crossmember and refit the pivot bolt, washer
and nut. If necessary, push the outer rim of
the roadwheel in order to line up the holes in
the lower arm bush and the crossmember.
Note that the pivot bolt head should face to
the rear of the vehicle. Do not tighten the bolt
at this stage.
12Lower the vehicle so that its weight is
resting on the roadwheels, and bounce the
vehicle to settle the suspension.
13Tighten the lower arm pivot bolt, following
the procedure given in Section 2.
14Tighten the anti-roll bar-to-lower arm
securing nut to the specified torque.
15Lower the vehicle from the ramps, if not
already done.
Note: A spring compressor tool will be
required if the strut is to be dismantled.
Removal
1Loosen the relevant front roadwheel nuts,
apply the handbrake, jack up the front of the
vehicle and support on axle stands (see
“Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
2Remove the roadwheel. On P100 models
mark the position of the roadwheel in relation
to one of the wheel studs before removal.
3Remove the front brake caliper but do not
disconnect the hydraulic hose. Support the
caliper on an axle stand to avoid straining the
hose.
4Where applicable, unbolt the ABS wheel
sensor from the hub carrier and detach the
wire from the clip on the strut. Unplug the
connector and place the sensor to one side.
5Unscrew and remove the pinch-bolt which
secures the hub carrier to the strut. Using a
suitable lever, such as a cold chisel, lever the
hub carrier clamp legs and wedge them apart.
6Lever the suspension lower arm
downwards to separate the hub carrier from
the bottom of the strut.
4Front suspension strut -
removal, overhaul and refitting
3Front suspension lower arm -
removal,overhaul and refitting
11•4Suspension and steering
2.3 Engine mounting nut (arrowed)
3.3 Front anti-roll bar-to-lower arm
securing nut (arrowed)3.2 Front suspension lower arm-to-
crossmember pivot bolt and nut
2.7 Front suspension crossmember
mounting bolts (arrowed)

1Remove the hub carrier.
2Reverse the roadwheel nuts and screw
them fully onto the studs to protect the
threads, then mount the hub carrier assembly
in a vice as shown (see illustration).
3Prise the dust cap from the rear of the hub
carrier, and unscrew the hub nut with a
suitable socket. Note that on all models
manufactured before late December 1982,
both left and right-hand nuts have a
right-hand thread, but as from this date,
left-hand thread assemblies were
progressively fitted to the right-hand hub
carrier. The modified right-hand hub can be
identified by the letter “R” stamped on its
outer face, or by the colour of the hub nut
nylon insert, blue indicates a normal
right-hand thread, and yellow indicates a
left-hand thread.
4Remove the splined washer, and tap the
hub carrier from the drive flange. Recover the
bearing inner race and rollers from the inner
end of the hub carrier (see illustration).
5Prise the oil seal from the outer end of the
hub carrier and remove the remaining bearing
inner race and rollers.
6Using a soft metal drift, drive the bearing
outer races from the hub carrier, taking care
not to damage the inner surface of the carrier.
7Clean the hub carrier and drive flange with
paraffin, wipe dry and examine for damage
and wear. Note that the components are
machined to very close tolerances, and the
bearings are supplied in matched pairs,
therefore scrupulous cleanliness must be
observed.
8Using a metal tube of suitable diameter,
drive the new bearing outer races fully into the
hub carrier. Ensure that the races are seated
correctly.
9Pack the inner bearing races and rollers
with high-melting-point lithium-based grease,
and locate the outer bearing assembly in the
hub camber.
10Fill the cavities between the sealing lips of
the oil seal with grease, then drive it fully into
the hub carrier using a block of wood or a
metal tube of suitable diameter. Note that onearly models the oil seal has a rubber casing,
and this early type of seal should be replaced
with the later type which has a metal casing.
The oil seal should be renewed regardless of
type, and a new seal of the correct type is
normally supplied with the new wheel bearings.
11With the drive flange mounted in a vice, as
during dismantling, tap the hub carrier onto
the drive flange.
12Fit the inner bearing assembly, tapping it
into place with a metal tube of suitable
diameter if necessary, and fit the splined
washer. Note that the bearings are self-setting
on assembly, and no subsequent adjustment
is required.
13Refit the hub nut and tighten it to the
specified torque.
14Tap the dust cap into position in the hub
carrier.
15Remove the assembly from the vice,
remove the roadwheel nuts, and refit the hub
carrier.
Removal
1To improve access, raise the front of the
vehicle on ramps. Do not jack the vehicle up
at this stage. Apply the handbrake.2Where applicable bend back the locktabs,
then unscrew the two bolts securing each of
the two anti-roll bar U-clamps to the vehicle
underbody (see illustrations).
