brake light JEEP DJ 1953 User Guide

FRONT
AXLE

FIG.
M-l
1—FRONT
STEERING

KNUCKLE

(With
Spicer Universal Joint)
1—
Wheel
Hub Cap

2—
Driving
Flange Cap Screw

3—
Axle
Shaft Drive Flange Gasket 4—
Wheel
Bearing Cup
5—
Front
Wheel Spindle
6—
Brake
Drum
7—
Front
Brake
Cylinder

8—
Brake
Backing Plate

9—
Pivot
Pin Bearing Cap
10—
Pivot
Pin Bearing Cap Nut
11—
Pivot
Pin 12—
Pivot
Bearing Adjusting Shims

13—
Pivot
Pin Cone and Rollers
14—
Steering
Knuckle
Oil Seal 15—
Front
Axle Universal Joint
16—
Thrust
Washer
17—
Brake
Backing Plate Screw
18—
Brake
Shoe and
Lining

19—
Hub
Oil Seal
20—
Wheel
Hub Bolt Nut
21—
Wheel
Bearing Cone and Rollers 22—
Wheel
Bearing Washer

23—
Wheel
Bearing Retaining Nut
24—
Wheel
Adjusting Nut
Lock
Washer
25—
Wheel
Bearing Retaining Nut
26—
Snap
Ring

c.
Install
the wheel bearing spindle and bushing.
d.
Install
brake backing plate.
e.
Grease and assemble wheel bearings and oil

seal.
Install
the wheel hub and drum on the wheel
bearing
spindle.
Install
the wheel bearing washer
and
adjusting nut. Tighten nut with
Wrench
W-144
as shown in
Fig.
M-5, until there is a slight drag on the bearings when the hub is turned.
Then
back off approximately one-sixth of a
turn.
Install
lock

washer
and nut, tightening nut
into
place, and then bend lip of lock washer over on the locknut.
f.
Install
drive
flange
and gasket on hub and attach
with
six cap screws and lock washers.
Install
snap

ring
on outer end of axle shaft.

g.
Install
hub cap.
h.
Install
the wheel, lug nuts, and wheel disc.
i.
If
tube
was installed with axle assembly on
vehicle, check front wheel alignment (Section O),
bleed brakes (Section P), and lubricate front axle

universal
joints (Section B).

M-12.
FRONT
AXLE
INSTALLATION

To
install the front axle, reverse the procedures described in
Par.
M-4 and then perform the follow­
ing operations:

a.
Torque spring clip plate (U-bolt) nuts securing the axle to the front springs, (see Par. M-4).

b.
Adjust and bleed the brakes (see Section P).

c.
Check
axle lubricant level and
fill
as necessary, (see Section B).

d.
Check
front end wheel alignment (see Section
O).
e.
Check
wheel turning angle. Refer to Par. M-14.
M-13.
Steering
Tie Rod and
Bell Crank

These
parts of the front axle are covered in Sec­
tion O.
M-14.
4-Wheel Drive
Turning
Angle

Adjustment
and service information regarding
turning
angles
is covered in Section O.

M-15.
2-WHEEL-DRIVE
FRONT
AXLE
The
front axle is of the reverse
Elliot
type. It is a
steel forging, heat treated for strength and ma­
chined
to
close
limits. The steering knuckles are
mounted on pins which pass through
openings
at each end of the
"I"
beam and are locked securely

in
position with tapered pins and nuts. The knuckles

ride
on
ball
thrust bearings for
ease
of steering. See
Figs.
M-12, M-13.

The
knuckles are connected by a tie rod which is
mounted on
ball
and socket connections. The tie

rod
is adjustable to secure correct
toe-in
of the front wheels. A steering connecting rod
connects

the
left
knuckle arm with the steering gear arm.

Standard
caster and camber of the front
wheels
are
built
into
the front axle. Wheel camber cannot
be changed however, caster can be adjusted by

placing
tapered shims or
wedges
between
the
springs and spring seats. For
complete
information

regarding
the steering
geometry
refer to the
Section O.

M-16.
Removal of Solid
Front
Axle

Note:
The procedure for removing the solid front
axle varies slightly, depending on whether the
springs are slung under or over the axle. These

variations
are
noted
in the following procedure.

a. -
Raise the front end of the vehicle and safely support the frame behind the springs.

b.
Remove the
wheels
by removing the wheel
discs and lug nuts.

c.
Disconnect the steering connecting rod at the
ball
and socket connection on the steering knuckle. 282

