length JEEP CHEROKEE 1995 Service User Guide
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Page 187 of 2198

CALIPER CLEANING AND INSPECTION
Clean the caliper and piston with Mopar brake
cleaner, clean brake fluid, or denatured alcohol only.
Do not use gasoline, kerosene, thinner, or similar sol-
vents. These products leave a residue that will dam-
age pistons and seals.
Wipe the caliper and piston dry with lint free tow-
els or use low pressure compressed air.
Inspect the piston and piston bore. Replace the cal-
iper if the bore is corroded, rusted, pitted, or scored.
Do not hone the caliper piston bore. Replace the cal-
iper if the bore exhibits any of the aforementioned
conditions.
Inspect the caliper piston. The piston is made from
a phenolic resin and should be smooth and clean. Re-
place the piston if cracked, chipped, or scored. Do not
attempt to restore a scored, or corroded piston sur-
face by sanding or polishing. The piston must be re-
placed if damaged.
CAUTION: Never interchange phenolic resin and
steel caliper pistons. The seals, seal grooves, cali-
per bores and piston tolerances are different for
resin and steel pistons. Do not intermix these com-
ponents.
Inspect the caliper mounting bolt bushings and
boots. Replace the boots if cut or torn. Clean and lu-
bricate the bushings with GE 661 or Dow 111 silicone
grease if necessary.
Inspect condition of the caliper mounting bolts. Re-
place the bolts if corroded, rusted, or worn. Do not
reuse the bolts if unsure of their condition.
Length of the caliper mounting bolts is also ex-
tremely important.
Use the replacement bolts specified in the parts
catalog at all times. Do not use substitute bolts. Bolts
that are too long will partially apply the inboard
brakeshoe causing drag and pull. Refer to the caliper
and brakeshoe installation procedures for service de-
tails and bolt dimensions.
CALIPER ASSEMBLY
(1) Coat caliper piston bore, new piston seal and
piston with clean, fresh brake fluid.
(2) Lubricate caliper bushings and interior of bush-
ing boots with GE 661, Dow 111, or Permatex Dielec-
tric silicone grease.
(3) Install bushing boots in caliper first. Then in-
sert bushing into boot and push bushing into place
(Fig. 20).
(4) Install new piston seal in caliper bore. Press
seal into seal groove with finger (Fig. 21).
(5) Install dust boot on caliper piston (Fig. 22).
Slide boot over piston and seat boot in piston groove.(6) Start caliper piston in bore by hand (Fig. 23).
Use a turn and push motion to work piston into seal.
Once piston is started in seal, press pistononly part
wayinto bore.
(7) Press caliper piston to bottom of bore.
(8) Seat dust boot in caliper with Installer Tool
C-4842 and Tool Handle C- 4171 (Fig. 24).
(9) Install caliper bleed screw if removed.
Fig. 20 Installing Bushings And Boots
Fig. 21 Installing Piston Seal
Fig. 22 Installing Dust Boot On Piston
5 - 50 DISC BRAKESJ
Page 188 of 2198

CALIPER INSTALLATION
(1) Install brakeshoes in caliper (Figs. 11, 12).
(2) Connect brake hose to caliper but do not
tighten fitting bolt completely at this time.Be sure
to use new gaskets on fitting bolt to avoid leaks
(Fig. 25).
(3) Install caliper. Position mounting notches at
lower end of brakeshoes on bottom mounting ledge
(Fig. 13). Then rotate caliper over rotor and seat
notches at upper end of shoes on mounting ledge
(Fig. 13).
(4) Coat caliper mounting bolts with GE 661 or
Dow 111 silicone grease. Then install and tighten
bolts to 10-20 Nzm (7-15 ft. lbs.) torque.CAUTION: If new caliper bolts are being installed,
or if the original reason for repair was a drag/pull
condition, check caliper bolt length before proceed-
ing. If the bolts have a shank length greater than
67.6 mm (2.66 in.), they may contact the inboard
brakeshoe causing a partial apply condition. Refer
to Figure 14 for the required caliper bolt length.
(5) Position front brake hose clear of all chassis
components and tighten caliper fitting bolt to 31 Nzm
(23 ft. lbs.) torque.
