check engine ISUZU TROOPER 1998 Service Owner's Manual

COMPRESSOR OVERHAUL 1D Ð 3
solvent, and dried with dry air. Use only lint free
cloths to wipe parts.
The operations described below are based on
bench overhaul with compressor removed from the
car, except as noted. They have been prepared in
order of accessibility of the components. When the
compressor is removed from the car for servicing,
the oil remaining in the compressor should be
discarded and new refrigerant oil added to the
compressor.
Magnetic clutch assembly repair procedures require
that the system be discharged of refrigerant. (Refer
to Section 1B for ÒREFRIGERANT RECOVERYÓ.)
Compressor malfunction will appear in one of four
ways: noise, seizure, leakage or low discharge
pressure. Resonant compressor noises are not
cause for alarm; however, irregular noise or rattles
may indicate broken parts or excessive clearances
due to wear. To check seizure, de-energize the
magnetic clutch and check to see if the drive plate
can be rotated. If rotation is impossible, the
compressor is seized. Low discharge pressure may
be due to a faulty internal seal of the compressor,
or a restriction in the compressor. Low discharge
pressure may also be due to an insufficient
refrigerant charge or a restriction elsewhere in the
system. These possibilities should be checked prior
to servicing the compressor. If the compressor is
inoperative, but is not seized, check to see if current
is being supplied to the magnetic clutch coil
terminals.
The compressor has vanes built into a rotor which
is mounted on a shaft.
When the shaft rotates, the vanes built into the
cylinder block assembly are opened by centrifugal
force.
This changes the volume of the space formed by
the rotor and cylinder, resulting in the intake and
compression of the refrigerant gas. The discharge
valve and the valve stopper, which protects the
discharge valve, are built into the cylinder block
assembly. There is no suction valve but a shaft seal
is installed between the shaft and head; a trigger
valve, which applies back pressure to the vanes, is
installed in the cylinder block and a refrigerant gas
temperature sensor is installed in the front head.
The specified quantity of compressor oil is
contained in the compressor to lubricate the various
parts using the refrigerant gas discharge pressure.
6VD1 engine is equipped with an invariable
capacity five-vane rotary compressor (DKV-14D
Type).
The compressor sucks and compresses refrigerant
by the rotation of the vane installed to the shaft,
and always discharges a fixed amount of refrigerant
independent of the load of refrigerant.The thermo sensor is installed to the front head of
the compressor to protect it by stopping its
operation when the refrigerant gas is insufficient or
when the temperature get abnormally high.
·OFF ..... 160 ±5¡C (320.0 ±9.0¡F)
·ON ..... 135 ±5¡C (275.0 ±9.0¡F)
4JG2 Engine are provided with a swash plate type
compressor (DKS-15CH Type)
Swash plate compressors have a swash (slanted)
plate mounted on the shaft. When the shaft turns,
the rotation of the swash plate is converted to
reciprocating piston motion which sucks in and
compresses the refrigerant gas.
Shaft seal (Lip type) is installed between the valve
plate and shaft & cylinder head to prevent
refrigerant gas leaks. A specified amount of
compressor oil is contained in the oil pan.
This oil is supplied to the cylinders, bearings, etc.,
by an oil pump which is connected to the swash
plate shaft.
With some compressors the differential between
the intake pressure and discharge pressure
generated while the compressor is operating is
used for lubrication instead of an oil pump.
Three pistons are arranged at 120g intervals around
the center of the swash plate shaft. These pistons
are connected to the ends of the swash plate
through shoe disks and balls.
The rotation of the swash plate causes
reciprocating movement of the piston inside the
cylinders, with each piston operating as two
cylinders. Because of that, the compressor operates
as though it has 6 cylinders.
The specified amount of the compressors oil is
150cc (4.2 Imp fl oz).
Also, compressor oil to be used varies according to
the compressor model. Be sure to avoid mixing two
or more different types of oil.
If the wrong oil is used, lubrication will be poor and
the compressor will seize or malfunction.

COMPRESSOR OVERHAUL 1D Ð 5
Checking and Adjusting for Compressor
Replacement
150cc (4.2 Imp fl oz) of oil is charged in compressor
(service parts). So it is necessary to drain the proper
amount of oil from the new compressor.
1) Perform oil return operation.
2) Discharge refrigerant and remove the
compressor.
3) Drain the compressor oil and measure the
extracted oil.
4) Check the compressor oil for contamination.
5) Adjust oil level as required.
