belt FORD SIERRA 1992 2.G DOHC Engine Workshop Manual

Dismantling
1Refer to Chapter 2, PartA, Section 18,
paragraphs 1 to 8 inclusive.
2A suitable selection of splined and Torx
sockets will be required to remove many of
the bolts when dismantling the engine.
3Before dismantling the main engine
components, the following externally-
mounted ancillary components can be
removed, with reference to the relevant
Chapters of this Manual and the relevant
Sections of this Chapter, where applicable.
Inlet manifold (and carburettor, if applicable)
Exhaust manifold
Alternator.
Coolant pump, and thermostat
Alternator/coolant pump drivebelt tensioner
Distributor cap, HT leads and spark plugs
Oil pressure warning lamp switch
Crankshaft speed/position sensor
Oil filter
Dipstick
Engine mounting brackets (if not already done)
Crankcase ventilation pipe and hoses
Clutch
Alternator mounting bracket.
Air conditioning compressor mounting
bracket (where applicable).
Engine lifting brackets.
Examination and renovation
4Refer to Chapter 2, PartA, Section 18, but
note that the connecting rod bolts should be
renewed on reassembly, and when renewing
the cylinder head bolts, the latest type bolts
with hexagonal heads should always be used.
Reassembly
5Proceed as described in Chapter 2, PartA,
Section 18, noting the following:
6If they have been removed, new cylinder
head bolts (both M11 and M8, of the latest
type with hexagonal heads), flywheel bolts,
and connecting rod bolts must be used.
Note: Refer to the warning at the beginning of
Section 5 before proceeding. A suitable puller
will be required to remove the crankshaft pulley.
A new crankshaft pulley bolt, a new timing chain
tensioner plunger assembly, new upper and
lower timing chain cover gaskets, and a new
camshaft cover gasket and reinforcing sleeve
sealing rings, must be used on refitting.
Removal
1If the engine is in the car, carry out the
following operations:
a)Disconnect the battery negative lead.
b)To improve access, remove the radiator. It
will be difficult to remove the crankshaft
pulley with the radiator in place.c)On carburettor models, remove the air
cleaner.
d)On fuel injection models, remove the air
inlet hose, plenum chamber, and air
cleaner lid as an assembly.
e)Disconnect the breather hose from the
camshaft cover.
f)Remove the distributor cap and HT leads,
and the rotor arm and housing.
2Proceed as described in paragraphs 2 to 11
inclusive of Section 18 (see illustration).
3Remove the alternator drivebelt.
4Slacken the crankshaft pulley bolt. Prevent
the crankshaft from turning by engaging top
gear (manual gearbox only) and having an
assistant press the brake pedal hard, or by
removing the starter motor and jamming the
ring gear teeth with a lever.
5Unscrew the bolt part-way, and use a puller
to remove the crankshaft pulley. The legs ofthe puller must be suitably shaped to enable
them to rest on the metal surfaces of the
pulley. Do not use a puller on the rubber
surface of the pulley (see illustrations).
15Timing chain and sprockets -
removal and refitting
14Engine dismantling,
examination, renovation and
reassembly - general information
2B•8DOHC engine
15.2 Timing chain, oil pump drive chain and associated components
1 Upper timing chain guide
2 Exhaust camshaft sprocket
3 Timing chain
4 Lower timing chain guide
5 Crankshaft sprocket (double)
6 Crankshaft
7 Oil pump chain tensioner
8 Oil pump drive chain
9 Oil pump10 Oil pressure relief valve
11 Oil passage to timing chain tensioner
plunger
12 Plug
13 Timing chain tensioner plunger
14 Timing chain tensioner sprocket
15 Timing chain tensioner arm
16 Inlet camshaft sprocket
17 Copper chain links
15.5a Remove the crankshaft pulley using
a puller (viewed from under vehicle)

6Loosen the alternator lower mounting
through-bolt, then remove the alternator
upper mounting bolt, and swing the alternator
away from the engine.
7Unscrew the central securing bolt, and
withdraw the drivebelt tensioner assembly.
8Unscrew the eleven securing bolts, and
remove the lower timing chain cover. Recover
the rubber gasket.
9Using a suitable Torx socket, unscrew the
securing screw, and carefully withdraw the oil
pump chain tensioner (see illustration).
