towing GMC YUKON 2003 Owner's Guide

Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.
Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get
to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of
handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer.
And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are
driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform
(and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector,
lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has
electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and
then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be
sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your
electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the
load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer
brakes are still working.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as
you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer.
This can help you avoid situations that require
heavy braking and sudden turns.
Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when
you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal
longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the
passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand
to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your
hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible,
have someone guide you.
If your vehicle is equipped with four-wheel steering and
if you use it while backing your trailer the same rules
apply. However, with four-wheel steering your rig
will respond more quickly and it may take additional
practice to get used to backing up with four-wheel
steering.
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Making Turns
Notice:Making very sharp turns while trailering
could cause the trailer to come in contact with the
vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid
making very sharp turns while trailering.
When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns
than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike
soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects.
Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in
advance.
Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
The arrows on your instrument panel willash whenever
you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up,
the trailer lamps will alsoash, telling other drivers
you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument
panel willash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer
are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind
you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s
important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer
bulbs are still working.
Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gearbeforeyou start
down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift
down, you might have to use your brakes so much that
they would get hot and no longer work well.
You can tow in DRIVE (D). You may want to shift the
transmission to THIRD (3) or, if necessary, a lower
gear selection if the transmission shifts too often
(e.g., under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions).
You may also want to activate the tow/haul mode if the
transmission shifts too often. See“Tow/Haul Mode”
for more information.
When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades,
consider the following: Engine coolant will boil at a lower
temperature than at normal altitudes. If you turn your
engine off immediately after towing at high altitude
on steep uphill grades, your vehicle may show signs
similar to engine overheating. To avoid this, let the
engine run while parked (preferably on level ground)
with the automatic transmission in PARK (P) for a
few minutes before turning the engine off. If you do get
the overheat warning, seeEngine Overheating on
page 5-29.
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When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down
while you:
start your engine,
shift into a gear, and
release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the
chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re
pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more
on this. Things that are especially important in trailer
operation are automatic transmissionuid (don’t overll),
engine oil, axle lubricant, belts, cooling system and brake
system. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the
Index will help yound them quickly. If you’re trailering,
it’s a good idea to review these sections before you start
your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts
are tight.
Trailer Wiring Harness
Your vehicle is equipped with the following wiring
harnesses for towing a trailer.
Basic Trailer Wiring
The trailer wiring harness, with a seven-pin connector,
is located at the rear of the vehicle and is tied to
the vehicle’s frame. The harness connector can be
plugged into a seven-pin universal heavy-duty trailer
connector available through your dealer.
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The seven-wire harness contains the following trailer
circuits:
Yellow: Left Stop/Turn Signal
Dark Green: Right Stop/Turn Signal
Brown: Taillamps
White: Ground
Light Green: Back-up Lamps
Red: Battery Feed
Dark Blue: Trailer Brake
Heavy-Duty Trailer Wiring Harness
Package
Your vehicle is equipped with the seven-wire trailer
towing harness. This harness with a seven-pin universal
trailer connector is attached to a bracket on the hitch
platform.
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Automatic Transmission Fluid
When to Check and Change
A good time to check your automatic transmissionfluid
level is when the engine oil is changed.
Change both thefluid andfilter every 50,000 miles
(83 000 km) if the vehicle’s GVWR is over 8,600 or if
the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these
conditions:
•In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature
regularly reaches 90°F (32°C) or higher.
•In hilly or mountainous terrain.
•When doing frequent trailer towing.
•Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery
service.
If your vehicle’s GVWR is not over 8,600 and you do
not use your vehicle under any of these conditions,
change thefluid andfilter every 100,000 miles
(166 000 km).
SeePart A: Scheduled Maintenance Services on
page 6-4.
How to Check
Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may
choose to have this done at the dealership service
department.
If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions
here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.
Notice:Too much or too littleuid can damage
your transmission. Too much can mean that some
of theuid could come out and fall on hot engine
part or exhaust system parts, starting are.
Too littleuid could cause the transmission to
overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you
check your transmissionuid.
Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the
transmissionfluid level if you have been driving:
•When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C).
•At high speed for quite a while.
•In heavy traffic–especially in hot weather.
•While pulling a trailer.
To get the right reading, thefluid should be at normal
operating temperature, which is 180°Fto200°F
(82°Cto93°C).
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Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap
SeeEngine Compartment
Overview on page 5-12for
more information on
location.
The coolant surge tank pressure cap must be fully
installed on the coolant surge tank.
Notice:Your pressure cap is a pressure-type cap
and must be tightly installed to prevent coolant loss
and possible engine damage from overheating.
See“Capacities and Specications”for more
information.
Engine Overheating
You willfind a coolant temperature gage on your
vehicle’s instrument panel. SeeEngine Coolant
Temperature Gage on page 3-46. In addition, you will
find a LOW COOLANT LEVEL, ENGINE OVERHEATED
and a REDUCED ENGINE POWER message in the
DIC on the instrument panel. SeeDriver Information
Center (DIC) on page 3-53.
Overheated Engine Protection
Operating Mode (V8 Engines Only)
If an overheated engine condition exists and the
REDUCED ENGINE POWER message is displayed, an
overheat protection mode which alternatesfiring
groups of cylinders helps prevent engine damage. In
this mode, you will notice a loss in power and engine
performance. This operating mode allows your vehicle to
be driven to a safe place in an emergency. Driving
extended miles (km) and/or towing a trailer in the
overheat protection mode should be avoided.
