wheel FORD SIERRA 1992 2.G DOHC Engine Workshop Manual

General
Engine type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Four-cylinder, in-line, double overhead camshaft
Engine code:
Carburettor engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . N8A
Fuel injection engine without catalyst . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . N9A
Fuel injection engine with catalyst . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . N9C
Bore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.00 mm
Stroke . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.00 mm
Cubic capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1998 cc
Compression ratio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.3 : 1
Compression pressure at starter motor speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 to 13 bars
Maximum continuous engine speed:
N8A engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6050 rpm
All engines except N8A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5950 rpm
Maximum engine power (DIN):
N8A engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 kW at 5600 rpm
N9A engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92 kW at 5500 rpm
N9C engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 kW at 5500 rpm
Maximum engine torque:
N8A engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174 Nm at 3000 rpm
N9A engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174 Nm at 2500 rpm
N9C engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171 Nm at 2500 rpm
Cylinder bore diameter
Standard class 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.000 to 86.010 mm
Standard class 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.010 to 86.020 mm
Oversize 0.15 class A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.150 to 86.160 mm
Oversize 0.15 class B . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.160 to 86.170 mm
Oversize 0.5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.500 to 86.510 mm
Chapter 2 Part B:
DOHC engine
Camshafts and cam followers - removal, inspection and refitting . . .21
Crankcase ventilation system - inspection and maintenance . . . . . . .2
Crankshaft and bearings - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . .31
Crankshaft and main bearings - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . .30
Crankshaft front oil seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23
Crankshaft rear oil seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
Cylinder head - dismantling and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19
Cylinder head - inspection and renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20
Cylinder head - removal and refitting (engine in vehicle) . . . . . . . . . .17
Cylinder head - removal and refitting (engine removed) . . . . . . . . . . .18
Engine/automatic transmission assembly - removal and separation . .8
Engine/automatic transmission assembly - reconnection and
refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Engine dismantling, examination, renovation and reassembly - general
information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
Engine/manual gearbox assembly - removal and separation . . . . . . .7
Engine/manual gearbox assembly - reconnection and refitting . . . . .11Engine - refitting (manual gearbox in vehicle) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Engine - refitting (automatic transmission in vehicle) . . . . . . . . . . . . .10
Engine - removal leaving manual gearbox in vehicle . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Engine - removal leaving automatic transmission in vehicle . . . . . . . .6
Engine mountings - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Flywheel/driveplate - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . .22
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1
Initial start-up after overhaul or major repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32
Major operations possible with the engine in the vehicle . . . . . . . . . . .3
Major operations requiring engine removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
Oil pump drive chain and sprockets - examination and renovation . .28
Oil pump - dismantling, inspection and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . .27
Oil pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26
Pistons and connecting rods - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .29
Sump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25
Timing chain and sprockets - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15
Timing chain, sprockets and tensioner - examination and renovation .16
2B•1
Specifications Contents
2B
Unless otherwise stated, procedures are as described for the SOHC engines in Part A of this Chapter.
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert
DIY or professional
Degrees of difficulty

Torque wrench settingsNmlbf ft
Main bearing cap bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .90 to 10466 to 77
Connecting rod (big-end bearing cap) bolts:
Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 to 84 to 6
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15 to 1711 to 13
Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Angle-tighten a further 85º
Crankshaft pulley bolt:
Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45 to 5833 to 43
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Angle-tighten a further 80º
Camshaft sprocket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55 to 6341 to 46
Flywheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .82 to 9261 to 68
Oil pump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 to 127 to 9
Oil pump sprocket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16 to 1912 to 14
Oil pump chain tensioner bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 to 137 to 10
Sump bolts and nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 to 106 to 7
Sump studs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 to 84 to 6
Sump drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21 to 2815 to 21
Sump front mounting plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23 to 2817 to 21
Oil baffle nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17 to 2113 to 15
Oil pick-up pipe-to-cylinder block bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 to 137 to 10
Oil pressure warning lamp switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18 to 2213 to 16
Cylinder head bolts:
M11 bolts:
Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4030
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5541
Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Angle-tighten a further 90º
Stage 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Angle-tighten a further 90º
M8 bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36 to 3927 to 29
Camshaft cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 to 84 to 6
Camshaft bearing cap nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22 to 2616 to 19
Lower timing chain guide upper bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 to 137 to 10
Lower timing chain guide lower bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 to 2818 to 21
Upper and lower timing chain cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 to 105 to 7
Crankshaft rear oil seal housing bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 to 116 to 8
Engine-to-gearbox/transmission bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29 to 4121 to 30
The 2.0 litre DOHC (Double OverHead
Camshaft) engine was introduced in August
1989 to replace the 2.0 litre SOHC engine
used previously in the Sierra range. The
engine is of four-cylinder, in-line type.
The crankshaft incorporates five main
bearings. Thrustwashers are fitted to the
centre main bearing in order to control
crankshaft endfloat.
The camshafts are driven by a chain from
the crankshaft, and operate the angled valves
via hydraulic cam followers. One camshaft
operates the inlet valves, and the other
operates the exhaust valves. The operation of
the cam followers is explained in Chapter 2,
Part C, but note that no rollers are fitted and
the base of each cam follower is in direct
contact with the cam profile.
The distributor is driven directly from the
front of the inlet camshaft, and the oil pump is
driven by a chain from the crankshaft. An
electric fuel pump is mounted in the fuel tank.Lubrication is by means of a bi-rotor pump
which draws oil through a strainer located
inside the sump, and forces it through a full-
flow filter into the engine oil galleries, from
where it is distributed to the crankshaft and
camshafts. The big-end bearings are supplied
with oil via internal drillings in the crankshaft.
