ESP GMC SIERRA 1997 User Guide

Controlling your vehicle is the key to successful
off-road driving. One of the best ways to control your
vehicle is to control
your speed. Here are some things to
keep in mind.
At higher speeds:
0 you approach things faster and you have less time to
scan the terrain for obstacles.
0 you have less time to react.
0 you have more vehicle bounce when you drive
you’ll need more distance for braking, especially
over
obstacles.
since you’re on an unpaved surface.
When you’re driving off-road, bouncing and
quick changes in direction can
-1 easily throw you
Scanning the Terrain
Off-road driving can take you over many different kinds
of terrain. You need to be familiar with the terrain and
its many different features. Here are some things
to consider.
Su@ace Conditions. Off-roading can take you over
hard-packed dirt, gravel, rocks, grass, sand, mud, snow
or ice. Each of these surfaces affects the steering,
acceleration
and braking of your vehicle in different
ways. Depending upon the kind of surface
you are on,
you may experience slipping, sliding, wheel spinning,
delayed acceleration, poor traction and longer
braking distances.
Surjiuce Obstucles. Unseen or hidden obstacles can be
hazardous.
A rock, log, hole, rut or bump can startle you
if you’re not prepared for them. Often these obstacles are
hidden by grass, bushes, snow or even the rise and fall of
the terrain itself. Here are some things to consider:
out of position. This could cause you to lose
control and crash.
So, whether you’re driving on
or off the road, you and your passengers should
wear safety belts.
0 Does the travel take you uphill or downhill? (There’s
0 Is the path ahead clear?
0 Will the surface texture change abruptly up ahead?
L more discussion of these subjects later.)
0 Will you have to stop suddenly or change
direction quickly?
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When you drive over obstacles or rough terrain, keep a
firm grip
on the steering wheel. Ruts, troughs or other
surface features can jerk the wheel
out of your hands if
you’re not prepared.
When you drive over bumps, rocks, or other obstacles,
your wheels can leave the ground. If this happens, even
with one or two wheels, you can’t control
the vehicle as
well or at all.
Because you will be
on an unpaved surface, it’s
especially important to avoid sudden acceleration,
sudden turns or sudden braking.
Driving on Off-Road Hills
Off-road driving often takes you up, down or across a
hill. Driving safely on hills requires good judgment and
an understanding
of what your vehicle can and can’t do.
There are some hills that simply can’t be driven, no
matter how well built the vehicle.
In
a way, off-road driving requires a different kind of
alertness from driving on paved roads and highways.
There are no road signs, posted speed limits or signal
lights.
You have to use your own good judgment about
what
is safe and what isn’t.
Drinking and driving can be very dangerous on any
road. And this is certainly true for off-road driving. At
the very time you need special alertness and driving
skills, your reflexes, perceptions and judgment can be
affected by even a small amount
of alcohol. You could
have a serious
-- or even fatal -- accident if you drink
and drive or ride with
a driver who has been drinking.
See “Drunken Driving” in the Index.
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Many hills are simply too steep for any vehicle.
If you drive up them, you will stall. If you drive
down them,
you can’t control your speed. If you
drive across them, you will roll over. You could be
seriously injured or killed. If you have any doubt
about the steepness, don’t drive the hill.
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Driving at Night
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Night driving is more dangerous than day driving.
One reason is that some drivers are likely to be
impaired
-- by alcohol or drugs, with night vision
problems, or by fatigue. Here are some tips on night driving.
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
Drive
defensively.
Don't drink and drive.
Adjust your inside rearview mirror to reduce the
glare from headlamps behind you.
Since
you can't see as well, you may need to slow
down and keep more space between you and
other vehicles.
Slow down, especially on higher speed roads.
Your
headlamps can light up only so much road ahead.
In remote areas, watch for animals.
If you're tired, pull off the road in
a safe place
and rest.
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Hydroplaning
Hydroplaning is dangerous. So much water can build up
under your tires that they can actually ride
on the water.
This can happen if the road is wet enough and you’re
going fast enough. When your vehicle
is hydroplaning,
it has little or no contact with the road.
