roof rack FORD SIERRA 1990 2.G Reference Workshop Manual

General dimensions and Weights . . . . . . . . . . . .REF•1
Buying Spare Parts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .REF•3
Vehicle Identification Numbers . . . . . . . . . . . . . .REF•3
General Repair Procedures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .REF•4
Tools and Working Facilities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .REF•5MOT Test Checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .REF•7
Fault Diagnosis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .REF•11
Glossary of Technical Terms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .REF•18
Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .REF•23
ReferenceREF•1
REF
General dimensions and weights
Dimensions
Overall length:
Saloon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4467.0 mm (176.0 in)
Hatchback:
All models up to 1987 except GLS, 2.0iS and Ghia . . . . . . . . . . . . 4407.0 mm (173.6 in)
GLS and 2.0iS models up to 1987 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4460.0 mm (175.7 in)
Ghia models up to 1987 and all models from 1987 . . . . . . . . . . . . 4425.0 mm (174.3 in)
Estate:
All models up to 1987 except Ghia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4506.0 mm (177.5 in)
Ghia models up to 1987 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4522.0 mm (178.2 in)
All models from 1987 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4511.0 mm (177.7 in)
P100 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4900.0 mm (193.1 in)
Overall width:
All models up to 1987 except Base, GLS, 2.0iS and Ghia . . . . . . . . . 1867.0 mm (73.6 in)
Base models up to 1987 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1821.0 mm (71.7 in)
GLS, 2.0iS and Ghia models up to 1987 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1920.0 mm (75.6 in)
All models from 1987 except P100 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1694.0 mm (66.7 in)
P100 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1920.0 mm (75.6 in)
Saloon models from 1990 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1698.0 mm (66.9 in)
Hatchback models from 1990 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1694.0 mm (66.7 ln)
Estate models from 1990 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1720.0 mm (67.8 in)
Overall height:
Saloon:
All models except GLS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1359.0 mm (53.5 in)
GLS models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1352.0 mm (53.3 in)
Models from 1990 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1407.0 mm (55.4 in)
Hatchback:
All models up to 1987 except GLS and 2.0iS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1420.0 mm (55.9 in)
GLS and 2.0iS models up to 1987 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1392.0 mm (54.8 in)
All models from 1987 except GLS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1359.0 mm (53.5 in)
GLS models from 1987 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1352.0 mm (53.3 in)
Models from 1990 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1407.0 mm (55.4 in)
Estate:
All models up to 1987 except Base and Ghia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1443.0 mm (56.9 in)
Base models up to 1987 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1417.0 mm (55.8 in)
Ghia models up to 1987 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1506.0 mm (59.3 in)
Models from 1987 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1386.0 mm (54.6 in)
Models from 1990 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1428.0 mm (56.3 in)
P100 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1520.0 mm (59.9 in)
Weights
Kerb weight†:
Saloon:
Models before 1990 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1025 to 1135 kg (2260 to 2503 lbs)
Models from 1990 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1065 to 1240 kg (2343 to 2728 lbs)
Hatchback:
Models before 1990 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1010 to 1145 kg (2227 to 2525 lbs)
Models from 1990 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1065 to 1240 kg (2343 to 2728 lbs)
Estate:
Models before 1990 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1065 to 1186 kg (2348 to 2613 lbs)
Models from 1990 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1105 to 1190 kg (2431 to 2618 lbs)
P100 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1370 kg (3021 lbs)
Maximum gross vehicle weight . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Refer to VIN plate
Maximum roof rack load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 kg (165 lbs)
Minimum towing hitch downward load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 kg (55 lbs)
Maximum towing hitch downward load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 kg (110 lbs)
†Exact kerb weights depend upon model and specification

Whenever servicing, repair or overhaul work
is carried out on the car or its components, it
is necessary to observe the following
procedures and instructions. This will assist in
carrying out the operation efficiently and to a
professional standard of workmanship.
Joint mating faces and gaskets
When separating components at their
mating faces, never insert screwdrivers or
similar implements into the joint between the
faces in order to prise them apart. This can
cause severe damage which results in oil
leaks, coolant leaks, etc upon reassembly.
Separation is usually achieved by tapping
along the joint with a soft-faced hammer in
order to break the seal. However, note that
this method may not be suitable where
dowels are used for component location.
Where a gasket is used between the mating
faces of two components, ensure that it is
renewed on reassembly, and fit it dry unless
otherwise stated in the repair procedure.
Make sure that the mating faces are clean and
dry, with all traces of old gasket removed.
When cleaning a joint face, use a tool which is
not likely to score or damage the face, and
remove any burrs or nicks with an oilstone or
fine file.
Make sure that tapped holes are cleaned
with a pipe cleaner, and keep them free of
jointing compound, if this is being used,
unless specifically instructed otherwise.