CAUTION: Be sure the brake hose is not twisted or
kinked at any point. Also be sure the hose is clear
of all steering and suspension components. Loosen
and reposition the hose if necessary.
(6) Install wheels. Tighten wheel lug nuts to 109-
150 Nzm (80-110 ft. lbs.) torque.
(7) Fill and bleed brake system. Refer to proce-
dures in Service Adjustments section.
ROTOR REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle and remove wheel.
(2) Remove caliper.
(3) Remove retainers securing rotor to hub studs
(Fig. 26).
(4) Remove rotor from hub (Fig. 26).
(5) If rotor shield requires service, remove front
hub and bearing assembly.
ROTOR INSTALLATION
(1) If new rotor is being installed, remove protec-
tive coating from rotor surfaces with Mopar carb
cleaner.It is not necessary to machine a rotor to
remove the coating. Mopar carb cleaner fol-
lowed by a rinse with brake cleaner will re-
move the coating.
(2) Install rotor on hub.
(3) Install caliper.
Fig. 23 Installing Caliper Piston
Fig. 24 Seating Caliper Piston Dust Boot
Fig. 25 Front Brake Hose And Fitting Components
JDISC BRAKES 5 - 51
Page 267 of 2198

(9) After power steering pump has been tightened
into position, recheck belt tension. Adjust if neces-
sary.
BELT SERVICEÐXJ MODELS WITH RIGHT HAND
DRIVE
The automatic belt tensioner is used only on
XJ models equipped with a 4.0L 6-cylinder en-
gine with right hand drive steering system.
REMOVAL
(1) Attach a socket/wrench to the mounting bolt of
the automatic tensioner pulley (Fig. 7).
(2) Rotate the tensioner assembly clockwise (as
viewed from front) until tension has been relieved
from belt.
(3) Remove belt from idler pulley (Fig. 7) first. Re-
move belt from vehicle.
(4) Check condition and alignment of all pulleys.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the drive belt over all pulleysexcept
the idler pulley (Fig. 7).
CAUTION: When installing the serpentine accessory
drive belt, the belt must be routed correctly. If not,
the engine may overheat due to the water pump ro-
tating in the wrong direction. Refer to (Fig. 6) for
correct engine belt routing. The correct belt with
the correct length must be used
(2) Attach a socket/wrench to the pulley mounting
bolt of the automatic tensioner (Fig. 7).
(3) Rotate the socket/wrench clockwise (Fig. 7).
Place the belt over the idler pulley. Let tensioner ro-
tate back into place. Remove wrench. Be sure belt is
properly seated in the grooves of all pulleys.
AUTOMATIC BELT TENSIONERÐXJ MODELS WITH
RIGHT HAND DRIVE
The automatic belt tensioner is used only on
XJ models equipped with a 4.0L 6-cylinder en-
gine with right hand drive steering system.
The drive belt is equipped with a spring loaded au-
tomatic belt tensioner (Fig. 10). This belt tensioner
will be used with all belt configurations such as with
or without air conditioning.
REMOVAL
(1) Attach a socket/wrench to the mounting bolt of
the automatic tensioner pulley (Fig. 10).
(2) Rotate the tensioner assembly clockwise (as
viewed from front) until tension has been relieved
from belt.
(3) Remove belt from idler pulley (Fig. 10) first.
Remove belt from automatic tensioner.
(4) Remove tensioner mounting bolt (Fig. 10) from
tensioner bracket. Remove tensioner from vehicle.
Note alignment pin on the back of tensioner.
WARNING: BECAUSE OF HIGH SPRING PRES-
SURE, DO NOT ATTEMPT TO DISASSEMBLE AUTO-
MATIC TENSIONER. UNIT IS SERVICED AS AN
ASSEMBLY (EXCEPT FOR PULLEY).
(5) Remove tensioner pulley bolt. Remove pulley
from tensioner.
Fig. 8 P.S. Pump Rear Mounting BoltsÐTypical
Fig. 9 P.S. Pump Front Mounting Bolt/LocknutÐ
Typical
7 - 42 ENGINE ACCESSORY DRIVE BELTSJ
Page 268 of 2198

INSTALLATION
(1) Install pulley and pulley bolt to tensioner.