N

REAR
AXLE

FIG.
N-l3—NOTCHING
BEARING
RETAINING
RING
c.
Attach puller
tool
W-343 to axle shaft flanged
end using the wheel lug nuts. Position puller
bolts

against dimples of holding ring and alternately tighten until bearing is pressed from shaft, as shown

in
Fig. N-14. 14152

FIG.
N-14—REMOVING
AXLE
SHAFT
BEARING
1—
Bolt

2—
Flange
Adapter

3—
Dimple
in Holding
Ring

4 Holding
Ring

5—
Adapter
Plates N-8.
Rear
Axle
Shaft and Bearing Installation

(Semi-Float-Flanged
Shaft)

a.
Inspect the axle shaft oil seal
journal
for
scratches and polish with fine crocus cloth if
necessary.

b.
Install
retainer plate on the axle shaft

c.
Apply grease to the new oil seal cavity
between

the seal lips and carefully slide seal, on the axle shaft seal seat. The outer face of the seal must be

toward
the axle flange.

d.
Pack
the new bearing
full
of grease
prior
to

installation,
using the proper lubricant.
e.
Install
the unit bearing on the axle shaft making
certain
the cup rib ring is facing the axle flange.
f.
Install
the new bearing retainer ring on the axle shaft.
g. Using puller
tool
W-343, press the new axle shaft bearing and retainer ring on the axle shaft
simultaneously. Tighten puller
bolts
alternately

until
the bearing and retainer ring are properly
seated
against the shaft shoulder.

Refer
to Fig. N-15 and N-16. 14154

FIG.
N-15—INSTALLING
AXLE
SHAFT
BEARING

1—
Holding
Ring

2—
Adapter

3—
Flange
Adapter
4—
Bolt

Note:
Make certain the old bearing cup has
been

removed from the axle housing
before
the axle
shaft and new unit bearing is installed
into
the
axle housing.

h.
Install
axle shaft through the backing plate
using care not to damage the axle housing
tube
inner
oil seal.

i.
Apply a thin coating of lubricant to the
outside

diameter of the bearing cup
prior
to installing in
the bearing bore.

j.
Tap end of flanged shaft lightly with a rawhide
mallet to position the axle shaft bearing in the
housing bearing bore.

k.
Attach the axle shaft retainer and brake back­
ing plate to the axle
tube
flange. Secure with nuts

and
lockwashers. Torque 25 to 35 lb. ft
[3,4-4,8

kg-m.].

I.
Install
a new cup plug
into
the axle shaft
flange

hole.

m.
Install
the brake
drum,
and
rear
wheel as­
sembly. 292

'Jeep*
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

N
scribed
in
Pars.
N-ll through N-l9 for standard
axles, with the exception of the following torque
recommendations. Torque the differential case
bearing
cap screws 70 to 90 lb-ft. [9,7 a 12,4 kg-m.]

and
the cover screws 15 to 25 lb-ft. [2,1 a 3,4
kg-m.].
The ring gear screws on axles with Powr-

Lok
differentials should be torqued as follows:

Model
30 and 44 axles 35 to 55 lb-ft. [4,84 a 7,60 kg-m.].

N-24. TRAC-LOK DIFFERENTIAL
As
optional equipment
Trac-Lok
Model 44 differen­
tial
is available on all Jeep Universal vehicles equipped with semi-float flanged axle shafts.
A
conventional differential transmits all of the
ring
gear torque through the differential gears to the axle shafts. Torque is at all
times
equal on the axle shafts, and if one wheel slips, the other wheel

can
only put out as much torque as the slipping
wheel.

The
Trac-Lok
differential is similar,
except
that

part
of the torque from the ring gear is trans­ mitted through clutch packs
between
the side gears

and
differential case. The multiple disc clutches

with
radial
grooves
on the plates and concentric
grooves
on the discs are
engaged
by a preload

from
Belleville springs, plus separating forces from
the side gears as torque is applied through the
ring
gear.

The
Trac-Lok
construction permits differential action when required for turning corners and trans­mits equal torque to both
wheels
when driving

straight
ahead. However, when one wheel tries to spin due to leaving the ground, a patch of ice,
etc., the clutch packs automatically provide more
torque to the wheel which is not trying to spin.
It
can be
seen
then that the
Trac-Lok
differential
resists wheel spin on bumpy roads and provides
more pulling power when one wheel tries to slip.
In
many cases of differences in traction, pulling
power
will
be automatically provided until both
wheels
start to slip.

In
diagnosis of vehicle operators' complaints, it
is important to recognize two things:

a.
If, with unequal traction, both
wheels
slip, the

Trac-Lok
has
done
all it can possibly do.

b.
In extreme cases of differences in traction, the
wheel with least traction may spin after the
Trac-

Lok
has transferred as much torque as possible
to the non-slipping wheel.
N-25.
Lubrication

The
Trac-Lok
differential requires a special
lubri­

cant
and ordinary multipurpose gear lubricants

MUST
NOT be used. Use only 'Jeep* Differential
Oil,
Part
No. 94557.

