steering HUMMER H3 2006 Owner's Manual

When you drive on sand, you will sense a change in
wheel traction. But it will depend upon how loosely
packed the sand is. On loosely packed sand, such as
on beaches or sand dunes, your tires will tend to
sink into the sand. This has an effect on steering,
accelerating, and braking. Drive at a reduced speed and
avoid sharp turns or abrupt maneuvers.
Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst tire traction.
On these surfaces, it is very easy to lose control.
On wet ice, for example, the traction is so poor that you
will have difficulty accelerating. And if you do get
moving, poor steering and difficult braking can cause
you to slide out of control.
{CAUTION:
Driving on frozen lakes, ponds, or rivers can
be dangerous. Underwater springs, currents
under the ice, or sudden thaws can weaken the
ice. Your vehicle could fall through the ice and
you and your passengers could drown. Drive
your vehicle on safe surfaces only.
Driving in Water
Heavy rain can mean ash ooding, and ood waters
demand extreme caution.
Find out how deep the water is before you drive through
it. If it is deep enough to cover your wheel hubs,
axles, or exhaust pipe, do not try it — you probably will
not get through. Also, water that deep can damage
your axle and other vehicle parts. Your vehicle is
capable of depths up to 20 inches. Know how to judge
whether the water is deeper than this before
proceeding into it.
If the water is not too deep, drive slowly through it. At
faster speeds, water splashes on your ignition
system and your vehicle can stall. Stalling can also
occur if you get your tailpipe under water. And, as long
as your tailpipe is under water, you will never be
able to start your engine. When you go through water,
remember that when your brakes get wet, it may
take you longer to stop.
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{CAUTION:
Driving through rushing water can be
dangerous. Deep water can sweep your vehicle
downstream and you and your passengers
could drown. If it is only shallow water, it can
still wash away the ground from under your
tires, and you could lose traction and roll
the vehicle over. Do not drive through
rushing water.
SeeDriving in Rain and on Wet Roads on page 4-37for
more information on driving through water.
After Off-Road Driving
Remove any brush or debris that has collected on the
underbody, chassis, or under the hood. These
accumulations can be a re hazard.
After operation in mud or sand, have the brake
linings cleaned and checked. These substances can
cause glazing and uneven braking. Check the engine
and oil coolers for mud accumulation. Thoroughly
and carefully clean these devices to allow proper
cooling. Check the body structure, steering, suspension,
underbody shields, wheels, tires, and exhaust system
for damage. Also, check the fuel lines and cooling
system for any leakage.
Your vehicle will require more frequent service due to
off-road use. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule
for additional information.
4-35

Whatever the condition — smooth ice, packed, blowing,
or loose snow — drive with caution.
The traction control system (TCS) improves your ability
to accelerate when driving on a slippery road. It will
improve your ability to accelerate. SeeIf Your Vehicle is
Stuck in Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow on page 4-50. Even
though your vehicle has TCS, you will want to slow down
and adjust your driving to the road conditions. Under
certain conditions, you may want to turn your traction
system off, such as when driving through deep
snow and loose gravel, to help maintain vehicle motion
at lower speeds. SeeTraction Control System (TCS)
on page 4-9andStabiliTrak
®System (Automatic
Transmission) on page 4-11.
Your anti-lock brake system (ABS) improve your
vehicle’s stability when you make a hard stop on a
slippery road. Even though you have ABS, you will wantto begin stopping sooner than you would on dry
pavement. SeeAnti-Lock Brake System (ABS) on
page 4-7.
Allow greater following distance on any
slippery road.
Watch for slippery spots. The road might be ne
until you hit a spot that is covered with ice. On
an otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in
shaded areas where the sun cannot reach, such
as around clumps of trees, behind buildings,
or under bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve
or an overpass may remain icy when the
surrounding roads are clear. If you see a patch of
ice ahead of you, brake before you are on it. Try not
to brake while you are actually on the ice, and
avoid sudden steering maneuvers.
4-47