Tighten bolt to 90 Nzm (65 ft. lbs.) torque.
(2) Install tensioner assembly to mounting bracket.
An alignment pin is located on the back of tensioner.
Align this pin to the slotted hole in the mounting
bracket. Install mounting bolt and tighten to 41 Nzm
(30 ft. lbs.) torque. If automatic tensioner bracket-to-
generator mounting bracket bolts were removed,
tighten to 27 Nzm (20 ft. lbs.) torque.
(3) Position the drive belt over all pulleysexcept
the idler pulley (Fig. 10).
CAUTION: When installing the serpentine accessory
drive belt, the belt must be routed correctly. If not,
the engine may overheat due to the water pump ro-
tating in the wrong direction. Refer to (Fig. 6) for
correct engine belt routing. The correct belt with
the correct length must be used
(4) Attach a socket/wrench to the pulley mounting
bolt of the automatic tensioner (Fig. 10).
(5) Rotate the socket/wrench clockwise (Fig. 10).
Place the belt over the idler pulley. Let tensioner ro-
tate back into place. Remove wrench. Be sure belt is
properly seated on all pulleys.
Fig. 10 Automatic Belt TensionerÐ4.0L 6-Cylinder
Engine With RHD
JENGINE ACCESSORY DRIVE BELTS 7 - 43
Page 309 of 2198

(4) With the degaussing tool still energized, slowly
back it away from the screw until the tool is at least
2 feet from the screw head, then unplug the tool.
(5) Place an 8-1/2 X 11 inch piece of paper, oriented
lengthwise from front to rear, on the center line of
the roof at the windshield header (Fig. 4). The pur-
pose of the paper is to protect the roof panel from
scratches and define the area to be demagnetized.
(6) Plug in the degaussing tool, while keeping the
tool at least 2 feet away from the compass unit.
(7) Slowly approach the center line of the roof
panel at the windshield header with the degaussing
tool plugged in.
(8) Contact the roof panel with the tip of the tool.
Be sure template is in place to avoid scratching the
roof panel. Using a slow, back and forth sweeping
motion and allowing 1/2-inch between passes (Fig. 4),
move the tool at least 4 inches either side of the roof
center line and 11 inches back from the windshield
header.
(9) With the degaussing tool still energized, slowly
back it away from the roof panel until the tip is at
least 2 feet from the roof. Then unplug the tool.
(10) Calibrate the compass and adjust variance as
described in this group.OVERHEAD CONSOLE REMOVE/INSTALL
(1) Remove screw forward of the compass unit (Fig.
5).
(2) Flex housing outward while pressing upward to
disengage the housing from the rear bracket (Arrow
1 in Fig. 5).
(3) Slide console rearward until the console de-
taches from the front mounting bracket (Arrow 2 in
Fig. 5).
(4) While pressing up on rear of console (Arrow 1
in Fig. 5), slide console forward, holding front away
from headliner (Arrow 2 in Fig. 5). Move console for-
ward until the rear detaches from headliner and be-
comes free (Fig. 6).
(5) Disconnect wire harnesses from keyless entry
and compass/thermometer modules (Figs. 7 and 8).
(6) Reverse removal procedures to install. Be sure
to flex housing outward near the keyless entry re-
ceiver until the console snaps onto the rear mounting
bracket.
Fig. 4 Roof Demagnetizing Pattern
Fig. 5 Remove/Install Overhead Console
Fig. 6 Remove/Install Overhead Console
8C - 6 OVERHEAD CONSOLEJ
Page 325 of 2198

temperature ranges. This depends upon the thick-
ness and length of the center electrodes porcelain in-
sulator.)
SPARK PLUG OVERHEATING
Overheating is indicated by a white or gray center
electrode insulator that also appears blistered (Fig.
25). The increase in electrode gap will be consider-
ably in excess of 0.001 inch per 1000 miles of opera-
tion. This suggests that a plug with a cooler heat
range rating should be used. Over advanced ignition
timing, detonation and cooling system malfunctions
can also cause spark plug overheating.
