tow HUMMER H3 2006 Owner's Guide

Weight of the Trailer Tongue
The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight
to measure because it affects the total gross weight
of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW)
includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you
may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in
the vehicle. If you have a lot of options, equipment,
passengers or cargo in your vehicle, it will reduce the
tongue weight your vehicle can carry, which will
also reduce the trailer weight your vehicle can tow. If
you will tow a trailer, you must add the tongue load
to the GVW because your vehicle will be carrying that
weight, too. SeeLoading Your Vehicle on page 4-52for
more information about your vehicle’s maximum load
capacity.The trailer tongue weight (A) should be 10 percent to
15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B), up to a
maximum of 500 lbs (227 kg) with a weight carrying
hitch or a weight distributing hitch.
Do not exceed the maximum allowable tongue weight
for your vehicle. Choose the shortest hitch extension
that will position the hitch ball closest to the vehicle. This
will help reduce the effect of trailer tongue weight on
the rear axle.
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Your spare tire carrier is behind the tailgate. If your
hitch extension is too short, the spare tire may interfere
with trailer coupling or trailer tongue jack operation
on some types of trailers.
After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer
and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights
are proper. If they aren’t, you may be able to get
them right simply by moving some items around in
the trailer.
Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires
Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inated to the upper limit
for cold tires. You’ll nd these numbers on the
Certication label at the rear edge of the driver’s door or
seeLoading Your Vehicle on page 4-52. Then be
sure you don’t go over the GVW limit for your vehicle,
or the GAWR, including the weight of the trailer tongue.
If you use a weight distributing hitch, make sure you
don’t go over the rear axle limit before you apply
the weight distribution spring bars.
Hitches
It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment.
Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are
a few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch.
Weight-Distributing Hitches and Weight
Carrying Hitches
When using a weight-distributing hitch, the hitch must
be adjusted so that the distance (A) remains the
same both before and after coupling the trailer to the
tow vehicle.(A) Body-to-Ground Distance (B) Front of Vehicle
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But, you must still consider the effect on the rear axle.
Because your rear axle now weighs 3,100 lbs (1 406 kg),
you can only put 900 lbs (408 kg) on the rear axle
without exceeding RGAWR. The effect of tongue weight
is about 1.5 times the actual weight. Dividing the
900 lbs (408 kg) by 1.5 leaves you with being able to
handle only 600 lbs (272 kg) of tongue weight.
Since tongue weight is usually at least 10 percent of
total loaded trailer weight, you can expect that the
largest trailer your vehicle can properly handle is
6,000 lbs (2 721 kg).
It is important that you make sure your vehicle does not
exceed any of its ratings — GCWR, GVWR, RGAWR,
Maximum Trailer Rating or Tongue Weight. The
only way to be sure you are not exceeding any of these
ratings is to weigh your vehicle and trailer.
Safety Chains
You should always attach chains between your vehicle
and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the
tongue of the trailer to help prevent the tongue from
contacting the road if it becomes separated from
the hitch. Always leave just enough slack so you can
turn with your rig. Never allow safety chains to drag on
the ground.
Trailer Brakes
If your trailer weighs more than 1,500 lbs (680 kg)
loaded, then it needs its own brakes – and they must be
adequate. Be sure to read and follow the instructions
for the trailer brakes so you’ll be able to install,
adjust and maintain them properly.
Your trailer brake system can tap into the vehicle’s
hydraulic brake system only if:
The trailer parts can withstand 3,000 psi
(20 650 kPa) of pressure.
The trailer’s brake system will use less than
0.02 cubic inch (0.3 cc) of uid from your vehicle’s
master cylinder. Otherwise, both braking systems
won’t work well. You could even lose your brakes.
If everything checks out this far, make the brake tap at
the port on the master cylinder that sends the uid
to the rear brakes. But don’t use copper tubing for this.
If you do, it will bend and nally break off. Use steel
brake tubing.
Driving with a Trailer
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.
Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get
to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of
handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer.
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And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are
driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check all trailer hitch parts and
attachments, safety chains, electrical connector, lamps,
tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric
brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then
apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure
the brakes are working. This lets you check your
electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the
load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer
brakes are still working.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as
you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer.
This can help you avoid situations that require
heavy braking and sudden turns.
Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when
you’re towing a trailer. Because you’re a good
deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the
passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand
to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your
hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible,
have someone guide you.
Making Turns
Notice:Making very sharp turns while trailering
could cause the trailer to come in contact with the
vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid
making very sharp turns while trailering.
When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than
normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders,
curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or
sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.
Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
The arrows on your instrument panel will ash whenever
you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up,
the trailer lamps will also ash, telling other drivers
you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument
panel will ash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer
are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind
you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s
important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer
bulbs are still working.
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Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gearbeforeyou start
down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift
down, you might have to use your brakes so much that
they would get hot and no longer work well.
If you have an automatic transmission, you can tow in
DRIVE (D). You may want to shift the transmission
to THIRD (3) or, if necessary, a lower gear selection if
the transmission shifts too often under heavy loads
and/or hilly conditions.
If you have a manual transmission and you are towing a
trailer, it is better not to use the highest gear.
When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades,
consider the following: Engine coolant will boil at a lower
temperature than at normal altitudes. If you turn your
engine off immediately after towing at high altitude
on steep uphill grades, your vehicle may show signs
similar to engine overheating. To avoid this, let the
engine run while parked, preferably on level ground, with
the automatic transmission in PARK (P) for a few
minutes before turning the engine off. For manual
transmissions, let the engine run while parked,
preferably on level ground, with the transmission out of
gear and the parking brake applied, for a few minutes
before turning the engine off. If you do get the overheat
warning, seeEngine Overheating on page 5-27.
