brakes FORD SIERRA 1989 2.G Suspension And Steering Workshop Manual

pivot pin. Take care not to lose the
components (see illustration).
5Remove the brake cable sheaths from their
brackets on the vehicle underbody.
6Unscrew the brake pipes from the brake
hoses at the brackets on the vehicle
underbody. Plug the ends of the pipes and
hoses to prevent leakage and dirt ingress,
then detach the hoses from the brackets by
removing the U-shaped retaining clips (see
illustration).
7Where applicable, disconnect the ABS
sensors, and detach the leads from the clips
on the lower arms.
8Place suitable blocks beneath the rear
wheels, then lower the vehicle so that the rear
coil springs are lightly loaded. Reposition the
axle stands under the side members.
9Support the final drive unit with a jack,
using an interposed block of wood to spread
the load.
10Where applicable, unscrew and remove
the two anti-roll bar mountings from the
underbody.
11Unscrew and remove the three bolts
securing each of the front guide plates to the
underbody and the suspension crossmember
(see illustration). Where applicable, bend
back the lockwasher tabs on the larger bolts.
12Unscrew and remove the four bolts
securing the final drive unit rear mounting to
the underbody. Note the location and number
of any shims which may be fitted (see
illustration).
13Working inside the rear of the vehicle,
disconnect the shock absorber upper
mountings. On Saloon and Hatchbackmodels, access is gained by removing the
trim covers behind the side cushions. Each
cover is secured by two self-tapping screws,
and the shock absorber is secured by a bolt
and nut. On Estate models, fold down the rear
seat backrest, fold back the floor covering
and remove the front section of the luggage
compartment floor, which is secured with 12
self-tapping screws. Remove the nut and
washer from the shock absorber.
14Using a jack and a wooden beam
positioned beneath the longitudinal
underbody side members, raise the rear of the
vehicle until the rear suspension and final
drive unit assembly can be withdrawn from
under the vehicle.
15If desired, the assembly can be
dismantled with reference to the relevant
Sections of this Chapter and Chapter 9.
Refitting
16Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points.
17Where applicable, secure the larger front
guide plate bolts by bending up the
lockwasher tabs.
18Ensure that the coil springs are located
correctly on their seats on the vehicle
underbody.
19When refitting the final drive rear mounting
to the underbody, refit any shims in their original
noted positions, and fit the bolts with reference
to the note at the beginning of this Section.
20Tighten all fixings to the specified torque.
21On completion, bleed the brakes and
adjust the handbrake. With the vehicle level,
check the final drive unit oil level.
Models with rear drum brakes
Removal
1Chock the front wheels, jack up the rear of
the vehicle and support on axle stands placed
under the side members.
2Remove the relevant driveshaft.
3Remove the handbrake cable from the clip
on the lower arm.
4Unscrew the brake pipe from the brake
hose at the bracket on the lower arm. Plug the
ends of the pipe and hose to prevent leakage
and dirt ingress, then detach the hose from
the bracket by removing the U-shaped
retaining clip (see illustration).
5Unscrew the brake pipe from the wheel
cylinder on the brake backplate and plug the
end of the pipe and the cylinder to prevent
leakage and dirt ingress.
6Unscrew the bolts securing the brake
backplate to the lower arm and tie the
backplate to one side.
7Where applicable, prise the anti-roll bar
connecting strap from the lower arm.
8Support the lower arm on a jack, and raise
it slightly to place the coil spring under load.
9Remove the shock absorber.
10Unscrew and remove the three bolts
securing the front guide plate to the
underbody and the suspension crossmember
(see illustration). Where applicable, bend
back the lockwasher tab(s) on the larger bolt.
11Lower the lower arm, and remove the coil
spring and rubber cup.
12Note the orientation of the two lower
arm-to-crossmember pivot bolts and nuts,
then unscrew and remove them and withdraw
the lower arm from under the vehicle (see
illustration).
13If the lower arm is to be renewed, unclip
the brake pipe, and refit to the new arm.
14If required, the pivot bushes may be
renewed using a long bolt, nut, washers and a
suitable metal tube. Lubricate the new bushes
with soapy water before fitting.
11Rear suspension lower arm
(Saloon, Hatchback and
Estate models) -removaland
refitting
11•8Suspension and steering
10.4 Handbrake equaliser-to-operating rod
circlip and pivot pin (arrowed)10.11 Rear suspension front guide plate -
lockwasher arrowed
11.4 Brake pipe bracket on lower arm. U-
shaped retaining clip arrowed10.12 Final drive unit-to-underbody rear
mounting
10.6 Rear underbody brake pipe bracket -
U-shaped hose retaining clip arrowed

Refitting
15Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points.
