warning FORD SIERRA 1990 2.G SOHC Engines Workshop Manual

Inlet valve stem diameter:
Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8.025 to 8.043 mm
Oversize 0.2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8.225 to 8.243 mm
Oversize 0.4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8.425 to 8.443 mm
Oversize 0.6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8.625 to 8.643 mm
Oversize 0.8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8.825 to 8.843 mm
Exhaust valve stem diameter:
Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7.999 to 8.017 mm
Oversize 0.2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8.199 to 8.217 mm
Oversize 0.4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8.399 to 8.417 mm
Oversize 0.6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8.599 to 8.617 mm
Oversize 0.8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8.799 to 8.817 mm
Lubrication system
Oil type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Multigrade engine oil, viscosity range SAE 10W/30 to 20W/50 to API
SG/CD or better
Oil capacity:
With filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3.75 litres (6.6 pints)
Without filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3.25 litres (5.7 pints)
Oil filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Champion C102
Oil pump clearances:
Outer rotor to body . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.153 to 0.304 mm (0.006 to 0.012 in)
Inner rotor to outer rotor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.050 to 0.200 mm (0.002 to 0.008 in)
Rotor endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.039 to 0.104 mm (0.002 to 0.004 in)
Torque wrench settingsNmlbf ft
Main bearing cap bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .88 to 10265 to 75
Big-end bearing cap nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 to 4730 to 35
Crankshaft pulley bolt:
Strength class 8.8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55 to 6041 to 44
Strength class 10.9 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .100 to 11574 to 85
Camshaft sprocket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45 to 5033 to 37
Auxiliary shaft sprocket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45 to 5033 to 37
Flywheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .64 to 7047 to 52
Oil pump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17 to 2113 to 15
Oil pump cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 to 137 to 10
Sump bolts:
Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1 to 20.7 to 1.5
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 to 84 to 6
Stage 3 (after running engine for 20 minutes) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 to 106 to 7
Sump drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21 to 2815 to 21
Oil pressure warning lamp switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 to 159 to 11
Valve adjustment ball-pin locknuts:
7 mm thick nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45 to 5033 to 37
8 mm thick nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50 to 5537 to 41
Cylinder head bolts:
Splined type bolts:
Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 to 5530 to 41
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50 to 7037 to 52
Stage 3 (after 20 minutes) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .73 to 8354 to 61
Stage 4 (after running engine for 15 minutes at 1000 rpm) . . . . . .95 to 11570 to 85
Torx type bolts:
Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35 to 4026 to 30
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .70 to 7552 to 55
Stage 3 (after 5 minutes) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Tighten through a further 90¼
Camshaft cover bolts:
Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 to 84 to 6
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2 to 31.5 to 2
Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 to 84 to 6
Stage 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 to 84 to 6
Timing cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13 to 1710 to 13
Timing belt tensioner bolts:
Models with tensioner spring:
Spring bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17 to 2113 to 15
Pivot bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 to 2515 to 18
Models without tensioner spring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 to 2515 to 18
Oil pick-up tube/strainer-to-oil pump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11 to 148 to 10
Oil pick-up tube/strainer-to-cylinder block bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17 to 2113 to 15
SOHC engines 2A¥3
2A

Piston ring end gap:
Top:
Up to 1985 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.038 to 0.048 mm
From 1985 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.400 to 0.600 mm
Centre:
Up to 1985 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.038 to 0.048 mm
From 1985 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.400 to 0.600 mm
Bottom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.400 to 1.400 mm
Auxiliary shaft
Endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.050 to 0.204 mm (0.002 to 0.008 in)
Cylinder head
Specifications as for 1.3 litre engine
Valves
Specifications as for 1.3 litre engine except for the following:
Valve clearance (cold engine):
Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.20 ±0.03 mm (0.008 ±0.001 in)
Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.25 ±0.003 mm (0.010 ±0.001 in)
Valve timing:All except code NAEEngine code NAE
Inlet opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24¼ BTDC18¼ BTDC
Inlet closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .64¼ ABDC58¼ ABDC
Exhaust opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .70¼ BBDC70¼ BBDC
Exhaust closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18¼ ATDC6¼ ATDC
Lubrication system
Specifications as for 1.3 litre engine
Torque wrench settingsNmlbf ft
Specifications as for 1.3 litre engine except for the following:
Crankshaft pulley bolt:
Fuel injection models up to 1987 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .115 to 13085 to 96
Fuel injection models from 1987 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .100 to 11574 to 85
SOHC engines 2A¥7
2A
The engine is of a four-cylinder, in-line,
single overhead camshaft type, mounted at
the front of the vehicle and available in 1.3,
1.6, 1.8 and 2.0 litre versions.