3Ensure that the handbrake is applied, jack
up the front of the vehicle and support on axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
4Remove the anti-roll bar-to-lower arm
securing nuts and recover the dished washers
and plastic covers, where applicable (see
illustration).
5Unscrew and remove the nut, washer and
pivot bolt securing one of the lower arms to
the crossmember, and pull the end of the
lower arm from the crossmember.
6Pull the anti-roll bar from the bush in the
“free” lower arm then slide the anti-roll bar
from the remaining fixed lower arm. Recover
the remaining dished washers and plastic
covers (where applicable) from the ends of the
anti-roll bar.
7If necessary, the anti-roll bar compliance
bushes can be renewed as described in
Section 8, and the anti-roll bar U-clamp
bushes can be renewed by sliding them off
the ends of the bar. Note that although the
U-clamp bushes are of a split design, they
should not be levered open to aid fitting, and
the new bushes must be slid on from the ends
of the anti-roll bar. The bushes should always
be renewed in pairs.
7Front anti-roll bar - removal
and refitting
6Front wheel bearings - renewal
11•6Suspension and steering
6.2 Front hub carrier mounted in vice to
unscrew hub nut
7.2b . . . unscrew the bolts and remove the
anti-roll bar U-clamps7.2a Bend back the locktabs (arrowed) . . .
6.4 Front hub components
A Dust cap
B Hub nutC Splined washer
D Taper roller bearingE Bearing outer race
F Hub carrierG Oil seal
H Drive flange

Refitting
8To refit the anti-roll bar, proceed as follows.
9Fit the shallow dished washers (colour
coded black or green) and the plastic covers
(where applicable) to the ends of the anti-roll
bar, then push the anti-roll bar through the
bushes in the lower arms. Fit the remaining
plastic covers (where applicable) and the
deep dished washers (colour coded yellow or
black) and loosely fit the securing nuts. Note
that the convex faces of the dished washers
must face the lower arm. Do not tighten the
nuts fully at this stage.
10Locate the “free” lower arm inner pivot
bush in the crossmember, and refit the pivot
bolt, washer and nut. If necessary, push the
outer rim of the roadwheel in order to line up
the holes in the lower arm bush and the
crossmember. Note that the pivot bolt head
should face to the rear of the vehicle. Do not
tighten the bolt at this stage.
11Lower the vehicle so that its weight is
resting on the roadwheels.
12Refit the anti-roll bar U-clamps to the
vehicle underbody. Note that various different
types of clamping components have been
used during production, and if any of the
components are to be renewed, it is important
to retain the old components for identification
when ordering new parts. The same type of
clamp assembly must be used on both sides
of the vehicle. Tighten the bolts evenly on
each clamp to the specified torque. Where
applicable, secure the bolts with the locktabs.
13Bounce the vehicle to settle the
suspension, then tighten the lower arm pivot
bolt, following the procedure given in Section 2.
14Tighten the anti-roll bar-to-lower arm
securing nuts to the specified torque.
15Lower the vehicle from the ramps, if not
already done.Note: The compliance bushes must be
renewed in vehicle sets, therefore the bushes
on both sides of the vehicle must be renewed
at the same time. If plastic covers were not
originally fitted between the dished washers
and the bushes, suitable covers should be
obtained for fitting during reassembly.
1Remove the anti-roll bar.
2Using a thin-bladed chisel or screwdriver,
carefully prise out the compliance bushes
from the lower arms.
3Tap the new bushes into place using a
suitable socket or tube drift (see illustration).
4Some vehicles may have small rubber
spacer washers fitted to the ends of the
anti-roll bar, and these should be discarded
on reassembly.
5Refit the anti-roll bar.
1To improve access, raise the front of the
vehicle on ramps. Apply the handbrake.
2Unscrew and remove the nut, washer and
pivot bolt securing the relevant lower arm to
the crossmember.
3Remove the anti-roll bar-to-lower arm
securing nut and recover the dished washer
and plastic cover (where applicable).
4Ensure that the handbrake is applied, jack
up the front of the vehicle and support on axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
5Pull the inner end of the lower arm from the
crossmember.
6The pivot bush can now be removed from
the lower arm using a long bolt with nut,
washers and a suitable metal tube.
7Lubricate the new bush with soapy water,
and fit with a single continuous action to avoiddeformation of the bush, again using the bolt,
nut, washers and tube.
8Locate the end of the lower arm in the
crossmember, and refit the pivot bolt, washer
and nut. If necessary, push the outer rim of
the roadwheel in order to line up the holes in
the lower arm bush and the crossmember.
Note that the pivot bolt head should face to
the rear of the vehicle. Do not tighten the bolt
at this stage.
