steering GMC SONOMA 2003 Owner's Guide

{CAUTION:
Driving to the top (crest) of a hill at full speed
can cause an accident.There could be a
drop-off, embankment, cliff, or even another
vehicle.You could be seriously injured or
killed.As you near the top of a hill, slow down
and stay alert.
Q:What should I do if my vehicle stalls, or is
about to stall, and I can’t make it up the hill?
A:If this happens, there are some things you should
do, and there are some things you must not do.
First, here’s what youshoulddo:
Push the brake pedal to stop the vehicle and keep
it from rolling backwards. Also, apply the parking
brake.
If your engine is still running, shift the transmission
to REVERSE (R), release the parking brake, and
slowly back down the hill in REVERSE (R).
If your engine has stopped running, you’ll need to
restart it. With the brake pedal pressed and the
parking brake still applied, shift the transmission to
PARK (P) (or shift to neutral if your vehicle has
a manual transmission) and restart the engine.Then, shift to REVERSE (R), release the parking
brake, and slowly back down the hill as straight as
possible in REVERSE (R).
As you are backing down the hill, put your left hand
on the steering wheel at the 12 o’clock position.
This way, you’ll be able to tell if your wheels
are straight and maneuver as you back down.
It’s best that you back down the hill with your wheels
straight rather than in the left or right direction.
Turning the wheel too far to the left or right
will increase the possibility of a rollover.
Here are some things youmust notdo if you stall,
or are about to stall, when going up a hill.
Never attempt to prevent a stall by shifting into
NEUTRAL (N) (or pressing the clutch, if you have a
manual transmission) to“rev-up”the engine and
regain forward momentum. This won’t work.
Your vehicle will roll backwards very quickly and
you could go out of control.
Instead, apply the regular brake to stop the
vehicle. Then apply the parking brake. Shift to
REVERSE (R), release the parking brake,
and slowly back straight down.
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Driving in Mud, Sand, Snow or Ice
When you drive in mud, snow or sand, your wheels
won’t get good traction. You can’t accelerate as quickly,
turning is more difficult, and you’ll need longer braking
distances.
It’s best to use a low gear when you’re in mud—the
deeper the mud, the lower the gear. In really deep mud,
the idea is to keep your vehicle moving so you don’t
get stuck.
When you drive on sand, you’ll sense a change in
wheel traction. But it will depend upon how loosely
packed the sand is. On loosely packed sand (as
on beaches or sand dunes) your tires will tend to sink
into the sand. This has an effect on steering,
accelerating and braking. Drive at a reduced speed
and avoid sharp turns or abrupt maneuvers.Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst tire traction.
On these surfaces, it’s very easy to lose control. On
wet ice, for example, the traction is so poor that you will
have difficulty accelerating. And if you do get moving,
poor steering and difficult braking can cause you to slide
out of control.
{CAUTION:
Driving on frozen lakes, ponds or rivers can be
dangerous.Underwater springs, currents
under the ice, or sudden thaws can weaken the
ice.Your vehicle could fall through the ice and
you and your passengers could drown.Drive
your vehicle on safe surfaces only.
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Driving in Water
Heavy rain can meanashooding, andood waters
demand extreme caution.
Find out how deep the water is before you drive through
it. If it’s deep enough to cover your wheel hubs, axles
or exhaust pipe, don’t try it—you probably won’t
get through. Also, water that deep can damage your
axle and other vehicle parts.
If the water isn’t too deep, drive slowly through it. At faster
speeds, water splashes on your ignition system and your
vehicle can stall. Stalling can also occur if you get your
tailpipe under water. And, as long as your tailpipe is
under water, you’ll never be able to start your engine.
When you go through water, remember that when your
brakes get wet, it may take you longer to stop.
{CAUTION:
Driving through rushing water can be
dangerous.Deep water can sweep your vehicle
downstream and you and your passengers
could drown.If it’s only shallow water, it can
CAUTION: (Continued)
CAUTION: (Continued)
still wash away the ground from under your
tires, and you could lose traction and roll the
vehicle over.Don’t drive through rushing
water.
SeeDriving in Rain and on Wet Roads on page 4-28for
more information on driving through water.
After Off-Road Driving
Remove any brush or debris that has collected on the
underbody, chassis or under the hood. These
accumulations can be are hazard.
After operation in mud or sand, have the brake linings
cleaned and checked. These substances can cause
glazing and uneven braking. Check the body structure,
steering, suspension, wheels, tires and exhaust
system for damage. Also, check the fuel lines and
cooling system for any leakage.
Your vehicle will require more frequent service due to
off-road use. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule
for additional information.
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Driving on Snow or Ice
Most of the time, those places where your tires meet
the road probably have good traction.
However, if there is snow or ice between your tires and
the road, you can have a very slippery situation.
You’ll have a lot less traction or“grip”and will need to
be very careful.
What’s the worst time for this?“Wet ice.”Very cold
snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet
ice can be even more trouble because it may offerthe least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it’s
about freezing (32°F; 0°C) and freezing rain begins
to fall. Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand
crews can get there.
Whatever the condition—smooth ice, packed, blowing
or loose snow—drive with caution.
Accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction.
If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and
polish the surface under the tires even more.
Your anti-lock brakes improve your vehicle’s stability
when you make a hard stop on a slippery road.
Even though you have an anti-lock braking system,
you’ll want to begin stopping sooner than you would on
dry pavement. SeeBraking on page 4-5.
Allow greater following distance on any slippery road.
Watch for slippery spots. The road might bene until
you hit a spot that’s covered with ice. On an
otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in
shaded areas where the sun can’t reach: around
clumps of trees, behind buildings or under bridges.
Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass
may remain icy when the surrounding roads are
clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake
before you are on it. Try not to brake while you’re
actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering
maneuvers.
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If You Are Stuck: In Sand, Mud,
Ice or Snow
In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you will need
to spin the wheels, but you don’t want to spin your wheels
too fast. The method known as“rocking”can help you get
out when you’re stuck, but you must use caution.
{CAUTION:
If you let your tires spin at high speed, they
can explode, and you or others could be
injured. And, the transmission or other parts of
the vehicle can overheat. That could cause an
engine compartment fire or other damage.
When you’re stuck, spin the wheels as little as
possible. Don’t spin the wheels above 35 mph
(55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.
Notice:Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of
your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the
wheels too fast while shifting your transmission
back and forth, you can destroy your transmission.
For information about using tire chains on your
vehicle, seeTire Chains on page 5-66.
Rocking Your Vehicle To Get It Out
First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will
clear the area around your front wheels. If you have a
four-wheel-drive vehicle, shift into 4HI. Then shift
back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward
gear (or with a manual transmission, between FIRST (1)
or SECOND (2) and REVERSE (R)), spinning the
wheels as little as possible. Release the accelerator
pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator
pedal when the transmission is in gear. By slowly
spinning your wheels in the forward and reverse
directions, you will cause a rocking motion that may free
your vehicle. If that doesn’t get you out after a few
tries, you may need to be towed out. Or, you can use
your recovery hooks if your vehicle has them. If you do
need to be towed out, seeTowing Your Vehicle on
page 4-42.
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In rare cases when it’s unavoidable and your vehicle
must be towed with two wheels on the ground, the
propeller shaft to axle yoke orientation should be marked
and the propeller shaft removed following the applicable
service manual removal/installation procedure. See
Service Publications Ordering Information on page 7-9.
Dust or dirt can enter the back of the transmission
through the opening created by removing the propeller
shaft if proper protection is not provided. Also, check
the transmissionuid level before driving the vehicle.
Use the following steps to dolly tow your vehicle:
1. Put the front wheels on a dolly.
2. Put the vehicle in PARK (P).
3. Set the parking brake and then remove the key.
4. Disconnect the propshaft as described above.
5. Clamp the steering wheel in a straight-ahead
position with a clamping device designed for towing.
6. Release the parking brake.Be sure to use the proper towing equipment designed
for recreational vehicle towing. Follow the instructions for
the towing equipment.
{CAUTION:
Shifting a four-wheel-drive vehicle’s transfer
case into NEUTRAL can cause your vehicle to
roll even if the transmission is in Park (P) for
an automatic transmission, or if your vehicle is
in gear, for a manual transmission. You or
others could be injured. Make sure the parking
brake isfirmly set before you shift the transfer
case to NEUTRAL.
If your vehicle has four-wheel-drive it cannot be dolly
towed. A four-wheel-drive vehicle must be towed
byatbed.
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Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when
you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal
longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the
passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand
to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your
hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible,
have someone guide you.
Making Turns
Notice:Making very sharp turns while trailering
could cause the trailer to come in contact with the
vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid
making very sharp turns while trailering.
When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns
than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike
soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects.
Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in
advance.
Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
When you tow a trailer, your vehicle has to have extra
wiring and a heavy-duty turn signalasher.
The arrows on your instrument panel willash whenever
you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up,
the trailer lamps will alsoash, telling other drivers
you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument
panel willash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer
are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind
you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s
important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer
bulbs are still working.
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Service............................................................5-3
Doing Your Own Service Work.........................5-3
Adding Equipment to the Outside of
Your Vehicle..............................................5-4
Fuel................................................................5-4
Gasoline Octane............................................5-4
Gasoline Specifications....................................5-5
California Fuel...............................................5-5
Additives.......................................................5-5
Fuels in Foreign Countries...............................5-6
Filling Your Tank............................................5-6
Filling a Portable Fuel Container.......................5-8
Checking Things Under
the Hood......................................................5-8
Hood Release................................................5-9
Engine Compartment Overview.......................5-10
Engine Oil...................................................5-13
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter................................5-18
Automatic Transmission Fluid
.........................5-20
Manual Transmission Fluid
.............................5-23
Hydraulic Clutch
...........................................5-24Engine Coolant.............................................5-25
Radiator Pressure Cap..................................5-27
Engine Overheating.......................................5-28
Cooling System............................................5-30
Engine Fan Noise.........................................5-36
Power Steering Fluid.....................................5-37
Windshield Washer Fluid................................5-38
Brakes........................................................5-39
Battery........................................................5-42
Jump Starting...............................................5-43
Rear Axle.......................................................5-47
Four-Wheel Drive............................................5-48
Front Axle......................................................5-49
Bulb Replacement..........................................5-50
Halogen Bulbs..............................................5-50
Headlamps..................................................5-50
One-Piece Front Turn Signal Lamps................5-52
Two-Piece Front Turn Signal Lamps................5-53
Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL).........5-54
Taillamps.....................................................5-55
Replacement Bulbs.......................................5-55
Section 5 Service and Appearance Care
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A. Battery
B. Coolant Recovery Tank
C. Automatic Transmission Dipstick (If Equipped)
D. Engine Oil Fill Cap and Dipstick
E. Power Steering ReservoirF. Brake Master Cylinder
G. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter
H. Engine Compartment Fuse Block
I. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir
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When you open the hood on the 4300 V6 engine, you’ll see:
A. Battery
B. Coolant Recovery Tank
C. Engine Oil Dipstick
D. Engine Oil Fill
E. Automatic Transmission Dipstick (If Equipped)F. Power Steering Reservoir
G. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir
H. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter
I. Engine Compartment Fuse Block
J. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir
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