check engine HUMMER H3 2010 Owner's Guide

10-20 Vehicle Care
Checking Coolant
The vehicle must be on a level
surface when checking the coolant
level.
The coolant recovery tank cap has
this symbol on it.
It is located toward the rear of
the engine compartment on the
passenger side of the vehicle. See
Engine Compartment Overview
on
page 10‑6for more information on
location.
Check to see if coolant is visible in
the coolant recovery tank. If the
coolant inside the coolant recovery
tank is boiling, do not do anything
else until it cools down. If coolant is
visible but the coolant level is not at
or above the FULL COLD mark, add
a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL coolant at the
coolant recovery tank, but be sure
the cooling system is cool before
this is done.
The vehicle must be on a level
surface. When the engine is cold,
the coolant level should be at FULL
COLD, or a little higher. When the
engine is warm, the level could be
above the FULL COLD level.
When the engine is cold, the coolant
level should be at least up to the
FULL COLD mark. If it is not, there
could be a leak in the cooling
system.
How to Add Coolant to the
Recovery Tank
{WARNING
You can be burned if you spill
coolant on hot engine parts.
Coolant contains ethylene glycol
and it will burn if the engine parts
are hot enough. Do not spill
coolant on a hot engine.
Notice:
This vehicle has a
specific coolant fill procedure.
Failure to follow this procedure
could cause the engine to
overheat and be severely
damaged.
When the coolant in the coolant
recovery tank is at the FULL COLD
mark, start the vehicle.
If coolant is needed, add the proper
DEX-COOL coolant mixture at the
coolant recovery tank.
How to Add Coolant to the
Radiator
{WARNING
An electric engine cooling fan
under the hood can start up even
when the engine is not running
and can cause injury. Keep
hands, clothing, and tools away
from any underhood electric fan.

10-22 Vehicle Care
6. Start the engine and let it rununtil you can feel the upper
radiator hose getting hot. Watch
out for the engine cooling fan.
7. By this time, the coolant level inside the radiator filler neck
might be lower. If the level is
lower, add more of the proper
DEX‐COOL coolant mixture
through the filler neck until the
level reaches the base of the
filler neck.
8. Then replace the pressure cap. At any time during this procedure
if coolant begins to flow out of
the filler neck, reinstall the
pressure cap.
Notice:
If the pressure cap is not
tightly installed, coolant loss and
possible engine damage may
occur. Be sure the cap is properly
and tightly secured.
Engine Overheating
The vehicle has an indicator to warn
of engine overheating.
A coolant temperature gauge is
displayed on the instrument panel.
See Engine Coolant Temperature
Gauge on page 5‑9.
You may decide not to lift the
hood when this warning appears,
but instead get service help right
away. See Roadside Service
on
page 13‑5.
If you do decide to lift the hood,
make sure the vehicle is parked on
a level surface. Then check to see if the engine
cooling fans are running. If the
engine is overheating, both fans
should be running. If they are not,
do not continue to run the engine
and have the vehicle serviced.
The air conditioning might stop
working if the engine is too hot. This
is normal and helps cool the engine.
Notice:
Engine damage from
running the engine without
coolant is not covered by the
warranty.
Notice: If the engine catches
fire because of being driven
with no coolant, your vehicle can
be badly damaged. The costly
repairs would not be covered by
the vehicle warranty.

10-24 Vehicle Care
Engine Fan
This vehicle has a clutched engine
cooling fan. When the clutch is
engaged, the fan spins faster to
provide more air to cool the engine.
In most everyday driving conditions,
the clutch is not engaged. This
improves fuel economy and reduces
fan noise. Under heavy vehicle
loading, trailer towing and/or high
outside temperatures, the fan speed
increases when the clutch engages.
So you may hear an increase in fan
noise. This is normal and should not
be mistaken as the transmission
slipping or making extra shifts.
It is merely the cooling system
functioning properly. The fan will
slow down when additional cooling
is not required and the clutch
disengages.
You may also hear this fan noise
when you start the engine. It will go
away as the fan clutch disengages.
Power Steering Fluid
SeeEngine Compartment Overviewon page 10‑6for reservoir location.
When to Check Power Steering
Fluid
It is not necessary to regularly
check power steering fluid unless a
leak in the system is suspected or
an unusual noise is heard. A fluid
loss in this system could indicate a
problem. Have the system inspected
and repaired.
How to Check Power Steering
Fluid
1. Turn the key off and let the
engine compartment cool down.
2. Wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean.
3. Unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag.
4. Replace the cap and completely tighten it.
5. Then remove the cap again and look at the fluid level on the
dipstick.
The level should be between the
ADD and FULL marks. If necessary,
add only enough fluid to bring the
level up to the proper range.

