brake light GMC SIERRA 2006 Owner's Guide

There is something else about drinking and driving that
many people do not know. Medical research shows
that alcohol in a person’s system can make crash
injuries worse, especially injuries to the brain, spinal
cord, or heart. This means that when anyone who has
been drinking — driver or passenger — is in a crash,
that person’s chance of being killed or permanently
disabled is higher than if the person had not been
drinking.
{CAUTION:
Drinking and then driving is very dangerous.
Your reexes, perceptions, attentiveness,
and judgment can be affected by even a small
amount of alcohol. You can have a serious — or
even fatal — collision if you drive after drinking.
Please do not drink and drive or ride with a
driver who has been drinking. Ride home in a
cab; or if you are with a group, designate a
driver who will not drink.
Control of a Vehicle
You have three systems that make your vehicle go where
you want it to go. They are the brakes, the steering, and
the accelerator. All three systems have to do their work at
the places where the tires meet the road.
Sometimes, as when you are driving on snow or ice, it is
easy to ask more of those control systems than the tires
and road can provide. That means you can lose control
of your vehicle. SeeTraction Assist System (TAS) on
page 4-8.
Adding non-GM accessories can affect your vehicle’s
performance. SeeAccessories and Modications
on page 5-4.
Braking
SeeBrake System Warning Light on page 3-41.
Braking action involves perception time and
reaction time.
First, you have to decide to push on the brake pedal.
That is perception time. Then you have to bring up
your foot and do it. That is reaction time.
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Average reaction time is about three-fourths of a second.
But that is only an average. It might be less with one
driver and as long as two or three seconds or more with
another. Age, physical condition, alertness, coordination,
and eyesight all play a part. So do alcohol, drugs, and
frustration. But even in three-fourths of a second,
a vehicle moving at 60 mph (100 km/h) travels
66 feet (20 m). That could be a lot of distance in an
emergency, so keeping enough space between your
vehicle and others is important.
And, of course, actual stopping distances vary greatly
with the surface of the road, whether it is pavement or
gravel; the condition of the road, whether it is wet, dry, or
icy; tire tread; the condition of your brakes; the weight of
the vehicle; and the amount of brake force applied.
Avoid needless heavy braking. Some people drive
in spurts — heavy acceleration followed by heavy
braking — rather than keeping pace with traffic. This is a
mistake. Your brakes may not have time to cool between
hard stops. Your brakes will wear out much faster if you
do a lot of heavy braking. If you keep pace with the traffic
and allow realistic following distances, you will eliminate a
lot of unnecessary braking. That means better braking
and longer brake life.
If your engine ever stops while you are driving, brake
normally but do not pump your brakes. If you do, the
pedal may get harder to push down. If your engine stops,
you will still have some power brake assist.But you will use it when you brake. Once the power assist
is used up, it may take longer to stop and the brake pedal
will be harder to push.
Adding non-GM accessories can affect your vehicle’s
performance. SeeAccessories and Modications
on page 5-4.
Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS)
Your vehicle has anti-lock brakes. ABS is an advanced
electronic braking system that will help prevent a
braking skid.
When you start your engine and begin to drive away, your
anti-lock brake system will check itself. You may hear a
momentary motor or clicking noise while this test is going
on. This is normal.
If there is a problem with
the anti-lock brake system,
this warning light will stay
on. SeeAnti-Lock Brake
System Warning Light on
page 3-42.
Along with ABS, your vehicle has a Dynamic Rear
Proportioning (DRP) system. If there is a DRP problem,
both the brake and ABS warning lights will come on
accompanied by a 10-second chime.
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The lights and chime will come on each time the ignition
is turned on until the problem is repaired. See your dealer
for service.
Let us say the road is wet and you are driving safely.
Suddenly, an animal jumps out in front of you. You
slam on the brakes and continue braking. Here is what
happens with ABS:
A computer senses that wheels are slowing down. If
one of the wheels is about to stop rolling, the computer
will separately work the brakes at each front wheel and
at both rear wheels.The anti-lock system can change the brake
pressure faster than any driver could. The computer
is programmed to make the most of available tire and
road conditions. This can help you steer around the
obstacle while braking hard.
As you brake, your computer keeps receiving updates on
wheel speed and controls braking pressure accordingly.
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When the traction off light is
on, the TAS is off and will
not limit wheel spin. Adjust
your driving accordingly.
