tow GMC SAVANA 2009 Workshop Manual

Checking the Fluid Level
Prepare your vehicle as follows:
1. Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine
running.
2. With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever
in P (PARK).
3. With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift
lever through each gear range, pausing for about
three seconds in each range. Then, position
the shift lever in P (PARK).
4. Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more.
Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:
The transmission dipstick
is located near the center
of the engine compartment
and will be labeled with
the graphic shown.SeeEngine Compartment Overview on page 5-14for
more information on location.
1. Flip the handle up and then pull out the dipstick
and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.
2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and
then pull it back out again.
3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower
level. The fluid level must be in the COLD area
for a cold check or in the HOT or cross-hatched
area for a hot check. Be sure to keep the dipstick
pointed down to get an accurate reading.
4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the
dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle
down to lock the dipstick in place.
5-23

If Steam Is Coming From The Engine
Compartment
{CAUTION:
Steam from an overheated engine can burn you
badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away
from the engine if you see or hear steam coming
from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from
the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is
no sign of steam or coolant before you open
the hood.
If you keep driving when your engine is
overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or
others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if
it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the
engine is cool.
If No Steam Is Coming From The
Engine Compartment
If an engine overheat warning is displayed but no
steam can be seen or heard, the problem may not
be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little
too hot when the vehicle:
•Climbs a long hill on a hot day.
•Stops after high-speed driving.
•Idles for long periods in traffic.
•Tows a trailer. See “Driving on Grades” under
Towing a Trailer on page 4-26.
If the overheat warning is displayed with no sign of
steam:
1. Turn the air off.
2. Turn the heater on to the highest temperature and
to the highest fan speed. Open the windows as
necessary.
3. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in N (Neutral)
while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the
road, shift to P (Park) or N (Neutral) and let
the engine idle.
5-32

If the temperature overheat gage is no longer in the
overheat zone or an overheat warning no longer
displays, the vehicle can be driven. Continue to drive
the vehicle slow for about 10 minutes. Keep a safe
vehicle distance from the car in front of you. If the
warning does not come back on, continue to drive
normally.
If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park the
vehicle right away.
If there is still no sign of steam, push down the
accelerator until the engine speed is about twice
as fast as normal idle speed for at least three minutes
while you are parked. If you still have the warning, turn
off the engine until it cools down.
You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service
help right away.Engine Fan Noise
Your vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan.
When the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to
provide more air to cool the engine. In most everyday
driving conditions, the fan is spinning slower and the
clutch is not fully engaged. This improves fuel economy
and reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading,
trailer towing, and/or high outside temperatures, the fan
speed increases as the clutch more fully engages, so you
may hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and
should not be mistaken as the transmission slipping or
making extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system
functioning properly. The fan will slow down when
additional cooling is not required and the clutch partially
disengages.
You may also hear this fan noise when you start the
engine. It will go away as the fan clutch partially
disengages.
5-33

If the vehicle has dual rear wheels, always use
one of the correct rotation patterns shown here
when rotating the tires.
When you install dual wheels, be sure that vent
holes in the inner and outer wheels on each
side are lined up.
Also seeDual Tire Operation on page 5-63for
additional information.
After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front
and rear inflation pressures as shown on the Tire
and Loading Information label. SeeInflation - Tire
Pressure on page 5-62andLoading the Vehicle on
page 4-18. Make certain that all wheel nuts are
properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” under
Capacities and Specifications on page 5-110.
{CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to
which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts
become loose after time. The wheel could
come off and cause an accident. When you
change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from
places where the wheel attaches to the
vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth
or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a
scraper or wire brush later, if needed, to get all
the rust or dirt off. SeeChanging a Flat Tire on
page 5-80.
If your vehicle has a Tire Pressure Monitor
System (TPMS), reset the TPMS sensors after
rotating the tires. SeeTire Pressure Monitor
Operation on page 5-65.
Make sure the spare tire is stored securely. Push,
pull, and then try to rotate or turn the tire. If it
moves, tighten the cable. SeeStoring a Flat or
Spare Tire and Tools on page 5-94.
Dual Rear Wheels
5-70

If a Tire Goes Flat
It is unusual for a tire to blowout while you are driving,
especially if you maintain your vehicle’s tires properly.
If air goes out of a tire, it is much more likely to leak out
slowly. But if you should ever have a blowout, here
are a few tips about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the flat tire creates a drag that pulls
the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the
accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly.
Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake
to a stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like
a skid and may require the same correction you would
use in a skid. In any rear blowout remove your foot from
the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by
steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be
very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently
brake to a stop, well off the road if possible.{CAUTION:
Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do
maintenance or repairs is dangerous without the
appropriate safety equipment and training. If a jack
is provided with the vehicle, it is designed only for
changing a flat tire. If it is used for anything else,
you or others could be badly injured or killed if the
vehicle slips off the jack. If a jack is provided with
the vehicle, only use it for changing a flat tire.
If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use the
jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.
5-79