10-30 Vehicle Care
Starter Switch Check
{WARNING
When you are doing this
inspection, the vehicle could
move suddenly. If the vehicle
moves, you or others could be
injured.
1. Before starting this check, be sure there is enough room
around the vehicle.
2. Firmly apply both the parking brake and the regular brake.
See Parking Brake
on
page 9‑51.
Do not use the accelerator
pedal, and be ready to turn off
the engine immediately if it
starts. 3. For automatic transmission
vehicles, try to start the engine
in each gear. The vehicle
should start only in P (Park) or
N (Neutral). If the vehicle starts
in any other position, contact
your dealer for service.
For manual transmission
vehicles, put the shift lever in
Neutral, push the clutch pedal
down halfway, and try to start
the engine. The vehicle should
start only when the clutch pedal
is pushed down all the way to
the floor. If the vehicle starts
when the clutch pedal is not
pushed all the way down,
contact your dealer for service.
Automatic Transmission
Shift Lock Control
System Check
{WARNING
When you are doing this
inspection, the vehicle could
move suddenly. If the vehicle
moves, you or others could be
injured.
1. Before starting this check, be sure there is enough room
around the vehicle. It should be
parked on a level surface.
2. Firmly apply the parking brake. See Parking Brake
on
page 9‑51.
Be ready to apply the regular
brake immediately if the vehicle
begins to move.

Vehicle Care 10-31
3. With the engine off, turn theignition to ON/RUN, but do
not start the engine. Without
applying the regular brake, try
to move the shift lever out of
P (Park) with normal effort. If the
shift lever moves out of P (Park),
contact your dealer for service.
Ignition Transmission
Lock Check
While parked, and with the parking
brake set, try to turn the ignition to
LOCK/OFF in each shift lever
position.
.For automatic transmission
vehicles, the ignition should turn
to LOCK/OFF only when the
shift lever is in P (Park). The
ignition key should come out
only in LOCK/OFF.
.For manual transmission
vehicles, the ignition key should
come out only in LOCK/OFF.
Contact your dealer if service is
required.
Park Brake and P (Park)
Mechanism Check
{WARNING
When you are doing this check,
the vehicle could begin to move.
You or others could be injured
and property could be damaged.
Make sure there is room in front
of the vehicle in case it begins to
roll. Be ready to apply the regular
brake at once should the vehicle
begin to move. Park on a fairly steep hill, with the
vehicle facing downhill. Keeping
your foot on the regular brake, set
the parking brake.
.To check the parking brake's
holding ability: With the engine
running and the transmission in
N (Neutral), slowly remove foot
pressure from the regular brake
pedal. Do this until the vehicle is
held by the parking brake only.
.To check the P (Park)
mechanism's holding ability:
With the engine running, shift
to P (Park). Then release the
parking brake followed by the
regular brake.
Contact your dealer if service is
required.

