light GMC CANYON 2009 Repair Manual

Driving at Night
Night driving is more dangerous than day driving
because some drivers are likely to be impaired — by
alcohol or drugs, with night vision problems, or by fatigue.
Night driving tips include:
Drive defensively.
Do not drink and drive.
Reduce headlamp glare by adjusting the inside
rearview mirror.
Slow down and keep more space between you and
other vehicles because headlamps can only light up
so much road ahead.
Watch for animals.
When tired, pull off the road.
Do not wear sunglasses.
Avoid staring directly into approaching headlamps.
Keep the windshield and all glass on your vehicle
clean — inside and out.
Keep your eyes moving, especially during turns or
curves.
No one can see as well at night as in the daytime.
But, as we get older, these differences increase.
A 50-year-old driver might need at least twice as much
light to see the same thing at night as a 20-year-old.
4-25

Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads
Rain and wet roads can reduce vehicle traction and
affect your ability to stop and accelerate. Always drive
slower in these types of driving conditions and avoid
driving through large puddles and deep-standing or
owing water.
{CAUTION:
Wet brakes can cause crashes. They might not
work as well in a quick stop and could cause pulling
to one side. You could lose control of the vehicle.
After driving through a large puddle of water or a
car/vehicle wash, lightly apply the brake pedal until
the brakes work normally.
Flowing or rushing water creates strong forces.
Driving through owing water could cause your
vehicle to be carried away. If this happens, you and
other vehicle occupants could drown. Do not ignore
police warnings and be very cautious about trying to
drive through owing water.
Hydroplaning
Hydroplaning is dangerous. Water can build up under
your vehicle’s tires so they actually ride on the water.
This can happen if the road is wet enough and you are
going fast enough. When your vehicle is hydroplaning,
it has little or no contact with the road.
There is no hard and fast rule about hydroplaning.
The best advice is to slow down when the road is wet.
Other Rainy Weather Tips
Besides slowing down, other wet weather driving tips
include:
Allow extra following distance.
Pass with caution.
Keep windshield wiping equipment in good shape.
Keep the windshield washer uid reservoir lled.
Have good tires with proper tread depth. SeeTires
on page 5-54.
Turn off cruise control.
4-26

To save fuel, run the engine for only short periods as
needed to warm the vehicle and then shut the engine off
and close the window most of the way to save heat.
Repeat this until help arrives but only when you
feel really uncomfortable from the cold. Moving about to
keep warm also helps.
If it takes some time for help to arrive, now and then
when you run the engine, push the accelerator pedal
slightly so the engine runs faster than the idle speed.
This keeps the battery charged to restart the vehicle
and to signal for help with the headlamps. Do this as
little as possible to save fuel.
If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand,
Mud, Ice, or Snow
Slowly and cautiously spin the wheels to free the
vehicle when stuck in sand, mud, ice, or snow.
SeeRocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out on page 4-32.If the vehicle has a traction system, it can often help to
free a stuck vehicle. Refer to the vehicle’s traction system
in the Index. If stuck too severely for the traction system
to free the vehicle, turn the traction system off and use
the rocking method.
{CAUTION:
If you let your vehicle’s tires spin at high speed,
they can explode, and you or others could be
injured. The vehicle can overheat, causing an
engine compartment re or other damage. Spin the
wheels as little as possible and avoid going above
35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.
For information about using tire chains on the vehicle,
seeTire Chains on page 5-76.
4-31

Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out
Turn the steering wheel left and right to clear the area
around the front wheels. For four-wheel drive vehicles,
shift into 4HI. Turn off any traction system. Shift back and
forth between R (Reverse) and a forward gear, or with a
manual transmission, between 1 (First) or 2 (Second) and
R (Reverse), spinning the wheels as little as possible.
To prevent transmission wear, wait until the wheels stop
spinning before shifting gears. Release the accelerator
pedal while shifting, and press lightly on the accelerator
pedal when the transmission is in gear. Slowly spinning
the wheels in the forward and reverse directions causes a
rocking motion that could free the vehicle. If that does not
get the vehicle out after a few tries, it might need to be
towed out. Recovery hooks can be used, if the vehicle
has them. If the vehicle does need to be towed out, see
Towing Your Vehicle on page 4-40.
Recovery Hooks
{CAUTION:
These hooks, when used, are under a lot of force.
Always pull the vehicle straight out. Never pull on
the hooks at a sideways angle. The hooks could
break off and you or others could be injured from
the chain or cable snapping back.
4-32

