steering wheel GMC ENVOY 1999 Owner's Manual

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4-20 Driving Uphill
Once you decide you can safely drive up the hill, you
need to take some special steps.

Use a low gear and get a firm grip on the
steering wheel.

Get a smooth start up the hill and try to maintain
your speed. Don't use more power than you need,
because you don't want your wheels to start spinning
or sliding.

Try to drive straight up the hill if at all possible. If
the path twists and turns, you might want to find
another route.
CAUTION:
Turning or driving across steep hills can be
dangerous. You could lose traction, slide
sideways, and possibly roll over. You could be
seriously injured or killed. When driving up hills,
always try to go straight up.

Ease up on your speed as you approach the top of
the hill.

Attach a flag to the vehicle to make you more visible
to approaching traffic on trails or hills.

Sound the horn as you approach the top of the hill to
let opposing traffic know you're there.

Use your headlamps even during the day. They make
you more visible to oncoming traffic.
CAUTION:
Driving to the top (crest) of a hill at full speed can
cause an accident. There could be a drop
-off,
embankment, cliff, or even another vehicle. You
could be seriously injured or killed. As you near
the top of a hill, slow down and stay alert.
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4-21
Q:What should I do if my vehicle stalls, or is about
to stall, and I can't make it up the hill?
A:If this happens, there are some things you should
do, and there are some things you must not do.
First, here's what you should do:

Push the brake pedal to stop the vehicle and keep it
from rolling backwards. Also, apply the parking brake.

If your engine is still running, shift the transmission
to REVERSE (R), release the parking brake, and
slowly back down the hill in REVERSE (R).

If your engine has stopped running, you'll need to
restart it. With the brake pedal pressed and the
parking brake still applied, shift the transmission to
PARK (P) and restart the engine. Then, shift to
REVERSE (R), release the parking brake, and
slowly back down the hill as straight as possible in
REVERSE (R).

As you are backing down the hill, put your left hand
on the steering wheel at the 12 o'clock position. This
way, you'll be able to tell if your wheels are straight
and maneuver as you back down. It's best that you
back down the hill with your wheels straight rather
than in the left or right direction. Turning the wheel
too far to the left or right will increase the possibility
of a rollover.Here are some things you must not do if you stall, or are
about to stall, when going up a hill.

Never attempt to prevent a stall by shifting into
NEUTRAL (N) to ªrev-upº the engine and regain
forward momentum. This won't work. Your vehicle
will roll backwards very quickly and you could go
out of control.
Instead, apply the regular brake to stop the vehicle. Then
apply the parking brake. Shift to REVERSE (R), release
the parking brake, and slowly back straight down.