SPARK PLUG SECONDARY CABLES
TESTING
Spark plug cables are sometimes referred to as sec-
ondary ignition cables or secondary wires. The cables
transfer electrical current from the distributor to in-
dividual spark plugs at each cylinder. The spark plug
cables are of nonmetallic construction and have a
built in resistance. The cables provide suppression of
radio frequency emissions from the ignition system.Check the high-tension cable connections for good
contact at the ignition coil, distributor cap towers
and spark plugs. Terminals should be fully seated.
The terminals and spark plug covers should be in
good condition. Terminals should fit tightly to the ig-
nition coil, distributor cap and spark plugs. The
spark plug cover (boot) of the cable should fit tight
around the spark plug insulator. Loose cable connec-
tions can cause corrosion and increase resistance, re-
sulting in shorter cable service life.
Clean the high tension cables with a cloth moist-
ened with a nonflammable solvent and wipe dry.
Check for brittle or cracked insulation.
When testing secondary cables for damage with an
oscilloscope, follow the instructions of the equipment
manufacturer.
If an oscilloscope is not available, spark plug cables
may be tested as follows:
CAUTION: Do not leave any one spark plug cable
disconnected for longer than necessary during test-
ing. This may cause possible heat damage to the
catalytic converter. Total test time must not exceed
ten minutes.
With the engine not running, connect one end of a
test probe to a good ground. Start the engine and run
the other end of the test probe along the entire
length of all spark plug cables. If cables are cracked
or punctured, there will be a noticeable spark jump
from the damaged area to the test probe. The cable
running from the ignition coil to the distributor cap
can be checked in the same manner. Cracked, dam-
aged or faulty cables should be replaced with resis-
tance type cable. This can be identified by the words
ELECTRONIC SUPPRESSION printed on the cable
jacket.
Use an ohmmeter to test for open circuits, exces-
sive resistance or loose terminals. Remove the dis-
tributor cap from the distributor.Do not remove
cables from cap.Remove cable from spark plug.
Connect ohmmeter to spark plug terminal end of ca-
ble and to corresponding electrode in distributor cap.
Resistance should be 250 to 1000 Ohms per inch of
cable. If not, remove cable from distributor cap tower
and connect ohmmeter to the terminal ends of cable.
If resistance is not within specifications as found in
the Spark Plug Cable Resistance chart, replace the
cable. Test all spark plug cables in this manner.
Fig. 24 Preignition Damage
Fig. 25 Spark Plug Overheating
SPARK PLUG CABLE RESISTANCE
8D - 14 IGNITION SYSTEMSJ
Page 389 of 2198

ANTENNA
All models use a fixed-length stainless steel rod-
type antenna mast, installed at the right front (fend-
er on XJ, cowl side on YJ) of the vehicle. The
antenna mast is connected to the center wire of the
coaxial antenna cable and is not grounded to any
part of the vehicle.
To eliminate static, the antenna base must have a
good ground. The coaxial antenna cable shield (the
outer wire mesh of the cable) is grounded to the an-
tenna base and the radio chassis.
The factory installed ETRs automatically compen-
sate for radio antenna trim. Therefore, no antenna
trimmer adjustment is required or possible when re-
placing the receiver or the antenna.
RADIO NOISE SUPPRESSION
Radio Frequency Interference (RFI) and Electro-
Magnetic Interference (EMI) noise suppression is ac-
complished primarily through circuitry internal to
the radio receivers. These internal suppression de-
vices are only serviced as a part of the radio receiver.External suppression devices that are serviceable
and should be checked in the case of RFI or EMI
noise complaints include the following:
²radio antenna base ground
²engine-to-body ground strap
²resistor-type spark plugs
²radio suppression-type secondary ignition wiring.
In addition, if the source of RFI or EMI noise is
identified as a component on the vehicle (i.e.:genera-
tor, blower motor, etc.), the ground path for that com-
ponent should be checked. If excessive resistance is
found in that circuit, repair as required before con-
sidering any component replacement.