The undersides of the pistons are supplied
with oil from drillings in the connecting rods.
The hydraulic cam followers are supplied with
oil from passages in the cylinder head. The
camshafts are lubricated by oil from spray
tubes mounted above the camshaft bearing
caps.
A closed crankcase ventilation system is
employed, whereby piston blow-by gases are
drawn from the crankcase, through a breather
pipe into the inlet manifold, where they are
burnt with fresh air/fuel mixture.
Refer to Chapter 1, Section 35.The following operations can be carried out
without removing the engine from the vehicle:
a)Removal of the camshafts.
b)Removal and servicing of the cylinder head
c)Removal of the timing chain and
sprockets.
d)Removal of the oil pump.
e)Removal of the sump.
f)Removal of the pistons and connecting
rods.
g)Removal of the big-end bearings.
h)Removal of the engine mountings
i)Removal of the clutch and flywheel.
j)Removal of the crankshaft front and rear
oil seals.
The following operation can only be carried out
after removing the engine from the vehicle:
a)Removal of the crankshaft and main
bearings.
4Major operations requiring
engine removal
3Major operations possible with
the engine in the vehicle
2Crankcase ventilation system -
inspection and maintenance
1General information
DOHC engine 2B•3
2B

Note:A hoist and lifting tackle will be
required.
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the bonnet.
3On carburettor models, remove the air
cleaner.
4On fuel injection models, remove the air
inlet hose, plenum chamber, and air cleaner
lid as an assembly.
5Disconnect the breather hose from the
camshaft cover, and unscrew the bolt securing
the hose support bracket to the left-hand side
of the cylinder head (see illustration).
6Drain the cooling system.
7To provide additional working space,
remove the radiator.
8Disconnect the coolant hoses from the
coolant pump housing on the left-hand side of
the engine.
9Disconnect the coolant hoses from the
thermostat housing.
10Disconnect the heater coolant hose from
the inlet manifold.
11Where applicable, release the coolant
hose from the bracket under the carburettor
automatic choke housing.
12On carburettor models, disconnect the
vacuum pipe from the engine management
module.
13Disconnect the brake servo vacuum hose
from the inlet manifold.14On fuel injection models, disconnect the
vacuum pipes from the MAP sensor (located
at the rear right-hand side of the engine
compartment) and, where applicable, from the
air conditioning system.
15On carburettor models, disconnect the
fuel supply and return hoses at the
carburettor, and plug the ends of the hoses to
minimise petrol spillage. Take adequate fire
precautions.
16On fuel injection models, slowly loosen
the fuel feed union at the fuel rail, to relieve
the pressure in the fuel system before
disconnecting the union. Be prepared for
petrol spillage, and take adequate fire
precautions. Disconnect the fuel feed hose,
and disconnect the fuel return hose from the
fuel pressure regulator. Plug the ends of the
hoses to minimise petrol spillage.
17Disconnect the throttle cable and move it
to one side.
18Disconnect the HT lead from the ignition
coil, and unclip it from the timing chain cover.
19Disconnect the wiring from the following
components as applicable, depending on
model:
Alternator.
Starter motor.
Oil pressure warning lamp switch.
Temperature gauge sender.
Cooling fan switch.
Anti-dieselling valve (carburettor models).
Automatic choke heater (carburettor models).
Engine coolant temperature sensor.
Crankshaft speed/position sensor.
Air charge temperature sensor.
Throttle position sensor.
Fuel temperature sensor.
Fuel injectors.
20On models fitted with power steering,
unbolt the power steering pump from its
mounting bracket and move it clear of the
engine. Note that there is no need to
disconnect the fluid hoses, but make sure that
the pump is adequately supported to avoid
straining them.
21On models fitted with air conditioning,
unbolt the air conditioning compressor from
its mounting bracket, and move it clear of the
engine. Do not disconnect the hoses; make
sure that the compressor is adequately
supported to avoid straining them.
22Unscrew and remove the top engine-to-
gearbox bolts which are accessible from theengine compartment. Note the location of the
bolts, and note the positions of the earth strap
and any wiring clips attached to the bolts (see
illustration).
23Unscrew the securing bolt, and
disconnect the earth lead from the rear left-
hand side of the cylinder head.
24Unscrew the nuts securing the engine
mountings to the engine mounting brackets.
25Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of
the vehicle and support it securely on axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
26Drain the engine oil into a suitable
container.
27Remove the starter motor.
28Remove the exhaust downpipe.
29Ensure that the steering wheel is
positioned in the straight-ahead position, then
remove the clamp bolt from the lower steering
column clamp, swivel the plate to one side, and
disconnect the lower steering column from the
lower flexible coupling (see illustration).
30Working inside the vehicle, place a wooden
block under the clutch pedal to raise it fully
against its stop, so holding the automatic
adjuster pawl clear of the toothed quadrant.
31Disconnect the clutch cable from the
clutch release arm, and pass the cable
through the bellhousing.
32Support the gearbox with a trolley jack,
using a block of wood between the jack and
the gearbox to spread the load.
33Unscrew and remove the remaining
engine-to-gearbox bolts, and remove the bolt
from the engine adapter plate (see
illustration). Recover any shims fitted
between the sump and the gearbox when
removing the lower engine-to-gearbox bolts.
5Engine - removal leaving
manual gearbox in vehicle
2B•4DOHC engine
5.5 Removing the hose support bracket
bolt from the cylinder head5.29 Removing the lower steering column
clamp bolt
5.33 Engine adapter plate bolt (arrowed)
5.22 Earth strap position on top engine-to-
gearbox (arrowed)
Warning: Vehicles equipped
with air conditioning:
Components of the air
conditioning system may
obstruct work being undertaken
on the engine and it is not always possible
to unbolt and move them aside
sufficiently, within the limits of their
flexible connecting pipes. In such a case,
the system should be discharged by a
Ford dealer or air conditioning specialist.
