engine GMC ENVOY 2000 Workshop Manual

4-45 Payload
The payload capacity is shown on the Certification/Tire
label. This is the maximum load capacity that your
vehicle can carry. Be sure to include the weight of the
occupants as part of your load. If you added any
accessories or equipment after your vehicle left the
factory, remember to subtract the weight of these things
from the payload. Your dealer can help you with this.
Electronic Level Control
The rear of the vehicle is automatically kept level as you
load or unload your vehicle. However, you should still
not exceed the GVWR or the GAWR.
The ignition has to be on for the level control to work.
The system includes a small electric air compressor and
air
-adjustable rear shock absorbers.
You may hear the compressor operating when you load
or unload your vehicle, and periodically as the system
self
-adjusts. This is normal.The compressor should operate for brief periods of time.
If the sound continues for an extended period of time,
your vehicle needs service. To keep your battery from
being drained, you may want to remove the LD LEV
fuse in the engine compartment fuse block until you can
get your vehicle serviced (see ªFuses and Circuit
Breakersº in the Index).
Using heavier suspension components to get added
durability might not change your weight ratings. Ask
your dealer to help you load your vehicle the right way.
NOTICE:
Your warranty does not cover parts or
components that fail because of overloading.
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4-47
If yours was built with trailering options, as many are,
it's ready for heavier trailers. But trailering is different
than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means
changes in handling, durability and fuel economy.
Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and
it has to be used properly.
That's the reason for this part. In it are many
time
-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules.
Many of these are important for your safety and that of
your passengers. So please read this section carefully
before you pull a trailer.
If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer
If you do, here are some important points:

There are many different laws, including speed limit
restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure
your rig will be legal, not only where you live but
also where you'll be driving. A good source for this
information can be state or provincial police.

Consider using a sway control if your trailer will
weigh 2,000 lbs. (900 kg) or less. You should always
use a sway control if your trailer will weigh more
than 2,000 lbs. (900 kg). You can ask a hitch dealer
about sway controls.
Don't tow a trailer at all during the first 500 miles
(800 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine,
axle or other parts could be damaged.

Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that you
tow a trailer, don't drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and
don't make starts at full throttle. This helps your
engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at the
heavier loads.

You should use THIRD (3) (or, as you need to, a
lower gear) when towing a trailer. Operating your
vehicle in THIRD (3) when towing a trailer will
minimize heat buildup and extend the life of your
transmission. See ªTow/Haul Modeº in the Index.
Three important considerations have to do with weight:

the weight of the trailer,

the weight of the trailer tongue

and the weight on your vehicle's tires.
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4-48
Tow/Haul Mode
The Tow/Haul Mode is a feature that assists when
pulling a heavy trailer. The purpose of the Tow/Haul
Mode is:

Reduce the frequency of shifts when pulling a
heavy trailer.

Provide the same shift feel when pulling a heavy
trailer as when the vehicle is unloaded.

Reduce the need to change throttle positions when
pulling a heavy trailer.
This feature is turned on or off by pressing a button on
the shift lever. When the feature is on, a light on the
instrument panel will illuminate to indicate that the
Tow/Haul Mode has been selected. See ªTow/Haul
Mode Lightº in the Index. The Tow/Haul Mode is
automatically turned off each time the vehicle is started.
The Tow/Haul Mode is most effective when the vehicle
and trailer combined weight is at least 75% of the Gross
Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) and the maximum
trailer weight rating for the vehicle. See ªGross Vehicle
Weight Ratingº and ªTrailer Weightº in the Index.The Tow/Haul Mode for hauling a heavy trailer is most
useful under the following conditions:

When driving through hilly terrain at high speeds
below 55 mph (88 km/h).

When driving in low speed or stop and go traffic
below 55 mph (88 km/h).

When driving in parking lots.
Use the Tow/Haul Mode instead of the previous
recommendation to shift to THIRD (3) to improve fuel
economy at highway speeds and shift performance at
lower speeds. Operating in the Tow/Haul Mode when
not pulling a heavy trailer will not cause damage to the
vehicle, but you may experience reduced fuel economy
and undesirable performance from the engine and
transmission. The Tow/Haul Mode should be used only
when pulling a heavy trailer.
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4-52 Driving with a Trailer
CAUTION:
If you have a rear-most window open and you
pull a trailer with your vehicle, carbon monoxide
(CO) could come into your vehicle. You can't see
or smell CO. It can cause unconsciousness or
death. (See ªEngine Exhaustº in the Index.)
To maximize your safety when towing a trailer:

Have your exhaust system inspected for
leaks, and make necessary repairs before
starting on your trip.

Keep the rear
-most windows closed.

