brakes GMC ENVOY 2003 Owner's Guide

Hitches
It's important to have the correct hitch equipment.
Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are
a few reasons why you'll need the right hitch. Here
are some rules to follow:
·If you'll be pulling a trailer that, when loaded, will
weigh more than 4,000 lbs. (1 816 kg), be sure to
use a properly mounted, weight-distributing
hitch and sway control of the proper size. This
equipment is very important for proper vehicle
loading and good handling when you're driving.
·Will you have to make any holes in the body of
your vehicle when you install a trailer hitch?
If you do, then be sure to seal the holes later when
you remove the hitch. If you don't seal them,
deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from your exhaust
can get into your vehicle. Dirt and water can, too.
Safety Chains
You should always attach chains between your vehicle
and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the
tongue of the trailer to help prevent the tongue from
contacting the road if it becomes separated from
the hitch.
Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the
hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer.Follow the manufacturer's recommendation for attaching
safety chains and do not attach them to the bumper.
Always leave just enough slack so you can turn
with your rig. Never allow safety chains to drag on the
ground.
Trailer Brakes
If your trailer weighs more than 1,500 lbs. (680 kg)
loaded, then it needs its own brakes Ð and they must
be adequate. Be sure to read and follow the instructions
for the trailer brakes so you'll be able to install, adjust
and maintain them properly.
Your trailer's brake system can tap into the vehicle's
hydraulic brake system only if:
·The trailer parts can withstand 3,000 psi
(20 650 kPa) of pressure.
·The trailer's brake system will use less than
0.02 cubic inch (0.3 cc) of ¯uid from your vehicle's
master cylinder. Otherwise, both braking systems
won't work well. You could even lose your brakes.
If everything checks out this far, then make the brake
¯uid tap at the port on the master cylinder that
sends ¯uid to the rear brakes. But don't use copper
tubing for this. If you do, it will bend and ®nally break off.
Use steel brake tubing.
4-55

Driving with a Trailer
{CAUTION:
If you have a rear-most window open and you
pull a trailer with your vehicle, carbon
monoxide (CO) could come into your vehicle.
You can't see or smell CO. It can cause
unconsciousness or death. See ªEngine
Exhaustº in the Index. To maximize your safety
when towing a trailer:
·Have your exhaust system inspected for
leaks, and make necessary repairs before
starting on your trip.
·Keep the rear-most windows closed.
·If exhaust does come into your vehicle
through a window in the rear or another
opening, drive with your front, main heating
or cooling system on and with the fan on
any speed. This will bring fresh, outside air
into your vehicle. Do not use the climate
control setting for maximum air because it
only recirculates the air inside your vehicle.
See ªClimate Controlsº in the Index.Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.
Before setting out for the open road, you'll want to get
to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of
handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer.
And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are
driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform
(and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector,
lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has
electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and
then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be
sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your
electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the
load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer
brakes are still working.
4-56

Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gearbeforeyou start
down a long or steep downgrade. If you don't shift
down, you might have to use your brakes so much that
they would get hot and no longer work well.
You can tow in DRIVE (D). You may want to shift the
transmission to THIRD (3) or a lower gear, under heavy
loads or hilly conditions.
When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades,
consider the following: Engine coolant will boil at a lower
temperature than at normal altitudes. If you turn your
engine off immediately after towing at high altitude
on steep uphill grades, your vehicle may show signs
similar to engine overheating. To avoid this, let the
engine run while parked (preferably on level ground)
with the automatic transmission in PARK (P) for a
few minutes before turning the engine off. If you do get
the overheat warning, see
Engine Overheating on
page 5-27.
Parking on Hills
{CAUTION:
You really should not park your vehicle, with a
trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes
wrong, your rig could start to move. People
can be injured, and both your vehicle and the
trailer can be damaged.
But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here's
how to do it:
1. Apply your regular brakes, but don't shift into
PARK (P) yet. When parking uphill, turn your wheels
away from the curb. When parking downhill, turn
your wheels into the curb.
2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer
wheels.
3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the
regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your
parking brake, and then shift into PARK (P).
5. Release the regular brakes.
4-58

