change wheel ISUZU TROOPER 1998 Service Repair Manual

0BÐ2 MAINTENANCE AND LUBRICATION
MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE
GASOLINE ENGINE MODELI: Inspect and correct or replace as necessary A: Adjust
R: Replace or change T: Tighten to specified torque L: Lubricate
SERVICE INTERVAL: x 1,000 km
(Use odometer reading x 1,000 miles
or months whichever comes first) or months5
3
610
6
1215
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1820
12
2425
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3030
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3635
21
4240
24
4845
27
5450
30
6055
33
6660
36
7265
39
7870
42
8475
45
9080
48
9685
51
10290
54
10895
57
114100
60
120
GASOLINE ENGINE
* Engine oil
* Engine oil filter
Oil leakage and contamination
* Timing belt
Spark plugs (For leaded fuel use)
Spark plugs (For unleaded fuel use)
Exhaust system
Radiator coolant concentration
Cooling system for water leakage
All hoses and pipes in engine compartment
for clog or damage
Fuel filter
Fuel leakage
Fuel tank
* Air cleaner element
Pre air cleaner
Engine drive belt
Valve clearance
O
2 Sensor (For leaded fuel use)
O
2 Sensor (For unleaded fuel use)-
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(Replace every 165,000 km or 100,000 miles)
(Replace every 165,000 km or 100,000 miles)
(Check and adjust if necessary every 100,000 km or 60,000 miles)
(Replace every 150,000 km or 90,000 miles)
CLUTCH
Clutch fluid
Clutch pedal travel and free play
TRANSMISSION OR TRANSMISSION WITH
TRANSFER CASE
* Manual transmission with transfer case oil
* Automatic transmission fluid leakage
*
(1)Automatic transmission fluid
* Transfer case oil
PROPELLER SHAFT
Loose connections
*
Universal joints and splines for wear
Universal joints and sliding sleeve (front and rear)
FRONT AND REAR AXLE
* Differential gear oil (Front and rear)
Shift on the fly system gear oil
Front axle shaft rubber boot for damage
Axle case for distortion or damage
Axle shafts for distortion or damage-
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ATATAT
STEERING
* Power steering fluid
Oil leakage
* Steering system for looseness or damage
Power steering hose
Steering wheel play
Steering function
Right and left turning radius
Wheel alignment
Joint ball for oil leakage or damage
Joint ball rubber boot for damage
SERVICE BRAKES
Brake fluid
Brake system for fluid leakage
Brake function
* Disc brake pads and discs wear
Brake pedal travel and free play
Pipes and hoses for loose connections or damage
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(1): Adjust or change automatic transmission fluid.
*Marks: Under severe driving conditions, additional maintenance is required.
Refer to “Maintenance schedule under severe driving conditions”.

MAINTENANCE AND LUBRICATION 0BÐ3
GASOLINE ENGINE MODELI: Inspect and correct or replace as necessary A: Adjust
R: Replace or change T: Tighten to specified torque L: Lubricate
SERVICE INTERVAL: x 1,000 km
(Use odometer reading x 1,000 miles
or months whichever comes first) or months5
3
610
6
1215
9
1820
12
2425
15
3030
18
3635
21
4240
24
4845
27
5450
30
6055
33
6660
36
7265
39
7870
42
8475
45
9080
48
9685
51
10290
54
10895
57
114100
60
120
PARKING BRAKE
Parking brake function
Parking brake lever travel
Cables for looseness or damage and guide for
damage
Ratchet for wear or damage
SUSPENSION
Spring leaves for damage
Mount for looseness or damage
Shock absorbers for oil leakage
Shock absorbers mount for looseness
Rubber bushes of suspension wear or damage
Spring action for loss of balance due to weakeningJoint ball rubber boot for damage
WHEELS
Wheel pins
Wheel disc for damage
Hub bearing grease
Front and rear hub bearings for looseness
Tire pressure and damage
Tire rotation
OTHERS
Bolts and nuts on chassis and body
Lube front free-wheeling hubs-
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(Rotate as required)
*Marks: Under severe driving conditions, additional maintenance is required.
Refer to “Maintenance schedule under severe driving conditions”.

