trailer GMC SIERRA 1998 Owner's Manual

Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start
down a long or steep downgrade. If
you don’t shift
down,
you might have to use your brakes so much that
they would
get hot and no longer work well.
On a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce your
speed
to around 45 mph (70 kdh) to reduce the
possibility
of engine and transmission overheating.
If you have an automatic transmission, you can tow in
AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE
(@). You may want to
shift the transmission
to THIRD (3) or, if necessary, a
lower gear selection
if the transmission shifts too often
(e.g., under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions).
If
you have a manual transmission and you are towing a
trailer, it’s better not to
use FIFTH (5) gear. Just drive in
FOURTH
(4) gear (or, as you need to, a lower gear).
When towing at high altitude
on steep uphill grades,
consider the following: Engine coolant
will boil at a
lower temperature than at normal altitudes. If you turn
your engine off immediately after towing
at high altitude
on steep uphill grades, your vehicle may show signs
similar to engine overheating. To avoid this, let the
engine run while parked (preferably on level ground) with
the automatic transmission in
PARK (P) (or the
manual transmission out of gear and the parking brake
applied) for a few minutes before turning the engine
off.
If you do get the overheat warning, see “Engine
Overheating’’ in
the Index.
Parking on Hills
You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer
attached, on a
hill. If something goes wrong, your rig
could start to move. People can be injured, and both
your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged.
But
if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s
how to do it:
1.
2.
3.
4.
Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into
PARK
(P) yet for an automatic transmission, or into
gear for a manual transmission.
Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels.
When the wheel chocks are
in place, release the
regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.
Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking brake and
shift into PARK (P) for an automatic
transmission, or REVERSE (R)
for a manual
transmission.
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5. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle,
be sure the transfer case is in
a drive gear and not
in
NEUTRAL (N).
6. Release the regular brakes.
-
/r CAUTIOIA:
It can be dangerous to get out of your vehicle if
the shift lever is not fully in
PARK (P) with the
parking brake firmly set. Your vehicle can roll.
If you have left the engine running, the vehicle
can move suddenly. You or others could be
injured.
To be sure your vehicle won’t move, even
when you’re on fairly level ground, use the steps
that follow.
If you have four-wheel drive and your transfer
case is in
NEUTRAL (N), your vehicle will be free
to
roll, even if your shift lever is in PARK (P). So,
be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear -- not
in
NEUTRAL (N).
When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parking
on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down
while you:
Start your engine;
Shift into a gear; and
Release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly
until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re
pulling
a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more
on this. Things that are especially important
in trailer
operation are automatic transmission fluid (don’t
overfill), engine
oil, axle lubricant, belt, cooling system
and brake adjustment. Each of these is covered in this
manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly.
If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review these
sections before
you start your trip.
Check periodically
to see that all hitch nuts and bolts
are tight.
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Trailer Wiring Harness
A. Light-Duty Wiring Harness
B. Additional Heavy-Duty Wiring
C. Tie Straps
A eight-wire harness is stored under the rear end of your
vehicle. Five wires (A) are located between the rear
bumper and the spare tire, near the center. This wiring
harnewis tie-strapped to the taillamp and stoplamp
harness. Three wires (B) (light gauge white, blue and
orange) are located at
the rear left hand frame rail. This
harness has a
30 amp battery feed wire and no
connector, and should be wired
by a qualified electrical
technician. After choosing an aftermarket mating
connector pair, have the technician attach one connector
to the eight-wire trailer harness and the other connector
to the wiring harness on the trailer. Be sure that the
wiring harness on the trailer is strapped to the trailer’s
frame and leave
it loose enough so that the wiring
doesn’t bend or break, but not
so loose that it drags on
the ground. The technician can use the following color
code chart when connecting the wiring harness to
your trailer.
0 Brown: Rear Lamps
0 Yellow: Left Stoplamp and Turn Signal
0 Dark Green: Right Stoplamp and Turn Signal
0 White (Heavy Gauge): Ground
0 Light Green: Back-up Lamps
0 White (Light Gauge): Center High-Mounted
Stop Lamp
0 Blue: Auxiliary/Electric Trailer Brake Circuit
0 Orange: Fused Auxiliary Circuit
Store the harness
in its original place. Wrap the harness
together and tie
it neatly so it won’t be damaged.
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Using a Transfer Case Mounted Power
Take-Off (Automatic Transmission)
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
Set the parking brake.
