light HUMMER H3 2007 Owners Manual

Once you are moving on the freeway, make
certain you allow a reasonable following distance.
Expect to move slightly slower at night.
When you want to leave the freeway, move to
the proper lane well in advance. If you miss
your exit, do not, under any circumstances, stop
and back up. Drive on to the next exit.
The exit ramp can be curved, sometimes quite
sharply. The exit speed is usually posted.
Reduce your speed according to your
speedometer, not to your sense of motion.
After driving for any distance at higher speeds,
you may tend to think you are going slower
than you actually are.
Before Leaving on a Long Trip
Make sure you are ready. Try to be well rested.
If you must start when you are not fresh — such
as after a day’s work — do not plan to make
too many miles that rst part of the journey.
Wear comfortable clothing and shoes you can
easily drive in.Is your vehicle ready for a long trip? If you keep it
serviced and maintained, it is ready to go. If it needs
service, have it done before starting out. Of course,
you will nd experienced and able service experts
in GM dealerships all across North America. They
will be ready and willing to help if you need it.
Here are some things you can check before a trip:
Windshield Washer Fluid:Is the reservoir
full? Are all windows clean inside and outside?
Wiper Blades:Are they in good shape?
Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids:Have you
checked all levels?
Lamps:Are they all working? Are the lenses
clean?
Tires:They are vitally important to a safe,
trouble-free trip. Is the tread good enough
for long-distance driving? Are the tires
all inated to the recommended pressure?
Weather Forecasts:What is the weather
outlook along your route? Should you
delay your trip a short time to avoid a major
storm system?
Maps:Do you have up-to-date maps?
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Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom,
a supply of windshield washer uid, a rag,
some winter outer clothing, a small shovel, a
ashlight, a red cloth, and a couple of reective
warning triangles. And, if you will be driving under
severe conditions, include a small bag of sand,
a piece of old carpet, or a couple of burlap bags
to help provide traction. Be sure you properly
secure these items in your vehicle.
Driving on Snow or Ice
Most of the time, those places where the tires
meet the road probably have good traction.
However, if there is snow or ice between the
tires and the road, you can have a very slippery
situation. You will have a lot less traction, or
grip, and will need to be very careful.What is the worst time for this? Wet ice. Very cold
snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on.
But wet ice can be even more trouble because it
may offer the least traction of all. You can get
wet ice when it is about freezing, 32°F (0°C), and
freezing rain begins to fall. Try to avoid driving
on wet ice until salt and sand crews can get there.
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{CAUTION:
Snow can trap exhaust gases under your
vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon
monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could
overcome you and kill you. You cannot see
it or smell it, so you might not know it is in
your vehicle. Clear away snow from around
the base of your vehicle, especially any
that is blocking your exhaust pipe. And
check around again from time to time to
be sure snow does not collect there.
Open a window just a little on the side of
the vehicle that is away from the wind.
This will help keep CO out.Run your engine only as long as you must.
This saves fuel. When you run the engine, make it
go a little faster than just idle. That is, push the
accelerator slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat
that you get and it keeps the battery charged.
You will need a well-charged battery to restart the
vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with
your headlamps. Let the heater run for a while.
Then, shut the engine off and close the window
almost all the way to preserve the heat. Start
the engine again and repeat this only when you
feel really uncomfortable from the cold. But do it
as little as possible. Preserve the fuel as long
as you can. To help keep warm, you can get out
of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous
exercises every half hour or so until help comes.
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If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand,
Mud, Ice, or Snow
In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck,
you will need to spin the wheels, but you do not
want to spin your wheels too fast. The method
known as rocking can help you get out when you
are stuck, but you must use caution.
{CAUTION:
If you let your vehicle’s tires spin at high
speed, they can explode, and you or others
could be injured. And, the transmission or
other parts of the vehicle can overheat.
That could cause an engine compartment
re or other damage. When you are stuck,
spin the wheels as little as possible. Do not
spin the wheels above 35 mph (55 km/h)
as shown on the speedometer.Notice:Spinning the wheels can destroy
parts of your vehicle as well as the tires.
If you spin the wheels too fast while shifting
the transmission back and forth, you can
destroy the transmission.
For information about using tire chains on your
vehicle, seeTire Chains on page 389.
Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out
First, turn the steering wheel left and right.
That will clear the area around the front wheels.
Your vehicle has a traction control system that
will activate when the system senses that
the wheels are spinning. SeeTraction Control
System (TCS) on page 241for more information.
Then, with the wheels straight ahead, shift
back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a
forward gear, or with a manual transmission,
between FIRST (1) or SECOND (2) and
REVERSE (R), spinning the wheels as little as
possible. Release the accelerator pedal while
you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator
pedal when the transmission is in gear.
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Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when
you’re pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance
Schedule for more on this. Things that are
especially important in trailer operation are
automatic transmission uid, engine oil, axle
lubricant, belts, cooling system and brake
system. Each of these is covered in this manual,
and the Index will help you nd them quickly.
If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review
these sections before you start your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts
and bolts are tight.
Trailer Wiring Harness
Light-Duty Trailer Wiring Package
If your vehicle is not equipped with a trailer
towing package, the chassis harness will
contain the following blunt cut circuits:
Yellow: Left Stop/Turn Signal
Dark Green: Right Stop/Turn Signal
White: Ground
Brown: Tail Lamps
If you want to add on a trailer tow, it should be
installed by your dealer or a qualied service
center. Also, seeAdd-On Electrical Equipment
on page 416for more information.
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Heavy-Duty Trailer Wiring Package
If your vehicle is equipped with a trailer towing
package, the rear bumper harness will have
a seven-pin universal heavy-duty trailer connector
attached to a bracket on the hitch platform.The trailer towing harness contains the following
seven trailer circuits:
Yellow: Left Stop/Turn Signal
Dark Green: Right Stop/Turn Signal
Brown: Taillamps
White: Ground
Light Green: Back-up Lamps
Red: Battery Feed
Dark Blue: Trailer Brake
If you are charging a remote (non-vehicle) battery,
turn on the headlamps to boost the vehicle
system voltage to properly charge the battery.
308