Hydroplaning doesn’t happen often. But it can if your
tires
do not have much tread or if the pressure in one or
more is low. It can happen
if a lot of water is standing on
the road. If you can see reflections from trees, telephone
poles or other vehicles, and raindrops “dimple” the
water’s surface, there could be hydroplaning.
Hydroplaning usually happens at higher speeds. There
just isn’t a hard and fast rule about hydroplaning. The
best advice
is to slow down when it is raining.
Driving Through Deep Standing Water
NOTICE:
If you drive too quickly through deep puddles
or standing water, water can come in through
your engine’s air intake and badly damage your engine. Never drive through water that is slightly
lower than the underbody
of your vehicle. If you
can’t avoid deep puddles or standing water, drive
through them very slowly.
Some Other Rainy Weather Tips
Besides slowing down, allow some extra following
distance. And be especially careful when you pass another vehicle. Allow yourself more clear room
ahead, and be prepared to have your view restricted
by road spray.
0 Have good tires with proper tread depth. (See “Tires” in the Index.)
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- -
A CAJTldN:
Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle.
This can cause deadly
CO (carbon monoxide) gas
to get inside.
CO could overcome you and kill
you. You can’t see it or smell it,
so you might not
know
it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from
around the base of your vehicle, especially
any
that is blocking your exhaust pipe. And check
around again from time to time to be sure snow
doesn’t collect there.
Open
a window just a little on the side of the
vehicle that’s away from the wind. This will help
keep
CO out. Run your engine
only as long as you must. This saves
fuel. When you run the engine, make
it go a little faster
than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly.
This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and
it
keeps the battery (or batteries) charged. You will need a
well-charged battery (or batteries) to restart
the vehicle,
and possibly for signaling later on with your headlamps.
Let the heater run for awhile.
If you have
a diesel engine, you may have to run it at a
higher speed to get enough heat. Then, shut the engine
off and close the window almost all the way to preserve
the heat. Start
the engine again and repeat this only
when
you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. But
do it as little as possible. Preserve the fuel as long as
you
can. To help keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle
and do some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour
or
so until help comes.
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Safety Chains
You should always attach chains between your vehicle
and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue
of the trailer so that the tongue will not drop to the road
if it becomes separated from
the hitch. Instructions
about safety chains may be provided by the hitch
manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the
manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety
chains and do not attach them to
the bumper. Always
leave just enough slack
so you can turn with your rig.
And, never allow safety chains to drag on the ground.
Trailer Brakes
If your trailer weighs more than 1,000 Ibs. (450 kg)
loaded, then it needs its own brakes
-- and they must be
adequate. Be sure
to read and follow the instructions for
the trailer brakes
so you’ll be able to install, adjust and
maintain them properly.
Your trailer brake system can tap into the vehicle’s
hydraulic brake system
only if:
The trailer parts can withstand 3,OOO psi (20 650 Wa)
of pressure.
The trailer’s brake system will use less than 0.02
cubic inch (0.3 cc) of fluid from your vehicle’s
master cylinder. Otherwise, both braking systems
won’t work well.
You could even lose your brakes.
If everything checks out this far, make the brake tap at the
port on the master cylinder that sends the fluid to the rear \
brakes. But don’t use copper tubing for this.
If you do, it
will bend and finally break off. Use steel brake tubing.
Driving with a Trailer
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.
Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get
to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of
handling and braking with the added weight of the
trailer. And always keep
in mind that the vehicle you are
driving is now a
good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive as your vehicle
is by itself.
Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform
(and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector,
lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If
the trailer has
electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and
then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure
the brakes are working. This lets you check your
electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the
load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes
are still working.
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When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parkine
on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down
while you:
Start your engine;
Shift into a gear; and
Release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re
pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more
on this. Things that are especially important
in trailer
operation are automatic transmission fluid (don’t
overfill), engine oil, axle lubricant, belt, cooling system
and brake adjustment. Each
of these is covered in this
manual, and
the Index will help you find them quickly.
If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review these
sections before you start your trip.