Amount of oil drained Draining amount of oil
from used compressor from new compressor
less than Same as drained
90cc (2.5 Imp fl oz) amount
more than
90cc (2.5 Imp fl oz)
90cc (2.5 Imp fl oz)
6) Evacuate, charge and perform oil return
operation.
7) Check system operation.
CONTAMINATION OF COMPRESSOR OIL
Unlike engine oil, no cleaning agent is added to the
compressor oil. Even if the compressor runs for a
long period of time (approximately 1 season), the
oil never becomes contaminated as long as there is
nothing wrong with the compressor or its method
of use.
Inspect the extracted oil for any of the following
conditions:
·The capacity of the oil has increased.
·The oil has changed color to red.
·Foreign substances, metal powder, etc., are
present in the oil.
If any of these conditions exists, compressor oil is
contaminated. Whenever contaminated
compressor oil is discovered, the receiver/drier
must be replaced.
OIL RETURN OPERATION
There is close affinity between the oil and the
refrigerant. During normal operation, part of the oil
recirculates with the refrigerant in the system.
When checking the amount of oil in the system, or
replacing any component of the system, the
compressor must be run in advance for oil return
operation. The procedure is as follows:
1) Open the all doors and engine hood.
2) Start the engine and A/C switch is ÒONÓ and
Set the fan control knob at its highest position.
3) Run the compressor for more than 20 minutes
between 800 and 1,000 rpm in order to operate
the system.
4) Stop the engine.
REPLACEMENT OF COMPONENT PARTS
When replacing system component parts, supply
the following amount of oil to the component parts
to be installed.
Component parts to be installed Amount of oil
Evaporator 50cc (1.4 Imp fl oz)
Condenser 30cc (0.8 Imp fl oz)
Receiver/drier 30cc (0.8 Imp fl oz)
871RX013

COMPRESSOR OVERHAUL 1D Ð 25
1. Perform oil return operation.
2. Discharge and recover the refrigerant and remove
the compressor.
3. Drain the compressor oil and measure the extracted
oil.
4. Check the compressor oil for contamination.
5. Adjust the oil level as required.
6. Evacuate, charge and perform the oil return
operation.
7. Check the system operation.
Contamination of Compressor Oil
Unlike engine oil, no cleaning agent is added to the
compressor oil. Even if the compressor runs for a long
period of time (approximately one season), the oil never
becomes contaminated as long as there is nothing
wrong with the compressor or its method of use.
Inspect the extracted oil for any of the following
conditions:
·The capacity of the oil has increased.
·The oil has changed to red.
·Foreign substances, metal powder, etc., are present
in the oil.
If any of these conditions exists, the compressor
oil is contaminated. Whenever contaminated
compressor oil is discovered, the receiver/drier
must be replaced.
Oil Return Operation
There is close affinity between the oil and the
refrigerant. During normal operation, part of the oil
recirculates with the refrigerant in the system. When
checking the amount of oil in the system, or replacing
any component of the system, the compressor must be
run in advance for oil return operation. The procedure
is as follows:
1. Open all the doors and the engine hood.
2. Start the engine and air conditioning switch to "ON"
and set the fan control knob at its highest position.
3. Run the compressor for more than 20 minutes
between 800 and 1,000 rpm in order to operate the
system.
4. Stop the engine.
Replacement of Component Parts
When replacing the system component parts, supply
the following amount of oil to the component parts to be
installed.
Compressor Leak Testing (External and
Internal)
Bench-Check Procedure
1. Install test plate J-39893 on rear head of compressor.
2. Using Refrigerant Recovery System, attach center
hose of manifold gage set on charging station to a
refrigerant drum standing in an upright drum.
3. Connect charging station high and low pressure
lines to corresponding fittings on test plate J-39893.
Suction port (low-side) of compressor has large
internal opening. Discharge port (high-side) has
smaller internal opening into compressor and
deeper recess.
4. Open low pressure control, high pressure control
and refrigerant control on charging station to allow
refrigerant vapor to flow into compressor.
5. Using a leak detector, check for leaks at pressure
relief valve, rear head switch location, compressor
front and rear head seals, center cylinder seal,
through bolt head gaskets and compressor shaft
seal. After checking, shut off low pressure control
and high-pressure control on charging station.
6. If an external leak is present, perform the necessary
corrective measures and recheck for leaks to make
certain the leak has been connected.
7. Recover the refrigerant.
8. Disconnect both hoses from the test plate J-39893.
9. Add 90 ml (3 oz.) new PAG lubricant to the
compressor assembly. Rotate the complete
compressor assembly (not the crankshaft or drive
plate hub) slowly several turns to distribute oil to all
cylinder and piston areas.