Four-Wire Harness Adapter
If you need to tow a light-duty trailer with a
standard four-way, at pin connector, an adapter
is available from your dealer.
Use this adapter to
connect a standard
four-way pin connector
to the seven-wire
harness on your vehicle.
Connect the adapter with the tab pointing up.
The ip cap on the vehicle’s seven-wire harness
will lock onto the tab (see arrow in the previous
graphic) and help hold the adapter in place.
Plug the four-way pin connector onto the adapter.
309

Trailer Brake Control Wiring Harness
The trailer brake control wiring harness is located
under the instrument panel to the right of the
steering column. The wires are taped to the
harness that goes to the courtesy light under
the instrument panel. The harness will contain
the following wires:
Red Wire: AUX B+
Black Wire: Ground
Light Blue Wire: Brake Signal
Dark Blue Wire: Trailer Brakes
Trailer Recommendations
You must subtract your hitch loads from the
Cargo Weight Rating (CWR). CWR is the
maximum weight of the load your vehicle can
carry. It doesn’t include the weight of the people
inside, but you can gure about 150 lbs. (68 kg)
for each seat. The total cargo load must not
be more than your vehicles CWR.
Weigh your vehicle with your trailer attached,
so that you won’t go over the GVWR or GAWR.
If you are using a weight-distributing hitch,
weigh the vehicle without the spring bars in place.
You’ll get the best performance if you spread
out the weight of your load the right way, and if
you choose the correct hitch and trailer brakes.
For more information seeTowing a Trailer
on page 297.
310

The FUEL CAP message will be displayed on the
Driver Information Center (DIC) if the fuel cap
is not properly installed. SeeDIC Warnings and
Messages on page 196for more information.
{CAUTION:
If a re starts while you are refueling,
do not remove the nozzle. Shut off the
ow of fuel by shutting off the pump or
by notifying the station attendant. Leave
the area immediately.
Notice:If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to
get the right type. Your dealer can get one
for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not
t properly. This may cause your malfunction
indicator lamp to light and may damage
your fuel tank and emissions system. See
Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 186.
Filling a Portable Fuel Container
{CAUTION:
Never ll a portable fuel container while it
is in your vehicle. Static electricity
discharge from the container can ignite the
gasoline vapor. You can be badly burned
and your vehicle damaged if this occurs.
To help avoid injury to you and others:
Dispense gasoline only into approved
containers.
Do not ll a container while it is inside
a vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup
bed, or on any surface other than the
ground.
Bring the ll nozzle in contact with the
inside of the ll opening before
operating the nozzle. Contact should
be maintained until the lling is
complete.
Do not smoke while pumping gasoline.
320

How to Check and Add Fluid
The proper uid should be added if the level does
not reach the bottom of the diaphragm when it
is in place in the reservoir. See the instructions on
the reservoir cap.
Engine Coolant
The cooling system in your vehicle is lled with
DEX-COOL®engine coolant. This coolant is
designed to remain in your vehicle for ve years or
150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs
rst, if you add only DEX-COOL
®extended
life coolant.
The following explains your cooling system and
how to add coolant when it is low. If you have
a problem with engine overheating, seeEngine
Overheating on page 338.A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and
DEX-COOL
®coolant will:
Give freezing protection down to−34°F (−37°C).
Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C).
Protect against rust and corrosion.
Help keep the proper engine temperature.
Let the warning lights and gages work as
they should.
Notice:Using coolant other than DEX-COOL
®
may cause premature engine, heater core,
or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine
coolant may require changing sooner, at
the rst maintenance service after each
30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months,
whichever occurs rst. Any repairs would not
be covered by your warranty. Always use
DEX-COOL
®(silicate-free) coolant in your
vehicle.
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