The crankshaft incorporates five main
bearings. Thrustwashers are fitted to the
centre main bearing in order to control
crankshaft endfloat.
The camshaft is driven by a toothed belt
and operates the slightly angled valves via
cam followers which pivot on ball-pins.
The auxiliary shaft which is also driven by
the toothed belt, drives the distributor, oil
pump and fuel pump.
The cylinder head is of crossflow design
with the inlet manifold mounted on the left-
hand side and the exhaust manifold mounted
on the right-hand side.
Lubrication is by means of a bi-rotor pump
which draws oil through a strainer located
inside the sump, and forces it through a full-
flow filter into the engine oil galleries where it
is distributed to the crankshaft, camshaft and
auxiliary shaft. The big-end bearings are
supplied with oil via internal drillings in the
crankshaft. The undersides of the pistons are
supplied with oil from drillings in the big-ends.
The distributor shaft is intermittently supplied
with oil from the drilled auxiliary shaft. The
camshaft followers are supplied with oil via adrilled spray tube from the centre camshaft
bearing.
A semi-closed crankcase ventilation system
is employed whereby piston blow-by gases
are drawn into the inlet manifold via an oil
separator and control valve.
Refer to Chapter 1, Section 8.
Refer to Chapter 1, Section 23.
Refer to Chapter 1, Section 35.
1When engine performance is poor, or if
misfiring occurs which cannot be attributed to
the ignition or fuel system, a compression test
can provide diagnostic clues. If the test is
performed regularly it can give warning of
trouble before any other symptoms become
apparent.2The engine must be at operating
temperature, the battery must be fully
charged and the spark plugs must be
removed. The services of an assistant will also
be required.
3Disable the ignition system by
disconnecting the coil LT feed. Fit the
compression tester to No 1 spark plug hole.
(The type of tester which screws into the
spark plug hole is to be preferred.)
4Have the assistant hold the throttle wide
open and crank the engine on the starter.
Record the highest reading obtained on the
compression tester.
5Repeat the test on the remaining cylinders,
recording the pressure developed in each.
6Desired pressures are given in the
Specifications. If the pressure in any cylinder
is low, introduce a teaspoonful of clean
engine oil into the spark plug hole and repeat
the test.
7If the addition of oil temporarily improves
the compression pressure, this indicates that
bore, piston or piston ring wear was
responsible for the pressure loss. No
improvement suggests that leaking or burnt
valves, or a blown head gasket, may be to
blame.
8A low reading from the two adjacent
cylinders is almost certainly due to the head
gasket between them having blown.
9On completion of the test, refit the spark
plugs and reconnect the coil LT feed.
5Compression test
4Crankcase ventilation system -
inspection and maintenance
3Valve clearances - checking and
adjustment
2Engine oil and filter - renewal
1General information

The following operations can be carried out
without removing the engine from the vehicle:
a)Removal and servicing of the cylinder
head
b)Removal of the camshaft after removal of
the cylinder head
c)Removal of the timing belt and sprockets
d)Removal of the sump
e)Removal of the oil pump
f)Removal of the pistons and connecting
rods
g)Removal of the big-end bearings
h)Removal of the engine mountings
i)Removal of the clutch and flywheel
j)Removal of crankshaft front and rear oil
seals
k)Removal of the auxiliary shaft
The following operations can only be carried
out after removing the engine from the
vehicle:
a)Removal of the crankshaft main bearings
b)Removal of the crankshaft
The engine may be lifted out either on its
own, or together with the manual
gearbox/automatic transmission. Unless work
is to be carried out on the manual
gearbox/automatic transmission, it is
recommended that the engine is removed on
its own. Where automatic transmission is
fitted, the engine should where possible be
removed on its own due to the additional
weight of the transmission. Note: The air conditioning system should
always be discharged by a Ford dealer or air
conditioning specialist.
Note: Refer to the warning in Section 8 before
proceeding. A suitable hoist and lifting tackle
will be required for this operation.
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the bonnet.
3On carburettor models remove the air cleaner.
4On fuel injection models, disconnect the
crankcase ventilation hose from the air inlet
hose, then disconnect the air inlet hose from
the throttle body. Depress the locking clip on
the airflow meter wiring plug and disconnect
the plug (pulling on the plug, not the wiring)
then release the four securing clips and lift off
the air cleaner lid with the airflow meter and
air inlet hose.
