steering wheel GMC SONOMA 2000 Owner's Guide

4-25
Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst tire traction. On
these surfaces, it's very easy to lose control. On wet ice, for
example, the traction is so poor that you will have difficulty
accelerating. And if you do get moving, poor steering and
difficult braking can cause you to slide out of control.
CAUTION:
Driving on frozen lakes, ponds or rivers can be
dangerous. Underwater springs, currents under
the ice, or sudden thaws can weaken the ice. Your
vehicle could fall through the ice and you and
your passengers could drown. Drive your vehicle
on safe surfaces only.
Driving in Water
Light rain causes no special off-road driving problems.
But heavy rain can mean flash flooding, and flood
waters demand extreme caution.
Find out how deep the water is before you drive through
it. If it's deep enough to cover your wheel hubs, axles or
exhaust pipe, don't try it
-- you probably won't get
through. Also, water that deep can damage your axle
and other vehicle parts.If the water isn't too deep, then drive through it slowly.
At fast speeds, water splashes on your ignition system and
your vehicle can stall. Stalling can also occur if you get
your tailpipe under water. And, as long as your tailpipe is
under water, you'll never be able to start your engine.
When you go through water, remember that when your
brakes get wet, it may take you longer to stop.
CAUTION:
Driving through rushing water can be dangerous.
Deep water can sweep your vehicle downstream
and you and your passengers could drown. If it's
only shallow water, it can still wash away the
ground from under your tires, and you could lose
traction and roll the vehicle over. Don't drive
through rushing water.
See ªDriving Through Waterº in the Index for more
information on driving through water.

4-26 After Off-Road Driving
Remove any brush or debris that has collected
on the underbody, chassis or under the hood.
These accumulations can be a fire hazard.
After operation in mud or sand, have the brake linings
cleaned and checked. These substances can cause
glazing and uneven braking. Check the body structure,
steering, suspension, wheels, tires and exhaust system
for damage. Also, check the fuel lines and cooling
system for any leakage.
Your vehicle will require more frequent service due to
off
-road use. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule for
additional information.
Driving at Night
Night driving is more dangerous than day driving. One
reason is that some drivers are likely to be impaired
-- by
alcohol or drugs, with night vision problems, or by fatigue.
Here are some tips on night driving.

Drive defensively.

Don't drink and drive.

4-37
What's the worst time for this? ªWet ice.º Very cold
snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet
ice can be even more trouble because it may offer the
least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it's about
freezing (32F; 0C) and freezing rain begins to fall.
Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews
can get there.Whatever the condition
-- smooth ice, packed, blowing
or loose snow
-- drive with caution.
Accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction.
If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and
polish the surface under the tires even more.
Your anti
-lock brakes improve your vehicle's stability
when you make a hard stop on a slippery road. Even
though you have an anti
-lock braking system, you'll
want to begin stopping sooner than you would on dry
pavement. See ªAnti
-Lockº in the Index.

Allow greater following distance on any
slippery road.

Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine
until you hit a spot that's covered with ice. On an
otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in
shaded areas where the sun can't reach: around
clumps of trees, behind buildings or under bridges.
Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass may
remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. If
you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you
are on it. Try not to brake while you're actually on
the ice, and avoid sudden steering maneuvers.

4-52 Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand
to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your
hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if
possible, have someone guide you.
Making Turns
NOTICE:
Making very sharp turns while trailering could
cause the trailer to come in contact with the
vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid
making very sharp turns while trailering.
When you're turning with a trailer, make wider turns than
normal. Do this so your trailer won't strike soft shoulders,
curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or
sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.
Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
When you tow a trailer, your vehicle has to have extra
wiring and a heavy
-duty turn signal flasher.
The arrows on your instrument panel will flash
whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly
hooked up, the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other
drivers you're about to turn, change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument panel
will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned
out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are seeing your
signal when they are not. It's important to check occasionally
to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working.
Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start
down a long or steep downgrade. If you don't shift
down, you might have to use your brakes so much that
they would get hot and no longer work well.
If you have an automatic transmission, you should use
THIRD (3) when towing a trailer. Operating your
vehicle in THIRD (3) when towing a trailer will
minimize heat buildup and extend the life of your
transmission. Or, if you have a manual transmission, it's
better not to use FIFTH (5). Just drive in FOURTH (4)
(or, as you need to, a lower gear).

