wheel bolts FORD SIERRA 1990 2.G Braking System Workshop Manual

Torque wrench settingsNmlbf ft
Caliper carrier bracket-to-hub carrier bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .51 to 6138 to 45
Front caliper guide bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 to 2515 to 18
Rear caliper guide bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31 to 3523 to 26
Rear brake backplate nuts - P100 models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45 to 5433 to 40
Servo-to-bulkhead nuts (conventional braking system) . . . . . . . . . . . . .35 to 4526 to 33
Master cylinder-to-servo nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 to 2515 to 18
Hydraulic unit-to-bulkhead nuts (ABS) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41 to 5130 to 38
Hydraulic unit accumulator (ABS) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34 to 4625 to 34
Pump mounting bolt (ABS) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 to 95 to 7
High pressure hose-to-pump union (ABS) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 to 125 to 9
Wheel sensor mounting bolts (ABS) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 to 116 to 8
General information
The braking system is of the dual circuit
hydraulic type. The front and rear circuits are
operated independently from a tandem
master cylinder, so that in the event of a
hydraulic failure in one circuit, full braking
force will still be available to two wheels
through the remaining circuit.
A deceleration sensitive valve on Saloon,
Hatchback and Estate models not fitted with
an Anti-lock Braking System (ABS), and a load
apportioning valve on P100 models, is
incorporated in the rear brake hydraulic
circuit. The valve regulates the pressure
applied to the rear brakes and reduces the
possibility of the rear wheels locking under
heavy braking.
All models are fitted with front disc brakes,
with solid or ventilated discs depending on
model. The calipers are of single piston sliding
type, which ensures that equal pressure is
applied to each disc pad.
Non-ABS models are fitted with rear disc
brakes or rear drum brakes, incorporating
leading and trailing shoes operated by
double-acting wheel cylinders. A self-adjuster
mechanism is fitted which consists of a
toothed quadrant which is kept in contact with
a toothed pin attached to the shoe strut by
means of a spring. The quadrant incorporates
an arm which locates in a slot in the leading
shoe. As the shoe linings wear the quadrant is
pulled from the pin when the footbrake is
operated, and automatically repositioned to
effectively lengthen the shoe strut.
ABS is available as an option for all models
except the P100. The system comprises an
electronic control unit, roadwheel sensors,
hydraulic actuator with electrically-driven
hydraulic pump, and the necessary valves and
switches. Disc brakes are fitted to all four
wheels. The front disc brakes are similar to
those fitted to non-ABS models, but the rear
brakes incorporate a self-adjusting
mechanism, and a mechanical handbrake
mechanism. The purpose of the system is to
prevent wheel(s) locking during heavy brake
applications. This is achieved by automatic
release of the brake on the locked wheel,followed by reapplication of the brake. This
procedure is carried out four times per second
by the control valves in the valve block. The
valves are controlled by the electronic control
unit which itself receives signals from the
wheel sensors, which monitor the locked or
unlocked state of the wheels. A pressure
regulating valve is incorporated in the rear
hydraulic circuit to maintain the desired
pressure ratio between the front and rear
circuits.
Precautions
Note: Hydraulic fluid is poisonous; wash off
immediately and thoroughly in the case of skin
contact and seek immediate medical advice if
any fluid is swallowed or gets into the eyes.
Certain types of hydraulic fluid are
inflammable and may ignite when allowed into
contact with hot components; when servicing
any hydraulic system it is safest to assume
that the fluid is inflammable and to take
precautions against the risk of fire as though it
is petrol that is being handled. Hydraulic fluid
is also an effective paint stripper and will
attack plastics; if any is spilt, it should be
washed off immediately using copious
quantities of fresh water. Finally, it is
hygroscopic (it absorbs moisture from the air)
old fluid may be contaminated and unfit for
further use. When topping-up or renewing the
fluid, always use the recommended type and
ensure that it comes from a freshly-opened
sealed container
Note: When working on the brake
components, take care not to disperse brake
dust into the air, or to inhale it, since it may
contain asbestos which is injurious to health.
General
1If any of the hydraulic components in the
braking system have been removed or
disconnected, or if the fluid level in the
reservoir has been allowed to fall appreciably,
it is inevitable that air will have been
introduced into the system. The removal of all
this air from the hydraulic system is essential
if the brakes are to function correctly, and the
process of removing it is known as bleeding.
2Where an operation has only affected one
circuit (front or rear) of the hydraulic system,
then it will only be necessary to bleed the
relevant circuit. If the master cylinder has
been disconnected and reconnected, or the
fluid level has been allowed to fall
appreciably, then the complete system must
be bled.