9Refit the plastic cover, dished washer
(where applicable), and nut to the end of the
anti-roll bar. Do not tighten the nut at this
stage.
10Lower the vehicle so that its weight is
resting on the roadwheels, and bounce the
vehicle to settle the suspension.
11Tighten the lower arm pivot bolt, following
the procedure given in Section 2.
12Tighten the anti-roll bar-to-lower arm
securing nut to the specified torque.
13Lower the vehicle from the ramps, if not
already done.
Note: From May 1986, revised final drive unit
rear mounting bolts have been used in
production. Whenever the earlier type of bolts
are removed, they should be discarded and
the later type fitted. The earlier bolts are
coloured blue, and the later type bolts are
coloured gold.
Removal
1Jack up the vehicle and support on axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). It
is only strictly necessary to jack up the rear of
the vehicle, but this provides only limited
access. Note that the axle stands should be
positioned under the side members.
2Remove the rear section of the exhaust
system - ie. from the joint.
3Remove the propeller shaft.
4Disconnect the handbrake equaliser from
the operating rod by removing the circlip and
10Rear suspension and final
drive unit assembly (Saloon,
Hatchback and Estate
models) - removal and refitting
9Front suspension lower arm
inner pivot bush - renewal
8Front anti-roll bar-to-lower arm
compliance bushes - renewal
Suspension and steering 11•7
11
8.3 Tapping a front anti-roll bar-to-lower
arm compliance bush into position
7.4 Front anti-roll bar-to-lower arm mounting
A Rear (black or green) shallow dished
washer
B Plastic cover (where applicable)
C Compliance bushes
D Plastic cover (where applicable)
E Front (yellow or black) deep dished
washer

Refitting
3When refitting the fluid hoses, use new
O-rings, and take care not to overtighten the
unions. Note that with the unions fully
tightened it is still possible to rotate and move
the hoses.
4On completion of refitting, bleed the power
steering fluid circuit (Section 34).
Note: New power steering fluid hose O-rings
will be required when refitting.
All engines except 1.8 litre (R6A)
CVH and 2.0 litre DOHC
1Place a suitable container under the power
steering pump, unscrew the fluid hose unions,
and drain the fluid. Ensure that fluid is not
allowed to spill onto the alternator.
2Remove the drivebelts and unbolt the
power steering pump pulley if necessary to
ease removal.
3Unbolt the rear support bar from the pump
and the engine block (see illustration).
4Unbolt the pump from its mounting bracket,
and withdraw the pump from the engine.
5Refitting is a reversal of removal, noting the
following points.
6Tension the drivebelts correctly.
7When refitting the fluid hoses, use new
O-rings, and take care not to overtighten the
unions. 8On completion of refitting, bleed the power
steering fluid circuit.
1.8 litre (R6A) CVH engine
9The removal and refitting procedures are
basically the same as described below for the
2.0 litre DOHC engine, except that the pump
is mounted on a bracket above the alternator
on the front left-hand side of the engine.
2.0 litre DOHC engine
10The pump is mounted on a bracket on the
front right-hand side of the cylinder block.
11Place a suitable container under the
pump, unscrew the fluid pipe unions, and
drain the fluid.
12Remove the drivebelt which also drives
the coolant pump and alternator.
13Prevent the pulley from rotating using a
strap wrench (which can be improvised using
an old drivebelt and a large socket and
wrench), and unscrew the three pulley
securing bolts. Withdraw the pulley.
14Unscrew the three pump securing bolts
from the front of the pump bracket, and the
single bolt from the rear of the bracket, and
withdraw the pump (see illustrations).
15Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points.
16Reconnect the fluid unions using new O-
rings.
17On completion, bleed the power steering
fluid circuit.
Note: New fluid hose O-rings will be required
when refitting.
Removal
1Clean around the hose unions on the
steering gear. Place a suitable container
beneath the steering gear, then remove the
single bolt securing the hoses to the pinion
housing, unscrew the hose unions and drain
the power steering fluid.
2Clean around the hose unions on the pump.
Place a suitable container beneath the pump,
unscrew the hose unions, and drain any
remaining fluid. Ensure that no fluid is allowed
to spill onto the alternator.3If the hoses are to be left disconnected for a
long period of time, plug the ends of the
hoses and the apertures in the steering gear
and pump, or cover them with masking tape
to prevent dirt ingress.
Refitting
4Refit in reverse order using new O-rings.
5On completion top-up the fluid and bleed
the system.
1Unscrew the filler cap from the power
steering pump reservoir and top-up the fluid
level to the maximum mark using the specified
fluid.
2Disconnect the low tension negative lead
from the ignition coil and crank the engine
several times for two second periods while
slowly turning the steering wheel from
lock-to-lock. Top-up the fluid level if
necessary and continue cranking the engine
until the fluid is free of air bubbles.
