interior JEEP CHEROKEE 1994 Service Repair Manual
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Page 35 of 1784

(6) Inspect the disc brake caliper dust boot for cor-
rect installation, damage/tears and indications of
brake fluid leakage. Inspect the bushings and pins
for corrosion, tears and a binding condition.
(7) Pull the rear wheel cylinder dust boot back to
expose the wheel cylinder housing and inspect for
fluid leaks. Inspect the pistons and cylinder bores for
proper appearance.
(8) Inspect the brake differential warning valve
and housing for indications of leakage, kinked hoses
and loose fittings.
PARK BRAKE
(1) As applicable, engage the park brake lever or
pedal and then release it.
(2) If the park brake is functioning normally, test
it for smooth operation and vehicle-holding capabil-
ity.
(3) Inspect the park brake cables for kinks, fraying
and a binding condition.
(4) With the park brake released, the rear wheels
should rotate without restriction. Adjust the park
brake cable tension at the equalizer (Fig. 10), if nec-
essary.
(5) Repair any park brake malfunctions.
BRAKE OPERATIONAL TEST
(1) Drive the vehicle and test for proper brake ac-
tion.
(2) Note any indication of drum/rotor overheating,
wheel dragging or the vehicle pulling to one side
when the brakes are applied.
(3) Evaluate any performance complaints received
from the owner/operator.
(4) Repair the brake system as necessary (refer to
Group 5ÐBrakes for additional information and ser-
vice procedures).
TIRES
RECOMMENDED MAINTENANCE
The general condition of the tires and the inflation
pressures should be inspected at the same time the
engine oil is changed and the oil filter is replaced.
In addition, the tires/wheels should be rotated pe-
riodically to ensure even tread wear and maximum
tread life. The tires/wheels should be rotated initially
after the first 12 000-km (7,500-miles). Thereafter,
after each 24 000-km (15,000-miles) interval of vehi-
cle operation has elapsed.
INSPECTION
Inspect the tires for excessive wear, damage, etc.
Test the tires for the recommended inflation pres-
sure. Refer to the tire inflation pressure decal located
on the inside of the glove box door, and also to Group
22ÐTires And Wheels.
ROTATION
Refer to Group 22ÐTires And Wheels for the rec-
ommended method of tire/wheel rotation for a Jeept
vehicle.
BODY COMPONENTS
RECOMMENDED MAINTENANCE
Body components should be lubricated (as required)
after each 48 000-km (30,000-miles) interval of vehi-
cle operation has elapsed.
LUBRICANT SPECIFICATIONS
All applicable exterior and interior body compo-
nents should be:
²inspected for excessive wear,
²cleaned, and
²all pivot/sliding contact areas of the components
should be lubricated with the specified lubricant.
Refer to the Body Lubricant Specifications chart
below. When excessive wear is apparent, replace/re-
pair as necessary.
LUBRICATION
All pivoting and sliding contact areas, including:
²seat tracks,
²door hinges/latches/strikers, and
²liftgate/tailgate/hood hinges (Fig. 11),
should be lubricated periodically to ensure quiet,
easy operation and to protect against wear and cor-
rosion.
(1) As required, lubricate the body components
with the specified lubricants.
(2) When lubricating door weatherstrip seals, ap-
ply the lubricant to a cloth and wipe it on the seal.
(3) Prior to the application of lubricant, the compo-
nent should be wiped clean to remove dust, grit and
debris. After lubrication, any excess lubricant should
be removed.
Fig. 10 Park Brake Equalizer (XJ)ÐTypical
0 - 34 LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCEJ
Page 94 of 1784

(1) Place fuel filter in retaining strap with the
marked ends in the correct position.
(2) Install retaining strap bolt and tighten to 12
Nzm (106 in. lbs.) torque.
(3) Install inlet and outlet hoses and hose clamps.
For procedures, refer to Fuel Tubes/Lines/Hoses and
Clamps. Also refer to Quick-Connect Fittings. These
can be found in the Fuel Delivery System section of
this group.
(4) On YJ models, install fuel filter shield (Fig. 13).
(5) Lower vehicle.
(6) Connect negative battery cable.