Trac-Lok
differential may be cleaned only by disassembling the unit and wiping with clean rags. Do not flush the
Trac-Lok
unit.

Note:
The
Trac-Lok
differential is serviced at the
same time intervals as the standard differential.
N-26.
Trouble
Symptoms

If
noises
or roughness, such as chatter, are present
in
turning corners, the probable cause is incorrect

or
contaminated lubricant.
Before any differential is removed and disassem­
bled for chatter complaints, the correctness of
lubri­

cant
can and should be determined.

A
complete
lubricant
drain,
and
refill
with specified

Limited
Slip Differential lubricant
will
usually
correct
chatter.

The
following procedure is recommended to ensure

complete
removal of old lubricant.

a.
Warm
the lubricant by vehicle road operation,

or
5 minutes of operation in gear at 30 mph with
both
wheels
off the ground on a hoist.

Caution:
Never place the transmission in gear with
the
engine
running when only one wheel of a

Limited
Slip Differential equipped vehicle is raised.
The
vehicle might drive itself off the
jack
and produce damage or
injury.

b.
Drain
lubricant while
warm.
Remove
drain
plug

or
cover to
drain
completely. If cover is removed,

it
may be necessary to replace gasket at this time.

c.
Refill
axle with specified
Limited
Slip Differen­

tial
lubricant.

d.
Operate the vehicle for approximately ten miles
[16,09
km.], making at least ten figure 8 turns
to flush the old lubricant out of the clutch packs.

e.
Repeat
steps
b, c, and d, making sure to replace
the cover gasket if required in
step
c.
f. It is possible that slight chatter, requiring ad­
ditional
vehicle operation, may remain after
step
e. If chatter persists after 100 miles
[160,9
km.]
of vehicle operation, or remains severe after
step

e above, disassembly and repair
will
be necessary.
N-27.
Unit
Inoperative

Proper
performance and capabilities of
Limited
Slip
Differentials are
often
misunderstood. No
precise
methods
of measuring
Limited
Slip Dif­

ferential
performance are generally available in the field. A functioning unit can be determined by
relatively
simple vehicle operational
tests,
as
follows:

a.
Place one wheel on
good
dry pavement, and the
other on ice, mud, grease, etc.

b.
Gradually
increase
engine
rpm to obtain maxi­

mum
traction
prior
to "break-a-way." The ability
to
move
the vehicle
effectively
will
demonstrate

proper
performance.

c.
If extremely slick surfaces, such as ice or grease,

are
used
some
question may exist as to proper per­
formance at
step
b. In
these
extreme cases a prop­

erly
performing
Limited
Slip Differential
will
pro­
vide greater "pulling" power by lightly applying
the parking brake.

N-23.
Trac-Lok
Differential Disassembly
and
Reassembly

It
is recommended that the
complete
axle assembly
be removed from the vehicle, when it
becomes
necessary to remove the
Trac-Lok
from the hous­

ing.
Refer to Par. N-3 and N-12 for removal of axle shafts and differential case from axle housing. 303

m

REAR AXLE
c. Attach the brake line
hose
at tee fitting on top
of housing.

d.
Attach parking brake cables at rear of brake
backing plate. DJ
models
only.
e. Connect the shock absorbers at the axle mount­
ing pads.
f. Connect the propeller shaft at the rear universal
joint.
g. Adjust and bleed brakes. (See Section P).

h.
Install
wheels
and lower vehicle to floor.
i.
Check parking brake as described in Section P.

j.
Fill
the axle housing with the proper lubricant.

For
correct lubricant refer to the
Lubrication
Chart.

N-34.
TROUBLE
SHOOTING

The
following problems can be present with either the conventional differential,
Powr-Lok
or
Trac-
Lok
differential.
N-35. Backlash

Excessive
backlash in the vehicle drive line may be the results of
excessive
backlash in the trans­
mission, propeller shaft spline, universal joint, ring gear and pinion, the axle shaft spline, or the dif­
ferential.
Excessive
backlash in the differential may be meas­

ured
as follows:
a.
Jack
up one rear wheel.
b. Put the transmission in gear.
c. Measure the travel of the jacked-up wheel on
a
10"
[25,40
cm.] radius from the wheel center.

This
total
movement
should not
exceed
IVi" [3,17 cm.] in a new unit. In order to restrict the

backlash
to the axles only, make sure that the
yoke of the propeller shaft
does
not
move
during
the check.

d.
If all causes of backlash mentioned
above
have

been
eliminated with the exception of the differen­

tial
and that still
exceeds
the maximum allowable
movement, overhaul the differential.
N-36.
Rear
Wheel
Noise

Looseness of the rear axle shaft nut on semifloat- ing tapered rear axles may produce a clicking or
creaking
noise.
This
noise
can usually be
stopped

by torquing the wheel hub nut 150 to 175 lb-ft. [20,7 a 24,2 kg-m.]. If the condition has continued
for
some
time, slight wear may have resulted allow­
ing the
noise
to persist. In this case, coat the hub,
key, and keyway on tapered axle shafts with white
lead and torque the nut as specified. If the
noise
persists after this treatment, replace the worn parts.