Trailer Wiring Harness
A seven-wire harness is stored under the rear end of
your vehicle, between
the frame rails. An electrical
connector will need to be installed at the trailer end of
the harness, by a qualified electrical technician. For
additional trailer wiring and towing information please
consult your
GM dealer. Securely attach the harness to
the trailer, then tape or strap
it to your vehicle’s frame
rail. Be sure you leave it loose enough
so the wiring
won’t bind or break when turning with the trailer, but
not
so loose that it drags on the ground. Store the
harness in its original position. Wrap the harness
together and tie
it neatly so it won’t be damaged. If you
tow
a trailer, your Center High-Mounted Stoplamp
(CHMSL) may not be properly visible from behind.
You
should select a trailer with a CHMSL on it or, if one is
not available, have one installed. See your
GM dealer
about how to connect your vehicle’s wiring
to a
trailer CHMSL.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts
are tight.
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Engine Fan Noise
Your vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When
the clutch is engaged, the fan spi.ns faster to provide
more air
to cool the engine. In most everyday driving
conditions, the fan is spinning slower and the clutch is
not fully engaged. This improves
fuel economy and
reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing and/or high outside temperatures, the fan speed
increases as the clutch more fully engages.
So you may
hear an increase in fan noise. This
is normal and should
not be mistaken as the transmission slipping or making
extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system functioning
properly. The fan will slow down when additional
cooling is not required and the clutch disengages.
You may also hear this
fan noise when you start the engine.
It will
go away as the fan clutch partially disengages.
If a Tire Goes Flat
It’s unusual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving,
especially
if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes
out
of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly.
But if you should ever have
a “blowout,” here are a
few tips about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that
pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the
accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly.
Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to
a stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a
skid and may require the same correction you’d use in
a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from
the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by
steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be
very bumpy and noisy, but
you can still steer. Gently
brake
to a stop -- well off the road if possible.
If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to
use your
jacking equipment
to change a flat tire safely.
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How to Check
Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may
choose to have this
done at your GM dealership
Service Department.
If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions
here,
or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.
NOTICE:
Too much or too little fluid can damage your
transmission.
Too much can mean that some of
the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine
parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Be
sure to get an accurate reading if you check your
transmission fluid.
Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the
transmission fluid level if you have been driving:
0 When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C).
To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal
operating temperature, which
is 180°F to 200 "F
(82°C to 93°C).
Checking Transmission Fluid Hot
Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles
(24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F
(10°C). If it's colder than 50°F ( 10°C), drive the
vehicle
in THIRD (3) until the engine temperature gage
moves and then remains steady for 10 minutes. Then
follow
the hot check procedures.
Checking Transmission Fluid Cold
A cold check is made after the vehicle has been sitting
for eight hours or more with the engine
off and is used
only as a reference. Let the engine run at idle for five
minutes if outside temperatures are 50°F
( 10°C) or
more. If it's colder than
50°F (lO"C), you may have
to idle the engine longer. Should the fluid level be low
during a cold check,
you must perform a hot check
before adding fluid. This will give you a more accurate
reading
of the fluid level.
0 At high speed for quite a while.
0 In heavy traffic -- especially in hot weather.
0 While pulling a trailer.
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I
3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower
level. The fluid level must
be in the COLD area for a
cold check or in the HOT area or cross-hatched area
for a hot check.
4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the
dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle
down to lock the dipstick in place.
How to Add Fluid
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what
kind
of transmission fluid to use. See “Recommended
Fluids and Lubricants”
in the Index. Add
fluid only after checking the transmission fluid
HOT. (A COLD check is used only as a reference.) If the
fluid level is low, add only enough
of the proper fluid to
bring the level up to the
HOT area for a hot check. It
doesn’t take much fluid, generally less than one pint
(0.5 L). Don ’t ove@ZZ.
NOTICE:
We recommend you use only fluid labeled
DEXRON@-111, because fluid with that label is
made especially
for your automatic transmission.
Damage caused by fluid other than DEXRON-111
is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.
After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as
described under
“HOW to Check.”
0 When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the
dipstick back in all
the way; then flip the handle
down to lock the dipstick
in place.
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