battery location FORD SIERRA 1992 2.G Routine Manintenance And Servicing Workshop Manual

Maintenance - component location 1•5
1
Underbonnet view of a 1985 2.0 litre SOHC
fuel injection model
1 Battery
2 Brake servo non-return valve
3 Ignition coil
4 Suspension strut top
5 Fuel filter
6 Air cleaner
7 Airflow meter
8 Fuel pressure regulator
9 Air inlet hose
10 Throttle body
11 Alternator
12 VIN plate
13 Windscreen washer reservoir
14 Coolant expansion tank
15 Oil filler cap
16 Idle speed control valve
17 Inlet manifold
18 Brake fluid reservoir
19 Fusebox
20 Windscreen wiper motor
21 Engine oil level dipstick
Underbonnet view of a 1983 2.0 litre SOHC
carburettor model (air cleaner removed)
1 Brake fluid reservoir
2 Windscreen wiper motor
3 Battery
4 Ignition coil
5 Carburettor
6 Distributor
7 Fuel pressure regulator
8 Thermostat housing
9 Radiator top hose
10 Upper fan shroud
11 Alternator
12 Windscreen washer reservoir
13 Oil filler cap
14 Cooler expansion tank
15 Suspension strut top
16 VIN plate
17 Fusebox

1•6Maintenance - component location
Underbonnet view of a 1990 2.0 litre DOHC
fuel injection model
1 Battery
2 Braking system deceleration-sensitive valve
3 Ignition coil
4 Suspension strut top
5 Air cleaner
6 Plenum chamber
7 Idle speed control valve
8 Distributor
9 Oil filler cap
10 VIN plate
11 Windscreen washer reservoir filler neck
12 Power steering fluid reservoir
13 Coolant expansion tank
14 Manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor
15 Brake fluid reservoir
16 Inlet manifold
17 Fuel pressure regulator
18 Fusebox
19 Windscreen wiper motor
Underbonnet view of a 1989 1.8 litre (R2A)
CVH model (air cleaner removed)
1 Battery
2 Suspension strut top
3 Ignition coil
4 Coolant expansion tank
5 Alternator
6 Distributor cap shroud
7 VIN plate
8 Electric cooling fan
9 Radiator top hose
10 Windscreen washer reservoir
11 Fuel vapour separator
12 Thermostat housing
13 Oil filler cap
14 Carburettor
15 Brake fluid reservoir
16 Engine oil level dipstick
17 Windscreen wiper motor
18 Fusebox

Maintenance - component location 1•7
1
Front underside view of a 1990
2.0 GLS model
1 Horns
2 Tie-rod end
3 Tie-rod
4 Gaiter
5 Coolant pump
6 Suspension lower arm
7 Anti-roll bar
8 Starter motor
9 Exhaust downpipes
10 Crossmember
11 Engine sump
12 Oil filter
13 Power steering fluid pump
14 Windscreen washer reservoir
15 Cooling fans
Underbonnet view of a 1992 1.6 litre
CVH model (air cleaner removed)
1 Battery
2 Braking system deceleration-sensitive
valve
3 Suspension strut top
4 Coolant expansion tank
5 Pulse-air filter
6 Vacuum-operated air valve
7 Alternator
8 Cooling fans
9 Oil filler cap
10 Thermostat housing
11 VIN plate
12 Windscreen washer reservoir filler neck
13 Ignition module
14 Pulse-air control solenoid
15 CFI unit
16 Brake fluid reservoir
17 Engine oil level dipstick
18 Manifold absolute pressure (MAP)
Sensor
19 Fusebox
20 Windscreen wiper motor

General information
This Chapter is designed to help the home
mechanic maintain his/her vehicle for safety,
economy, long life and peak performance.
The Chapter contains a master
maintenance schedule, followed by Sections
dealing specifically with each task in the
schedule. Visual checks, adjustments,
component renewal and other helpful items
are included. Refer to the accompanying
illustrations of the engine compartment and
the underside of the vehicle for the locations
of the various components.
Servicing your vehicle in accordance with
the mileage/time maintenance schedule and
the following Sections will provide a planned
maintenance programme, which should result
in a long and reliable service life. This is a
comprehensive plan, so maintaining some
items but not others at the specified service
intervals, will not produce the same results.
As you service your vehicle, you will discover
that many of the procedures can - and should -
be grouped together, because of the particular
procedure being performed, or because of the
close proximity of two otherwise-unrelated
components to one another. For example, if
the vehicle is raised for any reason, the exhaust
can be inspected at the same time as thesuspension and steering components.