3Reconnect the coil lead and start the
engine. Check the system for leaks.
4Switch off the engine and refit the filler cap.
5Drive the vehicle for a few miles to warm up
the fluid and expel any remaining air, then
stop the engine and make a final fluid level
check.
1Remove the tie-rod end.
2Unscrew and remove the tie-rod end
locknut from the tie-rod.
3Remove the clips and slide the gaiter from
the tie-rod and steering gear.
4Slide the new gaiter over the tie-rod and
onto the steering gear. Where applicable,
make sure that the gaiter seats in the cut-outs
in the tie-rod and steering gear.
5Secure the gaiter with new clips.
6Refit the tie-rod end locknut to the tie-rod.
7Refit the tie-rod end.
Note: A balljoint separator tool will be
required for this operation.
Removal
1Loosen the relevant front roadwheel nuts,
apply the handbrake, jack up the front of the
vehicle and support on axle stands.
2Remove the roadwheel. On P100 models
mark the position of the roadwheel in relation
to one of the wheel studs before removal.
3Make alignment marks on the tie-rod and
tie-rod end, then loosen the locknut by a
quarter of a turn.
33Tie-rod end - removal and
refitting
32Steering gear rubber gaiter -
renewal
31Power steering fluid circuit
- bleeding
30Power steering fluid hoses
- removal and refitting
29Power steering pump
- removal and refitting
11•18Suspension and steering
29.3 Power steering pump rear support bar
bolts (arrowed)
29.14b Power steering pump rear securing
bolt29.14a Unbolt the power steering pump
pulley for access to the front pump
securing bolts (arrowed)

4Extract the split pin and unscrew the
castellated nut (see illustration).
5Using a balljoint separator tool, release the
tie-rod end from the hub carrier (see
illustration).
6Unscrew the tie-rod end from the tie-rod,
noting the number of turns necessary to
remove it.
Refitting
7Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing in
mind the following points.
8Screw the tie-rod end onto the tie-rod the
number of turns noted during removal.
9Tighten the nuts to the specified torque,
and fit a new split pin to the castellated nut.
10On P100 models, align the previously
made marks on the roadwheel and wheel
stud.
11On completion, check and if necessary
adjust the front wheel alignment.
1Front wheel alignment is defined by
camber, castor steering axis inclination and
toe setting. The first three factors are
determined in production; only toe can be
adjusted in service. Incorrect toe will cause
rapid tyre wear.
2Toe is defined as the amount by which the
distance between the front wheels, measured
at hub height, differs from the front edges tothe rear edges. If the distance between the
front edges is less than that at the rear, the
wheels are said to toe-in; the opposite case is
known as toe-out.
3To measure toe, it will be necessary to
obtain or make a tracking gauge. These are
available in motor accessory shops, or one
can be made from a length of rigid pipe or bar
with some kind of threaded adjustment facility
at one end. Many tyre specialists will also
check toe free, or for a nominal sum.
4Before measuring toe, check that all
steering and suspension components are
undamaged and that tyre pressures are
correct. The vehicle must be at approximately
kerb weight, with the spare wheel and jack in
their normal positions and any abnormal loads
removed.
5Park the vehicle on level ground and
bounce it a few times to settle the suspension.
6Use the tracking gauge to measure the
distance between the inside faces of the front
wheel rims, at hub height, at the rear of the
front wheels. Record this distance; call it
measurement “Y” (see illustration).7Push the vehicle forwards or backwards so
that the wheels rotate exactly 180º (half a
turn). Measure the distance between the front
wheel rims again, this time at the front of the
wheels. Record this distance; call it
measurement “X”.
8Subtract measurement “X” from
measurement “Y”. If the answer is positive it is
the amount of toe-in; if negative it is the
amount of toe-out. Permissible values are
given in the Specifications.
9If adjustment is necessary loosen the
tie-rod end locknuts and the outer bellows
clips, then rotate each tie-rod by equal
amounts until the setting is correct. Hold the
tie-rod ends in their horizontal position with a
spanner while making the adjustment.
10Tighten the locknuts and outer bellows
clips.
11Provided the tie-rods have been adjusted
by equal amounts the steering wheel should
be central when moving straight-ahead. The
amount of visible thread on each tie-rod
should also be equal. If necessary refer to
Section 23.
34Front wheel alignment
- checking and adjusting
Suspension and steering 11•19
11
34.6 Front wheel alignment
A CamberB CastorC Toe setting
For X and Y, see text
33.5 Using a balljoint separator tool to
release the tie-rod end from the hub
carrier
33.4 Extracting the split pin from the tie-
rod balljoint castellated nut