(7) Start engine and check for leaks.
FUEL TUBES/LINES/HOSES AND CLAMPS
Also refer to the proceeding section on Quick-Con-
nect Fittings.
WARNING: THE FUEL SYSTEM IS UNDER A CON-
STANT PRESSURE (EVEN WITH THE ENGINE OFF).
BEFORE SERVICING ANY FUEL SYSTEM HOSES,
FITTINGS OR LINES, THE FUEL SYSTEM PRES-
SURE MUST BE RELEASED. REFER TO THE FUEL
PRESSURE RELEASE PROCEDURE IN THIS
GROUP.
Inspect all hose connections such as clamps, cou-
plings and fittings to make sure they are secure and
leaks are not present. The component should be re-
placed immediately if there is any evidence of degra-
dation that could result in failure.
Never attempt to repair a plastic fuel line/tube. Re-
place as necessary.
Avoid contact of any fuel tubes/hoses with other ve-
hicle components that could cause abrasions or scuff-
ing. Be sure that the plastic fuel lines/tubes are
properly routed to prevent pinching and to avoid heat
sources.
The lines/tubes/hoses used on fuel injected vehicles
are of a special construction. This is due to the
higher fuel pressures and the possibility of contami-
nated fuel in this system. If it is necessary to replace
these lines/tubes/hoses, only those marked EFM/EFI
may be used.
The hose clamps used to secure rubber hoses on
fuel injected vehicles are of a special rolled edge con-
struction. This construction is used to prevent the
edge of the clamp from cutting into the hose. Only
these rolled edge type clamps may be used in this
system. All other types of clamps may cut into the
hoses and cause high pressure fuel leaks.
Use new original equipment type hose clamps.
Tighten hose clamps to 1 Nzm (15 in. lbs.) torque.
QUICK-CONNECT FITTINGS
Also refer to the previous Fuel Tubes/Lines/Hoses
and Clamps section.Different types of quick-connect fittings are used to
attach various fuel system components. These are: a
single-tab type, a two-tab type or a plastic retainer
ring type.
SINGLE-TAB TYPE
This type of fitting is equipped with a single pull
tab (Fig. 15). The tab is removable. After the tab is
removed, the quick-connect fitting can be separated
from the fuel system component.
CAUTION: The interior components (O-rings, spac-
ers) of this type of quick-connect fitting are not ser-
viced separately, but new pull tabs are available. Do
not attempt to repair damaged fittings or fuel lines/
tubes. If repair is necessary, replace the complete
fuel tube/quick-connect fitting assembly.
WARNING: THE FUEL SYSTEM IS UNDER A CON-
STANT PRESSURE (EVEN WITH THE ENGINE OFF).
BEFORE SERVICING ANY FUEL SYSTEM HOSES,
FITTINGS OR LINES, THE FUEL SYSTEM PRES-
SURE MUST BE RELEASED. REFER TO THE FUEL
PRESSURE RELEASE PROCEDURE IN THIS
GROUP.
DISCONNECTION/CONNECTION
(1) Disconnect negative battery cable from battery.
(2) Perform the fuel pressure release procedure.
Refer to the Fuel Pressure Release Procedure in this
section.
(3) Clean the fitting of any foreign material before
disassembly.
(4) Press the release tab on the side of fitting to re-
lease pull tab (Fig. 15).
Fig. 15 Single-Tab Type Fitting
JFUEL SYSTEM 14 - 9
Page 95 of 1784

CAUTION: If this release tab is not pressed prior to
releasing the pull tab, the pull tab will be damaged.
(5) While pressing the release tab on the side of
the fitting, use a screwdriver to pry up the pull tab
(Fig. 16).
(6) Raise the pull tab until it separates from the
quick-connect fitting (Fig. 17). Discard the old pull
tab.
(7) Disconnect the quick-connect fitting from the
fuel system component being serviced.
(8) Inspect the quick-connect fitting body and fuel
system component for damage. Replace as necessary.
(9) Prior to connecting the quick-connect fitting to
component being serviced, check condition of fitting
and component. Clean the parts with a lint-free
cloth. Lubricate them with clean engine oil.