5Remove the four retaining clips and
unscrew the two retaining screws, then
withdraw the upper section of the cooling fan
shroud from the radiator. Unclip and remove
the lower section of the shroud.
6Remove the thermo-viscous cooling fan as
described in Chapter 3.
7Drain the cooling system.
8Disconnect the upper radiator hose and
where applicable, the expansion tank hose
from the thermostat housing.
9Disconnect the coolant hoses from the
coolant pump, and where applicable from the
inlet manifold and automatic choke. Unclip
the coolant hose from the bracket on the
exhaust manifold hot air shroud/heat shield,
or the camshaft cover, as applicable.
10On carburettor models, where applicable
disconnect the vacuum pipe from the engine
management module.
11Disconnect the brake servo vacuum pipe
from the inlet manifold.
12On carburettor models, disconnect the fuel
hoses from the carburettor and where
applicable the mechanical fuel pump and plug
the ends of the hoses to minimise petrol
spillage. Remember to take adequate fire
precautions.
13On fuel injection models, disconnect the
fuel feed line from the fuel pressure regulator,
then disconnect the fuel supply hose from thefuel rail. Position a suitable container beneath
the pressure regulator, then slowly loosen the
fuel feed union to relieve the pressure in the
fuel lines before disconnecting the union.
Take adequate fire precautions. Plug the ends
of the hoses to minimise petrol spillage.
14Disconnect the throttle cable, and where
applicable remove its bracket.
15Disconnect the HT lead from the ignition
coil.
16Disconnect the wiring from the following
components as applicable depending on
model:
Alternator
Starter motor
Distributor
Oil pressure warning lamp switch
Temperature gauge sender
Engine coolant temperature sensor
Automatic choke
Automatic choke pull-down solenoid
Carburettor anti-dieselling valve
Inlet manifold heater
Carburettor stepper motor
Fuel injection harness
Dipstick
17Where applicable, detach the power
steering pump from the cylinder block and
move it to one side.
18Unscrew and remove the top engine-to-
gearbox bolts which are accessible from the
engine compartment. Note the location of the
earth strap on one of the bolts.
19Note the location of the earth strap on the
rear inlet manifold stud, then remove the nut
and disconnect the strap.
20Apply the handbrake (if not already done),
jack up the front of the vehicle and support on
axle stands (see ÒJacking and Vehicle SupportÓ).
21Drain the engine oil into a suitable
container.
22Remove the starter motor.
23Remove the exhaust downpipe.
24Unscrew the nuts or bolts, as applicable,
securing the engine mountings to the
crossmember. Recover the washers.
25Unscrew and remove the remaining
engine-to-gearbox bolts, and remove the bolt
from the engine adapter plate (see
illustration).
26Remove the two securing bolts and
disconnect the engine-to-gearbox brace from
the engine and gearbox.
27Working inside the vehicle, place a
wooden block under the clutch pedal to raise
it fully against its stop which will hold the
automatic adjuster pawl clear of the toothed
quadrant.
28Disconnect the clutch cable from the
clutch release arm, and pass the cable
through the bellhousing. Where applicable,
remove the clip securing the clutch cable to
the right-hand engine mounting bracket. Note
the cable routing for use when refitting.
29Lower the vehicle to the ground, and
support the gearbox with a trolley jack, using
a block of wood between the jack and the
gearbox to spread the load.
30Make a final check to ensure that all
relevant wires, pipes and hoses have been
disconnected to facilitate engine removal.
9Engine - removal leaving
manual gearbox in vehicle
8Method of engine removal
7Major operations requiring
engine removal
6Major operations possible with
the engine in the vehicle
2A¥8SOHC engines
9.25 Engine adapter plate bolt (A) and
engine-to-gearbox brace (B)
Warning: Vehicles equipped
with air conditioning:
Components of the air
conditioning system may
obstruct work being undertaken on the
engine, and it is not always possible to
unbolt and move them aside sufficiently,
within the limits of their flexible
connecting pipes. In such a case, the
system should be discharged by a Ford
dealer or air conditioning specialist. The
refrigerant is harmless under normal
conditions, but in the presence of a naked
flame (or a lighted cigarette) it forms a
highly toxic gas. Liquid refrigerant spilled
on the skin will cause frostbite. If
refrigerant enters the eyes, rinse them
with a diluted solution of boric acid and
seek medical advice immediately.

31Attach a suitable hoist to the engine lifting
brackets located at the front and rear of the
cylinder head, and carefully take the weight of
the engine. The engine should be supported
horizontally, ie do not allow it to tilt front to rear.