{CAUTION:
Fuel can spray out on you if you open the fuel
cap too quickly. If you spill fuel and then something
ignites it, you could be badly burned. This spray can
happen if the tank is nearly full, and is more likely in
hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for
any hiss noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all
the way.
Be careful not to spill fuel. Do not top off or overll the
tank and wait a few seconds after you have nished
pumping before removing the nozzle. Clean fuel
from painted surfaces as soon as possible.
SeeWashing Your Vehicle on page 5-103.
When replacing the fuel cap, turn it clockwise until it
clicks. Make sure the cap is fully installed. The diagnostic
system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or
improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate
into the atmosphere. If the fuel cap is not properlyinstalled, the FUEL CAP message appears on the Driver
Information Center (DIC) and the check engine light will
be lit on the instrument panel cluster. SeeDIC Warnings
and Messages on page 3-38andMalfunction Indicator
Lamp on page 3-30for more information.
{CAUTION:
If a re starts while you are refueling, do not
remove the nozzle. Shut off the ow of fuel by
shutting off the pump or by notifying the station
attendant. Leave the area immediately.
Notice:If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get
the right type. Your dealer/retailer can get one
for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not t
properly. This may cause the malfunction indicator
lamp to light and may damage the fuel tank and
emissions system. SeeMalfunction Indicator Lamp
on page 3-30.
5-9

Brake Wear
This vehicle has front disc brakes and rear drum brakes.
Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make
a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads
are worn and new pads are needed. The sound
can come and go or be heard all the time the vehicle is
moving, except when applying the brake pedal rmly.
{CAUTION:
The brake wear warning sound means that soon
the brakes will not work well. That could lead to an
accident. When the brake wear warning sound is
heard, have the vehicle serviced.
Notice:Continuing to drive with worn-out brake
pads could result in costly brake repair.
Some driving conditions or climates can cause a brake
squeal when the brakes are rst applied or lightly applied.
This does not mean something is wrong with the brakes.Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help
prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect
brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in
the proper sequence to torque specications in
Capacities and Specifications on page 5-115.
Rear drum brakes do not have wear indicators, but if you
ever hear a rear brake rubbing noise, have the rear brake
linings inspected immediately. Also, the rear brake drums
should be removed and inspected each time the tires are
removed for rotation or changing. When you have the
front brake pads replaced, have the rear brakes
inspected, too.
Brake linings should always be replaced as complete
axle sets.
Brake Pedal Travel
See your dealer/retailer if the brake pedal does not
return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in
pedal travel. This could be a sign that brake service
might be required.
Brake Adjustment
Every brake stop, the brakes adjust for wear.
5-38

Jump Starting
If the vehicle battery has run down, you may want to use
another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your
vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely.
{CAUTION:
Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous
because:
They contain acid that can burn you.
They contain gas that can explode or ignite.
They contain enough electricity to burn you.
If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or
all of these things can hurt you.
Notice:Ignoring these steps could result in costly
damage to your vehicle that would not be covered
by your warranty.
Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it
will not work, and it could damage your vehicle.
1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt
battery with a negative ground system.Notice:If the other vehicle’s system is not a 12-volt
system with a negative ground, both vehicles can
be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems
with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle.
2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables
can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching
each other. If they are, it could cause a ground
connection you do not want. You would not be able
to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding
could damage the electrical systems.
To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set
the parking brake rmly on both vehicles involved in
the jump start procedure. Put an automatic
transmission in P (Park) or a manual transmission
in Neutral before setting the parking brake.
If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure the
transfer case is not in Neutral.
Notice:If you leave the radio or other accessories
on during the jump starting procedure, they could be
damaged. The repairs would not be covered by the
warranty. Always turn off the radio and other
accessories when jump starting the vehicle.
3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug
unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette
lighter or the accessory power outlets. Turn off
the radio and all lamps that are not needed.
This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries.
And it could save the radio!
5-40