0BÐ4 MAINTENANCE AND LUBRICATION
DIESEL ENGINE MODELI: Inspect and correct or replace as necessary A: Adjust
R: Replace or change T: Tighten to specified torque L: Lubricate
SERVICE INTERVAL: x 1,000 km
(Use odometer reading x 1,000 miles
or months whichever comes first) or months5
3
610
6
1215
9
1820
12
2425
15
3030
18
3635
21
4240
24
4845
27
5450
30
6055
33
6660
36
7265
39
7870
42
8475
45
9080
48
9685
51
10290
54
10895
57
114100
60
120
DIESEL ENGINE
* Engine oil
* Engine oil filter
Oil leakage and contamination
Idling speed and acceleration
Fan belt tension and damage
Timing belt
Exhaust system
All hoses and pipes in engine compartment
for clog or damage
Valve clearance
* Air cleaner element
Fuel filter
Radiator coolant concentration
Cooling system for water leakage-
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NOTE: In the 4JXI-TC diesel engine, there is provided sub (2nd) oil filter for fuel injection at the upper part of crank case on the left
side of the engine. This oil filter maintenance-free and does not need a periodic replacement. See reverse side the (back)
cover for installation location of the sub (2nd) oil filter.(Replace every 200,000 km or 125,000 miles)
*Marks: Under severe driving conditions, additional maintenance is required.
Refer to “Maintenance schedule under severe driving conditions”. CLUTCH
Clutch fluid
Clutch pedal travel and free play
TRANSMISSION OR TRANSMISSION WITH
TRANSFER CASE
* Manual transmission with transfer case oil
* Automatic transmission fluid
* Transfer case oil
PROPELLER SHAFT
Loose connections
* Universal joints and splines for wear
Universal joints and sliding sleeve (front and rear)FRONT AND REAR AXLE
* Differential gear oil (Front and rear)
Shift on the fly system gear oil
Front axle shaft rubber boot for damage
Axle case for distortion or damage
Axle shafts for distortion or damage-
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ATAT
STEERING
* Power steering fluid
Oil leakage
* Steering system for looseness or damage
Power steering hose
Steering wheel play
Steering function
Right and left turning radius
Wheel alignment
Joint ball for oil leakage or damage
Joint ball rubber boot for damage
SERVICE BRAKES
Brake fluid
Brake system for fluid leakage
Brake function
* Disc brake pads and discs wear
Brake pedal travel and free play
Pipes and hoses for loose connections or damage
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MAINTENANCE AND LUBRICATION 0BÐ5
DIESEL ENGINE MODELI: Inspect and correct or replace as necessary A: Adjust
R: Replace or change T: Tighten to specified torque L: Lubricate
SERVICE INTERVAL: x 1,000 km
(Use odometer reading x 1,000 miles
or months whichever comes first) or months5
3
610
6
1215
9
1820
12
2425
15
3030
18
3635
21
4240
24
4845
27
5450
30
6055
33
6660
36
7265
39
7870
42
8475
45
9080
48
9685
51
10290
54
10895
57
114100
60
120
PARKING BRAKE
Parking brake function
Parking brake lever travel
Cables for looseness or damage and guide for
damage
Ratchet for wear or damage
SUSPENSION
Spring leaves for damage
Mount for looseness or damage
Shock absorbers for oil leakage
Shock absorbers mount for looseness
Rubber bushes of suspension wear or damage
Spring action for loss of balance due to weakeningJoint ball rubber boot for damage
WHEELS
Wheel pins
Wheel disc for damage
Hub bearing grease
Front and rear hub bearings for looseness
Tire pressure and damage
Tire rotation
OTHERS
Bolts and nuts on chassis and body
Lube front free-wheeling hubs-
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(Rotate as required)
*Marks: Under severe driving conditions, additional maintenance is required.
Refer to “Maintenance schedule under severe driving conditions”.

INSPECTION
Before making any adjustments affecting caster, camber
or toe-in, the following front end inspection should be
made.
INSPECT
1. Tires for proper inflation pressure. Refer to “Wheels
and Tires” in section 3E.
2. Front wheel bearings for proper adjustment. Refer to
“Front Wheel Drive” in section 4C.
3. Ball joints, tie rod ends and relay rods. If excessive
looseness is noted, correct before adjusting. Refer to
“Steering Linkage” in section 2A.
4. Wheel and tires for run-out. Refer to “Wheels and
Tires”in section 3E.
5. Trim height. If not within specifications, the
correction must be made before adjusting caster.
6. Steering gear for looseness at the frame.
7. Shock absorbers for leaks or any noticeable noise.
Refer to “Front Suspension” in section 3C.
8. Control arms or stabilizer bar attachment for
looseness. Refer to “Front Suspension“ in section 3C.
9. Alignment equipment. Follow the manufacturer’s
instructions.
10. Level of the vehicle. The vehicle must be on a level
surface.
TRIM HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT
Adjust the trim height by means of the adjusting bolt on
the height control arms.
CAUTION:
When adjusting front end alignment, be sure to begin
with trim height as trim height adjustment may change
other adjusted alignments.
1. Check and adjust the tire inflation pressures.
2. Park the vehicle on a level ground and move the front
of the vehicle up and down several times to settle the
suspension.
3. Make necessary adjustment with the adjusting bolt
on the height control arms.
Trim Height(Z) mm(in)
139 ± 5 (5.47 ± 0.2)FRONT END ALIGNMENT 2A – 3
ON-VEHICLE SERVICE

