steering GMC SIERRA 2003 Owner's Guide

Stalling on an Incline
If your vehicle stalls when you’re crossing an incline, be
sure you (and your passengers) get out on the uphill
side, even if the door there is harder to open. If you get
out on the downhill side and the vehicle starts to roll
over, you’ll be right in its path.
If you have to walk down the slope, stay out of the path
the vehicle will take if it does roll over.{CAUTION:
Getting out on the downhill (low) side of a
vehicle stopped across an incline is
dangerous. If the vehicle rolls over, you could
be crushed or killed. Always get out on the
uphill (high) side of the vehicle and stay well
clear of the rollover path.
Driving in Mud, Sand, Snow or Ice
When you drive in mud, snow or sand, your wheels
won’t get good traction. You can’t accelerate as quickly,
turning is more difficult, and you’ll need longer braking
distances.
It’s best to use a low gear when you’re in mud—the
deeper the mud, the lower the gear. In really deep mud,
the idea is to keep your vehicle moving so you don’t
get stuck.
When you drive on sand, you’ll sense a change in
wheel traction. But it will depend upon how loosely
packed the sand is. On loosely packed sand (as
on beaches or sand dunes) your tires will tend to sink
into the sand. This has an effect on steering,
accelerating and braking. Drive at a reduced speed and
avoid sharp turns or abrupt maneuvers.
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Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst tire traction.
On these surfaces, it’s very easy to lose control.
On wet ice, for example, the traction is so poor that you
will have difficulty accelerating. And if you do get
moving, poor steering and difficult braking can cause
you to slide out of control.
{CAUTION:
Driving on frozen lakes, ponds or rivers can be
dangerous. Underwater springs, currents
under the ice, or sudden thaws can weaken the
ice. Your vehicle could fall through the ice and
you and your passengers could drown. Drive
your vehicle on safe surfaces only.
Driving in Water
Heavy rain can meanashooding, andood waters
demand extreme caution.
Find out how deep the water is before you drive through
it. If it’s deep enough to cover your wheel hubs, axles
or exhaust pipe, don’t try it—you probably won’t
get through. Also, water that deep can damage your
axle and other vehicle parts.If the water isn’t too deep, drive slowly through it.
At faster speeds, water splashes on your ignition system
and your vehicle can stall. Stalling can also occur if
you get your tailpipe under water. And, as long as your
tailpipe is under water, you’ll never be able to start
your engine. When you go through water, remember
that when your brakes get wet, it may take you longer
to stop.
{CAUTION:
Driving through rushing water can be
dangerous. Deep water can sweep your vehicle
downstream and you and your passengers
could drown. If it’s only shallow water, it can
still wash away the ground from under your
tires, and you could lose traction and roll the
vehicle over. Don’t drive through rushing
water.
SeeDriving in Rain and on Wet Roads on page 4-32for
more information on driving through water.
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After Off-Road Driving
Remove any brush or debris that has collected on the
underbody, chassis or under the hood. These
accumulations can be are hazard.
After operation in mud or sand, have the brake linings
cleaned and checked. These substances can cause
glazing and uneven braking. Check the body structure,
steering, suspension, wheels, tires and exhaust
system for damage. Also, check the fuel lines and
cooling system for any leakage.
Your vehicle will require more frequent service due to
off-road use. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule
for additional information.
Driving at Night
Night driving is more dangerous than day driving.
One reason is that some drivers are likely to be
impaired—by alcohol or drugs, with night vision
problems, or by fatigue.
Here are some tips on night driving.
Drive defensively.
Don’t drink and drive.
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What’s the worst time for this?“Wet ice.”Very cold
snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet
ice can be even more trouble because it may offer
the least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it’s
about freezing (32°F; 0°C) and freezing rain begins
to fall. Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand
crews can get there.Whatever the condition—smooth ice, packed, blowing
or loose snow—drive with caution.
Accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction. If
you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and
polish the surface under the tires even more.
Your anti-lock brakes improve your vehicle’s stability
when you make a hard stop on a slippery road.
Even though you have an anti-lock braking system,
you’ll want to begin stopping sooner than you would on
dry pavement. SeeBraking on page 4-5.
Allow greater following distance on any
slippery road.
Watch for slippery spots. The road might bene
until you hit a spot that’s covered with ice. On
an otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in
shaded areas where the sun can’t reach: around
clumps of trees, behind buildings or under bridges.
Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass
may remain icy when the surrounding roads
are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you,
brake before you are on it. Try not to brake
while you’re actually on the ice, and avoid sudden
steering maneuvers.
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Rocking Your Vehicle To Get It Out
First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will
clear the area around your front wheels. Then shift back
and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear,
spinning the wheels as little as possible. Release
the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly
on the accelerator pedal when the transmission is
in gear. By slowly spinning your wheels in the forward
and reverse directions, you will cause a rocking
motion that may free your vehicle. If that doesn’t get
you out after a few tries, you may need to be towed out.
Or, you can use your recovery hooks if your vehicle
has them. If you do need to be towed out, seeTowing
Your Vehicle on page 4-46.