3One of three methods can be used to bleed
the system.
Bleeding
Two-man method
4Gather together a clean jar and a length of
rubber or plastic bleed tubing which will fit the
bleed screws tightly. The help of an assistant
will be required.
5Remove the dust cap where fitted, and
clean around the bleed screw on the relevant
caliper or wheel cylinder, then attach the
bleed tube to the screw (see illustration). If
the complete system is being bled, start at the
front left-hand caliper.
6Check that the fluid reservoir is topped up
and then destroy the vacuum in the brake
servo by giving several applications of the
brake pedal.
7Immerse the open end of the bleed tube in
the jar which should contain two or three
inches of hydraulic fluid. The jar should be
positioned about 300 mm (12.0 in) above the
bleedscrew to prevent any possibility of air
entering the system down the threads of the
bleed screw when it is slackened.
2Brake hydraulic system
(conventional braking system)
- bleeding1General information and
precautions
10•2Braking system
2.5 Removing the dust cap from a wheel
cylinder bleed screw
Caution: Refer to the
precautions in Section 1.

the caliper, free it using a screwdriver with the
guide pin bolt fitted, as shown (see
illustration). Do not use a screwdriver to free
the inboard pad, as this may damage the
piston dust seal. The inboard pad can be
freed by hand after lowering the caliper.
8Brush all dust and dirt from the caliper,
pads and disc, but do not inhale it as it may
be injurious to health. Scrape any corrosion
from the disc.
9As the new pads will be thicker than the old
ones, the piston must be pushed squarely into
its bore to accommodate the new thicker
pads. Depressing the piston will cause the
fluid level in the reservoir to rise so to avoid
spillage, syphon out some fluid using an old
hydrometer or a teat pipette. Do not lever
between the piston and disc to depress the
piston ideally a spreader tool, applying equal
force to both sides of the caliper, should be
used (see illustration).
10Further refitting is a reversal of removal
bearing in mind the following points.
11If disc pads with wear sensors are fitted,
the pad with the sensor wire should be fitted
inboard.
12Ensure that the anti-rattle clips are
correctly located on the caliper.
13Repeat the procedure on the opposite
front brake.
14On completion, apply the footbrake hard
several times to settle the pads, then check
and if necessary top-up the fluid level in the
reservoir. 15Avoid heavy braking, if possible, for the
first hundred miles or so after fitting new
pads. This will allow the pads to bed in and
reach full efficiency.
Teves caliper (Later 1.6, 1.8 and 2.0
litre models)
16Prise the retaining clip from the caliper.
Hold it with a pair of pliers to avoid it causing
personal injury.
17Unclip the pad wear sensor from the
caliper, and disconnect the wiring plug (see
illustration).
18Using a 7 mm Allen key, unscrew and
remove the two guide bolts securing the
caliper to the carrier bracket, and withdraw
the caliper (see illustration). Support the
caliper on an axle stand to avoid straining the
hydraulic hose.19Withdraw the disc pads from the caliper
(see illustration). It may be necessary to prise
the outboard pad with a screwdriver to
release it from the caliper. Do not use a
screwdriver to free the inboard pad, as this
may damage the piston dust seal.
20Proceed as described in paragraphs 8 to
15 inclusive, but in addition ensure that the
clip on the back of the inboard pad fits into
the piston recess (see illustration), refit the
caliper retaining clip, and ignore the reference
to the anti-rattle clips (see illustration). On
P100 models align the previously made marks
on the roadwheels and wheel studs.
Late model modification
21On some later models, slightly revised
front brake components are used. A new type
of retaining clip is used to secure the pads in
10•4Braking system
4.7 Correct and incorrect methods of freeing stuck outboard disc pad. Guide pin bolt (A)
must be in position - Girling caliper
4.9 Using a spreader tool to depress the
caliper piston into its bore
4.19 Withdraw the disc pads from the
caliper - Teves caliper4.18 Withdrawing a caliper from its carrier
bracket - Teves caliper
4.17 Disconnect the pad wear sensor
wiring plug - Teves caliper

the caliper, and the caliper body is modified
accordingly. Also, plastic covers are fitted to
the caliper guide bolts (see illustrations).
22Procedures are unchanged from those
given above.
Rear disc pads
23Slacken the rear roadwheel nuts, chock
the front wheels, then jack up the rear of the
vehicle and support on axle stands. (see
“Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Remove the
roadwheel.
24The disc pads can be inspected through
the top of the caliper after removal of the
blanking spring clip. Check that the friction
material thickness is not less than the
minimum given in the Specifications.
