change wheel HUMMER H2 2006 User Guide

Approaching a Hill
When you approach a hill, you need to decide if it is
one of those hills that is just too steep to climb, descend,
or cross. Steepness can be hard to judge. On a very
small hill, for example, there may be a smooth, constant
incline with only a small change in elevation where
you can easily see all the way to the top. On a large hill,
the incline may get steeper as you near the top, but
you may not see this because the crest of the hill
is hidden by bushes, grass, or shrubs.
Here are some other things to consider as you approach
a hill:
Is there a constant incline, or does the hill get
sharply steeper in places?
Is there good traction on the hillside, or will the
surface cause tire slipping?
Is there a straight path up or down the hill so you
will not have to make turning maneuvers?
Are there obstructions on the hill that can block your
path, such as boulders, trees, logs, or ruts?
What is beyond the hill? Is there a cliff, an
embankment, a drop-off, a fence? Get out and
walk the hill if you do not know. It is the smart way
to nd out.
Is the hill simply too rough? Steep hills often have
ruts, gullies, troughs and exposed rocks because
they are more susceptible to the effects of erosion.
Driving Uphill
Once you decide you can safely drive up the hill, you
need to take some special steps:
Use transmission and transfer case low gear and
get a rm grip on the steering wheel.
Get a smooth start up the hill and try to maintain
your speed. Do not use more power than you
need, because you do not want your wheels to start
spinning or sliding.
Let the traction system work to control any wheel
slippage. The traction control system allows for
moderate wheel spin with some capability to dig in
and power up the hill.
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Stalling on an Incline
If your vehicle stalls when you are crossing an incline,
be sure you, and any passengers, get out on the
uphill side, even if the door there is harder to open. If
you get out on the downhill side and the vehicle starts to
roll over, you will be right in its path.
If you have to walk down the slope, stay out of the path
the vehicle will take if it does roll over.{CAUTION:
Getting out on the downhill (low) side of a
vehicle stopped across an incline is
dangerous. If the vehicle rolls over, you could
be crushed or killed. Always get out on the
uphill (high) side of the vehicle and stay well
clear of the rollover path.
Driving in Mud, Sand, Snow, or Ice
When you drive in mud, snow, or sand, your wheels will
not get good traction. You cannot accelerate as quickly,
turning is more difficult, and you will need longer braking
distances.
It is best to use a low gear when you are in mud — the
deeper the mud, the lower the gear. In really deep
mud, the idea is to keep your vehicle moving so you do
not get stuck. Be careful to keep mud from building
up and washing onto the engine cooling system.
When you drive on sand, you will sense a change in
wheel traction. But it will depend upon how loosely
packed the sand is. On loosely packed sand, such as
on beaches or sand dunes, your tires will tend to
sink into the sand. This has an effect on steering,
accelerating, and braking. Drive at a reduced speed and
avoid sharp turns or abrupt maneuvers.
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After Off-Road Driving
Remove any brush or debris that has collected on the
underbody, chassis, or under the hood. These
accumulations can be a re hazard.
After operation in mud or sand, have the brake linings
cleaned and checked. These substances can cause
glazing and uneven braking. Check the engine and oil
coolers for mud accumulation. Thoroughly and carefully
clean these devices to allow proper cooling. Check
the body structure, steering, suspension, wheels, tires,
and exhaust system for damage. Also, check the
fuel lines and cooling system for any leakage.
Your vehicle will require more frequent service due to
off-road use. See the Maintenance Schedule for
additional information.
Assist Steps
Your vehicle may be equipped with removable side steps.
Remove the steps prior to off-roading to give your
vehicle more ground clearance and to prevent damage
to the vehicle from the side steps dragging and/or
catching on obstacles.
Notice:Do not drive off-road with the side steps
attached to your vehicle. You can damage the side
steps and/or your vehicle’s frame if they get caught
or drag against an obstacle. This damage would not
be covered by your vehicle’s warranty. Always
remove the side steps prior to any off-road driving.
U-Type Side Steps
The following instructions show how to install the
optional U-type steps. If you want to remove them, just
reverse the instructions:
1. Start with the side step brackets pointing up and
away from you, or just make sure the HUMMER
logo faces up.
2. For the front step, use the rst and third brackets
on the vehicle from the front tire. For the rear step,
use the rst and third brackets on the vehicle
from the rear tire.
You will notice that the side steps have pins on
both sides of the step brackets. This is because the
steps are interchangeable between front/back
and the driver/passenger sides of the vehicle. Use
the pins as follows:
Driver Side:Look at the side step with the
HUMMER logo facing you. You will use the pins
which are on the right side of each side step
bracket. This works for the front or rear of
the vehicle.
Passenger Side:Look at the side step with the
HUMMER logo facing you. You will use the pins
which are on the left side of each side step
bracket. This works for the front or rear of
the vehicle.
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Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand
to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your
hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible,
have someone guide you.
Making Turns
Notice:Making very sharp turns while trailering
could cause the trailer to come in contact with the
vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid
making very sharp turns while trailering.
When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than
normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders,
curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or
sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.
Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
The arrows on your instrument panel will ash whenever
you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up,
the trailer lamps will also ash, telling other drivers
you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument
panel will ash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer
are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind
you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s
important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer
bulbs are still working.
Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gearbeforeyou start
down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift
down, you might have to use your brakes so much that
they would get hot and no longer work well.
You can tow in DRIVE (D). You may want to shift the
transmission to THIRD (3) or, if necessary, a lower gear
selection if the transmission shifts too often (e.g.,
under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions).
You may also want to activate the tow/haul mode if
the transmission shifts too often. See “Tow/Haul
Mode” earlier.
