clock GMC SAVANA 2010 Owner's Guide

5. Lift the outboard side of the headlamp to release
the outboard tab from the radiator support.
6. Lower the headlamp to allow the vertical adjustor to
clear the tie bar.
7. Turn the headlamp forward and upward to remove
it from the grille.
8. Turn the bulb connector counterclockwise and pull it
out of the housing.
9. Without removing the headlamp assembly itself,
remove the bulb socket from the back of the
headlamp on the driver’s side.
10. Turn the bulb counterclockwise one quarter turn to
remove it from the socket.
11. On the passenger’s side, turn the bulb clockwise
one turn.12. Install the new bulb into the socket then reinstall it
into the headlamp assembly.
13. Reverse the steps to reinstall the headlamp
assembly.
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Front Turn Signal, Sidemarker and
Parking Lamps
To replace the front turn signal, sidemarker and/or
parking lamp bulb(s):
1. Use a small tool to unlatch the outboard clip on
the lamp.
2. Pull the lamp forward to completely unlatch the
clip. Move the lamp to the outboard side to
loosen the tabs.
3. Remove the lamp from the grille.
4. Squeeze the tab on the side of the bulb socket
while turning it counterclockwise.
5. Remove the bulb socket from the back of the lamp
assembly.6. Replace the bulb.
7. Turn the bulb socket clockwise to reinstall it in the
lamp assembly.
Center High-Mounted
Stoplamp (CHMSL)
The Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) is located
above the rear doors at the center of the vehicle.
To replace a bulb:
1. Remove the two screws from the CHMSL assembly.
2. Remove the CHMSL assembly.
3. Turn the bulb counterclockwise one quarter turn to
remove it from the socket.
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4. Turn the bulb clockwise one quarter turn to install it
in the socket.
5. Reinstall the CHMSL assembly and two screws.
Do not block or damage the CHMSL when items
are loaded on the roof of the vehicle.
Taillamps
To replace one of these bulbs:
1. Remove the two
inboard nuts from the
inside of the taillamp
assembly.
2. Pull the taillamp assembly straight back to clear
the studs.
3. Slide the taillamp assembly slightly upward to
release the lower clip.4. Remove the three nuts on the taillamp assembly.
5. Remove the taillamp assembly from the vehicle.
6. Remove the bulb socket by squeezing the tab on
the side of the socket while turning it
counterclockwise.
7. Turn the bulb counterclockwise to remove it.
8. Turn the bulb clockwise to install it in the socket.
9. Reinstall the bulb socket by squeezing the tab while
turning it clockwise.
10. Reinstall the taillamp assembly and three nuts on
the vehicle.
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11. Slide the taillamp slightly downward to reengage
the lower clip.
12. Push the taillamp straight forward to reengage
the studs.
13. Reinstall the two inboard nuts from the inside of the
taillamp assembly.
License Plate Lamp
To replace one of these bulbs:
A. Bulb Socket
B. License Plate Bulb Assembly
C. Screws1. Remove the two screws (C) securing the license
plate bulb assembly (B).
2. Turn the bulb socket (A) counterclockwise and pull
the bulb straight out of the socket.
3. Install the new bulb.
4. Reverse steps 1 and 2 to reinstall the license plate
bulb assembly.Replacement Bulbs
Exterior Lamp Bulb Number
Back-up, Rear Parking,
Stoplamp, and Turn Signal Lamp3157
Center High Mounted Stop
Lamp (CHMSL)912
Front Parking and Turn
Signal Lamp3157KX
Front Sidemarker Lamp 194
License Plate Lamp 194
Headlamps
Composite High-Beam
Headlamp9005
Composite Low-Beam
Headlamp9006GS
Sealed Beam Headlamp H6054
For replacement bulbs not listed here, contact your
dealer/retailer.
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3. Turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise to lower
the spare tire to the ground. Continue to turn the
wheel wrench until the spare tire can be pulled out
from under the vehicle.
If the spare tire does not lower to the ground, the
secondary latch is engaged causing the tire
not to lower. SeeSecondary Latch System on
page 6-92.
4. When the tire has been lowered, pull the tire toward
you so you can reach the tire retainer and pull it up
through the wheel opening.
If you have a vehicle which was completed from a
cab and chassis, refer to the information from
body supplier/installer.
The spare tire is a full-size tire, like the other tires
on the vehicle.
