tow GMC SAVANA PASSENGER 2010 Repair Manual

How to Add Automatic Transmission
Fluid
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what
kind of transmission fluid to use. SeeRecommended
Fluids and Lubricants on page 7-11.
Using a funnel, add fluid down the transmission dipstick
tube only after checking the transmission fluid while it
is hot. A cold check is used only as a reference. If
the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid
to bring the level up to the HOT area for a hot check.
It does not take much fluid, generally less than one pint
(0.5 L). Do not overfill.
Notice:Use of the incorrect automatic transmission
uid may damage the vehicle, and the damages
may not be covered by the vehicle’s warranty.
Always use the automatic transmission uid listed
inRecommended Fluids and Lubricants on
page 7-11.
•After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as
described under “How to Check Automatic
Transmission Fluid,” earlier in this section.
•When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the
dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle
down to lock the dipstick in place.
Automatic Transmission Fluid
(6-Speed Transmission)
When to Check and Change Automatic
Transmission Fluid
It is usually not necessary to check the transmission
fluid level. The only reason for fluid loss is a
transmission leak or overheating the transmission. If a
small leak is suspected, use the following procedures to
check the fluid level. However, if there is a large leak,
then it may be necessary to have the vehicle towed to a
dealer/retailer service department and have it repaired
before driving the vehicle further.
Change the fluid and filter at the intervals listed in
Scheduled Maintenance on page 7-3, and be sure to
use the transmission fluid listed inRecommended Fluids
and Lubricants on page 7-11.
How to Check Automatic Transmission
Fluid
Because this operation can be difficult, it is
recommended to have this check done at the
dealer/retailer service department, which can monitor
the transmission temperature. The transmission
fluid level increases with temperature. To obtain a highly
accurate fluid level check, the transmission temperature
must be measured.
6-23

3. With foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever
through each gear range, pausing for about
three seconds in each range. When M is reached,
move the selector from M1 through M3. Then,
position the shift lever in P (Park).
4. Let the engine run at idle for two minutes or more.
Then, without shutting Off the engine:
The transmission dipstick
is located near the center
of the engine compartment
and will be labeled with
the graphic shown.
SeeEngine Compartment Overview on page 6-14for
more information on location.
1. Flip the handle up and then pull out the dipstick
and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.
2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and
then pull it back out again.A. COLD Range
B. WARM Range
C. HOT Range
3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower
level. The fluid level must be in the COLD (A) range
for a cold check, transmission temperature 27°C
to 32°C (80°F to 90°F), between the COLD (A) and
HOT (C) range for a WARM (B) check, 50°C to
60°C (122°F to 140°F) or in the HOT (C)
cross-hatched range for a hot check, 71°C to 93°C
(160°F to 200°F). Be sure to keep the dipstick
pointed down to get an accurate reading.
4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the
dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle
down to lock the dipstick in place.
6-25

If No Steam Is Coming From The
Engine Compartment
If an engine overheat warning is displayed but no steam
can be seen or heard, the problem may not be too
serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot
when the vehicle:
•Climbs a long hill on a hot day.
•Stops after high-speed driving.
•Idles for long periods in traffic.
•Tows a trailer. See “Driving on Grades” under
Towing a Trailer on page 5-26.
If the overheat warning is displayed with no sign of
steam:
1. Turn the air off.
2. Turn the heater on to the highest temperature and
to the highest fan speed. Open the windows as
necessary.
3. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in N (Neutral)
while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the
road, shift to P (Park) or N (Neutral) and let
the engine idle.
If the temperature overheat gage is no longer in the
overheat zone or an overheat warning no longer
displays, the vehicle can be driven. Continue to drive
the vehicle slow for about 10 minutes. Keep a safevehicle distance from the car in front of you. If the
warning does not come back on, continue to drive
normally.
If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park the
vehicle right away.
If there is still no sign of steam, push down the
accelerator until the engine speed is about twice as fast
as normal idle speed for at least three minutes while
you are parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the
engine until it cools down.
You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service
help right away.
Engine Fan Noise
Your vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When
the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide
more air to cool the engine. In most everyday driving
conditions, the fan is spinning slower and the clutch is
not fully engaged. This improves fuel economy and
reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer
towing, and/or high outside temperatures, the fan
speed increases as the clutch more fully engages, so
you may hear an increase in fan noise. This is
normal and should not be mistaken as the transmission
slipping or making extra shifts. It is merely the cooling
system functioning properly. The fan will slow down
when additional cooling is not required and the clutch
partially disengages.
6-34