32Raise the engine until the engine
mountings are clear of the crossmember then
pull the engine forwards to disconnect it from
the gearbox. Ensure that the gearbox is
adequately supported, and take care not to
strain the gearbox input shaft. It may be
necessary to rock the engine a little to release
it from the gearbox.
33Once clear of the gearbox, lift the engine
from the vehicle, taking care not to damage
the radiator fins.
Note: Refer to the warning in Section 8 before
proceeding. A suitable hoist and lifting tackle
will be required for this operation.
1Proceed as described in Section 9,
paragraphs 1 to 17 inclusive, but additionally,
where applicable, disconnect the kickdown
cable from the carburettor/inlet manifold.
2Unscrew and remove the top engine-to-
transmission bolts which are accessible from
the engine compartment. Note the location of
the earth strap, vacuum pipe bracket, and
transmission dipstick tube bracket.
3Proceed as described in Section 9,
paragraphs 20 to 24 inclusive.
4Working through the starter motor aperture,
unscrew the four torque converter-to-
driveplate nuts. It will be necessary to turn the
crankshaft, using a suitable spanner on the
crankshaft pulley bolt, in order to gain access
to each nut in turn through the aperture.
5Unscrew and remove the remaining engine-
to-transmission bolts, and remove the bolt
from the engine adapter plate. Where
applicable pull the blanking plug from the
adapter plate.
6Remove the two securing bolts and
disconnect the engine-to-transmission brace
from the engine and transmission.
7Lower the vehicle to the ground, and
support the transmission with a trolley jack,
using a block of wood between the jack and
the transmission to spread the load.
8Proceed as described in Section 9,
paragraphs 30 and 31.
9Raise the engine until the engine mountings
are clear of the crossmember, then pull the
engine forwards to disconnect it from the
transmission. Ensure that the torque converter
is held firmly in place in the transmission
housing, otherwise it could fall out resulting in
fluid spillage and possible damage. It may be
necessary to rock the engine a little to release
it from the transmission.
10Once clear of the transmission lift the
engine from the vehicle, taking care not to
damage the radiator fins.Note: Refer to the warning in Section 8 before
proceeding. A suitable hoist and lifting tackle
will be required for this operation.
Removal
1Proceed as described in Section 9,
paragraphs 1 to 17 inclusive.
2Note the location of the earth strap on the
rear inlet manifold stud, then remove the nut
and disconnect the strap.
3Working inside the vehicle, unscrew the
gear lever knob and remove the centre
console. Where a full length console is fitted,
it is only necessary to remove the front tray.
4Detach the outer gaiter from the retaining
frame and withdraw it over the gear lever.
5Unscrew the securing screws on early
models, or release the clips on later models,
and remove the gaiter retaining frame and
inner gaiter.
6Using a suitable Torx key, remove the
screws securing the gear lever to the gearbox
extension housing, and withdraw the gear
lever. Note how the base of the gear lever
locates over the selector shaft.
7Jack up the vehicle and support on axle
stands (see ÒJacking and Vehicle SupportÓ).
Ensure that there is sufficient working room
beneath the vehicle.
8To improve access, disconnect the exhaust
downpipe from the manifold and remove the
exhaust system.
9Remove the propeller shaft.
10Where applicable bend back the locktabs,
then unscrew the two bolts in each case
securing the two anti-roll bar U-clamps to the
vehicle underbody. Lower the anti-roll bar as
far as possible.
11Proceed as described in Section 9,
paragraphs 27 and 28.
12Drain the engine oil into a container.
13Unscrew the nuts or bolts, as applicable,
securing the engine mountings to the
crossmember. Recover the washers.
14Disconnect the wiring from the reversing
lamp switch.
15Remove the retaining circlip, and
withdraw the speedometer cable from the
gearbox extension housing.
16Support the gearbox with a trolley jack,
using a block of wood between the jack and
the gearbox to spread the load.
17Unscrew the four bolts securing the
gearbox crossmember to the vehicle
underbody. Unscrew the central bolt securing
the crossmember to the gearbox and remove
the crossmember. Note the position of the
earth strap, where applicable. Recover the
mounting cup and where applicable the
exhaust mounting bracket and heat shield.
18Make a final check to ensure that all
relevant wires, pipes and hoses have been
disconnected to facilitate removal of the en-
gine/gearbox assembly.19Attach a suitable hoist to the engine lifting
brackets located at the front and rear of the
cylinder head. Arrange the lifting tackle so that
the engine/gearbox assembly will assume a
steep angle of approximately 40¼ to 45¼ as it is
being removed.