The refrigerant is harmless under normal
conditions but in the presence of a naked
flame (or a lighted cigarette) it forms a
highly toxic gas. Liquid refrigerant spilled
on the skin will cause frostbite. If
refrigerant enters the eyes, rinse them
with a diluted solution of boric acid and
seek medical advice immediately.

the crossmember to the gearbox, and remove
the crossmember. Note the position of the
earth strap, where applicable. Recover the
mounting cup, and where applicable the
exhaust mounting bracket and heat shield.
14Lower the gearbox slightly on the jack,
then remove the securing circlip, and
disconnect the speedometer drive cable from
the gearbox.
15Disconnect the wiring from the reversing
lamp switch. On models with fuel injection,
disconnect the wiring from the vehicle speed
sensor mounted in the side of the gearbox.
16Unscrew the two securing bolts, and
disconnect the gear linkage support bracket
from the gearbox.
17Using a suitable pin punch, drive out the
roll-pin securing the gearchange rod to the
gear linkage.
18Attach a suitable hoist to the engine lifting
brackets located at the front and rear of the
cylinder head, and carefully take the weight of
the engine. Arrange the lifting tackle so that
the engine/gearbox assembly will assume a
steep angle of approximately 40º to 45º as it is
being removed.
19To improve clearance in the engine
compartment when lifting the engine, unbolt
the engine mounting brackets from the
cylinder block, and remove them.
20Ensure that the steering wheel is
positioned in the straight-ahead position, then
remove the clamp bolt from the lower steering
column clamp, swivel the plate to one side,
and disconnect the lower steering column
from the lower flexible coupling.
21Detach the brake lines from the front
suspension crossmember.
22Support the crossmember with a jack (do
not remove the jack from under the gearbox),
then loosen the bolts securing the
crossmember to the underbody. Remove the
crossmember securing bolts, and carefully
lower the crossmember sufficiently to allow
the engine sump to clear the steering rack and
crossmember as the engine/gearbox
assembly is removed.
23Make a final check to ensure that all
relevant wires, pipes and hoses have been
disconnected to facilitate removal of the en-
gine/gearbox assembly.
24Raise the engine/gearbox, at the same
time lowering the trolley jack which is
supporting the gearbox.
25Place a suitable rod across the vehicle
underbody to support the gear linkage
support bracket whilst the gearbox is
removed.
26Tilt the engine/gearbox assembly using
the hoist and the trolley jack, until the
assembly can be lifted from the vehicle. Take
care not to damage surrounding components.
27If the vehicle is to be moved while the
engine/gearbox assembly is removed,
temporarily refit the suspension crossmember
and the anti-roll bar to the underbody, and
reconnect the steering column to the
intermediate shaft.Separation
28To separate the engine from the gearbox,
proceed as follows.
29Remove the starter motor.
30Support the engine and gearbox
horizontally on blocks of wood.
31Unscrew the engine-to-gearbox bolts,
noting the locations of the bolts, and the
positions of the earth strap and any wiring
clips attached to the bolts. Recover any shims
fitted between the sump and the gearbox
when removing the lower engine-to-gearbox
bolts.
32Unscrew the bolt from the engine adapter
plate.
33Pull the engine and gearbox apart, taking
care not to strain the gearbox input shaft. It
may be necessary to rock the units slightly to
separate them.
Note: Refer to the warning at the beginning of
Section 5 before proceeding. A suitable hoist
and lifting tackle will be required for this
operation. Any suspected faults in the
automatic transmission should be referred to a
Ford dealer or automatic transmission
specialist before removal of unit, as the
specialist fault diagnosis equipment is
designed to operate with the transmission in
the vehicle.
Removal
1Proceed as described in paragraphs 1 to 21
of Section 5.
2Unscrew the securing bolt, and disconnect
the earth lead from the rear left-hand side of
the cylinder head.
3Unscrew the nuts securing the engine
mountings to the engine mounting brackets.
4Jack up the vehicle and support it securely
on axle stands. (see “Jacking and Vehicle
Support”).
Ensure that there is enough working room
beneath the vehicle.
5To improve access, disconnect the exhaust
downpipe from the manifold, and remove the
exhaust system.
6Drain the engine oil into a suitable
container.
7On models fitted with a catalytic converter,
release the securing clips and withdraw the
exhaust heat shield from under the vehicle for
access to the propeller shaft.
8Remove the propeller shaft.
9Where applicable, bend back the locktabs,
then unscrew the two bolts in each case
securing the two anti-roll bar U-clamps to the
vehicle underbody. Lower the anti-roll bar as
far as possible.
10Support the transmission with a trolley
jack, using a block of wood between the jack
and the transmission to spread the load.
11Unscrew the four bolts securing thetransmission crossmember to the vehicle
underbody. Unscrew the central bolt securing
the crossmember to the transmission, and
remove the crossmember. Note the position
of the earth strap, where applicable. Recover
the mounting cup, and where applicable, the
exhaust mounting bracket and heat shield.
12Lower the transmission slightly on the
jack.
13Unscrew the unions and disconnect the
fluid cooler pipes from the transmission. Plug
the open ends of the pipes and the
transmission, to prevent dirt ingress and fluid
leakage. Where applicable, detach the fluid
cooler pipe bracket from the engine mounting
bracket, and move it to one side.
14Remove the two clips securing the
selector rod, and detach the selector rod from
the manual selector lever, and from the
selector lever on the transmission.