5-18
Engine Fan Noise
This vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When
the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide
more air to cool the engine. In most everyday driving
conditions the clutch is not engaged. This improves fuel
economy and reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle
loading, trailer towing and/or high outside temperatures,
the fan speed increases when the clutch engages. So you
may hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and
should not be mistaken as the transmission slipping or
making extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system
functioning properly. The fan will slow down
when additional cooling is not required and the
clutch disengages.
You may also hear this fan noise when you start the
engine. It will go away as the fan clutch disengages.
If a Tire Goes Flat
It's unusual for a tire to ªblow outº while you're driving,
especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes
out of a tire, it's much more likely to leak out slowly.
But if you should ever have a ªblowout,º here are a few
tips about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that
pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the
accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly.
Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to
a stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a
skid and may require the same correction you'd use in a
skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the
accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by
steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be
very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently
brake to a stop
-- well off the road if possible.
If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your
jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.

5-32 Rocking Your Vehicle To Get It Out
First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will
clear the area around your front wheels. If you have a
four
-wheel drive vehicle, shift into 4HI. Then shift back
and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear
(or with a manual transmission, between FIRST (1) or
SECOND (2) and REVERSE (R)), spinning the wheels
as little as possible. Release the accelerator pedal while
you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal
when the transmission is in gear. By slowly spinning
your wheels in the forward and reverse directions, you
will cause a rocking motion that may free your vehicle.
If that doesn't get you out after a few tries, you may
need to be towed out. Or, you can use your recovery
hooks if your vehicle has them. If you do need to be
towed out, see ªTowing Your Vehicleº in the Index.
Using the Recovery Hooks
Your vehicle may be equipped with recovery hooks.
The recovery hooks are provided at the front of your
vehicle. You may need to use them if you're stuck
off
-road and need to be pulled to some place where you
can continue driving.

6-
6-1
Section 6 Service and Appearance Care
Here you will find information about the care of your vehicle. This section begins with service and fuel information,
and then it shows how to check important fluid and lubricant levels. There is also technical information about your
vehicle, and a part devoted to its appearance care.
6
-2 Service
6
-3 Fuel (Gasoline)
6
-5 Fuel E-85 (85% Ethanol)
6
-6 Fuels in Foreign Countries
6
-7 Filling Your Tank
6
-9 Filling a Portable Fuel Container
6
-10 Checking Things Under the Hood
6
-13 Engine Oil
6
-18 Engine Air Cleaner/Filter
6
-19 Automatic Transmission Fluid
6
-23 Manual Transmission Fluid
6
-24 Hydraulic Clutch
6
-24 Rear Axle
6
-25 Four-Wheel Drive
6
-27 Engine Coolant
6
-30 Radiator Pressure Cap
6
-30 Power Steering Fluid
6
-31 Windshield Washer Fluid6
-32 Brakes
6
-36 Battery
6
-37 Bulb Replacement
6
-43 Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement
6
-45 Tires
6
-53 Appearance Care
6
-54 Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle
6
-56 Care of Safety Belts
6
-57 Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle
6
-60 GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials Chart
6
-61 Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)
6
-61 Service Parts Identification Label
6
-62 Electrical System
6
-67 Replacement Bulbs
6
-67 Capacities and Specifications
6
-69 Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts

6-17
Driving under these conditions causes engine oil to
break down sooner. If any one of these is true for your
vehicle, then you need to change your oil and filter
every 3,000 miles (5 000 km) or 3 months
-- whichever
occurs first.
If none of them is true, use the long trip/highway
maintenance schedule. Change the oil and filter every
7,500 miles (12 500 km) or 12 months
-- whichever
occurs first. Driving a vehicle with a fully warmed
engine under highway conditions causes engine oil to
break down slower.
Remote Oil Filter (Four
-Wheel Drive)
The access door for the
remote oil filter is in the
steering linkage shield
assembly located under the
radiator support. Twist the
screw to unlock or lock the
door. Make sure if you open
the door, it is securely
closed when you
are finished.
What to Do with Used Oil
Did you know that used engine oil contains certain
elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could
even cause cancer? Don't let used oil stay on your skin
for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and
water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly throw
away clothing or rags containing used engine oil.
(See the manufacturer's warnings about the use and
disposal of oil products.)
Used oil can be a real threat to the environment. If you
change your own oil, be sure to drain all free
-flowing oil
from the filter before disposal. Don't ever dispose of oil
by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into
sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead,
recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil.
If you have a problem properly disposing of your used
oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling
center for help.