20Raise the engine/gearbox so that the
engine mountings are clear of the
crossmember, then ease the assembly
forwards, at the same time lowering the trolley
jack which is supporting the gearbox. Lift the
assembly from the vehicle, taking care not to
damage surrounding components (see
illustration).
21With the engine/gearbox assembly
removed, temporarily reconnect the anti-roll bar
to the underbody if the vehicle is to be moved.
Separation
22To separate the engine from the gearbox,
proceed as follows.
23Remove the starter motor.
24Support the engine and gearbox
horizontally on blocks of wood.
25Unscrew the two securing bolts and
disconnect the engine-to-gearbox brace from
the engine and gearbox.
26Unscrew and remove the engine-to-
gearbox bolts, noting the location of the earth
strap, and remove the bolt from the engine
adapter plate.
27Pull the engine and gearbox apart, taking
care not to strain the gearbox input shaft. It
may be necessary to rock the units slightly to
separate them.
Note: Refer to the warning in Section 8 before
proceeding. A suitable hoist and lifting tackle
will be required for this operation. Any
suspected faults in the automatic transmission
should be referred to a Ford dealer or
automatic transmission specialist before
removal of the unit, as the specialist fault
diagnosis equipment is designed to operate
with the transmission in the vehicle.
Removal
1Proceed as described in Section 9,
paragraphs 1 to 17 inclusive, but additionally,
12Engine/automatic
transmission assembly -
removal and separation
11Engine/manual gearbox
assembly - removal and
separation
10Engine - removal leaving
automatic transmission in
vehicle
SOHC engines 2A¥9
2A
11.20 Lifting the engine/gearbox assembly
from the vehicle

4Check that the engine adapter plate is
correctly positioned on its locating dowels.
5Refit the propeller shaft.
6Refit the exhaust system.
7Reconnect the clutch cable to the release
arm, ensuring that it is routed as noted during
removal.
8Fill the engine with the correct grade and
quantity of oil.
9Fill the cooling system.
10Check and if necessary top-up the
gearbox oil level.
11Check and if necessary adjust the tension
of the alternator and where applicable the
power steering pump drivebelt(s).
12Adjust the throttle cable.
1Reverse the removal procedure described
in Section 12, noting the following points.
2Check that the engine adapter plate is
correctly positioned on its locating dowels.
3As the torque converter is only loosely
engaged in the transmission, care must be
taken to prevent the torque converter from
falling out forwards. When the torque
converter hub is fully engaged with the fluid
pump drivegear in the transmission, distance
ÒAÓ in illustration 2.24 of Chapter 7B must be
as shown. Incorrect installation of the torque
converter will result in damage to the
transmission.
4As the engine and transmission are
reconnected, guide the torque converter studs
through the holes in the driveplate, noting that
on the C3 type transmission, the torque
converter fluid drain plug must line up with the
opening in the driveplate (see illustration 2.25
in Chapter 7B). When the engine is positioned
flush with the engine adapter plate and the
transmission housing, check that the torque
converter is free to move axially a small
amount before refitting and tightening the
engine-to-transmission bolts.
5Do not tighten the torque converter-to-
driveplate nuts until the lower engine-to-
transmission bolts have been fitted and
tightened.
6Reconnect and adjust the selector rod.
7Refit the propeller shaft.8Refit the exhaust system.
9Fill the engine with the correct grade and
quantity of oil.
10Fill the cooling system.
11Check and if necessary top-up the
transmission fluid level.
12Check and if necessary adjust the tension
of the alternator and where applicable the
power steering pump drivebelt(s).
13Adjust the throttle cable.
14If applicable, adjust the kickdown cable.
1The engine mountings incorporate
hydraulic dampers and must be renewed if
excessive engine movement is evident.
2Working in the engine compartment,
unscrew the central nuts securing the engine
mounting brackets to the tops of the
mountings. Recover the washers where
applicable.
3Remove the two bolts or the central nut and
washer (as applicable) in each case securing
the mountings to the crossmember.
4Raise the engine using a hoist and lifting
tackle attached to the engine lifting brackets on
the cylinder head, or a jack with an interposed
block of wood under the sump, until the
mountings can be withdrawn (see illustration).
5Fit the new mountings, then lower the
engine onto them.
6Fit the bolts or the nuts and washers (as
applicable) securing the mountings to the
crossmember, and tighten them.
7Fit and tighten the central nuts, and washers
if applicable, securing the engine mounting
brackets to the tops of the mountings.
Dismantling
1It is best to mount the engine on a
dismantling stand but if this is not available,
stand the engine on a strong bench at a
comfortable working height. Failing this, it will
have to be stripped down on the floor.