15Disconnect the wiring from the starter
inhibitor switch, kickdown solenoid, lock-up
clutch, reversing lamp switch, and where
applicable, the 3rd/4th gearchange solenoid.
16Remove the securing screw, and
disconnect the speedometer cable from the
transmission extension housing. Plug the
opening in the transmission to prevent dirt
ingress.
17Proceed as described in paragraphs 18 to
27 of Section 7, substituting transmission for
gearbox, and ignoring paragraph 25.
Separation
18To separate the engine from the
transmission, proceed as follows.
19Remove the starter motor.
20Support the engine and transmission
horizontally on blocks of wood.
21Working through the starter motor
aperture, unscrew the four torque converter-
to-driveplate nuts. It will be necessary to turn
the crankshaft using a suitable spanner on the
crankshaft pulley bolt in order to gain access
to each nut in turn through the aperture.
22Where applicable, remove the bolt
securing the transmission fluid dipstick tube
to the left-hand side of the cylinder block.
23Unscrew the engine-to-transmission
bolts, noting the locations of the bolts, and
the positions of the earth strap and any wiring
clips attached to the bolts. Recover any shims
fitted between the sump and the transmission
when removing the lower engine-to-
transmission bolts.
24Unscrew the bolt from the engine adapter
plate and, where applicable, pull the blanking
plug from the adapter plate.
25Pull the engine and the transmission
apart, ensuring that the torque converter is
held firmly in place in the transmission
housing, otherwise it could fall out, resulting in
fluid spillage and possible damage. It may be
necessary to rock the units slightly to
separate them.
8Engine/automatic
transmission assembly -
removal and separation
2B•6DOHC engine

1Reverse the procedure described in
paragraphs 1 to 40, Section 5, noting the
following points.
2Before attempting to refit the engine, check
that the clutch friction disc is centralised.
3Check that the clutch release arm and
bearing are correctly fitted, and lightly grease
the input shaft splines.
4Check that the engine adapter plate is
correctly positioned on its locating dowels. If
necessary, a cable-tie can be used to
temporarily secure the adapter plate in
position on the cylinder block using one of the
engine-to-gearbox bolt holes.
5If shims were fitted between the sump and
the gearbox, refit them in their original
locations when mating the engine to the
gearbox. If the engine has been overhauled,
where applicable fit the relevant shims as
calculated during engine reassembly.
6Reconnect the clutch cable to the release
arm, ensuring that it is routed as noted during
removal.
7Ensure that the roadwheels and the
steering wheel are in the straight-ahead
position before reconnecting the lower
steering column to the intermediate shaft, and
tighten the clamp bolt to the specified torque.
8Fill the engine with the correct grade and
quantity of oil.
9Check the throttle cable adjustment.
10Fill the cooling system.
11Tighten all fixings to the specified torque,
where applicable.
1Reverse the procedure in paragraphs 1 to
10 of Section 6, noting the following points.
2Check that the engine adapter plate is
correctly positioned on its locating dowels. If
necessary, a cable-tie can be used to
temporarily secure the adapter plate in
position on the cylinder block, using one of
the engine-to-transmission bolt holes.
3As the torque converter is only loosely
engaged in the transmission, care must be
taken to prevent the torque converter from
falling out forwards. When the torque
converter hub is fully engaged with the fluid
pump drivegear in the transmission, distance
“A” in illustration 2.24 of Chapter 7B must be
as specified. Incorrect installation of the
torque converter will result in damage to the
transmission.
4If shims were fitted between the sump and
the transmission, refit them in their original
locations when mating the engine to the
transmission. If the engine has been
overhauled, where applicable fit the relevant
shims as calculated during engine
reassembly.5As the engine is installed, guide the torque
converter studs through the holes in the
driveplate. When the engine is positioned
flush with the engine adapter plate and the
transmission housing, check that the torque
converter is free to move axially a small
amount before refitting and tightening the
engine-to-transmission bolts.
6Do not tighten the torque converter-to-
driveplate nuts until the lower engine-to-
transmission bolts have been fitted and
tightened.
7Ensure that the roadwheels and the
steering wheel are in the straight-ahead
position before reconnecting the lower
steering column to the intermediate shaft.
8Fill the engine with the correct grade and
quantity of oil.
9Check the throttle cable adjustment.
10Fill the cooling system.
11Tighten all fixings to the specified torque,
where applicable.
1Reverse the procedure described in
paragraphs 1 to 33 of Section 7, noting the
following points.
2Before attempting to reconnect the engine
to the gearbox, check that the clutch friction
disc is centralised.
3Check that the clutch release arm and
bearing are correctly fitted, and lightly grease
the input shaft splines.
4Check that the engine adapter plate is
correctly positioned on its locating dowels. If
necessary, a cable-tie can be used to
temporarily secure the adapter plate in
position on the cylinder block, using one of
the engine-to-gearbox bolt holes.
5If shims were fitted between the sump and
the gearbox, refit them in their original
locations when mating the engine to the
gearbox. If the engine has been overhauled,
where applicable fit the relevant shims as
calculated during engine reassembly.
6Ensure that the roadwheels and the
steering wheel are in the straight-ahead
position before reconnecting the lower
steering column to the intermediate shaft.
7Reconnect the clutch cable to the release
arm, ensuring that it is routed as noted during
removal.
8Fill the engine with the correct grade and
quantity of oil.
9Check the throttle cable adjustment.
10Fill the cooling system.
11Check and if necessary top-up the
gearbox oil level.
12Tighten all fixings to the specified torque,
where applicable.1Reverse the procedure described in
paragraphs 1 to 25 of Section 8, noting the
following points.
