battery FORD SIERRA 1992 2.G SOHC Engines Workshop Manual

Piston ring end gap:
Top:
Up to 1985 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.038 to 0.048 mm
From 1985 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.400 to 0.600 mm
Centre:
Up to 1985 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.038 to 0.048 mm
From 1985 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.400 to 0.600 mm
Bottom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.400 to 1.400 mm
Auxiliary shaft
Endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.050 to 0.204 mm (0.002 to 0.008 in)
Cylinder head
Specifications as for 1.3 litre engine
Valves
Specifications as for 1.3 litre engine except for the following:
Valve clearance (cold engine):
Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.20 ±0.03 mm (0.008 ±0.001 in)
Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.25 ±0.003 mm (0.010 ±0.001 in)
Valve timing:All except code NAEEngine code NAE
Inlet opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24¼ BTDC18¼ BTDC
Inlet closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .64¼ ABDC58¼ ABDC
Exhaust opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .70¼ BBDC70¼ BBDC
Exhaust closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18¼ ATDC6¼ ATDC
Lubrication system
Specifications as for 1.3 litre engine
Torque wrench settingsNmlbf ft
Specifications as for 1.3 litre engine except for the following:
Crankshaft pulley bolt:
Fuel injection models up to 1987 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .115 to 13085 to 96
Fuel injection models from 1987 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .100 to 11574 to 85
SOHC engines 2A¥7
2A
The engine is of a four-cylinder, in-line,
single overhead camshaft type, mounted at
the front of the vehicle and available in 1.3,
1.6, 1.8 and 2.0 litre versions.
The crankshaft incorporates five main
bearings. Thrustwashers are fitted to the
centre main bearing in order to control
crankshaft endfloat.
The camshaft is driven by a toothed belt
and operates the slightly angled valves via
cam followers which pivot on ball-pins.
The auxiliary shaft which is also driven by
the toothed belt, drives the distributor, oil
pump and fuel pump.
The cylinder head is of crossflow design
with the inlet manifold mounted on the left-
hand side and the exhaust manifold mounted
on the right-hand side.
Lubrication is by means of a bi-rotor pump
which draws oil through a strainer located
inside the sump, and forces it through a full-
flow filter into the engine oil galleries where it
is distributed to the crankshaft, camshaft and
auxiliary shaft. The big-end bearings are
supplied with oil via internal drillings in the
crankshaft. The undersides of the pistons are
supplied with oil from drillings in the big-ends.
The distributor shaft is intermittently supplied
with oil from the drilled auxiliary shaft. The
camshaft followers are supplied with oil via adrilled spray tube from the centre camshaft
bearing.
A semi-closed crankcase ventilation system
is employed whereby piston blow-by gases
are drawn into the inlet manifold via an oil
separator and control valve.
Refer to Chapter 1, Section 8.
Refer to Chapter 1, Section 23.
Refer to Chapter 1, Section 35.
1When engine performance is poor, or if
misfiring occurs which cannot be attributed to
the ignition or fuel system, a compression test
can provide diagnostic clues. If the test is
performed regularly it can give warning of
trouble before any other symptoms become
apparent.2The engine must be at operating
temperature, the battery must be fully
charged and the spark plugs must be
removed. The services of an assistant will also
be required.
3Disable the ignition system by
disconnecting the coil LT feed. Fit the
compression tester to No 1 spark plug hole.
(The type of tester which screws into the
spark plug hole is to be preferred.)
4Have the assistant hold the throttle wide
open and crank the engine on the starter.
Record the highest reading obtained on the
compression tester.
5Repeat the test on the remaining cylinders,
recording the pressure developed in each.
6Desired pressures are given in the
Specifications. If the pressure in any cylinder
is low, introduce a teaspoonful of clean
engine oil into the spark plug hole and repeat
the test.
7If the addition of oil temporarily improves
the compression pressure, this indicates that
bore, piston or piston ring wear was
responsible for the pressure loss. No
improvement suggests that leaking or burnt
valves, or a blown head gasket, may be to
blame.
8A low reading from the two adjacent
cylinders is almost certainly due to the head
gasket between them having blown.
9On completion of the test, refit the spark
plugs and reconnect the coil LT feed.