FRONT END ALIGNMENT 2A – 5
Position of shim
Camber angle Caster angle
Front side Rear side
When added When removed Decreases Decreases
When removed When added Increases Increases
Caster shim
When removed Unchanged Decreases
When added Unchanged Increases
When added Decreases Unchanged
Camber shim
When removed Increases Unchanged
TOE-IN ADJUSTMENT
1. To adjust the toe-in angle, loosen the lock nuts on the
outer track rods and turn the outer track rods. Turn
both rods the same amount, to keep the steering
wheel centered.
Toe-in mm(in)
0 ± 2 (0 ± 0.08)
2. Tighten the lock nut to the specified torque.
Lock Nut Torque N·m (kg·m/lb·ft)
118 (12.0 / 87)
MAXIMUM STEERING ANGLE
ADJUSTMENT
The maximum steering angle of the front wheels can be
adjusted with the stopper bolts under the frame side
members.
1. Position each front wheel on the turning radius gauge
in a straight-ahead position.
2. Set the parking brake firmly.
3. Adjust the inside wheel angle of each side with the
stopper bolts.
NOTE:
The maximum protruding length (L) of stopper bolt from
the lock nut should be 10 mm (0.4 in) or less.

3C – 2 FRONT SUSPENSION
GENERAL DESCRIPTION
The front suspension is designed to allow each
wheel to compensate for changes in the road
surface level without greatly affecting the opposite
wheel. Each wheel is independently connected to
the frame by a steering knuckle, ball joint
assemblies, and upper and lower control arms.
The front wheels are held in proper relationship to
each other by two outer track rods which are
connected to steering arms on the knuckles and to
a center track rod.
All models have a front suspension system
consisting of control arms, stabilizer bar, shock
absorber and a torsion bar. The front end of the
torsion bar is attached to the lower control arm.
The rear of the torsion bar is mounted into a height
control arm at the crossmember. Vehicle trim
height is controlled by adjusting this arm.
Shock absorbers are mounted between the
brackets on the frame and the lower control arms.The lower portion of each shock absorber is
attached to the lower control arm by a bolt and nut.
The upper portion of each shock absorber extends
through a frame bracket and is secured with two
rubber bushings, three retainers and a nut.
Ball joint assemblies are bolted to the outer end of
the upper and lower control arm and are attached
to the steering knuckle by nuts and cotter pins.
The inner ends of the upper control arm have
pressed in bushings. Bolts passing through the
bushing, attach the control arm to the frame. The
inner ends of the lower control arm are attached to
the frame by bolts passing through the bushings,
which are pressed in the frame.
Side roll of the front suspension is controlled by a
spring steel stabilizer bar. It is mounted in rubber
bushings, which are held to the crossmember by
brackets. The ends of the stabilizer are connected
to the lower control arms by link bolts isolated by
rubber bushings.

3E – 4 WHEELS AND TIRES
TIRES
REPLACEMENT
When replacement is necessary, the original metric size
should be used. Most metric tire sizes do not have exact
corresponding alphanumeric tire sizes. It is recommended
that new tires be installed in pairs on the same axle. If
necessary to replace only one tire, it should be paired with
tire having the most tread, to equalize braking traction.
CAUTION:
Do not mix different types of tires such as radial, bias and
bias-belted tires except in emergencies, because vehicle
handling may be seriously affected and may result in loss
of control.
TIRE MOUNTING
Remove valve cap on valve stem and deflate the tire.
Then use a tire changing machine to mount or dismount
tires.
Follow the equipment manufacturer’s instruction. Do not
use hand tools or tire lever alone to change tires as they
may damage the tire beads or wheel rim.
TIRE DISMOUNTING
Rim bead seats should be cleaned with a wire brush or
coarse steel wool to remove lubricants, and light rust.
Before mounting a tire, the bead area should be well
lubricated with an approved tire lubricant.
After mounting, inflate the tire to 196 kPa (28 psi) so that
beads are completely seated. Inflate the air to specified
pressure and install valve cap to the stem
WARNING:
NEVER STAND OVER TIRE WHEN INFLATING. BEAD MAY
BREAK WHEN BEAD SNAPS OVER RIM’S SAFETY HUMP
AND CAUSE SERIOUS PERSONAL INJURY.
NEVER EXCEED 240 kPa (35 psi) PRESSURE WHEN
INFLATING. IF 240 kPa (35 psi) PRESSURE WILL NOT
SEAT BEADS, DEFLATE, RE-LUBRICATE AND RE-INFLATE.
OVER INFLATION MAY CAUSE THE BEAD TO BREAK AND
CAUSE SERIOUS PERSONAL INJURY.
TIRE REPAIR
There are many different materials on the market used to
repair tires.
Manufacturers have published detailed instructions on
how and when to repair tires. These instructions can be
obtained from the tire manufacturer if they are not
included with the repair kit.
UNIT REPAIR