10-56 Vehicle Care
You have one minute to match
the first tire/wheel position, and
five minutes overall, to match all
four tire/wheel positions. If it takes
longer than one minute, to match
the first tire and wheel, or more than
five minutes to match all four tire
and wheel positions, the matching
process stops and you need to
start over.
The TPMS sensor matching
procedure is outlined below:
1. Set the parking brake.
2. Turn the ignition switch toON/RUN with the engine off.
3. Turn the exterior lamp switch from AUTO to OFF four times
within three seconds.
A double horn chirp will
sound and the TPMS low tire
warning light starts flashing.
The double horn chirp and
flashing TPMS warning light
indicates the TPMS matching
process has started. The TPMS warning light should continue
flashing throughout the matching
procedure. The LOW TIRE
message displays on the Driver
Information Center (DIC).
4. Start with the driver side front tire.
5. Remove the valve cap from the valve cap stem. Activate the
TPMS sensor by increasing or
decreasing the tire's air pressure
for 10 seconds, then stop and
listen for a single horn chirp. The
single horn chirp should sound
within 15 seconds, confirming
that the sensor identification
code has been matched to this
tire and wheel position. If you
do not hear the confirming
single horn chirp, turn the
ignition switch to LOCK and start
over beginning with Step 2.
6. Proceed to the passenger side front tire, and repeat the
procedure in Step 5. 7. Proceed to the passenger side
rear tire, and repeat the
procedure in Step 5.
8. Proceed to the driver side rear tire, and repeat the procedure in
Step 5.
9. After hearing the confirming horn chirp for the driver side rear tire,
check to see if the TPMS low tire
warning light and the DIC LOW
TIRE messages have turned off.
If yes, the TPMS sensors have
been relearned. Turn the ignition
switch to LOCK/OFF.
If the low tire warning light and
the SERV TPM message on the
DIC are on after completing
Step 5 for the driver side rear
tire, the sensor relearn process
has not been successful. Turn
the ignition switch to LOCK/OFF
and repeat the matching process
beginning with Step 2.

10-88 Vehicle Care
{WARNING
Fans or other moving engine
parts can injure you badly. Keep
your hands away from moving
parts once the engine is running.
5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or missing
insulation. If they do, you could
get a shock. The vehicles could
be damaged too.
Before you connect the cables,
here are some basic things you
should know. Positive (+) will go
to positive (+) or to a remote
positive (+) terminal if the vehicle
has one. Negative (−) will go to a
heavy, unpainted metal engine
part or to a remote negative (−)
terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to
negative (−) or you will get a
short that would damage the
battery and maybe other parts
too. And do not connect the
negative (−) cable to the
negative (−) terminal on the
dead battery because this can
cause sparks.
6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal
of the dead battery. Use a
remote positive (+) terminal if the
vehicle has one.
7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the
positive (+) terminal of the
good battery. Use a remote
positive (+) terminal if the vehicle
has one.
8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the
negative (−) terminal of the
good battery. Use a remote
negative (−) terminal if the
vehicle has one. Do not let the other end touch
anything until the next step. The
other end of the negative (−)
cable does not go to the dead
battery. It goes to a heavy,
unpainted metal engine part,
or to a remote negative (−)
terminal on the vehicle with the
dead battery.
9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable at least
18 inches (45 cm) away from
the dead battery, but not near
engine parts that move. The
electrical connection is just as
good there, and the chance of
sparks getting back to the
battery is much less.
Your vehicle has a remote
negative (−) terminal, marked
GND (Ground), for this purpose.

Service and Maintenance 11-3
life system whenever the oil is
changed. SeeEngine Oil Life
System on page 10‑11.
When the “Change Oil” message
displays, certain services, checks,
and inspections are required.
The services described for
Maintenance Ishould be performed
at every engine oil change. The
services described for Maintenance
II should be performed when:
.Maintenance Iwas performed
the last time the engine oil was
changed.
.It has been 10 months or more
since the “Change Oil” message
has displayed or since the last
service.
Maintenance I
.Change engine oil and filter.
SeeEngine Oilon page 10‑9.
An Emission Control Service.
.Engine coolant level check. See
Engine Coolant on page 10‑19.
.Windshield washer fluid level
check. See Washer Fluidon
page 10‑25.
.Tire inflation check. See Tire
Pressure on page 10‑51.
.Tire wear inspection. See Tire
Inspection on page 10‑57.
.Rotate tires. See Tire Rotationon page 10‑57.
.Fluids visual leak check
(or every 12 months, whichever
occurs first). A leak in any
system must be repaired and
the fluid level checked.
.Engine air cleaner filter
inspection (vehicles driven in
dusty conditions only). See
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter
on
page 10‑17.
.Brake system inspection
(or every 12 months, whichever
occurs first).
Maintenance II
.Perform all services described in
MaintenanceI.
.Steering and suspension
inspection. Visual inspection for
damaged, loose, or missing
parts or signs of wear.
.Lubricate the front suspension,
steering linkage, and parking
brake cable guides. Control arm
ball joints require lubrication but
should not be lubricated unless
their temperature is −12°C
(10°F) or higher, or they could
be damaged.
.Engine cooling system
inspection. Visual inspection
of hoses, pipes, fittings, and
clamps and replacement,
if needed.