Turn the ignition off.
Shift the transfer case into NEUTRAL
(N).
Shift the transmission into NEUTRAL (N).
Engage the PTO.
If you are going to drive the vehicle. shift the
transfer case into the range you want. Turn
the
ignition to START. Then apply the regular brakes
and release the. parking brake.
Shift the transmission to THIRD
(3) to start the PTO.
Release the regular brakes to drive the vehicle.
Disengaging a Power Take-OFF
1. Turn the ignition off.
2. Put the transmission in PARK (P).
3. Release the PTO
4. Restart the engine.
Step-Bumper Pad
If your vehicle has a rear step bumper, it may be
equipped with
a rear step pad at the center of
the bumper.
If you will be using the
bumper to tow a trailer,
you
must remove the center
cutout circle to install the
trailer ball.
You must also
remove both outer cutouts
to attach the trailer safety chains.
To remove the pad,
lift the
edge of the pad from the
rear of the bumper and
swing it forward. When the
pad releases from the
bumper holes,
lift the
pad off.
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If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine
I
Steam from an overheated engine can burn you
badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away
from the engine
if you see or hear steam coming
from it. Just turn
it off and get everyone away
from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until
there is no sign of steam or coolant before you
open the hood.
CAUTION: (Continued)
I
If you keep driving when your engine is
overheated, the liquids in
it can catch fire. You or
others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if
it overheats, and get out
of the vehicle until the
engine is cool.
NOTICE:
If your engine catches fire because you keep
driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be
badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be
covered by your warranty.
If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine
If you get the overheat warning but see or hear no
steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes
the engine can get a little
too hot when you:
0 Climb a long hill on a hot day.
0 Stop after high-speed driving.
0 Idle for long periods in traffic.
0 Tow a trailer. See “Driving on Grades” in the Index.
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Engine Fan Noise If a Tire Goes Flat
Your vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When
the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide
more air to cool the engine.
In most everyday driving
conditions, the fan is spinning slower and the clutch
is
not fully engaged. This improves fuel economy and
reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading. trailer
towing and/or high outside temperatures, the fan speed
increases as the clutch more
fully engages. So you may
hear an increase
in fan noise. This is normal and should
not be mistaken as the transmission slipping or making
extra shifts.
It is merely the cooling system functioning
properly. The fan
will slow down when additional
cooling
is not required and the clutch disengages.
You may
also hear this fan noise when you start
the engine.
It will go away as the fan clutch
partially disengages. It‘s
unusual for
a tire to “blow out’’ while you’re driving,
especially if you maintain your tires properly.
If air goes
out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly.
But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a
few tips about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire hils, the flat tire will create a drag that
pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the
accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly.
Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to
a stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a
skid and may require the same correction you’d use in
a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from
the accelerator pedal. Get
the vehicle under control by
steering the way you want the vehicle to go.
It may be
very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently
brake to
a stop -- well off the road if possible.
If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your
jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.
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As shown in the chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your
vehicle. However,
you can use SAE 1OW-30 if it’s going
to be
0°F (- 18 “C) or above. These numbers on an oil
container show
its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use
other viscosity oils, such
as SAE 20W-50.
NOTICE:
Use only engine oil with the American Petroleum
Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines “Starburst” symbol. Failure to use the
recommended oil can result in engine damage not
covered by your warranty.
GM Goodwrench@ oil meets all the requirements for
your vehicle.
If you are in an area where the temperature falls below
-20°F (-29°C)’ consider using either an SAE 5W-30
synthetic oil or an
SAE OW-30 oil. Both will provide
easier cold starting and better protection for your engine
at extremely low temperatures.
Engine Oil Additives
Don’t add anything to your oil. Your dealer is ready to
advise if
you think something should be added.
When to Change Engine Oil
If any one of these is true for you, use the short tripkity
maintenance schedule:
Most trips are less than 5 to 10 miles (8 to 16 km).
This is particularly important when outside
temperatures are below freezing.
Most trips include extensive idling (such as frequent
driving
in stop-and-go traffic).
You operate your vehicle in dusty areas or
off-road frequently.
You frequently tow a trailer.
The vehicle is used for delivery service, police, taxi
or other commercial application.
Driving under these conditions causes engine
oil to
break down sooner.