5. Put the spare tire near the flat tire.
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Removing the Flat Tire and
Installing the Spare Tire
If your vehicle has plastic wheel nut caps, loosen them
by turning the wheel wrench counterclockwise. The
wheel nut caps are designed to remain with the center
cap. Remove the center cap.
If the wheel has a smooth center piece, place the chisel
end of the wheel wrench in the slot on the wheel and
gently pry it out.
1. Do a safety check before proceeding. SeeChanging
a Flat Tire on page 6-80for more information.
2. Loosen all the wheel nuts with the wheel wrench.
Do not remove them yet.
3. Assemble the jack and tools:Front Flat:Assemble the jack (A) together with the
jack handle (B), 1 or 2 jack handle extensions (D)
and the wheel wrench (E).
Rear Flat:Assemble the jack (A) together with the
jack handle (B), 2 jack handle extensions (D),
and the wheel wrench (E).
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{WARNING:
Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is
dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack you
could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a
vehicle when it is supported only by a jack.
{WARNING:
Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly
positioned can damage the vehicle and even
make the vehicle fall. To help avoid personal injury
and vehicle damage, be sure to fit the jack lift
head into the proper location before raising the
vehicle.
5. Raise the vehicle by turning the wheel wrench
clockwise. Raise the vehicle far enough off the
ground so there is enough room for the spare
tire to fit.6. Remove all the
wheel nuts.
7. Take flat tire off of the mounting surface.
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10. Lower the vehicle by turning the jack handle
counterclockwise. Lower the jack completely.
{WARNING:
Wheel nuts that are not tight can work loose. If all
the nuts on a wheel come off, the wheel can come
off the vehicle, causing a crash. All wheel nuts
must be properly tightened. Follow the rules in this
section to be sure they are.
{WARNING:
If wheel studs are damaged, they can break. If all
the studs on a wheel broke, the wheel could come
off and cause a crash. If any stud is damaged
because of a loose-running wheel, it could be that
all of the studs are damaged. To be sure, replace
all studs on the wheel. If the stud holes in a wheel
have become larger, the wheel could collapse in
operation. Replace any wheel if its stud holes
have become larger or distorted in any way.
Inspect hubs and hub-piloted wheels for damage.
Because of loose running wheels, piloting pad
damage may occur and require replacement of the
entire hub, for proper centering of the wheels.
When replacing studs, hubs, wheel nuts or
wheels, be sure to use GM original equipment
parts.
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{WARNING:
Wheel nuts that are improperly or incorrectly
tightened can cause the wheels to become loose
or come off. The wheel nuts should be tightened
with a torque wrench to the proper torque
specification after replacing. Follow the torque
specification supplied by the aftermarket
manufacturer when using accessory locking wheel
nuts. SeeCapacities and Specications on
page 6-110for original equipment wheel nut
torque specifications.
Notice:Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead
to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid
expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel
nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper
torque specication. SeeCapacities and
Specifications on page 6-110for the wheel nut
torque specication.11. Use the wheel wrench to tighten the nuts firmly.
Turn the wheel wrench clockwise and in a
crisscross sequence as shown.
12. Put the wheel cover or the center cap and plastic
wheel nut caps back on. Remove any wheel
blocks.
Have a technician check the wheel nut tightness of
all wheels with a torque wrench after the first
100 miles (160 km) and then 1,000 miles (1600 km)
after that. Repeat this service whenever you have
a tire removed or serviced. SeeCapacities and
Specications on page 6-110for more information.
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Secondary Latch System
Your vehicle has an underbody-mounted tire hoist
assembly equipped with a secondary latch system. It is
designed to stop the spare tire from suddenly falling
off the vehicle if the cable holding the spare tire is
damaged. For the secondary latch to work, the tire must
be stowed with the valve stem pointing down.
SeeStoring a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools on page 6-94
for instructions on storing the spare tire correctly.
{WARNING:
Before beginning this procedure read all the
instructions. Failure to read and follow the
instructions could damage the hoist assembly and
you and others could get hurt. Read and follow the
instructions listed next.To release the spare tire from the secondary latch:
{WARNING:
Someone standing too close during the procedure
could be injured by the jack. If the spare tire does
not slide off the jack completely, make sure no
one is behind you or on either side of you as you
pull the jack out from under the spare.
1. Check under the vehicle to see if the cable end is
visible.
If the cable is not visible,
start this procedure at
Step 6.
2. Turn the hoist extension counterclockwise until
approximately 6 inches (15 cm) of cable is exposed.
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