10. Install a M9 ´1.25 threaded nut on the compressor
crankshaft if the drive plate and clutch assembly are
not installed.
11. Using a box-end wrench or socket and handle,
rotate the compressor crankshaft or clutch drive
plate on the crankshaft several turns to insure
piston assembly to cylinder wall lubrication.
12. Using Refrigerant Recovery System, connect the
charging station high-pressure line to the test plate
J-39893 high-side connector.
13. Using Refrigerant Recovery System, connect the
charging station low-pressure line to the low
pressure port of the test plate J-39893. Oil will drain
out of the compressor suction port if the compressor
is positioned with the suction port downward. (Component parts to be (Amount of Oil)
installed)
Evaporator 50 cc (1.7 fl. oz.)
Condenser 30 cc (1.0 fl. oz.)
Receiver/dryer 30 cc (1.0 fl. oz.)
Refrigerant line (one 10 cc (0.3 fl. oz.)
piece)
(Amount of oil drained (Charging amount of oil
from used compressor) to new compressor)
more than 90 cc same as drained amount
(3.0 fl.oz)
less than 90 cc (3.0 fl.oz) 90 cc (3.0 fl.oz)

SERVICE INFORMATION 00 – 13
STEERING
INSPECTION
Visual check
Check the following parts:
• Oil leakage.
• Steering system for looseness or damage.
• Steering function
• Joint ball for oil leakage or damage.
• Joint ball rubber boot for damage.
MAINTENANCE
The hydraulic system should be kept clean and fluid level
in the reservoir should be checked at regular intervals and
fluid added when required. Refer to "MAINTENANCE AND
LUBRICATION" in section 0B of the manual for type of
fluid to be used and intervals for filling.
If the system contains some dirt, flush it as detailed later
in this section. If it is exceptionally dirty, both the pump
and the gear must be completely disassembled before
further usage.
All tubes, hoses, and fittings should be inspected for
leakage at regular intervals. Fittings must be tight. Make
sure the clips, clamps and supporting tubes and hoses are
in place and properly secured.
Power steering hoses and lines must not be twisted,
kinked or tightly bent. Air in the system will cause spongy
action and noisy operation. When a hose is disconnected
or when fluid is lost, for any reason, the system must be
bled after refilling. Refer to "Bleeding the Power Steering
System" in this section.
FLUID LEVEL
1. Run the engine until the power steering fluid reaches
normal operating temperature, about 55°C (130°F),
then shut the engine off.
2. Check the level of fluid in the reservoir.
3. If the fluid level is low, add power steering fluid as
specified in "MAINTENANCE AND LUBRICATION" in
section 0B to the proper level and install the receiver
cap.
4. When checking the fluid level after the steering
system has been serviced, air must be bled from the
system. Refer to "Bleeding the Power Steering
System" in this section.
SERVICING

00 – 14 SERVICE INFORMATION
STEERING WHEEL FREE PLAY
ADJUSTMENT
INSPECTION
1. Check the amount of steering wheel play by turning
the wheel in both directions until the tires begin to
move with the front wheels properly in the straight
ahead position.
NOTE:
The wheel free play should be checked with the engine
running.
Steering Wheel Free Play mm (in)
0 – 30 (0 – 1.18)
2. Also check the steering wheel for play and looseness
in mount by moving it back and froth and sideways.
While driving, check for hard-steering, steering
shimmy and tendency to pull to one side.
ADJUSTMENT
1. Align the front wheels properly in the straight ahead
position.
2. Loosen the lock nut on the adjusting screw of the
steering gear.
3. Turn the adjust screw clockwise to decrease free play
or counter-clockwise to increase.
4. After check of specified free play, tighten the lock nut
to specified torque.
Lock Nut Torque N·m (kg·m/lb·ft)
41 (4.2 / 30)

2A – 10 POWER STEERING
POWER STEERING SYSTEM TEST
TEST PROCEDURE
Test of fluid pressure in the power steering system
is performed to determine whether or not the oil
pump and power steering unit are functioning
normally.
The power steering system test is method used to
identify and isolate hydraulic circuit difficulties.
Prior to performing this test, the following
inspections and corrections, if necessary, must be
made.
INSPECT
•Pump reservoir for proper fluid level.
•Pump belt for proper tension.
•Pump driver pulley condition.
1. Place a container under the pump to catch the
fluid when disconnecting or connecting the
hoses.