Parking on Hills
{CAUTION:
You really should not park your vehicle, with a
trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes
wrong, your rig could start to move. People
can be injured, and both your vehicle and the
trailer can be damaged.
But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s
how to do it:
1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into
PARK (P) yet for an automatic transmission, or into
gear for a manual transmission. Turn your wheels
into the curb if facing downhill or into traffic if
facing uphill.
2. Have someone place chocks under the
trailer wheels.
3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the
regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking
brake and shift into PARK (P) for an automatic
transmission or into gear for a manual transmission.
5. Release the regular brakes.
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When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down
while you:
start your engine,
shift into a gear, and
release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store
the chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re
pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more
on this. Things that are especially important in trailer
operation are automatic transmission uid, engine
oil, axle lubricant, belts, cooling system and brake
system. Each of these is covered in this manual, and
the Index will help you nd them quickly. If you’re
trailering, it’s a good idea to review these sections
before you start your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts
are tight.
Trailer Wiring Harness
Light-Duty Trailer Wiring Package
If your vehicle is not equipped with a trailer towing
package, the chassis harness will contain the following
blunt cut circuits:
Yellow: Left Stop/Turn Signal
Dark Green: Right Stop/Turn Signal
White: Ground
Brown: Tail Lamps
If you want to add on a trailer tow, it should be installed
by your dealer or a qualied service center. Also, see
Add-On Electrical Equipment on page 5-95for more
information.
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Heavy-Duty Trailer Wiring Package
If your vehicle is equipped with a trailer towing package,
the rear bumper harness will have a seven-pin
universal heavy-duty trailer connector attached to a
bracket on the hitch platform.
The trailer towing harness contains the following
seven trailer circuits:
Yellow: Left Stop/Turn Signal
Dark Green: Right Stop/Turn Signal
Brown: Taillamps
White: Ground
Light Green: Back-up Lamps
Red: Battery Feed
Dark Blue: Trailer Brake
Four-Wire Harness Adapter
If you need to tow a light-duty trailer with a standard
four-way, at pin connector, an adapter is available from
your dealer.
Use this adapter to
connect a standard
four-way pin connector to
the seven-wire harness
on your vehicle.
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Connect the adapter with the tab pointing up. The ip
cap on the vehicle’s seven-wire harness will lock
onto the tab (see arrow in the previous graphic) and
help hold the adapter in place. Plug the four-way
pin connector onto the adapter.
Trailer Recommendations
You must subtract your hitch loads from the Cargo
Weight Rating (CWR). CWR is the maximum weight of
the load your vehicle can carry. It doesn’t include
the weight of the people inside, but you can gure about
150 lbs. (68 kg) for each seat. The total cargo load
must not be more than your vehicles CWR.
Weigh your vehicle with your trailer attached, so that
you won’t go over the GVWR or GAWR. If you are using
a weight-distributing hitch, weigh the vehicle without
the spring bars in place.
You’ll get the best performance if you spread out the
weight of your load the right way, and if you choose the
correct hitch and trailer brakes.
For more information seeTowing a Trailer on page 4-59.
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A. Windshield Washer Fluid. See “Adding Washer
Fluid” underWindshield Washer Fluid on page 5-35.
B. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank. SeeEngine
Coolant on page 5-24.
C. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. SeeEngine Air
Cleaner/Filter on page 5-18.
D. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. SeePower Steering
Fluid on page 5-34.
E. Automatic Transmission Fluid Dipstick (If Equipped).
See “Checking the Fluid Level” underAutomatic
Transmission Fluid on page 5-19.
F. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”
underEngine Oil on page 5-13.
G. Radiator Pressure Cap. SeeCooling System on
page 5-29.
H. Remote Negative (−) Terminal (GND). SeeJump
Starting on page 5-40.
I. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”
underEngine Oil on page 5-13.
J. Remote Positive (+) Terminal. SeeJump Starting
on page 5-40.
K. Brake Fluid Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid” under
Brakes on page 5-36.
L. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. SeeEngine
Compartment Fuse Block on page 5-97.
M. Battery. SeeBattery on page 5-39.
N. Hydraulic Clutch Fluid Reservoir (If Equipped).
SeeHydraulic Clutch on page 5-23.Engine Oil
Checking Engine Oil
It is a good idea to check your engine oil every time you
get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil
must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.
The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop.
SeeEngine Compartment Overview on page 5-12for
the location of the engine oil dipstick.
1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes
to drain back into the oil pan. If you do not do this,
the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.
2. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel
or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it
again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.
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Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the
transmission uid level if you have been driving:
When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C).
At high speed for quite a while.
In heavy traffic — especially in hot weather.
While pulling a trailer.
To get the right reading, the uid should be at normal
operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F
(82°C to 93°C).
Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles
(24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F
(10°C). If it is colder than 50°F (10°C), drive the vehicle
in THIRD (3) until the engine temperature gage
moves and then remains steady for 10 minutes.
A cold uid check can be made after the vehicle has
been sitting for eight hours or more with the engine off,
but this is used only as a reference. Let the engine
run at idle for ve minutes if outside temperatures are
50°F (10°C) or more. If it is colder than 50°F (10°C), you
may have to idle the engine longer. Should the uid
level be low during this cold check, you must check the
uid hot before adding uid. Checking the uid hot
will give you a more accurate reading of the uid level.
Checking the Fluid Level
Prepare your vehicle as follows:
1. Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine
running.
2. With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever
in PARK (P).
3. With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift
lever through each gear range, pausing for about
three seconds in each range. Then, position
the shift lever in PARK (P).
4. Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more.
Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:
1. Flip the handle up and then pull out the dipstick
and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.
The automatic
transmission dipstick
handle with this symbol on
it is located in the engine
compartment on the
passenger’s side of
the vehicle.
SeeEngine Compartment Overview on page 5-12
for more information on location.
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