The first step in this maintenance
programme is to prepare yourself before the
actual work begins. Read through all the
Sections relevant to the work to be carried
out, then make a list and gather together all
the parts and tools required. If a problem is
encountered, seek advice from a parts
specialist, or a dealer service department.
Intensive maintenance
If, from the time the vehicle is new, the
routine maintenance schedule is followed
closely, and frequent checks are made of fluid
levels and high-wear items, as suggested
throughout this manual, the engine will be
kept in relatively good running condition, and
the need for additional work will be minimised.
It is possible that there will be times when
the engine is running poorly due to the lack of
regular maintenance. This is even more likely
if a used vehicle, which has not received
regular and frequent maintenance checks, is
purchased. In such cases, additional work
may need to be carried out, outside of the
regular maintenance intervals.
If engine wear is suspected, a compression
test will provide valuable information
regarding the overall performance of the main
internal components. Such a test can be used
as a basis to decide on the extent of the work
to be carried out. If, for example, a
compression test indicates serious internal
engine wear, conventional maintenance as
described in this Chapter will not greatlyimprove the performance of the engine, and
may prove a waste of time and money, unless
extensive overhaul work is carried out first.
The following series of operations are those
most often required to improve the
performance of a generally poor-running
engine:
Primary operations
a)Clean, inspect and test the battery
b)Check all the engine-related fluids
c)Check the condition and tension of the
auxiliary drivebelt
d)Renew the spark plugs
e)Inspect the distributor cap and HT leads -
as applicable
f)Check the condition of the air cleaner
filter element, and renew if necessary
g)Renew the fuel filter
h)Check the condition of all hoses, and
check for fluid leaks
i)Check the idle speed and mixture settings
- as applicable
If the above operations do not prove fully
effective, carry out the following secondary
operations:
Secondary operations
a)Check the charging system
b)Check the ignition system
c)Check the fuel system
d)Renew the distributor cap and rotor arm -
as applicable
f)Renew the ignition HT leads - as
applicable
2Introduction
See “Weekly checks”.
See “Weekly checks”.See “Weekly checks”.
See “Weekly checks”.See “Weekly checks”.
7Wiper blade check
6Battery electrolyte level check
5Electrical system check
4Tyre checks
3Fluid level checks
1Frequent oil and filter changes are the most
important preventative maintenance
procedures which can be undertaken by the
DIY owner. As engine oil ages, it becomes
diluted and contaminated, which leads to
premature engine wear.
2Before starting this procedure, gather
together all the necessary tools and materials.
Also make sure that you have plenty of clean
rags and newspapers handy, to mop up any
spills. Ideally, the engine oil should be warm,
as it will drain better, and more built-upsludge will be removed with it. Take care,
however, not to touch the exhaust or any
other hot parts of the engine when working
under the vehicle. To avoid any possibility of
scalding, and to protect yourself from
possible skin irritants and other harmful
contaminants in used engine oils, it is
advisable to wear gloves when carrying out
this work. Access to the underside of the
vehicle will be greatly improved if it can be
raised on a lift, driven onto ramps, or jacked
up and supported on axle stands (see
“Jacking and vehicle support”). Whichever
method is chosen, make sure that the vehicle
remains level, or if it is at an angle, so that the
drain plug is at the lowest point (see
illustration).
8Engine oil and filter renewal
Maintenance procedures 1•9
1
8.2 Sump drain plug location
Every 250 miles (400 km) or weekly
Every 6000 miles (10 000 km) or 6 months

3Wipe clean around the filler/level plug.
Unscrew the plug and remove it(see
illustration).
4Using a suitably marked piece of bent wire
as a dipstick, check that the oil level is as
shown in the table at the top of this page,
according to gearbox type.
5Top-up the level if necessary, using clean
oil of the specified type. Do not overfill, as this
can lead to leakage and difficult gear
changing. Allow excess oil to drip out of the
filler/level hole if necessary. Refit and tighten
the filler/level plug on completion.
6The frequent need for topping-up can only
be due to leaks, which should be rectified.
The most likely sources of leaks are the rear
extension housing and input shaft oil seals.
7No periodic oil changing is specified, and
no drain plug is fitted.
1Work around the vehicle, and lubricate the
bonnet, door and tailgate hinges with a light
machine oil.
2Lightly lubricate the bonnet release
mechanism and exposed sections of inner
cable with a smear of grease.
3Check the security and operation of all
hinges, latches and locks, adjusting them
where required. Where applicable, check the
operation of the central locking system.