5Compression test
4Crankcase ventilation system -
inspection and maintenance
3Valve clearances - checking and
adjustment
2Engine oil and filter - renewal
1General information

The following operations can be carried out
without removing the engine from the vehicle:
a)Removal and servicing of the cylinder
head
b)Removal of the camshaft after removal of
the cylinder head
c)Removal of the timing belt and sprockets
d)Removal of the sump
e)Removal of the oil pump
f)Removal of the pistons and connecting
rods
g)Removal of the big-end bearings
h)Removal of the engine mountings
i)Removal of the clutch and flywheel
j)Removal of crankshaft front and rear oil
seals
k)Removal of the auxiliary shaft
The following operations can only be carried
out after removing the engine from the
vehicle:
a)Removal of the crankshaft main bearings
b)Removal of the crankshaft
The engine may be lifted out either on its
own, or together with the manual
gearbox/automatic transmission. Unless work
is to be carried out on the manual
gearbox/automatic transmission, it is
recommended that the engine is removed on
its own. Where automatic transmission is
fitted, the engine should where possible be
removed on its own due to the additional
weight of the transmission. Note: The air conditioning system should
always be discharged by a Ford dealer or air
conditioning specialist.
Note: Refer to the warning in Section 8 before
proceeding. A suitable hoist and lifting tackle
will be required for this operation.
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the bonnet.
3On carburettor models remove the air cleaner.
4On fuel injection models, disconnect the
crankcase ventilation hose from the air inlet
hose, then disconnect the air inlet hose from
the throttle body. Depress the locking clip on
the airflow meter wiring plug and disconnect
the plug (pulling on the plug, not the wiring)
then release the four securing clips and lift off
the air cleaner lid with the airflow meter and
air inlet hose.
5Remove the four retaining clips and
unscrew the two retaining screws, then
withdraw the upper section of the cooling fan
shroud from the radiator. Unclip and remove
the lower section of the shroud.
6Remove the thermo-viscous cooling fan as
described in Chapter 3.
7Drain the cooling system.
8Disconnect the upper radiator hose and
where applicable, the expansion tank hose
from the thermostat housing.
9Disconnect the coolant hoses from the
coolant pump, and where applicable from the
inlet manifold and automatic choke. Unclip
the coolant hose from the bracket on the
exhaust manifold hot air shroud/heat shield,
or the camshaft cover, as applicable.
10On carburettor models, where applicable
disconnect the vacuum pipe from the engine
management module.
11Disconnect the brake servo vacuum pipe
from the inlet manifold.
12On carburettor models, disconnect the fuel
hoses from the carburettor and where
applicable the mechanical fuel pump and plug
the ends of the hoses to minimise petrol
spillage. Remember to take adequate fire
precautions.
13On fuel injection models, disconnect the
fuel feed line from the fuel pressure regulator,
then disconnect the fuel supply hose from thefuel rail. Position a suitable container beneath
the pressure regulator, then slowly loosen the
fuel feed union to relieve the pressure in the
fuel lines before disconnecting the union.
Take adequate fire precautions. Plug the ends
of the hoses to minimise petrol spillage.
14Disconnect the throttle cable, and where
applicable remove its bracket.
15Disconnect the HT lead from the ignition
coil.
16Disconnect the wiring from the following
components as applicable depending on
model:
Alternator
Starter motor
Distributor
Oil pressure warning lamp switch
Temperature gauge sender
Engine coolant temperature sensor
Automatic choke
Automatic choke pull-down solenoid
Carburettor anti-dieselling valve
Inlet manifold heater
Carburettor stepper motor
Fuel injection harness
Dipstick
17Where applicable, detach the power
steering pump from the cylinder block and
move it to one side.
18Unscrew and remove the top engine-to-
gearbox bolts which are accessible from the
engine compartment. Note the location of the
earth strap on one of the bolts.
19Note the location of the earth strap on the
rear inlet manifold stud, then remove the nut
and disconnect the strap.
20Apply the handbrake (if not already done),
jack up the front of the vehicle and support on
axle stands (see ÒJacking and Vehicle SupportÓ).
21Drain the engine oil into a suitable
container.
22Remove the starter motor.
23Remove the exhaust downpipe.
24Unscrew the nuts or bolts, as applicable,
securing the engine mountings to the
crossmember. Recover the washers.