If the vehicle has dual rear wheels and the tread
design for the front tires is different from the
dual rear tires, always use the correct rotation
pattern shown here when rotating the tires.
The dual tires are rotated as a pair and the inside
rear tires become the outside rear tires.
When you install dual wheels, be sure that vent
holes in the inner and outer wheels on each
side are lined up.
Also seeDual Tire Operation on page 6-64for
additional information.
After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front
and rear inflation pressures as shown on the Tire
and Loading Information label. SeeInation - TirePressure on page 6-63andLoading the Vehicle on
page 5-17. Make certain that all wheel nuts are
properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” under
Capacities and Specications on page 6-110.
{WARNING:
Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to
which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts
become loose after time. The wheel could
come off and cause an accident. When you
change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from
places where the wheel attaches to the
vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a
cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure
to use a scraper or wire brush later, if
needed, to get all the rust or dirt off. See
Changing a Flat Tire on page 6-80.
If your vehicle has a Tire Pressure Monitor
System (TPMS), reset the TPMS sensors after
rotating the tires. SeeTire Pressure Monitor
Operation on page 6-66.
Make sure the spare tire is stored securely. Push,
pull, and then try to rotate or turn the tire. If it
moves, tighten the cable. SeeStoring a Flat or
Spare Tire and Tools on page 6-94.
6-71

If a Tire Goes Flat
It is unusual for a tire to blowout while you are driving,
especially if you maintain your vehicle’s tires properly.
If air goes out of a tire, it is much more likely to leak out
slowly. But if you should ever have a blowout, here
are a few tips about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the flat tire creates a drag that pulls
the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the
accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly.
Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to
a stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a
skid and may require the same correction you would
use in a skid. In any rear blowout remove your foot from
the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control
by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may
be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently
brake to a stop, well off the road if possible.{WARNING:
Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do
maintenance or repairs is dangerous without the
appropriate safety equipment and training. If a jack
is provided with the vehicle, it is designed only for
changing a flat tire. If it is used for anything else,
you or others could be badly injured or killed if the
vehicle slips off the jack. If a jack is provided with
the vehicle, only use it for changing a flat tire.
If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use the
jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.
6-79

3. Turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise to lower
the spare tire to the ground. Continue to turn the
wheel wrench until the spare tire can be pulled out
from under the vehicle.
If the spare tire does not lower to the ground, the
secondary latch is engaged causing the tire
not to lower. SeeSecondary Latch System on
page 6-92.
4. When the tire has been lowered, pull the tire toward
you so you can reach the tire retainer and pull it up
through the wheel opening.
If you have a vehicle which was completed from a
cab and chassis, refer to the information from
body supplier/installer.
The spare tire is a full-size tire, like the other tires
on the vehicle.
5. Put the spare tire near the flat tire.
6-84

{WARNING:
Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it
is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose
after time. The wheel could come off and cause
an accident. When changing a wheel, remove any
rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches
to the vehicle. In an emergency, use a cloth or a
paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a
scraper or wire brush later, if needed, to get all the
rust or dirt off. SeeChanging a Flat Tire on
page 6-80.
8. Remove any rust or dirt
from the wheel bolts,
mounting surfaces
and spare wheel.
{WARNING:
Never use oil or grease on bolts or nuts because
the nuts might come loose. The vehicle’s wheel
could fall off, causing a crash.
9. Put the wheel nuts
back on with the
rounded end of the
nuts toward the wheel.
Tighten each wheel
nut by hand until
the wheel is held
against the hub.
6-89