(10) Insert the quick-connect fitting into the fuel
tube or fuel system component until the built-on stop
on the fuel tube or component rests against back of
fitting.
(11) Obtain a new pull tab. Push the new tab down
until it locks into place in the quick-connect fitting.(12) Verify a locked condition by firmly pulling on
fuel tube and fitting (15-30 lbs.).
(13) Connect negative cable to battery.
(14) Start engine and check for leaks.
TWO-TAB TYPE FITTING
This type of fitting is equipped with tabs located on
both sides of the fitting (Fig. 18). These tabs are sup-
plied for disconnecting the quick-connect fitting from
component being serviced.
CAUTION: The interior components (O-rings, spac-
ers) of this type of quick-connect fitting are not ser-
viced separately, but new plastic retainers are
available. Do not attempt to repair damaged fittings
or fuel lines/tubes. If repair is necessary, replace
the complete fuel tube/quick-connect fitting assem-
bly.
WARNING: THE FUEL SYSTEM IS UNDER A CON-
STANT PRESSURE (EVEN WITH THE ENGINE OFF).
BEFORE SERVICING ANY FUEL SYSTEM HOSES,
FITTINGS OR LINES, THE FUEL SYSTEM PRES-
SURE MUST BE RELEASED. REFER TO THE FUEL
PRESSURE RELEASE PROCEDURE IN THIS
GROUP.
DISCONNECTION/CONNECTION
(1) Disconnect negative battery cable from the bat-
tery.
(2) Perform the fuel pressure release procedure.
Refer to the Fuel Pressure Release Procedure in this
section.
(3) Clean the fitting of any foreign material before
disassembly.
(4) To disconnect the quick-connect fitting, squeeze
the plastic retainer tabs against the sides of the
quick-connect fitting with your fingers. Tool use is
not required for removal and may damage plastic re-
Fig. 16 Disconnecting Single-Tab Type Fitting
Fig. 17 Removing Pull Tab
Fig. 18 Typical Two-Tab Type Quick-Connect Fitting
14 - 10 FUEL SYSTEMJ
Page 96 of 1784

tainer. Pull the fitting from the fuel system compo-
nent being serviced. The plastic retainer will remain
on the component being serviced after fitting is dis-
connected. The O-rings and spacer will remain in the
quick-connect fitting connector body.
(5) Inspect the quick-connect fitting body and com-
ponent for damage. Replace as necessary.
CAUTION: When the quick-connect fitting was dis-
connected, the plastic retainer will remain on the
component being serviced. If this retainer must be
removed, very carefully release the retainer from
the component with two small screwdrivers. After
removal, inspect the retainer for cracks or any dam-
age.
(6) Prior to connecting the quick-connect fitting to
component being serviced, check condition of fitting
and component. Clean the parts with a lint-free
cloth. Lubricate them with clean engine oil.
(7) Insert the quick-connect fitting to the compo-
nent being serviced and into the plastic retainer.
When a connection is made, a click will be heard.
(8) Verify a locked condition by firmly pulling on
fuel tube and fitting (15-30 lbs.).
(9) Connect negative cable to battery.
(10) Start engine and check for leaks.
PLASTIC RETAINER RING TYPE FITTING
This type of fitting can be identified by the use of a
full-round plastic retainer ring (Fig. 19) usually
black in color.
CAUTION: The interior components (O-rings, spac-
ers, retainers) of this type of quick-connect fitting
are not serviced separately. Do not attempt to re-
pair damaged fittings or fuel lines/tubes. If repair is
necessary, replace the complete fuel tube/quick-
connect fitting assembly.
WARNING: THE FUEL SYSTEM IS UNDER A CON-
STANT PRESSURE (EVEN WITH THE ENGINE OFF).
BEFORE SERVICING ANY FUEL SYSTEM HOSES,
FITTINGS OR LINES, THE FUEL SYSTEM PRES-
SURE MUST BE RELEASED. REFER TO THE FUEL
PRESSURE RELEASE PROCEDURE IN THIS
GROUP.
DISCONNECTION/CONNECTION
(1) Disconnect negative battery cable from the bat-
tery.
(2) Perform the fuel pressure release procedure.Refer to the Fuel Pressure Release Procedure in this
section.