DIFFERENTIAL (REAR 220mm)
4A2A±3
Diagnosis
Many noises that seem to come from the rear axle
actually originate from other sources such as tires, road
surface, wheel bearings, engine, transmission, muffler, or
body drumming. Investigate to find the source of the
noise before disassembling the rear axle. Rear axles, like
any other mechanical device, are not absolutely quiet but
should be considered quiet unless some abnormal noise
is present.
To make a systematic check for axle noise, observe the
following:
1. Select a level asphalt road to reduce tire noise and
body drumming.
2. Check rear axle lubricant level to assure correct level,
and then drive the vehicle far enough to thoroughly
warm up the rear axle lubricant.
3. Note the speed at which noise occurs. Stop the
vehicle and put the transmission in neutral. Run the
engine speed slowly up and down to determine if the
noise is caused by exhaust, muffler noise, or other
engine conditions.
4. Tire noise changes with different road surfaces; axle
noises do not. Temporarily inflate all tires to 344 kPa
(3.5kg/cm
2, 50 psi) (for test purposes only). This will
change noise caused by tires but will not affect noise
caused by the rear axle.
Rear axle noise usually stops when coasting at
speeds under 48 km/h (30 mph); however, tire noise
continues with a lower tone. Rear axle noise usually
changes when comparing pull and coast, but tire
noise stays about the same.
Distinguish between tire noise and rear axle noise by
noting if the noise changes with various speeds or
sudden acceleration and deceleration. Exhaust and
axle noise vary under these conditions, while tire
noise remains constant and is more pronounced at
speeds of 32 to 48 km/h (20 to 30 mph). Further check
for tire noise by driving the vehicle over smooth
pavements or dirt roads (not gravel) with the tires at
normal pressure. If the noise is caused by tires, it will
change noticeably with changes in road surface.
5. Loose or rough front wheel bearings will cause noise
which may be confused with rear axle noise; however,
front wheel bearing noise does not change when
comparing drive and coast. Light application of the
brake while holding vehicle speed steady will often
cause wheel bearing noise to diminish. Front wheel
bearings may be checked for noise by jacking up the
wheels and spinning them or by shaking the wheels to
determine if bearings are loose.
6. Rear suspension rubber bushings and spring
insulators dampen out rear axle noise when correctly
installed. Check to see that there is no link or rod
loosened or metal±to±metal contact.
7. Make sure that there is no metal±to±metal contact
between the floor and the frame.
After the noise has been determined to be in the axle, the
type of axle noise should be determined, in order to make
any necessary repairs.
Gear Noise
Gear noise (whine) is audible from 32 to 89 km/h (20 to 55
mph) under four driving conditions.
1. Driving under acceleration or heavy pull.
2. Driving under load or under constant speed.
3. When using enough throttle to keep the vehicle from
driving the engine while the vehicle slows down
gradually (engine still pulls slightly).
4. When coasting with the vehicle in gear and the throttle
closed. The gear noise is usually more noticeable
between 48 and 64 km/h (30 and 40 mph) and 80 and
89 km/h (50 and 55 mph).
Bearing Noise
Bad bearings generally produce a rough growl or grating
sound, rather than the whine typical of gear noise.
Bearing noise frequently ªwow±wowsº at bearing rpm,
indicating a bad pinion or rear axle side bearing. This
noise can be confused with rear wheel bearing noise.
Rear Wheel Bearing Noise
Rear wheel bearing noise continues to be heard while
coasting at low speed with transmission in neutral. Noise
may diminish by gentle braking. Jack up the rear wheels,
spin them by hand and listen for noise at the hubs.
Replace any faulty wheel bearings.
Knock At Low Speeds
Low speed knock can be caused by worn universal joints
or a side gear hub counter bore in the cage that is worn
oversize. Inspect and replace universal joints or cage and
side gears as required.
Backlash Clunk
Excessive clunk on acceleration and deceleration can be
caused by a worn rear axle pinion shaft, a worn cage,
excessive clearance between the axle and the side gear
splines, excessive clearance between the side gear hub
and the counterbore in the cage, worn pinion and side
gear teeth, worn thrust washers, or excessive drive pinion
and ring gear backlash. Remove worn parts and replace
as required. Select close±fitting parts when possible.
Adjust pinion and ring gear backlash.