Fleet vehicles are available with an extra-cost RFI-
suppressed Powertrain Control Module (PCM). This
unit reduces interference generated by the PCM on
some radio frequencies used in two-way radio com-
munications. However, this unit will not resolve com-
plaints of RFI in the commercial AM or FM radio
frequency ranges.
DIAGNOSIS
RADIO
CAUTION: Do not operate the radio with speaker
leads detached since damage to the transistors
may result.
(1) Check fuse 2 in fuseblock module and fuse in
back of radio chassis. If OK, go to next step. If not
OK, replace fuse.
(2) Turn ignition switch to ON position. Check for
battery voltage at fuse 2. If OK, go to next step. If
not OK, repair circuit to ignition switch as required.
(3) Turn ignition switch to OFF position. Discon-
nect battery negative cable. Remove instrument clus-
ter bezel. Remove radio, but do not unplug any
connections. Check for continuity between the radio
chassis and a good ground. There should be continu-
ity. If OK, go to next step. If not OK, repair radio
ground circuit as required.
(4) Connect battery negative cable. Turn ignition
switch to ON position. See Radio Connections chart.
Check for battery voltage at cavity 3 of radio connec-
tor. If OK, go to next step. If not OK, repair circuit to
fuse 2 as required.
(5) Turn ignition switch to OFF position. Check for
battery voltage at cavity 4 of radio connector. If OK,
replace radio. If not OK, repair circuit to IOD fuse in
PDC as required.
SPEAKERS
CAUTION: Do not operate the radio with speaker
leads detached since damage to the transistors
may result.
(1) Turn radio on and adjust balance and fader
controls to check performance of each individual
speaker. Note the speaker locations that are not per-
forming correctly. Go to next step.
(2) Turn radio off. Disconnect battery negative ca-
ble. Remove instrument cluster bezel and remove ra-
dio. See Radio Connections chart. Check both the
speaker feed and return cavities at radio for continu-
ity to a good ground. There should be no continuity.
If OK, go to next step. If not OK, repair wiring cir-
cuit as required.
(3) Check resistance between speaker feed and re-
turn cavities. Meter should read between 3 and 8
ohms (speaker impedance). If OK, see diagnosis for
Radio. If not OK, go to next step.
(4) Unplug speaker wiring connector. Check for
continuity between speaker feed cavity at radio and
at speaker. Repeat check between speaker return
cavity at radio and at speaker. If OK, replace
speaker. If not OK, repair wiring circuit as required.
8F - 2 AUDIO SYSTEMSJ
Page 423 of 2198

The two pivot cranks are joined by a connecting link,
and a drive link connects the motor crank to the drive
link near the left pivot. Pressed-in plastic bushings in
the ends of the links can be replaced if worn or dam-
aged.
WINDSHIELD WIPER MOTOR
The two-speed permanent magnet wiper motor has
an integral transmission and park switch. The motor
is mounted to the engine side of the cowl panel with
a reinforcement/stud plate and a rubber-isolated
mounting bracket. The wiper motor output shaft
passes through the cowl panel into the cowl plenum
area, where a crank arm attached to the output shaft
drives the wiper drive link.
Wiper speed is controlled by current flow to the ap-
propriate set of brushes. The wiper motor completes
its wipe cycle when the switch is turned OFF, and
parks the blades in the lowest portion of the wipe
pattern. The wiper motor assembly can not be re-
paired. If faulty, the entire motor assembly must be
replaced. The crank arm, mounting bracket, and re-
inforcement/stud plate are available for service.
LIFTGATE WIPER MOTOR
The liftgate wiper motor contains integral elec-
tronic controls and a transmission to provide three
operating modes:
²intermittent wipe with a fixed 5 to 8 second delay
between wipes
²constant wipe that operates when the liftgate
washer is operated
²a park mode that runs the motor until the wiper
blade reaches the park position after the liftgate
wiper switch or ignition switch is turned OFF.
The liftgate wiper motor can not be repaired. If
faulty, the entire assembly must be replaced.
WINDSHIELD WIPER/WASHER SWITCH
Controls for the windshield wiper and washer sys-
tems are contained in the multi-function switch con-
trol lever. The multi-function switch is mounted on
the left side of the steering column between the
steering wheel and the instrument panel. This switch
also controls many other functions. The multi-func-
tion switch can not be repaired. If any function of the
switch is faulty, the entire switch must be replaced.