25If any one of the pads has worn below the
specified limit, the rear pads must be renewedas an axle set (4 pads).
26To renew the pads, proceed as follows.
27Release the handbrake, and free the
handbrake cable from the suspension lower
arm by bending back the tangs.
28Where applicable, disconnect the wiring
to the disc pad wear sensor (see illustration).
29Unscrew and remove the bolt from the
forward caliper guide pin, while holding the
pin stationary with a spanner (see
illustration).
30Swing the caliper rearwards and lift out
the disc pads (see illustration). Do not
depress the brake pedal with the caliper
removed.
31Brush all dirt and dust from the caliper,
pads and disc, but do not inhale it as it may
be injurious to health. Scrape any corrosion
from the disc.32As the new pads will be thicker than the
old ones, the piston must be retracted into its
bore to accommodate the new thicker pads.
Retracting the piston will cause the fluid level
in the reservoir to rise, so to avoid spillage,
syphon out some fluid using an old
hydrometer or a teat pipette. Retract the
caliper piston by turning it clockwise. Ford
tool No 12-006 is designed for this purpose,
but a pair of circlip pliers or any similar tool
can be used instead (see illustration).
33Remove the backing paper from the new
pads, and fit them to the caliper.
34Further refitting is a reversal of removal,
bearing in mind the following points.
35If disc pads with wear sensors are fitted,
the pad with the sensor wire should be fitted
inboard.
36Repeat the procedure on the opposite
rear brake.
37On completion, switch on the ignition and
apply the footbrake hard several times to
settle the pads. Switch off the ignition, then
check and if necessary top-up the fluid level in
the reservoir. Check the operation of the
handbrake.
38Avoid heavy braking, if possible, for the
first hundred miles or so after fitting new
pads. This will allow the pads to bed in and
reach full efficiency.
Braking system 10•5
10
4.21a Later type front disc pad retaining
clip
4.32 Retracting the piston using circlip
pliers4.30 Lift out the disc pads
4.28 Rear disc pad wear sensor wiring clip
(arrowed)
4.29 Unscrewing the forward caliper guide
pin bolt
4.21b Removing a caliper guide bolt cover
- later type
4.20b Refitting the caliper retaining clip -
Teves caliper4.20a The clip on the back of the inboard
disc pad fits into the piston recess - Teves
caliper

27Unhook the return springs and remove the
leading shoe. Note the direction of wheel
rotation arrows on the shoes.
28Remove the hold-down cup, spring and
pin from the trailing (rear) shoe by depressing
the cup and turning it through 90º.
29Withdraw the trailing shoe and disconnect the
handbrake cable from the lever (see illustration).30Unhook the springs from the trailing shoe
and remove the self-adjuster strut.
31Clean and inspect all components and
lubricate the shoe contact points on the
backplate - refer to illustration, paragraph 10.
Take care not to inhale any dust, as it may be
injurious to health.32Commence reassembly by fitting the
springs to the trailing shoe and attaching the
self-adjuster strut.
33Attach the handbrake cable to the lever
and position the trailing shoe on the wheel
cylinder and anchor bracket. Ensure that the
upper return spring is located on the
self-adjuster strut.
34Refit the hold-down pin, spring and cup to
the trailing shoe.
35Connect the return springs to the leading
shoe, then locate the lower end in the anchor
bracket and lever the upper end onto the
toothed quadrant lever and wheel cylinder. Be
careful not to damage the wheel cylinder
rubber boot.
36Refit the hold-down pin, spring and cup to
the leading shoe.
37Using a screwdriver, push the
self-adjuster toothed quadrant fully towards
the backplate to its initial setting.
38Proceed as described in paragraphs 19 to
23 inclusive, but on P100 models, align the
previously made marks on the brake drums
and wheel studs, and on the roadwheels and
brake drums.
Removal
1Apply the handbrake, loosen the relevant
roadwheel nuts, then jack up the front of the
vehicle and support on axle stands. (see
“Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Remove the
roadwheel. On P100 models, mark the
position of the roadwheel in relation to one of
the wheel studs before removal.
2Remove the brake fluid reservoir cap and
secure a piece of polythene over the filler
6Front disc caliper - removal,
overhaul and refitting
10•8Braking system
5.24 Exploded view of rear drum brake assembly - 1.8 and 2.0 litre models
A Leading brake shoe
B Dust-excluding seal
C Piston
D Piston seal
E SpringF Wheel cylinder housing
G Bolts
H Hold-down pin
J Brake backplate
K Adjuster plungerL Trailing brake shoe
M Self-adjuster strut
N Hold-down spring and
cup
5.25 Leading shoe hold-down cup (arrowed)5.29 Removing the trailing brake shoe
A Handbrake cable and slot
Caution: Refer to the
precautions in Section 1.

