wheel GMC YUKON 2005 Manual PDF

Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost
all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine
again and repeat this only when you feel really
uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as
possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can. To help
keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle and do
some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or so until
help comes.
If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand,
Mud, Ice or Snow
In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you will
need to spin the wheels, but you do not want to
spin your wheels too fast. The method known as rocking
can help you get out when you are stuck, but you
must use caution.
{CAUTION:
If you let your tires spin at high speed, they can
explode, and you or others could be injured.
And, the transmission or other parts of the
vehicle can overheat. That could cause an
engine compartment re or other damage.
When you are stuck, spin the wheels as little as
possible. Do not spin the wheels above
35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the
speedometer.
Notice:Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of
your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the
wheels too fast while shifting your transmission
back and forth, you can destroy your transmission.
For more information about using tire chains on your
vehicle, seeTire Chains on page 5-75.
4-49

Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out
First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That
will clear the area around your front wheels. If you have
a four-wheel-drive vehicle, shift into 4HI or 4LO. If
your vehicle has the Traction Assist System (TAS), you
should turn it off by pressing the TAS on/off button. If
your vehicle has the StabiliTrak
®System, turn the
StabiliTrak®System off by pressing the
StabiliTrak®button so that the STABILITY SYSTEM
DISABLED and TRACTION OFF lights are illuminated
on the instrument panel cluster. Then shift back and
forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear,
spinning the wheels as little as possible. Release the
accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the
accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear.
By slowly spinning your wheels in the forward and
reverse directions, you will cause a rocking motion that
may free your vehicle. If that does not get you out
after a few tries, you may need to be towed out. Or, you
can use your recovery hooks if your vehicle has
them. If you do need to be towed out, seeTowing Your
Vehicle on page 4-62.
Recovery Hooks
Your vehicle may be equipped with recovery hooks. The
hooks are provided at the front of your vehicle. You may
need to use them if you are stuck off-road and need to be
pulled to some place where you can continue driving.
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In order to calculate the amount of weight any front
accessory, such as a snow plow, is adding to the front
axle, use the following formula:
(W x (A + W.B.)) /W.B.= Weight the accessory is adding
to the front axle.
Where:
W = Weight of added accessory
A = Distance that the accessory is
in front of the front axle
W.B. = Vehicle WheelbaseFor example, adding a 700 lb (318 kg) snow plow
actually adds more than 700 lbs (318 kg) to the front
axle. Using the formula, if the snow plow is 4 ft (122 cm)
in front of the front axle and the wheel base is
10 ft (305 cm), then:
W = 700 lb (318 kg)
A = 4 ft (122 cm)
W.B. = 10 ft (305 cm)
(W x (A + W.B.))/W.B. = (700 x (4 + 10))/10 =
980 lbs (445 kg)
So, if your vehicle’s front axle reserve capacity is more
than 980 lbs (445 kg), you could add the snow plow
without exceeding the front GAWR.
4-59

Towing
Towing Your Vehicle
Consult your dealer or a professional towing service if
you need to have your disabled vehicle towed. See
Roadside Assistance Program on page 7-5.
If you want to tow your vehicle behind another vehicle
for recreational purposes (such as behind a motorhome),
see “Recreational Vehicle Towing” following.
Recreational Vehicle Towing
Recreational vehicle towing means towing your vehicle
behind another vehicle – such as behind a motorhome.
The two most common types of recreational vehicle
towing are known as dinghy towing, towing your vehicle
with all four wheels on the ground, and dolly towing,
towing your vehicle with two wheels on the ground and
two wheels up on a device known as a “dolly”.
With the proper preparation and equipment, many
vehicles can be towed in these ways. See “Dinghy
Towing” and “Dolly Towing”, following.Here are some important things to consider before you
do recreational vehicle towing:
What’s the towing capacity of the towing vehicle?
Be sure you read the tow vehicle manufacturer’s
recommendations.
How far will you tow? Some vehicles have
restrictions on how far and how long they can tow.
Do you have the proper towing equipment?
See your dealer or trailering professional for
additional advice and equipment recommendations.
Is your vehicle ready to be towed? Just as you
would prepare your vehicle for a long trip, you’ll
want to make sure your vehicle is prepared to be
towed. SeeBefore Leaving on a Long Trip on
page 4-42.
Dinghy Towing
Two-Wheel-Drive Vehicles
Notice:If you tow a two-wheel-drive vehicle with all
four wheels on the ground, the transmission could be
damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your
warranty. Do not tow a two-wheel-drive vehicle with
all four wheels on the ground.
Two-wheel-drive vehicles should not be towed with all
four wheels on the ground. Two-wheel-drive
transmissions have no provisions for internal lubrication
while being towed.
4-62

Four-Wheel-Drive Vehicles (NR4 and NP8)
Use the following procedure to tow your vehicle:
1. Shift the transmission to PARK (P).
2. Turn the engine off, but leave the ignition on.
3. Firmly set the parking brake.
4. Securely attach the vehicle being towed to the tow
vehicle.
{CAUTION:
Shifting a four-wheel-drive vehicle’s transfer
case into NEUTRAL can cause your vehicle to
roll even if the transmission is in PARK (P).
You or others could be injured. Make sure the
parking brake is rmly set before you shift the
transfer case to NEUTRAL.
5. Shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL (N). See
Four-Wheel Drive on page 2-27orAll-Wheel
Drive with StabiliTrak
®on page 2-31for the proper
procedure to select the NEUTRAL (N) position
for your vehicle.
6. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle
being towed is rmly attached to the towing
vehicle.
7. Turn the ignition off.
4-63

