change wheel GMC YUKON 2001 User Guide

4-29 Driving in Mud, Sand, Snow or Ice
When you drive in mud, snow or sand, your wheels won't
get good traction. You can't accelerate as quickly, turning
is more difficult, and you'll need longer braking distances.
It's best to use a low gear when you're in mud
-- the
deeper the mud, the lower the gear. In really deep mud,
the idea is to keep your vehicle moving so you don't
get stuck.
When you drive on sand, you'll sense a change in wheel
traction. But it will depend upon how loosely packed the
sand is. On loosely packed sand (as on beaches or sand
dunes) your tires will tend to sink into the sand. This has
an effect on steering, accelerating and braking. You may
want to reduce the air pressure in your tires slightly
when driving on sand. This will improve traction.
Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst tire traction.
On these surfaces, it's very easy to lose control. On wet
ice, for example, the traction is so poor that you will
have difficulty accelerating. And if you do get moving,
poor steering and difficult braking can cause you to slide
out of control.
CAUTION:
Driving on frozen lakes, ponds or rivers can be
dangerous. Underwater springs, currents under
the ice, or sudden thaws can weaken the ice.
Your vehicle could fall through the ice and you
and your passengers could drown. Drive your
vehicle on safe surfaces only.
Driving in Water
Light rain causes no special off-road driving problems.
But heavy rain can mean flash flooding, and flood
waters demand extreme caution.
Find out how deep the water is before you drive through
it. If it's deep enough to cover your wheel hubs, axles or
exhaust pipe, don't try it
-- you probably won't get
through. Also, water that deep can damage your axle
and other vehicle parts.

5-17
Engine Fan Noise
Your vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When
the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide
more air to cool the engine. In most everyday driving
conditions, the fan is spinning slower and the clutch is
not fully engaged. This improves fuel economy and
reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer
towing and/or high outside temperatures, the fan speed
increases as the clutch more fully engages. So you may
hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and should
not be mistaken as the transmission slipping or making
extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system functioning
properly. The fan will slow down when additional
cooling is not required and the clutch disengages.
You may also hear this fan noise when you start
the engine. It will go away as the fan clutch
partially disengages.
If a Tire Goes Flat
It's unusual for a tire to ªblow outº while you're driving,
especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes
out of a tire, it's much more likely to leak out slowly.
But if you should ever have a ªblowout,º here are a
few tips about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that
pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off
the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly.
Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake
to a stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like
a skid and may require the same correction you'd use
in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from
the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by
steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be
very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently
brake to a stop
-- well off the road if possible.
If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your
jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.

5-18
Changing a Flat Tire
If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage
by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard
warning flashers.
CAUTION:
Changing a tire can cause an injury. The vehicle
can slip off the jack and roll over you or other
people. You and they could be badly injured.
Find a level place to change your tire. To help
prevent the vehicle from moving:
1. Set the parking brake firmly.
2. Put an automatic transmission
shift lever in PARK (P) or shift a
manual transmission to FIRST (1)
or REVERSE (R).
3. Turn off the engine.
4. Put the wheel blocks at the front and
rear of the tire farthest away from the
one being changed. That would be the
tire on the other side of the vehicle, at
the opposite end.The following steps will tell you how to use the jack and
change a tire.

5-27
3. Remove all the wheel
nuts and take off the
flat tire.
4. Remove any rust or dirt
from the wheel bolts,
mounting surfaces
and spare wheel.
CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to
which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts
become loose after a time. The wheel could come
off and cause an accident. When you change a
wheel, remove any rust or dirt from the places
where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an
emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel
to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire
brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or
dirt off.
CAUTION:
Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If you
do, the nuts might come loose. Your wheel could
fall off, causing a serious accident.

