air condition GMC SIERRA 1998 User Guide

Ventilation Tips
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Keep the hood and front air inlet free of ice, snow or
any other obstruction (such
as leaves). The heater
and defroster will work far better, reducing the
chance
of fogging the inside of your windows.
When you enter a vehicle
in cold weather, turn the
blower fan to
HI for a few moments before driving.
This helps clear the intake ducts of snow and
moisture, and reduces the chance of fogging the
inside of your windows.
Keep
the air path under the front seats clear of
objects. This helps air
to circulate throughout
your vehicle.
The use of hood air deflectors may adversely
affect
the performance of the heating and air
conditioning system.
Defogging and Defrosting
On cool, humid days, use DEFOG to keep the
windshield and side windows clear. Use
DEFROST to
remove fog
or ice from the windshield in extremely
humid or cold conditions. Use DEFROST with the
temperature knob toward the red area and the fan control
toward
HI.
Rear Window Defogger (If Equipped)
If you see lines running across the rear window, you
have
a rear window defogger. The lines warm the glass.
To turn on the rear window
defogger, press this button
next to the fan control knob.
The rear window defogger will only work if the
ignition switch is turned to
RUN. For best results, clear
the window of as much
snow or ice
as possible first.
The defogger
will shut itself off after several minutes. If
you need additional warming time, press the button
again.
You can turn the defogger off at any time by
pressing the button.
Do not attach a temporary vehicle license, tape or decals
across the defogger grid on the rear window.
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2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables
can reach, but be sure the vehicles aren’t touching
each other. If they are, it could cause a ground
connection
you don’t want. You wouldn’t be able
to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could
damage the electrical systems.
To avoid the possibility
of the vehicles rolling, set
the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved
in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic
transmission in
PARK (P) or a manual transmission
in NEUTRAL (N).
If you have a four-wheel-drive
vehicle, be sure the transfer case is not in
NEUTRAL
(N).
3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug
unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette
lighter or accessory power outlets. Turn
off all lamps
that aren’t needed as well as radios. This will avoid
sparks and help save both batteries. In addition, it
could save your radio!
I NOTICE:
If you leave your radio on, it could be badly
damaged. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by
your warranty.
4. Open the hoods and locate the batteries. Find the
positive
(+) and negative (-) terminals on each battery.
If your vehicle has air conditioning, the auxiliary
electric fan under the hood can start up even
when the engine is not running and can injure
you. Keep hands, clothing and tools
away from
any underhood electric fan.
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If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam,
try this for
a minute or so:
1. If you have an air conditioner, turn it off.
2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan
speed and open the window
as necessary.
3. If you’re in a traffic jam, shift to NEUTRAL (N);
otherwise, shift to the highest gear while
driving
-- AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE (@)
for automatic transmissions.
If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can
drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about
10 minutes.
If the warning doesn’t come back on, you can
drive normally.
If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your
vehicle right away.
If there’s still no sign
of steam, push the accelerator until
the engine speed
is about twice as fdst as normal idle
speed. Bring the engine speed back to normal idle speed
after two or three minutes. Now see if the warning stops.
But then, if you still have the warning, turn ofthe
engine
and get everyone out of the vehicle until it
cools down.
You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service
help right away.
Cooling System -- Gasoline Engines
When you decide it’s safe to lift the hood, here’s what
you’ll see:
A. Coolant Recovery Tank
B. Radiator Pressure Cap
C. Engine Fan(s)
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If your vehicle has air conditioning, the auxiliary
electric engine cooling fan under the hood can
start up even when the engine is not running and
can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools
away from any underhood electric fan.
If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling,
don’t do anything else until it cools down. The
codant level should be at or above the
COLD mark.
If it isn’t, you may have a leak in the radiator hoses,
heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else
in
the cooling system.
Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine
parts, can be very hot. Don’t touch them.
If you
do, you can be burned.
Don’t run the engine if there is a leak.
If you run
the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could
cause an engine fire, and
you could be burned.
Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.
NOTICE:
Engine damage from running your engine
without coolant isn’t covered by your warranty.
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Engine Fan Noise If a Tire Goes Flat
Your vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When
the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide
more air to cool the engine.
In most everyday driving
conditions, the fan is spinning slower and the clutch
is
not fully engaged. This improves fuel economy and
reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading. trailer
towing and/or high outside temperatures, the fan speed
increases as the clutch more
fully engages. So you may
hear an increase
in fan noise. This is normal and should
not be mistaken as the transmission slipping or making
extra shifts.
It is merely the cooling system functioning
properly. The fan
will slow down when additional
cooling
is not required and the clutch disengages.
You may
also hear this fan noise when you start
the engine.
It will go away as the fan clutch
partially disengages. It‘s
unusual for
a tire to “blow out’’ while you’re driving,
especially if you maintain your tires properly.
If air goes
out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly.
But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a
few tips about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire hils, the flat tire will create a drag that
pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the
accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly.
Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to
a stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a
skid and may require the same correction you’d use in
a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from
the accelerator pedal. Get
the vehicle under control by
steering the way you want the vehicle to go.
It may be
very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently
brake to
a stop -- well off the road if possible.
If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your
jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.
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Section 6 Service and Appearance Care
Here you will find information about the care of your vehicle. This section begins with service and fuel information,
and then it shows how to check important fluid and lubricant levels. There is also technical information about your
vehicle, and
a part devoted to its appearance care.