1. Assemble the wheel wrench (G) to one or two of
the jack handle extensions and the hoist extension.
Insert the hoist extension end through the hole
in the rear bumper.
2. Be sure the hoist extension end connects to the
hoist shaft (E). The chiseled end of the extension
is used to lower the spare tire.
3. Turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise to lower
the spare tire to the ground. Continue to turn the
wheel wrench until the spare tire can be pulled out
from under the vehicle.
If the spare tire does not lower to the ground, the
secondary latch is engaged causing the tire not to
lower. SeeSecondary Latch System on page 5-91.4. When the tire has been lowered, pull the tire toward
you so you can reach the tire retainer and pull it up
through the wheel opening.
If you have a vehicle which was completed from a
cab and chassis, refer to the information from
body supplier/installer.
The spare tire is a full-size tire, like the other tires
on the vehicle.
5. Put the spare tire near the flat tire.
5-83

{CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it
is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose
after time. The wheel could come off and cause an
accident. When changing a wheel, remove any rust
or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the
vehicle. In an emergency, use a cloth or a paper
towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire
brush later, if needed, to get all the rust or dirt off.
SeeChanging a Flat Tire on page 5-80.8. Remove any rust or dirt
from the wheel bolts,
mounting surfaces
and spare wheel.
{CAUTION:
Never use oil or grease on bolts or nuts because
the nuts might come loose. The vehicle’s wheel
could fall off, causing a crash.
5-88

9. Put the wheel nuts
back on with the
rounded end of the
nuts toward the wheel.
Tighten each wheel
nut by hand until
the wheel is held
against the hub.
10. Lower the vehicle by turning the jack handle
counterclockwise. Lower the jack completely.
{CAUTION:
Wheel nuts that are not tight can work loose. If all
the nuts on a wheel come off, the wheel can come
off the vehicle, causing a crash. All wheel nuts
must be properly tightened. Follow the rules in
this section to be sure they are.
{CAUTION:
If wheel studs are damaged, they can break. If all
the studs on a wheel broke, the wheel could come
off and cause a crash. If any stud is damaged
because of a loose-running wheel, it could be that
all of the studs are damaged. To be sure, replace
all studs on the wheel. If the stud holes in a wheel
have become larger, the wheel could collapse in
operation. Replace any wheel if its stud holes have
become larger or distorted in any way. Inspect hubs
and hub-piloted wheels for damage. Because of
loose running wheels, piloting pad damage may
occur and require replacement of the entire hub,
for proper centering of the wheels. When replacing
studs, hubs, wheel nuts or wheels, be sure to use
GM original equipment parts.
5-89

Secondary Latch System
Your vehicle has an underbody-mounted tire hoist
assembly equipped with a secondary latch system.
It is designed to stop the spare tire from suddenly
falling off the vehicle if the cable holding the spare
tire is damaged. For the secondary latch to work, the
tire must be stowed with the valve stem pointing down.
SeeStoring a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools on
page 5-94for instructions on storing the spare tire
correctly.
{CAUTION:
Before beginning this procedure read all the
instructions. Failure to read and follow the
instructions could damage the hoist assembly
and you and others could get hurt. Read and
follow the instructions listed next.To release the spare tire from the secondary latch:
{CAUTION:
Someone standing too close during the procedure
could be injured by the jack. If the spare tire does
not slide off the jack completely, make sure no
one is behind you or on either side of you as you
pull the jack out from the under spare.
1. Check under the
vehicle to see if the
cable end is visible.
If the cable is not
visible, start this
procedure at Step 6.
2. Turn the hoist extension counterclockwise until
approximately 6 inches (15 cm) of cable is exposed.
5-91

Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and
Tools
{CAUTION:
Storing a jack, a tire, or other equipment in the
passenger compartment of the vehicle could
cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose
equipment could strike someone. Store all these
in the proper place.
1. Put the tire on the ground at the rear of the vehicle
with the valve stem pointed down.2. Pull the retaining bar through the center of the
wheel, making sure it is properly attached.
3. Pull the wheel toward the rear of the vehicle,
keeping the cable tight.
4. Put the chisel end of the hoist extension on an
angle through the hole in the rear door frame,
above the bumper.
5. Raise the tire fully against the underside of the
vehicle. Continue turning the wheel wrench until
the tire is secure and the cable is tight. The spare
tire hoist cannot be overtightened.
5-94