10Unscrew the Torx type securing bolt, and
withdraw the oil pump sprocket, complete
with the oil pump drive chain.
11Unscrew the two lower timing chain guide
securing bolts, noting their locations, and
withdraw the timing chain guide through the
top of the timing case (see illustration).
12Remove the Woodruff key from the end of
the crankshaft, prising it free with a
screwdriver if necessary, then slide the double
chain sprocket from the end of the crankshaft,
and lift the chain from the sprocket (see
illustration).
13Withdraw the timing chain through the top
of the timing case and, where applicable,
remove the cable-tie from the chain (see
illustration).
Refitting
14Commence refitting as follows. Note that
coppered links are provided in the timing
chain to assist with refitting, but these can be
difficult to see on a chain which has already
been in service. If possible, position thecoppered links as described during the
following procedure. If the coppered links are
not visible, the chain should still be refitted as
described, but ignore the references to the
coppered links.
15Make sure that the slot for the Woodruff
key in the end of the crankshaft is pointing
vertically downwards. If necessary,
temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley bolt in
order to turn the crankshaft to the required
position.
16Lower the timing chain into the timing
case from above, with the single coppered
link at the bottom. If desired, use a cable-tie
to prevent the chain from dropping into the
timing case, as during removal.
17Locate the double chain sprocket loosely
over the end of the crankshaft (larger sprocket
nearest the crankcase), with the timing mark
pointing vertically down.
18Fit the chain over the inner, larger
sprocket, aligning the coppered link in the
chain with the timing mark on the sprocket
(see illustration).
19Coat the threads of the lower timing chain
guide lower securing bolt with a suitable
thread-locking compound.
20Introduce the lower timing chain guide
through the top of the timing case,
manipulating the chain around the guide as
necessary, then fit the chain guide lower
securing bolt and tighten it finger-tight.
21Push the double chain sprocket onto the
crankshaft, engaging the notch in the
sprocket with the groove in the end of the
crankshaft.22Proceed as shown in paragraphs 34 to 42
of Section 18 but when fitting the chain over
the camshaft sprockets, align the timing mark
on each sprocket between the two
corresponding coppered links in the chain.
23Coat the threads of the lower timing chain
guide upper securing bolt with a suitable
thread-locking compound, then fit the bolt
and tighten it finger-tight.
24Proceed as shown in paragraphs 43 to 46
of Section 18.
25Tighten the two chain guide securing
bolts to the specified torque.
26Proceed as shown in paragraphs 47 to 55
of Section 18.
27Fit the oil pump drive chain around the
outer crankshaft sprocket and the oil pump
sprocket, then refit the oil pump sprocket, and
tighten the securing bolt to the specified
torque. If necessary, a screwdriver can be
inserted through one of the holes in the
sprocket to prevent it from turning as the
securing bolt is tightened.
28Refit the oil pump drive chain tensioner,
and tighten the securing bolt to the specified
torque.
29Refit the Woodruff key to the end of the
crankshaft.
30Inspect the oil seal in the lower timing
chain cover. If the oil seal is in good condition,
the cover can be refitted as follows, but if the
seal is damaged, or has been leaking, a new
seal should be fitted to the cover. If
necessary, carefully prise the old oil seal from
the cover using a screwdriver. The new seal
DOHC engine 2B•9
2B
15.11 Withdrawing the lower timing chain
guide
15.18 Coppered link in timing chain aligned
with crankshaft sprocket timing mark
(arrowed)15.13 Withdrawing the timing chain
through the top of the timing case
15.9 Oil pump chain tensioner securing
screw (arrowed)15.5b Position the legs of the puller on the
metal surfaces of the pulley (A), not the
rubber surface (B)
15.12 Sliding the double chain sprocket
from the end of the crankshaft

should be fitted dry. Drive in the new seal
using a suitable metal tube, making sure that
the seal lip faces into the engine, and taking
care not to damage the timing chain cover
(see illustration).
31Fit the lower timing chain cover using a
new rubber gasket (see illustration).
32Loosely refit the timing chain cover
securing bolts.
33Refit the crankshaft pulley to the end of the
crankshaft, and draw the pulley onto the
crankshaft using the original securing bolt, at the
same time centring the lower timing chain cover.