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6-32 Service
Fuel (Gasoline Engine)
Fuels
in Foreign Countries (Gasoline Engines)
Filling Your Tank (Gasoline Engine)
Filling a Portable Fuel Container
Checking Things Under the Hood
Noise Control System
Engine Oil (Gasoline Engine)
Air Cleaner Filter (Gasoline Engine)
Automatic Transmission Fluid
Manual Transmission Fluid
Hydraulic Clutch
Rear Axle
Four-wheel Drive
Engine Coolant Radiator Pressure Cap (Gasoline Engine)
Thermostat
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6-3 3
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6-39
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6-50
6-5
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6-6 1
6-62
6-65 6-69
6-70
6-70
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6-77 6-79 Power
Steering Fluid
Windshield Washer Fluid
Brakes
Battery
Bulb Replacement
Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement
Tires
Appearance Care
Cleaning the Inside
of Your Vehicle
Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle
Appearance Care Materials Chart
Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)
Electrical System Replacement
Bulbs
Capacities and Specifications
Air Conditioning Refrigerants
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Be sure the posted octane is at least 87. If the octane is
less than
87, you may get a heavy knocking noise when
you drive. If it’s bad enough, it can damage your engine.
If you’re using fuel rated at 87 octane or higher and you
hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service. But
don’t worry if you hear a little pinging noise when
you’re accelerating or driving
up a hill. That’s norlnal,
and you don’t have to
buy a higher octane fuel to get rid
of pinging. It’s the heavy, constant knock that means
you have a problem.
If your vehicle is certified to meet California Emission
Standards (indicated on the underhood emission control
label),
it is designed to operate on fuels that meet
California specifications.
If such fuels are not available
in states adopting California emissions standards, your
vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting
federal specifications, but emission control system
performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp
on your instrument
panel may turn on and/or your
vehicle may fail
a smog-check test. If this occurs, return
to your authorized
GM dealer for diagnosis to determine
the cause
of’ fdilure. In the event it is determined that the
cause
of the condition is the type of fuels used, repairs
may not be covered by your warranty.
Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low
emissions contain an octane-enhancing additive called
methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl
(MMT);
ask your service station operator whether or not his fuel
contains MMT. General Motors does not recommend the
use
of such gasolines. If fuels containing MMT are used,
spark plug life may be reduced and your emission
control system performance may be affected. The
malfunction indicator
lamp on your instrument panel
may
turn on. If this occurs, return to your authorized
GM dealer for service.
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Checking Things Under the Hood
I I A CAUTION:
If your vehicle has air conditioning, the auxiliary
engine fan under the hood can start up and
injure you even when the engine is not running.
Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any
underhood electric fan.
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A CAUTION:
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Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and
start a fire. These include liquids like gasoline or
diesel fuel, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield
washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber.
You or others could be burned. Be careful not
to drop or spill things that
will burn onto a
hot engine.
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You need a new tire if any of the following statements
are true:
0 You can see the indicators at three or more places
around the tire.
You can see cord or fabric showing through the
tire’s rubber.
The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged deep
enough to show cord or fabric.
The tire has a bump, bulge or split.
The tire has a puncture, cut or other damage that
can’t be repaired well because of the size or location
of the damage.
Dual Tire Operation
When the vehicle is new, or whenever a wheel, wheel
bolt or wheel
nut is replaced, check the wheel nut
torque after 100, 1,000 and 6’000 miles (160, 1 600 and
10 000 km) of driving. For proper torque, see “Wheel
Nut Torque”
in the Index. The outer
tire
on a dual wheel setup generally wears
Faster than the inner tire. Your tires will wear more
evenly and last longer if
you rotate the tires periodically.
If you’re going to be doing a lot
of driving on
high-crown roads,
you can reduce tire wear by adding
5 psi (35 kPa) to the tire pressure in the outer tires. Be
sure to return to the recommended pressures when
no
longer driving under those conditions. See “Changing a
Flat Tire’’ in the Index for more information.
If you operate your vehicle with a tire that is badly
underinflated, the tire can overheat. An overheated
tire can lose air suddenly or catch fire.
You or
others could be injured. Be sure all tires (including
the spare,
if any) are properly inflated.
Buying New Tires
To find out what kind and size of tires you need, look at
the CertificatiodTire label.
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Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance
The wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced
carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life
and best overall performance.
Scheduled wheel alignment and wheel balancing are not
needed. However,
if you notice unusual tire wear or
your vehicle pulling one way or the other, the alignment
may need to be reset.
If you notice your vehicle
vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your wheels
may need to be rebalanced.
Wheel Replacement
Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked, or badly rusted
or corroded. If wheel nuts keep corning loose, the wheel,
wheel bolts and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the
wheel leaks
air, replace it (except some aluminum
wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your
dealer if any
of these conditions exist.
Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need.
Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying
capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the
same way as the one it replaces.
If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts
or wheel nuts, replace them only with new
GM original equipment
parts. This way, you will be sure to have the
right wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for your vehicle.
~ Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts
or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous.
It could affect the braking and handling of your
vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you
lose control. You could have a collision in which
you or others could be injured. Always use
the correct wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts
for replacement.
~
NOTICE:
The wrong wheel can also cause problems with
bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or
odometer calibration, headlamp aim, 'bumper
height, vehicle ground clearance and tire or tire
chain clearance to the body and chassis.
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