(3) Clean the fitting of any foreign material before
disassembly.
(4) To release the fuel system component from the
quick-connect fitting, firmly push the fitting towards
the component being serviced while firmly pushing
the plastic retainer ring into the fitting (Fig. 19).
With the plastic ring depressed, pull the fitting from
the component.The plastic retainer ring must be
pressed squarely into the fitting body. If this re-
tainer is cocked during removal, it may be dif-
ficult to disconnect fitting. Use an open-end
wrench on the shoulder of the plastic retainer
ring to aid in disconnection.
After disconnection, the plastic retainer ring will
remain with the quick-connect fitting connector body.
(5) Inspect fitting connector body, plastic retainer
ring and fuel system component for damage. Replace
as necessary.
(6) Prior to connecting the quick-connect fitting to
component being serviced, check condition of fitting
and component. Clean the parts with a lint-free
cloth. Lubricate them with clean engine oil.
(7) Insert the quick-connect fitting into the compo-
nent being serviced until a click is felt.
(8) Verify a locked condition by firmly pulling on
fuel tube and fitting (15-30 lbs.).
(9) Connect negative battery cable to battery.
(10) Start engine and check for leaks.
Fig. 19 Plastic Retainer Ring Type Fitting
JFUEL SYSTEM 14 - 11
Page 174 of 1784

(8) Install and tighten caliper mounting bolts to
10-20 Nzm (7-15 ft. lbs.) torque.
CAUTION: If new caliper bolts are being installed,
or if the original reason for repair was a drag/pull
condition, check caliper bolt length before proceed-
ing. If the bolts have a shank length greater than
67.6 mm (2.66 in.), they will contact the inboard
brakeshoe causing a partial apply condition. Refer
to Figure 14 for required caliper bolt length.
(9) Install wheels. Tighten lug nuts to 102 Nzm (75
ft. lbs.) torque.
(10) Pump brake pedal until caliper pistons and
brakeshoes are seated.
(11) Top off brake fluid level if necessary. Use Mo-
par brake fluid or equivalent meeting SAE J1703
and DOT 3 standards only.
CALIPER REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle and remove front wheels.
(2) Remove caliper mounting bolts (Fig. 4).(3) Rotate caliper rearward by hand or with pry
tool (Fig. 5). Then rotate caliper and brakeshoes off
mounting ledges.
(4) Remove caliper hose fitting bolt and disconnect
front brake hose at caliper. Discard fitting bolt wash-
ers. They are not reusable and should be replaced.
(5) Remove caliper from vehicle.
CALIPER DISASSEMBLY
(1) Remove brakeshoes from caliper.
(2) Pad interior of caliper with minimum, 2.54 cm
(1 in.) thickness of shop towels or rags (Fig. 15). Tow-
els are needed to protect caliper piston during re-
moval.
(3) Remove caliper piston withshort burstsof low
pressure compressed air. Direct air through fluid in-
let port and ease piston out of bore (Fig. 16).
Fig. 11 Installing Inboard Brakeshoe
Fig. 12 Installing Outboard Brakeshoe
Fig. 13 Caliper Installation
Fig. 14 Caliper Mounting Bolt Dimensions
JBRAKES 5 - 27
Page 175 of 1784

CAUTION: Do not blow the piston out of the bore
with sustained air pressure. This could result in a
cracked piston. Use only enough air pressure to
ease the piston out. In addition, NEVER attempt to
catch the piston as it leaves the bore. This will re-
sult in personal injury.
(4) Remove caliper piston dust boot (Fig. 17). Col-
lapse boot with suitable tool and remove and discard
boot.
(5) Remove and discard caliper piston seal with
wood or plastic tool (Fig. 18). Do not use metal tools
as they will scratch piston bore.
(6) Remove caliper mounting bolt bushings and
boots (Fig. 19).
CALIPER CLEANING AND INSPECTION
Clean the caliper and piston with Mopar brake
cleaner, clean brake fluid, or denatured alcohol only.
Do not use gasoline, kerosene, thinner, or similar sol-
vents. These products leave a residue that will dam-
age pistons and seals.