2Cleanliness is most important, and if theengine is dirty, it should be cleaned with
paraffin while keeping it in an upright position.
3Avoid working with the engine directly on a
concrete floor, as grit presents a real source
of trouble.
4As parts are removed, clean them in a
paraffin bath. However, do not immerse parts
with internal oilways in paraffin as it is difficult
to remove, usually requiring a high pressure
hose. Clean oilways with nylon pipe cleaners.
5It is advisable to have suitable containers
available to hold small items according to
their use, as this will help when reassembling
the engine and also prevent possible losses.
6Always obtain a complete set of new
gaskets for use during engine reassembly, but
retain the old gaskets with a view to using
them as a pattern to make a replacement if a
new one is not available.
7Where possible, refit securing nuts, bolts and
washers to their locations after removing the
relevant components. This will help to protect
the threads and will also prevent losses.
8Retain unserviceable components in order
to compare them with the new parts supplied.
9Suitable splined sockets will be required for
removal of the oil pump bolts, the timing belt
tensioner bolts on early models (up to mid-
1985), and the cylinder head bolts on early
models (up to early 1984) and a size T55 Torx
socket will be required to remove the cylinder
head bolts on later models (from early 1984).
10Before dismantling the main engine
components the following externally mounted
ancillary components can be removed, with
reference to the relevant Chapters of this
Manual and the relevant Sections of this
Chapter, where applicable:
Inlet manifold (and carburettor, where
applicable
Exhaust manifold
Fuel pump and operating pushrod (where
applicable)
Alternator
Distributor, HT leads and spark plug
Coolant pump, thermostat and housing
Temperature gauge sender and oil pressure
warning lamp switch
Oil filter
Dipstick
Engine mounting brackets (see illustration)
Crankcase ventilation valve and oil separator
Clutch
Alternator mounting bracket (see illustration)
18Engine dismantling,
examination, renovation and
reassembly - general information
17Engine mountings - renewal
16Engine/automatic
transmission assembly -
reconnection and refitting
SOHC engines 2A¥11
2A
18.10b Removing the alternator mounting
bracket18.10a Removing the right-hand engine
mounting bracket
17.4 Withdrawing an engine mounting

Examination and renovation
11With the engine completely stripped,
clean all the components and examine them
for wear. Each part should be checked, and
where necessary renewed or renovated as
described in the relevant Sections. Renew
main and big end shell bearings as a matter of
course, unless it is known that they have had
little wear and are in perfect condition.
12If in doubt as to whether to renew a
component which is still just serviceable,
consider the time and effort which will be
incurred should it fail at an early date.
Obviously the age and expected life of the
vehicle must influence the standards applied.
13Gaskets, oil seals and O-rings must all be
renewed as a matter of routine. Flywheel and
Torx type cylinder head bolts must be
renewed because of the high stresses to
which they are subjected.
14Take the opportunity to renew the engine
core plugs while they are easily accessible.
Knock out the old plugs with a hammer and
chisel or punch. Clean the plug seats, smear
the new plugs with sealant and tap them
squarely into position.
Reassembly
15To ensure maximum life with minimum
trouble from a rebuilt engine, not only must
everything be correctly assembled, but it must
also be spotlessly clean. All oilways must be
clear, and locking washers and spring
washers must be fitted where indicated. Oil all
bearings and other working surfaces
thoroughly with clean engine oil during
assembly.
16Before assembly begins, renew any bolts
or studs with damaged threads.
17Gather together a torque wrench, oil can,
clean rag, and a set of engine gaskets and oil
seals, together with a new oil filter.
18If they have been removed, new Torx type
cylinder head bolts and new flywheel bolts will
be required.
19After reassembling the main engine
components, refit the ancillary components
listed, referring to the appropriate Chapters
where necessary. Delicate items such as the
alternator and distributor may be left until after
the engine has been refitted if preferred.20If the crankcase ventilation oil separator
was removed, apply a liquid sealing agent to
its tube before pressing it into the cylinder
block.
Note: Refer to the warning in Section 8 before
proceeding. On models from mid-1985
(without a timing belt tensioner spring) the belt
tension should be checked using Ford special
tool No 21-113 after refitting. On models up to
mid-1985 (with a tensioner spring), a suitable
splined socket will be required for the
tensioner spring bolt. A suitable puller may be
required to remove the sprockets.