{CAUTION:
It can be dangerous to get out of your vehicle
if the shift lever is not fully in PARK (P) with
the parking brake ®rmly set. Your vehicle
can roll.
If you have left the engine running, the vehicle
can move suddenly. You or others could be
injured. To be sure your vehicle won't move,
even when you're on fairly level ground, use
the steps that follow.
Always put the shift lever fully in PARK (P)
with the parking brake ®rmly set.
If the transfer case on four-wheel drive
vehicles is in NEUTRAL, your vehicle will be
free to roll, even if your shift lever is in
PARK (P). So, be sure the transfer case is in a
drive gear Ð not in NEUTRAL.
See ªFour-Wheel Drive (Automatic Transfer
Case)º in the Index.
When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down
while you:
·start your engine,
·shift into a gear, and
·release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the
chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you're
pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more
on this. Things that are especially important in trailer
operation are automatic transmission ¯uid (don't over®ll),
engine oil, axle lubricant, belt(s), cooling system and
brake system. Each of these is covered in this manual,
and the Index will help you ®nd them quickly. If
you're trailering, it's a good idea to review these sections
before you start your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts
are tight.
4-59

Trailer Wiring Harness
Your vehicle may be equipped with the seven-wire
trailer towing harness. This harness has a seven-pin
universal heavy-duty trailer connector that is attached to
a bracket on the hitch platform.The seven-wire harness contains the following trailer
circuits:
·Yellow: Left Stop/Turn Signal
·Dark Green: Right Stop/Turn Signal
·Brown: Running Lamps
·White: Ground
·Light Green: Back-up Lamps
·Red: Battery Feed
·Dark Blue: Electric Brakes
If you need to tow a light-duty trailer with a standard
four-way round pin connector, an adapter connector is
available from your dealer.
Your vehicle may also be equipped with wiring for an
electric trailer brake controller. These wires are located
inside the vehicle on the driver's side under the
instrument panel. These wires should be connected to
an electric trailer brake controller by your dealer or
a quali®ed service center.
4-60

Service............................................................5-3
Doing Your Own Service Work.........................5-3
Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your
Vehicle......................................................5-4
Fuel................................................................5-4
Gasoline Octane............................................5-4
Gasoline Speci®cations....................................5-5
California Fuel...............................................5-5
Additives.......................................................5-6
Fuels in Foreign Countries...............................5-7
Filling Your Tank............................................5-7
Filling a Portable Fuel Container.......................5-9
Checking Things Under the Hood....................5-10
Hood Release..............................................5-10
Engine Compartment Overview.......................5-12
Engine Oil...................................................5-15
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter................................5-20
Automatic Transmission Fluid.........................5-21
Engine Coolant.............................................5-24
Radiator Pressure Cap..................................5-26
Engine Overheating.......................................5-27
Cooling System............................................5-29
Engine Fan Noise.........................................5-35
Power Steering Fluid.....................................5-36
Windshield Washer Fluid................................5-37Brakes........................................................5-38
Battery........................................................5-41
Jump Starting...............................................5-42
Rear Axle.......................................................5-48
Four-Wheel Drive............................................5-48
Bulb Replacement..........................................5-50
Halogen Bulbs..............................................5-50
Headlamps..................................................5-50
Front Turn Signal and Sidemarker Lamps........5-51
Taillamps and Turn Signal Lamps...................5-51
Replacement Bulbs.......................................5-52
Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement..............5-52
Tires..............................................................5-54
In¯ation -- Tire Pressure................................5-55
Tire Inspection and Rotation...........................5-55
When It Is Time for New Tires.......................5-57
Buying New Tires.........................................5-58
Uniform Tire Quality Grading..........................5-59
Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance..................5-60
Wheel Replacement......................................5-60
Tire Chains..................................................5-62
Accessory In¯ator.........................................5-62
If a Tire Goes Flat........................................5-64
Changing a Flat Tire.....................................5-64
Section 5 Service and Appearance Care
5-1

A. Coolant Recovery Tank. SeeEngine Coolant on
page 5-24.
B. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See
Engine Air
Cleaner/Filter on page 5-20.
C. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See
Windshield
Washer Fluid on page 5-37.
D. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. See
Power Steering
Fluid on page 5-36.
E. Automatic Transmission Dipstick. See
Automatic
Transmission Fluid on page 5-21.
F. Engine Oil Dipstick. See
Engine Oil on page 5-15.G. Radiator Pressure Cap. See
Radiator Pressure Cap
on page 5-26.
H. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See
Engine Oil on page 5-15.
I. Remote Negative (-) Terminal Marked GND.
See
Jump Starting on page 5-42.
J. Brake Master Cylinder. See
Brakes on page 5-38.
K. Battery. See
Battery on page 5-41.
L. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. See ªEngine
Compartment Fuse Blockº under
Fuses and Circuit
Breakers on page 5-90.
5-13