If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand,
Mud, Ice or Snow
In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you will
need to spin the wheels, but you do not want to
spin your wheels too fast. The method known as rocking
can help you get out when you are stuck, but you
must use caution.
{CAUTION:
If you let your tires spin at high speed, they can
explode, and you or others could be injured.
And, the transmission or other parts of the
vehicle can overheat. That could cause an
engine compartment re or other damage.
When you are stuck, spin the wheels as little as
possible. Do not spin the wheels above 35 mph
(55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.
Notice:Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of
your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the
wheels too fast while shifting your transmission
back and forth, you can destroy your transmission.
For more information about using tire chains on your
vehicle, seeTire Chains on page 5-71.
Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out
First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That
will clear the area around your front wheels. Your vehicle
has a traction control system that will activate when
the system senses that the wheels are spinning.
SeeTraction Control System (TCS) on page 4-9for
more information. Then, with the wheels straight ahead,
shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a
forward gear, or with a manual transmission, between
FIRST (1) or SECOND (2) and REVERSE (R), spinning
the wheels as little as possible. Release the accelerator
pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the
accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear. By
slowly spinning your wheels in the forward and
reverse directions, you will cause a rocking motion that
may free your vehicle. If that does not get you out
after a few tries, you may need to be towed out. Or, you
can use your recovery loops. If you do need to be
towed out, seeTowing Your Vehicle on page 4-57.
4-50

And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are
driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check all trailer hitch parts and
attachments, safety chains, electrical connector, lamps,
tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric
brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then
apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure
the brakes are working. This lets you check your
electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the
load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer
brakes are still working.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as
you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer.
This can help you avoid situations that require
heavy braking and sudden turns.
Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when
you’re towing a trailer. Because you’re a good
deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the
passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand
to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your
hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible,
have someone guide you.
Making Turns
Notice:Making very sharp turns while trailering
could cause the trailer to come in contact with the
vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid
making very sharp turns while trailering.
When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than
normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders,
curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or
sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.
Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
The arrows on your instrument panel will ash whenever
you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up,
the trailer lamps will also ash, telling other drivers
you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument
panel will ash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer
are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind
you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s
important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer
bulbs are still working.
4-66

Service............................................................5-3
Accessories and Modications..........................5-3
California Proposition 65 Warning.....................5-4
Doing Your Own Service Work.........................5-4
Adding Equipment to the Outside of
Your Vehicle..............................................5-5
Fuel................................................................5-5
Gasoline Octane............................................5-5
Gasoline Specications....................................5-5
California Fuel...............................................5-6
Additives.......................................................5-6
Fuels in Foreign Countries...............................5-7
Filling the Tank..............................................5-8
Filling a Portable Fuel Container.....................5-10
Checking Things Under the Hood....................5-10
Hood Release..............................................5-11
Engine Compartment Overview.......................5-12
Engine Oil...................................................5-13
Engine Oil Life System..................................5-16
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter................................5-18
Automatic Transmission Fluid.........................5-19
Manual Transmission Fluid.............................5-22
Hydraulic Clutch...........................................5-23
Engine Coolant.............................................5-24
Radiator Pressure Cap..................................5-27
Engine Overheating.......................................5-27Cooling System............................................5-29
Engine Fan Noise.........................................5-33
Power Steering Fluid.....................................5-34
Windshield Washer Fluid................................5-35
Brakes........................................................5-36
Battery........................................................5-39
Jump Starting...............................................5-40
All-Wheel Drive..............................................5-44
Rear Axle.......................................................5-45
Front Axle......................................................5-45
Headlamp Aiming...........................................5-46
Bulb Replacement..........................................5-49
Halogen Bulbs..............................................5-49
Headlamps..................................................5-49
Taillamps, Turn Signal, Stoplamps and
Back-up Lamps.........................................5-50
Replacement Bulbs.......................................5-51
Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement..............5-52
Tires..............................................................5-53
Tire Sidewall Labelling...................................5-54
Tire Terminology and Denitions.....................5-57
Ination - Tire Pressure.................................5-60
Tire Pressure Monitor System.........................5-61
Tire Inspection and Rotation...........................5-64
When It Is Time for New Tires.......................5-65
Section 5 Service and Appearance Care
5-1