2. With the engine NOT running , disconnect the
pressure hose at the power steering pump and
install Power Steering tester.
The gage must be between the shutoff valve
and pump. Open the shutoff valve.
Tester: 5-8840-0135-0 (J-29877-A)
Adapter: 5-8840-2297-0 (For 6VD1, 6VE1, 4JX1)
5-8840-0136-0 (For 4JG2)3. Check the fluid level. Fill the reservoir with
power steering fluid, to the “Full” mark. Start
the engine then turn the steering wheel and
momentarily hold it against a stop. Turn off
and check the connections at tester for leakage.
4. Bleed the system. Refer to “Bleeding the
Power Steering System” in this section.
5. Start the engine and check the pump fluid
level. Add power steering fluid if required.
When the engine is at normal operating
temperature, increase engine speed to 1500
rpm.
CAUTION:
Do not leave shutoff valve fully closed for more
than 5 seconds, as the pump could become
damaged internally.
6. Fully close the shutoff valve. Record the
highest pressures.
•If the pressure recorded is within 9300-9800
kPa (1350-1420 psi) For 6VD1, 6VE1, and
9800-10300 kPa (100-105 kg/cm
2/ 1420-1490
psi) For 4JG2, 4JX1, the pump is functioning
within its specifications.
•If the pressure recorded is higher than 9800
kPa (1420 psi) For 6VD1, 6VE1, and 10300
kPa (105 kg/cm
2/ 1490 psi) For 4JG2, 4JX1,
the valve in the pump is defective.

POWER STEERING 2A – 11
•If the pressure recorded is lower than 9300
kPa (1350 psi) For 6VD1, 6VE1, and 9800 kPa
(100 kg/cm
2/ 1420 psi) For 4JG2, 4JX1, the
valve or the rotating group in the pump is
defective.
7. If the pump pressure are within specifications,
leave the valve open and turn (or have
someone else turn) the steering wheel fully in
both directions. Record the highest pressures
and compare with the maximum pump
pressure recorded in step 6. If this pressure cannot be built in either (or one) side of the
power steering gear, the power steering gear is
leaking internally and must be disassembled
and repaired.
8. Shut the engine off, remove the testing gage,
reconnect the pressure hose, check the fluid
level and make the needed repairs.
9. If the problem still exists, the steering and front
suspension must be thoroughly examined.

BLEEDING THE POWER
STEERING SYSTEM
When a power steering pump or gear has been
installed, or an oil line has been disconnected, the
air that has entered the system must be bled out
before the vehicle is operated. If air is allowed to
remain in the power steering fluid system, noisy
and unsatisfactory operation of the system may
result.
BLEEDING PROCEDURE
When bleeding the system, and any time fluid is
added to the power steering system, be sure to use
only power steering fluid as specified in
“MAINTENANCE AND LUBRICATION” in section
0B.
1. Fill the pump fluid reservoir to the proper
level and let the fluid settle for at least two
minutes.
2. Start the engine and let it run for a few
seconds.
Do not turn the steering wheel. Then turn the
engine off.
3. Add fluid if necessary.
4. Repeat the above procedure until the fluid
level remains constant after running the
engine.
5. Raise the front end of the vehicle so that the
wheels are off the ground.
6. Start the engine. Slowly turn the steering
wheel right and left, lightly contacting the
wheel stops.
7. Add power steering fluid if necessary.
8. Bring down the vehicle, set the steering wheel
at the straight forward position after turning it
to its full steer positions 2 or 3 times, and stop
the engine.
9. Stop the engine. Check the fluid level and
refill as required.
10. If the fluid is extremely foamy, allow the
vehicle to stand a few minutes and repeat the
above procedure.
INSPECT
•Belt for tightness.
•Pulley for looseness or damage. The pulley
should not wobble with the engine running.
•Make sure that hose and pipes are properly
fitted.
•Fluid level and fill to the proper level.
FLUSHING THE POWER
STEERING SYSTEM
1. Raise the front end of the vehicle off the
ground until the wheels are free to turn.
2. Remove the fluid return line at the reservoir
inlet connector and plug the connector.
Position the line toward a large container to
catch the draining fluid.
3. While running the engine at idle, fill the
reservoir with new power steering fluid. Turn
the steering wheel in both directions. Do not
contact wheel stops or hold the wheel in a
corner, or fluid will stop and the pump will be
in pressure relief mode. A sudden overflow
from the reservoir may develop if the wheel is
held at a stop.