25Unscrew and remove the remaining
engine-to-gearbox bolts, and remove the bolt
from the engine adapter plate (see
illustration).
26Remove the two securing bolts and
disconnect the engine-to-gearbox brace from
the engine and gearbox.
27Working inside the vehicle, place a
wooden block under the clutch pedal to raise
it fully against its stop which will hold the
automatic adjuster pawl clear of the toothed
quadrant.
28Disconnect the clutch cable from the
clutch release arm, and pass the cable
through the bellhousing. Where applicable,
remove the clip securing the clutch cable to
the right-hand engine mounting bracket. Note
the cable routing for use when refitting.
29Lower the vehicle to the ground, and
support the gearbox with a trolley jack, using
a block of wood between the jack and the
gearbox to spread the load.
30Make a final check to ensure that all
relevant wires, pipes and hoses have been
disconnected to facilitate engine removal.
9Engine - removal leaving
manual gearbox in vehicle
8Method of engine removal
7Major operations requiring
engine removal
6Major operations possible with
the engine in the vehicle
2A¥8SOHC engines
9.25 Engine adapter plate bolt (A) and
engine-to-gearbox brace (B)
Warning: Vehicles equipped
with air conditioning:
Components of the air
conditioning system may
obstruct work being undertaken on the
engine, and it is not always possible to
unbolt and move them aside sufficiently,
within the limits of their flexible
connecting pipes. In such a case, the
system should be discharged by a Ford
dealer or air conditioning specialist. The
refrigerant is harmless under normal
conditions, but in the presence of a naked
flame (or a lighted cigarette) it forms a
highly toxic gas. Liquid refrigerant spilled
on the skin will cause frostbite. If
refrigerant enters the eyes, rinse them
with a diluted solution of boric acid and
seek medical advice immediately.

Examination and renovation
11With the engine completely stripped,
clean all the components and examine them
for wear. Each part should be checked, and
where necessary renewed or renovated as
described in the relevant Sections. Renew
main and big end shell bearings as a matter of
course, unless it is known that they have had
little wear and are in perfect condition.
12If in doubt as to whether to renew a
component which is still just serviceable,
consider the time and effort which will be
incurred should it fail at an early date.
Obviously the age and expected life of the
vehicle must influence the standards applied.
13Gaskets, oil seals and O-rings must all be
renewed as a matter of routine. Flywheel and
Torx type cylinder head bolts must be
renewed because of the high stresses to
which they are subjected.
14Take the opportunity to renew the engine
core plugs while they are easily accessible.
Knock out the old plugs with a hammer and
chisel or punch. Clean the plug seats, smear
the new plugs with sealant and tap them
squarely into position.
Reassembly
15To ensure maximum life with minimum
trouble from a rebuilt engine, not only must
everything be correctly assembled, but it must
also be spotlessly clean. All oilways must be
clear, and locking washers and spring
washers must be fitted where indicated. Oil all
bearings and other working surfaces
thoroughly with clean engine oil during
assembly.
16Before assembly begins, renew any bolts
or studs with damaged threads.
17Gather together a torque wrench, oil can,
clean rag, and a set of engine gaskets and oil
seals, together with a new oil filter.
18If they have been removed, new Torx type
cylinder head bolts and new flywheel bolts will
be required.
19After reassembling the main engine
components, refit the ancillary components
listed, referring to the appropriate Chapters
where necessary. Delicate items such as the
alternator and distributor may be left until after
the engine has been refitted if preferred.20If the crankcase ventilation oil separator
was removed, apply a liquid sealing agent to
its tube before pressing it into the cylinder
block.
Note: Refer to the warning in Section 8 before
proceeding. On models from mid-1985
(without a timing belt tensioner spring) the belt
tension should be checked using Ford special
tool No 21-113 after refitting. On models up to
mid-1985 (with a tensioner spring), a suitable
splined socket will be required for the
tensioner spring bolt. A suitable puller may be
required to remove the sprockets.