neck with a rubber band, or by refitting the
cap. This will reduce the loss of fluid during
the following procedure.
3Disconnect the flexible fluid hose from the
rigid brake pipe under the wing of the vehicle,
or alternatively unscrew the flexible hose from
the union on the caliper. Take care not to twist
the hose, and plug the open ends to prevent
fluid loss and dirt ingress.
4Remove the disc pads.
5On models fitted with Girling calipers (1.3
and early 1.6 litre models) (see illustration),
unscrew and remove the bolt from the lower
caliper guide pin, while holding the pin
stationary with a spanner, then remove the
caliper.
6On models fitted with Teves calipers (later
1.6, 1.8 and 2.0 litre models) (see
illustration), remove the caliper from the
vehicle.
7If required, the caliper carrier bracket can
be unbolted and removed from the hub
carrier.
Overhaul
8Brush away all external dirt and dust, but
take care not to inhale any dust as it may be
injurious to health.
9Pull the dust-excluding rubber seal from the
end of the piston.
10Apply air pressure to the fluid inlet union,
and eject the piston. Only low air pressure is
required for this, such as is produced by a
foot-operated tyre pump. Position a thin piece
of wood between the piston and caliper body
to prevent damage to the end face of the
piston in the event of its being ejected
suddenly.
11Using a suitable pointed instrument, prise
the piston seal from the groove in the cylinder
bore. Take care not to scratch the surface of
the bore.
12Clean the piston and caliper body with
methylated spirit and allow to dry. Examine
the surfaces of the piston and cylinder bore
for wear, damage and corrosion. If the piston
surface alone is unserviceable, a new piston
must be obtained, along with seals. If the
cylinder bore is unserviceable, the complete
caliper must be renewed. The seals must be
renewed regardless of the condition of the
other components.
13Coat the piston and seals with clean
brake fluid, then manipulate the piston seal
into the groove in the cylinder bore.
14Push the piston squarely into its bore.
15Fit the dust-excluding rubber seal
between the piston and caliper, then depress
the piston fully.
Refitting
16Refit the caliper and where applicable the
carrier bracket by reversing the removal
operations. Tighten the mounting bolts to the
specified torque.17On P100 models, when refitting the
roadwheel align the previously made marks
on the roadwheel and wheel stud.18On completion, bleed the front brake
circuit.
Braking system 10•9
10
6.6 Exploded view of Teves front disc caliper
A Guide bolts
B Caliper carrier bracket
C Caliper retaining clipD Disc pads
E Dust-excluding seal
F Piston sealG Piston
H Caliper
6.5 Exploded view of Girling front disc caliper
A Caliper
B Guide pin and dust
bootC Piston seal
D Piston
E Dust-excluding sealF Disc pads
G Caliper carrier bracket

Note: Complete dismantling of the rear caliper
should not be attempted unless Ford spring
compressor (tool No 12-007) is available, or
unless the problems likely to arise in the
absence of the tool are understood. Renewal
of the piston seal dust-excluding seal and
piston adjuster nut seal requires no special
tools.
Removal
1With the ignition switched off, pump the
brake pedal at least 20 times, or until it
becomes hard, to depressurise the system.
2Chock the front wheels, slacken the
relevant roadwheel nuts, then jack up the rear
of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see
“Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Remove the
roadwheel and release the handbrake.
3Where applicable, disconnect the wiring to
the disc pad wear sensor.
4Proceed as described in Section 6,
paragraphs 2 and 3, but note that the rigid
brake pipe is clipped to the suspension lower
arm.
5Unscrew and remove the two guide bolts
securing the caliper to the carrier bracket,
while holding the pins with a spanner. Unhookthe handbrake cable from the lever, and
withdraw the caliper. Alternatively, the two
carrier bracket-to-hub carrier bolts can be
unscrewed, and the caliper and carrier can be
separated on the bench, but in this case the
handbrake cable must be disconnected from
the carrier bracket by removing the retaining
circlip.
Overhaul
6Clean the caliper, taking care not to inhale
any dust which may be injurious to health, and
mount it in a soft-jawed vice.
7Rotate the piston anti-clockwise, using
Ford tool No 12-006, or a pair of circlip pliers
or similar tool, until it protrudes from the
caliper bore by approximately 20.0 mm (0.8
in). Free the dust-excluding seal from the
groove in the piston, then continue
unscrewing the piston and remove it. Remove
and discard the dust-excluding seal.