4. Open the hoods and locate the positive (+) and
negative (−) terminal locations on the other vehicle.
Your vehicle has a remote positive (+) and a remote
negative (−) jump starting terminal. SeeEngine
Compartment Overview on page 5-12for more
information on the terminal locations.
{CAUTION:
Using a match near a battery can cause battery
gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this,
and some have been blinded. Use a ashlight if
you need more light.
Be sure the batteries have enough water. You
do not need to add water to the ACDelco
®battery
(or batteries) installed in your new vehicle. But if a
battery has ller caps, be sure the right amount of
uid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of
that rst. If you do not, explosive gas could be
present.
Battery uid contains acid that can burn you. Do not
get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes
or on your skin, ush the place with water and get
medical help immediately.
{CAUTION:
Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you
badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts
once the engine is running.
5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or
missing insulation. If they do, you could get a
shock. The vehicles could be damaged too.
Before you connect the cables, here are some
basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to
positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the
vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy,
unpainted metal engine part or to a remote
negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one.
Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−)oryou
will get a short that would damage the battery
and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the
negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on
the dead battery because this can cause sparks.
5-41

Curb Weight:The weight of a motor vehicle with
standard and optional equipment including the
maximum capacity of fuel, oil, and coolant,
but without passengers and cargo.
DOT Markings
:A code molded into the sidewall
of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance
with the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT)
motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code
includes the Tire Identication Number (TIN),
an alphanumeric designator which can also identify
the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand,
and date of production.
GVWR
:Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. SeeLoading
the Vehicle on page 4-33.
GAWR FRT
:Gross Axle Weight Rating for the
front axle. SeeLoading the Vehicle on page 4-33.
GAWR RR
:Gross Axle Weight Rating for the
rear axle. SeeLoading the Vehicle on page 4-33.
Intended Outboard Sidewall
:The side of an
asymmetrical tire, that must always face outward
when mounted on a vehicle.
Kilopascal (kPa)
:The metric unit for air pressure.Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire
:A tire used on light
duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger
vehicles.
Load Index
:An assigned number ranging from
1 to 279 that corresponds to the load carrying
capacity of a tire.
Maximum Ination Pressure
:The maximum air
pressure to which a cold tire can be inated.
The maximum air pressure is molded onto the
sidewall.
Maximum Load Rating
:The load rating for a tire
at the maximum permissible ination pressure
for that tire.
Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight
:The sum of
curb weight, accessory weight, vehicle capacity
weight, and production options weight.
Normal Occupant Weight
:The number of
occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied
by 150 lbs (68 kg). SeeLoading the Vehicle on
page 4-33.
Occupant Distribution
:Designated seating
positions.
5-59

Outward Facing Sidewall:The side of an
asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that
faces outward when mounted on a vehicle. The
side of the tire that contains a whitewall, bears
white lettering, or bears manufacturer, brand,
and/or model name molding that is higher or deeper
than the same moldings on the other sidewall of
the tire.
Passenger (P-Metric) Tire
:A tire used on
passenger cars and some light duty trucks and
multipurpose vehicles.
Recommended Ination Pressure
:Vehicle
manufacturer’s recommended tire ination pressure
as shown on the tire placard. SeeInflation - Tire
Pressure on page 5-61andLoading the Vehicle on
page 4-33.
Radial Ply Tire
:A pneumatic tire in which the
ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at
90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.
Rim
:A metal support for a tire and upon which
the tire beads are seated.
Sidewall
:The portion of a tire between the tread
and the bead.
Speed Rating
:An alphanumeric code assigned to
a tire indicating the maximum speed at which a
tire can operate.Traction
:The friction between the tire and the
road surface. The amount of grip provided.
Tread
:The portion of a tire that comes into
contact with the road.
Treadwear Indicators
:Narrow bands, sometimes
called wear bars, that show across the tread of
a tire when only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) of tread
remains. SeeWhen It Is Time for New Tires on
page 5-69.
UTQGS (Uniform Tire Quality Grading
Standards)
:A tire information system that
provides consumers with ratings for a tire’s
traction, temperature, and treadwear. Ratings
are determined by tire manufacturers using
government testing procedures. The ratings are
molded into the sidewall of the tire. SeeUniform
Tire Quality Grading on page 5-72.
Vehicle Capacity Weight
:The number of
designated seating positions multiplied by 150 lbs
(68 kg) plus the rated cargo load. SeeLoading
the Vehicle on page 4-33.
Vehicle Maximum Load on the Tire
:Load on an
individual tire due to curb weight, accessory weight,
occupant weight, and cargo weight.
5-60