Removal
1If the engine is in the vehicle, carry out the
following operations:
a)Disconnect the battery negative lead
b)Remove the thermo-viscous cooling fan
c)Remove the coolant
pump/alternator/power-steering pump
drivebelt(s)
d)For improved access, remove the radiator
and disconnect the radiator top hose from
the thermostat housing
2Unscrew the three securing bolts and
washers and withdraw the timing cover. Note
the position of the fourth bolt above the
crankshaft pulley which can be left in place.
3Using a socket on the crankshaft pulley
bolt, turn the engine clockwise until the TDC
(top dead centre) mark on the crankshaft
pulley is aligned with the pointer on the
crankshaft front oil seal housing (see
illustration 16.2a of Chapter 5) and the pointer
on the camshaft sprocket backplate is aligned
with the indentation on the cylinder head (see
illustration).
4On models up to mid-1985 (with a tensioner
spring), loosen the timing belt tensioner spring
bolt using the special splined socket (see
illustration), then loosen the tensioner pivot
bolt. If necessary for improved access,
remove the thermostat housing. Press the
tensioner against the spring tension and
tighten the pivot bolt to retain the tensioner in
the released position.5On models from mid-1985 (without a
tensioner spring), loosen the timing belt
tensioner bolts (see illustration)and move
the tensioner away from the belt. If necessary
to improve access, remove the thermostat
housing.
6Mark the running direction of the belt if it is
to be re-used, then slip it off the camshaft
sprocket.
7Slacken the crankshaft pulley bolt. Prevent
the crankshaft from turning by engaging top
gear (manual gearbox only) and having an
assistant apply the brake pedal hard, or by
removing the starter motor and jamming the
ring gear teeth with a lever. Alternatively, if the
pulley has peripheral bolt holes, screw in a
couple of bolts and use a lever between them
to jam it. Do not allow the crankshaft to turn
very far, or piston/valve contact may occur.
8Remove the bolt and washer and withdraw
the pulley. If the pulley will not come off easily,
refit the bolt part way and use a puller (see
illustration). A puller will almost certainly be
required on fuel-injection models.
9Remove the guide washer from in front of
the crankshaft sprocket, then remove the
timing belt (see illustration). Do not kink it or
get oil on it if it is to be re-used.
10If desired, the sprocket can be removed as
follows, otherwise proceed to paragraph 21.
11Remove the crankshaft sprocket, refitting
the bolt part way and using a puller if
necessary (see illustration).
12Unscrew the auxiliary shaft sprocket bolt
while holding the sprocket stationary with a
screwdriver inserted through one of the holes.
19Timing belt and sprockets -
removal and refitting
2A¥12SOHC engines
19.3 TDC pointer on camshaft sprocket
backplate aligned with indentation on
cylinder head19.5 Timing belt tensioner bolts (arrowed) -
models from mid-1985
19.8 Using a puller to remove a pressed
type crankshaft pulley
19.4 Loosening the timing belt tensioner
spring bolt using a splined socket - models
up to mid-1985

anti-clockwise (No 1 cylinder at 60¼ BTDC)
(see illustration).
29The belt tension should now be checked
by applying Ford tension gauge, tool No 21-
113 to the longest belt run. Desired gauge
readings are:
Used belt - 4 to 5
New belt - 10 to 11
If the tension gauge is not available, a rough
guide is that the belt tension is correct when
the belt can be twisted 90¼ in the middle of the
longest run with the fingers, using moderate
pressure (see illustration). In this case, the
vehicle should be taken to a Ford dealer so
that the belt tension can be checked using the
special gauge at the earliest opportunity.
30If adjustment of belt tension is necessary,
turn the crankshaft clockwise to bring No 1
cylinder to TDC, then slacken the tensionerbolts and move the tensioner to increase or
decrease the belt tension. Tighten the
tensioner bolts to the specified torque.
31Turn the crankshaft 90¼ clockwise past
TDC, then anti-clockwise back to the 60¼
BTDC position (No 1 cylinder at 60¼ BTDC).
Check the belt tension again.
32Repeat the procedure given in paragraphs
30 and 31 until the belt tension is correct.
33Tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt to the
specified torque, preventing the crankshaft
from turning as described in paragraph 7 (see
illustration).
34Refit the timing cover and tighten its bolts.
35If the engine is in the vehicle, reverse the
operations described in paragraph 1.
36When the engine is next started, check
the ignition timing is correct.Note: Refer to the warning in Section 8 and
the note at the beginning of Section 21 before
proceeding.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Drain the cooling system.