A. Coolant Recovery Tank. SeeEngine Coolant on
page 5-24.
B. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See
Engine Air
Cleaner/Filter on page 5-20.
C. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See
Windshield
Washer Fluid on page 5-37.
D. Engine Oil Dipstick. See
Engine Oil on page 5-15.
E. Automatic Transmission Dipstick. See
Automatic
Transmission Fluid on page 5-21.
F. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See
Engine Oil on page 5-15.
G. Radiator Pressure Cap. See
Radiator Pressure Cap
on page 5-26.
H. Remote Negative (-) Terminal Marked GND. See
Jump Starting on page 5-42.
I. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. See
Power Steering
Fluid on page 5-36.
J. Brake Master Cylinder. See
Brakes on page 5-38.
K. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. See ªEngine
Compartment Fuse blockº under
Fuses and Circuit
Breakers on page 5-90.
L. Battery. See
Battery on page 5-41.
Engine Oil
You should check your engine oil level regularly; this is
an added reminder.
Checking Engine Oil
It's a good idea to check your engine oil every time you
get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil
must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.
The engine oil dipstick
handle is a yellow ring
located in the engine
compartment toward the
passenger's side of
the vehicle. See
Engine
Compartment Overview on
page 5-12
for more
information on location.
Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to
drain back into the oil pan. If you don't, the oil
dipstick might not show the actual level.
Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or
cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again,
keeping the tip down, and check the level.
5-15

Brakes
Brake Fluid
Your brake master cylinder reservoir is ®lled with DOT-3
brake ¯uid. SeeEngine Compartment Overview on
page 5-12for the location of the reservoir.
There are only two reasons why the brake ¯uid level in
the reservoir might go down. The ®rst is that the
brake ¯uid goes down to an acceptable level during
normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in,
the ¯uid level goes back up. The other reason is
that ¯uid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, youshould have your brake system ®xed, since a leak
means that sooner or later your brakes won't work well,
or won't work at all.
So, it isn't a good idea to ªtop offº your brake ¯uid.
Adding brake ¯uid won't correct a leak. If you add ¯uid
when your linings are worn, then you'll have too
much ¯uid when you get new brake linings. You should
add (or remove) brake ¯uid, as necessary, only when
work is done on the brake hydraulic system.
{CAUTION:
If you have too much brake ¯uid, it can spill on
the engine. The ¯uid will burn if the engine is
hot enough. You or others could be burned,
and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake
¯uid only when work is done on the brake
hydraulic system. See ªChecking Brake Fluidº
in this section.
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when
to check your brake ¯uid. See
Part C: Periodic
MaintenanceInspections on page 6-16.
5-38

Checking Brake Fluid
You can check the brake ¯uid without taking off the cap.
Just look at the brake ¯uid
reservoir. The ¯uid level
should be above MIN. If it
isn't have your brake
system checked to see if
there is a leak.
After work is done on the brake hydraulic system,
make sure the level is above the MIN but not over the
MAX mark.
What to Add
When you do need brake ¯uid, use only DOT-3 brake
¯uid. Use new brake ¯uid from a sealed container
only. See
Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants
on page 6-18.Always clean the brake ¯uid reservoir cap and the area
around the cap before removing it. This will help
keep dirt from entering the reservoir.
{CAUTION:
With the wrong kind of ¯uid in your brake
system, your brakes may not work well, or
they may not even work at all. This could
cause a crash. Always use the proper
brake ¯uid.
Notice:
·Using the wrong ¯uid can badly damage brake
system parts. For example, just a few drops of
mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your
brake system can damage brake system
parts so badly that they'll have to be replaced.
Don't let someone put in the wrong kind of ¯uid.
·If you spill brake ¯uid on your vehicle's painted
surfaces, the paint ®nish can be damaged. Be
careful not to spill brake ¯uid on your vehicle. If
you do, wash it off immediately. See
ªAppearance Careº in the Index.
5-39