Notice:After driving in the overheated engine
protection operating mode, to avoid engine damage,
allow the engine to cool before attempting any repair.
The engine oil will be severely degraded. Repair the
cause of coolant loss, change the oil and reset the oil
life system. See“Engine Oil”in the Index.
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If No Steam Is Coming From Your
Engine
An overheat warning, along with a low coolant message,
can indicate a serious problem. SeeLow Coolant
underDIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-64.
If you get an engine overheat warning with no low
coolant message, but see or hear no steam, the problem
may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can
get a little too hot when you:
•Climb a long hill on a hot day.
•Stop after high-speed driving.
•Idle for long periods in traffic.
•Tow a trailer. SeeTowing a Trailer on page 4-61.
If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try
this for a minute or so:
1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in neutral while
stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road. Shift
to park or neutral and let the engine idle.
2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan
speed and open the window as necessary.If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can
drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes.
If the warning doesn’t come back on, you can drive
normally.
If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your
vehicle right away.
If there’s still no sign of steam, you can push down the
accelerator until the engine speed is about twice as
fast as normal idle speed for at least three minutes while
you’re parked. If you still have the warning,turn off
the engine and get everyone out of the vehicleuntil it
cools down. Also, seeOverheated Engine Protection
Operating Modelisted previously in this section.
You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service
help right away.
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6. Then replace the
pressure cap. Be sure
the pressure cap is
hand-tight and
fully seated.Engine Fan Noise
Your vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When
the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide
more air to cool the engine. In most everyday driving
conditions, the fan is spinning slower and the clutch is
not fully engaged. This improves fuel economy and
reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer
towing and/or high outside temperatures, the fan
speed increases as the clutch more fully engages. So
you may hear an increase in fan noise. This is
normal and should not be mistaken as the transmission
slipping or making extra shifts. It is merely the cooling
system functioning properly. The fan will slow down
when additional cooling is not required and the clutch
disengages.
You may also hear this fan noise when you start the
engine. It will go away as the fan clutch partially
disengages.
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50,000 Miles (83 000 km)
❑Change automatic transmissionfluid andfilter if the
vehicle’s GVWR is over 8600 lbs or if the vehicle is
mainly driven under one or more of these conditions:
In heavy city traffic where the outside
temperature regularly reaches 90°F (32°C) or
higher.
In hilly or mountainous terrain.
When doing frequent trailer towing.
Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery
service.
If you do not use your vehicle under any of these
conditions, change the fluid and filter at 100,000 miles
(166 000 km).
❑Change transfer case uid.
52,500 Miles (87 500 km)
❑Check rear/front axle uid level and add uid as
needed. Check constant velocity joints and axle seals
for leaking.
❑Rotate tires. SeeTire Inspection and Rotation on
page 5-61for proper rotation pattern and additional
information.(See footnote +.)
60,000 Miles (100 000 km)
❑Check rear/front axle uid level and add uid as
needed. Check constant velocity joints and axle seals
for leaking.
❑Rotate tires. SeeTire Inspection and Rotation on
page 5-61for proper rotation pattern and additional
information.(See footnote +.)
❑Replace fuel lter.An Emission Control Service.
(See footnote †.)
❑Replace engine air cleaner lter on vehicles without
a restriction indicator. If equipped with a change
indicator, inspect the indicator. If necessary, replace
the lter. If vehicle is driven in dusty/dirty conditions,
inspect the change indicator (if equipped) at every
engine oil change. SeeEngine Air Cleaner/Filter on
page 5-21for more information.An Emission
Control Service. (See footnote †.)
❑Inspect Evaporative Control System. Check all fuel
and vapor lines and hoses for proper hook-up,
routing and condition. Check that the purge valve
works properly, if equipped. Replace as needed.An
Emission Control Service. (See footnote †.)
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97,500 Miles (162 500 km)
❑Check rear/front axleuid level and adduid as
needed. Check constant velocity joints and axle seals
for leaking.
❑Rotate tires. SeeTire Inspection and Rotation on
page 5-61for proper rotation pattern and additional
information.(See footnote +.)
100,000 Miles (166 000 km)
❑Inspect spark plug wires.An Emission Control
Service.
❑Replace spark plugs.An Emission Control Service.
❑Change automatic transmissionuid andlter if
the vehicle’s GVWR is over 8,600 lbs or if the vehicle
is mainly driven under one or more of these
conditions:
In heavy city traffic where the outside
temperature regularly reaches 90°F (32°C) or
higher.
In hilly or mountainous terrain.When doing frequent trailer towing.
Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery
service.
❑If you haven’t used your vehicle under severe service
conditions listed previously and, therefore, haven’t
changed your automatic transmissionuid, change
both theuid andlter.
❑Change transfer caseuid.
❑Except 8.1L V8 Engine: Inspect Positive Crankcase
Ventilation (PCV) valve.An Emission Control
Service.
150,000 Miles (240 000 km)
❑Drain,ush and rell cooling system (or every
60 months since last service, whichever occursrst).
SeeEngine Coolant on page 5-26for what to use.
Inspect hoses. Clean radiator, condenser, pressure
cap and neck. Pressure test the cooling system
and pressure cap.An Emission Control Service.
❑Inspect engine accessory drive belt.An Emission
Control Service.
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