3Disconnect the coolant hose from the
thermostat housing.
4Disconnect the wiring from the temperature
gauge sender.
5Disconnect the HT leads from the spark
plugs and from the clips on the camshaft
cover and remove the spark plugs.
6On carburettor models, remove the air
cleaner.
7The cylinder head can be removed either
with or without the manifolds. If desired, the
inlet manifold can be unbolted and moved to
one side, leaving the wires, hoses, pipes and
cables connected, but care must be taken not
to strain any of the wires, hoses, pipes or
cables.
8Unscrew the three securing nuts and
disconnect the exhaust downpipe from the
manifold flange. Recover the gasket.
9Disconnect the coolant hose from the clip
on the exhaust manifold hot air shroud, and if
desired, remove the exhaust manifold.
10If the inlet manifold is to be removed with
the cylinder head, disconnect all relevant
20Cylinder head - removal and
refitting (engine in vehicle)
2A¥14SOHC engines
19.33 Holding a pressed type crankshaft
pulley with two bolts and a lever while
tightening the bolt19.29 Twisting the timing belt to assess its
tension
19.28 Timing belt tension checking sequence - models from mid-1985
A No 1 cylinder at TDCB No 1 cylinder at 60¡BTDC for
checkingC Return No 1 cylinder to TDC for
adjustment

wires, hoses, pipes and cables, otherwise,
unbolt the manifold and move it to one side,
ensuring that it is adequately supported.
11If not already done, unclip any wires and
hoses from the camshaft cover, noting their
locations for use when refitting, and on fuel
injection models unbolt the bracing strut
securing the inlet manifold to the right-hand
side of the cylinder head.
12If desired, remove the thermostat and
housing, and the temperature gauge sender.
13Proceed as described in Section 21 for
cylinder head removal.
Refitting
14With the cylinder head refitted as
described in Section 21, proceed as follows.
15Where applicable, refit the temperature
gauge sender and the thermostat and
housing.
16Refit the manifolds and/or reconnect all
wires, hoses, pipes and cables, as applicable.
17Reconnect the exhaust downpipe to the
manifold, using a new gasket.
18Refit the coolant hose to the clip on the
exhaust manifold hot air shroud.
19Refit the spark plugs and reconnect the
HT leads.
20Reconnect the temperature gauge sender
wiring.
21Reconnect the coolant hoses to the
thermostat housing.
22Fill the cooling system.
23If not already done, refit any hoses and
wires to the camshaft cover, as noted during
removal, and on fuel injection models refit the
inlet manifold bracing strut. If splined type
cylinder head bolts have been used, leave
these operations until the bolts have been
finally tightened after running the engine.
24Refit the air cleaner on carburettor
models.
25Reconnect the battery negative lead.
26If splined type cylinder head bolts have
been used, start the engine and run it at 1000
rpm for 15 minutes, then stop the engine,
remove the air cleaner and the camshaft cover
as described previously, and finally tighten the
cylinder head bolts to the fourth stage (see
Specifications). Refit the camshaft cover on
completion, then refit any hoses and wires,
and on fuel injection models the inlet manifold
bracing strut. Refit the air cleaner.Note: Up to early 1984, splined type cylinder
head bolts were used, and from early 1984,
size T55 Torx bolts were used. Torx type bolts
must always be renewed after slackening. The
two types of bolts are interchangeable, but
only in complete sets - the two types must not
be mixed on the same engine. A suitable
special socket will be required for removal of
the bolts, and a new cylinder head gasket
must be used when refitting.
Removal
1With the manifolds removed, proceed as
follows.
2Remove the timing belt.
3Where applicable, disconnect the breather
hose from the camshaft cover.
4Unscrew the ten securing bolts and remove
the camshaft cover and gasket. Take care not
to lose the spacer plates which fit under the
bolt heads, where applicable.
5Using the relevant special socket, unscrew
the ten cylinder head bolts half a turn at a time
in the reverse order to that shown for
tightening.
6With the bolts removed, lift the cylinder
head from the block. If the cylinder head is
stuck, tap it free with a wooden mallet. Place
the cylinder head on blocks of wood to
prevent damage to the valves.