16Where applicable, secure the larger front
guide plate bolt by bending up the lockwasher
tab(s).
17Before tightening the lower
arm-to-crossmember pivot bolts and nuts,
lower the vehicle so that its weight is resting
on the roadwheels, and bounce the vehicle to
settle the suspension. Ensure that the bolts
are orientated as noted during removal.
18On completion, bleed the brakes and
adjust the handbrake.
Models with rear disc brakes
Note: A suitable puller will be required to
remove the drive flange, and a new rear hub
nut must be used on reassembly.
Removal
19With the vehicle resting on its wheels,
loosen the rear hub nut. A suitable extension
bar will be required, as the nut is extremely
tight. Note that the left-hand nut has a
left-hand thread, ie it is undone in a clockwise
direction. Before loosening the nut, ensure
that the handbrake is applied, and chock the
relevant rear wheel.
20Loosen the rear roadwheel nuts on the
side concerned, chock the front wheels, jack
up the rear of the car and support on axle
stands placed under the side members.
21Remove the rear roadwheel.
22Remove the rear section of the exhaust
system - ie from the joint.
23Unscrew the brake pipe from the brake
hose at the bracket on the lower arm (see
illustration). Plug the ends of the pipe and
hose to prevent leakage and dirt ingress, then
detach the hose from the bracket by removing
the U-shaped retaining clip.
24Remove the handbrake cable from the
clip on the lower arm.
25Unbolt the brake caliper and tie it to one
side, taking care not to strain the brake hose.
26Mark the position of the brake disc in
relation to the hub, remove the retaining spire
washer(s), and remove the disc.
27Disconnect the driveshaft from the hub
assembly by unscrewing the six securing
bolts. Support the driveshaft to avoid strainingthe joints, or alternatively, unbolt it from the
final drive unit at the inboard end and remove
the driveshaft from the vehicle. At all times,
avoid bending the driveshaft joints to
excessive angles, and do not allow the shaft
to hang down from one end.
28Unscrew and remove the rear hub nut,
and using a puller pull off the drive flange.
29Unscrew the four bolts securing the hub
carrier and splash shield to the lower arm.
Remove the hub carrier and splash shield.
Note that the stub axle is retained in the hub
carrier.
30Disconnect the ABS sensor, and detach
the lead from the clip on the lower arm.
31Remove the propeller shaft.
32Proceed as shown in paragraphs 7 to 14
inclusive.
Refitting
33Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points.
34Where applicable, secure the larger front
guide plate bolt by bending up the lockwasher
tabs.
35When refitting the hub carrier to the lower
arm note that there are two types of bolts used
. The two types of bolt must not be mixed on a
vehicle, but can be changed in complete sets
for the alternative type. A complete set is eight
bolts, four each side. Note that the two types
of bolt have different torque wrench settings.
When renewing the wheel bearings a suitable
puller will be required to remove the drive
flange, and a new rear hub nut must be used
on reassembly.36When refitting the drive flange to the hub
assembly, use a new hub nut, and leave
tightening until the vehicle is resting on its
wheels. Apply the handbrake and chock the
relevant rear wheel when tightening the nut.
37When refitting the brake disc, align the
previously made marks on disc and hub.
38Before tightening the lower
arm-to-crossmember pivot bolts and nuts,
lower the vehicle so that its weight is resting
on the roadwheels, and bounce the vehicle to
settle the suspension. Ensure that the bolts
are orientated as noted during removal.
39On completion, bleed the brakes and
adjust the handbrake.
Saloon and Hatchback models
1With the weight of the vehicle resting on the
roadwheels, work under the vehicle to
unscrew and remove the shock absorber
lower mounting bolt and nut from the relevant
lower arm (see illustration). If desired, the
rear of the vehicle can be raised on ramps to
improve access.
2Working inside the rear of the vehicle,
remove the trim cover behind the side
cushion. The cover is secured by two
self-tapping screws (see illustrations).
12Rear shock absorber -
removal and refitting
Suspension and steering 11•9
11
11.23 Rear suspension lower arm brake
pipe brackets (arrowed)
A Left-hand bracketB Right-hand bracket
12.1 Rear shock absorber lower mounting
- Saloon and Hatchback models
11.12 Lower arm-to-crossmember inner
pivot11.10 Rear suspension front guide plate
12.2a Remove the trim cover . . .

