wheel GMC SAFARI 2002 Owner's Guide

4-39 Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as
you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer.
This can help you avoid situations that require heavy
braking and sudden turns.
Passing
You'll need more passing distance up ahead when
you're towing a trailer. And, because you're a good
deal longer, you'll need to go much farther beyond the
passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that
hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move
your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and,
if possible, have someone guide you.
Making Turns
NOTICE:
Making very sharp turns while trailering could
cause the trailer to come in contact with the
vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid
making very sharp turns while trailering.
When you're turning with a trailer, make wider turns
than normal. Do this so your trailer won't strike soft
shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects.
Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well
in advance.

4-41 Parking on Hills
CAUTION:
You really should not park your vehicle, with
a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes
wrong, your rig could start to move. People can
be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer
can be damaged.
But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here's
how to do it:
1. Apply your regular brakes, but don't shift into
PARK (P) yet.
2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels.
3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the
regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking
brake, and shift to PARK (P).
5. Release the regular brakes.
When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down
while you:

start your engine,

shift into a gear, and

release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you're
pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for
more on this. Things that are especially important in
trailer operation are automatic transmission fluid
(don't overfill), engine oil, axle lubricant, belt, cooling
system and brake system. Each of these is covered
in this manual, and the Index will help you find them
quickly. If you're trailering, it's a good idea to review
these sections before you start your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts
are tight.

4-42 Trailer Wiring Harness
If you have the optional trailering package, your vehicle
will have an eight
-wire harness, including the center
high
-mounted stoplamp battery feed wire. The harness
is stored on the passenger's side of the vehicle near the
rear wheel well. This harness has a 30 amp battery
feed wire and no connector, and should be wired by
a qualified electrical technician. After choosing an
aftermarket trailer mating connector pair, have the
technician attach one connector to the eight
-wire trailer
harness and the other connector to the wiring harness on
the trailer. Be sure the wiring harness on the trailer is
taped or strapped to the trailer's frame rail and leave it
loose enough so the wiring doesn't bend or break, but
not so loose that it drags on the ground. The eight
-wire
harness must be routed out of your vehicle between the
rear door and the floor, with enough of the harness left
on both sides so that the trailer or the body won't pull it.
If you do not have the optional trailering package, your
vehicle will still have a trailering harness. The harness
is located near the passenger's side rear wheel well.
It consists of six wires that may be used by
after
-market trailer hitch installers.The technician can use the following color code chart
when connecting the wiring harness to your trailer.

Brown: Rear lamps.

Yellow: Left stoplamp and turn signal.

Dark Green: Right stoplamp and turn signal.

White (Heavy Gage): Ground.

Light Green: Back
-up lamps.

White (Light Gage): Center High
-Mounted
Stoplamp.

Blue: Auxiliary circuit (eight
-wire harness only).

Orange: Fused auxiliary (eight
-wire harness only).
Store the harness in its original place. Wrap the
harness together and tie it neatly so it won't
be damaged.

5-17
Engine Fan Noise
This vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When
the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide
more air to cool the engine. In most everyday driving
conditions, the clutch is not fully engaged. This
improves fuel economy and reduces fan noise. Under
heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing and/or high outside
temperatures, the fan speed increases when the clutch
engages. So you may hear an increase in fan noise.
This is normal and should not be mistaken as the
transmission slipping or making extra shifts. It is merely
the cooling system functioning properly. The fan will
slow down when additional cooling is not required and
the clutch disengages.
You may also hear this fan noise when you start the
engine. It will go away as the fan clutch disengages.
If a Tire Goes Flat
It's unusual for a tire to ªblow outº while you're driving,
especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes
out of a tire, it's much more likely to leak out slowly.
But if you should ever have a ªblowout,º here are a few
tips about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that
pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off
the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly.
Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to
a stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a
skid and may require the same correction you'd use in a
skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the
accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by
steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be
very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently
brake to a stop
-- well off the road if possible.
If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your
jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.

5-18
Changing a Flat Tire
If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage
by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard
warning flashers.
CAUTION:
Changing a tire can cause an injury. The vehicle
can slip off the jack and roll over you or other
people. You and they could be badly injured.
Find a level place to change your tire. To help
prevent the vehicle from moving:
1. Set the parking brake firmly.
2. Put the shift lever in PARK (P).
3. Turn off the engine.
4. Put the wheel blocks at the front and
rear of the tire farthest away from the
one being changed. That would be the
tire on the other side of the vehicle, at
the opposite end.The following steps will tell you how to use the jack and
change a tire.

5-19 Removing the Spare Tire and Tools
The jacking equipment you'll need is stored by your
vehicle's rear doors, along the passenger's side wall.
1. Remove the jack cover by pulling it away from the
side wall and down to release the tabs securing the
top of the cover.
2. Remove the wheel blocks by turning the top nut
counterclockwise. Remove the nut and washer, then
pull the wheel blocks off the bolt.
3. Push down on the bolt and remove the hooked end
from the slot. Slide the jack toward the front of the
vehicle and lift it from the mounting. Remove the
extension and the ratchet from the pouch.

5-21
5. Put the flat end of the extension on an angle through
the hole in the rear door frame, above the bumper.
Be sure the flat end connects into the hoist shaft.
6. Turn the ratchet counterclockwise to lower the
compact spare tire to the ground. Keep turning the
ratchet until the spare tire can be pulled out from
under the vehicle.
7. When the tire has been
lowered, tilt the retainer
plate at the end of the
cable and pull it through
the wheel opening.
8. Pull the tire out from under the vehicle.
NOTICE:
To help avoid vehicle damage, do not drive the
vehicle before the cable is restored.

5-22
The tools you'll be using include the jack (A), wheel
blocks (B), extension (C) and ratchet (D).
Removing the Wheel Covers
You will have to take off hub caps or wheel nut caps to
reach your wheel nuts.
Styled Steel Wheel Shown
If you have the styled steel wheel or aluminum wheel with
plastic nut caps, loosen the plastic nut caps with the ratchet
and socket. Make sure the DOWN side faces you.
To remove the hub cap from the aluminum wheel
without plastic nut caps, fit the flat end of the extension
into the notch. Then, remove the center cap.

5-23 Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the
Spare Tire
1. Before you start, block the front and rear of the tire
farthest away from the one being changed. Then put
your compact spare tire near the flat tire.
2. With the DOWN side facing you, use the ratchet and
socket to loosen all the wheel nuts. Don't remove
them yet.
3. The jack has a bolt on the end. Attach the socket end
of the extension to the jack bolt.

5-27
7. Raise the vehicle by turning the ratchet clockwise.
Make sure the UP mark faces you. Raise the vehicle
far enough off the ground so there is enough room
for the compact spare tire to fit underneath the
wheel well.
8. Remove all the wheel nuts and take off the flat tire.
9. Remove any rust or dirt
from the wheel bolts,
mounting surfaces and
spare wheel.
CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to
which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts
become loose after a time. The wheel could come
off and cause an accident. When you change a
wheel, remove any rust or dirt from the places
where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an
emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel
to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire
brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or
dirt off.