4. While refilling the reservoir, check the
draining fluid for contamination. If foreign
material is still evident, replace all lines,
disassemble and clean or replace the power
steering system components. Do not re-use
any drained power steering fluid.
5. Install all the lines and hoses. Fill the system
with new power steering fluid and bleed the
system as described in “Bleeding The Power
Steering System”. Operate the engine for
about 15 minutes. 2A – 12 POWER STEERING
ON-VEHICLE SERVICE

DIFFERENTIAL (REAR 220mm)
4A2A±3
Diagnosis
Many noises that seem to come from the rear axle
actually originate from other sources such as tires, road
surface, wheel bearings, engine, transmission, muffler, or
body drumming. Investigate to find the source of the
noise before disassembling the rear axle. Rear axles, like
any other mechanical device, are not absolutely quiet but
should be considered quiet unless some abnormal noise
is present.
To make a systematic check for axle noise, observe the
following:
1. Select a level asphalt road to reduce tire noise and
body drumming.
2. Check rear axle lubricant level to assure correct level,
and then drive the vehicle far enough to thoroughly
warm up the rear axle lubricant.
3. Note the speed at which noise occurs. Stop the
vehicle and put the transmission in neutral. Run the
engine speed slowly up and down to determine if the
noise is caused by exhaust, muffler noise, or other
engine conditions.
4. Tire noise changes with different road surfaces; axle
noises do not. Temporarily inflate all tires to 344 kPa
(3.5kg/cm
2, 50 psi) (for test purposes only). This will
change noise caused by tires but will not affect noise
caused by the rear axle.
Rear axle noise usually stops when coasting at
speeds under 48 km/h (30 mph); however, tire noise
continues with a lower tone. Rear axle noise usually
changes when comparing pull and coast, but tire
noise stays about the same.
Distinguish between tire noise and rear axle noise by
noting if the noise changes with various speeds or
sudden acceleration and deceleration. Exhaust and
axle noise vary under these conditions, while tire
noise remains constant and is more pronounced at
speeds of 32 to 48 km/h (20 to 30 mph). Further check
for tire noise by driving the vehicle over smooth
pavements or dirt roads (not gravel) with the tires at
normal pressure. If the noise is caused by tires, it will
change noticeably with changes in road surface.
5. Loose or rough front wheel bearings will cause noise
which may be confused with rear axle noise; however,
front wheel bearing noise does not change when
comparing drive and coast. Light application of the
brake while holding vehicle speed steady will often
cause wheel bearing noise to diminish. Front wheel
bearings may be checked for noise by jacking up the
wheels and spinning them or by shaking the wheels to
determine if bearings are loose.
6. Rear suspension rubber bushings and spring
insulators dampen out rear axle noise when correctly
installed. Check to see that there is no link or rod
loosened or metal±to±metal contact.
7. Make sure that there is no metal±to±metal contact
between the floor and the frame.
After the noise has been determined to be in the axle, the
type of axle noise should be determined, in order to make
any necessary repairs.
Gear Noise
Gear noise (whine) is audible from 32 to 89 km/h (20 to 55
mph) under four driving conditions.
1. Driving under acceleration or heavy pull.
2. Driving under load or under constant speed.
3. When using enough throttle to keep the vehicle from
driving the engine while the vehicle slows down
gradually (engine still pulls slightly).
4. When coasting with the vehicle in gear and the throttle
closed. The gear noise is usually more noticeable
between 48 and 64 km/h (30 and 40 mph) and 80 and
89 km/h (50 and 55 mph).
Bearing Noise
Bad bearings generally produce a rough growl or grating
sound, rather than the whine typical of gear noise.
Bearing noise frequently ªwow±wowsº at bearing rpm,
indicating a bad pinion or rear axle side bearing. This
noise can be confused with rear wheel bearing noise.
Rear Wheel Bearing Noise
Rear wheel bearing noise continues to be heard while
coasting at low speed with transmission in neutral. Noise
may diminish by gentle braking. Jack up the rear wheels,
spin them by hand and listen for noise at the hubs.
Replace any faulty wheel bearings.
Knock At Low Speeds
Low speed knock can be caused by worn universal joints
or a side gear hub counter bore in the cage that is worn
oversize. Inspect and replace universal joints or cage and
side gears as required.
Backlash Clunk
Excessive clunk on acceleration and deceleration can be
caused by a worn rear axle pinion shaft, a worn cage,
excessive clearance between the axle and the side gear
splines, excessive clearance between the side gear hub
and the counterbore in the cage, worn pinion and side
gear teeth, worn thrust washers, or excessive drive pinion
and ring gear backlash. Remove worn parts and replace
as required. Select close±fitting parts when possible.