LIFTGATE WIPER/WASHER SWITCH
The single two-function switch on the instrument
panel right of the steering column controls the lift-
gate wiper and washer functions. The rocker-type
switch features a detent in the WIPE position, but
only momentary contact in the WASH position. Both
the liftgate wiper and liftgate washer motors will op-
erate continuously for as long as the switch is held in
the WASH position. The switch can not be repaired;
if faulty, it must be replaced.
INTERMITTENT WIPE MODULE
In addition to low and high speed, the optional inter-
mittent wipe system has a delay mode. The delay mode
has a range of 2 to 15 seconds. The length of the delay
is selected with a variable resistor in the wiper (multi-
function) switch and is accomplished by electronic cir-
cuitry within the intermittent wipe module. If the
washer knob is depressed while the wiper (multi-func-
tion) switch is in the OFF position, the intermittent
wipe module will operate the wiper motor for approxi-
mately 2 wipes and automatically turn the motor off.
The intermittent wipe module is mounted to the
lower instrument panel, behind the knee blocker and
near the steering column with a hook and loop fas-
tener patch. The module can not be repaired.
WINDSHIELD WASHER NOZZLES
The two fluidic washer nozzles are riveted into
openings in the cowl grille panel below the wind-
shield and are not adjustable. Washer fluid is fed to
the nozzles through hoses clipped to the underside of
the cowl grille panel. The nozzles can not be repaired
and, if faulty, should be replaced.
LIFTGATE WASHER NOZZLE
The single liftgate washer nozzle snaps into place
on the liftgate wiper arm. Washer fluid is fed to the
nozzle from the washer reservoir in the engine com-
partment. A liftgate washer hose system is routed
through the body of the vehicle with the body wiring
harness from the reservoir to the liftgate. The fluid
passes through a nipple on the liftgate wiper motor
output shaft bezel to a hose clipped to the underside
of the wiper arm. The nozzle can not be repaired and,
if faulty, should be replaced.
WASHER RESERVOIR
The washer solvent reservoir is mounted to the left
front inner fender shield near the cowl panel. The
same reservoir is used for both the standard front
and optional liftgate washer systems. It also has a
provision for a low washer fluid level sensor. Refer to
Group 8E - Instrument Panel and Gauges for diagno-
sis and service of the sensor. The reservoir and filler
cap are available for service.
WASHER PUMPS
The washer pump and motor are press-fit into a
rubber grommet near the bottom of the washer res-
ervoir. Vehicles with the optional liftgate wiper/
washer system have two pumps installed in the
single reservoir. A permanently lubricated and sealed
motor is coupled to a rotor-type pump. Washer fluid
is gravity fed from the reservoir to the pump. The
pump then pressurizes the fluid and forces it through
the plumbing to the nozzles when the motor is ener-
gized. The pump and motor can not be repaired. If
faulty, the entire assembly must be replaced.
8K - 2 WIPER AND WASHER SYSTEMS - XJJ
Page 432 of 2198

The liftgate wiper motor can not be repaired. If
faulty, the entire assembly must be replaced.
WINDSHIELD WIPER/WASHER SWITCH
Controls for the windshield wiper and washer sys-
tems are contained in the turn signal switch lever.
The turn signal switch lever is mounted on the left
side of the steering column between the steering
wheel and the instrument panel. The wiper/washer
switch can not be repaired. If any function of the
switch is faulty, the entire switch must be replaced.
LIFTGATE WIPER/WASHER SWITCH
The single two-function switch on the instrument
panel right of the steering column controls the lift-
gate wiper and washer functions. The rocker-type
switch features a detent in the WIPE position, but
only momentary contact in the WASH position. Both
the liftgate wiper and liftgate washer motors will op-
erate continuously for as long as the switch is held in
the WASH position. The switch can not be repaired;
if faulty, it must be replaced.