34With the lower timing chain cover
centralised, and the pulley fully home on the
crankshaft, remove the old securing bolt, then
fit a new bolt.
35Tighten the new crankshaft pulley bolt to
the specified torque, in the two stages given
in the Specifications at the beginning of this
Chapter. Prevent the crankshaft from turning
as during removal.
36Tighten the lower timing chain cover
securing bolts.
37Refit the drivebelt tensioner assembly,
ensuring that the lug on the rear of the
tensioner bracket engages with the
corresponding hole in the cylinder block, and
tighten the securing bolt.
38Swing the alternator into position to align
the upper mounting bolt hole with the
corresponding hole in the drivebelt tensioner
assembly, then refit the upper mounting bolt,
and tighten the upper bolt and the lower
through-bolt.
39Refit the alternator drivebelt.
40If the engine is in the vehicle, reverse the
operations described in paragraph 1.
41If applicable, refill the cooling system.
1Examine alI the teeth on the camshaft and
crankshaft sprockets. If the teeth are “hooked”
in appearance, renew the sprockets.
2Examine the chain tensioner plastic
sprocket for wear. If excessive wear is
evident, the complete tensioner assembly
must be renewed, as the sprocket cannot be
renewed independently. Note that the
tensioner plunger assembly must be renewed
whenever the timing chain is removed.3Examine the timing chain for wear. If the
chain has been in operation for a considerable
time, or if when held horizontally (rollers
vertical) it takes on a deeply-bowed
appearance, renew it.
Note: Refer to the warning at the beginning of
Section 5 and the note at the beginning of the
following Section before proceeding. The
cylinder head must not be removed when the
engine is warm.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2On carburettor models, remove the air
cleaner.
3On fuel injection models, remove the air
inlet hose, plenum chamber, and air cleaner
lid as an assembly.
4Drain the cooling system.
5Disconnect the heater coolant hose from
the inlet manifold (see illustration).
6Disconnect the breather hose from the
camshaft cover, and unbolt the hose bracket
from the left-hand side of the cylinder head
(see illustration).
7Unscrew the securing bolt and disconnect
the earth lead from the left-hand rear of the
cylinder head (see illustration).
8Remove the distributor cap and HT leads,
and the rotor arm and housing. If necessary,
mark the HT leads to aid refitting.
9The cylinder head can be removed either
with or without the manifolds and fuel rail,
where applicable (it is easiest to remove thehead complete with the manifolds and fuel
rail). If desired, the inlet manifold and the fuel
rail can be unbolted and moved to one side,
leaving the wires, hoses, pipes and cables
connected, but care must be taken not to
place any strain on them.
10Unscrew the three securing nuts and
disconnect the exhaust downpipe from the
manifold. It may be necessary to jack up the
front of the vehicle to gain access to the nuts
(in which case, apply the handbrake and
support the front of the vehicle securely on
axle stands). Recover the gasket.
11If the inlet manifold and the fuel rail (where
applicable) are to be removed with the
cylinder head, disconnect all relevant wires,
hoses, pipes and cables. Otherwise, unbolt
the manifold and the fuel rail, and move them
to one side, ensuring that they are adequately
supported. If the fuel rail is unbolted, be
prepared for fuel spillage, and take adequate
fire precautions.
12Proceed as shown in paragraphs 2 to 19
of Section 18.
Refitting
13Proceed as shown in paragraphs 20 to 55
of Section 18.
14With the cylinder head refitted, reverse the
procedure described in paragraphs 1 to 11,
noting the following points.
15Use a new gasket when reconnecting the
exhaust downpipe to the manifold.
16Ensure that the HT leads are reconnected
correctly.
17Fill the cooling system.
17Cylinder head - removal and
refitting (engine in vehicle)
16Timing chain, sprockets and
tensioner - examination and
renovation
2B•10DOHC engine
15.30 Fitting a new lower timing chain
cover oil seal
17.5 Disconnecting the heater coolant
hose from the inlet manifold17.7 Disconnect the earth lead (arrowed)
from the cylinder head17.6 Hose bracket bolted to cylinder head
(arrowed)
15.31 Lower timing chain cover rubber
gasket in position. Ensure that lug on
gasket engages with notch in cover
(arrowed)