2Check that the engine adapter plate is
correctly positioned on its locating dowels. If
necessary, a cable-tie can be used to
temporarily secure the adapter plate in
position on the cylinder block, using one of
the engine-to-transmission bolt holes.
3As the torque converter is only loosely
engaged in the transmission, care must be
taken to prevent the torque converter from
falling out forwards. When the torque
converter hub is fully engaged with the fluid
pump drivegear in the transmission, distance
“A” in illustration 2.24 of Chapter 7B must be
as specified. Incorrect installation of the
torque converter will result in damage to the
transmission.
4If shims were fitted between the sump and
the transmission, refit them in their original
locations when mating the engine to the
transmission. If the engine has been
overhauled, where applicable fit the relevant
shims as calculated during engine
reassembly.
5As the engine and transmission are mated
together, guide the torque converter studs
through the holes in the driveplate. When the
engine is positioned flush with the engine
adapter plate and the transmission housing,
check that the torque converter is free to
move axially a small amount before refitting
and tightening the engine-to-transmission
bolts.
6Do not tighten the torque converter-to-
driveplate nuts until the lower engine-to-
transmission bolts have been fitted and
tightened.
7Ensure that the roadwheels and the
steering wheel are in the straight-ahead
position before reconnecting the lower
steering column to the intermediate shaft.
8Reconnect the selector rod and check for
correct adjustment.
9Fill the engine with the correct grade and
quantity of oil.
10Check the throttle cable adjustment.
11Fill the cooling system.
12Check and if necessary top-up the
transmission fluid level.
13Tighten all fixings to the specified torque,
where applicable.
Proceed as described in Chapter 2, Part C,
but note that on certain models it may be
necessary to unbolt the engine mounting
brackets from the cylinder block to allow
sufficient clearance to remove the mountings.
13Engine mountings - renewal
12Engine/automatic
transmission assembly -
reconnection and refitting
11Engine/manual gearbox
assembly - reconnection and
refitting
10Engine - refitting (automatic
transmission in vehicle)
9Engine - refitting (manual
gearbox in vehicle)
DOHC engine 2B•7
2B

Dismantling
1Refer to Chapter 2, PartA, Section 18,
paragraphs 1 to 8 inclusive.
2A suitable selection of splined and Torx
sockets will be required to remove many of
the bolts when dismantling the engine.
3Before dismantling the main engine
components, the following externally-
mounted ancillary components can be
removed, with reference to the relevant
Chapters of this Manual and the relevant
Sections of this Chapter, where applicable.
Inlet manifold (and carburettor, if applicable)
Exhaust manifold
Alternator.
Coolant pump, and thermostat
Alternator/coolant pump drivebelt tensioner
Distributor cap, HT leads and spark plugs
Oil pressure warning lamp switch
Crankshaft speed/position sensor
Oil filter
Dipstick
Engine mounting brackets (if not already done)
Crankcase ventilation pipe and hoses
Clutch
Alternator mounting bracket.
Air conditioning compressor mounting
bracket (where applicable).
Engine lifting brackets.
Examination and renovation
4Refer to Chapter 2, PartA, Section 18, but
note that the connecting rod bolts should be
renewed on reassembly, and when renewing
the cylinder head bolts, the latest type bolts
with hexagonal heads should always be used.
Reassembly
5Proceed as described in Chapter 2, PartA,
Section 18, noting the following:
6If they have been removed, new cylinder
head bolts (both M11 and M8, of the latest
type with hexagonal heads), flywheel bolts,
and connecting rod bolts must be used.
Note: Refer to the warning at the beginning of
Section 5 before proceeding. A suitable puller
will be required to remove the crankshaft pulley.
A new crankshaft pulley bolt, a new timing chain
tensioner plunger assembly, new upper and
lower timing chain cover gaskets, and a new
camshaft cover gasket and reinforcing sleeve
sealing rings, must be used on refitting.
Removal
1If the engine is in the car, carry out the
following operations:
a)Disconnect the battery negative lead.
b)To improve access, remove the radiator. It
will be difficult to remove the crankshaft
pulley with the radiator in place.c)On carburettor models, remove the air
cleaner.
d)On fuel injection models, remove the air
inlet hose, plenum chamber, and air
cleaner lid as an assembly.
e)Disconnect the breather hose from the
camshaft cover.
f)Remove the distributor cap and HT leads,
and the rotor arm and housing.
2Proceed as described in paragraphs 2 to 11
inclusive of Section 18 (see illustration).
3Remove the alternator drivebelt.
4Slacken the crankshaft pulley bolt. Prevent
the crankshaft from turning by engaging top
gear (manual gearbox only) and having an
assistant press the brake pedal hard, or by
removing the starter motor and jamming the
ring gear teeth with a lever.
5Unscrew the bolt part-way, and use a puller
to remove the crankshaft pulley. The legs ofthe puller must be suitably shaped to enable
them to rest on the metal surfaces of the
pulley. Do not use a puller on the rubber
surface of the pulley (see illustrations).
15Timing chain and sprockets -
removal and refitting
14Engine dismantling,
examination, renovation and
reassembly - general information
2B•8DOHC engine
15.2 Timing chain, oil pump drive chain and associated components
1 Upper timing chain guide
2 Exhaust camshaft sprocket
3 Timing chain
4 Lower timing chain guide
5 Crankshaft sprocket (double)
6 Crankshaft
7 Oil pump chain tensioner
8 Oil pump drive chain
9 Oil pump10 Oil pressure relief valve
11 Oil passage to timing chain tensioner
plunger
12 Plug
13 Timing chain tensioner plunger
14 Timing chain tensioner sprocket
15 Timing chain tensioner arm
16 Inlet camshaft sprocket
17 Copper chain links
15.5a Remove the crankshaft pulley using
a puller (viewed from under vehicle)

Inspection
3Examine the surfaces of the camshaft
journals and lobes and the contact surfaces of
the cam followers for wear. If wear is
excessive considerable noise would have
been noticed from the top of the engine when
running, and new camshafts and followers
must be fitted. It is unlikely that this level of
wear will occur unless a considerable mileage
has been covered. Note that the cam
followers cannot be dismantled for renewal of
individual components.