11-4 Service and Maintenance
.Windshield wiper blade
inspection for wear, cracking,
or contamination and windshield
and wiper blade cleaning,
if contaminated. SeeExterior
Care
on page 10‑92. Worn
or damaged wiper blade
replacement. See Wiper Blade
Replacement on page 10‑32.
.Body hinges and latches, key
lock cylinders, folding seat
hardware, and rear compartment
hinges, linkage, and handle
pivot points lubrication. See
Recommended Fluids and
Lubricants
on page 11‑8.
More frequent lubrication may
be required when vehicle
is exposed to a corrosive
environment. Applying silicone
grease on weatherstrips with a
clean cloth makes them last
longer, seal better, and not stick
or squeak.
.Restraint system component
check. See Safety System
Check on page 3‑26.
.Automatic transmission fluid
level check and adding fluid,
if needed. See Automatic
Transmission Fluid
on
page 10‑12.
.Four‐wheel drive vehicles:
Transfer case fluid level check
and adding fluid, if needed.
.Engine air cleaner filter
inspection. See Engine Air
Cleaner/Filter on page 10‑17.
Additional Required Services
At Each Fuel Stop
.Engine oil level check. See
Engine Oil on page 10‑9.
.Engine coolant level check. See
Engine Coolant on page 10‑19.
.Windshield washer fluid level
check. See Washer Fluidon
page 10‑25. Once a Month
.Tire inflation check. See
Tire
Pressure on page 10‑51.
.Tire wear inspection. See Tire
Inspection on page 10‑57.
Once a Year
.See Starter Switch Checkon
page 10‑30.
.See Automatic Transmission
Shift Lock Control System
Check on page 10‑30.
.See Ignition Transmission Lock
Check on page 10‑31.
.See Park Brake and P (Park)
Mechanism Checkon
page 10‑31.
.Engine cooling system and
pressure cap pressure check.
Radiator and air conditioning
condenser outside cleaning. See
Cooling System on page 10‑18.

Service and Maintenance 11-5
.Exhaust system and nearby heat
shields inspection for loose or
damaged components.
.Accelerator pedal check for
damage, high effort, or binding.
Replace if needed.
First Engine Oil Change After
Every 40 000 km/25,000 Miles
.Fuel system inspection for
damage or leaks.
First Engine Oil Change After
Every 80 000 km/50,000 Miles
.Engine air cleaner filter
replacement. See Engine Air
Cleaner/Filter on page 10‑17.
.Automatic transmission fluid
change (severe service) for
vehicles mainly driven in heavy
city traffic in hot weather, in
hilly or mountainous terrain,
when frequently towing a
trailer, or used for taxi, police,
or delivery service. See
Automatic Transmission Fluid
on
page 10‑12.
.Four‐wheel drive only: Transfer
case fluid change. Check vent
hose at transfer case for kinks
and proper installation. Check
to be sure vent hose is
unobstructed, clear, and free of
debris. During any maintenance,
if a power washer is used to
clean mud and dirt from the
underbody, care should be taken
to not directly spray the transfer
case output seals. High pressure
water can overcome the seals
and contaminate the transfer
case fluid. Contaminated fluid
will decrease the life of the
transfer case and should be
replaced.
First Engine Oil Change After
Every 160 000 km/100,000 Miles
.Automatic transmission fluid
change (normal service).
See Automatic Transmission
Fluid on page 10‑12.
.Rear axle fluid change (normal
service). See Rear Axleon
page 10‑29.
.Spark plug replacement and
spark plug wires inspection.
An Emission Control Service.
First Engine Oil Change After
Every 240 000 km/150,000 Miles
.Engine cooling system drain,
flush, and refill, cooling system
and cap pressure check, and
cleaning of outside of radiator
and air conditioning condenser
(or every 5 years, whichever
occurs first). See Cooling
System
on page 10‑18. An
Emission Control Service.
.Engine accessory drive belt
inspection for fraying, excessive
cracks, or obvious damage
and replacement, if needed.
An Emission Control Service.