N-37.
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

SYMPTOMS

Axle
Noisy on Pull and
Coast
Excessive
Back
Lash
Bevel
Gear
and Pinion. . . . . Adjust

End
Play Pinion Shaft Adjust

Worn
Pinion Shaft Bearing Adjust
Pinion
Set too Deep in Bevel
Gear
too Tight..... Adjust

Wrong
Lubricant
Being Used
(Powr-Lok
or
Trac-Lok
Differential) . Replace

Axle
Noisy on
Pull
Pinion
and Bevel
Gear
Improperly Adjusted Adjust

Pinion
Bearings Rough....................... Adjust

Pinion
Bearings Loose Adjust

Axle
Noisy on Coast
Excessive
Back
Lash
in Bevel
Gear
and Pinion. . . Adjust

End
Play in Pinion Shaft. . Adjust

Improper
Tooth Contact.
....................
Adjust
Rough Bearings Replace

Back
Lash
Worn
Differential Pinion
Gear
Washers Adjust
Excessive
Back
Lash
in Bevel
Gear
and Pinion. . . Adjust

Worn
Universal Joints Replace
PROBABLE REMEDY

310

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

O Note:
If the steering-gear-to-frame
bolts
are not

properly
torqued, they
will
eventually
loosen
dur­

ing operation of the vehicle. Loose
bolts
will
result
in
elongated
bolt
holes
making maintenance of bolt torque difficult, and may allow position of the
steering columns to be misaligned. Therefore,
proper
torquing is extremely important.
Do not tighten the steering gear to dampen out
steering trouble. Adjust the steering gear only to
remove lost motion or play within the unit.
0-5. Steering
Gear
Adjustment
The
cam and lever steering gear is illustrated in

Fig.
0-2. It consists of a
spiral
cam, and a cross shaft and lever assembly with two lever studs.
When
the steering wheel is turned, the cam
moves

the studs, causing rotary movement of the cross
shaft, which in
turn
causes angular movement of
the*steering arm.

Two
adjustments of the steering gear are necessary:
up and down play of the steering shaft, and adjust­ment of the lever studs (tapered pins) in the

cam
groove.

Adjustment
of the
ball
thrust bearings to eliminate up and down play of the steering shaft is ac­
complished by removing shims which are installed
between
the steering gear housing and the upper
cover. Before making this adjustment
loosen
the
housing side cover adjusting screw to free the pins
in
the cam groove. Loosen the housing cover to
cut and remove a shim or more as required.
Install
the screws and tighten. Adjustment should be
made to have a slight drag but allow the steering
wheel to
turn
freely with thumb and forefinger
lightly gripping the rim.

Shims
installed for adjustment are .002*, .003", and .010"
[.0508,
.0762
and .254 mm.] in thickness.

Adjustment
of the tapered pins in the cam
groove

is accomplished by adjusting screw. Unlock the

adjusting
screw and
turn
it in until a very slight
drag
is felt through the mid-position when turning
the steering wheel slowly from one extreme position
to the other.

Backlash
of the pins in the
groove
shows up as
end play of lever shaft, also as backlash of steer­ ing arm.

The
cam
groove
is purposely cut shallow in the

straight
ahead driving position for each pin.
This

feature permits a
close
adjustment for normal

straight
ahead driving and provides precision steer­ ing and permits take up of backlash at this point
after the wear occurs without causing a bind else­

where.
Always
adjust within the high range through
the mid-position of pin travel. Do not adjust off
"straight
ahead" position.
Backlash
in turned posi­
tions is not objectionable.
0-6.
Front
Wheel Alignment Adjustments
To
ensure correct alignment, a definite procedure
for inspection of the steering system is recom­ mended. It is
suggested
that the following sequence
be used:

a.
Equalize
tire pressures and level vehicle.
b.
Check
steering gear to steering column align­
ment.

c.
Inspect steering knuckle pivots, spindle, and
wheel bearing
looseness.

d.
Check
wheel runout.

e.
Test wheel balance and bearing adjustment.
f.
Check
for spring sag.
g.
Inspect brakes and shock absorbers.

h.
Check
steering gear assembly adjustment and
steering connecting rod.

i.
Check
caster,

j.
Check
toe-in.
k.
Check
toe-out
on turns.

I.
Check
camber.

m.
Check
tracking of front and
rear
wheels,

n.
Check
frame alignment.