4Check the camshaft bearing surfaces in the
cylinder head and the bearing caps for wear. If
excessive wear is evident, the only course of
action available is to renew the cylinder head
and bearing caps.
5Check the cam follower bores in the
cylinder head for wear. If excessive wear is
evident, the cylinder head must be renewed.
6Check the cam follower oil grooves and the
oil ports in the cylinder head for obstructions.
Refitting
7Refit the cam followers and the camshafts
as described in paragraphs 27 to 55 of
Section 18.
8If the engine is in the vehicle, reverse the
operations given in paragraph 1.
Note: New flywheel/driveplate securing bolts
must be used on refitting.
1Refer to Chapter 2, PartA, noting the
following points.
2If the engine is in the car, refer to Chapter 6
when removing and refitting the clutch.
3There is no need to make alignment marks
between the flywheel/driveplate and the end
of the crankshaft, as the securing bolt holes
are offset, so the flywheel/driveplate can only
be fitted to the crankshaft in one position.
4The flywheel/driveplate securing bolts must
be renewed when refitting, and the new bolts
are supplied ready-coated with threadlocking
compound (see illustration).
5Check on the availability of new parts
before contemplating renewal of the ring gear.Note: A suitable puller will be required to
remove the crankshaft pulley. A new
crankshaft pulley bolt, and a new lower timing
chain cover gasket, must be used on refitting.
1The crankshaft front oil seal is located in the
lower timing chain cover.
2If the engine is in the car, carry out the
following operations:
a)Disconnect the battery negative lead.
b)To improve access, remove the radiator. It
will be difficult to remove the crankshaft
pulley with the radiator in place.
c)On fuel injection models, remove the air
inlet hose, plenum chamber, and air
cleaner lid as an assembly.
3Proceed as described in paragraphs 3 to 8
of Section 15.
4With the lower timing chain cover removed,
prise the old oil seal from the cover using a
screwdriver, and drive in the new seal using a
suitable metal tube. Make sure that the seal
lip faces into the engine. Take care not to
damage the timing chain cover.
5Refit the lower timing chain cover as
described in paragraphs 31 to 39 of Section
15.
6If the engine is in the vehicle, reverse the
operations given in paragraph 2.
Note: New flywheel/driveplate bolts must be
used on refitting.
1Remove the flywheel/driveplate and the
engine adapter plate.
2Extract the seal using an oil seal removal
tool if available. It may also be possible to
remove the oil seal by drilling the outer face
and using self-tapping screws and a pair of
grips.
3Clean the oil seal housing, then carefully
wind a thin layer of tape around the edge of
the crankshaft to protect the oil seal lip as the
seal is installed.4Ideally, the new oil seal should be installed
using a tool similar to that shown (see
illustration).A suitable tool can be
improvised using a metal tube of suitable
diameter, a metal disc or flat bar, and two
flywheel bolts. Draw the seal into position
using the two flywheel bolts. Make sure that
the seal lip faces into the engine.
5With the oil seal installed, carefully pull the
tape from the edge of the crankshaft.
6Refit the engine adapter plate and the
flywheel/driveplate.Removal
1Sump removal and refitting is far easier if
the engine is removed from the vehicle - if so,
proceed to paragraph 9. However, if the
engine is in the vehicle, proceed as follows.
2Remove the gearbox and clutch, or
automatic transmission, as applicable.
3Remove the flywheel/driveplate and the
engine adapter plate.
4Drain the engine oil into a container.
5Ensure that the steering wheel is positioned
in the straight-ahead position, then remove
the clamp bolt from the lower steering column
clamp, swivel the plate to one side, and
disconnect the lower steering column from
the lower flexible coupling.
6Attach a suitable hoist to the engine lifting
brackets located at the front and rear of the
cylinder head, and carefully take the weight of
the engine.
7Detach the brake lines from the front
suspension crossmember.
8Support the crossmember with a jack, then
loosen the bolts securing the crossmember to
the underbody. Remove the bolts, and
carefully lower the crossmember sufficiently
to allow the sump to be removed.
9If the engine has been removed, it is
preferable to keep it upright until the sump
has been removed, to prevent sludge in the
sump from entering the engine internals.
10Unscrew the sump securing nuts and
bolts, and withdraw the sump from the
engine. If the sump is stuck, gently tap it
sideways to free it (the sump will not move far
sideways, as it locates on studs in the cylinder
block). Do not prise between the mating faces
of the sump and block. Recover the gasket.
11Thoroughly clean the mating faces of the
cylinder block and sump.
Refitting
12Commence refitting by locating a new
gasket in the grooves in the sump.
25Sump - removal and refitting
24Crankshaft rear oil seal -
renewal
23Crankshaft front oil seal -
renewal
22Flywheel/driveplate - removal
inspection and refitting
DOHC engine 2B•15
2B
24.4 Tool used to fit crankshaft rear oil
seal
A Rear oil seal housing
B Special tool22.4 Improvised tool used to hold flywheel
when tightening securing bolts
Warning: A new sump gasket will
be required on refitting, and
suitable sealing compound will
be required to coat the sump and
cylinder block mating faces.
Shims may be required when mating the
engine and gearbox/transmission - see text.

13Apply a suitable sealing compound to the
faces of the cylinder block and sump, at the
points indicated (see illustration).