4Check the condition and operation of the
tailgate struts, renewing them if either is
leaking or is no longer able to support the
tailgate securely when raised.
1The correct functioning of the spark plugs is
vital for the correct running and efficiency of
the engine. It is essential that the plugs fitted
are appropriate for the engine.
2Make sure that the ignition is switched off
before inspecting the HT leads to see if they
carry their cylinder numbers. Note that the
position of No 1 cylinder HT lead in the
distributor cap is marked with either a pip, or
a number “1 “.3Where necessary, for improved access
remove the air cleaner and/or the inlet hose.
4Disconnect the leads from the plugs by
pulling on the connectors, not the leads.
5On 2.0 litre DOHC carburettor models, the
location of the spark plugs and the close
proximity of the carburettor makes spark plug
access difficult, particularly when removing
the plugs from cylinders 2 and 3. It is
suggested that a 3/8 inch ratchet drive spark
plug socket with rubber insert and long
extension bar is used, possibly in conjunction
with a universal joint adapter. It is also
advisable to disconnect No 3 cylinder HT lead
from the distributor first, to allow some slack
for disconnection at the spark plug.
6Clean the area around each spark plug
using a small brush, then using a plug
spanner (preferably with a rubber insert),
unscrew and remove the plugs(see
illustration).Cover the spark plug holes with
a clean rag to prevent the ingress of any
foreign matter.
7Before fitting new spark plugs, check that
the threaded connector sleeves are tight. As
the plugs incorporate taper seats, make sure
that the threads and seats are clean.8On DOHC models before refitting the spark
plugs, coat their threads with suitable anti-
seize compound, taking care not to
contaminate the electrodes.
9Screw in the spark plugs by hand, then
tighten them to the specified torque. Do not
exceed the torque figure.
10Push the HT leads firmly onto the spark
plugs, and where applicable refit the air
cleaner and/or inlet hose.
1Refer to the Specifications at the beginning
of this Chapter and check the tension of each
drivebelt at the point stated. Check the full
length of each drivebelt for cracks and
deterioration. It will be necessary to turn the
engine in order to check that portion of the
drivebelt in contact with the pulleys. Renew or
tension each belt as necessary as follows,
according to model type:
SOHC models
2Note that two drivebelts are fitted to models
equipped with power steering and both
should be renewed if either one is
unserviceable. Where fitted, the air
conditioning compressor is driven by a
separate belt.
3Disconnect the battery negative lead.
4Where applicable, remove the air
conditioning compressor drivebelt.
5Loosen the alternator mounting and
adjustment nuts and bolts, and pivot the
alternator towards the cylinder block.
6Slip the drivebelt(s) from the alternator,
water pump, crankshaft and (where
applicable) the power steering pump pulleys.
7Fit the new drivebelt(s) over the pulleys,
then lever the alternator away from the
cylinder block until the specified belt tension
is achieved. Lever the alternator using a
wooden or plastic lever at the pulley end to
prevent damage and straining the brackets. It
is helpful to partially tighten the adjustment
link bolt before tensioning the drivebelt(s).
21Auxiliary drivebelt check
20Spark plug renewal
19Hinge and lock check and
lubrication
1•14Every 12 000 miles or 12 months
18.3 Gearbox filler/level plug location
(arrowed) - N type gearbox
20.6 Removing a spark plug - CVH engine
Note: The vehicle build code appears as the twelfth and thirteenth characters of the VIN number
on the plate in the engine compartment.
Gearbox type
All four-speed gearboxes
All five-speed gearboxes up to April 1984 (build
code E6) except those subsequently fitted with
a modified extension housing
All five-speed gearboxes from May 1984 (build
code EC) to end of April 1985 (build code FP)
and all vehicles built up to April 1984 (build
code E6) subsequently fitted with a modified
gearbox extension housing
All five-speed gearboxes from May 1985Oil level
0 to 5.0 mm (0 to 0.2 in) below lower edge of
filler/level hole
Level with bottom edge of filler/level hole
20.0 to 25.0 mm (0.79 to 0.99 in) below lower
edge of filler/level hole
0 to 5.0 mm (0 to 0.2 in)below lower edge of
filler/level hole
Number each HT lead using
sticky tape or paint before
removal so as to avoid
confusion when refitting.

6Fit the new filter, ensuring that the arrows on
the filter body point in the direction of fuel flow.
7Tighten the clamp screw, and reconnect
the fuel inlet and outlet unions. Ensure that the
unions are correctly connected.
8Reconnect the battery negative lead, and
check the fuel line unions for leaks,
pressurising the system by switching the
ignition on and off several times.