Removal
1If the engine is in the vehicle, carry out the
following operations:
a)Disconnect the battery negative lead
b)Remove the thermo-viscous cooling fan
c)Remove the coolant
pump/alternator/power-steering pump
drivebelt(s)
d)For improved access, remove the radiator
and disconnect the radiator top hose from
the thermostat housing
2Unscrew the three securing bolts and
washers and withdraw the timing cover. Note
the position of the fourth bolt above the
crankshaft pulley which can be left in place.
3Using a socket on the crankshaft pulley
bolt, turn the engine clockwise until the TDC
(top dead centre) mark on the crankshaft
pulley is aligned with the pointer on the
crankshaft front oil seal housing (see
illustration 16.2a of Chapter 5) and the pointer
on the camshaft sprocket backplate is aligned
with the indentation on the cylinder head (see
illustration).
4On models up to mid-1985 (with a tensioner
spring), loosen the timing belt tensioner spring
bolt using the special splined socket (see
illustration), then loosen the tensioner pivot
bolt. If necessary for improved access,
remove the thermostat housing. Press the
tensioner against the spring tension and
tighten the pivot bolt to retain the tensioner in
the released position.5On models from mid-1985 (without a
tensioner spring), loosen the timing belt
tensioner bolts (see illustration)and move
the tensioner away from the belt. If necessary
to improve access, remove the thermostat
housing.
6Mark the running direction of the belt if it is
to be re-used, then slip it off the camshaft
sprocket.
7Slacken the crankshaft pulley bolt. Prevent
the crankshaft from turning by engaging top
gear (manual gearbox only) and having an
assistant apply the brake pedal hard, or by
removing the starter motor and jamming the
ring gear teeth with a lever. Alternatively, if the
pulley has peripheral bolt holes, screw in a
couple of bolts and use a lever between them
to jam it. Do not allow the crankshaft to turn
very far, or piston/valve contact may occur.
8Remove the bolt and washer and withdraw
the pulley. If the pulley will not come off easily,
refit the bolt part way and use a puller (see
illustration). A puller will almost certainly be
required on fuel-injection models.
9Remove the guide washer from in front of
the crankshaft sprocket, then remove the
timing belt (see illustration). Do not kink it or
get oil on it if it is to be re-used.
10If desired, the sprocket can be removed as
follows, otherwise proceed to paragraph 21.
11Remove the crankshaft sprocket, refitting
the bolt part way and using a puller if
necessary (see illustration).
12Unscrew the auxiliary shaft sprocket bolt
while holding the sprocket stationary with a
screwdriver inserted through one of the holes.
19Timing belt and sprockets -
removal and refitting
2A¥12SOHC engines
19.3 TDC pointer on camshaft sprocket
backplate aligned with indentation on
cylinder head19.5 Timing belt tensioner bolts (arrowed) -
models from mid-1985
19.8 Using a puller to remove a pressed
type crankshaft pulley
19.4 Loosening the timing belt tensioner
spring bolt using a splined socket - models
up to mid-1985

anti-clockwise (No 1 cylinder at 60¼ BTDC)
(see illustration).
29The belt tension should now be checked
by applying Ford tension gauge, tool No 21-
113 to the longest belt run. Desired gauge
readings are:
Used belt - 4 to 5
New belt - 10 to 11
If the tension gauge is not available, a rough
guide is that the belt tension is correct when
the belt can be twisted 90¼ in the middle of the
longest run with the fingers, using moderate
pressure (see illustration). In this case, the
vehicle should be taken to a Ford dealer so
that the belt tension can be checked using the
special gauge at the earliest opportunity.
30If adjustment of belt tension is necessary,
turn the crankshaft clockwise to bring No 1
cylinder to TDC, then slacken the tensionerbolts and move the tensioner to increase or
decrease the belt tension. Tighten the
tensioner bolts to the specified torque.
31Turn the crankshaft 90¼ clockwise past
TDC, then anti-clockwise back to the 60¼
BTDC position (No 1 cylinder at 60¼ BTDC).
Check the belt tension again.
32Repeat the procedure given in paragraphs
30 and 31 until the belt tension is correct.
33Tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt to the
specified torque, preventing the crankshaft
from turning as described in paragraph 7 (see
illustration).
34Refit the timing cover and tighten its bolts.
35If the engine is in the vehicle, reverse the
operations described in paragraph 1.
36When the engine is next started, check
the ignition timing is correct.Note: Refer to the warning in Section 8 and
the note at the beginning of Section 21 before
proceeding.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Drain the cooling system.
3Disconnect the coolant hose from the
thermostat housing.
4Disconnect the wiring from the temperature
gauge sender.
5Disconnect the HT leads from the spark
plugs and from the clips on the camshaft
cover and remove the spark plugs.