7Recover the gasket.
Refitting
8Commence refitting as follows.
9With the cylinder head supported on blocks
of wood, check and if necessary adjust thevalve clearances. This work is easier to carry
out on the bench rather than in the vehicle.
10Turn the crankshaft so that No 1 piston is
approximately 20 mm (0.8 in) before TDC.
This precaution will prevent any damage to
open valves.
11Make sure that the mating faces of the
cylinder block and cylinder head are perfectly
clean, then locate the new gasket on the
block making sure that all the internal holes
are aligned (see illustration). Do not use
jointing compound.
12Turn the camshaft so that the TDC pointer
on the camshaft sprocket backplate is aligned
with the indentation on the front of the
cylinder head.
13Lower the cylinder head onto the gasket.
The help of an assistant will ensure that the
gasket is not dislodged.
14Lightly oil the cylinder head bolt threads
and heads, then insert the bolts into their
locations in the cylinder head. Note that if the
original bolts were of the Torx type, new bolts
must be used when refitting.
15Using the relevant special socket, tighten
the bolts in the correct sequence (see
illustration)to the stages given in the
Specifications. Note that the bolt tightening
stages are different for splined and Torx type
bolts. If splined type bolts are used, they must
be finally tightened to the fourth stage after
the engine has been run for 15 minutes (see
Specifications).
16Check the condition of the camshaft
cover gasket and renew if necessary. Fit the
gasket to the camshaft cover, ensuring that
the locating tabs and dovetails are correctly
located, then refit the camshaft cover and
tighten the securing bolts in the order shown
(see Chapter 1, Section 23), ensuring that the
spacer plates are in position under the bolt
heads, where applicable.
17Where applicable, reconnect the breather
hose to the camshaft cover.
18Refit the timing belt.
21Cylinder head - removal and
refitting (engine removed)
SOHC engines 2A¥15
2A
21.15 Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence
21.11 Fitting a new cylinder head gasket
Tap a stuck cylinder head
free with a wooden mallet.
Do not insert a lever into the
head joint as this may
damage the mating faces.

3Clean the oil seal housing, then drive in a
new seal using a suitable metal tube or
socket. Make sure that the seal lip faces into
the engine and lightly smear the lip with clean
engine oil.
4Refit the engine adapter plate and the
flywheel/driveplate.
Note: New gaskets and sealing strips will be
required for refitting, and sealing compound
will be required to coat the gasket faces.
Removal
1If the engine is in the vehicle, proceed as
follows, otherwise proceed to paragraph 12.
2Disconnect the battery negative lead.3Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of
the vehicle and support on axle stands (see
ÒJacking and Vehicle SupportÓ).
4Drain the engine oil into a container.
5Remove the starter motor, if necessary.
6Unscrew the nuts or bolts, as applicable,
securing the engine mountings to the
crossmember.
7Working in the engine compartment,
unscrew the bolt securing the intermediate
shaft to the steering column, swivel the clamp
plate to one side, and disconnect the
intermediate shaft.
8Where applicable, detach the brake lines
from the crossmember.
9Support the engine using a hoist, or a bar
and blocks of wood resting on the suspension
turrets (see illustrations). Attach the lifting
tackle to the engine lifting brackets on the
cylinder head. If using a support bar, the
engine may be lifted slightly by using the baras a lever before resting it on the wooden
blocks.
10Support the front crossmember with a
trolley jack, then unscrew the bolts securing
the crossmember to the underbody (see
illustration).
11Lower the crossmember just enough to
give sufficient clearance to remove the sump
(see illustrations).
12Unscrew the twenty-three securing bolts
and withdraw the sump (see illustration). If
the sump is stuck, carefully tap it sideways to
free it. Do not prise between the mating faces.
Note that if the engine has been removed, it is
preferable to keep the engine upright until the
sump has been removed to prevent sludge
from entering the engine internals.
13Recover the gaskets and sealing strips.
14Thoroughly clean the mating faces of the
cylinder block and sump.
Refitting
15Commence refitting by applying sealing
compound (available from a Ford dealer) to
the corners of the front and rear rubber
sealing strip locations in the cylinder block,
then press the sealing strips into the grooves
in the rear main bearing cap and the
crankshaft front oil seal housing (see
illustrations).