All models except 2.0 litre SOHC
9Proceed as described for the 2.0 litre SOHCmodels, noting the following points.
10The fuel filter is located under the rear of
the vehicle, above the driveshaft (see
illustration). For access to the filter, chock
the front wheels, then jack up the rear of the
vehicle and support it on axle stands.
11To remove the filter, the mounting bracket
must first be removed from the floor, after
unscrewing the securing bolt. The filter can
then be removed from the bracket after
unscrewing the clamp bolt.On carburettor model SOHC engines,
renew the crankcase ventilation vent valve by
pulling it from the oil separator and loosening
the hose clip (see illustration). Fit the new
valve, tighten the clip, and insert it into the oil
separator grommet.
42Crankcase ventilation vent
valve renewal
If in doubt as to the condition of any of the
brake system seals and hoses, then renew
defective items whilst referring to the relevant
Sections of Chapter 10.
1An assistant and bleeding equipment will
be needed. A considerable quantity of
hydraulic fluid will be required - probably
about 2 litres (nearly half a gallon).
2Slacken the front wheel nuts. Raise and
support the front of the vehicle and remove
the front wheels.
3Remove the hydraulic fluid reservoir cap.
4Open both front bleed screws one full turn.
Attach one bleed tube to each screw, placing
the free end of each tube in a jar.
5Pump the brake pedal to expel fluid from
the bleed screws. Pause after each upstroke
to allow the master cylinder to refill.
6When air emerges from both bleed screws,
stop pumping. Detach the left-hand caliper
without disconnecting it and remove the
inboard brake pad.
7Depress the caliper piston, using a
purpose-made tool or a blunt item such as a
tyre lever, to force more fluid out of the
caliper. Hold the piston depressed and have
the assistant pump the pedal until air emerges
from the bleed screw again.8Tighten the bleed screw on the left-hand
caliper. Loosely refit the caliper and pad so
that the piston is not accidentally ejected.
9Repeat the purging operation on the right-
hand caliper, but do not refit it or tighten the
bleed screw yet.
10Fill the reservoir with fresh hydraulic fluid.
Position the bleed jar for the right-hand
caliper at least 300 mm (1 foot) above the
level of the bleed screw.
11Have the assistant pump the brake pedal
until fluid free of bubbles emerges from the
bleed screw. Tighten the bleed screw at the
end of a downstroke.
12Place a piece of wood in the caliper jaws
to limit piston travel. Keep your fingers clear
of the piston. Have the assistant depress the
brake pedal gentlyin order to move the
caliper piston out.
13With the pedal held depressed, slacken
the bleed screw on the right-hand caliper and
again depress the piston. Tighten the bleed
screw when the piston is retracted. The pedal
can now be released.
14Disconnect the bleed tube. Refit the right-
hand brake pad and caliper.
15Remove the left-hand caliper and inboard
pad again. Carry out the operations described
in paragraphs 10 to 14 on the left-hand
caliper.
16Bleed the rear brakes (Chapter 10).
17Refit the front wheels, lower the vehicle
and tighten the wheel nuts.
18Pump the brake pedal to bring the pads
up to the discs, then make a final check of the
hydraulic fluid level. Top-up and refit the
reservoir cap.Camshaft drivebelt renewal is
recommended as a precautionary measure for
SOHC engines but is compulsory for CVH
engines. Refer to Chapter 2 for the
appropriate renewal procedure.
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2It is preferable to drain the cooling system
with the engine cold. If this is not possible,
take precautions against scalding when
removing the expansion tank cap. Place a
thick rag over the cap and slacken the cap a
little to release any pressure. When all
pressure has been released, carry on
unscrewing the cap and remove it.
3Early models have no radiator drain plug, so
the radiator must be drained by detaching the
bottom coolant hose from the outlet on the
right-hand side of the radiator. Later SOHC
models have a drain plug located in the base
of the left-hand radiator end tank, whilst all
CVH models have a drain plug in the
right-hand radiator end tank and DOHC
models have a plug to the bottom right-hand
side of the radiator.
46Engine coolant renewal
45Camshaft drivebelt renewal
44Brake hydraulic fluid renewal
43Brake hydraulic system seal
and hose renewal
Every 36 000 miles or 3 years 1•21
1
42.1 Removing the crankcase vent valve
from the oil separator41.10 Fuel filter location (arrowed) under
rear of vehicle41.1 Fuel filter location - outlet union
arrowed
Caution: Before proceeding,
note the precautions given in
Chapter 3, Section 1.
Every 36 000 miles (60 000 km) or 3 years