Ensure that all orifices, channels or pipes
are clear, and blow through them, preferably
using compressed air.
Oil seals
Oil seals can be removed by levering them
out with a wide flat-bladed screwdriver or
similar implement. Alternatively, a number of
self-tapping screws may be screwed into the
seal, and these used as a purchase for pliers or
some similar device in order to pull the seal free.
Whenever an oil seal is removed from its
working location, either individually or as part
of an assembly, it should be renewed.
The very fine sealing lip of the seal is easily
damaged, and will not seal if the surface it
contacts is not completely clean and free from
scratches, nicks or grooves. If the original
sealing surface of the component cannot be
restored, and the manufacturer has not made
provision for slight relocation of the seal
relative to the sealing surface, the component
should be renewed.
Protect the lips of the seal from any surface
which may damage them in the course of
fitting. Use tape or a conical sleeve where
possible. Lubricate the seal lips with oil before
fitting and, on dual-lipped seals, fill the space
between the lips with grease.
Unless otherwise stated, oil seals must be
fitted with their sealing lips toward the
lubricant to be sealed.
Use a tubular drift or block of wood of the
appropriate size to install the seal and, if the
seal housing is shouldered, drive the seal
down to the shoulder. If the seal housing is
unshouldered, the seal should be fitted withits face flush with the housing top face (unless
otherwise instructed).
Screw threads and fastenings
Seized nuts, bolts and screws are quite a
common occurrence where corrosion has set
in, and the use of penetrating oil or releasing
fluid will often overcome this problem if the
offending item is soaked for a while before
attempting to release it. The use of an impact
driver may also provide a means of releasing
such stubborn fastening devices, when used
in conjunction with the appropriate
screwdriver bit or socket. If none of these
methods works, it may be necessary to resort
to the careful application of heat, or the use of
a hacksaw or nut splitter device.
Studs are usually removed by locking two
nuts together on the threaded part, and then
using a spanner on the lower nut to unscrew the
stud. Studs or bolts which have broken off
below the surface of the component in which
they are mounted can sometimes be removed
using a proprietary stud extractor. Always
ensure that a blind tapped hole is completely
free from oil, grease, water or other fluid before
installing the bolt or stud. Failure to do this could
cause the housing to crack due to the hydraulic
action of the bolt or stud as it is screwed in.
When tightening a castellated nut to accept
a split pin, tighten the nut to the specified
torque, where applicable, and then tighten
further to the next split pin hole. Never
slacken the nut to align the split pin hole,
unless stated in the repair procedure.
When checking or retightening a nut or bolt
to a specified torque setting, slacken the nut
or bolt by a quarter of a turn, and then
retighten to the specified setting. However,
this should not be attempted where angular
tightening has been used.
For some screw fastenings, notably
cylinder head bolts or nuts, torque wrench
settings are no longer specified for the latter
stages of tightening, “angle-tightening” being
called up instead. Typically, a fairly low torque
wrench setting will be applied to the
bolts/nuts in the correct sequence, followed
by one or more stages of tightening through
specified angles.
Locknuts, locktabs and washers
Any fastening which will rotate against a
component or housing in the course of tightening
should always have a washer between it and the
relevant component or housing.
Spring or split washers should always be
renewed when they are used to lock a critical
component such as a big-end bearing
retaining bolt or nut. Locktabs which are
folded over to retain a nut or bolt should
always be renewed.
Self-locking nuts can be re-used in non-
critical areas, providing resistance can be felt
when the locking portion passes over the bolt or
stud thread. However, it should be noted that
self-locking stiffnuts tend to lose their
effectiveness after long periods of use, and insuch cases should be renewed as a matter of
course.
Split pins must always be replaced with
new ones of the correct size for the hole.
When thread-locking compound is found
on the threads of a fastener which is to be re-
used, it should be cleaned off with a wire
brush and solvent, and fresh compound
applied on reassembly.
Special tools
Some repair procedures in this manual
entail the use of special tools such as a press,
two or three-legged pullers, spring
compressors, etc. Wherever possible, suitable
readily-available alternatives to the
manufacturer’s special tools are described,
and are shown in use. In some instances,
where no alternative is possible, it has been
necessary to resort to the use of a
manufacturer’s tool, and this has been done
for reasons of safety as well as the efficient
completion of the repair operation. Unless you
are highly-skilled and have a thorough
understanding of the procedures described,
never attempt to bypass the use of any
special tool when the procedure described
specifies its use. Not only is there a very great
risk of personal injury, but expensive damage
could be caused to the components involved.
Environmental considerations
When disposing of used engine oil, brake
fluid, antifreeze, etc, give due consideration to
any detrimental environmental effects. Do not,
for instance, pour any of the above liquids
down drains into the general sewage system,
or onto the ground to soak away. Many local
council refuse tips provide a facility for waste
oil disposal, as do some garages. If none of
these facilities are available, consult your local
Environmental Health Department for further
advice.