The
factors of alignment, caster, camber, and toe-
in,
are all interrelated and if one adjustment is
made, another adjustment may be affected.
There­

fore, after an alignment job is completed, make a
complete recheck of all the adjustments to be sure
the
settings
are within the limit. Be sure all front
suspension and steering system nuts and
bolts
are

all
properly torqued before taking wheel alignment readings.

Proper
alignment of front wheels must be main­
tained in order to ensure
ease
of steering and satis­factory tire life.

The
most important factors of front wheel align­ment are wheel camber, axle caster and wheel
toe-in.

Wheel
toe-in is the distance the wheels are closer

together
at the front than at the
rear.
Wheel
camber is the amount the wheels incline out­

ward
at the top from a vertical position.
Front
axle caster is the amount in
degrees
that the
steering pivot pins are tilted towards the front or

rear
of the vehicle. Positive caster is inclination of
the top of the pivot pin towards the
rear
of the ve­

hicle.
Zero caster is the vertical position of the
pivot pin. Negative or reverse caster is the in­
clination
of the top of the pin towards the front
of the vehicle.

These
points should be checked at regular inter­
vals,
particularly when the front axle has been
subjected to a heavy impact. When checking wheel alignment, it is important that wheel bearings and

knuckle
bearings be in proper adjustment. Loose bearings
will
affect instrument readings when

checking
the camber, pivot pin inclination and
toe-in.
To
accurately check camber and caster, use a wheel
aligning fixture.
Camber
and caster of the front
wheels are both preset.
Camber
cannot be altered
but caster can be adjusted by installing caster shims
between
the axle pad and the springs. Wheel toe-in
may
be adjusted. To measure wheel toe-in, use a
wheel aligning fixture or follow the procedure given
in Par.
0-8.
0-7.
Front Wheel Toe-in
Toe-in
as illustrated in
Fig.
0-3, is necessary to
off­

set the
effect
of camber as shown in Fig. Q-4. 315

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

The
purpose of caster Fig. O-S, is to provide steer­
ing stability which
will
keep the front wheels in the
straight
ahead position and also assist in straighten­
ing up the wheels when coming out of a
turn.
Caster
of the front wheels is preset. If the angle of

caster,
when accurately measured, is found to be

incorrect,
correct it to the specification given at
the end of this section by either installing new

parts
or installing caster shims
between
the axle

pad
and the springs.

If
the camber and toe-in are correct and it is known
the the axle is not twisted, a satisfactory check

may
be made by testing the vehicle on the road.
Before road testing, make sure all tires are properly

inflated,
being particularly careful that both front
tires are inflated to exactly the same pressure.
If
vehicle turns easily to either side but is
hard
to
straighten out, insufficient caster for easy handling of vehicle is indicated. If correction is necessary, it

can
usually be accomplished by installing shims

between
the springs and axle pads to secure the
desired
result.
0-11-
Front
Wheel
Turning
Angle
When
the front wheels are turned, the inside wheel
on the
turn
travels in a smaller circle than the out­side wheel, therefore, it is necessary for the wheels
to toe out to prevent the tire on the inside wheel

frOm
being scuffed sideways.
This
angle for toe out
on turns is designed to permit both front wheels to

turn
on a common center by having the ends of the
steering
knuckle
arms closer
together
than the king­

pins.

To
avoid possible damage to the universal joints
on the front axles of 4-wheel drive vehicles, it is advisable to check the turning angle.
Wearing
away
of the upset
edge
on the spindle housing bolt which
10607

FIG.
0-6—TURNING
ANGLE
STOP
SCREW
1—Stop
Screw
contacts the
stop
screw
will
increase the turning
angle to the point where the universal joints may
be damaged.

The
Jeep Universal Series vehicles should have a

turning
angle of not more than 27^° both left and

right.
To adjust the
stop
screw, it is necessary to

loosen
the locknut holding the
stop
screw. When
the adjustment has been made, tighten the locknut
on the screw to prevent any movement. Refer to
Fig.
O 6.

The
left steering knuckle arm controls the relation­
ship of the front wheels on a left
turn
and the right
arm
controls the relation on a right
turn.

0-12. Steering
Knuckle
Arm

Should
a steering knuckle arm
become
bent, the

knuckle
housing must be replaced. It is not safe to
straighten the knuckle arm.
0-13.
Front
Wheel
Shimmy
Wheel
shimmy may be caused by various condi­
tions in the wheels, axle or steering system, or a
combination of
these
conditions. Outlined below

will
be found the usual corrections of this fault:

a.
Equalize
tire pressures and see that they are
according
to specifications.

b.
Check
the wheel bearings for
looseness.
Be sure
that the inner wheel bearing race is not too
loose
on the spindle.

c.
Remove both steering knuckles and carefully inspect the upper and lower king pin bearings.