3With an assistant supporting the shock
absorber from below, unscrew and remove
the upper mounting bolt and nut. Withdraw
the shock absorber from under the vehicle.
4Refitting is a reversal of removal. Tighten
the mounting bolts securely.
Estate models
Note: On models fitted with heavy duty
Nivomat shock absorbers, follow the
procedure given in Section 13, as the shock
absorber and coil spring are an integrated unit.
5With the weight of the vehicle resting on the
roadwheels, work under the vehicle to unscrew
and remove the two shock absorber lower
mounting bolts from the relevant lower arm(see
illustration).If desired, the rear of the vehicle
can be raised on ramps to improve access.
6Working inside the rear of the vehicle, fold
down the rear seat backrest, fold back the
floor covering and remove the front section of
the luggage compartment floor, which is
secured with 12 self-tapping screws.
7With an assistant supporting the shock
absorber from below, unscrew and remove
the upper mounting nut and washer (see
illustration). Withdraw the shock absorber
from under the vehicle.
8Refitting is a reversal of removal. Tighten
the mounting bolts and nut securely.
P100 models
9With the weight of the vehicle resting on the
roadwheels, work under the vehicle to
unscrew and remove the shock absorber
lower mounting nut, washer, and rubber
insulator. If desired, the rear of the vehicle can
be raised on ramps to improve access.10Unscrew and remove the top mounting
bolt, nut and washer from the chassis
crossmember. Withdraw the shock absorber
upwards.
11Refitting is a reversal of removal. Tighten
the mounting bolt and nut securely.
Models with rear drum brakes
1Remove the relevant driveshaft.
2Unscrew the brake pipe from the brake
hose at the bracket on the vehicle underbody.
Plug the ends of the pipe and hose to prevent
leakage and dirt ingress.
3Where applicable, prise the anti-roll bar
connecting strap from the lower arm.
4Support the lower arm on a jack, and raise
it slightly to place the coil spring under load.
5On Saloon and Hatchback models, unscrew
and remove the shock absorber lower
mounting bolt and nut from the lower arm.
6On Estate models fitted with standard
shock absorbers, remove the shock absorber
as described in Section 12. On Estate models
fitted with heavy duty Nivomat shock
absorbers, disconnect the upper and lower
mountings.
7Unscrew and remove the three bolts
securing the front guide plate to the
underbody and the suspension crossmember.
Where applicable, bend back the lockwasher
tab(s) on the larger bolt.8Lower the lower arm, and remove the coil
spring, or coil spring/heavy duty shock
absorber as applicable, and the rubber cup.
9Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing in
mind the following points.
10Where applicable, secure the larger front
guide plate bolt by bending up the lockwasher
tab(s).
11Refit the driveshaft.
12On completion, bleed the brakes.
Models with rear disc brakes
13Chock the front wheels, jack up the rear of
the vehicle and support on axle stands placed
under the side members.
14Disconnect the driveshaft from the hub
assembly by unscrewing the six securing
bolts. Support the driveshaft to avoid straining
the joints, or alternatively, unbolt it from the
final drive unit at the inboard end and remove
the driveshaft from the vehicle. At all times,
avoid bending the driveshaft joints to
excessive angles, and do not allow the shaft
to hang down from one end.
15Proceed as shown in paragraphs 2 to 8
inclusive.
16Refitting is a reversal of removal. Where
applicable, secure the larger front guide plate
bolt by bending up the lockwasher tab(s), and
on completion, bleed the brakes.
Saloon, Hatchback and Estate
models
With rear drum brakes
Note: There are two types of bolts used to
secure the rear hub carrier to the lower arm
(see illustration). The two types of bolt must
not be mixed on a vehicle, but can be changed
in complete sets for the alternative type. A
complete set is eight bolts, four each side.
Note that the two types of bolt have different
torque wrench settings. When renewing the
wheel bearings a suitable puller will be
required to remove the drive flange, and a new
rear hub nut must be used on reassembly.