8The piston and bore may now be cleaned
and examined as described in Section 6,
paragraph 12.
9The piston adjuster nut seal should be
renewed as follows.
10Remove the circlip from the piston, then
extract the thrustwashers, wave washer and
thrust bearing. Note the fitted sequence of
these components. Finally remove the nut
(see illustrations).
11Remove the seal from the nut, noting
which way round it is fitted. Clean the nut with
methylated spirit. Lubricate the new seal with
clean hydraulic fluid and fit it to the nut.12If no further dismantling is required,
proceed to paragraph 20.
13For further dismantling it is virtually
essential to have Ford tool 12-007 in order to
compress the adjuster spring. This tool
appears to be a cut-down adjuster nut with a
handle for turning it. In the workshop it was
found that the actual piston adjuster nut could
be used to compress the spring if it were
turned with circlip pliers (see illustration).
This works well enough for dismantling, but
reassembly proved extremely difficult
because of the limited clearance between the
skirt of the nut and the caliper bore.
14Having compressed the adjuster spring
just enough to take the load off the circlip,
release the circlip inside the caliper bore.
Remove the spring compressor, then extract
the circlip, spring cover, spring and washer
(see illustrations).
7Rear disc caliper - removal,
overhaul and refitting
10•10Braking system
7.10a Remove the circlip from the rear
caliper piston . . .7.10c . . . a wave washer and (not shown)
another thrustwasher . . .
7.14a Extract the circlip from the caliper
bore . . .
7.13 Using the piston adjuster nut to
compress the adjuster spring7.10e . . . and finally the adjuster nut itself.
Note the seal (arrowed) on the nut7.10d . . . then the thrust bearing . . .
7.10b . . . followed by the thrustwasher . . .
Caution: Refer to the
precautions in Section 1.

Specifications. To do this, fix the measuring
equipment, and rotate the disc, noting the
variation in measurement as the disc is
rotated. The difference between the minimum
and maximum measurements recorded is
known as disc run-out.
5Mark the position of the brake disc in
relation to the drive flange and on Saloon,
Hatchback and Estate models, remove the
retaining screw or spire washer(s), as
applicable, and remove the disc. On P100
models, also mark the position of the wheel
adapter plate in relation to the disc and drive
flange, then unscrew the five retaining nuts
and remove the wheel adapter plate and disc.
6Refitting is a reversal of removal, but when
refitting ensure that the mating faces of the
disc, drive flange and on P100 models the
wheel adapter plate, are clean. Align the
marks made on the disc, drive flange, and
where applicable the wheel adapter plate,
during removal. Refit the disc caliper and
carrier bracket.
Rear disc
7Chock the front wheels, loosen the relevant
roadwheel nuts, then jack up the rear of the
vehicle and support on axle stands.(see
“Jacking and Vehicle Support”).Remove the
roadwheel and release the handbrake.
8Detach the handbrake cable from the
retaining clip on the lower arm.
9Unscrew the two caliper carrier
bracket-to-hub carrier bolts and remove the
caliper assembly. Support the caliper on an
axle stand to avoid straining the flexible hose.
10Proceed as described in paragraphs 3
and 4.
11Mark the position of the brake disc in
relation to the drive flange, remove the
retaining spire washer(s), and withdraw the
disc.
12Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
ensure that the mating faces of the disc and
drive flanges are clean, and align the marks
made on the disc and drive flange during
removal.
1Whenever a brake drum is removed, brush
out the dust, taking care not to inhale any, as
it may be injurious to health.
2Examine the internal friction surface of the
drum. If deeply scored, or so worn that the
drum has become ridged to the width of the
shoes, then both drums must be renewed.
3Regrinding is not recommended as the
internal diameter of the drum will no longer be
compatible with the shoe friction material
contact diameter.
Saloon, Hatchback and Estate
models
1Chock the front wheels, loosen the relevant
roadwheel nuts, then jack up the rear of the
vehicle and support on axle stands (see
“Jacking and Vehicle Support”).Remove the
roadwheel and release the handbrake.
2Remove the retaining spire washer(s) from
the wheel stud(s) and pull off the brake drum.
If the drum will not pass over the shoes, it is
possible to release the automatic adjuster
mechanism by inserting a screwdriver through
the small hole in the drum and pressing down
on the ratchet.
3Remove the brake fluid reservoir cap and
secure a piece of polythene over the filler
neck with a rubber band, or by refitting the
cap. This will reduce the loss of fluid during
the following procedure.