Adjust pinion and ring gear backlash.

DIFFERENTIAL (REAR 244mm)
4A2B±3
Diagnosis
Many noises that seem to come from the rear axle
actually originate from other sources such as tires, road
surface, wheel bearings, engine, transmission, muffler, or
body drumming. Investigate to find the source of the
noise before disassembling the rear axle. Rear axles, like
any other mechanical device, are not absolutely quiet but
should be considered quiet unless some abnormal noise
is present.
To make a systematic check for axle noise, observe the
following:
1. Select a level asphalt road to reduce tire noise and
body drumming.
2. Check rear axle lubricant level to assure correct level,
and then drive the vehicle far enough to thoroughly
warm up the rear axle lubricant.
3. Note the speed at which noise occurs. Stop the
vehicle and put the transmission in neutral. Run the
engine speed slowly up and down to determine if the
noise is caused by exhaust, muffler noise, or other
engine conditions.
4. Tire noise changes with different road surfaces; axle
noises do not. Temporarily inflate all tires to 344 kPa
(3.5kg/cm
2, 50 psi) (for test purposes only). This will
change noise caused by tires but will not affect noise
caused by the rear axle.
Rear axle noise usually stops when coasting at
speeds under 48 km/h (30 mph); however, tire noise
continues with a lower tone. Rear axle noise usually
changes when comparing pull and coast, but tire
noise stays about the same.
Distinguish between tire noise and rear axle noise by
noting if the noise changes with various speeds or
sudden acceleration and deceleration. Exhaust and
axle noise vary under these conditions, while tire
noise remains constant and is more pronounced at
speeds of 32 to 48 km/h (20 to 30 mph). Further check
for tire noise by driving the vehicle over smooth
pavements or dirt roads (not gravel) with the tires at
normal pressure. If the noise is caused by tires, it will
change noticeably with changes in road surface.
5. Loose or rough front wheel bearings will cause noise
which may be confused with rear axle noise; however,
front wheel bearing noise does not change when
comparing drive and coast. Light application of the
brake while holding vehicle speed steady will often
cause wheel bearing noise to diminish. Front wheel
bearings may be checked for noise by jacking up the
wheels and spinning them or by shaking the wheels to
determine if bearings are loose.
6. Rear suspension rubber bushings and spring
insulators dampen out rear axle noise when correctly
installed. Check to see that there is no link or rod
loosened or metal±to±metal contact.
7. Make sure that there is no metal±to±metal contact
between the floor and the frame.
After the noise has been determined to be in the axle, the
type of axle noise should be determined, in order to make
any necessary repairs.
Gear Noise
Gear noise (whine) is audible from 32 to 89 km/h (20 to 55
mph) under four driving conditions.
1. Driving under acceleration or heavy pull.
2. Driving under load or under constant speed.
3. When using enough throttle to keep the vehicle from
driving the engine while the vehicle slows down
gradually (engine still pulls slightly).
4. When coasting with the vehicle in gear and the throttle
closed. The gear noise is usually more noticeable
between 48 and 64 km/h (30 and 40 mph) and 80 and
89 km/h (50 and 55 mph).
Bearing Noise
Bad bearings generally produce a rough growl or grating
sound, rather than the whine typical of gear noise.
Bearing noise frequently ªwow±wowsº at bearing rpm,
indicating a bad pinion or rear axle side bearing. This
noise can be confused with rear wheel bearing noise.
Rear Wheel Bearing Noise
Rear wheel bearing noise continues to be heard while
coasting at low speed with transmission in neutral. Noise
may diminish by gentle braking. Jack up the rear wheels,
spin them by hand and listen for noise at the hubs.
Replace any faulty wheel bearings.
Knock At Low Speeds
Low speed knock can be caused by worn universal joints
or a side gear hub counter bore in the cage that is worn
oversize. Inspect and replace universal joints or cage and
side gears as required.
Backlash Clunk
Excessive clunk on acceleration and deceleration can be
caused by a worn rear axle pinion shaft, a worn cage,
excessive clearance between the axle and the side gear
splines, excessive clearance between the side gear hub
and the counterbore in the cage, worn pinion and side
gear teeth, worn thrust washers, or excessive drive pinion
and ring gear backlash. Remove worn parts and replace
as required. Select close±fitting parts when possible.
Adjust pinion and ring gear backlash.