Wipe the caliper and piston dry with lint free tow-
els or use low pressure compressed air.
Inspect the piston and piston bore. Replace the cal-
iper if the bore is corroded, rusted, pitted, or scored.
Fig. 15 Padding Caliper Interior To Protect Piston
During Removal
Fig. 16 Removing Caliper Piston
Fig. 17 Removing Caliper Piston Dust Boot
Fig. 18 Removing Caliper Piston Seal
Fig. 19 Caliper Slide Bushing And Boot
5 - 28 BRAKESJ
Page 176 of 1784

Do not hone the caliper piston bore. Replace the cal-
iper if the bore exhibits any of the aforementioned
conditions.
Inspect the caliper piston. The piston is made from
a phenolic resin (plastic material) and should be
smooth and clean. Replace the piston if cracked,
chipped, or scored. Do not attempt to restore a
scored, or corroded piston surface by sanding or pol-
ishing. The piston must be replaced if damaged.
CAUTION: Never interchange phenolic resin and
steel caliper pistons. The seals, seal grooves, cali-
per bores and piston tolerances are different for
resin and steel pistons. Do not intermix these com-
ponents.
Inspect the caliper mounting bolt bushings and
boots. Replace the boots if cut or torn. Clean and lu-
bricate the bushings with GE 661 or Dow 111 sili-
cone grease if necessary.
Inspect condition of the caliper mounting bolts. Re-
place the bolts if corroded, rusted, or worn. Do not re-
use the bolts if unsure of their condition.
Length of the caliper mounting bolts is also ex-
tremely important.
Use the replacement bolts specified in the parts
catalog at all times. Do not use substitute bolts.
Bolts that are too long will partially apply the in-
board brakeshoe causing drag and pull. Refer to the
caliper and brakeshoe installation procedures for ser-
vice details and bolt dimensions.
CALIPER ASSEMBLY
(1) Coat caliper piston bore, new piston seal and
piston with clean, fresh brake fluid.
(2) Lubricate caliper bushings and interior of bush-
ing boots with GE 661, Dow 111, or Permatex Dielec-
tric silicone grease.
(3) Install bushing boots in caliper first. Then in-
sert bushing into boot and push bushing into place
(Fig. 20).(4) Install new piston seal in caliper bore. Press
seal into seal groove with finger (Fig. 21).
(5) Install dust boot on caliper piston (Fig. 22).
Slide boot over piston and seat boot in piston groove.
(6) Start caliper piston in bore by hand (Fig. 23).
Use a turn and push motion to work piston into seal.
Once piston is started in seal, press pistononly part
wayinto bore.
(7) Apply light coat of GE 661, Dow 111, or Per-
matex silicone grease to indicated areas (circumfer-
Fig. 20 Installing Bushings And Boots
Fig. 21 Installing Piston Seal
Fig. 22 Installing Dust Boot On Piston
Fig. 23 Installing Caliper Piston
JBRAKES 5 - 29
Page 218 of 1784

CLUTCH DIAGNOSIS
INDEX
page page
Clutch Problem Causes..................... 3
General Diagnosis Information................ 3Inspection and Diagnosis Charts.............. 4
GENERAL DIAGNOSIS INFORMATION
Unless the cause of a clutch problem is obvious, ac-
curate problem diagnosis will usually require a road
test to confirm a problem. Component inspection will
then be required to determine the actual problem
cause.
During a road test, drive the vehicle at normal
speeds. Shift the transmission through all gear
ranges and observe clutch action. If chatter, grab,
slip, or improper release is experienced, remove and
inspect the clutch components. However, if the prob-
lem is noise or hard shifting, further diagnosis may
be needed as the transmission or another driveline
component may be at fault. Careful observation dur-
ing the test will help narrow the problem area.
CLUTCH PROBLEM CAUSES
CONTAMINATION
Fluid contamination is a frequent cause of clutch
malfunctions. Oil, water, or clutch fluid on the clutch
contact surfaces will cause faulty operation. The
usual result is chatter, slip and grab.
During inspection, note if any components are con-
taminated with oil, hydraulic fluid, or water/road
splash.