4Unscrew the union nut and disconnect the
fluid pipe from the wheel cylinder (see
illustration). Plug the open ends of the pipe
and wheel cylinder to prevent fluid loss and
dirt ingress.
5Pull the tops of the brake shoes apart so
that the self-adjuster mechanism holds them
clear of the wheel cylinder.
6Unscrew the two retaining bolts from the
rear of the brake backplate, and withdraw the
wheel cylinder and sealing ring.
7The wheel cylinder can now be dismantled
as follows.
8Prise the dust-excluding rubber seals from
the ends of the wheel cylinder, and withdraw
the pistons and central spring, identifying the
pistons so that they can be refitted in their
original positions.
9Prise the seals from the pistons.
10Clean all the components in methylated
spirit and allow to dry. Examine the surfaces
of the pistons and cylinder bore for wear,
scoring and corrosion. If evident, the
complete wheel cylinder must be renewed,
but if the components are in good condition,
discard the seals and obtain a repair kit.
11Dip the new seals in clean brake fluid and
fit them to the piston grooves, using fingers
only to manipulate them. Ensure that the seal
lips face into the wheel cylinder.
12Carefully insert the pistons and central
spring into the cylinder, and fit the
dust-excluding rubber seals. Ensure that the
pistons are fitted in their original positions.
13Wipe the brake backplate clean, then fit
the wheel cylinder together with a new sealing
ring, and tighten the securing bolts.14Reconnect the fluid pipe to the wheel
cylinder and tighten the union nut.
15Using a screwdriver, push the
self-adjuster toothed quadrant fully towards
the backplate to its initial setting.
16Further refitting is a reversal of removal,
but on completion apply the footbrake several
times in order to set the brake shoes in their
normal positions, and bleed the rear brake
circuit.
P100 models
17The procedure is as described in
paragraphs 1 to 16 inclusive, but with the
following differences.
18Before removing the roadwheel, mark its
position in relation to the brake drum.
Similarly, mark the position of the brake drum
in relation to one of the wheel studs. Align the
marks when refitting.
19The wheel cylinder is secured to the brake
backplate by a circlip instead of the two bolts
used on other models (see illustration).
Saloon, Hatchback and Estate
models
1Remove the rear brake shoes.
2Disconnect the handbrake cable from the
backplate by extracting the U-clip.
11Rear brake backplate (drum
brakes) - removal and refitting
10Rear wheel cylinder (drum
brakes) -removal,overhaul
andrefitting
9Brake drum -inspectionand
renewal
10•12Braking system
10.4 Fluid pipe union (1) and wheel cylinder
retaining bolts (2)
10.19 Wheel cylinder securing circlip
(arrowed)
Caution: Refer to the
precautions in Section 1.
Caution: Refer to the
precautions in Section 1.

3Remove the wheel cylinder.
4Remove the driveshaft but do not refit the
securing bolts to the backplate.
5Remove the backplate.
6If required, prise out the handbrake stop
button.
7Refitting is a reversal of removal.
P 100 models
Note: When refitting the backplate, a new rear
hub nut and driveshaft O-ring must be used.
8Proceed as described in paragraphs 1 to 3
inclusive.
9Remove the driveshaft.
10Relieve the staking on the rear hub nut,
and using a 50 mm socket and a suitable
extension bar, unscrew the nut. Note that the
nut is extremely tight.
11Pull off the hub.
12Unscrew the six retaining nuts and
remove the backplate and the oil baffle (see
illustration).
13If required, prise out the handbrake stop
button.
14Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points.
15When refitting the backplate and the oil
baffle, coat the area of the oil baffle shown
(see illustration - Chapter 9) with sealant to
Ford spec SPM-4G-9112-F, then refit the
baffle and the backplate to the axle, tightening
the six securing nuts to the specified torque.
16Use a new rear hub nut, and tighten to the
specified torque. Stake the nut into the groove
in the axle tube after tightening.
17Refit the driveshaft, using a new O-ring.
Note: A suitable puller will be required to
remove the drive flange, and a new rear hub
nut must be used on reassembly.
Removal
1Loosen the rear hub nut with the vehicle
resting on its wheels. Note that the left-hand
nut has a left-hand thread, ie it is undone in a
clockwise direction. Before loosening the nut,
ensure that the handbrake is applied, and
chock the relevant rear wheel. A suitable
extension bar will be required, as the nut is
extremely tight.
2Loosen the relevant rear roadwheel nuts,
chock the front wheels, then jack up the rear
of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see
“Jacking and Vehicle Support”).Remove the
roadwheel and release the handbrake.