Never attempt to turn around if you are about to stall
when going up a hill. If the hill is steep enough to
stall your vehicle, it's steep enough to cause you to
roll over if you turn around. If you can't make it up
the hill, you must back straight down the hill.
Q:Suppose, after stalling, I try to back down the
hill and decide I just can't do it. What should
I do?
A:Set the parking brake, put your transmission in
PARK (P) and turn off the engine. Leave the vehicle
and go get some help. Exit on the uphill side and stay
clear of the path the vehicle would take if it rolled
downhill. Do not shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL
when you leave the vehicle. Leave it in some gear.
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4-25
CAUTION:
Getting out on the downhill (low) side of a vehicle
stopped across an incline is dangerous. If the
vehicle rolls over, you could be crushed or killed.
Always get out on the uphill (high) side of the
vehicle and stay well clear of the rollover path.
Driving in Mud, Sand, Snow or Ice
When you drive in mud, snow or sand, your wheels
won't get good traction. You can't accelerate as quickly,
turning is more difficult, and you'll need longer
braking distances.
It's best to use a low gear when you're in mud
-- the
deeper the mud, the lower the gear. In really deep mud,
the idea is to keep your vehicle moving so you don't
get stuck.When you drive on sand, you'll sense a change in wheel
traction. But it will depend upon how loosely packed the
sand is. On loosely packed sand (as on beaches or sand
dunes) your tires will tend to sink into the sand. This has
an effect on steering, accelerating and braking. You may
want to reduce the air pressure in your tires slightly
when driving on sand. This will improve traction.
Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst tire traction.
On these surfaces, it's very easy to lose control. On wet
ice, for example, the traction is so poor that you will
have difficulty accelerating. And if you do get moving,
poor steering and difficult braking can cause you to slide
out of control.
CAUTION:
Driving on frozen lakes, ponds or rivers can be
dangerous. Underwater springs, currents under
the ice, or sudden thaws can weaken the ice. Your
vehicle could fall through the ice and you and
your passengers could drown. Drive your vehicle
on safe surfaces only.
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4-26 Driving in Water
Light rain causes no special off-road driving problems.
But heavy rain can mean flash flooding, and flood
waters demand extreme caution.
Find out how deep the water is before you drive through
it. If it's deep enough to cover your wheel hubs, axles or
exhaust pipe, don't try it
-- you probably won't get
through. Also, water that deep can damage your axle
and other vehicle parts.
If the water isn't too deep, then drive through it slowly.
At fast speeds, water splashes on your ignition system
and your vehicle can stall. Stalling can also occur if you
get your tailpipe under water. And, as long as your
tailpipe is under water, you'll never be able to start your
engine. When you go through water, remember that
when your brakes get wet, it may take you longer
to stop.
CAUTION:
Driving through rushing water can be dangerous.
Deep water can sweep your vehicle downstream
and you and your passengers could drown. If it's
only shallow water, it can still wash away the
ground from under your tires, and you could lose
traction and roll the vehicle over. Don't drive
through rushing water.
See ªDriving Through Waterº in the Index for more
information on driving through water.
After Off-Road Driving
Remove any brush or debris that has collected on the
underbody, chassis or under the hood. These
accumulations can be a fire hazard.
After operation in mud or sand, have the brake linings
cleaned and checked. These substances can cause
glazing and uneven braking. Check the body structure,
steering, suspension, wheels, tires and exhaust system
for damage. Also, check the fuel lines and cooling
system for any leakage.
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4-37
What's the worst time for this? ªWet ice.º Very cold
snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet
ice can be even more trouble because it may offer the
least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it's about
freezing (32F; 0C) and freezing rain begins to fall.
Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews
can get there.Whatever the condition
-- smooth ice, packed, blowing
or loose snow
-- drive with caution.
Accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction. If
you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and
polish the surface under the tires even more.
Your anti
-lock brakes improve your vehicle's stability
when you make a hard stop on a slippery road. Even
though you have an anti
-lock braking system, you'll
want to begin stopping sooner than you would on dry
pavement. See ªAnti
-Lockº in the Index.

Allow greater following distance on any
slippery road.

Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine
until you hit a spot that's covered with ice. On an
otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in
shaded areas where the sun can't reach: around
clumps of trees, behind buildings or under bridges.
Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass may
remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. If
you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you
are on it. Try not to brake while you're actually on
the ice, and avoid sudden steering maneuvers.
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4-40
Four-Wheel-Drive Vehicles
Use the following procedure to correctly tow your
vehicle on all four wheels:
1. Firmly set the parking brake.
2. Place the transmission in PARK (P).
3. Securely attach the vehicle being towed to the
tow vehicle.4. With the engine running, shift the transfer case to
NEUTRAL. See ªFour
-Wheel Driveº in the Index
for the proper procedure to select the neutral position
for your vehicle.
CAUTION:
Shifting the transfer case into NEUTRAL can
cause your vehicle to roll even if the transmission
is in PARK (P), for an automatic transmission.
You or others could be injured. Make sure the
parking brake is firmly set before you shift the
transfer case into NEUTRAL.
5. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle
being towed is firmly attached to the towing vehicle.
6. Turn the ignition to OFF. The OFF position unlocks
the steering column and reduces battery drain.
Unlocking the steering column will allow the proper
movement of the front wheels and tires
during towing.
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4-51 Passing
You'll need more passing distance up ahead when
you're towing a trailer. And, because you're a good deal
longer, you'll need to go much farther beyond the
passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand
to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your
hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if
possible, have someone guide you.
Making Turns
NOTICE:
Making very sharp turns while trailering could
cause the trailer to come in contact with the
vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid
making very sharp turns while trailering.
When you're turning with a trailer, make wider turns than
normal. Do this so your trailer won't strike soft shoulders,
curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or
sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.
Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
When you tow a trailer, your vehicle has to have extra
wiring and a heavy
-duty turn signal flasher.
The arrows on your instrument panel will flash
whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly
hooked up, the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other
drivers you're about to turn, change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument
panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer
are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you
are seeing your signal when they are not. It's important
to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are
still working.
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5-18
Engine Fan Noise
This vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When
the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide
more air to cool the engine. In most everyday driving
conditions, the clutch is not engaged. This improves fuel
economy and reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle
loading, trailer towing and/or high outside temperatures,
the fan speed increases when the clutch engages. So you
may hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and
should not be mistaken as the transmission slipping or
making extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system
functioning properly. The fan will slow down when
additional cooling is not required and the
clutch disengages.
You may also hear this fan noise when you start the
engine. It will go away as the fan clutch disengages.
If a Tire Goes Flat
It's unusual for a tire to ªblow outº while you're driving,
especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes
out of a tire, it's much more likely to leak out slowly.
But if you should ever have a ªblowout,º here are a few
tips about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that
pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the
accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly.
Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to
a stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a
skid and may require the same correction you'd use in a
skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the
accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by
steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be
very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently
brake to a stop
-- well off the road if possible.
If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your
jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.
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5-31 Rocking Your Vehicle To Get It Out
First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will
clear the area around your front wheels. Shift the
transfer case into 4HI. Then shift back and forth
between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear, spinning the
wheels as little as possible. Release the accelerator pedal
while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator
pedal when the transmission is in gear. By slowly
spinning your wheels in the forward and reverse
directions, you will cause a rocking motion that may
free your vehicle. If that doesn't get you out after a few
tries, you may need to be towed out. Or, you can use
your recovery hooks. If you do need to be towed out, see
ªTowing Your Vehicleº in the Index.
Using the Recovery Hooks
Your vehicle is equipped with recovery hooks. The
recovery hooks are provided at the front of your vehicle.
You may need to use them if you're stuck off
-road and
need to be pulled to some place where you can
continue driving.
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6-
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6-1
Section 6 Service and Appearance Care
Here you will find information about the care of your vehicle. This section begins with service and fuel information,
and then it shows how to check important fluid and lubricant levels. There is also technical information about your
vehicle, and a part devoted to its appearance care.
6
-2 Service
6
-3 Fuel
6
-5 Fuels in Foreign Countries
6
-5 Filling Your Tank
6
-7 Filling a Portable Fuel Container
6
-8 Checking Things Under the Hood
6
-10 Engine Oil
6
-14 Engine Air Cleaner/Filter
6
-15 Automatic Transmission Fluid
6
-18 Rear Axle
6
-19 Four-Wheel Drive
6
-21 Radiator Pressure Cap
6
-21 Thermostat
6
-21 Engine Coolant
6
-24 Power Steering Fluid
6
-25 Windshield Washer Fluid
6
-26 Brakes6
-31 Battery
6
-31 Bulb Replacement
6
-35 Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement
6
-37 Tires
6
-45 Appearance Care
6
-46 Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle
6
-48 Care of Safety Belts
6
-50 Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle
6
-53 GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials
6
-54 Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)
6
-54 Service Parts Identification Label
6
-54 Electrical System
6
-60 Replacement Bulbs
6
-60 Capacities and Specifications
6
-61 Air Conditioning Refrigerants
6
-61 Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts
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