The traction off light will come on under the following
conditions:
The Traction Assist System is turned off, either
by pressing the TAS on/off button, located on
the instrument panel, or by turning off the automatic
engagement feature of the TAS.
The transmission is in FIRST (1); TAS will not
operate in this gear. This is normal.
The vehicle is driven on an extremely rough road.
When the vehicle leaves the rough surface, slows
down or stops, the light will go off and TAS will turn
on again. This is normal.
A Traction Assist System, Anti-Lock Brake System
or engine-related problem has been detected and
the vehicle needs service.
If the vehicle has been driven with the TAS system
on for long periods of time, or if the vehicle has
gone through many several high speed braking
maneuvers the system may be automatically
disabled. The system will automatically re-enable
after approximately two minutes of not using
the brakes.
SeeTraction Off Light on page 3-43.
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Driving Downhill
When off-roading takes you downhill, you will want to
consider a number of things:
How steep is the downhill? Will I be able to maintain
vehicle control?
What is the surface like? Smooth? Rough?
Slippery? Hard-packed dirt? Gravel?
Are there hidden surface obstacles? Ruts? Logs?
Boulders?
What is at the bottom of the hill? Is there a hidden
creek bank or even a river bottom with large rocks?
If you decide you can go down a hill safely, then try to
keep your vehicle headed straight down, and use a low
gear. This way, engine drag can help the brakes and they
will not have to do all the work. Descend slowly, keeping
your vehicle under control at all times.
{CAUTION:
Heavy braking when going down a hill can
cause your brakes to overheat and fade. This
could cause loss of control and a serious
accident. Apply the brakes lightly when
descending a hill and use a low gear to
keep vehicle speed under control.
Q:Are there some things I should not do when
driving down a hill?
A:Yes! These are important because if you ignore
them you could lose control and have a serious
accident.
When driving downhill, avoid turns that take you
across the incline of the hill. A hill that is not too
steep to drive down may be too steep to drive
across. You could roll over if you do not drive
straight down.
Never go downhill with the transmission in
NEUTRAL (N), or with the clutch pedal pressed
down with a manual transmission. This is called
“free-wheeling.” The brakes will have to do all the
work and could overheat and fade.
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After Off-Road Driving
Remove any brush or debris that has collected on
the underbody, chassis, or under the hood. These
accumulations can be a re hazard.
After operation in mud or sand, have the brake linings
cleaned and checked. These substances can cause
glazing and uneven braking. Check the body structure,
steering, suspension, wheels, tires, and exhaust system
for damage. Also, check the fuel lines and cooling system
for any leakage.
Your vehicle will require more frequent service due to
off-road use. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule for
additional information.
Driving at Night
Night driving is more dangerous than day driving. One
reason is that some drivers are likely to be impaired — by
alcohol or drugs, with night vision problems, or by fatigue.
Here are some tips on night driving.
Drive defensively.
Do not drink and drive.
Adjust the inside rearview mirror to reduce the glare
from headlamps behind you.
Since you cannot see as well, you may need to
slow down and keep more space between you
and other vehicles.
Slow down, especially on higher speed roads. Your
vehicle’s headlamps can light up only so much road
ahead.
In remote areas, watch for animals.
If you are tired, pull off the road in a safe place
and rest.
No one can see as well at night as in the daytime. But as
we get older these differences increase. A 50-year-old
driver may require at least twice as much light to see the
same thing at night as a 20-year-old.
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The heavier the rain, the harder it is to see. Even if your
windshield wiper blades are in good shape, a heavy rain
can make it harder to see road signs and traffic signals,
pavement markings, the edge of the road, and even
people walking.
It is wise to keep your wiping equipment in good shape
and keep your windshield washer uid reservoir lled with
washer uid. Replace your windshield wiper inserts when
they show signs of streaking or missing areas on the
windshield, or when strips of rubber start to separate
from the inserts.
{CAUTION:
Wet brakes can cause accidents. They will not
work as well in a quick stop and may cause
pulling to one side. You could lose control of
the vehicle.
After driving through a large puddle of water
or a car wash, apply your brake pedal lightly
until your brakes work normally.
Driving too fast through large water puddles or even
going through some car washes can cause problems,
too. The water may affect your brakes. Try to avoid
puddles. But if you cannot, try to slow down before
you hit them.
Hydroplaning
Hydroplaning is dangerous. So much water can build up
under your tires that they can actually ride on the water.
This can happen if the road is wet enough and you are
going fast enough. When your vehicle is hydroplaning,
it has little or no contact with the road.
