steering wheel GMC CANYON 2010 Owner's Guide

Approaching a Hill
When you approach a hill, decide if it is too steep to
climb, descend, or cross. Steepness can be hard
to judge. On a very small hill, for example, there may be
a smooth, constant incline with only a small change in
elevation where you can easily see all the way to
the top. On a large hill, the incline may get steeper as
you near the top, but you might not see this because the
crest of the hill is hidden by bushes, grass, or shrubs.
Consider this as you approach a hill:
•Is there a constant incline, or does the hill get
sharply steeper in places?
•Is there good traction on the hillside, or will the
surface cause tire slipping?
•Is there a straight path up or down the hill so you
will not have to make turning maneuvers?
•Are there obstructions on the hill that can block your
path, such as boulders, trees, logs, or ruts?
•What is beyond the hill? Is there a cliff, an
embankment, a drop-off, a fence? Get out and walk
the hill if you do not know. It is the smart way to
find out.
•Is the hill simply too rough? Steep hills often have
ruts, gullies, troughs, and exposed rocks because
they are more susceptible to the effects of erosion.
Driving Uphill
Once you decide it is safe to drive up the hill:
•Use a low gear and get a firm grip on the steering
wheel.
•Get a smooth start up the hill and try to maintain
speed. Not using more power than needed can
avoid spinning the wheels or sliding.
{WARNING:
Turning or driving across steep hills can be
dangerous. You could lose traction, slide
sideways, and possibly roll over. You could be
seriously injured or killed. When driving up hills,
always try to go straight up.
•Try to drive straight up the hill if at all possible.
If the path twists and turns, you might want to
find another route.
•Ease up on the speed as you approach the top of
the hill.
5-18

•Attach a flag to the vehicle to be more visible to
approaching traffic on trails or hills.
•Sound the horn as you approach the top of the hill
to let opposing traffic know you are there.
•Use headlamps even during the day to make the
vehicle more visible to oncoming traffic.
{WARNING:
Driving to the top (crest) of a hill at full speed can
cause an accident. There could be a drop-off,
embankment, cliff, or even another vehicle. You
could be seriously injured or killed. As you near
the top of a hill, slow down and stay alert.If the vehicle stalls, or is about to stall, and you cannot
make it up the hill:
•Push the brake pedal to stop the vehicle and keep
it from rolling backwards and apply the parking
brake.
•If the engine is still running, shift the transmission to
R (Reverse), release the parking brake, and slowly
back down the hill in R (Reverse).
•If the engine has stopped running, you need to
restart it. With the brake pedal pressed and the
parking brake still applied, shift the automatic
transmission to P (Park) or the manual transmission
to Neutral and restart the engine. Then, shift to
R (Reverse), release the parking brake, and slowly
back down the hill as straight as possible in
R (Reverse).
•While backing down the hill, put your left hand on the
steering wheel at the 12 o’clock position so you can
tell if the wheels are straight and can maneuver as
you back down. It is best to back down the hill with
the wheels straight rather than in the left or right
direction. Turning the wheel too far to the left or right
will increase the possibility of a rollover.
5-19

Stalling on an Incline
{WARNING:
Getting out on the downhill (low) side of a vehicle
stopped across an incline is dangerous. If the
vehicle rolls over, you could be crushed or killed.
Always get out on the uphill (high) side of the
vehicle and stay well clear of the rollover path.
If the vehicle stalls when crossing an incline, be sure you,
and any passengers, get out on the uphill side, even if the
door there is harder to open. If you get out on the downhill
side and the vehicle starts to roll over, you will be right in
its path.
If you have to walk down the slope, stay out of the path
the vehicle will take if it does roll over.
Driving in Mud, Sand, Snow, or Ice
When you drive in mud, snow, or sand, the wheels do not
get good traction. Acceleration is not as quick, turning is
more difficult, and braking distances are longer.
It is best to use a low gear when in mud — the deeper
the mud, the lower the gear. In really deep mud,
keep the vehicle moving so it does not get stuck.When driving on sand, wheel traction changes. On
loosely packed sand, such as on beaches or sand
dunes, the tires will tend to sink into the sand. This
affects steering, accelerating, and braking. Drive
at a reduced speed and avoid sharp turns or abrupt
maneuvers.
Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst tire traction.
On these surfaces, it is very easy to lose control.
On wet ice, for example, the traction is so poor that you
will have difficulty accelerating. And, if the vehicle
does get moving, poor steering and difficult braking can
cause it to slide out of control.
{WARNING:
Driving on frozen lakes, ponds, or rivers can be
dangerous. Underwater springs, currents under
the ice, or sudden thaws can weaken the ice. Your
vehicle could fall through the ice and you and your
passengers could drown. Drive your vehicle on
safe surfaces only.
5-23