If exhaust does come into your vehicle
through a window in the rear or another
opening, drive with your front, main
heating or cooling system on and with the
fan on any speed. This will bring fresh,
outside air into your vehicle. Do not use
RECIRCULATION because it only
recirculates the air inside your vehicle.
(See ªComfort Controlsº in the Index.)
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.
Before setting out for the open road, you'll want to get
to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of
handling and braking with the added weight of the
trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you
are driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform
(and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector,
lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has
electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and
then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure
the brakes are working. This lets you check your
electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the
load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes
are still working.
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4-54 Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
When you tow a trailer, your vehicle has to have extra
wiring and a heavy
-duty turn signal flasher.
The arrows on your instrument panel will flash
whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly
hooked up, the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other
drivers you're about to turn, change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument
panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer
are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you
are seeing your signal when they are not. It's important
to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are
still working.
Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start
down a long or steep downgrade. If you don't shift
down, you might have to use your brakes so much
that they would get hot and no longer work well.You should use THIRD (3) when towing a trailer.
Operating your vehicle in THIRD (3) when towing a
trailer will minimize heat buildup and extend the life of
your transmission. See ªTow/Haul Modeº in the Index.
When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades,
consider the following: Engine coolant will boil at a
lower temperature than at normal altitudes. If you turn
your engine off immediately after towing at high altitude
on steep uphill grades, your vehicle may show signs
similar to engine overheating. To avoid this, let the
engine run while parked (preferably on level ground)
with the automatic transmission in PARK (P) for a few
minutes before turning the engine off. If you do get the
overheat warning, see ªEngine Overheatingº in
the Index.
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4-55 Parking on Hills
CAUTION:
You really should not park your vehicle, with
a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes
wrong, your rig could start to move. People can
be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer
can be damaged.
But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here's
how to do it:
1. Apply your regular brakes, but don't shift into
PARK (P) yet. Then turn your wheels into the curb if
facing downhill or into traffic if facing uphill.
2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels.
3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the
regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking
brake, and then shift into PARK (P).
5. Release the regular brakes.
CAUTION:
It can be dangerous to get out of your vehicle if
the shift lever is not fully in PARK (P) with the
parking brake firmly set. Your vehicle can roll.
If you have left the engine running, the vehicle
can move suddenly. You or others could be
injured. To be sure your vehicle won't move,
even when you're on fairly level ground, use the
steps that follow.
Always put the shift lever fully in PARK (P) with
the parking brake firmly set.
If the transfer case on four-wheel drive vehicles is
in NEUTRAL, your vehicle will be free to roll,
even if your shift lever is in PARK (P). So, be
sure the transfer case is in a drive gear
-- not
in NEUTRAL. See ªFour
-Wheel Drive
(Automatic Transfer Case)º in the Index.
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4-56 When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down
while you:

Start your engine;

Shift into a gear; and

Release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you're
pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more
on this. Things that are especially important in trailer
operation are automatic transmission fluid (don't
overfill), engine oil, axle lubricant, belt, cooling system
and brake system. Each of these is covered in this
manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly.
If you're trailering, it's a good idea to review these
sections before you start your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts
are tight.
Trailer Wiring Harness
The heavy-duty trailer wiring is an eight-wire harness
assembly. The harness is stored under the vehicle, on the
driver's side corner frame rear crossmember. The harness is
fused in the engine compartment fuse block. See ªFuses and
Circuit Breakersº in the Index. The harness does not have a
connector and should be wired by a qualified electrical
technician. The technician can use the following color code
chart when connecting the wiring harness to your trailer.

Dark Blue: Use for electric trailer brakes or
auxiliary wiring.

Red: Use for battery charging; it connects to the
starter solenoid.

Light Green: Back
-up lamps.

Brown: Taillamps and parking lamps.

Yellow: Left stoplamp and turn signal.

Dark Green: Right stoplamp and turn signal.

White: Ground wire.

Light Blue: Auxiliary stoplamp.
Securely attach the harness to the trailer, then tape or
strap it to your vehicle's frame rail. Be sure you leave it
loose enough so the wiring doesn't bend or break, but
not so loose that it drags on the ground. Store the
harness in its original place. Wrap the harness together
and tie it neatly so it won't be damaged.
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5-
5-1
Section 5 Problems on the Road
Here you'll find what to do about some problems that can occur on the road.
5
-2 Hazard Warning Flashers
5
-3 Other Warning Devices
5
-3 Jump Starting
5
-7 Towing Your Vehicle
5
-8 Engine Overheating5
-11 Cooling System
5
-19 Engine Fan Noise
5
-19 If a Tire Goes Flat
5
-20 Changing a Flat Tire
5
-30 If You're Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow
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5-5
5. Check that the jumper cables don't have loose or
missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock.
The vehicles could be damaged too.
Before you connect the cables, here are some basic
things you should know. Positive (+) will go to
positive (+) and negative (
-) will go to a heavy,
unpainted metal engine part. Don't connect
positive (+) to negative (
-) or you'll get a short that
would damage the battery and maybe other parts too.
6. Connect the red
positive (+) cable to the
positive (+) terminal of
the vehicle with the
dead battery.
7. Don't let the other end
touch metal. Connect it
to the positive (+)
terminal of the
good battery.
8. Now connect the black
negative (
-) cable to
the good battery's
negative (
-) terminal.
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5-6
Don't let the other end touch anything until the next
step. The other end of the negative cable doesn't go
to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy unpainted
metal part on the engine of the vehicle with the
dead battery.
9. Attach the cable at least
18 inches (45 cm) away
from the dead battery,
but not near engine parts
that move. The electrical
connection is just as
good there, but the
chance of sparks getting
back to the battery is
much less.10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and
run the engine for awhile.
11. Try to start the vehicle with the dead battery.
If it won't start after a few tries, make sure all
connections are good. If it still won't start,
it probably needs service.
CAUTION:
Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you
badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts
once the engine is running.
12. Remove the cables in reverse order to prevent
electrical shorting. Take care that they don't touch
each other or any other metal.
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