Hydroplaning does not happen often. But it can if your
tires do not have much tread or if the pressure in one or
more is low. It can happen if a lot of water is standing on
the road. If you can see reections from trees, telephone
poles, or other vehicles, and raindrops dimple the water’s
surface, there could be hydroplaning.
Hydroplaning usually happens at higher speeds. There
just is not a hard and fast rule about hydroplaning.
The best advice is to slow down when it is raining.
Driving Through Deep Standing Water
Notice:If you drive too quickly through deep
puddles or standing water, water can come in
through your engine’s air intake and badly damage
your engine. Never drive through water that is
slightly lower than the underbody of your vehicle.
If you cannot avoid deep puddles or standing water,
drive through them very slowly.
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Making Turns
Notice:Making very sharp turns while trailering
could cause the trailer to come in contact with the
vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid
making very sharp turns while trailering.
When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than
normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders,
curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or
sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.
Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
The arrows on your instrument panel will ash whenever
you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the
trailer lamps will also ash, telling other drivers you’re
about to turn, change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument
panel will ash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are
burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are
seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important to
check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still
working.
Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gearbeforeyou start
down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift down,
you might have to use your brakes so much that they
would get hot and no longer work well.If you have an automatic transmission, you can tow
in DRIVE (D). You may want to shift the transmission to
a lower gear selection if the transmission shifts too
often (e.g., under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions).
You may also want to activate the tow/haul mode if
the transmission shifts too often. SeeTow/Haul Mode
Light on page 3-50.
If you have a 5-speed manual transmission and you are
towing a trailer, it’s better not to use FIFTH (5) gear.
Just drive in FOURTH (4) gear (or, as you need to, a
lower gear).
If you have a 6-speed manual transmission and you are
towing a trailer, it’s better not to use SIXTH (6) gear.
Drive in FIFTH (5) gear (or, as you need to, a lower gear).
When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades,
consider the following: Engine coolant at or near sea level
will boil at a lower temperature than at higher altitudes.
If you turn your engine off immediately after towing at
high altitude on steep uphill grades, your vehicle may
show signs similar to engine overheating. To avoid this,
let the engine run while parked, preferably on level
ground, with the automatic transmission in PARK (P) for
at least ve minutes before turning the engine off. For
manual transmissions, let the engine run while parked,
preferably on level ground, with the transmission out
of gear and the parking brake applied, for at least ve
minutes before turning the engine off. If you do get the
overheat warning, seeEngine Overheating on page 5-37.
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If your trailer is equipped with electric brakes, you can
get a jumper harness (electric trailer brake control)
with a trailer battery feed fuse from your dealer.
If you need to tow a light-duty trailer with a standard
four-way round pin connector, you can also get an
adapter form your dealer.
Heavy-DutyTrailer Wiring Harness
Package
For vehicles equipped with heavy duty trailering, the
harness is connected to the trailer plug mounted to the
hitch platform.The eight-wire harness contains the following trailer
circuits:
Yellow: Left Stop/Turn Signal
Dark Green: Right Stop/Turn Signal
Brown: Taillamps
White: Ground
Light Green: Back-up Lamps
Light Blue: CHMSL*
Red: Battery Feed**
Dark Blue: Trailer Brake
* The Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) wire
is tied next to the trailer wiring harness for use with
a trailer, slide-in camper or cap.
**If you are charging a remote (non-vehicle) battery,
turn on the headlamps to boost the vehicle system
voltage and properly charge the battery.
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Camper/Fifth-Wheel Trailer Wiring Package
The eight-wire camper harness is located under the front
edge of the pickup box on the driver’s side of the vehicle,
attached to the frame bracket. A connector will have to be
added to the wiring harness which connects to the
camper.
The eight-wire harness contains the following
camper/trailer circuits:
Yellow: Left Stop/Turn Signal
Dark Green: Right Stop/Turn Signal
Brown: Taillamps
White: Ground
Light Green: Back-up Lamps
Light Blue: Center High-Mounted
Stoplamp (CHMSL)
Red: Battery Feed
Dark Blue: Trailer BrakeIf your vehicle is equipped with the “Heavy-Duty
Trailering” option, please refer to “Heavy-Duty Trailer
Wiring Package” earlier in this section.
When the camper-wiring harness is ordered without the
heavy-duty trailering package, an eight-wire harness with
a seven-pin connector and separate CHMSL connector
are located at the rear of the vehicle and are tied to the
vehicle’s frame.
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