3Free the handbrake cable from its clip on
the suspension lower arm.
4Unscrew the two caliper carrier
bracket-to-hub carrier bolts, and remove the
caliper, supporting it on an axle stand to avoid
straining the flexible hose.
5Mark the position of the brake disc in
relation to the drive flange, remove the
retaining spire washer(s), and remove the
disc.
6Unscrew and remove the rear hub nut, and
using a suitable puller, pull off the drive flange.
7Unscrew the four bolts securing the hub
carrier and splash shield to the lower arm.
Remove the hub carrier and splash shield,
whilst supporting the driveshaft. Support the
driveshaft by placing axle stands underneath
it, or by securing with string to the underbody.
Avoid bending the driveshaft joints to
excessive angles, and do not allow the shaft
to hang down from one end.
Refitting
8Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing in
mind the following points.
9When reassembling the drive flange and the
hub carrier, fit the drive flange to the hub
carrier in order to centralise the bearings, then
using a soft-faced mallet, drive the drive
flange/hub carrier assembly onto the end of
the stub axle.10Refit the hub carrier/splash
shield-to-lower arm securing bolts. Note that
there are two types of bolts used to secure
the rear hub carrier to the lower arm. The two
types of bolt must not be mixed on a vehicle
but can be changed in complete sets for the
alternative type. A complete set is eight bolts,
four each side. Note that the two types of bolt
have different torque wrench settings. When
renewing the wheel bearings a suitable puller
will be required to remove the drive flange,
and a new rear hub nut must be used on
reassembly.
11When refitting the brake disc, align the
previously made marks on disc and drive
flange.
12Fit a new rear hub nut of the correct type,
and tighten it with the vehicle resting on its
roadwheels. Apply the handbrake and chock
the relevant rear wheel when finally tightening
the hub nut.
Note: Before commencing overhaul obtain a
repair kit containing new pistons and seals.
Removal
1Depress the brake pedal several times to
dissipate the vacuum in the servo.
2Disconnect the wiring plug from the low
fluid level switch on the fluid reservoir cap
(see illustration).
3Place a suitable container beneath the
master cylinder, then unscrew the union nuts
and disconnect the two fluid pipes. Plug the
ends of the pipes to prevent dirt ingress.
13Master cylinder (conventional
braking system) - removal,
overhaul and refitting
12Rear disc splash shield -
removal and refitting
Braking system 10•13
10
13.2 Disconnect the wiring plug from the low fluid level switch
(arrowed)11.12 Brake backplate and oil baffle retaining nuts
Caution: Refer to the
precautions in Section 1.
Caution: Refer to the
precautions in Section 1.

4Withdraw the module, and disconnect the
multi-plug (see illustration).
Refitting
5Refitting is a reversal of removal but on
completion check the operation of the ABS
warning lamp as described in the
manufacturer’s handbook.
Note: A new O-ring must be used when
refitting a sensor.
Front wheel sensor
1Apply the handbrake, loosen the relevant
front roadwheel nuts, then jack up the front of
the vehicle and support on axle stands (see
“Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Remove the
roadwheel.
2Working under the bonnet, unclip the ABS
wiring loom from the chassis side member,
and disconnect the wheel sensor wiring plug.
3Unscrew the mounting bolt and withdraw
the sensor (see illustration).
4Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing in
mind the following points.
5Clean the bore in the hub carrier, and smear
the bore and the sensor with lithium based
grease.
6Use a new O-ring seal when refitting the
sensor.
Rear wheel sensor
7Chock the front wheels, loosen the relevant
rear roadwheel nuts, then jack up the rear of
the vehicle and support on axle stands.
Release the handbrake and remove the
roadwheel.
8Working inside the vehicle, lift up the rear
seat cushion, then remove the side kick panel
and fold the carpet forwards to gain access to
the wheel sensor wiring plug (see
illustrations).
9Remove the wiring plug from its clip, and
disconnect it.
10Prise out the floor panel grommet, then
feed the sensor wiring through the floor panel.
11Free the handbrake cable from its clip on
the suspension lower arm.12Where applicable, disconnect the wiring
to the disc pad wear sensor.
13Unscrew and remove the bolt from the
forward caliper guide pin, while holding the
pin stationary with a spanner.
14Swing the caliper rearwards to gain
access to the wheel sensor.
15Unscrew the bolt securing the sensor to
its mounting bracket.
16Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points.
17Clean the bore in the sensor mounting
bracket, and smear the bore and the sensor
with lithium based grease.
18Use a new O-ring seal when refitting the
sensor.
Removal
1The deceleration sensitive valve is located
on the left-hand side of the engine
compartment (see illustrations).