Inspect
the bearing cups for evidence of brinelling,
pitting, or fretting. Any bearings that show the slightest imperfection must be
replaced.
Reassemble

and
lubricate the front axle and steering linkage,
installing
new steering knuckle oil seals if present
seals show any wear.

d.
With
full
weight on the front wheels and one

man
working the steering play with the steering
wheel, a second man should closely observe the steering bell
crank
for any rocking motion and the
double tie rod socket for any rocking motion or

looseness
at both points. Replace the complete bell
crank
assembly if it has even the slightest rocking motion. The same applies to the double tie rod
socket.
e.
Check
wheel run-out.
This
check should include
radial
run-out and wheel
looseness
on the hub.
f- Test wheel balance—check for blowout patches,
uniform
tire tread, vulcanized tires, mud on inside
of wheels, and tires creeping on the
rims.

g.
Try
switching front wheels and tires to the
rear,
criss-crossing
them in this operation.

h.
Check
for front
spring
sag. Also check for broken

spring
leaves, broken center
spring
bolt,
loose
spring

clips
(or tight clips), over-lubrication of spring leaves, spring shackle bracket
loose
on frame, and

loose
rear
spring shackle. Be sure that the shock
absorbers
are operating properly to eliminate bob­bing of the front end.

i.
Check
brakes to make sure that one
does
not

drag.

j.
Check
the steering assembly and steering con­ necting rod.
This
includes the up-and-down-play
of the steering worm shaft, end play of the cross 317

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

P
BRAKES

SUBJECT
PAR

GENERAL.
. P-l
Brake
Maintenance P-5
Master
Cylinder.
P-2

Parking
Brake
P-3
Transmission
Brake
P-4

BRAKE SERVICE
.P-6 Bleeding Brakes P-7

Brake
Adjustments P-14

Brake
Hoses P-8

Brake
Shoe
Initial
Adjustment P-l9

Brake
Shoe Installation P-l8

Brake
Pedal Adjustment P-9

Hand
Brake.
P-10 Inspection P-17
SUBJECT
PAR

Brake
Shoe Removal P-l6

Master
Cylinder Reconditioned. . P-20

Parking
Brake
Adjustment
.P-l 1
Relining
Transmission
Brake
P-13

Relining
Wheel
Brake
P-l5

Transmission
Brake
Adjustment .P-12

Wheel
Brake
Units P-14

Wheel
Cylinder Reconditioning P-21

TROUBLESHOOTING
P-2 2 Squeaky Brakes P-23
Rattles in Brakes P-24

SERVICE
DIAGNOSIS.
P-25

SPECIFICATIONS
P-2 6

P-1. GENERAL
A
double-safety
hydraulic brake system in con­
junction with self-adjusting wheel brake units are
standard
equipment on all current production
'Jeep* vehicles. The
double-safety
brake system
Is
equipped with dual
stop
light switches that op­
erate independently of each other, thus eliminating
possible
stop
light failure. Service information for
self adjusting brakes starts with Par. P-14.
All
four-wheel-drive vehicles are equipped with a transmission brake that operates in the drive line

and
is mounted to the rear of the transfer case. Two-wheel-drive vehicles
(DJ-5,
DJ-6)
are equipped
with a hand-operated parking brake that operates at the rear wheels.

P-2.
Master Cylinder —
Double Safety-Brake System

The
master cylinder (cast integrally with the res­

ervoir)
is the compensating type. Refer to Fig.
P-2 and P-13.
Action by the brake pedal
moves
the master cylin­der piston which exerts pressure on the fluid in
the cylinder and lines. 12914

FIG.
P-l—DOUBLE SAFETY BRAKE SYSTEM —
LATE
MODELS 1— Stop Light Switch and Tee (Froat)
2—
Line
Tee (Front)

3—
Master
Cylinder (Dual System
4—
Brake
Pedal Assembly 5—
Brake
Hose
6—
Line
Tee
(Rear)
7—
Wheel
Cylinder (Left
Rear)

8— Proportioning Valve
(Early
Models)
9— —Stop Light Switch and Tee
(Rear)

10—
Wheel
Cylinder (Left Front)
11—
Front
Brake
Hoses
323

p
BRAKES

13264

FIG- P-2—DOUBLE
SAFETY BRAKE
MASTER
CYLINDER
With
the Double-Safety brake system type master

cylinder,
failure
in one part of the brake system

does
not result in
failure
of the entire hydraulic
brake system. Failure in the
front
brake system
will

leave the rear brake system
still
operative or
failure
in
the rear system
will
leave the
front
brake system

operative.

A
double hydraulic
cylinder
with
two outlets, two
residual
check valves, two
fluid
reservoirs, and

two
hydraulic pistons (a
primary
and secondary)
are operated in tandem by a single hydraulic push
rod.
The
primary
outlet is connected to the
front

brakes
with
the secondary outlet connected to the rear brakes.