With the universal tightening-up of
legislation regarding the emission of
environmentally-harmful substances from
motor vehicles, most current vehicles have
tamperproof devices fitted to the main
adjustment points of the fuel system. These
devices are primarily designed to prevent
unqualified persons from adjusting the fuel/air
mixture, with the chance of a consequent
increase in toxic emissions. If such devices
are encountered during servicing or overhaul,
they should, wherever possible, be renewed
or refitted in accordance with the vehicle
manufacturer’s requirements or current
legislation.
REF•4General Repair Procedures
Note: It is
antisocial and
illegal to dump oil
down the drain. To
find the location of
your local oil
recycling bank,
call this number
free.

Special tools
The tools in this list are those which are not
used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which
need to be used in accordance with their
manufacturers’ instructions. Unless relatively
difficult mechanical jobs are undertaken
frequently, it will not be economic to buy
many of these tools. Where this is the case,
you could consider clubbing together with
friends (or joining a motorists’ club) to make a
joint purchase, or borrowing the tools against
a deposit from a local garage or tool hire
specialist. It is worth noting that many of the
larger DIY superstores now carry a large
range of special tools for hire at modest rates.
The following list contains only those tools
and instruments freely available to the public,
and not those special tools produced by the
vehicle manufacturer specifically for its dealer
network. You will find occasional references to
these manufacturers’ special tools in the text of
this manual. Generally, an alternative method
of doing the job without the vehicle
manufacturers’ special tool is given. However,
sometimes there is no alternative to using
them. Where this is the case and the relevant
tool cannot be bought or borrowed, you will
have to entrust the work to a franchised
garage.
MValve spring compressor
MValve grinding tool
MPiston ring compressor
MPiston ring removal/installation tool
MCylinder bore hone
MBalljoint separator
MCoil spring compressors (where applicable)
MTwo/three-legged hub and bearing puller
MImpact screwdriver
MMicrometer and/or vernier calipers
MDial gauge
MStroboscopic timing light
MDwell angle meter/tachometer
MUniversal electrical multi-meter
MCylinder compression gauge
MHand-operated vacuum pump and gauge
MClutch plate alignment set
MBrake shoe steady spring cup removal tool
MBush and bearing removal/installation set
MStud extractors
MTap and die set
MLifting tackle
MTrolley jack
Buying tools
For practically all tools, a tool factor is the
best source, since he will have a very
comprehensive range compared with the
average garage or accessory shop. Having
said that, accessory shops often offer
excellent quality tools at discount prices, so it
pays to shop around.
Remember, you don’t have to buy the most
expensive items on the shelf, but it is always
advisable to steer clear of the very cheap
tools. There are plenty of good tools around at
reasonable prices, but always aim to
purchase items which meet the relevant
national safety standards. If in doubt, ask the
proprietor or manager of the shop for advice
before making a purchase.
Care and maintenance of tools
Having purchased a reasonable tool kit, it is
necessary to keep the tools in a clean and
serviceable condition. After use, always wipe
off any dirt, grease and metal particles using a
clean, dry cloth, before putting the tools away.
Never leave them lying around after they have
been used. A simple tool rack on the garage
or workshop wall for items such as
screwdrivers and pliers is a good idea. Store
all normal spanners and sockets in a metal
box. Any measuring instruments, gauges,
meters, etc, must be carefully stored where
they cannot be damaged or become rusty.
Take a little care when tools are used.
Hammer heads inevitably become marked, and
screwdrivers lose the keen edge on their blades
from time to time. A little timely attention withemery cloth or a file will soon restore items like
this to a good serviceable finish.
Working facilities
Not to be forgotten when discussing tools
is the workshop itself. If anything more than
routine maintenance is to be carried out,
some form of suitable working area becomes
essential.
It is appreciated that many an owner-
mechanic is forced by circumstances to
remove an engine or similar item without the
benefit of a garage or workshop. Having done
this, any repairs should always be done under
the cover of a roof.
Wherever possible, any dismantling should
be done on a clean, flat workbench or table at
a suitable working height.
Any workbench needs a vice; one with a
jaw opening of 100 mm is suitable for most
jobs. As mentioned previously, some clean
dry storage space is also required for tools, as
well as for any lubricants, cleaning fluids,
touch-up paints and so on, which become
necessary.
Another item which may be required, and
which has a much more general usage, is an
electric drill with a chuck capacity of at least 8
mm. This, together with a good range of twist
drills, is virtually essential for fitting
accessories.
Last, but not least, always keep a supply of
old newspapers and clean, lint-free rags
available, and try to keep any working area as
clean as possible.
REF•6Tools and working facilities
Stroboscopic timing lightCylinder compression gaugeClutch plate alignment set
Micrometer setVernier calipers