DIFFERENTIAL (REAR 244mm)
4A2B±3
Diagnosis
Many noises that seem to come from the rear axle
actually originate from other sources such as tires, road
surface, wheel bearings, engine, transmission, muffler, or
body drumming. Investigate to find the source of the
noise before disassembling the rear axle. Rear axles, like
any other mechanical device, are not absolutely quiet but
should be considered quiet unless some abnormal noise
is present.
To make a systematic check for axle noise, observe the
following:
1. Select a level asphalt road to reduce tire noise and
body drumming.
2. Check rear axle lubricant level to assure correct level,
and then drive the vehicle far enough to thoroughly
warm up the rear axle lubricant.
3. Note the speed at which noise occurs. Stop the
vehicle and put the transmission in neutral. Run the
engine speed slowly up and down to determine if the
noise is caused by exhaust, muffler noise, or other
engine conditions.
4. Tire noise changes with different road surfaces; axle
noises do not. Temporarily inflate all tires to 344 kPa
(3.5kg/cm
2, 50 psi) (for test purposes only). This will
change noise caused by tires but will not affect noise
caused by the rear axle.
Rear axle noise usually stops when coasting at
speeds under 48 km/h (30 mph); however, tire noise
continues with a lower tone. Rear axle noise usually
changes when comparing pull and coast, but tire
noise stays about the same.
Distinguish between tire noise and rear axle noise by
noting if the noise changes with various speeds or
sudden acceleration and deceleration. Exhaust and
axle noise vary under these conditions, while tire
noise remains constant and is more pronounced at
speeds of 32 to 48 km/h (20 to 30 mph). Further check
for tire noise by driving the vehicle over smooth
pavements or dirt roads (not gravel) with the tires at
normal pressure. If the noise is caused by tires, it will
change noticeably with changes in road surface.
5. Loose or rough front wheel bearings will cause noise
which may be confused with rear axle noise; however,
front wheel bearing noise does not change when
comparing drive and coast. Light application of the
brake while holding vehicle speed steady will often
cause wheel bearing noise to diminish. Front wheel
bearings may be checked for noise by jacking up the
wheels and spinning them or by shaking the wheels to
determine if bearings are loose.
6. Rear suspension rubber bushings and spring
insulators dampen out rear axle noise when correctly
installed. Check to see that there is no link or rod
loosened or metal±to±metal contact.
7. Make sure that there is no metal±to±metal contact
between the floor and the frame.
After the noise has been determined to be in the axle, the
type of axle noise should be determined, in order to make
any necessary repairs.
Gear Noise
Gear noise (whine) is audible from 32 to 89 km/h (20 to 55
mph) under four driving conditions.
1. Driving under acceleration or heavy pull.
2. Driving under load or under constant speed.
3. When using enough throttle to keep the vehicle from
driving the engine while the vehicle slows down
gradually (engine still pulls slightly).
4. When coasting with the vehicle in gear and the throttle
closed. The gear noise is usually more noticeable
between 48 and 64 km/h (30 and 40 mph) and 80 and
89 km/h (50 and 55 mph).
Bearing Noise
Bad bearings generally produce a rough growl or grating
sound, rather than the whine typical of gear noise.
Bearing noise frequently ªwow±wowsº at bearing rpm,
indicating a bad pinion or rear axle side bearing. This
noise can be confused with rear wheel bearing noise.
Rear Wheel Bearing Noise
Rear wheel bearing noise continues to be heard while
coasting at low speed with transmission in neutral. Noise
may diminish by gentle braking. Jack up the rear wheels,
spin them by hand and listen for noise at the hubs.
Replace any faulty wheel bearings.
Knock At Low Speeds
Low speed knock can be caused by worn universal joints
or a side gear hub counter bore in the cage that is worn
oversize. Inspect and replace universal joints or cage and
side gears as required.
Backlash Clunk
Excessive clunk on acceleration and deceleration can be
caused by a worn rear axle pinion shaft, a worn cage,
excessive clearance between the axle and the side gear
splines, excessive clearance between the side gear hub
and the counterbore in the cage, worn pinion and side
gear teeth, worn thrust washers, or excessive drive pinion
and ring gear backlash. Remove worn parts and replace
as required. Select close±fitting parts when possible.
Adjust pinion and ring gear backlash.