With
the master
cylinder
fluid
reservoirs
filled
and the
front
and rear brake system
bled,
there is a
solid
column
of
fluid
on the
forward
side of both the

primary
and the secondary pistons.

Upon
application
of the brakes, through movement

of
the brake pedal,
fluid
is displaced by the pistons

into
the wheel cylinders to activate both
front
and
rear brakes.
Upon
release
of the brakes,
fluid
re­
turns
from
the rear wheel cylinders through the secondary residual check valve to the secondary

portion
of the master
cylinder
bore.
Fluid
also
returns
from
the
front
wheel cylinders through the

primary
residual check valve to the
primary

portion
of the master
cylinder
bore.

P-3.
Parking
Brakes
— DJ-5, DJ-6

a.
The parking brake is operated by a T-handle

lever
mounted to the
left
of the steering
column
and
suspended
from
the instrument panel. When
the brake lever is
pulled
outward, tension is exerted
on
the parking brake cable leading to the brake.
The
amount of brake
grip
depends
on the number

of
notches the lever is
pulled
out. To set the park­
ing
brake,
pull
out on the parking brake
control
T-handle.
To
release
the brake,
turn
the handle

slightly
and push it
forward.

0

FIG.
P-3—PARKING
BRAKE LINKAGE
—
DJ-5,
DJ-6
1—
Cable
and
Conduit
(Front)
7—Retracting
Spring
Link
13—Brake
Lever
Bracket

2—
Clip
8—Nut
14—Clevis
Pin

3—
Grommet
9—Nut
15—Cotter
Pin
4—
Hand
Brake
Handle
Assembly
10—Equalizer
16—Clevis
Pin

5—
Cable
and
Conduit
(Rear)
11—Adjusting
Rod
17—Cotter
Pin
6—
Retracting
Spring
12—Hand
Brake
Lever
324

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

P
lengthening of the brake master cylinder eye bolt.

This
is
done
so the primary cup
will
clear the by­
pass port when the piston is in the off position,
otherwise the compensating action of the master

cylinder
for expansion and contraction of the fluid
in
the system, due to temperature changes,
will

be destroyed and cause the brakes to drag.

Note:
Some older 'Jeep' vehicles may
develop
side

movement
of the clutch and brake pedals resulting
from wear of the pedals, shafts, and bushings. One
way to
compensate
for this wear is to install a pedal

slack
adjuster kit,
Part
No.
921936.
FIG.
P-6—HAND
BRAKE
ADJUSTMENT

P-10.
Hand Brake

On
Model DJ-5 and DJ-6 vehicles the rear brake

shoes
are operated through cables and conduits to
form the hand or parking brake. A brake cable
equalizer and adjusting rod, Fig. P-6, is located directly back of the frame center cross member.

P-11.
Parking Brake Adjustment

•
Model DJ-5, DJ-6.

The
foot
brakes must be satisfactorily adjusted be­
fore attempting adjustment of the hand brake.

To
adjust the hand brake raise both rear
wheels

free of the floor.
Pull
up three
notches
on the hand

brake
lever and tighten the adjustment until the

rear
brakes drag slightly. Release the hand brake
lever and check the rear
wheels
for drag. The

wheels
must turn freely with the lever released.

P-12.
Transmission Brake Adjustment
The
transmission brake is located on the propeller
shaft at the rear of the transfer case, see Fig. P-4.
The
brake is operated by a cable connection from
the brake handle mounted on the instrument panel.

To
adjust the transmission brake, the following

sequence
should be followed:
Make
sure that the brake handle on the instrument
panel is fully released. Give due attention to the
cable and operating linkage to see that
they
do
not bind. If necessary free up the cable and
lubri­
cate it. Rotate the brake drum until one pair of the
three
sets
of
holes
are over the
shoe
adjusting screw

wheels
in the brake. Use the
edge
of the
holes
in
the brake drum as a fulcrum for suitable adjusting

tool
or a screwdriver, rotate each notched adjusting
screw by moving the handle of the
tool
away from
the center of the drive shaft until the
shoes
are
snug in the drum.
Back
off seven
notches
on the
adjusting screw
wheels
to secure proper running clearance
between
the
shoes
and the drum. Refer
to Fig. P-8.

P-13.
Relining Transmission Brake
Note:
The condition of the brake lining on the
transmission brake can be visually checked through
the adjusting
holes
in the brake drum.
FIG.
P-7—REMOVING
TRANSMISSION

BRAKE
DRUM

1— Tool W-172
2—
Adapter

3—
Brake
Drum
a.
To reline the brake
shoes
and make a major ad­
justment, first remove the four universal joint at­ taching nuts and lower the propeller shaft. Remove
the retracting spring clevis pin and the spring clip.
Remove the hug lock nut, the nut and washer from
the transfer case output shaft. Both the universal
joint companion
flange
and the brake drum may be readily removed by using puller Tool No. W-172

which
is illustrated in Fig. P-7. Remove the two

brake
shoe
retracting springs and the
shoes.

b. Clean all parts with a suitable cleaning solution

and
examine them for damage or wear.