1Loosen the rear hub nut with the vehicle
resting on its wheels. On early models, relieve
the staking before loosening the nut (see
illustration). Later models use self-locking
14Rear wheel bearings -
renewal
13Rear coil spring (Saloon,
Hatchback and Estate
models) - removal and refitting
11•10Suspension and steering
12.5 Rear shock absorber lower mounting
bolts - Estate models
14.1a Alternative types of rear hub carrier-
to-lower arm securing bolts12.7 Rear shock absorber upper mounting
(arrowed) - Estate models
12.2b . . . for access to the rear shock
absorber upper mounting
14.1b On early models relieve the staking
(arrowed) on the rear hub nut

nuts, and it is important to note that where
this type of nut is fitted, the left-hand nut has
a left-hand thread, ie. it is undone in a
clockwise direction. Before loosening the nut,
ensure that the handbrake is applied, and
chock the relevant rear wheel. A suitable
extension bar will be required, as the nut is
extremely tight.
2Loosen the rear roadwheel nuts on the side
concerned, chock the front wheels, and jack
up the rear of the vehicle and support on axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
Remove the rear roadwheel.
3Remove the brake drum retaining spire
washer(s) from the wheel stud(s) and remove
the brake drum. Ensure that the handbrake is
released before removing the brake drum,
otherwise the drum will be held in place by the
clamping action of the brake shoes.
4Remove the two nylon fasteners, and
remove the plastic shield from the rear of the
brake backplate (see illustration).
5Unscrew and remove the rear hub nut.
6Using a suitable puller, pull the drive flange
from the end of the driveshaft (see
illustration).
7Unscrew and remove the four bolts
securing the hub carrier and brake backplate
to the lower arm (see illustration). Remove
the hub carrier, whilst supporting the
driveshaft. Support the driveshaft by placing
axle stands underneath it, or by securing with
string to the underbody. Note that the
driveshaft joints should not be allowed to
deflect through an angle exceeding 13º.
8Refit the brake backplate with the four
securing bolts to avoid straining the brake
pipe.
9With the hub carrier removed, the bearings
can be renewed as follows (see illustration).
10Prise the inner and outer oil seals from the
hub carrier using a suitable screwdriver, and
withdraw the taper roller bearings.
11Using a soft metal drift, drive the bearing
outer races from the hub carrier, taking care
not to damage the inner surface of the carrier.12Clean the hub carrier and drive flange with
paraffin, wipe dry and examine for damage
and wear. Note that the components are
machined to very close tolerances, and the
bearings are supplied in matched pairs,
therefore scrupulous cleanliness must be
observed.
13Using a metal tube of suitable diameter,
drive the new bearing outer races fully into the
hub carrier. Ensure that the races are seated
correctly.
14Pack the inner bearing races and rollers
with high-melting-point lithium-based grease,
and locate the outer bearing assembly in the
hub carrier.
15Fill the cavities between the sealing lips of
the oil seal with grease, then drive it fully into
the hub carrier using a block of wood or a
metal tube of suitable diameter. Note than on
early models the oil seal has a rubber casing,
and this type of seal should be replaced with
the later type which has a metal casing. The
oil seal should be renewed regardless of type,
and a new oil seal of the correct type is
normally supplied with the new wheel
bearings.
16Repeat the procedure shown in
paragraphs 14 and 15 for the outer bearing
and oil seal.17Fit the drive flange to the hub carrier in
order to centralise the bearings, then remove
the securing bolts from the brake backplate,
and using a soft-faced mallet, drive the drive
flange/hub carrier assembly onto the end of
the driveshaft.
18Further refitting is a reversal of removal,
bearing in mind the following points.
19Refit the hub carrier/brake
backplate-to-lower arm securing bolts with
reference to the note at the beginning of this
sub-Section.
20Fit a new rear hub nut of the correct type,
and tighten it with the vehicle resting on its
roadwheels. Apply the handbrake and chock
the relevant rear wheel. If a staked type nut is
used, lock the nut by staking its outer ring into
the groove in the driveshaft.
With rear disc brakes
Note: See note.at the beginning of this Section
21Loosen the rear hub nut with the vehicle
resting on its wheels. Note that the left-hand
nut has a left-hand thread, ie. it is undone in a
clockwise direction. Before loosening the nut,
ensure that the handbrake is applied, and
chock the relevant rear wheel. A suitable
extension bar will be required, as the nut is
extremely tight.
Suspension and steering 11•11
11
14.6 Pull the drive flange from the end of
the driveshaft
14.9 Rear hub carrier components - Saloon, Hatchback and
Estate models
A Outer oil seal
B Outer bearingC Hub carrier
D Inner bearingE Inner oil seal14.7 Rear hub carrier/brake backplate-to-lower arm securing
bolts
14.4 Remove the nylon fasteners (arrowed)
to free the plastic shield from the brake
backplate