Driving in Water
{WARNING:
Driving through rushing water can be dangerous.
Deep water can sweep your vehicle downstream
and you and your passengers could drown. If it is
only shallow water, it can still wash away the
ground from under your tires, and you could lose
traction and roll the vehicle over. Do not drive
through rushing water.
Heavy rain can mean flash flooding, and flood waters
demand extreme caution.
Find out how deep the water is before driving through it.
Do not try it if it is deep enough to cover the wheel
hubs, axles, or exhaust pipe — you probably will not get
through. Deep water can damage the axle and other
vehicle parts.If the water is not too deep, drive slowly through it.
At faster speeds, water splashes on the ignition system
and the vehicle can stall. Stalling can also occur if
you get the tailpipe under water. If the tailpipe is under
water, you will never be able to start the engine.
When going through water, remember that when the
brakes get wet, it might take longer to stop. SeeDriving
in Rain and on Wet Roads on page 5-26.
After Off-Road Driving
Remove any brush or debris that has collected on the
underbody, chassis, or under the hood. These
accumulations can be a fire hazard.
After operation in mud or sand, have the brake linings
cleaned and checked. These substances can cause
glazing and uneven braking. Check the body structure,
steering, suspension, wheels, tires, and exhaust system
for damage and check the fuel lines and cooling system
for any leakage.
The vehicle requires more frequent service due to
off-road use. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule for
additional information.
5-24

Winter Driving
Driving on Snow or Ice
Drive carefully when there is snow or ice between the
tires and the road, creating less traction or grip. Wet ice
can occur at about 32°F (0°C) when freezing rain
begins to fall, resulting in even less traction. Avoid
driving on wet ice or in freezing rain until roads can be
treated with salt or sand.
Drive with caution, whatever the condition. Accelerate
gently so traction is not lost. Accelerating too quickly
causes the wheels to spin and makes the surface under
the tires slick, so there is even less traction.
Try not to break the fragile traction. If you accelerate too
fast, the drive wheels will spin and polish the surface
under the tires even more.TheStabiliTrak
®System on page 5-6improves the
ability to accelerate on slippery roads, but slow down
and adjust your driving to the road conditions. When
driving through deep snow, it might be beneficial to turn
off the traction control part of the StabiliTrak
®System
to help maintain vehicle motion at lower speeds.
Once beyond the deep snow, push the StabiliTrak
®
button again to turn traction control back on.
TheAntilock Brake System (ABS) on page 5-5improves
vehicle stability during hard stops on a slippery roads,
but apply the brakes sooner than when on dry
pavement.
Allow greater following distance on any slippery road
and watch for slippery spots. Icy patches can occur on
otherwise clear roads in shaded areas. The surface
of a curve or an overpass can remain icy when
the surrounding roads are clear. Avoid sudden steering
maneuvers and braking while on ice.
Turn off cruise control, if equipped, on slippery surfaces.
5-29

Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out
Turn the steering wheel left and right to clear the
area around the front wheels. For four-wheel drive
vehicles, shift into 4HI. Turn off any traction system.
Shift back and forth between R (Reverse) and a forward
gear, or with a manual transmission, between 1 (First)
or 2 (Second) and R (Reverse), spinning the wheels
as little as possible. To prevent transmission wear, wait
until the wheels stop spinning before shifting gears.
Release the accelerator pedal while shifting, and press
lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transmission
is in gear. Slowly spinning the wheels in the forward and
reverse directions causes a rocking motion that could
free the vehicle. If that does not get the vehicle out after
a few tries, it might need to be towed out. Recovery
hooks can be used, if the vehicle has them. If the vehicle
does need to be towed out, seeTowing Your Vehicle
on page 5-41.
Recovery Hooks
{WARNING:
These hooks, when used, are under a lot of force.
Always pull the vehicle straight out. Never pull on
the hooks at a sideways angle. The hooks could
break off and you or others could be injured from
the chain or cable snapping back.
5-32

Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as
you would when driving the vehicle without a trailer. This
can help to avoid situations that require heavy braking
and sudden turns.
Passing
More passing distance is needed when towing a trailer.
Because the rig is longer, it is necessary to go much
farther beyond the passed vehicle before returning to
the lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, move that hand
to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your
hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible,
have someone guide you.
Making Turns
Notice:Making very sharp turns while trailering
could cause the trailer to come in contact with the
vehicle. The vehicle could be damaged. Avoid
making very sharp turns while trailering.
When turning with a trailer, make wider turns than
normal. Do this so the trailer will not strike soft shoulders,
curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or
sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.
Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
The arrows on the instrument panel flash whenever
signaling a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the
trailer lamps also flash, telling other drivers the vehicle
is turning, changing lanes or stopping.
When towing a trailer, the arrows on the instrument panel
flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned
out. For this reason you may think other drivers are
seeing the signal when they are not. It is important to
check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still
working.
5-57