6-36
NOTICE:
Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads
could result in costly brake repair.
Some driving conditions or climates may cause a
brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly
applied. This does not mean something is wrong with
your brakes.
Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help
prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect
brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the
proper sequence to GM torque specifications.
Brake linings should always be replaced as complete
axle sets.
See ªBrake System Inspectionº in Section 7 of this
manual under Part C ªPeriodic Maintenance Inspections.º
Brake Pedal Travel
See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to
normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal
travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble.
Brake Adjustment
Every time you make a brake stop, your disc brakes
adjust for wear.
Replacing Brake System Parts
The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many
parts have to be of top quality and work well together
if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your
vehicle was designed and tested with top
-quality GM
brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking
system
-- for example, when your brake linings wear
down and you have to have new ones put in
-- be sure
you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you
don't, your brakes may no longer work properly.
For example, if someone puts in brake linings that
are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your
front and rear brakes can change
-- for the worse.
The braking performance you've come to expect can
change in many other ways if someone puts in the
wrong replacement brake parts.

6-47
CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which
it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose
after a time. The wheel could come off and cause
an accident. When you change a wheel, remove
any rust or dirt from places where the wheel
attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency,
you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this;
but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later,
if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off.
See ªChanging a Flat Tireº in the Index.
When It's Time for New Tires
One way to tell when it's
time for new tires is to
check the treadwear
indicators, which will
appear when your tires have
only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or
less of tread remaining.
You need a new tire if any of the following statements
are true:

You can see the indicators at three or more places
around the tire.

You can see cord or fabric showing through the
tire's rubber.

The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged deep
enough to show cord or fabric.

The tire has a bump, bulge or split.

The tire has a puncture, cut or other damage that
can't be repaired well because of the size or location
of the damage.

7-18 At Least Twice a Year
Restraint System Check
Make sure the safety belt reminder light and all your
belts, buckles, latch plates, retractors and anchorages are
working properly. Look for any other loose or damaged
safety belt system parts. If you see anything that might
keep a safety belt system from doing its job, have it
repaired. Have any torn or frayed safety belts replaced.
Also look for any opened or broken air bag coverings,
and have them repaired or replaced. (The air bag system
does not need regular maintenance.)
Wiper Blade Check
Inspect wiper blades for wear or cracking. Replace blade
inserts that appear worn or damaged or that streak or
miss areas of the windshield. Also see ªWiper Blades,
Cleaningº in the Index.
Spare Tire Check
At least twice a year, after the monthly inflation check
of the spare tire determines that the spare is inflated to
the correct tire inflation pressure, make sure that the
spare tire is stored securely. Push, pull, and then try to
rotate or turn the tire. If it moves, use the wheel
wrench/ratchet to tighten the cable. See ªStoring the
Spare Tire and Toolsº in the Index.Engine Air Cleaner Filter Restriction
Indicator Check
Your vehicle has an indicator located on the air cleaner
in the engine compartment that lets you know when the
air cleaner filter is dirty and needs to be changed. Check
indicator at least twice a year or when your engine oil is
changed, whichever occurs first. See ªAir Cleanerº in
the Index for more information. Inspect your air cleaner
filter restriction indicator more often if the vehicle is
used in dusty areas or under off road conditions.
Weatherstrip Lubrication
Silicone grease on weatherstrips will make them last
longer, seal better, and not stick or squeak. Apply
silicone grease with a clean cloth. During very cold,
damp weather more frequent application may be
required. See ªRecommended Fluids and Lubricantsº
in the Index.
Automatic Transmission Check
Check the transmission fluid level; add if needed.
See ªAutomatic Transmission Fluidº in the Index.
A fluid loss may indicate a problem. Check the system
and repair if needed.

7-23 Throttle System Inspection
Inspect the throttle system for interference or binding,
and for damaged or missing parts. Replace parts as
needed. Replace any components that have high effort
or excessive wear. Do not lubricate accelerator and
cruise control cables.
Transfer Case and Front Axle
(Four-Wheel Drive) Inspection
Every 12 months or at engine oil change intervals, check
front axle and transfer case and add lubricant when
necessary. A fluid loss could indicate a problem; check
and have it repaired, if needed. On manual shift transfer
case, oil the control lever pivot point. Check vent hose
at transfer case for kinks and proper installation. More
frequent lubrication may be required on off
-road use.
Brake System Inspection
Inspect the complete system. Inspect brake lines and
hoses for proper hook
-up, binding, leaks, cracks,
chafing, etc. Inspect disc brake pads for wear and
rotors for surface condition. Inspect other brake parts,
including calipers, parking brake, etc. You may need
to have your brakes inspected more often if your
driving habits or conditions result in frequent braking.