GMC SAVANA PASSENGER 2008 Owners Manual

Weight of the Trailer Tongue
The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight
to measure because it affects the total or gross weight
of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW)
includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you
may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in
the vehicle. If you have a lot of options, equipment,
passengers or cargo in your vehicle, it will reduce
the tongue weight your vehicle can carry, which will also
reduce the trailer weight your vehicle can tow. And if
you will tow a trailer, you must add the tongue load
to the GVW because your vehicle will be carrying that
weight, too. SeeLoading Your Vehicle on page 4-20
about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity.The trailer tongue weight (A) should be 10 percent to
15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B), up to a
maximum of 400 lbs (181 kg) with a weight carrying
hitch. The trailer tongue weight (A) should be 10 percent
to 15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B), up
to a maximum of 1,000 lbs (454 kg) with a weight
distributing hitch.
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Do not exceed the maximum allowable tongue weight
for your vehicle. Choose the shortest hitch extension
that will position the hitch ball closest to the vehicle.
This will help reduce the effect of trailer tongue weight
on the rear axle.
After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and then
the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper.
If they aren’t, you may be able to get them right simply by
moving some items around in the trailer.
Trailering may be limited by the vehicle’s ability to
carry tongue weight. Tongue weight cannot cause
the vehicle to exceed the GVWR (Gross Vehicle
Weight Rating) or the RGAWR (Rear Gross Axle
Weight Rating). The effect of additional weight may
reduce your trailering capacity more than the total of
the additional weight.Consider the following example:
A vehicle model base weight is 5,500 lbs (2 495 kg);
2,800 lbs (1 270 kg) at the front axle and 2,700 lbs
(1 225 kg) at the rear axle. It has a GVWR of 7,200 lbs
(3 266 kg), a RGAWR of 4,000 lbs (1 814 kg) and a
GCWR (Gross Combination Weight Rating) of
14,000 lbs (6 350 kg). The trailer rating should be:
You can expect tongue weight to be at least 10 percent
of trailer weight (850 lbs (386 kg)) and because the
weight is applied well behind the rear axle, the effect on
the rear axle will be greater than just the weight itself, as
much as 1.5 times as much. The weight at the rear axle
could be 850 lbs (386 kg) X 1.5 = 1,275 lbs (578 kg).
Since the rear axle already weighs 2,700 lbs (1 225 kg),
adding 1,275 lbs (578 kg) brings the total to 3,975 lbs
(1 803 kg). This is very close to, but within the limit for
RGAWR as well. The vehicle is set to trailer up to
8,500 lbs (3 856 kg).
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But let’s say your specific vehicle is equipped with some
of the latest options and you have a front seat passenger
and two rear seat passengers with some luggage and
gear in the vehicle as well. You may add 300 lbs (136 kg)
to the front axle weight and 400 lbs (181 kg) to the rear
axle weight. Your vehicle now weighs:
Weight is still below 7,200 lbs (3 266 kg) and you may
think that you should subtract 700 additional pounds
(318 kg) from your trailering capacity to stay within
GCWR limits. Your maximum trailer would only be
7,800 lbs (3 538 kg). You may go further and think you
must limit tongue weight to less than 1,000 lbs (454 kg) to
avoid exceeding GVWR. But, you must still consider the
effect on the rear axle. Because your rear axle now
weighs 3,100 lbs (1 406 kg), you can only put 900 lbs
(408 kg) on the rear axle without exceeding RGAWR.The effect of tongue weight is about 1.5 times the actual
weight. Dividing the 900 lbs (408 kg) by 1.5 leaves you
with being able to handle only 600 lbs (272 kg) of tongue
weight. Since tongue weight is usually at least 10 percent
of total loaded trailer weight, you can expect that the
largest trailer your vehicle can properly handle is
6,000 lbs (2 721 kg).
It is important that you make sure your vehicle does not
exceed any of its ratings — GCWR, GVWR, RGAWR,
Maximum Trailer Rating or Tongue Weight. The
only way to be sure you are not exceeding any of
these ratings is to weigh your vehicle and trailer.
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Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires
Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the upper
limit for cold tires. You’ll find these numbers on
the Certification label at the rear edge of the driver’s
door or seeLoading Your Vehicle on page 4-20. Then
be sure you don’t go over the GVW limit for your
vehicle, or the GAWR, including the weight of the trailer
tongue. If you use a weight distributing hitch, make
sure you don’t go over the rear axle limit before
you apply the weight distribution spring bars.
Hitches
It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment.
Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads
are a few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch.
The rear bumper on your vehicle is not intended
for hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or other
bumper-type hitches to it. Use only a frame-mounted
hitch that does not attach to the bumper.
Weight-Distributing Hitches and Weight
Carrying Hitches
When using a weight-distributing hitch, the hitch must be
adjusted so that the distance (A) remains the same both
before and after coupling the trailer to the tow vehicle.
If you use a step-bumper hitch, your bumper could be
damaged in sharp turns. Make sure you have ample
room when turning to avoid contact between the trailer
and the bumper.(A) Body to Ground Distance, (B) Front of Vehicle
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If you’ll be pulling a trailer that, when loaded, will weigh
more than 5,000 lbs (2 270 kg), be sure to use a
properly mounted weight-distributing hitch and sway
control of the proper size. This equipment is very
important for proper vehicle loading and good handling
when you’re driving. You should always use a sway
control if your trailer will weigh more than these limits.
You can ask a hitch dealer/retailer about sway controls.
Will you have to make any holes in the body of your
vehicle when you install a trailer hitch?
If you’re using the wiring provided with the
factory-installed trailering package, you should not
need to make any holes in the body of your vehicle.
However, if you have an aftermarket hitch installed,
you may need to make holes in the body.