When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades,
consider the following: Engine coolant will boil at a lower
temperature than at normal altitudes. If you turn your
engine off immediately after towing at high altitude
on steep uphill grades, your vehicle may show signs
similar to engine overheating. To avoid this, let the
engine run while parked (preferably on level ground)
with the automatic transmission in PARK (P) for a
few minutes before turning the engine off. If you do get
the overheat warning, seeEngine Overheating on
page 5-27.
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How to Check Lubricant
To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a
level surface.
When the differential is cold, the proper level is from
5/8 inch to 1-5/8 inch (15 mm to 40 mm) below the
bottom of the ller plug hole, located on the rear axle.
Add only enough uid to reach the proper level.
What to Use
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what
kind of lubricant to use. SeeRecommended Fluids
and Lubricants on page 6-12.
Four-Wheel Drive
Transfer Case
It is not necessary to regularly check transfer case uid
unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an
unusual noise. A uid loss could indicate a problem.
Have it inspected and repaired.
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how
often to change the lubricant. SeeScheduled
Maintenance on page 6-4.
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Front Turn Signal and
Parking Lamps
To replace a front turn signal or parking lamp bulb, do
the following:
1. Open the hood. SeeHood Release on page 5-11
for more information.
2. Locate the bulb you need to change.
3. Turn the bulb socket
counterclockwise and
remove it from the
lamp housing.
4. Pull the bulb from the bulb socket.
5. Install the new bulb into the bulb socket.
6. Reinstall the bulb socket into the lamp housing and
turn it clockwise until it locks.
Daytime Running Lamps (DRL)
To replace a daytime running lamp bulb, do
the following:
1. Locate the lamp
assembly behind the
front bumper. It is
easiest to come in from
the side of the
vehicle through the
wheel opening.
2. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and remove
it from the lamp housing.
3. Remove the bulb from the bulb socket.
4. Install the new bulb into the bulb socket.
5. Reinstall the bulb socket into the lamp housing and
turn it clockwise until it locks.
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After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and
rear ination pressures as shown on the tire and loading
information label. SeeLoading Your Vehicle on
page 4-55andInation - Tire Pressure on page 5-59,
for more information. Make certain that all wheel
nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque”
underCapacities and Specications on page 5-124.
{CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to
which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts
become loose after a time. The wheel could
come off and cause an accident. When you
change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from
places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle.
In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a
paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a
scraper or wire brush later, if needed, to get all
the rust or dirt off. SeeChanging a Flat Tire on
page 5-70.
When It Is Time for New Tires
One way to tell when it is
time for new tires is to
check the treadwear
indicators, which will
appear when your tires
have only 1/16 inch
(1.6 mm) or less of tread
remaining. Some
commercial truck tires may
not have treadwear
indicators.
You need a new tire if any of the following statements
are true:
You can see the indicators at three or more places
around the tire.
You can see cord or fabric showing through the
tire’s rubber.
The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged
deep enough to show cord or fabric.
The tire has a bump, bulge, or split.
The tire has a puncture, cut, or other damage that
cannot be repaired well because of the size or
location of the damage.
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A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a
skid and may require the same correction you would
use in a skid. In any rear blowout remove your foot from
the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control
by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may
be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently
brake to a stop, well off the road if possible.
{CAUTION:
Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do
maintenance or repairs is dangerous without
the appropriate safety equipment and training.
The jack provided with your vehicle is designed
only for changing a at tire. If it is used for
anything else, you or others could be badly
injured or killed if the vehicle slips off the jack.
Use the jack provided with your vehicle only for
changing a at tire.
If a tire goes at, the next part shows how to use the
jacking equipment to change a at tire safely.
Changing a Flat Tire
If a tire goes at, avoid further tire and wheel damage
by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your
hazard warning ashers.
{CAUTION:
Changing a tire can be dangerous. The vehicle
can slip off the jack and roll over or fall on you
or other people. You and they could be badly
injured or even killed. Find a level place to
change your tire. To help prevent the vehicle
from moving:
1. Set the parking brake rmly.
2. Put the shift lever in PARK (P).
3. Be sure the transfer case is in a drive
gear—not in NEUTRAL.
4. Turn off the engine and do not restart
while the vehicle is raised.
5. Do not allow passengers to remain in
the vehicle.
To be even more certain the vehicle will not
move, you can put blocks at the front and rear
of the tire farthest away from the one being
changed. That would be the tire on the other
side, at the opposite end of the vehicle.
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When you have a at tire, use the following example as a
guide to assist you in the placement of wheel blocks.
The following steps will tell you next how to use the jack
and change a tire.
Removing the Spare Tire and
Tools (SUT)
Your vehicle is equipped with either jack A or jack B and it
is stored in the rear cargo compartment on the
passenger’s side of the vehicle. The tools for jack A are
also stored in the rear cargo compartment. If your vehicle
has jack B, the tools are stored under the rear
passenger’s seat.
Removing Jack A and Tools (SUT)
To remove the cover, unlock it and then pull the
cover off.
Remove the tool kit/rst aid kit to gain access to the tire
changing equipment.
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4. Open the tool bag. You will nd the following
tools needed to remove the spare tire and change
a at tire:
A. Jack Handle
B. Jack Handle Extension (Used for Rear Flats Only)
C. Wheel Wrench
D. Ratchet
Before proceeding, be sure to set the wheel blocks at
the appropriate tires as previously shown.Removing Jack B and Tools (SUT)
To remove the cover, unlock it and then pull the
cover off.
Remove the tool kit/rst aid kit to gain access to the tire
changing equipment. Jack A Tools
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