Dolly Towing
Two-Wheel-Drive Vehicles
Notice:If you tow a two-wheel-drive vehicle with
the rear wheels on the ground, the transmission
could be damaged. The repairs would not be
covered by your warranty. Never tow your vehicle
with the rear wheels on the ground.
Two-wheel-drive vehicles should not be towed with the
rear wheels on the ground. Two-wheel-drive
transmissions have no provisions for internal lubrication
while being towed.
Two-wheel-drive vehicles can be towed on a dolly with
the front wheels on the ground provided that the wheels
are straight and the steering column has been locked.
Four-Wheel-Drive Vehicles
If your vehicle is equipped with StabiliTrak®,itisnot
designed to be dolly towed. If you need to tow your
vehicle, see “Dinghy Towing” earlier in this section.If your vehicle is not equipped with StabiliTrak®, use the
following procedure to tow your vehicle:
1. Drive the vehicle up onto the tow dolly.
2. Shift the transmission to PARK (P).
3. Turn the engine off, but leave the ignition on.
4. Firmly set the parking brake.
5. Securely attach the vehicle being towed to the
tow dolly.
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{CAUTION:
Shifting a four-wheel-drive vehicle’s transfer
case into NEUTRAL can cause your vehicle to
roll even if the transmission is in PARK (P).
You or others could be injured. Make sure the
parking brake is rmly set before you shift the
transfer case to NEUTRAL.
6. Shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL. See
Four-Wheel Drive on page 2-27for the proper
procedure to select the NEUTRAL position for your
vehicle.
7. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle
being towed is rmly attached to the towing vehicle.
8. Turn the ignition off and lock the steering column.
Level Control
Automatic Level Control
The automatic level control rear suspension is available
on C/K 1500 vehicles and comes as a part of the
Autoride
®suspension, if equipped.
This type of level control is fully automatic and will
provide a better leveled riding position as well as better
handling under a variety of passenger and loading
conditions. An air compressor connected to the rear
shocks will raise or lower the rear of the vehicle
to maintain proper vehicle height. The system is
activated when the ignition key is turned to RUN and
will automatically adjust vehicle height thereafter.
The system may exhaust (lower vehicle height) for up to
ten minutes after the ignition key has been turned off.
You may hear the air compressor operating when
the height is being adjusted.
If a self-equalizing hitch is being used, it is
recommended to allow the shocks to inate, thereby
leveling the vehicle prior to adjusting the hitch.
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Autoride®
If equipped, the Autoride®feature will provide a superior
vehicle ride and handling under a variety of passenger
and loading conditions.
The system is fully automatic and uses a computer
controller to continuously monitor vehicle speed, wheel
to body position, lift/dive and steering position of the
vehicle. The controller then sends signals to each shock
absorber to independently adjust the damping level to
provide the optimum vehicle ride.
Autoride
®also interacts with the tow/haul switch that,
when engaged, will provide additional control of the
shock absorbers. This additional control results in better
ride and handling characteristics when the vehicle is
loaded or towing a trailer. SeeTow/Haul Mode Light on
page 3-53for more information.
Trailer Recommendations
You must subtract your hitch loads from the Cargo
Weight Rating (CWR) for your vehicle. CWR is the
maximum weight of the load your vehicle can carry. It
doesn’t include the weight of the people inside. But you
can gure about 150 lbs. (68 kg) for each seat. The total
cargo load must not be more than your vehicle’s CWR.
Weigh your vehicle with the trailer attached, so that you
won’t go over the GVWR or GAWR. If you are using
a weight-distributing hitch, weigh the vehicle without the
spring bars in place.
You’ll get the best performance if you spread out the
weight of your load the right way, and if you choose the
correct hitch and trailer brakes.
For more information, seeTowing a Trailer on page 4-67.
4-66

Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.
Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get
to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of
handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer.
And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are
driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check all trailer hitch parts and
attachments, safety chains, electrical connector, lamps,
tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric
brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then
apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure
the brakes are working. This lets you check your
electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the
load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer
brakes are still working.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as
you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer.
This can help you avoid situations that require
heavy braking and sudden turns.
Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when
you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal
longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the
passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand
to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your
hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible,
have someone guide you.
If your vehicle is equipped with four-wheel steering and
if you use it while backing your trailer the same rules
apply. However, with four-wheel steering your rig
will respond more quickly and it may take additional
practice to get used to backing up with four-wheel
steering.
4-75

Parking on Hills
{CAUTION:
You really should not park your vehicle, with a
trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes
wrong, your rig could start to move. People
can be injured, and both your vehicle and the
trailer can be damaged.
But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s
how to do it:
1. Apply your regular brake, but don’t shift into
PARK (P) yet.
2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer
wheels.
3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the
regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your
parking brake and shift into PARK (P).
5. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure the
transfer case is in a drive gear and not in
NEUTRAL.
6. Release the regular brakes.
{CAUTION:
It can be dangerous to get out of your vehicle
if the shift lever is not fully in PARK (P) with
the parking brake rmly set. Your vehicle
can roll.
If you have left the engine running, the vehicle
can move suddenly. You or others could be
injured. To be sure your vehicle will not move,
even when you are on fairly level ground, use
the steps that follow.
Always put the shift lever fully in PARK (P)
with the parking brake rmly set.
If the transfer case on four-wheel-drive
vehicles is in NEUTRAL, your vehicle will be
free to roll, even if your shift lever is in
PARK (P). So, be sure the transfer case is in a
drive gear — not in NEUTRAL.
4-77