14Locate the sump on the cylinder block,
then apply suitable thread-locking compound
to the sump securing studs and bolts. Fit the
securing nuts and bolts, but do not fully
tighten them at this stage.
15Align the sump so that its end faces and
the cylinder block are flush. To do this, use a
straight-edge. If the sump cannot be
positioned so that the faces of the cylinder
block and sump are flush, measure the
difference in height using a feeler blade as
shown (see illustration).
16Tighten the sump securing nuts and bolts
to the specified torque, then repeat the
measurement made in paragraph 15. If the
end faces of the sump and cylinder block are
not flush, suitable shims (available from a Ford
dealer) must be fitted between the sump and
the gearbox/transmission to eliminate the
clearance when mating the engine to the
gearbox/transmission. Note that shims should
be fitted at both sides of the sump, as
required. Select suitable shims from those
listed in the following table:
Clearance measuredShims required
0 to 0.25 mmNo shims required
0.25 to 0.29 mm0.15 mm (silver)
0.30 to 0.44 mm0.30 mm (light blue)
0.45 to 0.59 mm0.45 mm (red)
0.60 to 0.75 mm0.60 mm (black)
17If the engine is in the vehicle, proceed as
follows.
18Reverse the procedure described in
paragraphs 2 to 8, noting the following points.19Ensure that the roadwheels and the
steering wheel are in the straight-ahead
position before reconnecting the lower
steering column to the intermediate shaft.
20Fill the engine with the correct grade and
quantity of oil.
21Refit the engine adapter plate and the
flywheel/driveplate.
22Refit the gearbox or automatic
transmission, ensuring that the required shims
are fitted between the sump and the
gearbox/transmission.
23Tighten all fixings to the specified torque,
where applicable.
Note: A suitable puller will be required to
remove the crankshaft pulley. A new
crankshaft pulley bolt, a new lower timing
chain cover gasket, and a new oil pump
gasket, must be used on refitting.
Removal
1If the engine is in the car, carry out the
following operations:
a)Disconnect the battery negative lead.
b)To improve access, remove the radiator. It
will be difficult to remove the crankshaft
pulley with the radiator in place.
c)On fuel injection models, remove the air
inlet hose, plenum chamber, and air
cleaner lid as an assembly.
2Proceed as described in paragraphs 3 to 10
of Section 15.
3Unscrew the four securing bolts, and
withdraw the oil pump from the cylinder block
(see illustrations). Recover the gasket.
Refitting
4Thoroughly clean the mating faces of the
pump and the cylinder block.
5Prime the pump by injecting clean engine
oil into it and turning it by hand.
6Place a new gasket on the oil pump flange,
ensuring that the gasket is correctly located
so that its holes align with the oil passages in
the pump.
7Fit the oil pump, and tighten the securing
bolts to the specified torque.8Proceed as shown in paragraphs 27 to 39
of Section 15.
9If the engine is in the vehicle, reverse the
operations described in paragraph 1.
Dismantling
1The oil pump can be dismantled for
cleaning, but if any of the components are
worn, the pump must be renewed as an
assembly.
2To dismantle the pump, proceed as follows.
3Unscrew the two securing bolts, and
remove the pump cover (see illustration).
4Lift the inner and outer rotors from the
pump casing.
27Oil pump - dismantling,
inspection and reassembly
26Oil pump - removal and
refitting
2B•16DOHC engine
25.13 Apply sealing compound to the
sump/cylinder block mating faces at the
points indicated (2)
Dimensions are for guidance only
26.3b Withdrawing the oil pump
26.3a Oil pump securing bolts (arrowed)25.15 Measuring the clearance between
the cylinder block and sump end faces
27.3 Removing the oil pump cover

5Unscrew the pressure relief valve plug from
the pump cover, recover the washer, and
withdraw the spring and plunger (see
illustrations).
Inspection
6Thoroughly clean all components in petrol or
paraffin, and wipe dry using a non-fluffy rag.
7Examine the rotors and the pump casing for
signs of excessive wear on the machined
surfaces. If wear is evident, the complete
pump assembly must be renewed, as spare
parts are not available individually.
Reassembly
8Commence reassembly by lubricating the
relief valve plunger. Fit the plunger and the
spring, and screw the plug into place,
ensuring that the washer is in place under the
plug.
9Lubricate the rotors, and fit them to the
pump casing with the punch marks facing the
pump cover (see illustration).
10Refit the pump cover and tighten the
securing bolts.
11Prime the pump before refitting.
1Examine all the teeth on the sprockets. If
the teeth are “hooked” in appearance, renew
the sprockets.
2Examine the chain tensioner for wear, and
renew it if necessary.3Examine the chain for wear. If it has been in
operation for a considerable time, or if when
held horizontally (rollers vertical) it takes on a
deeply-bowed appearance, renew it.
Note: New connecting rod bolts and a new oil
pick-up pipe gasket must be used on refitting.
Removal
1Remove the sump and the cylinder head.
2Unscrew the two securing bolts, and
remove the oil pick-up pipe (see illustration).
Recover the gasket.
3Unscrew the four securing nuts, and
withdraw the oil baffle from the studs on the
main bearing caps (see illustration).
4Proceed as described in Chapter 2, PartA,
Section 32, paragraphs 2 to 5.
Refitting
5Proceed as described in Chapter 2, PartA,
Section 32, paragraphs 6 to 13, noting the
following points:
6Take note of the orientation of the bearing
shells during dismantling, and ensure that
they are fitted correctly during reassembly.
7When fitting the pistons, ensure that the
arrow on the piston crown and the letter “F”
on the face of the connecting rod are pointing
towards the front of the engine.