Using the Recovery Hooks
Your vehicle is equipped with recovery hooks. The
hooks are provided at the front of your vehicle. You may
need to use them if you’re stuck off-road and need to
be pulled to some place where you can continue driving.
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Driving with a Trailer
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.
Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get
to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of
handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer.
And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are
driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform
(and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector,
lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has
electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and
then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be
sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your
electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the
load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer
brakes are still working.
While towing a trailer or when exposed to long periods
of sunshine, theoor of the truck bed may become
very warm. Avoid putting items in the truck bed
that might be affected by high ambient temperatures.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as
you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer.
This can help you avoid situations that require
heavy braking and sudden turns.
Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when
you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal
longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the
passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand
to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your
hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible,
have someone guide you.
Your vehicle is equipped with four-wheel steering and if
you use it while backing your trailer the same rules
apply. However, with four-wheel steering your rig will
respond more quickly and it may take additional practice
to get used to backing up with four-wheel steering.
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Service............................................................5-3
Doing Your Own Service Work.........................5-3
Adding Equipment to the Outside of
Your Vehicle..............................................5-4
Fuel................................................................5-4
Gasoline Octane............................................5-4
Gasoline Specifications....................................5-5
California Fuel...............................................5-5
Additives.......................................................5-6
Fuels in Foreign Countries...............................5-6
Filling Your Tank............................................5-7
Filling a Portable Fuel Container.......................5-9
Checking Things Under
the Hood....................................................5-10
Hood Release..............................................5-10
Engine Compartment Overview.......................5-12
Engine Oil...................................................5-13
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter................................5-18
Automatic Transmission Fluid.........................5-20
Engine Coolant.............................................5-23
Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap..................5-26
Engine Overheating.......................................5-26
Cooling System............................................5-29Engine Fan Noise.........................................5-34
Power Steering Fluid.....................................5-34
Windshield Washer Fluid................................5-35
Brakes........................................................5-36
Battery........................................................5-39
Jump Starting...............................................5-40
All-Wheel Drive..............................................5-45
Rear Axle.......................................................5-46
Front Axle......................................................5-47
Bulb Replacement..........................................5-48
Halogen Bulbs..............................................5-48
Headlamps..................................................5-48
Front Turn Signal, Sidemarker and
Daytime Running Lamps.............................5-49
Roof Marker Lamps......................................5-51
Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL)
and Cargo Lamp.......................................5-52
Pickup Box Identification and Fender
Marker Lamps...........................................5-54
Taillamps.....................................................5-54
Replacement Bulbs.......................................5-55
Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement
..............5-56
Section 5 Service and Appearance Care
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Checking Things Under
the Hood
{CAUTION:
Things that burn can get on hot engine parts
and start afire. These include liquids like fuel,
oil, coolant, brakefluid, windshield washer and
otherfluids, and plastic or rubber. You or
others could be burned. Be careful not to drop
or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.
Hood Release
To open the hood do the following:
1. Pull the handle inside
the vehicle located
under and to the left of
the steering wheel.
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A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter
B. Coolant Surge Tank
C. Air Cleaner/Filter Restriction Indicator
D. Engine Oil Dipstick
E. Engine Oil Fill Cap
F. Automatic Transmission Dipstick
G. Fan
H. Remote Negative (−) Terminal (GND)
I. Remote Positive (+) Terminal
J. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir
K. Brake Fluid Reservoir
L. Underhood Fuse Block
M. Battery
N. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir
Engine Oil
If the CHECK OIL LEVEL light appears on the
instrument cluster, it means you need to check your
engine oil level right away. For more information,
see“CHECK OIL LEVEL”underDIC Warnings and
Messages on page 3-51.
You should check your engine oil level regularly; this is
an added reminder.
Checking Engine Oil
It’s a good idea to check your engine oil every time you
get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil
must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.
The engine oil dipstick has a yellow looped handle and
is located on the passenger’s side of the vehicle.
SeeEngine Compartment Overview on page 5-12for
more information on location.
Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to
drain back into the oil pan. If you don’t, the oil
dipstick might not show the actual level.
Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or
cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again,
keeping the tip down, and check the level.
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5. Then replace the
pressure cap. Be sure
the pressure cap is
hand-tight and
fully seated.
Engine Fan Noise
Your vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When
the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide
more air to cool the engine. In most everyday driving
conditions, the fan is spinning slower and the clutch is
not fully engaged. This improves fuel economy and
reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer
towing and/or high outside temperatures, the fan
speed increases as the clutch more fully engages.
So you may hear an increase in fan noise. This
is normal and should not be mistaken as the
transmission slipping or making extra shifts. It is merely
the cooling system functioning properly. The fan will
slow down when additional cooling is not required and
the clutch disengages.You may also hear this fan noise when you start the
engine. It will go away as the fan clutch partially
disengages.
Power Steering Fluid
When to Check Power Steering Fluid
It is not necessary to regularly check power steeringfluid
unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or
you hear an unusual noise. Afluid loss in this system
could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected
and repaired. SeeEngine Compartment Overview
on page 5-12for reservoir location.
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