If any one of these is true for your
vehicle,
then you need to change your oil and filter
every
3,000 miles (5 000 km) or 3 months -- whichever
occurs first.
If none of them is true, use the long trip/highway
maintenance schedule. Change the oil and filter every
7,500 miles (12 500 km) or 12 months -- whichever
occurs first. Driving a vehicle with
a fully warmed
engine under highway conditions causes engine
oil to
break down slower.
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Automatic Transmission Fluid
If your vehicle has a diesel engine, see “Automatic
Transmission Fluid”
in the Diesel Supplement.
When to Check and Change
A good time to check your automatic transmission fluid
level is when the engine oil is changed.
Change both the fluid and filter every
50,000 miles
(83
000 km) if the vehicle’s GVWR is over 8,600 or
if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of
these conditions:
In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature
In hilly or mountainous terrain.
When doing frequent trailer towing.
Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service.
regularly
reaches
90°F (32°C) or higher.
If your vehicle’s GVWR is not over 8,600 and you do not
use your vehicle under any
of these conditions, change the
fluid and filter every
100,000 miles (166 000 km).
See “Scheduled Maintenance Services’’ in the Index.
How to Check
Because this operation can be a little difficult, you
may choose to have this done at your
GM dealership
Service Department.
If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions
here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.
NOTICE:
Too much or too little fluid can damage your
transmission.
Too much can mean that some of
the fluid could come
out and fall on hot engine
parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire.
Be
sure to get an accurate reading if you check your
transmission fluid.
Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the
transmission fluid level if you have been driving:
When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C).
At high speed for quite a while.
In heavy traffic -- especially in hot weather.
While pulling a trailer.
To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal
operating temperature, which is
180°F to 200°F (82°C
to 93°C). See “Checking Transmission Fluid Hot“ in
the Index.
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Rear Axle
When to Check and Change Lubricant
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how
often to check
the lubricant and when to change it. See
“Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.
How to Check Lubricant
If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole,
you’ll need to add some lubricant.
Add enough lubricant
to raise the level to the bottom
of the filler plug hole.
What to Use
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what
kind of lubricant
to use. See “Recommended Fluids and
Lubricants”
in the Index.
C3 (3500 HD) Trucks Equipped with Dana
Rear
Axle
Additional rear axle scheduled maintenance is required
on
3500 HD models equipped with Dana rear axles
when they are driven under the following conditions:
Extreme loading (at or near GVWR) or trailer
Operation above 45 mph (70 km/h) for extended
Vehicles used in any of these conditions require the
rear axle lubricant be changed every
30,000 miles
(50 000 km). Fluid capacity is 4.12 quarts (3.9 L).
towing, and:
periods of time.
Four-wheel Drive
Most lubricant checks in this section also apply to
four-wheel-drive vehicles. However, they have two
additional systems that need lubrication.
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Maintenance Schedule
Short Trip/City Definition -- Gasoline Engines
Follow the Short Trip/City Maintenance Schedule if any
one of these conditions is true for your vehicle:
Most trips are less than 5 to 10 miles (8 to I6 km).
This is particularly important when outside
temperatures are below freezing.
Most trips include extensive idling (such as frequent
driving
in stop-and-go traffic).
You operate your vehicle in dusty areas or
off-road frequently.
You frequently tow a trailer.
If the vehicle is used for delivery service, police, taxi
or other commercial application.
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Short Trip/City Intervals -- Gasoline Engines
Every
3,000 Miles (5 000 km): Engine Oil and Filter
Change (or 3 months, whichever occurs first). Chassis
Lubrication (or 3 months, whichever occurs first).
Drive Axle Service (or 3 months, whichever
occurs first).
Every 6,000 Miles (10 000 km): Tire Rotation.
Every 15,000 Miles (25 000 km): Shields and
Underhood Insulation Inspection (GVWR above
8,500 lbs. only). Front Wheel Bearing Repack
(2WD only) (or at each brake relining, whichever
occurs first).
Every 30,000 Miles (50 000 km): Fuel Filter
Every 50,000 Miles (83 000 km): Automatic
Replacement.
Transmission Service (vehicles over
8600 GVWR or
driven under severe conditions only).
Every 60,000 Miles (100 000 km): Engine Accessory
Drive Belt Inspection. Fuel Tank, Cap and Lines
Inspection. Exhaust Gas Recirculation System
Inspection. Evaporative Control System Inspection.
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