Service............................................................6-3
Accessories and Modifications..........................6-3
California Proposition 65 Warning.....................6-4
California Perchlorate Materials Requirements.....6-4
Doing Your Own Service Work.........................6-4
Adding Equipment to the Outside of the
Vehicle......................................................6-5
Fuel................................................................6-5
Gasoline Octane............................................6-5
Gasoline Specifications....................................6-6
California Fuel...............................................6-6
Additives.......................................................6-6
Fuels in Foreign Countries...............................6-7
Filling the Tank..............................................6-8
Filling a Portable Fuel Container.....................6-10
Checking Things Under the Hood....................6-10
Hood Release..............................................6-11
Engine Compartment Overview.......................6-12
Engine Oil...................................................6-15
Engine Oil Life System..................................6-18
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter................................6-20
Automatic Transmission Fluid.........................6-21
Manual Transmission Fluid.............................6-25
Hydraulic Clutch...........................................6-26
Cooling System............................................6-27Engine Coolant.............................................6-29
Engine Overheating.......................................6-35
Engine Fan Noise.........................................6-36
Power Steering Fluid.....................................6-37
Windshield Washer Fluid................................6-38
Brakes........................................................6-39
Battery........................................................6-42
Jump Starting...............................................6-43
Rear Axle.......................................................6-47
Four-Wheel Drive
............................................6-48
Front Axle......................................................6-49
Headlamp Aiming...........................................6-50
Bulb Replacement..........................................6-50
Halogen Bulbs..............................................6-50
Headlamps..................................................6-51
Front Turn Signal, Parking and Daytime
Running Lamps (DRL)................................6-52
Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL).........6-52
Taillamps, Turn Signal, Stoplamps and
Back-up Lamps.........................................6-53
License Plate Lamp......................................6-54
Replacement Bulbs.......................................6-54
Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement..............6-55
Section 6 Service and Appearance Care
6-1

Notice:If your vehicle has a tire size other than
P215/70R16, P235/75R16, P265/70R17, or P235/50R18
use tire chains only where legal and only when
you must. Use chains that are the proper size for
your tires. Install them on the tires of the rear axle.
Do not use chains on the tires of the front axle.
Tighten them as tightly as possible with the ends
securely fastened. Drive slowly and follow the chain
manufacturer’s instructions. If you can hear the
chains contacting your vehicle, stop and retighten
them. If the contact continues, slow down until it
stops. Driving too fast or spinning the wheels with
chains on will damage your vehicle.
If a Tire Goes Flat
It is unusual for a tire to blowout while you are driving,
especially if you maintain your vehicle’s tires properly.
If air goes out of a tire, it is much more likely to leak out
slowly. But if you should ever have a blowout, here
are a few tips about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the flat tire creates a drag that pulls
the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the
accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly.
Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake
to a stop well out of the traffic lane.A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a
skid and may require the same correction you would use
in a skid. In any rear blowout remove your foot from the
accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by
steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be
very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently
brake to a stop, well off the road if possible.
{WARNING:
Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do
maintenance or repairs is dangerous without the
appropriate safety equipment and training. If a jack
is provided with the vehicle, it is designed only for
changing a flat tire. If it is used for anything else,
you or others could be badly injured or killed if the
vehicle slips off the jack. If a jack is provided with
the vehicle, only use it for changing a flat tire.
If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use the
jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.
6-79

•Fluids visual leak check (or every 12 months,
whichever occurs first). A leak in any system must
be repaired and the fluid level checked.
•Engine air cleaner filter inspection (vehicles driven
in dusty conditions only). SeeEngine Air Cleaner/
Filter on page 6-20.
•Brake system inspection (or every 12 months,
whichever occurs first).
MaintenanceII
•Perform all services described in MaintenanceI.
•Steering and suspension inspection. Visual
inspection for damaged, loose, or missing parts
or signs of wear.
•Engine cooling system inspection. Visual inspection
of hoses, pipes, fittings, and clamps and
replacement, if needed.
•Windshield wiper blade inspection for wear, cracking,
or contamination and windshield and wiper blade
cleaning, if contaminated. SeeWindshield and Wiper
Blades on page 6-107. Worn or damaged wiper
blade replacement. SeeWindshield Wiper Blade
Replacement on page 6-55.
•Body hinges and latches, key lock cylinders, and
folding seat hardware lubrication. Lubricate hood
safety lever pivot and prop rod pivot and tailgate
latch bolt, handle assembly pivot points, and hinges.
SeeRecommended Fluids and Lubricants on
page 7-10. More frequent lubrication may be required
when vehicle is exposed to a corrosive environment.
Applying silicone grease on weatherstrips with a
clean cloth makes them last longer, seal better, and
not stick or squeak.
•Restraint system component check. SeeChecking
the Restraint Systems on page 2-81.
•Automatic transmission fluid level check and adding
fluid, if needed. SeeAutomatic Transmission Fluid
on page 6-21.
•Four-wheel drive vehicles: Transfer case fluid level
check and adding fluid, if needed.
•Engine air cleaner filter inspection. SeeEngine Air
Cleaner/Filter on page 6-20.
7-4