6On carburettor models, remove the air
cleaner.
7The cylinder head can be removed either
with or without the manifolds. If desired, the
inlet manifold can be unbolted and moved to
one side, leaving the wires, hoses, pipes and
cables connected, but care must be taken not
to strain any of the wires, hoses, pipes or
cables.
8Unscrew the three securing nuts and
disconnect the exhaust downpipe from the
manifold flange. Recover the gasket.
9Disconnect the coolant hose from the clip
on the exhaust manifold hot air shroud, and if
desired, remove the exhaust manifold.
10If the inlet manifold is to be removed with
the cylinder head, disconnect all relevant
20Cylinder head - removal and
refitting (engine in vehicle)
2A¥14SOHC engines
19.33 Holding a pressed type crankshaft
pulley with two bolts and a lever while
tightening the bolt19.29 Twisting the timing belt to assess its
tension
19.28 Timing belt tension checking sequence - models from mid-1985
A No 1 cylinder at TDCB No 1 cylinder at 60¡BTDC for
checkingC Return No 1 cylinder to TDC for
adjustment

18Tighten the bolts in the correct sequence
(see illustration)noting the two stages given
in the Specifications. Tighten to the first stage
in a clockwise sequence starting at point ÒAÓ,
then tighten to the second stage in a
clockwise sequence starting at point ÒBÓ.
Tighten to the third stage after the engine has
been running for twenty minutes.
19If the engine is in the vehicle proceed as
follows.
20Carefully lift the crossmember with the
jack, then refit the securing bolts and tighten
to the specified torque.
21Withdraw the jack, then lower the engine
and remove the lifting tackle.
22Where applicable, refit the brake lines to
the crossmember.
23Ensure that the front wheels are pointing
straight ahead and that the steering wheel is
centred, then reconnect the intermediate shaft
to the steering column. Secure the clamp
plate with the bolt.
24Refit the engine mounting bolts andtighten to the specified torque.
25Refit the starter motor.
26Lower the vehicle to the ground.
27Ensure that the sump drain plug is fitted,
then fill the engine with the correct quantity
and grade of oil. If necessary, renew the oil
filter before filling the engine with oil.
28Reconnect the battery negative lead.
29Start the engine and check for leaks
around the sump, and where applicable the oil
filter. When the engine is started, there may
be a delay in the extinguishing of the oil
pressure warning lamp while the system
pressurises.
30Run the engine for twenty minutes then
stop the engine and tighten the sump bolts to
the third stage given in the Specifications,
starting at the point ÒAÓ shown and working
clockwise.
31Check the oil level.
32Dispose of any old engine oil safely. Do
not pour it down a drain - this is illegal and
causes pollution.
Removal
1Remove the sump.
2Unscrew the bolt securing the pick-up tube
and strainer to the cylinder block (see
illustration).
3Using a suitable splined socket, unscrew
the two securing bolts and withdraw the oil
pump and strainer (see illustration).
4If desired, the hexagon-shaped driveshaft
can be withdrawn, but note which way roundit is fitted (see illustration). The driveshaft
engages with the lower end of the distributor
driveshaft.
5Thoroughly clean the mating faces of the oil
pump and cylinder block.
Refitting
6Commence refitting by inserting the oil
pump driveshaft into the cylinder block in its
previously noted position.
7Prime the pump by injecting oil into it and
turning it by hand.
8Fit the pump, insert the securing bolts, and
tighten them to the specified torque.
9Fit the pick-up tube securing bolt and
tighten it.
10Refit the sump.
Note: A new pressure relief valve plug and
pick-up tube gasket will be required for
reassembly.
Dismantling
1If oil pump wear is suspected, check the
cost and availability of new parts and the cost
of a new pump. Examine the pump as
described in this Section and then decide
whether renewal or repair is the best course of
action.
2Unbolt the pick-up tube and strainer.
Recover the gasket.
3Unscrew the three securing bolts and
remove the oil pump cover (see illustration).
31Oil pump - dismantling,
inspection and reassembly
30Oil pump - removal and
refitting
SOHC engines 2A¥21
2A
30.2 Unscrewing the oil pick-up tube
securing bolt
30.4 Withdrawing the oil pump driveshaft30.3 Unscrewing an oil pump securing bolt
29.18 Sump bolt tightening sequence -
refer to text29.16 Locate the sump gasket end tabs
beneath the rubber sealing strips
31.3 Exploded view of the oil pump
A Body
B Outer rotor
C Inner rotor
D Cover
E Strainer
F Pick-up tube
G Gasket
H Pressure relief valve