A. Windshield Washer Fluid. See “Adding Washer
Fluid” underWindshield Washer Fluid on page 5-35.
B. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank. SeeEngine
Coolant on page 5-24.
C. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. SeeEngine Air
Cleaner/Filter on page 5-18.
D. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. SeePower Steering
Fluid on page 5-34.
E. Automatic Transmission Fluid Dipstick (If Equipped).
See “Checking the Fluid Level” underAutomatic
Transmission Fluid on page 5-19.
F. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”
underEngine Oil on page 5-13.
G. Radiator Pressure Cap. SeeCooling System on
page 5-29.
H. Remote Negative (−) Terminal (GND). SeeJump
Starting on page 5-40.
I. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”
underEngine Oil on page 5-13.
J. Remote Positive (+) Terminal. SeeJump Starting
on page 5-40.
K. Brake Fluid Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid” under
Brakes on page 5-36.
L. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. SeeEngine
Compartment Fuse Block on page 5-97.
M. Battery. SeeBattery on page 5-39.
N. Hydraulic Clutch Fluid Reservoir (If Equipped).
SeeHydraulic Clutch on page 5-23.Engine Oil
Checking Engine Oil
It is a good idea to check your engine oil every time you
get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil
must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.
The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop.
SeeEngine Compartment Overview on page 5-12for
the location of the engine oil dipstick.
1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes
to drain back into the oil pan. If you do not do this,
the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.
2. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel
or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it
again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.
5-13

Power Steering Fluid
SeeEngine Compartment
Overview on page 5-12
for reservoir location.
When to Check Power Steering Fluid
It is not necessary to regularly check power steering uid
unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or
you hear an unusual noise. A uid loss in this system
could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected
and repaired.
How to Check Power Steering Fluid
1. Turn the key off and let the engine compartment
cool down.
2. Wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean.
3. Unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a
clean rag.
4. Replace the cap and completely tighten it.
5. Then remove the cap again and look at the uid
level on the dipstick.
The level should be between the ADD and FULL marks.
If necessary, add only enough uid to bring the level
up to the proper range.
What to Use
To determine what kind of uid to use, see
Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12.
Always use the proper uid. Failure to use the proper
uid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.
5-34

Tire Terminology and Denitions
Air Pressure:The amount of air inside the tire pressing
outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure
is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or
kilopascal (kPa).
Accessory Weight:This means the combined weight
of optional accessories. Some examples of optional
accessories are, automatic transmission, power steering,
power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air
conditioning.
Aspect Ratio:The relationship of a tire’s height to
its width.
Belt:A rubber coated layer of cords that is located
between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made
from steel or other reinforcing materials.
Bead:The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by
steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim.
Bias Ply Tire:A pneumatic tire in which the plies are
laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the
centerline of the tread.Cold Ination Pressure:The amount of air pressure
in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi)
or kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up heat from
driving. SeeInation - Tire Pressure on page 5-60.
Curb Weight:This means the weight of a motor vehicle
with standard and optional equipment including the
maximum capacity of fuel, oil and coolant, but without
passengers and cargo.
DOT Markings:A code molded into the sidewall of a
tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the
U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) motor vehicle
safety standards. The DOT code includes the Tire
Identication Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator
which can also identify the tire manufacturer, production
plant, brand and date of production.
GVWR:Gross Vehicle Weight Rating, seeLoading
Your Vehicle on page 4-52.
GAWR FRT:Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front
axle, seeLoading Your Vehicle on page 4-52.
GAWR RR:Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle,
seeLoading Your Vehicle on page 4-52.
5-57

If a Tire Goes Flat
It is unusual for a tire to blowout while you are driving,
especially if you maintain your vehicle’s tires properly.
If air goes out of a tire, it is much more likely to leak out
slowly. But if you should ever have a blowout, here
are a few tips about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the at tire will create a drag that pulls
the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the
accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel rmly.
Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to
a stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a
skid and may require the same correction you would
use in a skid. In any rear blowout remove your foot from
the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control
by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may
be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer.
Gently brake to a stop, well off the road if possible.{CAUTION:
Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do
maintenance or repairs is dangerous without
the appropriate safety equipment and training.
The jack provided with your vehicle is
designed only for changing a at tire. If it is
used for anything else, you or others could be
badly injured or killed if the vehicle slips off
the jack. Use the jack provided with your
vehicle only for changing a at tire.
If a tire goes at, the next part shows how to use the
jacking equipment to change a at tire safely.
5-72