INTERMITTENT WIPE MODULE
In addition to low and high speed, the optional in-
termittent wipe system has a delay mode. The delay
mode has a range of 2 to 15 seconds. The length of
the delay is selected with a variable resistor in the
wiper switch and is accomplished by electronic cir-
cuitry within the intermittent wipe module. If the
washer knob is depressed while the wiper switch is
in the OFF position, the intermittent wipe module
will operate the wiper motor for approximately 2
wipes and automatically turn the motor off.
The intermittent wipe module is mounted to a
bracket behind the lower instrument panel, near the
steering column with a hook and loop fastener patch.
The module can not be repaired.
WINDSHIELD WASHER NOZZLES
The two fluidic washer nozzles are screwed into
openings in the cowl panel below the windshield and
are not adjustable. Washer fluid is fed to the nozzles
through hoses underneath the cowl panel. The noz-
zles can not be repaired and, if faulty, should be re-
placed.
LIFTGATE WASHER NOZZLE
The single liftgate washer nozzle is installed
through the liftgate glass and secured with a nut on
the inside of the glass. Washer fluid is fed to the noz-
zle from the washer reservoir in the engine compart-
ment. A liftgate washer hose system is routed
through the body of the vehicle with the body wiring
harness from the reservoir to the liftgate. The nozzle
can not be repaired and, if faulty, should be replaced.
WASHER RESERVOIR
The washer solvent reservoir is mounted with a
bracket to the left front inner fender shield near the
cowl panel. The same reservoir is used for both the
standard front and optional liftgate washer systems.
The reservoir and filler cap are available for service.
WASHER PUMPS
The washer pump and motor are press-fit into a
rubber grommet near the bottom of the washer res-
ervoir. Vehicles with the optional liftgate wiper/
washer system have two pumps installed in the
single reservoir. A permanently lubricated and sealed
motor is coupled to a rotor-type pump. Washer fluid
is gravity fed from the reservoir to the pump. The
pump then pressurizes the fluid and forces it through
the plumbing to the nozzles when the motor is ener-
gized. The pump and motor can not be repaired. If
faulty, the entire assembly must be replaced.
JWIPER AND WASHER SYSTEMS - YJ 8K - 11
Page 528 of 2198

(5) Reset the terminal locking tang, if it has one.
(6) Insert the removed wire in the same cavity on
the repair connector.
(7) Repeat steps four through six for each wire in
the connector, being sure that all wires are inserted
into the proper cavities. For additional connector pin-
out identification, refer to the wiring diagrams.
(8) Insert the connector locking wedge into the re-
paired connector, if required.
(9) Connect connector to its mating half/component.
(10) Connect battery and test all affected systems.
CONNECTOR AND TERMINAL REPLACEMENT
(1) Disconnect battery.
(2) Disconnect the connector (that is to be repaired)
from its mating half/component.
(3) Cut off the existing wire connector directly be-
hind the insulator. Remove six inches of tape from the
harness.
(4) Stagger cut all wires on the harness side at 1/2
inch intervals (Fig. 17).(5) Remove 1 inch of insulation from each wire on
the harness side.
(6) Stagger cut the matching wires on the repair
connector assembly in the opposite order as was done
on the harness side of the repair. Allow extra length
for soldered connections. Check that the overall
length is the same as the original (Fig. 17).
(7) Remove 1 inch of insulation from each wire.
(8) Place a piece of heat shrink tubing over one side
of the wire. Be sure the tubing will be long enough to
cover and seal the entire repair area.
(9) Spread the strands of the wire apart on each
part of the exposed wires (Fig. 11 example 1).
(10) Push the two ends of wire together until the
strands of wire are close to the insulation (Fig. 11
example 2).
(11) Twist the wires together (Fig. 11 example 3).
(12) Solder the connection together using rosin core
type solder only.Do not use acid core solder.
(13) Center the heat shrink tubing over the joint
and heat using a heat gun. Heat the joint until the
tubing is tightly sealed and sealant comes out of both
ends of the tubing.
Fig. 13 Using Special Tool 6742
Fig. 14 Connector Locking Wedge Tab (Typical)
Fig. 15 Terminal Removal
Fig. 16 Terminal Removal Using Special Tool
JWIRING DIAGRAMSÐGENERAL INFORMATION 8W - 7