2Place a suitable container beneath the
valve to catch spilt fluid, then unscrew the
union nuts and disconnect the fluid pipes.Plug the open ends of the pipes and valve to
prevent fluid leakage and dirt ingress. If fluid is
accidentally spilt on the paintwork, wash off
immediately with cold water.
3On early models, the valve is secured to the
mounting bracket on the inner wing by a
single bolt. Unscrew the bolt and remove the
valve.
4On later models, the valve is secured to the
mounting bracket by a clip. Remove the clip
and slide out the valve.
Refitting
5Refitting is a reversal of removal, but note
that the early type of valve must be fitted with
the cover bolts facing forwards, and the later
type of valve must be fitted with the smaller
diameter stepped end facing forwards.
6On completion, bleed the rear hydraulic
circuit.
23Deceleration sensitive valve
(all models with conventional
braking system)
- removal and refitting
22Wheel sensor (ABS)
- removal and refitting
10•18Braking system
21.4 Withdraw the module and disconnect
the multi-plug - ABS22.8a Remove the side kick panel
(securing screws arrowed) for access to
the rear wheel sensor wiring plug - ABS
23.1b Later type deceleration sensitive
valve23.1a Early type deceleration sensitive
valve
22.8b Rear wheel sensor wiring plug
(arrowed) - ABS
22.3 Unscrew the mounting bolt and
withdraw the front wheel sensor - ABS
Caution: Refer to the
precautions in Section 1.

Removal
1Chock the front wheels, jack up the rear of
the vehicle and support on axle stands (see
“Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
2The load apportioning valve is located on
the right-hand side of the vehicle underbody
above the axle.
3Remove the spring clip and clevis pin, and
detach the spring from the valve operating
lever (see illustration).
4Place a suitable container beneath the
valve to catch spilt fluid, then unscrew the
union nuts and disconnect the fluid pipes.
Plug the open ends of the pipes and valve to
prevent fluid leakage and dirt ingress.
5Unscrew the three securing nuts and bolts
from the valve mounting bracket, and remove
the valve assembly (see illustration).
Refitting
6Refitting is a reversal of removal, but note
that the fluid inlet pipe from the master cylindermust be connected to the lower valve port, and
the fluid outlet pipe to the rear brakes must be
connected to the upper valve port.
7On completion, bleed the rear hydraulic
circuit and check the valve adjustment.
Models before mid-April 1989
1The vehicle must be unladen, at normal
kerb weight (a full tank of petrol, but no driver
or load).
2With the vehicle standing on its roadwheels,
remove the spring clip and clevis pin, and
detach the spring from the valve operating
lever.
3Loosen the locknut on the abutment block
at the bottom of the spring (see illustration).
4Slide the spring through the grommet in the
bracket on the axle, until the correct “X”
dimension is obtained between the centre of
the spring eye and the centre of the valve
operating lever eye (see illustration).
5Hold the spring in position, slide the
abutment block against the underside of the
grommet, and tighten the locknut.
6Attach the free end of the spring to the
valve operating lever, and refit the clevis pin
and spring clip.
Models from mid-April 1989
7The procedure is as described above, but
note that the dimension “X” has been revised
to 92.0 mm (3.6 in) with the vehicle unladen at
normal kerb weight.
Removal
1To remove a flexible hose, always free it
from any mounting bracket(s) first by prising
out the U-shaped retaining clip, and then
using two close-fitting spanners to disconnect
the hose-to-rigid pipe union (see illustration).
2Once disconnected from the rigid pipe, the
flexible hose may be unscrewed from the
caliper or wheel cylinder union, as applicable.
Refitting
3When reconnecting pipe or hose fittings,
note that the seal is made at the swaged end
of the pipe, so do not continue to tighten a
union if it is tight, yet still stands proud of the
surface into which it is screwed.
26Brake fluid pipes and hoses
- removal and refitting25Load apportioning valve
(P100 models) - adjustment
24Load apportioning valve
(P100 models) - removal and
refitting
Braking system 10•19
10
25.3 Loosen the locknut (arrowed) on the
abutment block
26.1 Flexible hose-to-rigid pipe union. U-shaped retaining clip
arrowed25.4 Load apportioning valve adjustment
X = 77.0 mm (3.0 in) with vehicle unladen at normal kerb weight
24.5 Load apportioning valve securing
bolts (arrowed)24.3 Remove the spring clip (arrowed) and
clevis pin from the valve operating lever
Caution: Refer to the
precautions in Section 1.
Caution: Refer to the
precautions in Section 1.