If you do, then be sure to seal the holes later when
you remove the hitch. If you don’t seal them, deadly
carbon monoxide (CO) from your exhaust can get into
your vehicle as well as dirt and water. See “Carbon
Monoxide” underEngine Exhaust on page 2-30.Safety Chains
You should always attach chains between your vehicle
and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue
of the trailer to help prevent the tongue from contacting
the road if it becomes separated from the hitch.
Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the
hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow
the manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety
chains and do not attach them to the bumper. Always
leave just enough slack so you can turn with your rig.
Never allow safety chains to drag on the ground.
Trailer Brakes
If your trailer weighs more than 1,000 lbs (450 kg)
loaded, then it needs its own brakes – and they must be
adequate. Be sure to read and follow the instructions
for the trailer brakes so you’ll be able to install,
adjust and maintain them properly.
If your vehicle has StabiliTrak
®, your trailer brake
system cannot tap into the vehicle’s hydraulic brake
system.
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Driving with a Trailer
{CAUTION:
If you have a rear-most window open and you
pull a trailer with your vehicle, carbon monoxide
(CO) could come into your vehicle. You can not
see or smell CO. It can cause unconsciousness
or death. SeeEngine Exhaust on page 2-30.
To maximize your safety when towing a trailer:
Have your exhaust system inspected for
leaks, and make necessary repairs before
starting on your trip.
Keep the rear-most windows closed.
If exhaust does come into your vehicle
through a window in the rear or another
opening, drive with your front, main heating
or cooling system on and with the fan on
any speed. This will bring fresh, outside air
into your vehicle. Do not use the climate
control setting for maximum air because it
only recirculates the air inside your vehicle.
See Climate Control System in the Index.Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.
Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get
to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of
handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer.
And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are
driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly
as responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check all trailer hitch parts and
attachments, safety chains, electrical connector, lamps,
tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric
brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then
apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure
the brakes are working. This lets you check your
electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the
load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer
brakes are still working.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as
you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer.
This can help you avoid situations that require
heavy braking and sudden turns.
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Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when
you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal
longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the
passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand
to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your
hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible,
have someone guide you.
Making Turns
Notice:Making very sharp turns while trailering
could cause the trailer to come in contact with the
vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid
making very sharp turns while trailering.
When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns
than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike
soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects.
Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in
advance.
Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
When you tow a trailer, your vehicle has to have extra
wiring and a heavy-duty turn signal (included in the
optional trailering package).
The arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever
you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up,
the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other drivers
you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument
panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer
are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind
you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s
important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer
bulbs are still working.
Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gearbeforeyou start
down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift
down, you might have to use your brakes so much that
they would get hot and no longer work well.
You can tow in DRIVE (D). You may want to shift the
transmission to THIRD (3) or a lower gear under heavy
loads and/or hilly conditions.
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When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades,
consider the following: Engine coolant will boil at a lower
temperature than at normal altitudes. If you turn your
engine off immediately after towing at high altitude
on steep uphill grades, your vehicle may show signs
similar to engine overheating. To avoid this, let the
engine run while parked (preferably on level ground)
with the automatic transmission in PARK (P) for a
few minutes before turning the engine off. If you do get
the overheat warning, seeEngine Overheating on
page 5-26.
Parking on Hills
{CAUTION:
You really should not park your vehicle, with a
trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes
wrong, your rig could start to move. People
can be injured, and both your vehicle and the
trailer can be damaged.But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s
how to do it:
1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into
PARK (P) yet. Then turn your wheels into the curb if
facing downhill or into traffic if facing uphill.
2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer
wheels.
3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the
regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your
parking brake and then shift to PARK (P).
5. Release the regular brakes.
When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down
while you:
•start your engine,
•shift into a gear, and
•release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the
chocks.
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Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re
pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more
on this. Things that are especially important in trailer
operation are automatic transmission fluid (don’t overfill),
engine oil, axle lubricant, belt, cooling system and brake
system. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the
Index will help you find them quickly. If you’re trailering,
it’s a good idea to review these sections before you start
your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts
are tight.
Trailer Wiring Harness
The optional heavy-duty trailer wiring package includes
a wiring harness, with a seven-pin connector at the
rear of the vehicle and a four-wire harness assembly
under the driver side of the instrument panel. The
four-wire harness assembly comes without a connector.
If your vehicle does not have a trailer hitch, the
seven-wire harness assembly with connector is taped
together and located in a frame pocket at the driver side
rear left corner of the frame.
If your vehicle has a trailer hitch, the seven-wire
harness assembly with connector is attached to a
bracket on the hitch platform. In both cases, the
seven-wire harness has a connector and includes a
30-amp feed wire.
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The seven-wire harness connector contains the following
trailer circuits:
•Light Green: Back-up Lamps (10A fuse)**
•White: Ground
•Dark Blue: Trailer Brake Signal
•Dark Green: Right Rear Stop and Turn Signal*
•Red/Black Stripe: Battery Feed (30A Fuse)
•Brown: Trailer Park Lamp Supply Voltage
(15A fuse)**
•Yellow: Left Rear Stop and Turn Signal *The four-wire harness (without connector) contains the
following circuits:
•Black: Ground
•Red/White: Battery Feed
•Dark Blue: Trailer Brake Signal
•Light Blue: CHMSL/Stoplamp Supply Voltage
* If your vehicle is a cutaway with trailer provisions,
a 15 amp fuse will be shared for both left/stop trailer
turn and right/stop trailer turn signals. However,
the cutaway lighting connector will have a 10 amp
fuse for each signal.
** If your vehicle is a cutaway with trailer provisions,
a 15 amp fuse will be shared for trailer park lamps and
cutaway rear lighting connector park lamps. Also, a
10 amp fuse will be shared for trailer back-up lamps
and cutaway rear lighting connector back-up lamps.
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