16Apply a little sealing compound to the
mating face of the cylinder block, then place
the sump gaskets in position, ensuring that
the end tabs locate correctly beneath the
rubber sealing strips (see illustration).
17Locate the sump on the gaskets and
loosely fit the securing bolts.
29Sump - removal and refitting
2A¥20SOHC engines
29.9a Make up wooden blocks to fit the
front suspension turrets and support a
metal bar . . .29.10 Unscrew the front crossmember
securing bolts
29.15b . . . then fit the rubber sealing strips29.15a Apply sealing compound . . .29.12 Unscrew the securing bolts and
withdraw the sump
29.11b . . . to give sufficient clearance for
sump removal29.11a Lower the suspension . . .
29.9b . . . which will support the engine

18Tighten the bolts in the correct sequence
(see illustration)noting the two stages given
in the Specifications. Tighten to the first stage
in a clockwise sequence starting at point ÒAÓ,
then tighten to the second stage in a
clockwise sequence starting at point ÒBÓ.
Tighten to the third stage after the engine has
been running for twenty minutes.
19If the engine is in the vehicle proceed as
follows.
20Carefully lift the crossmember with the
jack, then refit the securing bolts and tighten
to the specified torque.
21Withdraw the jack, then lower the engine
and remove the lifting tackle.
22Where applicable, refit the brake lines to
the crossmember.
23Ensure that the front wheels are pointing
straight ahead and that the steering wheel is
centred, then reconnect the intermediate shaft
to the steering column. Secure the clamp
plate with the bolt.
24Refit the engine mounting bolts andtighten to the specified torque.
25Refit the starter motor.
26Lower the vehicle to the ground.
27Ensure that the sump drain plug is fitted,
then fill the engine with the correct quantity
and grade of oil. If necessary, renew the oil
filter before filling the engine with oil.
28Reconnect the battery negative lead.
29Start the engine and check for leaks
around the sump, and where applicable the oil
filter. When the engine is started, there may
be a delay in the extinguishing of the oil
pressure warning lamp while the system
pressurises.
30Run the engine for twenty minutes then
stop the engine and tighten the sump bolts to
the third stage given in the Specifications,
starting at the point ÒAÓ shown and working
clockwise.
31Check the oil level.
32Dispose of any old engine oil safely. Do
not pour it down a drain - this is illegal and
causes pollution.
Removal
1Remove the sump.
2Unscrew the bolt securing the pick-up tube
and strainer to the cylinder block (see
illustration).
3Using a suitable splined socket, unscrew
the two securing bolts and withdraw the oil
pump and strainer (see illustration).
4If desired, the hexagon-shaped driveshaft
can be withdrawn, but note which way roundit is fitted (see illustration). The driveshaft
engages with the lower end of the distributor
driveshaft.
5Thoroughly clean the mating faces of the oil
pump and cylinder block.
Refitting
6Commence refitting by inserting the oil
pump driveshaft into the cylinder block in its
previously noted position.
7Prime the pump by injecting oil into it and
turning it by hand.
8Fit the pump, insert the securing bolts, and
tighten them to the specified torque.
9Fit the pick-up tube securing bolt and
tighten it.
10Refit the sump.
Note: A new pressure relief valve plug and
pick-up tube gasket will be required for
reassembly.
Dismantling
1If oil pump wear is suspected, check the
cost and availability of new parts and the cost
of a new pump. Examine the pump as
described in this Section and then decide
whether renewal or repair is the best course of
action.
2Unbolt the pick-up tube and strainer.
Recover the gasket.
3Unscrew the three securing bolts and
remove the oil pump cover (see illustration).
31Oil pump - dismantling,
inspection and reassembly
30Oil pump - removal and
refitting
SOHC engines 2A¥21
2A
30.2 Unscrewing the oil pick-up tube
securing bolt
30.4 Withdrawing the oil pump driveshaft30.3 Unscrewing an oil pump securing bolt
29.18 Sump bolt tightening sequence -
refer to text29.16 Locate the sump gasket end tabs
beneath the rubber sealing strips
31.3 Exploded view of the oil pump
A Body
B Outer rotor
C Inner rotor
D Cover
E Strainer
F Pick-up tube
G Gasket
H Pressure relief valve