Oil contamination indicates a leak at either the
rear main seal or transmission input shaft. Oil leak-
age produces a residue of oil on the housing interior
and on the clutch cover and flywheel. Heat buildup
caused by slippage between the cover, disc and fly-
wheel, can sometimes bake the oil residue onto the
components. The glaze-like residue ranges in color
from amber to black.
Road splash contamination means dirt/water is en-
tering the clutch housing due to loose bolts, housing
cracks, or through hydraulic line openings. Driving
through deep water puddles can force water/road
splash into the housing through such openings.
Clutch fluid leaks are from loose or damaged slave
cylinder fluid lines and connecting fittings. However,
clutch fluid leaks will usually be noted and corrected
before severe contamination occurs.
CLUTCH MISALIGNMENT
Clutch components must be in proper alignment
with the crankshaft and transmission input shaft.Misalignment caused by excessive runout or warpage
of any clutch component will cause grab, chatter and
improper clutch release.
Flywheel Runout
Check flywheel runout whenever misalignment is
suspected. Flywheel runout should not exceed 0.08
mm (0.003 in.). Measure runout at the outer edge of
the flywheel face with a dial indicator. Mount the in-
dicator on a stud installed in place of one of the fly-
wheel bolts.
Common causes of runout are:
²heat warpage
²improper machining
²incorrect bolt tightening
²improper seating on crankshaft flange shoulder
²foreign material on crankshaft flange
Flywheel machining is not recommended. The fly-
wheel clutch surface is machined to a unique contour
and machining will negate this feature. However,
minor flywheel scoring can be cleaned up by hand
with 180 grit emery, or with surface grinding equip-
ment. Remove only enough material to reduce scor-
ing (approximately 0.001 - 0.003 in.). Heavy stock
removal isnot recommended.Replace the flywheel
if scoring is severe and deeper than 0.076 mm (0.003
in.). Excessive stock removal can result in flywheel
cracking or warpage after installation; it can also
weaken the flywheel and interfere with proper clutch
release.
Clean the crankshaft flange before mounting the
flywheel. Dirt and grease on the flange surface may
cock the flywheel causing excessive runout. Use new
bolts when remounting a flywheel and secure the
bolts with Mopar Lock And Seal. Tighten flywheel
bolts to specified torque only. Overtightening can dis-
tort the flywheel hub causing runout.
Clutch Cover And Disc Runout
Check the clutch disc before installation. Axial
(face) runout of anewdisc should not exceed 0.50
mm (0.020 in.). Measure runout about 6 mm (1/4 in.)
from the outer edge of the disc facing. Obtain an-
other disc if runout is excessive.
Check condition of the clutch before installation. A
warped cover or diaphragm spring will cause grab
and incomplete release or engagement. Be careful
JCLUTCH DIAGNOSIS 6 - 3
Page 229 of 1784

(4) Attach clutch master cylinder push rod to pin
on clutch pedal. Secure rod with new clip if neces-
sary.
(5) Install and tighten clutch master cylinder at-
taching nuts to 23-34 Nzm (200-300 in. lbs.) torque.
(6) Raise vehicle.
(7) Insert slave cylinder push rod through clutch
housing opening and into release lever. Be sure cap
on end of rod is securely engaged in lever. Check this
before installing cylinder attaching nuts.
(8) Install and tighten slave cylinder attaching
nuts to 23-34 Nzm (200-300 in. lbs.) torque.
(9) Secure clutch fluid line in body clips and lower
vehicle.
CLUTCH FLUID LEVEL
The clutch fluid reservoir, master cylinder, slave
cylinder and fluid lines are prefilled with fluid at the
factory during assembly operations.
The hydraulic system should not require additional
fluid under normal circumstances. In fact,the reser-
voir fluid level will actually increase as normal
clutch wear occurs. For this reason, it is impor-
tant to avoid overfilling, or removing fluid from
the reservoir.
If inspection or diagnosis indicates additional fluid
may be needed, use Mopar brake fluid, or an equiv-
alent meeting standards SAE J1703 and DOT 3. Do
not use any other type of fluid.
Clutch fluid level is checked at the master cylinder
reservoir (Fig. 12). An indicator ring is provided ei-
ther on the side, or interior rim of the reservoir (Fig.