8Use new connecting rod bolts on
reassembly, and before fitting, oil the threads
and the contact faces of the bolts. Tighten thebolts in the three stages given in the
Specifications at the beginning of this
Chapter.
9Refit the oil baffle, and tighten the securing
nuts.
10Clean the mating faces of the cylinder
block and the oil pick-up pipe, and refit the
pick-up pipe using a new gasket.
11Refit the cylinder head and the sump.
Note: A new crankshaft rear oil seal and a new
rear oil seal housing gasket should be used on
refitting.
Removal
1With the engine removed from the vehicle,
remove the timing chain and crankshaft
sprocket, and the flywheel/driveplate.
2Remove the pistons and connecting rods. If
no work is to be done on the pistons and
connecting rods, there is no need to push the
pistons out of the cylinder bores.
3Unbolt the crankshaft rear oil seal housing,
and remove it from the rear of the cylinder
block. Recover the gasket.
4Unscrew the two securing bolts, and
remove the sump mounting plate from the
front of the cylinder block (see illustration).
5Check the main bearing caps for
identification marks, and if necessary, use a
centre-punch to identify them (see
illustration).
30Crankshaft and main bearings
- removal and refitting
29Pistons and connecting rods
- removal and refitting
28Oil pump drive chain and
sprockets - examination and
renovation
DOHC engine 2B•17
2B
27.5b . . . and withdraw the spring and
plunger
30.4 Unscrewing a sump mounting plate
securing bolt29.3 Withdrawing the oil baffle29.2 Removing the oil pick-up pipe
27.9 The punch marks (arrowed) on the oil
pump rotors must face the pump cover27.5a Unscrew the pressure relief valve
plug and washer . . .

6Before removing the crankshaft, check that
the endfloat is within the specified limits by
inserting a feeler blade between the centre
crankshaft web and one of the thrustwashers
(the thrustwashers are fitted to the crankcase,
not the bearing cap). This will indicate whether
or not new thrustwashers are required.
7Unscrew the bolts, and tap off the main
bearing caps complete with bearing shells.
8Lift the crankshaft from the cylinder block,
and remove the rear oil seal if it is still in place
on the crankshaft.
9Extract the bearing shells, and recover the
thrustwashers, keeping them identified for
location.
Refitting
10Commence refitting as follows(see
illustration).
11Wipe the bearing shell locations in the
crankcase, and the crankshaft journals with a
soft non-fluffy rag.
12If the old main bearing shells are to be
renewed (not to do so is a false economy,
unless they are virtually new) fit the five upper
halves of the main bearing shells to their
locations in the crankcase.
13Fit the thrustwashers to the centre main
bearing location, using a little grease to retain
them if necessary. The oil grooves in the
thrustwashers must face outwards (ie facing
the crankshaft webs). Note that where
standard thrustwashers have been fitted in
production, the centre main bearing is
unmarked. If oversize (0.38 mm)
thrustwashers have been fitted, the centre
main bearing will carry a yellow paint mark.
14Lubricate the crankshaft journals and the
upper and lower main bearing shells with
clean engine oil, then carefully lower the
crankshaft into the crankcase.
15Lubricate the crankshaft main bearing
journals again, and then fit the main bearing
caps in their correct locations, with the arrows
on the caps pointing to the front of the engine.16Fit the main bearing cap bolts, noting that
the studded bolts secure bearing caps Nos 3
and 5.
17Lightly tighten all the securing bolts, then
progressively tighten all bolts to the specified
torque.
18Check that the crankshaft rotates freely.
Some stiffness is to be expected with new
components, but there must be no tight spots
or binding.
19Check that the crankshaft endfloat is
within the specified limits by inserting a feeler
blade between the centre crankshaft web and
the thrustwashers.
20Refit the sump mounting plate to the front
of the cylinder block, and tighten the securing
bolts to the specified torque.
21Carefully wind a thin layer of tape around
the rear edge of the crankshaft, to protect the
oil seal lips as the rear oil seal is installed.
22Refit the crankshaft rear oil seal housing,
using a new gasket, and tighten the securing
bolts to the specified torque.
23Ideally, the new oil seal should be
installed using a tool similar to that used for
fitting the crankshaft rear oil seal. A suitable
tool can be improvised using a metal tube of
suitable diameter, a metal disc or flat bar, and
two flywheel bolts. Draw the seal into position
using the two flywheel bolts. Make sure that
the seal lip faces into the engine.
24With the oil seal installed, carefully pull the
tape from the edge of the crankshaft.
25Refit the pistons and connecting rods.
26Refit the flywheel/driveplate, and the
timing chain and crankshaft sprocket.1Proceed as described in Chapter 2, PartA,
noting the following.
2Production bearing undersizes are
indicated as follows:
Yellow or red paint marks on crankshaft -
standard-diameter main bearing journals.
Green line on crankshaft front counterweight
- main bearing journals 0.25 mm
undersize.
Green spot on counterweight - big-end
bearing journals 25 mm undersize.
1Refer to Chapter 2, PartA, but note that
when the engine is first started, a metallic
tapping noise may be heard. This is due to the
timing chain tensioner plunger assembly
taking time to pressurise with oil, resulting in a
temporarily slack chain. The noise should
stop after a short time, once oil pressure has
built up.
32Initial start-up after overhaul or
major repair
31Crankshaft and bearings -
examination and renovation
2B•18DOHC engine
30.5 Main bearing cap identification mark
(arrowed)
30.10 Crankshaft main bearings and associated components
1 Bearing cap
2 Thrustwasher
3 Stud for oil baffle4 Identification markings
5 Bearing shell without oil
groove6 Bearing shell with oil
groove
7 Bearing seat in cylinder
block