Secondary Latch System
Your vehicle has an underbody-mounted tire hoist
assembly equipped with a secondary latch system. It is
designed to stop the spare tire from suddenly falling
off the vehicle if the cable holding the spare tire is
damaged. For the secondary latch to work, the tire must
be stowed with the valve stem pointing down.
SeeStoring a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools on page 6-94
for instructions on storing the spare tire correctly.
{WARNING:
Before beginning this procedure read all the
instructions. Failure to read and follow the
instructions could damage the hoist assembly and
you and others could get hurt. Read and follow the
instructions listed next.To release the spare tire from the secondary latch:
{WARNING:
Someone standing too close during the procedure
could be injured by the jack. If the spare tire does
not slide off the jack completely, make sure no
one is behind you or on either side of you as you
pull the jack out from under the spare.
1. Check under the vehicle to see if the cable end is
visible.
If the cable is not visible,
start this procedure at
Step 6.
2. Turn the hoist extension counterclockwise until
approximately 6 inches (15 cm) of cable is exposed.
6-92

2. Pull the retaining bar through the center of the
wheel, making sure it is properly attached.
3. Pull the wheel toward the rear of the vehicle,
keeping the cable tight.
4. Put the chisel end of the hoist extension on an
angle through the hole in the rear door frame,
above the bumper.
5. Raise the tire fully against the underside of the
vehicle. Continue turning the wheel wrench until
the tire is secure and the cable is tight. The spare
tire hoist cannot be overtightened.6. Make sure the tire is stored securely. Push, pull (A),
and then try to turn (B) the tire. If the tire moves,
use the wheel wrench to tighten the cable.
You will hear two clicks when the tire is up all
the way.
7. Return the jacking equipment to the proper location.
Secure the items and replace the jack cover.
6-95

Notice:Using abrasive cleaners when cleaning
glass surfaces on the vehicle, could scratch
the glass and/or cause damage to the rear window
defogger. When cleaning the glass on the vehicle,
use only a soft cloth and glass cleaner.
Many cleaners contain solvents that may become
concentrated in the vehicle’s breathing space. Before
using cleaners, read and adhere to all safety instructions
on the label. While cleaning the vehicle’s interior,
maintain adequate ventilation by opening the vehicle’s
doors and windows.
Dust may be removed from small buttons and knobs
using a small brush with soft bristles.
Products that remove odors from the vehicle’s
upholstery and clean the vehicle’s glass can be obtained
from your dealer/retailer.
Do not clean the vehicle using:
•A knife or any other sharp object to remove a soil
from any interior surface.
•A stiff brush. It can cause damage to the vehicle’s
interior surfaces.
•Heavy pressure or aggressive rubbing with a
cleaning cloth. Use of heavy pressure can damage
the interior and does not improve the effectiveness
of soil removal.
•Laundry detergents or dishwashing soaps with
degreasers can leave residue that streaks and
attracts dirt. For liquid cleaners, about 20 drops
per gallon (3.78 L) of water is a good guide.
Use only mild, neutral-pH soaps.
•Too much cleaner that saturates the upholstery.
•Organic solvents such as naptha, alcohol, etc. that
can damage the vehicle’s interior.
Fabric/Carpet
Use a vacuum cleaner with a soft brush attachment
frequently to remove dust and loose dirt. A canister
vacuum with a beater bar in the nozzle may only
be used on floor carpet and carpeted floor mats. For
any soil, always try to remove it first with plain water or
club soda. Before cleaning, gently remove as much
of the soil as possible using one of the following
techniques:
•For liquids: gently blot the remaining soil with a
paper towel. Allow the soil to absorb into the
paper towel until no more can be removed.
•For solid dry soils: remove as much as possible
and then vacuum.
6-97