13).
Be sure to wipe the reservoir and cover clean be-
fore removing the cover. This will avoid having dirt
or foreign material fall into the reservoir during a
fluid level check.
Fig. 10 Clutch Master Cylinder Location (Right Hand
Drive Models)
Fig. 11 Clutch Master Cylinder Mounting (Typical)
Fig. 12 Clutch Master Cylinder Reservoir And Cap
Fig. 13 Reservoir Fluid Level Indicator Ring
6 - 14 CLUTCH SERVICEJ
Page 251 of 1784

REVERSE FLUSHING ENGINE
Drain the cooling system. Remove the thermostat
housing and thermostat. Install the thermostat hous-
ing. Disconnect the radiator upper hose from the ra-
diator and attach the flushing gun to the hose.
Disconnect the radiator lower hose from the water
pump. Attach a lead away hose to the water pump
inlet fitting.
CAUTION: On XJ models, be sure that the heater
control valve is closed (heat off). This is done to
prevent coolant flow with scale and other deposits
from entering the heater core.
Connect the water supply hose and air supply hose
to the flushing gun. Allow the engine to fill with wa-
ter. When the engine is filled, apply air in short
blasts, allowing the system to fill between air blasts.
Continue until clean water flows through the lead
away hose. For more information, refer to operating
instructions supplied with flushing equipment.
Remove the lead away hose, flushing gun, water
supply hose and air supply hose. Remove the thermo-
stat housing and install thermostat. Install the ther-
mostat housing with a replacement gasket. Refer to
Thermostat Replacement. Connect the radiator hoses.
Refill the cooling system with the correct antifreeze/
water mixture.
CHEMICAL CLEANING
In some instances, use a radiator cleaner (Mopar
Radiator Kleen or equivalent) before flushing. This
will soften scale and other deposits and aid the flush-
ing operation.
CAUTION: Be sure instructions on the container are
followed.
TESTING COOLING SYSTEM FOR LEAKS
ULTRAVIOLET LIGHT METHOD
All JeepŸ models have a leak detection additive
added to the cooling system before they leave the fac-
tory. The additive is highly visible under ultraviolet
light (black light). If the factory original coolant has
been drained, pour one ounce of additive into the
cooling system. The additive is available through the
part's department. Place the heater control unit in
HEAT position. Start and operate the engine until
the radiator upper hose is warm to the touch. Aim
the black light (tool 7138 or an equivalent), at the
components to be checked. If leaks are present, the
black light will cause the additive to glow a bright
green color.
The black light can be used along with a pressure
tester to determine if any external leaks exist (Fig.
19).
PRESSURE TESTER METHOD
The engine should be at the normal operating tem-
perature. Recheck the system cold if the cause of
coolant loss is not located during warm engine exam-
ination.
WARNING: HOT, PRESSURIZED COOLANT CAN
CAUSE INJURY BY SCALDING.
Carefully remove the radiator pressure cap from
the filler neck and check the coolant level. Push
down on the cap to disengage it from the stop tabs.
Wipe the inner part of the filler neck and examine
the lower inside sealing seat for nicks, cracks, paint,
dirt and solder residue. Inspect the reserve/overflow
tank tube for internal obstructions. Insert a wire
through the tube to be sure it is not obstructed.
Inspect the cams on the outside part of the filler
neck. If the cams are bent, seating of pressure cap
valve and tester seal will be affected. Bent cams can
be reformed if done carefully. Attach pressure tester
7700 or an equivalent to the radiator filler neck (Fig.
20).
Operate the tester pump to apply 124 kPa (18 psi)
pressure to the system. If the hoses enlarge exces-
sively or bulge while testing, replace as necessary.
Observe the gauge pointer and determine the condi-
tion of the cooling system according to the following
criteria:
²Holds Steady: If the pointer remains steady for two
minutes, there are no serious coolant leaks in the
system. However, there could be an internal leak
that does not appear with normal system test pres-
sure. Inspect for interior leakage or do the Internal
Fig. 19 Leak Detection Using Black LightÐTypical
7 - 18 COOLING SYSTEMJ