Brake
shoes
may be distorted by improper lining
installation and the lining should be ground true
after installation on the
shoes.
For this reason it
is recommended that new or replacement
shoe
and
lining assemblies be installed.
c. To reassemble, first turn both adjusting screw

wheels
away from the center to "all off" position.
Place a light film of grease on the brake actuating

cam
and install the
shoes.
Install the black
shoe
re­

turn
spring next to the cam and the yellow spring next to the notch adjusting wheel screw. Place the
brake
drum and universal joint
flange
in position

and
install the transfer case output shaft washer,
nut and hug lock nut. 327

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL

Q
ice, provide maximum safety over all
types
of

terrain,
and furnish the medium on which the
vehicle can be maneuvered with ease. Although
there are other
elements
of tire service, inflation maintenance is the most important and in many
instances the most neglected. The tire pressure should be maintained for safe operation. An under- inflated tire is dangerous as too much flexing can
cause breakage of the casing. Overinflation in time
may
cause a blowout.

Upon
careful inspection of tires, it may be found
that improper wheel alignment, balance, grabbing
brakes,
poor driving habits, fast cornering or other
conditions are the cause of wear. Such conditions
should be corrected.

a.
UNDERINFLATION

Underinflation
distorts the normal contour of the
tire
body and the tire
bulges
or "bellies out" with

an
extreme flexing action.
This
wears the tread at the
edges
more than the center and generates
excessive internal heat, weakening the cords and
resulting
in bruises, broken cords or ply separation.

Underinflation
also leads to rim bruises as in­ sufficient resistance is provided to prevent the tire

from
being jammed against the rim and crushed
or
cut when the tire strikes a
curb,
rock, or rut.

b.
OVERINFLATION

When
a tire is
overinf
lated,
increased tension caused by excessive pressure prevents proper deflection of
the sidewalls.
This
results in wear in the center of the tread and the tire also
loses
its ability to absorb

road
shocks. Under this increased
strain,
cords in the tread area eventually snap under impact, caus­ing a casing break.

c.
MISALIGNMENT
WEAR
Excessive
wheel camber causes the tires to run at an angle to the road when camber is incorrect

it
will
cause excessive wear on one side of the
tire
tread.

Front
wheels should be straight ahead or toe-in slightly. When there is excessive toe-in or
toe-out,

tires
will
revolve with a side motion and scrape
the tread rubber off.
Front
tires
will
show wear on the outside with too great a toe-in condition
and
on the inside with a
toe-out
condition.

d.
BALANCE
Cupping
and bald spotting of tires is associated

with
wear on a vehicle driven mostly at high-way
speeds
without the recommended tire rotation and

with
unbalance conditions.

Q-12.
Tire
Care
Note;
For satisfactory 4-wheel drive operation, a
4-wheel drive vehicle
MUST
be equipped with the same size tires of equal circumference on all
four wheels. The tires must then be inflated to

proper
factory recommended pressures at all times.

Tire
pressure, tire rotation, wheel balance, and wheel alignment are the four vital factors that in­
fluence the
extent
of tire life and the
ease
and safety of vehicle control.
Four
of the most common

tire
troubles are:

a.
Excessive wear around the outer
edges
resulting

from
underinflation.

b.
Excessive wear in the center of the tread re­
sulting from overinflation.

c.
Tire
tread worn on one side indicating wheels
need realigning.
d.
Cuplike
depressions on one side of the tread

indicating
wheels need balancing.

If
the vehicle normally carries a
full
load, two to
four psi. [0,14 a 0,28 kg-m2] can be added to the
recommended air pressures. But, remember that adding air with a light load means a harsher ride,

doesn't
help tires, and wears out shock absorbers. Rotate the tires as shown in Fig. Q-9 for correct
rotation system.

Q-13.
Tire
Removal
and
Installation

To
remove a tire from a drop center rim, first
WEAR
AT SHOULDERS

WEAR
AT CENTER

WEAR
ON ONE
SIDE
FEATHERED
EDGE
BALD
SPOTS

/1TTDN

i

UNDER
INFLATION
OVER
INFLATION
EXCESSIVE
CAMBER

INCORRECT
TOE
WHEEL
UNBALANCED

liF
11

ADJUST
PRESSURE TO
SPECIFICATIONS
WHEN
TIRES ARE
COOL
ADJUST
CAMBER
TO

SPECIFICATIONS
ADJUST
FOR

TOE-IN
DYNAMIC
OR
STATIC

BALANCE
WHEELS

FIG.
Q-8—TIRE
WEAR
PATTERN
339